William W (Bill) Gabbard

What is the best caliber for deer hunting?

This question has been discussed over campfires, in hunting camps, and during Monday morning quarterbacking sessions for ages! I watched two co-workers nearly ruin a good friendship over the difference in a 243 Winchester and a 6MM Remington. A fellow that I used to work with had a 264 Winchester Magnum named “Big Joe” that in his mind was the only viable caliber for deer hunting.

When I started deer hunting in the 1970s, most of my friends either used a 30-06 or a 30-30. A few folks used a 243 Winchester (the smallest caliber that was legal for deer hunting in Kentucky at that time), a couple of fellows that I knew used a 270 Winchester, and one guy used a 280 Remington. The guy with the 280 handloaded because of the limited availability of ammo. Back then, no one that I knew used a “magnum” anything for deer hunting. Magnums were what those folks that went out west used!

Boy how times have changed! When I began this article, I asked many friends of mine who deer hunt what caliber they used and why they thought it was the best. The variety of calibers used has expanded greatly in the last 40 years. Just from my friends and family, the list now goes from 222 Remington to 300 Remington Ultra Magnum. I personally have killed deer with rifles ranging from 204 Ruger to 300 Win Mag. The reasons for this change are many and could possibly be an article all its own, but let’s look at what hunters are using now and why. Keep in mind that I am not attempting to cover every caliber available, so if I miss your favorite, let us know what it is and why it’s your favorite.

204 Ruger

While this round will kill deer, is exceptionally accurate, and has almost no recoil, I cannot recommend it for deer hunting. The bullets are just a little too light and not constructed heavily enough to hold together for clean consistent kills.

222 Remington

Henley McIntosh, a cousin of mine, loves this round and has killed several deer with it. But again, due to the light bullets in most factory ammo, I would only recommend it in the hands of a competent marksman.

223 Remington

Randy Bryant, Vice President of the local Sportsman’s Club and competitive shooter, is a big fan of the 223 using heavy bullets in an AR style rifle. He is hunting at fairly close ranges and is a great shot. Bullet selection is critical if using the 223 for deer hunting.

243 Winchester

More than one of the folks surveyed said that this is their number one choice for deer. Ashley Sandlin, local Deputy Sherriff, said that it kills good, doesn’t kick, and that her kids love to borrow it when they go hunting. Henley Mcintosh stated that this was probably the best all-around caliber because of lack of recoil, accuracy, and all the energy is used up in the deer. My brother, my granddaughter (Maddi Mastin) and lots of other folks mentioned 243 in their answer.

244/6mm Remington

Very similar to the 243 Winchester but limited availability of factory ammo is an issue.

257 Roberts

A wonderful caliber for deer but hardly anyone in my circle of friends even mentioned it. A good friend of mine who passed away a few years ago loved this caliber for its accuracy and lack of recoil. Limited supply of readily available factory ammo is a shortfall.

25-06 Remington

Another old classic that seems to be getting passed by these days has great accuracy, light recoil, and great long-range capabilities. Trish Bishop has tried different calibers but keeps coming back to her 25-06.

6.5 Grendel

Jon Allen of Nighthawk Tactical Solutions uses the Grendel on hogs and is planning to deer hunt with it this year. Jon says accuracy (which I must back him up on), almost no recoil, as well as dramatic kills have him excited about this caliber. My granddaughter Maddi is already eyeing my bolt-action Grendel. The growing supply of ammunition, and choices of types of bullets and the ability to use AR style rifles as well as bolt guns are all positives for the Grendel.

6.5 Creedmoor

The Creedmoor has taken the hunting world as well as the shooting world by storm. While none of my folks surveyed have taken a deer with this caliber, at least four said that they are planning to use it this year. Most are citing accuracy, long-range capabilities, and light recoil as their reason. Gun-Nut Dustin Cooper has killed deer with 243, 270, 30-06 and 300 Win Mag and said, “I just want to see what it does on a big ol buck.”

260 Remington

Mike Gross, custom gun builder and competitive shooter, uses a Model 7 Remington in 260. Light recoil, incredible accuracy and “drop in their tracks” kills are his reasons.

264 Winchester Magnum

I must mention the 264 out of respect to my friend Dexter Evans, as it is the only caliber he recognizes. As far as I know, the Remington Sendero SF II is the only production rifle currently available, and factory ammo is limited.

270 Winchester

This long-time favorite was mentioned by several folks. The 270 has been available as a factory round since 1925 and is showing no signs of letting up. Extremely accurate, incredible kills, long-range capabilities, manageable recoil, incredible variety, and ready availability of factory ammunition are on its long list of attributes. It is available in bolt action, pump, semi-auto and even lever action rifles.

7mm-08 Remington

The cross between a 243 and a 308 the 7mm-08, offers an incredible array of possibilities. This caliber has a tremendous following and for good reason. Paul Johnson mentioned the amount of versatility in tailoring loads, lack of recoil, incredible accuracy and great knock-down power. Carl Cooper laid down his 300 Win Mag for the 7mm-08 because of the lighter recoil and plans to never look back because of the killing power of the little round. Phyllis Cornett likes it because of the accuracy and lack of recoil. Mossy Oak’s Walt Gabbard said, “It is still hard to beat the 7mm-08.”

280 Remington

While the 280 has never seen the commercial success that the 270 Win has, most gun writers agree that it is ballistically superior to the 270. Factory ammo is available with bullets ranging from Norma’s 125 gr to Remington’s 165 gr. The availability of ammo from online and big box outdoor stores are just a few of the reasons that this great caliber is staying alive.

7mm Remington Magnum

This is the caliber that a many choose when they first get a case of “Magnum Fever.” The choices in factory ammo are staggering as are the options in building a suitable handload. The 7mm, as most folks call it, is accurate and hard hitting making it a favorite. When Walt Gabbard was 14, he got his first case of “Magnum Fever” when he killed an 8-point buck. Its only drawback is that with a poorly designed or ill-fitting rifle stock, the 7mm Rem Mag can be a little bit uncomfortable to shoot.

30-30 Winchester

The 30-30 was one of the most popular calibers around years ago and it is still hanging in there. However, based on my small sample of local hunters, not nearly as many folks use it now. Retired U.S. Army Colonel Brad Turner is still a fan though. Col. Turner stated that where he hunts 100 yards is a long shot and the 30-30 still drops them in their tracks!

308 Winchester

The 308 is one of the most popular calibers around, and there are plenty of reasons. Accuracy, long-range capabilities, good knock-down, manageable recoil, an incredible array of choice for factory loaded ammo as well as an almost endless list of components for the hand loader are just a few. The 308 is available in bolt, pump, lever, and single shot as well semi-auto rifles. Sheriff Kelly Shouse quickly replied 308 when asked what his favorite deer caliber was, an answer that was echoed by his son Hunter, as well as Benny Gabbard and his son Ben. Several others mentioned it as their second choice.

30-06

The old 30-06 has been around since 1906 and is still extremely popular. Several people mentioned it as their all time favorite or as their second choice. Availability of ammo, knockdown power, and just about any style of rifle being available are among the first attributes listed for the 06. Its only drawback can be recoil if it is in an ill-fitting stock.

300 Winchester Magnum

You might be surprised by the number of hunters that use the 300 as their primary deer rifle. An exceptional round for long range, it gives no quarter in performance on whitetail. When paired with the proper rifle and proper bullet weight the 300’s main drawbacks would be recoil and that a fairly long barrel is required to maximize its performance. Gary Deaton, Mike Gabbard and Hank Patton, all accomplished deer hunters, can usually be seen carrying well-worn 300 Win Mags that they are very comfortable with. Patton said, “I just love watching them smack the ground at the drop of the hammer, no tracking involved.” 300 Remington Ultra Magnum

Only one of my friends uses this caliber. Jamie Thomas said that hands down this is his favorite. “It flat kills – no tracking, no chasing. I pull the trigger and the game is over!” Limited selection of factory ammo and recoil are the only two downsides to this caliber.

This article is not a scientifically researched article quoting feet per second and foot pounds of energy retained at specific distances. It is a collection of observations calling on the knowledge of experienced and successful deer hunters. Each of the hunters that I have discussed here fits this description. Some of them have been deer hunting for more than 50 years, while some are new to the sport. So my conclusion to the best caliber of deer hunting is the caliber your centerfire rifle with properly constructed bullets will shoot comfortably. It is every hunter’s responsibility to be familiar with and know the capabilities and limitations of their rifle in order to become proficient with it.

Oh, and to the guy in the back there asking, “Hey Bill what do you use,” I always put a lot of thought into what I am going to hunt with, accuracy, energy, my comfort level with the rifle and for the past 12 years here in Kentucky, I reach in the vault and pull out the same rifle. An old Remington 700 chambered in 7mm Weatherby Magnum. Nobody else I know hunts with one, but it shoots 0.3 in groups with my handloads, just fits me, recoil is not an issue and results on the other end are incredible!

Question: My bow continues to paper-tune with a tail-left tear. I’ve tried moving my rest to the right, to the left, and I’ve adjusted the string-yoke harnesses as suggested by a friend. But I’m still getting a ragged tear and lousy broadhead flight. Can you help? — Alex D., via e-mail

Answer: Bows that don’t tune easy can be frustrating, and I’ve even had a few that wouldn’t tune at all! However, modern-day bows are manufactured with exceedingly close tolerances, so it’s a matter of making a few small adjustments to solve the problem. It could be as easy as resetting the cams, so they are synchronized and rotating plumb with the bowstring. Or you may have to move one or both cams to a different position along the axle by adding shims (small spacers) to one side of the cam and removing from the other.

Such steps are often referred to as “super-tuning,” but these actions simply place the bow’s powerstroke directly in line with the arrow. Shooting style varies, so although the bow may tune perfectly in a shooting machine, this may not be the case for a particular archer.

To perform these tuning steps, you need to have access to a quality press and some basic archery tools so you can work systematically until the flight issue is cured.

When tuning a bow, don’t skip the basics. With a persistent tear like yours, be sure to first check for fletching contact. Spray aerosol foot-powder across the arrow’s fletching area, then shoot it into a firm backstop. Any “smears” of the white powder indicate vane contact with the rest, cables, or riser — a common culprit of poor arrow flight. Also, don’t tune a bow without using several shafts to see if the tears remain the same. If spine varies from one arrow to the next (trust me, not every arrow is made the same), you’ll see various types of tears. Twisting the nock in one-quarter increments could also produce different tears.

Once the basics are covered, move on to synchronizing the cams. The cables should strike the cable stops at the exact same time. Next, assess each cam’s vertical position while at full draw. Cam lean is checked by using a bow-drawing device (or draw board) to allow an easy evaluation of how the cams are oriented. By laying an arrow across the surface of the cam, you can determine if the cam is in line with the bowstring. If the arrow points off-center to the left or right, then cam lean is present. If a draw board is not available, draw your bow and have a friend assess the cams’ positioning. To fix cam lean, adjust the string-yoke harness by twisting one side and untwisting the other, allowing the limb’s tip to equalize the load.

If the left tear persists, try moving your rest to the right, but oftentimes this only works for a very small left tear. Rest adjustments are better for “micro-tuning” groups downrange and adjusting the points of impact for fieldpoints and broadheads. Overall, it’s better to maintain the proper arrow centershot position as recommended by the bow’s manufacturer. This provides improved vane clearance and allows the arrow to stay in the center of the bow’s riser, limbs, and grip for optimum performance.

With large or persistent tears, shimming one or both cams will eventually eliminate the tear (I prefer to yoke-tune first). When repositioning the cam, always move it in the direction of the tear. Depending on your bow’s spacers, you may have to purchase new shims with varying thicknesses to make the necessary horizontal adjustments. Lancaster Archery and Last Chance Archery sell relatively inexpensive spacer kits and tools for this type of tuning.

There are several ways to tune a bow, but I believe paper-tuning is the most precise way to capture irregularities in arrow flight because it examines flight issues only a few feet from the bow. To improve paper-tuning even more, try using a bare shaft. To simulate the weight of vanes, wrap the rear of the shaft with a piece of electrical tape. The bare shaft will expose the smallest rips in paper so you can improve consistency downrange. Any small accuracy adjustments at this point are resolved by moving the rest or D-loop in 1⁄16″ or 3⁄32″ increments until maximum accuracy is achieved.

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

If you plan to hunt elk, you need to get the right weapon. In this area, the .300 Blackout is a reasonably well-known name. But will it be powerful enough to kill an elk?

The .300 Blackout is powerful enough to kill an elk, as long as you are working within the right parameters. First, it has a limited range. You’ll have to be within 100 yards. You’ll also need to be confident of hitting the vitals, as it will struggle to get through the thick elk bones.

Before you head out to hunt an elk, you need to know what your weapons are capable of doing. This ensures that you will be able to deliver a kill shot. Keep reading to learn everything you need to know about using a .300 Blackout during your hunt.

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Buy 300 Blackout Ammo from Palmetto State Armory

Performance of the .300 Blackout

Let’s start by looking at the performance of this cartridge. This will help determine how effective it will be when hunting for elk. It will also help you determine if it will be a good fit for your hunting style.

Accuracy

One of the most important elements to consider when you are planning for your hunt is how accurate the cartridge will be. The amount of drop you experience will often vary a little, depending on the grain that you are using. Typically, the heavier the grain, the more you can expect it to drop.

The good news is that this the .300 Blackout is designed to be very accurate. However, you should be aware that the bullet will start to drop fairly dramatically after the first 100 yards. How far it will drop will depend on a few factors, like the type of gun you are using and the amount of wind you are facing.

Here is roughly what you can expect when using a 110-grain bullet:

• Minimal drop within the first 100 yards
• Down 2.1 inches after 150 yards
• A drop of 6.6 inches after 200 yards
• After 250 yards you have lost 13.5 inches

Recoil

The next thing that you need to consider is the amount of recoil that you will experience. The good news is that this is one of the lowest-recoil bullets you can use, especially in the hunting realm. It will be a little more than the .308 Winchester. It’s on par with the .223.

This is a good choice for beginner hunters, as it isn’t going to throw you off-balance too much. It’s also ideal for people who have shoulder problems or hunters who are a little older.

Cost

Due to the popularity of the .300 Blackout, the costs associated with the ammunition will be fairly low. This will vary a little, depending on the type of grain you are purchasing. Generally, though, you can expect it to be between $45 to $60. This is a fairly good price.

Availability

It’s important to think about the type of gun you will be using when hunting. You need to make sure that the cartridge will be compatible with this weapon. The good news is that there is a wide range of rifles that you can shoot a .300 Blackout from. The AR-15 is the most common weapon used with the .300 Blackout. Primarily, it is used for military purposes. Because of this, the popularity you shouldn’t have any trouble finding ammunition.

Type of Grain

When you are thinking about the equipment you are taking hunting, it’s important to make sure that you are getting the right grain. This will ensure that you have enough power to kill an elk. This is where the popularity of the .300 Blackout comes into play.

They are available in a range of grains. They typically start at around 110 grains, but they can go all the way up to 220 grains. It might be best to stick with a heavier grain. These will allow you to penetrate more deeply. It can also help when you are dealing with thick elk bones.

It should be noted that, because they are used with the military, there is a wide range of available bullets. For example, some rounds are built to be subsonic. Others might be designed to work with silencers.

When you are hunting for elk, it’s best to use hollow point ammunition. They will be able to expand when it hits a target. This will do more damage, opening up a large blood trail.

Penetration

With any species, you need to make sure that you are doing enough damage to deliver a kill shot. This is more important than ever when you are dealing with a larger animal, like an elk. In this area, there are lots of variables that can affect the penetration, including:

• Where you hit the animal
• The amount of wind resistance
• Distance from the elk
• Grain of the bullet, which affects its weight

However, we can estimate how much force the bullet will impact will have by analyzing the ballistics. Often, the 110-grain will leave the bullet with a muzzle at 2,375 feet per second. If you hit the elk within the first 100 yards, you will be able to deliver 1,071 pounds of force.

Legality

Finally, you should always check your hunting rules before you begin. If you have the wrong set-up, you could be facing a major fine. The good news is that the.300 Blackout is legal in all states. You just need to make sure that you are using supersonic rounds. Though in some jurisdictions, subsonic varieties will be allowed.

What’s the Range of the .300 Blackout?

The .300 Blackout is a close-range weapon. It’s best to use this within a 100-yard range. Outside of this distance, the power starts to drop, so you might not have enough force to kill the elk.

The .300 Blackout is a popular choice when hunting for Whitetail deer. You can kill these animals from 200 yards away. Plus, they allow hunters to use AR-15, a weapon that most people will be familiar with and fairly comfortable shooting.

When you are working with any weapon, it’s important to think about the range. This is especially important when you are working with a large animal, like an elk. Too little power and you could be setting yourself up for a long blood chase as you work to track down and kill the injured animal.

The .300 Blackout has a limited amount of power, especially when compared to some of the larger hunting cartridges on the market. To ensure that you can penetrate deeply enough to kill the elk, you will need to move reasonably close before taking your shot. It’s usually best to be within 100-yards, though closer is usually best. If you can, try to get even closer. 40 or 50 yards will deliver the best results.

It should be noted that there are a few things that will affect the range of the weapon. These elements include:

• Weather conditions. On a blowy day, you will face more wind resistance on the bullet. This can slow it down, reducing the penetrating force.
• Accuracy. This is one of the most important elements to consider. If you can reliably land a shot to the vitals, you might be able to move a little further back. But you don’t want to go too far back, as you don’t want to risk not having enough penetrating force to kill the animal.
• Species. If you are shooting a deer or hog, you can be further away. 200 yards for these species is a good option. But an elk is one of the largest hunting animals. Because of this, you will need to be closer.
• Temperature and humidity. These might also affect the flight path of the bullet. Though this only starts to come into play when you are shooting from long distances.

Should You Shoot an Elk With a .300 Blackout?

The .300 Blackout is only effective at close ranges. It will also require you to have a clean shot and the accuracy required to hit your target. If these conditions don’t suit your hunting style or abilities, it’s best to try a different cartridge.

Now that we know a little more about this type of cartridge and how it performs, we have established that it can be to hunt elk effectively. But this doesn’t answer one of the most important questions. Is it a good choice for these larger species?

This is a contextual question, which will require you to answer a few important questions. These are:

• How far away are you? This is one of the most important things for you to consider. As we mentioned, this will only be effective within 100-yards, it isn’t a good choice for hunters that prefer to shoot from a longer distance. But if you are presented a good opportunity, like an unexpected shot at a buck as you are stepping out of the car, it will be a good choice. You can shoot with an AR-15 within a few seconds, often with accuracy.
• Can you hit the mark accurately? The next thing you need to consider is how confident you feel using the cartridge. The good news is that the .300 Blackout tends to be fairly user-friendly. It doesn’t have a lot of recoil and will fly fairly straight. But you should still have a few practice shots before the hunt to make sure you can hit the target.
• What type of bullet are you using? This will determine the amount of damage you will be able to do. If you are using a heavier grain and have a hollow point, you should be able to kill the elk. Even if you don’t the wound will be deep enough to create a strong blood trail.
• Are there any other options available? Finally, think about what other weapons you have at your disposal. If you have the choice, it might be better to pick a more long-range cartridge, like the Nosler Accubond. This has plenty of power, so you shouldn’t have any issues taking down the elk, even if you are around 200 yards away.

Once you know the answers to these questions, you will be able to determine whether you want to take the shot. There are a few circumstances where you can comfortably use the .300 Blackout. The elk will need within 100 yards. You’ll also need to have a pretty good shot, so you can be sure of putting it into the vitals and delivering the kill shot. You should be able to put the elk away.

Outside of this circumstance, it’s probably not a good idea to use the .300 Blackout. It will be a great option for smaller animals like deer or hogs. But when it comes to the bigger prey, like elk, it might struggle to get the job done.

What Else Can You Shoot With a .300 Blackout?

While elk might not be the best fit for the .300 Blackout, that doesn’t mean that you won’t be able to use it when hunting. It just means that you might need to adjust your target species a little. Here are some of the animals you can focus on:

• Deer. This is the most common hunting application for this ammunition. In particular, you should focus on the whitetail. As we mentioned, it will be legal in all the States, so it has become a popular choice with deer hunters.
• Hogs. These are other ideal target species. Like when hunting deer, you will be able to use this cartridge from a distance. You should be able to kill a hog from 200 yards away.
• Bears. When on a camping trip, it can be a good idea to take an AR-15 with you, especially if you are going into bear country. If one of these animals breaks into your camp, it will allow you to defend yourself. If you need to, a close-range shot to the head should be enough to kill the bear. Often, though, the noise of the gun will be enough to deter them.
• Smaller varmint. The .300 Blackout will offer more than enough power to stop smaller animals, plus it’s low-cost and accessibility makes getting replacement bullets easy.

Alternatives to Using a .300 Blackout

No cartridge will suit all hunters; you might need to experiment a little to find the one that suits you the most. The good news is that there are plenty of other options available for you to explore. These include:

• Hornady. This is one of the most popular deer hunting cartridges on the market. It’s known for its accuracy and deep penetration. It should offer enough power to take on larger game, like elk.
• .223. The .300 and .223 offer a similar shooting experience. The .223 will also be suitable for use with AR-15s.
• .308 Winchester. This is another cartridge that is often compared to the .300 Blackout. However, this option is often best for shooting over longer distances.

It’s often a good idea to experiment with the type of ammunition you are using during the off-season. Go to your local range and try out different types of cartridges. This will make it easier to find one that you like to work with.

Tips For Hunting With a .300 Blackout

As we mentioned, the .300 Blackout can be a good choice for elk hunting. But you will need to be careful about the situations you are using it in. Here are some of the tips you can use to make sure that you get a kill shot on your next hunting trip:

• Get close. Because of the limited range, you will need to get used to stalking the bulls. This takes a lot of skill.
• Be patient. This cartridge might struggle to bust through the thick bones of the elk. Because of this, you will need to wait until they are in the right position before you take the shot. This gives you the best chance of hitting the vitals.
• Be prepared to take a second shot. If you aren’t quite hitting the spot on your first attempt, you might need to make a follow-up shot. This is where the rapid-fire nature of the AR-15 shines. If you can get a second shot in quick enough you might be able to save yourself from having to follow a long blood trail.
• Always be ready. You never know when you might get an opportunity to take a shot at the elk, especially if you are stalking them. Because of this, you need to get confident in your hunting ability. If you are offered a clean shot, within the target range, take it. You never know when you are going to get the next one.

As long as you apply these tips, you stand a good chance of being able to land an elk with a .300 Blackout.

Final Thoughts

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Buy 300 Blackout Ammo from Palmetto State Armory

In the right hands, any weapon is capable of taking down an elk. The key is finding the one that best suits your hunting abilities. The .300 Blackout won’t be suited to those who like to shoot from long distances. But, if you like to get close to the action, stalking until you are within 100 yards, this cartridge is right for you.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• https://www.80percentarms.com/blog/300-blackout-deer-hunting/
• https://www.huntinggearguy.com/tips/300-blackout-vs-223/
• https://americanarmamentco.com/300-blackout/

I started my big bore airgunning journey back in 2002 with a .308 semi-custom rifle built for me by the father of the modern big bore airgun, Dennis Quackenbush. Then, later that year, he built another rifle in .50 caliber for me to hunt hogs and exotics down in Texas. Over the years, Dennis produced another dozen rifles for me in a range of calibers—including the .457 caliber used on most of my airgun hunts in South Africa. At that time, if you wanted the most powerful airgun for hunting, Quakenbush was the only show in town. And even though this was a niche market, and arguably it still is, there was enough business to keep his order book filled with a long list of potential buyers just waiting to give him their money. The Quackenbush rifles were uncomplicated, solidly built, and extremely shootable hunting air rifles that were truly made for the field.

As the demand for guns grew, along with the waiting time for a Quackenbush rifle, other small-scale manufacturers came to market with rifles of varying quality. This situation persisted for a few years as the market continued to grow.

Then, a couple of important events occurred over a few short years. The American airgun manufacturing giant Crosman and later the smaller, more experienced PCP air rifle manufacturer AirForce Airguns, released true big-bore air rifles. Concurrent with this, other manufacturing companies started to gain traction, some small-scale startups such as Professional Big Bore Airguns (PBBA), and other large-scale manufacturers such as Hatsan Airguns, offered a large and evolving lineup of powerful big bore rifles.

The benchmark for the most powerful air rifles is power output, which makes sense, even though I firmly believe that accuracy trumps this and field handling is close on its heels. But all things considered, once you have achieved a level of accuracy and come up with a design that works for shooters, more power is usually better. So, with this in mind, I will present a few of the most powerful airguns available today. It’s not possible to cover all the calibers and configurations, but I’ll pluck out a few of my favorite hunting rifles.

• The Most Powerful Air Rifle: AEA Zeus
• Best Budget: Umarex Hammer .50 caliber
• Best for Accuracy and Power: FX Impact .30 caliber
• Hatsan PileDriver
• AirForce Texan
• Airguns of Arizona Bushbuck

Evaluating Air Rifle Power for Hunting

Every manufacturer wants to be known as having the most powerful air rifle in the world, and until recently, this was a fluid state between a couple of the companies. The “correct” answer of who made the most powerful rifle was a bit difficult to assess because shooters were modifying their guns to up the power. So, to provide context, I always look at peak power in an out-of-the-box configuration.

It is worth noting that in the world of airguns, ammunition (slugs, bullets) and calibers are decoupled from the power produced by the gun. As an example, two .457 rifles with 26-inch barrels of different designs using the same projectile, can deliver vastly different power outputs. I have two .50 caliber rifles from different manufacturers, one generates 220 ft-lbs and the other 700 ft-lbs using the same slug. The power output is a function of barrel length and the valve design and setup, the fill pressure, and the airflow through the transfer port. Of course, it is possible to get more power by going to a larger caliber, optimizing the valve, and driving it at higher pressures. Still, caliber alone is not the primary factor.

With that said, let’s look at my list of the most powerful air rifles available today, which all have power in common, but they represent a mixed bag of features and styles.

Want to learn the basics of PCP airguns? Check out PCP Air Rifles 101 to learn more.

Most Powerful Air Rifles: Reviews and Recommendations

The Most Powerful Air Rifle: AEA Zeus

Key Features

• Available in .58 and .72 caliber
• Barrel Lengths: 16, 24, and 32 inches
• Up to 1500 ft-lbs for .72 cal.
• Weight: 12 pounds
• Sidelever action
• Hardwood sporter style stock
• Threaded for DONNYFL moderator

Pros

• Very powerful
• Wide range of configurations (calibers and barrel lengths)
• Compact in shorter barrel lengths
• Purpose-designed moderator available

Cons

• Heavy (very heavy in long barrel versions)
• Loud (Unless suppressed)

For years the airgun companies have all claimed to manufacture the most powerful air rifle, and in fairness, this has been open to debate as they were close in performance. However, the AEA Zeus in .72 put that argument to rest, as it is clearly the most powerful. Do you need all that power? In most cases, probably not, but the intrinsic energy produced by this power plant allowed AEA to design short rifle and carbine versions of the .72 and add the .58 while maintaining a high-power output.

The AEA Zeus is a traditionally styled big-bore air rifle with a hardwood sporter-style stock. The wood and metal work on these rifles is solid to the point of being over engineered, not a bad thing in a gun generating power output up to 1500 ft-lbs. The added weight helps to dampen the recoil generated by a 500-grain slug traveling down the barrel at 1025 fps. I’ve used this gun to take a couple of massive Texan boar, and the terminal performance is outstanding. In my experience, the Zeus is a solid big game gun for the largest quarry.

Read our full AEA Zeus review to learn more.

Best Budget: Umarex Hammer

Key Features

• .50 caliber
• Weight: 8.5 pounds
• Delivers approximately 700 ft-lbs of energy
• Up to 5 shots per fill
• Incorporates a 2-shot shuttle magazine
• Utilizes Umarex Lightspeed valve

Pros

• Accurate
• Shot-to-shot consistency for three full power shots
• Lightweight and ergonomic

Cons

• The barrel is longer than I prefer (Carbine version to be released soon)
• Loud

I’ve hunted deer, hogs, and javelina with this rifle, and the overall performance has been impressive. This gun is fairly lightweight for a big-bore air rifle and carries well for long slogs through rough terrain. The accuracy is spot on in the 50 to 80-yard range I typically prefer, but it can reach out farther when called on to do so. The Hammer lives up to its name regarding terminal performance, and I’ve seen the proprietary Umarex 510 grain slug cleanly anchor some big hogs.

The Umarex Hammer is a .50 caliber rifle designed to accelerate a greater mass faster using proprietary technology from the company’s Lightspeed valve. The design of this air management system, coupled with a .510 caliber, 550-grain lead slug, is capable of generating over 700 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. The cocking action of the Hammer is very light and requires about 2 pounds of effort to operate. This short, effortless action actuates a two-shot shuttle magazine for fast follow-up shots when required.

Best for Accuracy and Power: FX Impact M3

Key Features

• Max Velocity: 850 fps
• Weight 6.85 pounds
• Muzzle Energy (65.5 grain): 128 ft-lbs
• Shot Capacity: 21
• Max Shots Per Fill: 85
• Sideliver

Pros

• Very accurate (Used to win RMAC many times)
• Customizable
• High shot count
• Excellent for coyote and small game hunting

Cons

• Not meant for big game hunting

My top pick for a crossover rifle that performs well for both small-game and predator hunting is the FX Impact air rifle. This bullpup design has a lot going for it, and the frame is rugged and lightweight, with an adjustable stock that accepts standard AR pistol grips. The air storage is a 480cc removable carbon fiber (other options available) tank that can be charged to 3600 psi, and the design allows extra bottles to be packed and changed in the field.

The sidelever action is one of the quickest, most tactile, and smoothest cycling that I have used, and reliably indexes the magazines every time. What really seals the deal for me though, is that the modular design lets the shooter swap out barrels, magazines, and probes to optimize the gun for different types of hunting. The hunter can use the .22 barrel for a rabbit hunt, then swap to a .25 barrel that has a liner optimized for slugs to do a long-range prairie dog shoot, then swap again for the .30 caliber barrel to hunt predators.

Hatsan PileDriver

Key Features

• Available in .457, .50, and .62 caliber
• Adjustable synthetic thumbhole stock
• Sidelever cocking action
• Easy access loading port accepts longer projectiles
• Several Picatinny rails for mounting accessories

Pros

• Accurate and powerful
• Rugged construction, reliable
• Generates six full power shots per fill

Cons

• Big and heavy
• Single shot (though loads rapidly)

I’ve been shooting the Hatsan Piledriver in the .457 and .50 caliber versions for a few years now, and have used it to take several deer, hogs, javelina, and exotics. This year Hatsan added the .62 caliber version to the lineup, generating over 750 ft-lbs with a 650-grain hollow point slug. This gun is a great performer with respect to accuracy, power, and reliability.

The PileDriver .62 is a bullpup configuration, but it is still a big gun. However, the .62 caliber clipped 4 inches off the 33-inch standard barrel bringing the overall length to 42 inches, and reducing the weight to a tad over 9.5 pounds. The synthetic thumbhole stock has an adjustable length of pull and cheekpiece. It uses a 480 cc carbon fiber tank to deliver up to five shots. The single-action gun cycles with a smooth side lever action, and loads quickly through easy access to the loading port. It also has Hatsan’s two-stage Quatro trigger, which is crisp, with a medium pull out of the box, and can be adjusted.

Read Next: The Best PCP Air Rifle Compressors of 2023

Honorable Mentions

AirForce Texan

The AirForce Texan big bore air rifles have become the most popular of the big bores over the last few years, and there are several reasons for this. The bottle for a buttstock design and inline valving are well proven in the field. The guns are adjustable and lend themselves to customization and personalization. They are also very well made and available in several calibers, including .257, .308, .357, .457, and .50. The performance of the Texan, with respect to both accuracy and power, is rock solid. I’ve used mine to take several species of North American big game. The most powerful version of this gun out of the box is the Texan LSS .50-CF, which is a .50 caliber gun generating over 800 ft-lb. The rifle features a 490 cc and 250 BAR tank that delivers three to four shots per fill. That’s moving a 620-grain slug at 620 fps for about 805 ft-lb. I find that the Texan’s excellent trigger helps wring the most accuracy out of the Lothar Walther barrel and the rifle as a whole.

Airguns of Arizona Bushbuck

Airguns of Arizona is a major U.S. retailer that is especially well known as an importer of high-end European guns. But a few years ago, they began manufacturing a big bore rifle called the Bushbuck. To my eye, this is the best looking big bore rifle on the market. It is a bolt action sporter style rifle in .452 that is dressed in a laminate stock with stippling on the forestock and grip, with an adjustable cheekpiece. This rifle is solidly built and weighs in at 10.2 pounds with an overall length of 49.5 inches and a 30-inch barrel. My Bushbuck is the compact version. It is 43.5 inches long with a 22.5-inch barrel. After a point, I am usually willing to trade off some power for a more compact gun. The 285 cc air reservoir fills to 4500 psi using an unobtrusive under-barrel tube that helps maintain the rifle’s sleek lines, while providing two to four shots per fill. The single-shot Bushbuck has two power settings and generates over 600 ft-lb in the high setting. I’ve carried and used this gun on both North American and South African hunts, and it is a capable rifle for any non-dangerous game.

FAQs

Final Thoughts on the Most Powerful Air Rifles

The most powerful air rifles are quite different, but there are similarities connecting them all. I would be happy using any one of them when out after deer or hogs, though my preference would change based on the specific situations and conditions. All of these rifles are accurate, generate more than sufficient power, and have an acceptable shot count for big game hunting. But air usage, number of shots, sound level, anticipated range, and size and weight of the gun are variables each hunter needs to assess based on their own needs and preferences.

Other factors to consider are, how will you keep the gun filled? Will you get a compressor or refill tanks at a local paintball or dive shop? Can, or will, the local shop in your area charge the tank up to over 4500 psi? It’s a lot easier to keep a gun charged at 3600 psi than 4500. Can you reduce the power if hunting in an area where limited range is advantageous, or so as to reduce air usage? Is noise an issue, and do you need to have the lowest possible sound signature? Will most hunting be from a blind or a stand, or will you spend hours covering large tracts of land on foot?

Each shooter needs to weigh the importance of these variables to find what suits them best. I can honestly say that — my own personal preferences and biases aside — any of these rifles could be a perfect big game rifle depending on what you like and what’s important for you and your intended uses.

Both the .45-70 and the .30-06 are popular choices in the hunting community, especially among the large game hunters. But they also have a bunch of differences that set their performances apart.

These hard-hitting rounds work exceptionally well in close ranges, but as the range increases, the otherwise superior .45-70 loses accuracy and trajectory.

Today we’re making a head-to-head comparison between .45-70 vs .30-06 cartridges to help you find the best cartridge for you.

30-06 vs 45-70 Rounds: Head-to-Head Comparison

A Quick Look at the .45-70

The .45-70, AKA the “.45-70 gov/govt,” came out in the years following the American Civil War (1861-1865). These mighty cartridges were introduced by the U.S. Army’s Springfield Armory in 1873.

They became widely known as the “forty-five seventy” among the U.S. troops and hunters. Aside from being one of the primary ammo for the military, these hard-hitting bullets are capable of taking down any large game animal that roams around North America.

A Quick Look at the .30-06

The compact .30-06 rounds also have a history with the military. Also known as the .30-03 Springfield, these rounds were patterned after the famous 7x57mm Mauser cartridge that was used during the Spanish-American War.

The .30-06s are 30-caliber, rimless, and centerfire rifle cartridges that fire 0.308” diameter bullets. They were used in the semi-auto M1 Garand and a scoped variant of the 1903 Springfield for long-range shooting.

Known as the American Military Powerhouse, the .30-06 rounds became vastly popular among civilians and are still today, after 100+ years after its invention in 1906. They served in both world wars.

Key Differences Between the 45-70 and 30-06 Cartridges

Cartridge Size

.45-70

When it comes to cartridge size, the 45 70, compared to the 30 06 bullets, are a bit wider and feature a shorter case length.

The case length is one of the only two aspects where the numbers speak for the .30-06. The .45-70 also features a straight-walled design.

.30-06

In spite of being inferior to the .45-70 in almost all aspects, the 30-06 surprisingly packs a much heavier punch than the .45-70 in terms of SAAMI spec maximum pressure.

The shorter and narrower rounds literally dwarf the .45-70 with more than twice the pressure.

Property45-7030-06Parent CasingN/A.30-03Base Diameter0.505”0.471”Neck Diameter0.480”0.340”Bullet Diameter0.458”0.308”Case Capacity81.8 gr68 grCase Length2.105”2.494”Overall Length2.550”3.34”Max Pressure (SAAMI)28,000 psi60,200 psi

Ballistic coefficient

.45-70

To put it bluntly, the ballistic coefficient shows how aerodynamic a bullet is. The higher the number is, the better your bullet will perform against the wind.

The .45-70 is at a slight disadvantage here. The bullet is heavier. Despite performing really well in the close and mid-range, the performance of .45-70 bullets goes down a bit in the long-range.

.30-06

The heavier bullets usually come with a higher BC count, but not in this case! The aerodynamic design helps the .30-06 dominate in BC count, even at long ranges.

Recoil

.45-70

The amount of recoil felt depends on the shooter, the ammunition, and the weapon used. Heavier rifles tend to soak up some of the recoil energy so that it puts smaller stress on your shoulder.

Being heavier and armed with more firepower, the .45-70 will impart significantly heavier recoil energy (around 33 ft lbs) into your shoulder.

.30-06

Both the .30-06 and the .45-70 come with a high recoil profile. However, the recoil energy from the .30-06 is notably less (around 23 ft-lbs) than the .45-70.

In fact, they were specifically designed to have less recoil energy than the popular hunting cartridges of that time, like the 45-70.

Trajectory

.45-70

Usually, the heavier a bullet is, the higher muzzle velocity it produces. As a result, the bullet gradually loses momentum, and gravity takes more time to pull the bullet downwards.

The 45-70 cartridges are heavier than the .30-06, producing a more steep trajectory. That is why the performance also drops significantly downrange. You’ll not get good results if you are shooting from 300+ yards.

.30-06

The lighter .30-06 absolutely dominates this category with a much flatter trajectory than the .45-70. That’s why they are one of the most widely used cartridges in mid-to-long-range hunting across the globe.

Accuracy

.45-70

Accuracy is subjective, meaning it greatly depends on the person shooting and the firearm used. These hard-hitting rounds can deliver bone-crushing power at close range but lose accuracy significantly at longer ranges.

.30-06

With a flatter trajectory, the .30-06 dominates long-range hunting. These compact rounds can maintain their supersonic speed for a little over 1000 yards before the gravity and sit resistance starts to affect the accuracy.

If you are hunting within a range of 200-300 yards, you’ll notice no significant differences in the accuracy between the .45-70 and the .30-06.

However, the contrast will become harder to ignore as the range increases.

Use

.45-70

The .45-70 was a superhero at its time. It was one of the most powerful cartridges in the late 1800s and was used by the army in the American Indian Wars.

Aside from that, these powerful cartridges are also super efficient in harvesting large games and responsible for nearly wiping out the American Buffalo. They can easily take down big games like moose, grizzly, and elk as long as the range is within 200 yards.

.30-06

The 30-06 combats the mighty .45-70 with its longer effective shooting range. They can deliver more than 1,000 ft-lbs of force even past 500 yards.

As a result, the .30-06 can effectively make a clean kill from a long distance.

Availability

.45-70

As I’ve already mentioned, the .45-70 bullets require more material and are larger in dimensions. That is one of the reasons that the .45-70 cartridges are a bit expensive.

You’ll need to spend around $2.75/round for practice ammo and $5/round or more for premium hunting loads.

Additionally, these rounds were designed to use with lever-action rifles. As a result, you’ll have fewer options when it comes to rifles. The Marlin 1895 is one of the best guide guns for the .45-70.

.30-06

The 30-06 cartridges offer more variation to choose from in comparison with the .45-70. The .30-06 were military cartridges; thus, they are more widely available at a lower price.

They also offer a wider variety of bullet weight options (100gr-220gr) for small to large games. Standard .30-06 will cost about $1.50/round, whereas the premium loads will cost you double that amount.

Reloading

.45-70

The amount of available reload options in 45 70 compared to 30 06 is slightly lower. However, there are still plenty of loading options for hand loaders to choose from. As a result, the mighty .45-70 loses advantages despite offering a wide variety of customization.

.30-06

The compact .30-06 rounds take the lead with a far wider variety of options when it comes to custom reloading your bullets. Not only do they offer a common 0.308” diameter, but they also can utilize many different powders.

They require a large rifle primer and 30-caliber bullets. As a result, you’ll be able to craft hand loads for 4+ different calibers while purchasing only one caliber of bullet and primer size.

.30-06 vs .45-70: Which one to choose?

.45-70 vs .30-06: Which one should you pick? The answer will vary from person to person.

The .45-70 compared to .30-06 is still relatively popular among those who hunt big game animals in heavy cover and black-powder silhouette shooters. The 45-70 cartridges have served for over a century.

In justification of being more expensive, the hard-hitting big game .45-70 rounds offer bone-crushing muzzle energy that can be lethal for any game within 300 yards. If you’re a fan of big game hunting and have no issues with the price or the recoil, go for the .45-70.

On the flip side, if you’re more into long-range hunting, we recommend that you grab the compact .30-06. The stopping power and the long-range capabilities of these versatile rounds will make your game hunting more dynamic in a number of different hunting scenarios.

Even many modern rounds don’t come close to the popularity and raw stopping power that the.30-06 provides. They literally can harvest every four-legged animal across the North American continent.

The .30-06 bullets are also more cost-efficient. If you value those qualities, the compact 30-06 rounds won’t disappoint you at all. In conclusion, when talking about .45-70 vs .30-06, remember that the .45-70 works best at close-to mid-range whereas the .30-08 is perfect for long-range shooting.

FAQs

1. .45-70 vs .30-06 – what’s more powerful?

Ans. “More powerful” is something hard to define when talking about ammo. In general, .30-06 is more effective for large distances since it’s faster and has more energy than .45-70.

However, at short ranges, the .45-70 is more powerful against large animals but past that, the .30-06 wins against conventional game.

2. How far can I shoot a deer with a .45-70?

Ans. With a .45-70, you can hunt any game animal under 100 yards but for deer and elk, you can go 200 yards if you’re a skilled hunter.

3. 45-70 or 30-06 for bear hunting?

Ans. Both are fine and what matters most is the range here. The .45-70’s heavier mass is helpful when you’ll face off an angry bear at close range. On the other hand, the .30-06 will have more advantage with more energy as the range increases.

4. What was the 45-70 designed for?

Ans. The 45-70 was originally designed as a military round for the U.S Army in 1873, during their campaign against Native Americans in the Western United States. Since its launch, it has proven to be an effective tool that can take down virtually any game animal.

5. How far can a 30-06 shoot?

Ans. The maximum effective range of a 30-06 is about 800 yards for a skilled shooter, although it can reach up to 1000 yards with the right barrel and ammunition. Beyond that, it will still have some stopping power when shot at its maximum range, but accuracy will be severely affected.

Traps to capture birds can come in as many forms and designs as types of techniques, but they all have the same origin source in that they were constructed to capture food. Trapping fowl of any type was as a whole, not regulated or tracked in any way.

When populations were depleted or the species started showing strains from being trapped, such as when songbirds where in fashion at court for their voices or native species were hunted only for their plumage, regulations and laws were put into place to protect the birds.

Bird Haven

In the middle 1700’s, in the region of Ontario Canada, the native people were hit hard with diseases like TB (Tuberculosis) and Small Pox. The remaining people fled to more populated areas, leaving the land unpopulated and unhunted for about 75 years.

It just happens the opposite was occurring in the bird community, and a certain species had a big boom in growth. In this region of Canada, it was berry rich and predator sparse with a lack of competition for food, so a sweet haven that was perfect for birds to flourish.

Rise of the passenger pigeon

This bird was the passenger pigeon and some of its relatives like doves, and the population rivaled those of the buffalo on the plains of the west. Just one flock could swell to numbers of 2 billion birds. Due to this high number of birds, native peoples begin to move back to the prey rich lands.

This abundance in food with forests untouched by people served the native population quite well and several tribes of the Anishnaube moved into the area, with the strongest being the Ojibway.

In the Columbidae bird family there are about 42 breeds and 310 varieties. The stout bodied bird that has a short neck and slim bill many people think that dove and pigeon can be used for both. But dove is from the French for “peeping” and pigeon from the Germanic name for diving.

The larger types of this family are called pigeons, and the smaller ones are doves. But in common terms, the rock dove is what most people refer to as a pigeon and its subspecies are domesticated and the feral ones in the cities.

The passenger pigeon, at one time was thought to be one of the most numerous species on earth. One colony recorded in 1871 by ornithologist A. Wilson was reported to have over 100 million breeding birds.

Evolution of bird trapping

The type of bird and its habits help explain how the bird trap evolved to be most efficient at providing catch as a food source. In the thick Canadian forests not all traps are successful. Traps like the deadfall, spear based traps, or the scissors derivatives do not seems to be that effective for the environment.

The pole was meant for birds to serve as a perch. With birds such as grouse or grosbeaks they are more ground birds that fly straight up into the protective trees if startled to hide. As the passenger pigeons are perching birds, the Ojibwa bird pole snare was developed.

The Ojibwa Bird Pole Snare

Although a primitive trap, it has a design that is quite sophisticated in its elegance.

The basic set up consists of 4 main elements:

The Pole

The main piece is a tall pointed pole, about 4 feet in height that you drill a hole in. The hole is bored so there are no snagging pieces inside. You can use flint like the native people, or a hacksaw.

A cord or rope must go through smoothly and without any resistance. The method a lot of bush craft people use is contributed to Kochanski and it is cutting a hole with a long Bowie or hunting knife.

This method makes more of a conical bore on each side so the cord has a range of motion, you can drill the hole of course. Either method would be functional as long as the walls of the hole are smooth inside. You can use your knife to carve a point at the pole’s top. This will discourage birds from landing atop it, and aim them more towards the trigger stick for a seemingly better perching place.

The Triggering Stick

The next piece is a stick that is long enough and thick enough to let a bird perch on it, preferably non-resinous wood (so no pine or cedar). Think of the dowel rods used in bird cages to gauge the width. This triggering stick will fit into the hole as a plug, keeping the snare open by preventing it from sliding shut until it is activated by a bird’s weight on it.

When the bird lands and pressure is presented on the triggering stick, it will cause it to be released. This will allow it to close the snare and shut it.

The Snare

Through the ages many materials have been used from leather strips, natural twines, to wire. I don’t like wire as its too rigid for this type of snare trap and can get misshaped quite easily. After a few uses, it may not slide closed properly, allowing for your catch to escape, or can bend a few times then just snap right in two.

So the consensus is using cord is the best all around. I like the inner strands from paracord as they have a great tensile strength, will not rot or mildew like other natural cords, and slide pretty well allowing for the snare to shut. If you have no paracord, then most cords will do for a while.

The Weight

For this type of snare to work, the activation of the trigger will need to be countered with a weighting mechanism. There are 2 types of mechanisms that will work. A bent sapling to snap the snare closed when activated, or a rock for weight to pull the snare closed with gravity.

The rock method is the one employed by the Ojibwa as it can’t break or be affected by weather like a sapling. So during the long and harsh winter months, the rock won’t fail making it the best choice.

This is the finished Ojibwa bird pole snare:

Here is a closer view of the trigger, and the way it fits into the pole with the snare set.

This is the properly sharpened tip of the pole, to insure the pigeon or any bird to choose the trigger branch as a landing spot for a safer grip.

One variation on the Ojibwa bird pole snare is to add a toggle clip to keep the bird off raised quite a way off the ground and some say its smoother and safer for the prey, but it is not needed. The Ojibwa people used the Ojibwa bird pole snare for many centuries and it is still a reliable trap to this day, so either way is fine.

Using a toggle does insure the birds legs don’t break when the snare is closed, so it is a more humane method. It also may mean the bird, depending on its type, may escape if a particularly strong breed.

Setting the Trap

It is a fairly simple set up. It would be better to practice a few times to make sure your snare line feeds smoothly and the trigger fits snug enough to not fall too soon, but loose enough to be triggered when needed.

A note: To stop the rock for pulling the snare by gravity alone, I have seen people put a knot in the snare close to the rock. This is not advised as it may prevent the snare cord from sliding correctly and let your bird loose.

If the trigger stick is snug enough, you will not need any knots or special ties to keep it from shutting before being triggered by the bird’s weight.

This is what the trap looks like when it is set properly:

As the bird lands here (marked with red), the weight will offset the balance of the stick that has been placed in the pole’s burrowed hole, dislodging it, and letting the rock pull the snare shut as seen below.

One way to entice birds to land and perch is to scatter grains and berries around the stand, or place a leaf with seed in the snare hole. As they come in for landing they will perch first to survey the land for competition, or predator hiding spots.

Have your trap close enough to trees that the birds will fly down onto your perch, but not too close to the local foliage that they just go straight to the seed or bait that you have placed to lure them in.

As stated before pigeons and other migratory birds that perch will be a good prey for this type of snare. This trap was made to harvest the larger passenger pigeon, so it can catch a good sized bird. Rock doves and grouse can also be caught with this type and a few more birds quite effectively.

Final Thoughts

As laws and seasons can differ in many states, you will want to check with your local Wildlife and hunting Bureau for the legality side. For a post collapse situation, using a trap such as the Ojibwa snare can mean life or death in the rough terrain of places like Canada and Alaska.

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Yellow perch are a popular gamefish in their native range in parts of the Midwest and Canada, as well a wider area of North America where they now thrive.

Why not? Perch are incredibly tasty and at times can be caught in huge numbers … if you know what you’re doing.

One of the most important things you’ll need to know to catch lots of fillet-worthy perch is what to put on the hook.

This article reveals dozens of the best baits for perch we know, which at times can result in excellent catches. Some will be obvious, like the ever-effective minnows and worms. Some are a little unusual.

And a few will surprise the heck out of you but can really get the job done.

Many of these bait types can be used all year, whether under the summer sun when you might be fishing deeper water or in the dead of winter while ice fishing.

To put this article together, we consulted with Bill Janowich. Simply put, Janowich has been perfecting his fish-catching techniques longer than I’ve been alive.

“I’ve been perch fishing for over 70 years, so I’ve seen a thing or two,” said Janowich, who lives in Ohio near Lake Erie. His favorite perch bait on that Great Lake is a 2-inch shiner minnow.

“However, there are many other fisheries in the world, and many different methods of catching perch,” he told us. “Sometimes, necessity is the mother of invention.”

We already have a complete guide to yellow perch fishing on this website.

This article complements the fishing guide by going into more depth on the many baits that will have you catching these fish 12 months out of the year, whether you’re fishing them under the blazing summer sun or through the winter ice.

A variety of baits also can be used in conjunction with Janowich’s own perch-fishing kit.

“I have personally used most of these baits myself,” he said. “Live bait is usually more effective than artificial lures.”

To help you keep them all straight, we’ll divide the types of baits into broad categories.

Don’t see your secret bait for catching yellow perch? Send us a comment below.

Fishy Baits

While the smaller perch feed primarily on insects and crustaceans, the big yellow perch you really want to catch love nothing better than a meal-sized minnow or cut bait.

Often the best minnow or cut baits to use are those that live in the water where you are fishing, because that’s what the perch are already eating.

One note here is that live fish aren’t always legal baits, so check the regulations where you will fish to be sure it’s allowed. In some waters or entire states, live fish and other aquatic creatures aren’t permitted because their use can result in invasive species.

Here are some great examples of using fish as bait to catch yellow perch.

Live Minnows and Other Swimmers

Various types of shiners, freshwater shad, and other small fish are incredibly effective yellow perch baits when fished live right near the bottom.

While many perch anglers prefer small minnows, Janowich likes to fish minnows in the 2- or even 3-inch size range. While that seems big for perches’ small mouths, perch love a nice meal and larger perch will be drawn to larger baits.

In fact, Janowich caught the 14.5-inch jumbo perch pictured above on a 3-inch emerald shiner. It was certified as an “outstanding catch” in Ohio and “fought like a northern pike,” he said.

If smaller 1-inch baits are all you can get, they will work well but also will result in catching some small yellow perch, but bigger ones also will take it.

The following are some minnow and other aquatic baits that might work well, given their availability and legality where you are fishing. Other local options may also be effective.

Shiners

This is a common family of minnows with hundreds of types, and they are among the best live bait you can get.

For example, emerald and spottail shiners are native to the Great Lakes, where shiners are Janowich’s first choice for perch bait. Emerald shiners are more common, but those spot-tails can be excellent if you can find them.

Shiner numbers are down in some areas of the Great Lakes, so catching them can be more difficult.

Bait shops also will sell other small bait fish, such as golden shiners and fathead minnows. Minnow prices at bait stores have gone up in recent years, but they are still worth seeking out, Janowich said.

Dead minnows, including commercially brined or home-salted varieties, aren’t as good as the live variety and at times can be mushy, but these still can be among the best bait alternatives if live minnows aren’t available, Janowich added.

Shad (various types)

Depending on where you are, there may be some freshwater shad available. Gizzard shad are fairly common in the Upper Midwest, and thread fin shad are another variety that might be available where you are.

Herring

These are in the same big family as shad and are similarly effective bait where you can obtain them.

Mosquito fish

Often can be caught in shallow water in lakes and ponds, or might be sold locally.

Suckers

There are a wide variety of suckers across the U.S., and if they co-exist with yellow perch, the small ones will be on the perch’s menu.

Gobies

These are destructive invasive species in many waters including the Great Lakes. Turn the tables when you catch one and turn them into bait.

Crayfish

Live or dead, the soft-shelled ones are especially good perch bait.

Tadpoles

Or pollywogs or whatever you call them, the larval stage of amphibians (often frogs) make excellent bait fished live. They can be found and netted in abundance at certain times of the year, often in the spring.

Freshwater Eels

Smaller eels are excellent perch baits, if you can get them. They are favorite forage for finny fishes and also have lots of action like leeches or lively worms.

Cut Baits

The above types of fish can be used dead, either whole or as cut baits.

Simply fillet larger fish and cut them into about 1-inch long strips of about a quarter inch wide, keeping the skin on to help hold your bait to the hook.

Generally speaking, the best cut baits use fish that are available in the waters where you are fishing.

Some cut bait types to consider include:

Yellow Perch

That’s right. Yellow perch are cannibals and will eat their own. Use the first one (or maybe the first smaller one) for bait to catch more in its own school.

Catch that first perch, especially a smaller one you don’t mind sacrificing, and fillet it out. Cut the fillet into strips that are 1 inch long and about a quarter inch wide, in a pennant shape and rig it up to your hook.

Other types of fish fillets also will often work.

Bluegill

These panfish may be fished as cut baits as described for perch, or if you can catch them small enough, they also can be great live baits for perch.

Bluegill have a naturally sweet meat, and as we’ll discuss more further down in this article, perch love sweets. (Woe is the life of a bluegill, as the bigger ones not only are good eating for humans but make excellent bait for larger fish including giant flathead catfish.)

Crappie

Considered in a similar orbit with yellow perch for their fine eating, crappie cut baits (or very small live crappie) are also a favorite on the perch diet.

White Bass

These are usually larger than yellow perch, but they can be used both for cut baits or, if you catch a very small one, as a live bait for perch.

White Perch

These are often predators of yellow perch, but if you catch a smaller one you can turn the tide and turn it into cut bait or use as a live bait.

Steelhead and Other Trout

While steelhead and their trout cousins are generally too large to use whole, they can be used as cut baits, including using the intestines, fins and eyes (see more on those below).

Fish Tails

That’s right, if you want your bait to look like a fish, start with a fish fin.

Simply cut off a piece of the tail fin, hook it up and drop it down to where the perch are. They’ll pretty much fight to get to it first. And that’s no fish tale (but it is a fish tail).

Yellow perch and some of the other species mentioned above work great for this.

Fish Intestines

“This is an old Canadian charter technique. Catch a fish, cut it open, cut out the intestine, cut it into 3 inch strips and attach to your hook. They last forever and are an excellent bait for all kind of fis,” Janowich said. We’ll take his word for it!

Fish Eyes

Fish eyes, and especially perch eyes, are a tasty offering if you’re a perch.

“Best thing is they’re free and present a ‘good-looking’ choice (sorry, couldn’t resist),” Janowich said.

Worms, Larvae and Other Crawlers

This category covers all sorts of critters in the worm and insect families that fish find irresistible.

Earthworms

The old reliable worm is among the top baits for yellow perch. For one, they simply work. Also, it’s hard to beat their availability, whether from your garden or the bait shop, they are easy to get for a day of fishing.

Nightcrawlers

Buy them at the store or, in some areas, catch them sticking out of their holes at night or hiding out under a piece of wood.

Also known as Canadian nightcrawlers, lob worms and dew worms, these are a premium bait for perch and other game fish.

They can be used whole or cut into pieces, depending on your needs.

There also are African and European nightcrawlers primarily available by purchasing, but the more common North American version is all you really need.

Red worms

Have a garden compost bin? You probably have these small worms, also known as red wigglers. You also can purchase them directly for bait or to start a colony.

They are a little challenging to hook up, but their active wiggling on the hook is nearly impossible for a perch to pass up.

Garden Worms

Whatever you can dig up in the yard or find under a rock at the lake will probably get the job done.

Some types don’t hold on a hook as well as others.

Larval Baits

Mealworms

These yellow critters are beetle larvae and make excellent perch, panfish and even trout bait.

You likely can buy them at a bait shop or pet store (they are sold as food for reptiles, aquarium fish and other pets). They also are fairly easy to raise at home, as I used to do. (Pro tip: the beetles are escape artists, so make sure you have a secure container.)

You’ll use smaller hooks with mealworms than you will with some baits, due to their size.

Waxworms

These are the larvae of a wax moth. Like mealworms, look for them both in bait and pet shops.

Ice fishermen often tip their lure hooks with these or similar live baits for added attraction.

Maggots

Yes, those larvae of the pesky house fly or similar insects. Bait suppliers will carry them in some areas because they are excellent for perch and several other types of game fish, from panfish to kokanee salmon.

Squats and pinkies are generally smaller maggots from other fly species and also work for perch bait. The “caster” form of a maggot, one that is turning into a pupae, also will do the job.

Leeches

These relatives of the earthworm come many species of their own, but leeches can be broadly categorized by blood-sucking and non-blood-sucking.

If you have a choice at the bait shop or while catching your own, Janowich highly recommends the non-bloodsucking variety, and not just because you don’t want them turning the tables and making you the bait.

The non-bloodsuckers feed on lots of things perch eat, which provides a more appetizing scent from the leech.

Janowich likes to hook them right on the sucker end to allow the rest of the leech to wriggle and writhe freely in the water. Perch won’t resist it.

Grasshoppers

Switching to baits found on land, grasshoppers are fantastic baits for perch as well as bluegill, trout and other fish that commonly eat insects.

Once the hoppers come out each year, they should be easy to net in grassy fields and similar areas.

On the hook, they wiggle enticingly, and perch can’t resist.

Crickets

Fish them like a grasshopper, with very similar results.

Compared to grasshoppers, crickets are more likely to be sold in bait shops and pet stores and might be available for longer periods.

But they are a little softer on the hook.

Imitation Baits

This section is about artificial baits made to look much like the real thing, and there are lots of options here because yellow perch will bite plenty of different things.

While purists like Janowich will nearly always stick with the real thing (and the real thing really works), imitation baits have their place.

Some anglers simply don’t want to fuss with live baits or baits that will spoil quickly. Having a jar or plastic bag full of artificial bait already in your tackle box has its appeal.

Note that I’m most experienced with the Berkley line of imitation baits, but try out the ones that work for you.

Artificial Minnows

Hate messing with the real thing … or have trouble finding them to catch or buy?

Artificial minnows along the lines of Berkley’s Gulp! minnows will often do the job, even if not quite as well as an actual live minnow.

We’ve seen some ads for products such as Magic Emerald Shine Minnows that might work similarly.

Artificial Worms

Berkley has a variety of products that fall under the category of fake worms, including PowerBait and Gulp! lines of earthworms, nightcrawlers and angle worms in natural colors as well as some brightly hued options among artificials.

But you certainly don’t have to limit yourself to Berkley products, especially in this category, as lots of companies make soft plastics in worm form.

Try scented artificial worms for increased catches.

Artificial Mealworms

Berkley’s Power Honey Worm is a good imitation bait closely resembling a mealworm, if you like to fish with smaller baits but can’t get the real wiggly kind.

Artificial Maggots

Grossed out by real maggots? Or maybe just don’t have them handy? A jar of Berkley Gulp! maggots can fill that need.

These are a very small bait and often used to tip the hook on a small lure such as spoon, spinner or jig for yellow perch as well as other game fish (including kokanee salmon where I live).

You’ll find some cheaper brands online as well, but we don’t have experience with them.

Artificial Waxworms

Not everyone makes this type as they are somewhat similar to mealworm and maggot baits, but Lunkerhunt has a few varieties that are available through various retailers.

Crappie Nibbles

These tiny pre-formed dough baits work great on the tips of lures.

How do we know? When we’re crappie fishing and put these on the tip of the jig hook, if there are yellow perch in the neighborhood, they won’t stay off the hook.

Even if you’re only after perch, try tipping the hook of a small jig with a Crappie Nibble and fishing it in schools of perch.

A few other companies make similar products as well.

From the Grocery Store

These fishing baits aren’t really intended as such, but they definitely will catch yellow perch. Fresh out of worms or minnows? Stop by the supermarket on your way to the lake.

Meat and Seafood

Hot Dogs

That’s right, “tube steaks” aren’t just for baseball games and campfires. Hot dogs will catch yellow perch in addition to some other game fish (catfish, anyone?). Tear or cut them into bait-sized pieces.

Some anglers suggest that the beef hot dogs, while popular at the ol’ ballgame, are less attractive to perch than those made of chicken or turkey, Janowich said.

Also consider, “smokeys” type of franks are tougher on the hook and produce even more oily scent to attract fish.

Bacon

It’s not just what brings you to breakfast, it’ll bring perch to your fishing hook. Use pieces of bacon raw for best results, as the oily scent it sends out will get the sleepiest perch up and at ‘em. It also will stay put on your hook longer.

Chicken Liver

These little organ meats are sold both in grocery stores and some bait shops. Yes, they are often thought of as catfish bait, but their scent will bring in the perch and other types of fish as well.

Shrimp and Prawns

Though typically saltwater species are sold for human consumption, shrimp and prawns are excellent bait for quite a few freshwater fish, including perch.

Cut them into fish-sized pieces, but leave the shell unpeeled when possible, as they’ll stay on the hook better if stabbed through the tough shell.

Anchovies

If you think of anchovies only as a pizza topping or perhaps as bait for larger fish like catfish and salmon, you might be missing the boat. Or at least the perch.

Cut these oily saltwater baitfish into pieces and the perch will lining up for a salty bite.

Sardines

You know those jokes about being packed together like sardines?

Well, these oily fish sold in tins have tons fish-attracting scent that a school of yellow perch won’t ignore. These are typically labeled Pacific wild caught.

On Other Store Aisles

Candy

That’s right, just like me, perch have a sweet tooth.

While it won’t last long if you hook a Hershey’s chocolate bar square on your hook, look for chewier textures that are more likely to last in the water.

Our suggestion: Try a candy gummy bear or other shape and you’re likely to land some sweet-loving perch. Heck, there are even gummy worms, so it was made to be!

Chewing Gum

What’s even tougher than a gummy candy? How about chewing gum.

Janowich suggests you chew the gum yourself just a minute to get it the right consistency, but leave most of the flavor in the gum before hooking on a piece.

The sweetness will attract the fish, and the rubbery texture will help keep it on your hook.

Golden Raisins

The light-colored types come in various colors and will catch the fish’s attention better than your standard black raisins.

Hook them in place and they will swell up a bit on the hook while releasing a sweet scent that appeals to perch.

Sweet Corn

Buy a small can of sweet corn. The kernels are sweet, brightly colored and tough enough to stay on the hook while attracting yellow perch.

Garlic

Not a sweet or a meat, but garlic is strongly scented and for whatever reason, fish like it. Why do you think so many artificial baits are scented with it? Try the real thing if you run out of your favorite standard bait.

The Weird

Shoe Laces

Uh-huh. You’ll have to cut them up, but make them look like a worm or a leech on the hook and suddenly a day on the boat when you left the bait at home is a day you’ll probably catch a perch or two.

And it really only has to work once, because you’ve already learned that fish fillets, guts and even eyes of that first catch will bring fish to your hook.

Rawhide

Even better than your typical shoe laces is rawhide, like the ones you tie up your boots with or other types of rawhide.

Strips of rawhide not only look like a tasty worm or eel, rawhide won’t rip off your hook easily. So, cowboy up and catch some perch!

Cigarette Butts

This is the first time on this website that we’ve suggested anglers hook on a piece of trash, but you’d be amazed at how well it can work at times. And they really stay on the hook.

“They stay on the hook for a long time and have been known to produce large quantities of perch,” Janowich told us. “I learned this trick by accident while on a fishing trip to Georgian Bay in Canada. For giggles, I baited one on a hook in shallow, weedy water and the perch went crazy.”

Acknowledgements

Northern Ohio resident Bill Janowich contributed many of the yellow perch fishing bait ideas in this article. Janowich is a life-long perch fisherman and has developed a perch-fishing kit he sells online at catchperch.com.

Do you have a favorite yellow perch bait we haven’t covered in this article? Leaving a comment below gives us the permission to add it to this article and/or publish it elsewhere. Comments must be approved. Leave a name as you would like it to be published and an email we can use to contact you if necessary. Your email address won’t ever be published.

Pheasant back mushrooms (Cerioporus squamosus), also commonly known as Dryad’s Saddle, are a common edible mushroom that’s easy to identify. They used to go by the Latin name Polyporus squamosus, so you might find them in old field guides under that name as well.

Pheasant back mushrooms are large speckled brown mushrooms, with a pattern on the surface that appropriately enough resembles the pattern on a pheasant’s back. The speckles are actually very thin brown scales, and you can gently separate them from the cap if you’re careful.

They’re easy to identify and a perfect wild mushroom for beginners since they don’t have any look-alikes.

Sometimes they’ll go by the name hawks wing mushroom, which again, is because of their feather-like patterning and large size.

They also go by the name of “dryad’s saddle” because they sprout out of trees in a large saddle-shaped shelf, perfect for a wandering dryad (wood nymph) to ride. The mushrooms get big fast, which makes them easy to spot as the saddles protrude conspicuously in the woods.

The trick is, that the best tasting pheasant back mushrooms are the small, delicate ones. Once they’re gigantic like a saddle, they’re tough and unpleasant to eat. At that stage, they make wonderful mushroom broth, but if you want to eat the actual mushrooms you need to find tiny ones.

As luck would have it, there are often several tiny, immature pheasant back mushrooms growing under mature saddle-sized ones, so just flip them over and maybe you’ll get lucky. Ideally, they’re no more than 2 to 3 inches across when harvested.

Larger specimens have a leathery texture, but you can still use them in mushroom powder or soup stock. You can also cut away about an inch of flesh from their leading edge, and that part will still be tender.

Where to find Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Pheasant back mushrooms, like chicken of the woods mushrooms, are prolific decomposers and they’ll sprout in the same spot year after year. Once you’ve found a log that produces pheasant backs, you’ll be able to come every year.

Generally, they produce in the spring months, a few weeks after morels. Here in Vermont, that’s usually the first week of June, but in more reasonable climates it’s late April and May.

We also often get a flush in the Autumn months, so I check my spots twice a year. Often enough I’ll see them sometime in September too. In warm locations, they’ll sometimes fruit as a winter mushroom too.

Look for them on dead and dying trees, particularly elm but often other hardwood species as well, including oak, ash, and maple. They will grow on living trees as a parasite, breaking down the heartwood and eventually killing the tree. More often though, I find them on dead and downed trees as a decomposer.

Stately elms were once a common park and roadside tree, but they’ve been killed off by a number of diseases in the past few decades.

I have a particular elm that I watch each spring. It’s downed by the side of a backcountry dirt road that I often travel, and I can “drive-by forage” with my eyes to see when the pheasant back’s are ready.

When this log in bright sunlight fruits and is large enough to see driving by, it’s too far gone to harvest. That’s not the point. Right by a dusty dirt road isn’t the best place to forage anyway…but it does tell me when to check my woodland spots.

This log heats up quicker in the spring than other locations, and when the pheasant backs are big on it, they’re just about the right size in shady woodland spots (or at the edges of cool parkland spaces).

Identifying Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Once you think you’ve found a dryad’s saddle, identification is pretty simple.

First, you want to look for the distinctive pheasant pattern on the top. That’s probably what drew you to the mushroom in the first place.

Make sure it has a single attachment point to the log, usually a thick round single stem where it sprouts from the wood. Unlike chicken of the woods which grows as a fringe, pheasant backs come out with a stem.

Flip the mushroom over, and you’ll notice honeycomb-shaped pores. When the mushrooms are older, the pores are quite deep and really distinct.

That’s when it’s easiest to see their shape, which isn’t quite exactly like the regimented honeycomb in a beehive. It’s a bit more free form, and the honeycomb shapes are a bit irregular.

Still, it kind of reminds you of honeycomb.

On younger pheasant backs, it’s a bit harder to see.

The pore surface is just starting to develop, and the honeycomb is quite small and not very deep. It almost looks like irregular pinpricks, but if you look closely the holes aren’t round.

They won’t be very deep at this point, less than 1mm. Later they’ll be up to 2- 3 mm deep as the mushroom grows.

The spore print from dryad’s saddle is white, though it’s usually not necessary for identification since it doesn’t really have any close look-alikes.

If you’ve got a dappled, pheasant-colored cap with a honeycomb surface underneath, you’ve got a pheasant back. Simple as that.

Beyond that, the smell is a dead giveaway.

While most mushrooms smell like, well, mushrooms, these have a bright, almost citrus-y cucumber scent. Some people compare its scent to freshly cut watermelon rind. Not the fruit, just the fresh aromatic green smell of the rind.

I know, hard to believe, and often the smell isn’t all that strong in older specimens or intact mushrooms that haven’t been cut. Cut one though, and you’ll smell the cucumber.

Harvesting Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Harvesting is pretty simple, just reach in and gently break the mushroom off of the deadwood. It should come away easily, as my 4-year-old demonstrates below.

You shouldn’t need a knife or any other harvesting tools, but you can use one if that’s your preference. The stalk usually isn’t consumed, it’s only used in stocks because it’s quite tough, even in young pheasant backs.

Feel free to cut it off in the field, or bring it home as I do for other uses.

How to Cook Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Young pheasant backs can be dusted clean, sliced, and sauteed in butter or oil. They have a distinctive, almost acidic flavor that to me tastes like they’ve been splashed with vinegar already.

Add in their cucumber-like smell, and I think they do particularly well in pasta dishes. They’re also good in cold (but cooked) salads, like couscous salad or pasta salad. They add a brightness to the mix, but also the savory umami of any mushroom.

Personally, I think they’re great with minimal preparation. Some people, however, think the pore surface has an awkward texture once cooked. It can be peeled off if you prefer, and once you get started it’ll peel away like an orange peel (or the peel of a puffball mushroom).

You can also use a sharp knife to strip away the pore surface. (Or just leave it on, as I do.)

Some people actually like to just peel pheasant backs altogether, removing both the dappled pheasant cap surface and the pore surface.

That’s actually pretty easy to do, provided you cut the mushroom first.

Simply slice them, and then you can peel away the top surface and the poor surface, as they are distinct layers. (Again, I don’t do this, I eat them whole as is, sliced and cooked. This is a matter of personal preference, and some just don’t like the texture of the surface layers.)

Once sliced and sauteed, you can use pheasant back mushrooms anywhere you’d use sauteed mushrooms. Since I think they taste a bit acidic, as if they’ve already been lightly tossed in vinegar, I think they do especially well with cooked greens.

Last season I paired them with wild asparagus, hosta greens, dandelion greens, and some edible flowers from my yard. It made for a truly spectacular wild foraged lunch with little more than butter and wild vegetables/mushrooms.

Larger pheasant back mushrooms tend to be tough, and don’t taste nearly as good as smaller ones.

If you only find big ones, the best way to use them is in a mushroom stock. Simply simmer them in a bit of water until you’ve extracted their color and flavor, then strain and cook with the broth as you otherwise would use broth.

More the recipe following sort? Here’s a recipe for pheasant back stock.

Pheasant Back Mushroom Recipes

Beyond a simple sautee, or mushroom broth with the larger ones, I’ve also found a number of recipes using dryad’s saddle if you’re feeling adventurous:

• Pheasant Back Mushroom Burgers
• Tempura Fried Pheasant Back Mushrooms
• Stinging Nettle and Pheasant Back Palak Paneer
• Dryad’s Saddle Pickled Mushrooms with Jalapeno and Dill

At this point, I don’t know of anywhere that sells pheasant back mushrooms commercially. You might get lucky and find them at your local farmer’s market, as I sometimes do. They’re often just coming in at the tail end of Morel season here locally.

Mushroom Foraging Guides

Looking for more mushroom foraging guides?

• Morel Mushrooms
• Puffball Mushrooms
• Chanterelle Mushrooms
• Shaggy Mane Mushrooms
• Lion’s Mane Mushrooms