There is a universal question among turkey hunters, usually asked in the predawn while the coffee is being made. What will this weather do to the turkeys? We’ve always been told and assumed that birds gobble best when it’s clear, calm, and warm. Nice days and dogwoods, after all, are part of the allure of spring hunting.

But hunting seasons are short and spring is turbulent, and so if you wait for the perfect weather to go hunting, you might not get to go at all. For turkey hunters, one saving grace is that the birds are diurnal — daytime critters — and so almost regardless of what the weather is doing, they are on the ground, somewhere, and can be hunted. One time a buddy and I ditch-slipped a Nebraska longbeard during a tornado warning. Smart? Not at all. But possible.

Turkeys have another saving grace, too. They have waited all year to breed, and a little bad weather doesn’t change their intentions. In fact, I’ve learned, a crummy forecast usually bothers me more than it does the birds.

Just last week in Texas, one of our hunting days was forecast to be 94 degrees (it actually reached 96) with a sustained 30-mph wind. A wildfire had ravaged the ranch we were hunting only a few weeks earlier, and so the dry air was laced with black soot. But before those Winds of Hell began to blow, the morning broke in a fog so thick it seemed I could’ve cut a slice of it from the sky and set it in my truck for later.

Will they even gobble in the fog like this? my buddy Miles wondered aloud.

Not much, and it seems like the fog keeps them in the tree forever, I said, matter-of-factly. Fifteen minutes later, a pair of vocal longbeards strutted right through the soup to our gun barrels. Miles killed one and I missed the other.

(Don’t Miss: 10 Reasons Why You Suck at Calling Turkeys)

A few hours later, the forecast was living up to the hype. Maybe I’ve seen it hit 90 degrees a time or two during the late season in Tennessee, but I wouldn’t swear to it. The Texas wind and heat felt like the rush of opening a broiling oven after something greasy has oozed onto the elements. Turkeys won’t do anything in this, I said, again matter-of-factly, as we cruised ranch roads and glassed under shade trees.

Then we topped a hill where two Rio Grande gobblers were strutting in the blazing sun. One of them gobbled at the truck. We cruised a half mile past them, made a wide loop to set up, and called them right in. Michelle, my wife, killed one at 12:04 p.m. At that point, having been 100% wrong on all of the day’s turkey behavior predictions, I made the safe bet that everyone else was probably at least as hungry as me. Let’s go get some barbecue and try again this afternoon, I suggested.

Listen to the Realtree Outpost Podcast from this hunt:

When in Doubt, Go Hunt

The other day, before Texas, a buddy of mine from Alabama called and said, I slept in this morning because it was cloudy and raining. I think I messed up, because it’s pretty outside now. He’d been having a good spring to that point, with several close calls but no trigger pulled. Since my season at home wasn’t open yet, I was living vicariously through him, and I also felt compelled to suggest what the turkeys would be doing at that very moment in another state, on a property I’d never seen. Channeling Dr. Phil, I told my buddy that many times in the past, I’ve forced myself to get up and go hunt and I’ve never regretted it, even when I didn’t get a bird. When I have slept in, though, I’ve almost universally woken up feeling sorry for myself.

Point being, go hunting and see what happens, I said.

The next morning, my buddy waited out a predawn deluge, and then he heard a turkey gobble at the departing thunder as he was gathering his gear. He sent me pictures of that bird later in the day, lying dead on his tailgate, with the words, How ’bout that, Ol’ Son?

Not that it offered much hope back in Texas. The winds were still raging as I watched the sun fade behind the live oaks that evening, but it seemed as though at least one of my predictions would hold true: Turkeys wouldn’t do squat that evening, hot as it was. Miles was tagging along with me — the first time he’d ever been unarmed in Texas, he said — and we decided to sit within earshot of a creek bottom, where turkeys often roost. With less than an hour of shooting light remaining, I hit my box call, thinking maybe I’d get a bird to shock gobble before fly-up. The answering gobble was so faint I thought I might’ve imagined it, but Miles heard it too.

No way we’re killing that bird, I whispered. He’s a mile away, and they’ll be flying up any minute. Shoot, he’s probably up in a tree right now, gobbling from the limb.

But when he gobbled again a few minutes later, I realized he’d cut half the distance. I popped in a mouth call and yelped, and he roared back from the dark timber, so close I could feel the rattle in his throat. Then I saw him, strutting across the pasture toward me, a mere silhouette in the fading light. But when he got to 25 yards, I could see his white head pretty good.

(Don’t Miss. Seriously. Never Miss a Gobbler Again)

In 28 seasons of hunting, I’ve never killed a gobbling turkey any later in the day than that one. Never worked one at high noon when it was 94 degrees, either. Nor have I ever seen a turkey pitch into a blinding fog and tear right through it, drumming and gobbling so furiously I never lost track of him, before ultimately revealing himself within gun range.

That day, I saw all the above, and in every instance predicted that the turkey would do the exact opposite of what he actually did.

Sometimes, it’s best to just shut your mouth and go hunting.

Tooth of the Arrow broadheads have been around for while, but I was intrigued and finally got my hands one so I could test it.

Now, Tooth of the Arrow is certainly a cool name for a broadhead, but the company also has a great perk. They are so confident that you’ll like their broadheads, that they advertise that you can get a free sample.

Now that’s guaranteed satisfaction!

You can jump straight to the testing of the Tooth Of The Arrow heads by clicking the links below:

• Tooth Of The Arrow Vented
• Tooth Of The Arrow Solids

Tooth Of The Arrow Broadheads | An Overview

The Tooth of the Arrow broadhead is a 4-blade head that is similar to a Slick Trick head.

Each of the blades are exactly the same cutting diameter, so it’s a true 4-blade head. It’s a little bit bigger than a Slick Trick Magnum. But, rather than being 1 and 1/8-inch cutting diameter like the Slick Trick Magnum, this is 1 and 3/16 cutting diameter. So, it makes a little bit wider hole.

For the testing, I shot 450-grain Bishop mammoth arrows, using my Bowtech SR6 which is a 27 inches and 72 pounds.

What makes this head unique is that this is machined out of a single chunk of high-carbon steel. So, there are no blades to be replaced. It’s just one solid chunk.

So, as a negative, you can’t just replace the blades and put in new sharp ones. As a positive way, it’s a pretty stout, strong design. And, with it being such high-carbon steel, it’s not too difficult to sharpen. So, it’s intriguing to see this.

I’ve spun these heads and they spin very true. They also fly well for me. I’ve not tested them at super long ranges but they do – well, I think through a well-tuned bow, they should fly well at longer ranges.

I’d heard really good things about the smaller, standard head.

But, I’ll start off by testing the XL, which intrigued me the most because I just like to make a big hole if I can! I was excited to see how it performed.

So let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow XL did. (Further down I’ll do a head-to-head battle between the XL and the original, so check that out as well!

Vented Penetration Testing

I shot it into my broadhead box where I’ve got four layers of MDF and they’re half inch each, and two of those layers have a rubber foam layer in front to simulate hide and a little bit of soft tissue there in the beginning and the end.

Angled Shot Penetration

Next, I shot it at a 1/2-inch MDF board at a 45-degrree angle to see how it would do through that.

Durability Testing

I shot the Tooth Of The Arrow head into a 22-gauge steel plate to see how it would fare.

Cinder Block Test

The cinder block is the final test that I do with the fixed-blade heads.

I don’t do this test or the steel plate test typically with the mechanical heads, but when you’re using a fixed head, you’re typically doing so because you really want to have some structural integrity and blade strength that’s above and beyond what a mechanical can do.

So, I just like to test the limits. Not many heads hold together after hitting the cinder block. A lot of them take chunks out, but then just kind of bend or fall apart. Very few heads hold together. There have only been a few that have made it. Let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow did.

I would say this head is amongst the top few in terms of structural integrity that I’ve tested. It’s right up there with theQAD Exodus and the Muzzy Trocar and the Trophy Taker A-TAC.

I think the only ones that may have done better are the Bishop Archery and also the Iron Will.

Man, for the price, the Tooth Of The Arrow XL is one impressive head. I have to say, I’m pleasantly surprised. I give it an A+ in all categories.

Comparing the Tooth of the Arrow Original to the XL [Broadhead Battle!]

I wanted to compare the Tooth of the Arrow Original vs the XL version.

Now, I’ve done this in some other instances, like with the Magnus, where I tested the Stinger compared Black Hornet. And in this case, I tested the two models of Tooth of the Arrow broadheads.

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The Tooth of the Arrow broadheads are 100% made in the USA.

I tested these heads for long distance flight (I was able to pop a balloon at 80 yards) and I’m going to test them for edge sharpness and retention, for penetration, and for durability.

Let’s see which one prevails!

These heads have a unique feature about them, in that they keep a lot of the weight within the diameter of the arrow shaft.

Out of the box sharpness comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow broadheads for out-of-the-box sharpness. The purpose is to see if they can still cut paper after a stroke of a carbon arrow shaft. Because both the Original and the XL have the same blades, I only tested one of the heads.

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Penetration comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow Original and the XL for penetration. My medium was ballistic gel that was fronted with a rubber mad and 1/2″ MDF board.

Durability comparison

I shot both heads into a 22-gauge steel plate 5 times to test the durability. Check out the holes these heads made in the steel plate!

The holes themselves are really what sets the Tooth of the Arrow apart. OK. Here you can see the holes from the XL. OK. They are just bit squares. They are not just like four crosses or two crosses, four little slits. They are true squares!

In the steel plate test, there are very heads that are able to punch a chunk out like that. The Exodus does it in a triangular shape. And, as you can see here, the Tooth of the Arrow does it extremely well in a 4-blade shape. So that’s going to be a really difficult hole to close up in an animal.

You can only see on one of the XL blades a little bit of cosmetic marking. I don’t even know if you can pick that up in the picture below. It’s very hard to see.

These heads have extremely impressive durability. Some of the very best that I’ve tested.

Now, I have heard some reports of people shooting them and hitting them into a big heavy bone and one of the blades bending or shearing off. That can happen with any broadhead.

There are all kinds of crazy things that can happen in the field as you hit heavy bone at different angles. But through the steel plate as you can see in the picture below, they faired extremely well.

Cinder Block Test

Let’s look at these heads and see how they did after being shot into the cinder block.

Final Thoughts On The Tooth Of The Arrow Vented Broadheads

So, what do you think of this broadhead battle, the Original versus the XL?

Each of them has their distinct strengths. In terms of overall flight, the Original flies incredibly well. It’s one of the very best flying and forgiving broadheads I’ve ever tested.

In terms of penetration, the Original penetrated much more deeply. But, in terms of hole size, man, the XL really ruled in that department, though both of them really made a nice square hole in the mediums that I shot them through.

And the winner is…

In terms of which one is the winner, really, it’s a toss-up. I have to call it a tie. I hate to do that. But, this really is a draw. It just depends on your personal setup and what you’re hunting.

If you’re going after a really big animal where penetration is the most important thing then man, the Original is the way to go. If you have a lighter setup and you’re concerned about your penetration, then the Original is the way to go.

If you are going after a really long range shot like a pronghorn or something like that that you’re going beyond 60 yards, then the Original is the way to go.

But, if you are going for a shot under 60 yards and you really want to make a nice big hole and you have the kinetic energy to drive it through, (and honestly, it really doesn’t take that much kinetic energy to drive it through), then man, the XL is the way to go. For whitetail and hog shots under 50, 60 yards, I would definitely choose this one.

What I think is the best combination is to have a few of both in your quiver. If a shot is going to be longer, then you pull out the original. If the shot is going to be shorter, use the XL. And that way, you’re ready for any situation, and honestly, any animal as well.

There are several things to consider when choosing a broadhead. These heads have it all. They are fantastic broadheads.

Great job, Tooth of the Arrow!

Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadheads Review

Originally, Tooth of the Arrow only made the 100-grain and 125-grain in a vented version.

But they also have a solid, non-vented version in 100-grain and 125-grain.

Interesting Ferrule Design On the Solid Version

So let’s zoom on in here and let’s check out this new Tooth of the Arrows Solids.

What’s interesting in this solid model is that most of the specifications are exactly the same as the vented model.

The overall length is the same, 0.77 inch, making them to my knowledge the shortest single piece for blade steel broadhead that there is, which is just going to aid in flight.

The blades are also the same thickness as the vented model. They are 0.040 inch thick. The blade angle is the same at 45-degree blade angle to maximize the penetration.

And so, the same short profile, the same cut size of 1 inch, and 2 inches of total cut.

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Why A Solid?

So, why come out with a non-vented blade, a solid blade?

Well, many people prefer solid blades over vented blades because they do have some advantages.

One of the advantages is less noise in flight than with vented brodadheads. You have air passing through that hole and it can make whistling or a wheezing sound as it rotates and flies at really high speeds.

So, the solid heads will definitely be quieter.

In addition, a solid can be more durable because there’s not that venting that creates a thin area in the blade that could be more prone to bending or breaking than a solid one. So, that’s the primary reason for doing it.

But, I wondered how it would affect flight and penetration?

In some ways, you might think, “Well, it’s going to fly better, because with these grooves, it’s going to be more aerodynamic in flight.” But, the opposite side of that is, “well, there’s more exposed surface blade than there was in the original, because so much of that blade was covered by the ferrule.”

So, I was curious to see what the flight would be like.

And, same with the penetration. On the one hand, I can say, “well, with this groove, it might penetrate better.”

But, on the other side of that, I go, “well, I’ve noticed that there’s a really thick ferrule. It often opens up a hole for the shaft to just glide through really easily, and those broadheads penetrate more effectively than the ones with a smaller ferrule.”

So, I was really curious to see how all of these things compare.

I tested the 100-grain solid, the 125-grain solid, and for a comparative sake, I compared it to the 125-grain vented.

Initial Sharpess Test Of The Solid

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Penetration Test 1 Of The Solid:

Edge Retention Test: (sharpness after Penetration Test 1) Of Solid

Penetration Test 2 Of Solid: (layered cardboard)

Durability Test Of Solid: (22 gauge steel plate, max 2 shots)

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Durability Test of Solid: (Concrete Block)

Final Thoughts On Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadhead

The solid is going to be a little bit quieter in flight than the vented version and I think the blades are going to be a little bit more durable, because they have that extra support.

However, I think maybe the vented models are going to penetrate just a little bit better and you saw that in the testing. And, I think they might be a little bit more forgiving in really long range flight.

But again, that may be all within the margin of error.

There may not be differences at all in those areas because I think all of them, both the vented, the non-vented are really durable. They fly really well and they penetrate really well.

The best endorsement of a product is to use it continually and take its reliability for granted.

My Timberland® Earthkeeper boots fit that description and they have been through the wringer.

by Leon Pantenburg

There was no comparison shopping going on when I bought my Timberland Earthkeeper boots. My old Georgia® work boots were about worn out, and I was sorta looking for a new pair. The Earthkeepers were on a sale rack in Bend, Oregon, there was a pair that fit me and the price was right.

Today, I don’t think about my Timberland work boots. They’re just there, parked by the back door to the garage or they may be tossed in the back of my pickup. The Timberlands get pulled on when I mow the yard, walk the dog, climb a ladder, work with power tools, trim shrubs and trees and grub around in the garden. If I’m working outside, chances are I’ll be wearing them.

Originally released in 2007, according to the Timberland website, this boot was the start of the Earthkeepers® Edition that has grown to include shoes, clothes, and more.

Here are the specs of the Timberland Earthkeeper boots style 15551210:

• Better Leather from a tannery rated silver by the Leather Working Group for its water, energy, and waste management practices
• Footbed lined with leather from a tannery rated silver by the Leather Working Group for its water, energy, and waste management practices
• 100% recycled PET laces
• ReBOTL™ fabric lining containing at least 50% recycled plastic
• Midsole of EVA-blend foam for high-rebound cushioning
• Steel shank for arch support
• TPR welt
• Rubber outsole
• Imported

Here’s the good stuff:

Wear: My Earthkeepers have been worn regularly for the past decade or so. Finally last fall, the sole started to separate from the upper. Some glue and a C clamp fixed that, and the soles are good for a lot more hard wear.

Comfort: It goes without saying that work boots need to be comfortable, especially if you will be standing and working all day. The Earthkeepers don’t have any sort of waterproof liner, so they are cooler than most boots with some sort of waterproof liner. This also means that you can’t wade in water without getting your feet wet. That’s fine – I have Muck Boots for wet conditions.

Style: As work boots go, these look good in most situations. I wear mine with jeans and Carharts, or with cut-offs and a T-shirt when I go to Lowe’s to pick up stuff. Working people typically don’t worry about their footwear’s appearance, but it’s nice to have a good-looking pair anyway.

Urban dwellers have discovered work boots, and the sensible footwear has a place in the big cities. If you ever have to evacuate your home due to natural or man made disasters, these are the boots you want to be wearing.

Fit: My foot size is 11, EE width, in hikers. The Earthkeepers fit my feet just right.

Laces: My boots still have the original laces, and they show minimal wear. The laces stay tied and perform as should be expected.

Care: I don’t do anything to my Earthkeepers. The boots get cleaned as needed. I suppose the leather should be treated with mink oil or some leather preservative and that may happen some day. To keep your Earthkeepers looking good, the leather should be maintained regularly.

Then there’s this:

Durability: It’s been mentioned that the sole started to separate from the upper. Considering how hard these boots have been worn, that’s acceptable. They can be re-soled.

Sole: I prefer a smooth sole on work boots. I have hikers with aggressive tread for hiking and hunting, and the soles should match the terrain. But in a boot you might be wearing to go in and out of a house, from the truck to the combine or from the barn to inside, the sole needs to be easy to scrape off and clean. Also, a smoother sole is better for climbing on ladders.

Most hiking trails these days are well-worn paths, and aggressive tread is overkill. A smoother sole is easier on the environment.

From the website: At the heart of the Timberland® brand is the core belief that a greener future is a better future. This comes to life through a decades-long commitment to make products responsibly, protect the outdoors, and strengthen communities around the world. The brand has committed to plant 50 million trees worldwide by 2025, and has a bold vision for its products to have a net positive impact on Nature by 2030, giving back more than they take.

Do you need a pair of Earthkeepers?

Everyone needs some work boots, even folks who live in the city. These boots have proven themselves, and I will be looking for a new pair if mine ever wear out!

Please click here to check out and subscribe to the SurvivalCommonSense.com YouTube channel – thanks!

So you have your rifle but need a way to stabilize your rifle to make clean, accurate shots? Well, look no further than a rifle bipod! In this guide, we dive into the best rifle bipod for your setup and needs.

I’ll start with some of the market’s top bipod options and then see the best options for different applications.

Caldwell XLA Pivot

The Caldwell XLA pivot bipod is a compact, lightweight aluminum bipod made for bolt action rifles and AR-15 style rifles.

The XLA pivot is a budget bipod but not a low-quality bipod.

The legs of the bipod are made of aluminum and the other parts are steel.

This bipod has two external springs that allow the legs to flip down and be resecured in the up position to make moving with the bipod easier.

Javelin Spartan Lite

The Javelin Spartan Lite is an extremely simple bipod made by Spartan Precision Equipment.

The Javelin Spartan Lite is a three-piece system that allows you to remove the legs of the bipod via a screw-on and off-based system to achieve your preferred length.

The Javelin Spartan Lite is very accurately named: it’s lite. The short-leg version is only 4.6 ounces.

The disadvantage to the Javelin system is the legs are fixed height.

The attachment system for the Javelin is supplied with a classic rifle adapter kit, which uses the sling stud that is included on most rifles.

The Javelin provides a great deal of stability since the legs are fixed height and stationery.

Harris Series Bipod

The Harris Bipod is probably one of the most well-known rifle bipods on the market. In fact, when you ask someone what bipod you should buy they are likely to recommend to you a Harris Series bipod.

The Harris bipods have earned their stripes and are extremely well known. The Harris excels at what it is for its price point. Sitting right around the $100 range, it is affordable and feature-packed.

The Harris bipod has several ways to attach it to a rifle, including a QD mount system.

One thing to note about the Harris series is the two external springs that function the same way the Caldwell bipods do. The springs all for retraction and deployment of the bipods.

This made for the perfect pairing with my Thompson Center Compass.

Magpul Rifle Bipod

The Magpul rifle bipod is my go-to bipod on my Ruger American Hunter rifle. I love this bipod, but it does have some drawbacks.

The price of the Magpul bipod is in line with other mid-tier rifle bipods. At around the $100 mark, it is incredibly competitive.

Magpul is known for its polymer products, so it’s not a huge shock that the Magpul bipod has a substantial amount of polymer in the design.

They even have a MOE version that is entirely polymer. I’ll talk about that next.

The Magpul bipod is highly compact and uses a button deployment system to allow you to adjust the height of the bipod legs.

While the Magpul bipod isn’t the lightest of the list it is the lightest with its features.

Magpul MOE Bipod

The Magpul MOE bipod is the all-polymer version of the Magpul Rifle Bipod. You may ask, why would I want a polymer bipod?

Two main things: weight and price.

The price of the polymer bipod is $74.95, which is $30-40 cheaper than its metal counterpart.

While it still provides many of the same features, the polymer is not as strong (some say sturdy) as metal.

What it loses in strength, it gains in weight reduction. The MOE bipod is only 8 ounces.

Warne Precision Bipod

Warne Precision is at the higher end of this list but is feature-packed and high-quality.

This bipod is nice because it can be adjusted from the shooting position and has rapid leg deployment and no external springs.

The Warne bipod is excellent for nearing any application from hunting to competition, and everything in between brings excellent stability.

With that stability comes a pretty sizeable cost. At $335, it isn’t a cheap option but very likely the best option for features.

Accu Shot Atlas Bipod

B&T Industries makes the Accu Shot one of the most popular high-end bipods, with everyone from recreational hunters to tier 1 military units using it.

It would be considered the current gold standard of weapon bipods.

ACCU-TAC BR-4

The ACCU-TAC BR-4 is one of the best-looking and feature-packed bi-pods on the market today.

Don’t get this confused with the Accu-Shot; they are entirely different companies.

The Accu-Tac will run on the high end of the price points for rifle bi-pods, but you get many features and an extremely high-quality design.

Adjusting the Accu-Tac Bi-Pod

The Accu-Tac B4 is easily adjusted for height and uneven surfaces. The legs are extremely easy to deploy you simply pull out and set them to the angle that works best.

You can then adjust the up-and-down height of the bi-pod by pulling down on the bottom of the Accu-Tac legs. To retract the legs, press the adjustment button on the side of the bipod.

This design is incredibly simple and one of my favorite bipod designs. It’s sturdy and easy to use.

Attaching the Accu-Tac Bi-Pod

The Accu-Tac BR-4 Bi-Pod attaches via a Picatinny rail attachment that can be adjusted easily and is on a QD mount system.

The QD mount makes it easy to attach and detach your bi-pod if you need it removed. This bi-pod does store well, but if you want to cut down the overall weight of your gun, you may want to remove it for certain applications.

In my opinion, the Accu-Tac BR-4 is one of the best rifle bipods on the mark!

MDT GRND-POD

The MDT GRND-POD bipod is a cutting-edge accessory designed to enhance the stability and accuracy of rifles, making it a favored choice among avid marksmen and professional shooters.

Crafted with precision engineering and high-quality materials, this bipod offers exceptional performance in a variety of shooting conditions.

Its versatility is a standout feature, as it provides both fixed and pivoting modes, allowing shooters to adapt to different shooting scenarios quickly.

Whether you’re in a prone position or shooting from a bench, the MDT GRND-POD delivers unmatched stability, ensuring consistent shot placement.

One of the standout features of the MDT GRND-POD is its robust construction.

It is built to withstand the rigors of the field and can endure harsh environmental conditions.

The bipod’s legs are adjustable, allowing for precise height customization to accommodate various shooting situations and terrains.

Quick and effortless deployment is possible thanks to its user-friendly design, ensuring shooters spend less time setting up and more time focusing on their targets.

With the MDT GRND-POD bipod, shooters can significantly improve their shooting accuracy, making it an indispensable tool for those who demand peak performance from their rifles.

How to Choose a Rifle Bipod

Choosing the best rifle bipod for your rifle is a crucial decision that can significantly impact your shooting experience and accuracy.

With numerous options available on the market, it’s essential to consider several key factors to make an informed choice.

1. Bipod Type: There are primarily two types of bipods: fixed and pivoting. Fixed bipods offer stability but limited flexibility in target tracking. Pivoting bipods provide the ability to pan and tilt, allowing for smoother tracking of moving targets. Consider your shooting style and the types of situations you’ll encounter when choosing between these two types.
2. Height Adjustment: Look for a bipod with adjustable leg height. This feature allows you to adapt to various terrains and shooting positions, such as prone, sitting, or bench shooting. Telescoping legs or quick-release mechanisms are beneficial for easy and quick height adjustments.
3. Build Quality: Invest in a bipod made from durable materials like aluminum or steel. Quality construction ensures longevity and reliability, even in rugged conditions. Weather-resistant coatings can also protect your bipod from the elements.
4. Attachment Method: Consider how the bipod attaches to your rifle. Picatinny rail or swivel stud mounts are common options. Ensure compatibility with your rifle’s attachment points.
5. Leg Design: The shape and design of the bipod legs can affect stability. Some bipods feature wider, non-slip rubber feet or spiked feet for better grip on various surfaces.
6. Weight: The weight of your bipod can impact portability. For hunting or long-distance shooting, a lightweight option might be preferable. However, for benchrest shooting or precision shooting, a heavier, more stable bipod may be ideal.
7. Price: Quality bipods come in a range of prices. While it’s tempting to opt for the most budget-friendly option, investing in a reputable brand and model often pays off in terms of durability and performance.
8. User-Friendliness: Look for features that enhance ease of use, such as quick-deploy legs or one-handed adjustments. These can be especially handy in fast-paced shooting situations.
9. Reviews and Recommendations: Seek out reviews from experienced shooters and consider their recommendations. Online forums and user reviews can provide valuable insights into the performance and reliability of specific bipods.
10. Brand Reputation: Well-known brands in the shooting industry often have a track record of producing quality accessories. Research the reputation of the brand you’re considering to ensure you’re getting a reliable product.

Ultimately, the choice of a bipod for your rifle should align with your shooting needs and preferences.

Taking the time to evaluate these factors will help you select a bipod that enhances your shooting experience and improves your accuracy in the field or at the range.

Hunting Rifle Bipods

Nearly any bipod can be a hunting bipod but to drill down and find the best hunting rifle bipod you need to know what type of hunting you’ll be doing.

For example, if you are hunting from a tree stand or climbing stand,rr a bipod either doesn’t make much sense or will need to be very specific to your needs since there typically isn’t much to rest your bipod legs on in a climbing stand.

In short, determining what will work as the best rifle bipod for hunting will largely depend on how you plan to hunt.

Best Budget Bipod Rifle

My best budget bipod recommendation will likely come as no surprise as this company has a long-standing reputation.

The Magpul MOE bipod takes the budget best rifle bipod category handily. With its $75 price tag and solid performance, it takes the gold on budget and quality.

Best Rifle Bipod for Long Range Shooting

The Harris series of bipods are the most popular among professional shooters; having over 45% of the professional shooting market, they are #1 for long-range shooting.

While they may not be the best or the most expensive, they are certainly the most popular when it comes to the best rifle bipod.

Bluegill and sunfish are fun to catch and make great table fare. But for years I practiced strict catch-and-release whenever I targeted bream because I felt there wasn’t enough meat for the effort required.

Then a buddy of mine invited me to a bluegill fish fry, and I realized just how wrong I’d been.

From that point on, I was a believer in cleaning and eating a portion of the bluegill and sunfish I caught. The truth is, they’re really not that difficult to clean, and their mild flavor and flaky white meat make them some of the best-tasting freshwater fish you can eat.

If you haven’t given fried bream a try, you don’t know what you’re missing!

RELATED: Are Bluegill Good to Eat? [Answered]

There are three primary ways to clean bluegill and sunfish, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Let’s take a look at the three methods, and you can ultimately decide which best suits your needs.

Scaled and Dressed

By far, the easiest way to clean bluegills is the scaled and dressed method, which only requires three simple steps:

1. Cut off the head of the fish, right behind the pectoral fin.
2. Dress the fish by cutting the belly open from the anus to where you cut off the head. You can then remove all the internal organs.
3. Scale the fish. This is a simple process of removing the fish’s scales by scraping them from the rear of the fish towards the front (the opposite direction than they are laying).

There are tools specifically made to scale fish, but it can also be done with the edge of a knife blade or even a spoon. To get a good visual of the process, check out the YouTube video below.

The biggest benefit of this method is that it’s quick and easy. And since you often have a bunch of bluegill or sunfish to clean at once, that means less time cleaning fish, and more time kicked back enjoying a cold beverage while talking about the one that got away.

The downside is you’ll have all the bones to contend with, so you and your guests have to be extra careful to ensure no one accidentally swallows a bone. You also have the skin on, which some fish eaters don’t care for.

Skinned and Dressed

The second easiest way to clean bluegills is similar to the first, but rather than scaling the fish, you take the time to skin it. You still remove the head and internal organs.

The only real benefit to this method over scaling and gutting is that it eliminates the skin for those who don’t like the flavor. You still have the bones to deal with.

Personally, this is the one method discussed here that I don’t personally waste my time on, but I wanted to mention it for those who may find it beneficial (I’m looking at you, crunchy fish skin lovers).

Filleted

While filleting bluegill is a little more time-consuming, and requires a little more finesse, it’s my preferred way to prepare them. With a little practice, you’ll be able to filet bream almost as quickly as you can scale and dress them, and you won’t have to worry about getting a fish bone caught in your throat.

Fileting bluegill isn’t difficult, but you’ll need a couple of tools to make the job go smoothly: a sharp fillet knife and a good cutting board.

It’s much easier to show someone how to fillet a fish than it is to describe in an article, so we’ve included an excellent video below from the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources.

But to summarize, after gutting the fish, you make a cut behind the pectoral fin until you hit the spine at the top, and the opening where you gutted the fish at the bottom. Then turn your blade toward the back of the fish, and run it down the spine at the top, and through the middle of the belly on the bottom. When you get to the tail, stop just short of removing the whole side of the fish.

Flip the half over the tail, then proceed to run your knife blade right along the skin of the fish, removing all the meat. Once you’ve removed the skin, you still have one step left. The rib bones are still in the fillet at this point, so you want to carefully cut them out, minimizing the amount of meat that comes out with them.

Once the ribs are out, you should have a nice boneless bluegill fillet ready for some breading and the frying pan!

Summary

Bluegill are plentiful, fun to catch, and delicious to eat. So don’t let the thought of a little fish cleaning keep you from taking advantage of the opportunity to host a fish fry for family or friends. There are a few great ways to quickly and efficiently process the fish, and whichever method you choose, the result will be mouth-watering fried bluegill.

There are an incredible number of broadheads on the market today, so choosing the best mechanical broadhead for your particular setup can be a daunting task.

My hope is that this article will help you narrow down your choices to a manageable number so that you can make a final decision based on your needs and the information at hand.

For hunting whitetail deer, our favorite is the G5 Deadmeat. If you prefer a more streamline 2-blade setup, then the Rage Hypodermic is going to be hard to beat.

If you’re looking specifically for a crossbow broadhead, we have a whole other article for that.

The G5 Deadmeat is our choice for the overall best mechanical broadhead. I am a big fan of G5 Outdoors and their American-made products.

The G5 checks all the boxes that make up a great expandable broadhead: it’s solid steel, features three blades with a 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter for maximum damage, and the Snap lock system keeps the blades in place to prevent pre-deployment.

The blades are rear-deploying, which we feel is a better design because they lose less energy during deployment, and the risk of deflection is less than with forward deploying blades.

In addition to its solid design, we like that the Deadmeat is offered in both 100 and 125 grains for those who may want a heavier setup. The three-pack of broadheads includes a Ballistic Match Point practice tip that matches the flight of the Deadmeat for easy practice without damaging your hunting broadheads.

If you want a solid expandable broadhead that hits hard and creates great blood trails, we highly recommend the G5 Deadmeat!

No one sells more broadheads annually than Rage, and I doubt any on the market kills more deer. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re the best, but they have done a great job of marketing over the years.

Rage aren’t my favorite, but if I was going to shoot one it would be the standard two-blade Hypodermic.

The chisel tip, combined with the 2-inch cutting diameter should result in decent penetration, plenty of damage, and a short blood trail.

The rear deploying blades should minimize energy loss, and the improved shock collar technology ensures the blades stay in place until impact. We also like that this model Rage has a steel ferrule for maximum strength and durability.

The icing on the cake with these Rage broadheads is that you can often find them at a great price on Amazon. And despite what you may have heard, Rage broadheads are American-made.

I have personally used and killed deer with NAP Killzones. I really can’t say anything negative about them, other than I wished the long, tapered ferrule was steel rather than aluminum.

The Killzones are similar to the Rage discussed above in that they are rear deploying and feature a 2-inch cutting diameter.

What I like about the Killzone is that is features a spring clip design for blade deployment that eliminates the need for any rubber bands, clips or retainers. I also like the hardened trophy tip designed to split bone and get maximum penetration.

If you’re looking for a 2-blade mechanical broadhead with a decent cutting diameter, then the NAP Killzone may be the perfect option.

If it weren’t for the aluminum ferrule, we probably would have designated them as the Best Two Blade Mechanical Broadhead, but for now, the Rage Hypodermic gets that nod. You won’t go wrong with either, though.

While the G5 Deadmeat is our overall pick for best mechanical broadhead, their Megameat is a great option as well.

The Megameat features the same three-blade design, all steel construction, and Snap lock construction to keep the blades in place. The main difference is the larger 2-inch cutting diameter.

The reason we chose the Deadmeat over the Megameat is our belief that a 1.5-inch cutting diameter is ideal for a three-blade broadhead.

If you prefer a larger cutting diameter and have a bow setup that will give you a pass-thru every time, then the Megameat may be the perfect option for you. One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong with a G5 product.

The Rage 2-Blade Chisel Tip is the second Rage expandable broadhead on our list, and the most popular option in the Rage’s extensive lineup of broadheads.

Like the Hypodermic, the Chisel Tip SC is 100 grain and features a 2-inch cutting diameter. The main difference is in the tip.

The Hypodermic has a longer, tapered tip that is part of the overall one-piece steel ferrule. The Chisel Tip has a unique, twisted chisel tip that is made for breaking through bone.

The reason we ranked this one below the Hypodermic is due to the weaker aluminum ferrule. Overall, though, this is still a great option.

Swhacker mechanical broadheads have a unique blade design with two separate cutting edges.

The smaller wing blades are designed to cut the hide and first set of ribs, with the idea that the main blades will still be razor-sharp once they deploy in the body cavity for maximum damage to internal organs.

In my mind, two weak points on the Swhacker are the aluminum ferrule and the rubber bands used to hold the blades closed in flight. However, I do like the fact that there is little chance of the blades not deploying due to the wing blade design.

And while they may not be my favorite broadhead, it’s hard to argue with a 4.7 out of 5 rating on Amazon. I also have mad respect for Levi Morgan as an archer and a bowhunter, and he is a big believer in Swhacker broadheads.

Our Top 3

Pros and Cons of Expandable Broadheads

Choosing the Perfect Broadhead

All the broadheads discussed above are well known, highly rated, and should fly like your field points if your bow is properly tuned. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

I’ve shot all of them myself with good results, although I now prefer fixed blade broadheads for deer.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your choice among these options, here are the most important features to consider:

Broadhead Weight

Most mechanical broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose.

If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

Even if you like a heavier setup, you can always use a 100 grain mechanical and add weight with a heavier brass insert or insert weight.

Two Blade vs Three Blade Broadheads

In your quest to find the perfect option, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two or three blade broadhead.

First off, let me say that either of those options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option.

A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, and/or enough poundage on your bow, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a broadhead. Similar to the blade number discussion above, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail.

A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail.

Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch maximum cutting diameter from a mechanical broadhead.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best mechanical broadhead can be challenging. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement.

That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the options listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best mechanical broadhead for your specific needs.

If you’re in the market for an LPVO, it goes without saying that you’d want the best glass that you can afford. But before we get into the best lpvo for you, there’s another question we have to answer first: Do you choose an lpvo with first focal plane or second focal plane? We’ll get into all of that in this article today.

What is an LPVO?

So what is an LPVO? LPVO stands for low powered variable optic. Essentially, it’s a scope that allows you to adjust the magnification power from 1X to something higher. The most common lpvo power ranges go from 1X to 6X, 1X to 8X and 1X to 10X.

FFP vs SFP

When browsing online sites you may see the acronyms ‘FFP’ and ‘SFP.’ FFP stands for first focal plane and SFP stands for second focal plane. To make sure you don’t unintentionally purchase the wrong lpvo, pay attention to these optics’ acronyms in the product title and description. But what is the difference between first and second focal plane?

What is First Focal Plane?

One way to help you better understand first focal plane vs second is to remember ‘FFP’ as ‘front focal plane.’ Take a look at the image above and you’ll see several pieces of information. Notice where in the figure it says ‘objective’ and ‘eyepiece.’ The eyepiece is the rear part of the scope closest to your eye. For a first focal plane lpvo, the reticle is placed on the plane (magnification erector assembly) furthest away from your eye and closer to the front of the scope.

Great, what does that all really mean? Based on where the reticle is placed it will give you a different focusing and aiming experience with your lpvo. For first focal plane optics the reticle will change in size in correlation with which power magnification you are using. The higher power you go, the larger the reticle will appear. As you reduce magnification, the reticle shrinks in size. At 1x power the reticle is barely visible and that goes for the illuminated red dot as well (if the lpvo has one). Another caveat is that at max power, the reticle may become so large and thick that it could cover up the target in an undesirable manner (depends on manufacturer and model).

Is a first focal plane scope better?

Generally speaking, the common trend for most shooters is to buy FFP scopes. The more accurate answer is that FFP is not necessarily the better option but it is certainly the more easy and convenient one. A lot of critics will say that using high quality FFP scopes will improve your shooting and chances of acquiring a target faster. Why is that?

The reason for that is because with a first focal plane lpvo, the mil dots or holdover marks on a FFP scope’s reticle will remain accurate no matter what magnification power you are using. This means that, depending on the reticle type you’re using, there is little to no calculations ever needed while aiming. That’s why competitors and hunters alike will often choose FFP LPVO’s over a SFP.

What is the best first focal plane scope?

It’s a tough call but we would say that a couple of the best first focal plane lpvo scopes include the Nightforce ATACR 1-8×24 or the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24. We wouldn’t consider any 1X to 6X lpvo as the best because with a larger optical range, the clarity of being at 6X on the aforementioned ATACR or Razor is just that much clearer than a lpvo that maxes out 6X.

What is Second Focal Plane?

Now that you know what the first focal plane is, understanding the second focal plane is a lot easier. Since the first focal plane is closest towards the front of the scope, the second focal plane is the one closest to your eye when looking through the scope. Thus, the reticle is located on the second focal plane for SFP LPVO’s.

With a SFP lpvo, unlike with a FFP lpvo, the reticle maintains the same size no matter which power magnification is being used. How does that translate to your shooting experience? Well, with SFP, it means that your reticle’s hold off marks are only accurate at a designated power set by the manufacturer so some may see that as a major losing point.

However, SFP glass is typically clearer and has less distortion at higher magnifications. Something rarely talked about, if ever, is that SFP lpvo users also get to enjoy a brighter red dot compared to FFP lpvo scopes which aids in faster target acquisition at short distances. More importantly, if you simply remember your holds at each magnification, the accuracy of SFP hold off marks becomes a non-issue. So definitely don’t disregard SFP LPVO’s as an option while you’re shopping around as it is a more than viable option.

What is a second focal plane good for?

Optics manufacturers market second focal plane LPVO’s as good options for low-light situations such as hunting or scenarios that don’t require you to use hash marks for range estimation. There’s definitely some wisdom in that — take a look at the image above. That’s the (MOA) reticle of the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 FFP lpvo scope.

Notice how there are several numbers next to all the holdover marks? Well these sort of reticles aren’t used with second focal plane LPVO’s since those numbers and mil dots would only be accurate at one of the power magnifications set by the manufacturer. As information that is only accurate at one of the scope’s settings it just wouldn’t make sense for a SFP scope to use that kind of reticle. Most SFP lpvo’s will use a reticle similar to the one in the image below.

If you’re shooting with an AR-15 or an AR-10 at targets inside of 500 yards, the second focal plane LPVO is going to work perfectly. That being said, SFP optics have traditionally been used by hunters the most.

Is the second focal plane better?

“Better” is such a subjective unit of measurement. Every shooter is going to have a different set of deciding factors for what type of lpvo works “better” for them. If the reticle changing in size bothers you in FFP scopes, then a SFP scope might be more suitable to your preference. When it comes to first focal plane vs second — If you venture into long distance and precision shooting but don’t mind doing some quick conversions for calculating accurate MOA for the reticle’s hold off marks then SFP is going to work for you. For those that don’t want to be doing any math or extra critical thinking then SFP may not be for you. While higher quality (really depends on price range) FFP lpvo’s may not have this issue — some SFP lpvo’s can be just as effective, if not more, in close quarters situations since SFP scopes tend to have brighter red dots.

What is the best second focal plane LPVO?

In our opinion, the best second focal plane lpvo is EOTech’s Vudu 1-8×24 SFP. While 1-8x power lpvo’s are not commonly made with second focal plane reticles EOTech designed this expressly for 3-gun competitions. That means this lpvo is great for short to mid-range hunting distances as well. Of course, if you’re hunting larger game or doing precision shooting you might want something with more range and in that case this optic would not be the best for those applications.

LPVO Applications

What are all the applications that a lpvo can be used in? In this section we’ll discuss all the instances where iron sights, red dot sights and holographic sights just might not cut it but a lpvo might be more suitable.

LPVO – Competitive Shooting

A lot of competitive shooting involves cardboard slaying at very close distances. But to make things more interesting, it’s very common to see a couple of steel targets be set out a couple hundred yards away for a match. While a red dot, reflex or holographic sight can be perfect for any target inside of 100 yards, it might get difficult once targets start being placed out double or triple that distance. Accuracy is important and gets you higher scores in some types of matches but at the end of the day, speed is the name of the game. An lpvo can help competitors save significant time in finding their target and taking aim which is paramount when looking to place and win medals.

LPVO – Target Practice

Plinking is really fun. Sometimes there’s nothing better than the positive feedback of hearing the sound of steel ringing through your ear pro. But at some point, you have to ask yourself, “what the heck are you doing?” Are you shooting with any sort of purpose or are you really just mag dumping? Hopefully, you’re training for a specific reason. Whether your reason for doing target practice is for competition or more for a duty purpose, having an lpvo is a force multiplier as it increases your effective range and accuracy. If you expect to be engaging targets further out than 100 yards getting a lpvo is highly recommended.

LPVO – Law Enforcement/Military

It doesn’t seem like lpvo usage is as common with local law enforcement just yet but you can be sure that our military is definitely all aboard on the lpvo train. For most civilians and competitors we won’t really need any lpvo with power magnification ranges above 1X to 10X. However, soldiers in the military may need to regularly engage with the enemy at much further distances than that range allows for. Which is why there are also several LPVO’s that cover a much further distance. Just look at all the different ATACR riflescopes that Nightforce offers.

LPVO – Hunting

LPVOs are perfect for hunting varmint and smaller game 1X to 6X power is the perfect amount of optical range needed to hunt coyotes or feral boars. But of course, if you need more range you opt for a scope with 1X to 8X or 1X to 10X power. Anything bigger than that and we tread into medium powered variable optics and that’s not a lpvo anymore.

Start your next AR-15 build with 80 Percent Arms!

We hope this has helped better inform you on the first vs second focal plane debate. Whether you get a FFP LPVO or a SFP LPVO, you’re going to need a dope AR-15 to put it on! Start your own 80% AR15 build today and let our awesome customer service team know if you need any help along the way.

The anti-gunners in gun control advocacy groups and politicians are constantly going after our rights to have and make our own firearms. Don’t believe us? You must not have been paying attention to the news the past couple of years. Subscribe to our emails below to get our weekly newsletter so you stay informed and apprised of the most important 2A News today.

This species is known for its long bill that grows from the front of its head. Blue marlin use this bill to stun their prey by slashing their heads in a side-to-side motion, knocking potential prey unconscious, and making it easier to catch. The blue marlin’s bill differs from the swordfish’s and the sailfish‘s by being round and pointed, rather than flat and blunt. Like many open ocean bony fishes, blue marlin start out as extremely tiny larvae, no more than a few millimeters long and weighing only a few hundredths of a gram. Soon after hatching, they already have a visible bill. Blue marlin grow rapidly, and in the course of their lives they may increase their body weight by at least one million times.

Because blue marlin undergo such an amazing transformation in size (from being nearly microscopic to being one of the largest open ocean predators), they eat a wide variety of prey, throughout their lifetimes. At a young age, they eat tiny zooplankton, and their prey increases in size as they do. As adults, they eat fairly large bony fishes and squids. Similarly, blue marlin are eaten by a wide variety of predators. When they are newly hatched, they are eaten by other fishes that specialize on eating plankton. The size of their predators increases as they grow, and adult blue marlin are not eaten by anything other than large open ocean shark species.

The blue marlin is a highly migratory species, with individuals migrating across entire ocean basins and even between oceans. One individual, for example, was tagged off the east coast of the United States (western Atlantic Ocean) and recaptured in the Indian Ocean. Like many migratory species, the females are larger than males. In fact, adult female blue marlin are as much as four times the size of the largest males. All of the largest individuals are female. blue marlin reproduce through external (rather than internal) fertilization, where the female releases her eggs into the water column while the male releases his sperm. Once the sperm find the eggs, fertilization occurs. While spawning, a single female may release several million eggs, increasing the likelihood that some will be fertilized and that at least one hatched larva will grow to reach adulthood. Though almost all fishes are cold blooded, blue marlin and the other billfishes have a specialized blood vessel structure – called a countercurrent exchanger – that allows them to warm their brains and eyes. This adaptation provides them with a major advantage when hunting, by allowing them to think more quickly and see more clearly.

The blue marlin is a targeted fishery species in only a limited number of areas but is captured as accidental bycatch in fisheries targeting other species throughout its range. In some areas, this accidental capture is threatening blue marlin populations, and scientists consider the species vulnerable to extinction. Generally speaking, blue marlin populations are decreasing in numbers. Though it is not targeted commercially throughout much of its range, the blue marlin is one of the most highly sought after big game fishes in the world. Sport fishing enthusiasts spend tens of thousands of dollars to catch large blue marlin, and they are typically released alive (though recent data suggests that released individuals may frequently die after the fact). If numbers continue to decline, this highly valuable sport fishery may be in danger of collapse.

Taxonomy note: Several times throughout the history of studying marine fishes, researchers have divided the blue marlin into multiple species, but recent genetic studies leads scientists to believe that all blue marlin around the world are the same species.

Oceana joined forces with Sailors for the Sea, an ocean conservation organization dedicated to educating and engaging the world’s boating community. Sailors for the Sea developed the KELP (Kids Environmental Lesson Plans) program to create the next generation of ocean stewards. Click here or below to download hands-on marine science activities for kids.

Additional Resources:

IUCN Red List

NOAA Fisheries

Glocks…one of the most popular, recognizable, and divisive brands in the firearms world.

Even if you take a step out of the gun community, most people know about Glock. From movies to rap lyrics, the brand seemingly exists everywhere.

But within the gun world, Glocks are one of those guns that foster a conversation.

Whether you love Glocks or love to hate them, we’re going to take a look at some of the best models the Austrian company has to offer.

From concealed carry 9mm variants all the way to full-auto (oh yeah, they have one of those too), we’ll tell you which Glocks are worth your time, money, or are just plain fun.

Let’s get to it!

THE QUICK LIST

History Time!

We would be remiss if we didn’t at least touch on the history of Glock. Since it is a powerhouse brand, we feel we kinda owe it to you to explain how they got to where they are.

Glock began in the early 1960s, helmed by Gaston Glock.

At the time, pistols weren’t really on his mind. Instead, the company manufactured wood, steel, and plastic.

Fast forward to the groovy era of the 1970s, marking Glock’s entry to the world of weaponry — specifically, knives, grenades, and machine-gun belt links.

It didn’t take long for the wheels to start turning and by the 1980s, the Glock 17 emerged.

While it wasn’t the first polymer pistol to land on shelves (that honor belongs to HK VP70), it was the first one to be a big hit.

Before you know it, law enforcement was arming up with the plastic fantastic and its stellar 17-round magazine.

So, why has Glock maintained its stature?

Well, like it or not, the pistols are affordable and reliable. Two things that make both government agencies and civilians fall in love.

Since Glock’s emergence into the firearms community, the brand has continued to release new models based on the tried-and-true design.

Whether that’s upgrading generations or producing new models in different calibers (I’m looking at you G44), Glock isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

Best Glocks in All Calibers

With history behind, let’s get to what you really came for…the best Glock pistols.

Though 9mm is classic Glock, we’re going to cover all sorts of calibers in the company’s inventory.

1. Glock 17 (9mm)

Ok, so we had to kick this list off with the OG, the one that started it all…the Glock G17.

A full-size, 9mm model, the G17 is available in all multiple generations.

(Don’t know the difference between a Gen. 3 and a Gen. 5, head over to our Glock Generations article to get the low-down.)

Featuring a barrel length of 4.49-inches, the G17 measures 8.03-inches in total length. It weighs in at 32.28-ounces loaded with a standard 17-round magazine.

The G17 is the gold standard for most law enforcement and its reliability has made it a winner in the civilian market.

From carry to home defense, the G17’s larger style makes it a perfect pistol for self-defense and personal protection.

If full-size isn’t your thing, however, then you might consider moving to Glock’s midsize 9mm…

2. Glock 19 (9mm)

The Glock 19 is remarkably similar to the G17, but on a slightly smaller scale.

Still chambered in 9mm, the G19 measures 7.28-inches in total length. It sports a 4.02-inch barrel and weighs 30.16-ounces loaded.

This midsize model is versatile and easily transitions from the range to concealed carry with its double-stack design.

Again, it’s seen wide use in the law enforcement realm and, like most Glock products, is renowned for its ease of use and reliability.

Not to mention, the 9mm chambering means that, in non-ammo shortage scenarios, you should be able to easily train with it alongside its standard 15-round magazine.

The G19 also benefits from a wealth of aftermarket support so you can switch sights, triggers, and slides if you so choose.

Interested in learning even more, especially about the Gen 5 G19, then head over to our full review.

If you still need something smaller to conceal, maybe in hotter summer months, then let’s take a look at a single stack.

What do you think of the Glock 19? Rate it below.

3. Glock 43/43X (9mm)

Coming in with a subcompact style, the Glock 43 and newer 43X reduce the size of the platform with a single-stack design.

The 6-round capacity on the G43 brings with it a slimmer profile but still with a 9mm chambering.

Offering a 3.41-inch barrel and 6.26-inch overall length, the G43 weighs 20.64-ounces loaded.

Meanwhile, the G43X brings an ever-so-slightly larger build.

The G43X measures 6.50-inches overall but still uses that 3.41-inch barrel. Loaded, it weighs more than the standard G43 at 23.7-ounces.

You also get more rounds with the G43X — it features a 10-round capacity.

If you want a slim CCW pistol but have to have that sweet, sweet 9mm, the G43 and G43X are right up your alley.

For a more in-depth look at the G43, check our review here or just watch the video below.

If you prefer a little different oomph, however, you can knock it up to .45 ACP.

4. Glock 30SF (.45 ACP)

Some people love their .45 ACP and who are we to tell you you’re wrong. If .45 ACP is what you want, then the G30 SF is the Glock pistol for it.

Based on the G30 design, the G30 SF brings a subcompact appearance with a 10-round capacity.

How does Glock accomplish this? With a shortened frame and reduced grip dimensions, of course.

With a barrel length measuring 3.78-inches and an overall length of 6.97-inches, the SF weighs 33.69-ounces loaded.

The choice of many plain-clothed street cops and security personnel, the G30 SF fits naturally into a concealed carry or defensive setup.

Like all Glocks, it’s easy to operate and maintain.

Though the G30 SF makes for flawless concealed carry in .45 ACP, what about a full-size for home-defense or just fun at the range…

5. Glock 21 (.45 ACP)

Continuing the .45 ACP vibe, the G21 is the full-size package.

With a barrel length of 4.61-inches and a total length sitting at 8.07-inches, the G21 weighs 38.80-ounces loaded.

What do you get from the G21 that you don’t see with the G30 SF? More rounds!

The G21 boasts a standard capacity of 13-rounds.

We always think more is better, especially when at the range or during a defensive situation.

Which, is where this pistol excels.

It could easily tuck into a nightstand safe or tossed into a range bag.

If .45 ACP isn’t your cup of tea, though, Glock does offer a handful of .40 S&W models…

6. Glock 23 (.40 S&W)

The G23 comes chambered in .40 S&W with a magazine capacity of 13-rounds (though you can certainly spring for an aftermarket mag with up to 22-rounds).

Sporting a 4.02-inch barrel and total length of 7.28-inches, it weighs 34.36-ounces loaded.

It’s available in Gen. 4 or Gen. 5, but if you go for a Gen. 5 you’ll get the bonus of an nDLC finish, Glock Marksman barrel, and flared magwell.

Oh, and lefties will appreciate that ambidextrous slide stop lever too!

Using a compact build, the G23 is a nice middle area between full-size and subcompact.

And if you happen to love red dots and optics as much as we do, there’s even a MOS model that supports red dots.

If you love the .40-caliber, then you can’t get better than the G23.

Of course, while we’re talking alternative rounds, we might as well mention that Glock also has 10mm offerings…

7. Glock 20 (10mm)

There’s something cool about shooting 10mm. Whether you’re doing it on the hunt or at the range, it’s a fun round!

Luckily Glock has a few 10mm offerings up its sleeve, but our favorite is the G20.

With a capacity sitting at 15-rounds, the G20 is a full-size model with 8.07-inches in total length to its name.

The barrel measures 4.61-inches and total loaded weight is 39.86-ounces.

While the G20 only comes in the Gen. 4 variant, but Glock does offer an SF, or short frame, model.

You still get that 15-round capacity with the SF and most of the measurements are on par with the G20.

But the SF downsizes the receiver’s circumference at the rear for a little more ease when shooting.

Interested in a deep dive into this 10mm bad boy? Check out our full review here!

Of course, if 10mm is just a bit much in your book, you can move in the opposite direction to a Glock in .380 ACP.

8. Glock 42 (.380 ACP)

The G42 comes chambered in .380 ACP which means there’s little to no recoil while shooting.

This subcompact offers a barrel length of 3.25-inches with an overall length measuring 5.94-inches. Weight rests at 15.87-ounces loaded.

Glock’s G42 is an ultra-compact pistol designed for concealed carry. This is your summer gun!

The trade-off for such a small handgun, though, is capacity. In the case of the G42, that means 6 rounds. Probably want to stock up on the spare mags…

It keeps to Glock’s easy-to-shoot-and-maintain platform and brings that durability you’ve come to expect from the Glock brand.

If .380 ACP is still too much, you can always go with a cartridge most of us probably started on…a .22 LR.

9. Glock 44 (.22 LR)

Ok, so I know the G44 is controversial. I’m sorry to all the fanbois who wanted a Glock PCC but instead got a .22 LR. Don’t throw hate at me.

The G44 burst onto the scene with a .22 LR chambering. According to the company, they wanted to introduce a gun specifically for first-time gun owners and those that put in a lot of training reps at the range.

Mimicking the size of the G19, the G44 comes with a 4.02-inch barrel and an overall length of 7.28-inches. Loaded with its standard 10 rounds, it weighs 16.40-ounces.

While you most likely won’t be packing this in your IWB holster, the G44’s strength comes from the fact that you can easily plink with it.

Normally, .22 LR ammo is cheap and easy to find, making this gun a perfect training companion.

Not to mention, .22 LR has virtually no recoil so first-timers will find this comfortable and less intimidating to shoot.

To see the G44 in action, peep our video below or you can read our full review here!

10. G48 MOS (9mm)

A newer Glock model, the G48 series takes a slim approach and looks to shave down on size.

Chambered in 9mm, it measures pretty close to the G19 but adopts Glock’s Slimline build to reduce its width.

Where the regular, ole G19 offers a 1.26-inch width, the G48 MOS measures 1.10-inches.

The G48 brings a 4.17-inch barrel to the table with an overall length of 7.28-inches. It tips scales at 24.97-ounces loaded. And, it comes with a standard capacity of 10 rounds.

The MOS designator means that it uses Glock’s Modular Optic System. If you love red dots, this is a great pistol to toss an optic on — especially for concealed carry.

For more info on the G48 (and G43X) walk on over to our full review here.

Honorable Mentions

We couldn’t do an ultimate Glock list and leave off the very cool full-auto (yeah, you read that right) Glock 18.

The G18 is a BAMF 9mm full-auto Glock that most of us could just dream of owning. But for the lucky few, it’s a rad model that is peak Glock.

Also worth mentioning, if you’re a fan of .357 calibers and were a little bummed to not see the cartridges mentioned…well, let me put you on the G31 and G32.

Both are .357 SIG models! So, go get your fix!

Conclusion

Glock pistols set the standard for polymer, striker-fired pistols. With a range of calibers from .22 LR all the way to 10mm, you’re guaranteed to find a model that fits your needs.

What is your favorite Glock? Did it make our list? Let us know in the comments below. If you’ve already got a Glock but want to snazz it up, check out some of our other articles on how to Gucci your Gat: Best Glock Upgrades, Best Glock Sights, and Best Glock Triggers.

In the fall, as temperatures begin to drop, pumpkins and squash take all the glory, but let’s not forget about edible mushrooms, the ever-versatile bumper crop! While mushrooms can be found year-round, many varieties peak during the fall and winter. And with the average American consuming more than two pounds of edible mushrooms each year, we wanted to take a closer look at the top varieties.

Fun Fact: National Mushroom Day is October 15th each year!

Mushrooms are a staple ingredient in many of your favorite recipes across a variety of cultures. Out of approximately 14,000 known species of mushrooms, some are used for medicinal purposes, some can send you on a psychedelic journey, while others are delicious, healthy and edible additions to various cuisine. Even though mushrooms are grouped into the produce section at the grocery store, they technically aren’t plants. Mushrooms belong to the fungi kingdom and make their food by metabolizing dead or decaying matter. They reproduce by producing spores rather than seeds. Weird fact: mushrooms are actually more closely related in DNA to humans than to plants!

Edible Mushrooms – A Powerhouse of Nutrition

Edible Mushrooms pack a nutritional punch, making them a healthy addition to any diet. They’re high in fiber and low in fat and carbohydrates, while also being a significant source of vitamins A, C, B6, B12, and selenium. The Mushroom Council reminds us of this very unusual fact: mushrooms are the only veggie in the produce aisle that contains vitamin D!

Medicinal mushrooms have been used in Eastern medicine for thousands of years and are gaining popularity in other parts of the world. Often found in powder form, they can easily be added to smoothies, coffees, soups, etc. Different mushrooms have distinct health advantages: brain boosters, hormone balancers, antioxidant powerhouses, stress relievers, immune and energy boosters.

Long gone are the days where the lone button mushroom was the only grocery store mushroom variety available. While you can go foraging (safely!) for edible mushrooms, such as morels, or cultivate your own, you won’t need to look any further than your produce aisle for many varieties—from sweet to nutty-tasting, some even resemble the taste of lobster! Their versatility and meat-like texture (hello, portobello!) make them a popular culinary staple. Even the strangest-looking fungi—and they can get weird-looking—make a surprising and tasty addition to many meals.

Top 10 Mushroom Varieties To Try

Check out this list for a quick run-down of the more common edible mushrooms and how to include them in your cooking.

1. Button (White)

Ninety percent of mushrooms eaten are of this variety, and can easily be found at your local grocery store. With less culinary flair than the more exotic-looking mushrooms on the market, the simple button mushroom is anything but boring. This mild-tasting variety is easy to cook and adapts to the flavors of any dish. They can be eaten raw or cooked and are a popular addition to soups, stir-frys, salad, and or topped on pizzas. The easiest way to cook them is to simply saute them with a little oil.

Also called: table mushroom, common mushroom, white mushroom, or champignon de Paris.

2. Cremini (Italian Brown)

Cremini mushrooms are the brown strain cousin to the white button mushroom, just with darker, firmer, and more flavorful flesh of the white button mushroom. They are simply baby portobellos. While they have a more complex taste than the white button, the two mushrooms can be used interchangeably, and both are often widely used in savory and spicy dishes.

Also called: Italian mushroom, brown mushroom, baby portobello, or baby bella.

3. Portobello

The portobello mushroom is basically just a fully mature cremini. These dense and rich mushrooms are a staple in Italian cooking and their texture and taste make portobello an excellent meat replacement. Want a low-carb bread option? Portobello’s flat caps work well for a bun substitute. Their meaty texture also holds up well for grilling and stuffing.

Also called: portabello, portabella, Roman mushroom, field mushroom, or cappaellone.

4. Shiitake (Forest or Oak)

Shiitake mushrooms are native to East Asia, with 83% of them grown in Japan. In Japanese, shiitake means “oak fungus” where they can be found. They don an umbrella-shaped brown cap, which curl under slightly. Fresh shiitakes have a light woodsy flavor and aroma, while their dried version has a more intense umami flavor (the fifth taste, which is described as savory or meaty). You can cook with both fresh and dried shitake, however, the dried ones are more widely used. Shiitake mushrooms are low in calories, while also offering many vitamins, minerals, and health-promoting compounds to protect against cancer and inflammation and to boost your immune system. They have long been used in traditional Eastern medicine for boosting health and longevity.

Shiitake mushrooms’ distinct umami flavor is a great addition to vegetarian dishes. Often sold dried, they simply need to be soaked in hot water to soften before cooking. Saute shiitakes with greens and serve with a poached egg; add them to pasta dishes or stir-fries; make a flavorful soup, or roast them up for a crispy snack.

Also called: black forest, black winter, brown oak, Chinese black.

5. Oyster

Oyster mushrooms can be found growing on the sides of trees in the wild, however, most of these whitish and thin, fan-shaped mushrooms that you find in stores or on menus are most likely cultivated. First cultivated during World War I as a ration food, Oyster mushrooms carry a delicate aroma and subtle, savory anise flavor and are prized in many Japanese and Chinese dishes, such as soups, sauces, and stir-fries. More expensive than white button mushrooms, but less so than rarer mushrooms, such as morels, oysters require little prep work and can be eaten whole or chopped. While they can be eaten raw, cooking oyster mushrooms brings out their delicate flavor and gives it a unique velvety texture, making them the perfect addition to any barbeque (they are delicious marinated, and grilled).

Also called, tree oyster, angel’s wings, and abalone mushroom.

6. Porcini

One of the most prized mushrooms, porcini mushrooms are desired for their smooth texture and aromatic, woodsy flavor. They’re widely used in Italy and France and are referred to as cepes. Fresh porcini are beloved by gourmet chefs and are often sautéed and served as a side dish or added to risottos and pasta dishes. Fresh varieties are harder to come by in the United States, but dried ones can be restored by soaking them in hot water. Dried porcinis add rich flavor to broths and stews.

Also called: cepe, bolete, king bolete, Borowik, Polish mushroom.

7. Morel

One of the most prized edible mushrooms in the world, the morel’s honeycomb-shaped cap is distinct in appearance. Morel mushrooms are difficult to cultivate, so most morels served up in restaurants are harvested in the springtime from the wild—creating a multi-million dollar enterprise. Their rich flavor complements a wide range of dishes, and can often be found alongside meats or stuffed inside ravioli. This is one mushroom species that can’t be eaten raw—it needs to be cooked to neutralize its naturally occurring toxins. Read how to spot their poisonous lookalikes!

Also called: morchella.

8. Enoki (Snow Puff)

Enoki mushrooms feature distinct small, shiny white caps attached to thin stems. The wild types tend to be darker and shorter than their cultivated counterparts. Their crunch makes them a good raw option to top on salads. This species also cooks up well, making them a great addition to sauces, stir-fries, and soups.

Also called: Enokitake, futu, winter mushrooms, and winter fungus.

9. Chanterelle (Girolle)

This flashy yellow, trumpet-shaped mushroom is known for its unique peppery and fruity flavor. The chanterelle is difficult to cultivate, making it one of the most popular mushrooms picked in the wild. Considered a higher delicacy mushroom, cooking this fungus with fat, such as butter and cream, draws out its rich flavor, making it a great addition to sauces, soups, and soufflés.

Also called: Egg mushroom, Golden or yellow chanterelle, pfifferling.

10. Maitake

Resembling a head of cabbage with delicate, feathered edges, the maitake mushroom can be cultivated or found in the wild. The maitake mushroom grows at the base of trees and is native to North America, Europe, and China. It has been consumed for centuries in China and Japan; maitake means “dancing mushroom” in Japanese. Maitake can be found in-store or farmer’s markets in overlapping clusters, resembling a bird’s plumage. Thanks to its bird-like appearance, it is known as “hen-of-the-woods.” This earthy, peppery flavored mushroom is best served cooked with savory and salty flavors. Delicious in soups, stews, pasta dishes, ramen, sauces, and saute. It can also be found in a dietary form for your regular health regimen.

Also called: Hen-of-the-Wood, sheepshead mushroom, ram’s head, dancing mushroom.

Selecting Mushrooms

Whether foraging or purchasing cultivated mushrooms, select mushrooms that are firm, with a smooth appearance, void of any noticeable soft spots. The surface should be dry, but not dried out, and never moist or slimy. Once you get your mushrooms home, gently remove any excess dirt before storing but don’t wash them until you’re ready to eat them. And always rinse them whole, before slicing, as the exposed flesh will absorb water like a sponge.

Storing Mushrooms

Due to mushrooms’ high moisture content, they are very perishable. Store them in a container with good airflow to maximize air circulation without drying out the mushrooms. Wrap mushrooms in a paper towel and place them in an opened plastic or paper bag. Mushrooms should last in the fridge for a few days if properly stored. They can also be frozen or dried to increase shelf life.

Which Is Your Favorite Mushroom?

Which is your favorite? Not a fan? Tell us in the comments below!