Far too many bowhunters target practice the exact same way every time. I don’t know about their shots on game but I know that mine rarely involve standing flat-footed at exactly 20 yards while repetitively taking aim at the same spot. This type of shooting has its time, and that time happened weeks ago.

At this point of the summer, with antelope season a mere month away in many states and bigger game opportunities not far behind that, it’s time to get creative with your practice sessions. How you challenge yourself throughout the summer will make you a better shot come fall, I promise.

And it all starts with simple variations on the practice style I knocked just a few sentences ago. It really doesn’t take much to try to get better, but it takes some effort. So, take note of the following 10 steps to make yourself a more lethal shot in the deer or elk woods.

Representative Species

This is an easy one, but it makes sense. If you’ve got a bear hunt planned, or perhaps cashed in your 401K and decided to try your hand at mountain goats, it only makes sense to invest in a 3D target that represents the species you plan to hunt.

I realize this isn’t realistic for some folks because of cost; however, even if you never plan to hunt anything other than backyard whitetails you should still purchase a whitetail target. There is something different about shooting at a 3D target versus a typical block-style target, and it will better prepare you for the real thing.

Odd Angles

Bowhunting is a game of angles, which is obvious if you’ve ever hunted around a newbie to the sport. Neophytes often don’t understand how point-of-impact should change every time a deer or other critter moves. Realizing a true shot angle is often the difference between a carcass-less blood trail and a grip-and-grin photo.

Because of this, take your 3D target and shoot at it from multiple angles. Pay attention to how your point-of-aim differs when dealing with anything other than a broadside shot. Better yet, watch every live deer you can and think about how their vitals are positioned and where you would have to shoot to take them out. This kind of practice is invaluable.

Low Light

It’s easy to step outside after work and fling a couple of dozen arrows when the light is perfect. Unfortunately, unless you’re hunting low- or no-pressure game animals, it’s not likely that you’ll get tons of high light shooting opportunities.

Instead, the deer you wait diligently for are far more likely to show up at dawn and dusk. Shots in the gloaming are extremely common; therefore, you should make it a point to practice during those times. You’ll not only gain a better understanding of how accurate you truly are, but how far you can ethically push it as shooting light wanes.

Piggybacking on the low light target shooting sessions is the reality that you should try to shoot in all possible weather conditions. Windy conditions are pretty easy to come by on the target range and in the deer stand, and you need to know where your effective range sits when the wind is really huckin’.

All Weather

It’s also a good idea to shoot in the rain, extreme heat, or my personal favorite as a Minnesota native – cold. Being truly cold does weird things to bows and shooters’ muscles.

I prefer to see if anything is going to go wrong while I’m shooting in my backyard as opposed to sitting on a late-season food source watching my last chance to fill a tag feed his way toward me.

Fully Clothed

I’ll admit I wear shorts and a t-shirt most of the time I target shoot during the summer. However, as the season closes in and I’m getting ready to actually hunt, I always shoot a few sessions with my entire setup on. This goes for an early season antelope hunt and the outfit I’ll wear, or my opening bell whitetail suit complete with a safety harness. The more realism you can add to the mix, the better.

I spent a harrowing minute of my life on a whitetail hunt one time trying to find my anchor point at full draw while fighting a new face mask. Suffice it to say, I choked the shot in a fit of panic and vowed to avoid that situation at all costs.

Long Range

There has been a pretty good push in the last few years concerning longer-range shooting. Whether you agree with taking long shots at game animals or abhor it, you should consider long-range practice sessions for two reasons. The first is that a lot of time shooting at 50 to 100 yards will make you a much deadlier shot at 20.

The second is that you never know when you’ll botch a close-range shot and get a redemption shot at a gut- or liver-shot buck at three times the original shot distance. That has happened to me twice in my bowhunting career, and both times I made good on the follow-up. That’s incentive enough for me to keep pushing my target shooting distance to the max.

Elevated Shots

If you’re a whitetail hunter and primarily sit in treestands, you owe it to yourself to shoot from an elevated position. This doesn’t mean that you have to set up a backyard stand to shoot from, although if you can, do it.

Otherwise, find a deck that you can safely shoot from and work on your elevated game. This solidifies the necessity of bending at the waist and fosters confidence in shooting that differs greatly from flat-footed, even ground practice.

Real Broadheads

While you’re trying to find ways to take your practice to the next level, don’t forget to shoot real broadheads if at all possible. I say this because some companies provide practice heads, which aren’t a bad idea but don’t necessarily fly the same way as an actual hunting head. Because of this, I take a broadhead from a package and color the blades black.

That becomes my practice head, and although it sucks to sandbag a $15 broadhead, I take comfort knowing that my arrows will fly perfect with an actual broadhead. This goes for both fixed-blade and mechanical broadhead shooters, because even if a company promises field-tip accuracy, that doesn’t make it so.

Small Targets/Consequence Shots

It’s easy to shoot at a great big target because the odds of missing completely are pretty slim (hopefully!). As you pare down the size of your target, you increase the odds that you might miss.

This can lead people to lose their cool and actually miss, which is no different than when buck fever kicks in as an actual buck walks toward your stand. Taking long shots at small targets will teach you to aim small and miss small, which is something we should all strive for in the field.

Coached Shooting

Okay, this isn’t exactly the same as changing up your shooting routine but it is beneficial. If you want to be a better shot, find someone who is a better shot to help you. They can watch your form for flaws from your stance to your release and evaluate your overall shot execution.

If they know what they’re doing, they’ll be able to offer tips on how to shore up your game and be a better shot. If you take their advice and follow it through, you’ll hit more bulls-eyes the summer and more beating hearts in the fall.

There are an incredible number of broadheads on the market today, so choosing the best mechanical broadhead for your particular setup can be a daunting task.

My hope is that this article will help you narrow down your choices to a manageable number so that you can make a final decision based on your needs and the information at hand.

For hunting whitetail deer, our favorite is the G5 Deadmeat. If you prefer a more streamline 2-blade setup, then the Rage Hypodermic is going to be hard to beat.

If you’re looking specifically for a crossbow broadhead, we have a whole other article for that.

The G5 Deadmeat is our choice for the overall best mechanical broadhead. I am a big fan of G5 Outdoors and their American-made products.

The G5 checks all the boxes that make up a great expandable broadhead: it’s solid steel, features three blades with a 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter for maximum damage, and the Snap lock system keeps the blades in place to prevent pre-deployment.

The blades are rear-deploying, which we feel is a better design because they lose less energy during deployment, and the risk of deflection is less than with forward deploying blades.

In addition to its solid design, we like that the Deadmeat is offered in both 100 and 125 grains for those who may want a heavier setup. The three-pack of broadheads includes a Ballistic Match Point practice tip that matches the flight of the Deadmeat for easy practice without damaging your hunting broadheads.

If you want a solid expandable broadhead that hits hard and creates great blood trails, we highly recommend the G5 Deadmeat!

No one sells more broadheads annually than Rage, and I doubt any on the market kills more deer. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re the best, but they have done a great job of marketing over the years.

Rage aren’t my favorite, but if I was going to shoot one it would be the standard two-blade Hypodermic.

The chisel tip, combined with the 2-inch cutting diameter should result in decent penetration, plenty of damage, and a short blood trail.

The rear deploying blades should minimize energy loss, and the improved shock collar technology ensures the blades stay in place until impact. We also like that this model Rage has a steel ferrule for maximum strength and durability.

The icing on the cake with these Rage broadheads is that you can often find them at a great price on Amazon. And despite what you may have heard, Rage broadheads are American-made.

I have personally used and killed deer with NAP Killzones. I really can’t say anything negative about them, other than I wished the long, tapered ferrule was steel rather than aluminum.

The Killzones are similar to the Rage discussed above in that they are rear deploying and feature a 2-inch cutting diameter.

What I like about the Killzone is that is features a spring clip design for blade deployment that eliminates the need for any rubber bands, clips or retainers. I also like the hardened trophy tip designed to split bone and get maximum penetration.

If you’re looking for a 2-blade mechanical broadhead with a decent cutting diameter, then the NAP Killzone may be the perfect option.

If it weren’t for the aluminum ferrule, we probably would have designated them as the Best Two Blade Mechanical Broadhead, but for now, the Rage Hypodermic gets that nod. You won’t go wrong with either, though.

While the G5 Deadmeat is our overall pick for best mechanical broadhead, their Megameat is a great option as well.

The Megameat features the same three-blade design, all steel construction, and Snap lock construction to keep the blades in place. The main difference is the larger 2-inch cutting diameter.

The reason we chose the Deadmeat over the Megameat is our belief that a 1.5-inch cutting diameter is ideal for a three-blade broadhead.

If you prefer a larger cutting diameter and have a bow setup that will give you a pass-thru every time, then the Megameat may be the perfect option for you. One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong with a G5 product.

The Rage 2-Blade Chisel Tip is the second Rage expandable broadhead on our list, and the most popular option in the Rage’s extensive lineup of broadheads.

Like the Hypodermic, the Chisel Tip SC is 100 grain and features a 2-inch cutting diameter. The main difference is in the tip.

The Hypodermic has a longer, tapered tip that is part of the overall one-piece steel ferrule. The Chisel Tip has a unique, twisted chisel tip that is made for breaking through bone.

The reason we ranked this one below the Hypodermic is due to the weaker aluminum ferrule. Overall, though, this is still a great option.

Swhacker mechanical broadheads have a unique blade design with two separate cutting edges.

The smaller wing blades are designed to cut the hide and first set of ribs, with the idea that the main blades will still be razor-sharp once they deploy in the body cavity for maximum damage to internal organs.

In my mind, two weak points on the Swhacker are the aluminum ferrule and the rubber bands used to hold the blades closed in flight. However, I do like the fact that there is little chance of the blades not deploying due to the wing blade design.

And while they may not be my favorite broadhead, it’s hard to argue with a 4.7 out of 5 rating on Amazon. I also have mad respect for Levi Morgan as an archer and a bowhunter, and he is a big believer in Swhacker broadheads.

Our Top 3

Pros and Cons of Expandable Broadheads

Choosing the Perfect Broadhead

All the broadheads discussed above are well known, highly rated, and should fly like your field points if your bow is properly tuned. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

I’ve shot all of them myself with good results, although I now prefer fixed blade broadheads for deer.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your choice among these options, here are the most important features to consider:

Broadhead Weight

Most mechanical broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose.

If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

Even if you like a heavier setup, you can always use a 100 grain mechanical and add weight with a heavier brass insert or insert weight.

Two Blade vs Three Blade Broadheads

In your quest to find the perfect option, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two or three blade broadhead.

First off, let me say that either of those options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option.

A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, and/or enough poundage on your bow, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a broadhead. Similar to the blade number discussion above, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail.

A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail.

Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch maximum cutting diameter from a mechanical broadhead.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best mechanical broadhead can be challenging. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement.

That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the options listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best mechanical broadhead for your specific needs.

ZipLine Medical says anyone can use its ZipStitch device for wound closure, and it doesn’t need to be prescribed by a doctor

ZipStitch says its device is 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring (Credit: YouTube/ZipStitch)

There’s an emphasis in many industries on easy-to-use, cheap alternatives to established products — and healthcare is certainly one of them. Jamie Bell takes a look at ZipStitch — a hospital-grade wound closure device that anyone can use to treat small cuts in seconds.

Whether it’s at home chopping vegetables, playing sports with friends, or cycling to work, minor cuts and flesh wounds can happen just about anywhere in day-to-day life.

Bigger, deeper wounds will often require a trip to the emergency room, and ultimately stitches — a painful, invasive procedure.

In the US, getting stitches is also expensive for anyone without health insurance. Cost range from $200 to as much as $3,000 in some cases.

However, any medium-sized or smaller cut is usually treated outside the healthcare setting using an adhesive bandage or plaster.

While these dressings can stop a small amount of bleeding — and protect against infection — they do little to close the wound and speed up the healing process.

US tissue-repair device company ZipLine Medical has developed a tool called ZipStitch, which combines the convenience of a plaster with many of the benefits provided by having a cut stitched by a doctor.

ZipStitch: The do-it-yourself wound closure device

ZipStitch is a small, adhesive device that is designed to be placed over cuts less than 4mm in width.

Once it is stuck down, the user simply pulls each of the four miniature straps on the device, tightening them and closing the break in the skin.

Because it is so small and light, ZipLine Medical believes its product is ideal for everyday first-aid kits, and can be useful for someone to have with them during a range of outdoor activities where minor injuries can often occur, including cycling, hiking or camping.

The company warns, however, that the wound must be cleaned properly and allowed to dry before application.

Not only does this reduce the risk of infection, but it ensures the device will stick to the skin and remain in place.

It is sold online for $29.99 as part of a pack including gauze pads to stop bleeding, alcohol wipes to clean wounds, and bandage to cover and protect the cut once ZipStitch has been applied.

The device is supposedly 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring.

Although it can only be used to close wounds up to 1.5 inches in length. ZipLine Medical recommends seeking stitches in hospital to close larger cuts.

Unlike conventional sutures, ZipStitch is also non-invasive, which can reduce the chances of bacteria causing infection.

The company says it provides better protection than butterfly bandages and other adhesive plasters, repairing cuts faster and decreasing the likelihood of scarring.

Hospital-grade Zip technology

The device uses ZipLine Medical’s own Zip technology, which has been used by more than 500,000 people in the past five years, and by hospitals in 30 countries.

The California-based company says it delivers faster and less painful wound closure than established methods such as stitches or staples — with 95% of its patients saying they prefer Zip technology to these treatments.

Having proven to be safe and effective in several clinical trials, it gained FDA approval in 2017.

As well as treating minor, everyday injuries, Zip technology has been used to close wounds left by operations including knee and shoulder replacements — which, the company says, has resulted in reduced scarring compared with conventional stitches.

When used to close wounds following these procedures, a longer strip of the ZipStitch device is used to precisely align the edges of the incision.

The Zip structure also functions as a cage to offer extra protection from anything that might cause pain or reopen the cut.

Removing the ZipStitch can be done at home by the patient in some cases, and ZipLine Medical says this is as simple as pulling off a Band-Aid.

It is also less painful than removing stitches or staples, and leaves no holes in the skin.

As well as benefits for patients, the company claims the speed at which ZipStitch works can decrease healthcare costs and improve efficiency of patient care by reducing the number of follow-up appointments.

How ZipStitch compares to butterfly bandages and other wound closure devices

The main alternative to ZipStitch is the butterfly bandage — an adhesive strip designed to close small wounds by pulling the skin together.

These outperform ordinary plasters and are also small and light.

However, butterfly bandages cover a much smaller area than the ZipStitch device, meaning only cuts that are very short in length can be closed effectively.

There are several other methods for closing wounds without traditional stitches — German healthcare company McKesson uses a series of adhesive strips to do this.

Clozex Medical has developed a wound closure device that comes in several different lengths to treat a variety of cut sizes, and to cope with curvatures and raised areas on the skin.

Skin glue or “liquid stitches” can also be used to non-invasively hold the edges of a cut together. It can also be applied in addition to other wound closure methods like traditional stitches or adhesive bandages.

These other products are not do-it-yourself solutions, and require a healthcare professional to administer them.

When it comes to the debate of longbow versus recurve, there are several factors to consider.

The longbow is traditional, requiring skill and strength for its longer draw length, while the recurve bow is more compact and versatile, with a shorter draw length but still offering speed and accuracy.

Longbows lack those swept tips, but their limbs bend gracefully throughout the bow’s length. Recurve bows draw more smoothly, in general, but bow designs play significant roles in how they draw.

Well-designed longbows can be incredibly smooth, especially if their length matches the archer’s draw length. Taller archers, for example, find longer bows smoother to draw than shorter bows. If you have to buy between the two, shoot some recurves and longbows at an archery shop, and choose the one that puts the biggest smile on your face.

Longbow

The longbow, with its simple design and long limbs, has a rich historical background and offers a sense of traditional archery. It requires a higher level of skill and strength to shoot effectively, but its longer draw length can deliver impressive power and accuracy. Longbows are ideal for

• Casual shooting
• Target shooting
• Field shooting
• 3d archery
• Hunting

Recurve

The recurve bow, with its curved limbs, provides a more compact and maneuverable option. It is favored by many modern archers due to its versatility and ease of use. The recurve bow’s shorter draw length can still generate considerable speed and accuracy, making it popular for target shooting and competitive archery.

A recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than the equivalent straight-limbed bow, giving a greater amount of energy and speed to the arrow. this is currently the only bow type allowed in the Olympic games.

Some advantages are as follows:

• Recurves offer great power, speed, and accuracy over longbows.
• Recurve bows retain speed/power at lighter draw weights, which can be increased by purchasing new limbs
• Recurves can be broken down, making them easy to store and transport.
• Recurve bows are very versatile as they’re an accepted bow type in many different archery disciplines.
• Recurves can be used for hunting because of the increased speed/power.

Recurve vs Longbow for Beginners

When choosing between a recurve bow and a longbow for beginners, consider versatility and tradition. Recurve bows offer adaptability and are versatile for various archery styles, while longbows have a classic charm and a steeper learning curve due to their traditional design

Range

In general, recurve bows have a slightly longer effective range than longbows, usually up to 60-70 yards due to their design allowing for better energy storage and transfer.

Longbows, while still capable, typically have a slightly shorter range of around 50-60 yards.

Archer’s skill also plays a significant role in range and accuracy.

Accuracy

When it comes to longbow vs recurve accuracy, recurves are generally more accurate but only when an archer uses the proper form.

The synthetic materials of recurve allow economic, predictable manufacture for consistent performance.

The greater mass of a modern bow is in itself an aid to stability, and therefore accuracy.

Arrow Speed

In terms of arrow velocity, recurve bows typically have a slight advantage over longbows due to their design, allowing for more energy storage and faster arrow speeds.

For Hunting

When deciding between a recurve bow and a longbow for hunting, the choice hinges on your hunting style and personal preferences.

Recurve bows offer versatility, adjustability, and good arrow speed, making them suitable for various game and hunting scenarios, while longbows excel in stealth and offer a traditional hunting experience, albeit requiring more skill for accuracy due to their longer draw length.

Ultimately, the decision should align with your hunting approach and comfort with each bow’s characteristics, ensuring a successful and enjoyable hunting experience.

Material

The traditional construction of a longbow consists of drying the yew wood for 1 to 2 years, then slowly working the wood into shape, with the entire process taking up to four years. The bow stave is shaped to have a D cross-section.

The recurve consists of limbs and a riser (the center section of the bow). The limbs are usually made from multiple layers of fiberglass, carbon, and/or wood on a core of carbon foam or wood. The riser is generally separate and is constructed from wood, carbon, aluminum alloy, or magnesium alloy.

Bow Noise

A bow that shoots quietly is a top feature for many of today’s archers. When it comes to generating bow noise, vibrations and the twang of the bowstring are responsible. Longbows are quieter than recurves because the string doesn’t hit the limbs as much, in turn resulting in less string slap.

String

Longbow strings are made of hemp, flax, or silk, and attached to the wood via horn “nocks” that fit onto the end of the bow. Modern synthetic materials are now commonly also used for strings in recurve. The cord of the recurve attaches to both limb tips and transforms stored energy from the limbs into kinetic energy in the arrow

Smoothness

Recurves generally have a smoother draw when compared to longbows. However, a longbow can also be smooth if the length of the bow matches the archer’s draw length. Most archers want a smooth drawing bow so they choose to recurve.

Size and Mobility

Recurves are generally smaller than longbows. Longbows range in size from 5 ½ feet to 6 feet or more. While there are a few takedown longbow options available, the majority of longbows don’t offer this option.

Portability

Recurve easily break into smaller pieces to transport them from one place to another. Takedown longbows are very popular because recurve is so easy to transport.

Adjustability

Recurves have more tuning options, making them much more versatile. Recurve bows allow the use of arrow rest, sights, stabilizers, and some bows allow you to swap out different limbs. While the longbow lacks these characteristics.

Modern Use

No English longbows survive from the period when the longbow was dominant (c. 1250-1450), probably because bows became weaker, broke, and were replaced rather than being handed down through generations.

The modern recurve is the only form of bow permitted in the Olympics (though the compound bow is permitted in some categories at the Paralympic Games) and is the most widely used by European and Asian sporting archers.

Hunting Performance

Some modern hunting recurves are one-piece bows. Hunters often prefer one-piece bows over take-down bows, because the limb pockets on take-down bows can make unwanted noise while drawing.

Even though both bow types work well for hunting, recurves tend to generate more power. Speed and power are important in hunting situations for accuracy and humane reasons. Due to the less accuracy and less power longbow is very rarely used in hunting.

Nostalgia

Longbows have a long history and were the original bow design. This is the bow type for archers who enjoy the historical appeal of medieval archery. While longbows may have been the original bow design, there’s no need to rule out recurve bows.

Availability

Availability of longbow vs recurve. Recurves are now considered to be the modern standard as this bow type provides archers with many options. This means you can expect to see a much larger selection of recurve bows available for purchase vs longbows.

If you’re a competitive archer who wants to participate in tournaments, clubs, and/or the Olympics, choosing a recurve is the right bow choice for you.

Social Importance

The importance of the longbow in English culture can be seen in the legends of Robin Hood, which increasingly depicted him as a master archer, and also in the “Song of the Bow”, a poem from The White Company by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Vandal Savage showed talents with a composite recurve bow on the Young Justice episode Evolution.

CONCLUSION

Now that we’ve covered the similarities and differences between recurves and longbows, you should have a better idea of what is right for you. Since each bow type comes with its unique benefits, you must decide which one will best support your style of shooting. You can read here is a recurve bow better than a longbow?

The lightweight and quiet longbows make for a basic, fun way to try archery. While the high performance, small size, and large availability of recurve bows help provide more accuracy and precision.

Lion’s mane is the common name given to a number of mushrooms in the Hercium genus, namely H. erinaceus, H. americanum and H. coralloides. All three species are edible and taste slightly similar to shellfish. They also grow in similar habitats around the world. So, from a cultivation and culinary perspective, they can almost be considered as interchangeable. However many mycologists consider H. erinaceus to be the true lion’s mane mushroom, so this article will mostly focus mostly on this species.

What is Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

H. erinaceus was first documented in 1797 by French physician and botanist, Jean Baptiste François Pierre Bulliard, who named the fungus after the Latin name for hedgehog. In most languages, the common name usually makes some reference to the many beautiful long white spines that dangle below the fruiting body and release the mushroom’s spores. The Japanese name Yamabushitake (mountain priest mushroom) refers to the pom poms found on the clothing of solitary Buddist mountain priests. In Chinese, the mushroom is often referred to as Shishigashira, which translates to lion’s head.

Lion’s mane is found mostly in the northern hemisphere, most commonly in North America, Europe, Japan, and China. The mycelium grows on both dead and living hardwood trees, mostly on old oak or beech, where it produces mushrooms from late summer to early fall (though this may extend into winter and spring in warmer regions). Wherever it grows, lion’s mane may not fruit reliably every year, and its rarity in some countries has led to it becoming legally protected from harvesting, to encourage its growth.

As well as being delicious, lion’s mane also contains a biochemical cocktail of compounds that are attracting emerging interest from the medical community. These include β-glucans, hericenones, and erinacines, which are compounds of therapeutic interest for diseases like dementia, diabetes, and cancer, as well as conditions like inflammation and skin aging.

Read: Why You Should Grow Your Own Mushrooms

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushroom

Like many other fungi, lion’s mane mycelium easily grows on cereal grains like rye, wheat, and millet. Though lion’s mane mushrooms rapidly emerge from colonized grain, it’s predominantly a wood-loving fungus, so a bulk substrate with a high proportion of wood can really improve yields. Supplementing woody bulk substrate bags with extra nutrients, like bran or soybean hulls, can also help boost your crop.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growth Stages

Despite its unusual appearance, Lion’s Mane follows a similar growth cycle to most commonly cultivated mushrooms. Spores released from mature mushrooms germinate into mycelium, which spreads out through the substrate in its search for nutrients. Once the available substrate runs out and environmental conditions are suitable, the mycelium bunches up in small clumps to form hyphal knots, followed by denser clumps of fungal tissue called primordia, which then go on to turn into the fruiting body—or what most people call mushrooms. As these mushrooms mature, they release the spores and the cycle begins again.Lion’s mane can be white, pink, yellow, or brown depending on different growth and environmental factors. While a white color is most common, pink lion’s mane tends to grow at lower temperatures or when the mushrooms are exposed to direct sunlight. Mushrooms can turn brown or yellow as they become overripe, or if the humidity drops over the fruiting period.

Read: The 5 Best Mushroom Grow Kits for Growing Easily at Home

Lion’s Mane Mushroom Grow Kit

Cultivators face unique challenges when growing lion’s mane mushrooms. Lion’s mane has high moisture content and is a very delicate mushroom, particularly compared to other gourmet species like oysters, shiitake, or hen of the woods. As such, lion’s mane is much harder to find at your local grocers or farmers’ market; they are easily damaged in transit from farm to table. So, growing lion’s mane yourself may be the best way to access high-quality, delicious mushrooms for home cooking or do-it-yourself herbal supplements.

Basic Materials:

• Lion’s mane spore- or liquid culture syringe
• Sterile grain jars
• Sterile bulk substrate bags of hardwood sawdust, up to 50% supplemented by dry weight with bran or soybean hulls
• Still air box
• Fruiting chamber

Unlike other homegrown mushroom species such as oysters or Psilocybe cubensis, lion’s mane prefers wood-based bulk substrates such as hardwood sawdust, which can be supplemented with additional nutrients like wheat bran or soya hulls. This supplemented substrate has a high nutrient content and lacks the beneficial bacteria found in coir or manure, so must be sterilized to prevent contamination.

Lion’s mane is easily grown indoors, using the standard equipment you’d use for any home mushroom grow. If you live in an area that’s suitable for outdoor mushroom growing, lion’s mane can also be grown in a damp, shady spot in your garden.

Growing Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors

Growing lion’s mane indoors follows many of the same steps of any typical mushroom grow. Yet, prior to starting, there is one important factor to note: Cleanliness is paramount when growing lion’s mane mushrooms indoors. Sterilizing your equipment and your workspace prior to spawning and fruiting mushrooms will help keep you and your mushrooms healthy as you cultivate. We cover sterilization in more detail in our How to Grow Mushrooms Course. Nevertheless, here are the basic steps to growing lion’s mane indoors:

Step 1 – Inoculation: Sterile grain jars are inoculated with spores or liquid culture, inside a still air box to minimize the risk of contamination.

Step 2 – Incubation: The grain jars are then incubated until filled with wispy white lion’s mane mycelium. Using a still air box, a small amount of colonized grain is then added to each sterile bulk substrate bag, before sealing and incubating once more.

Step 3 – Fruiting: Once your bags are colonized you can punch a few small holes in each one, then put them in your fruiting chamber (such as a shotgun fruiting chamber or Martha closet).

If you get your temperature, humidity, and fresh air exchange right, you can expect to be harvesting tasty fresh lion’s mane about a month after inoculation.

Growing Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Outdoors

If you live in an area where lion’s mane grows naturally, then an outdoor grow might be a good choice, especially if you have limited space indoors. When choosing a species to grow, do some research into which species grow most abundantly in your local area. If H. erinaceus doesn’t grow near where you live, check for similar edible species such as H. americanum or H. coralloides instead.

It is worth noting that due to its rarity, lion’s mane is a protected species in some regions of the world, with specific laws that may prevent harvesting. While it’s normally recommended that you source mycelial cultures from locally abundant species, legal restrictions on picking may make cloning wild specimens difficult. Such restrictions may not extend to spore collection, however, so you may be able to collect spores from wild specimens and purify cultures on agar (or buy from a trusted vendor who has done the same).

To grow lion’s mane outside, simply follow the same indoor growing process above, but place your bulk substrates outdoors when it’s ready to fruit. A humid and shady spot in your garden is perfect, though a bit of extra misting from a spray bottle will help encourage mushroom growth during dry spells.

Growing Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs

As a wood-loving edible species, lion’s mane can also be grown on hardwood logs from trees like beech, maple, or oak. Growing on logs can take a little extra time and effort, but the results can be very rewarding. It’s best to use freshly cut logs, no older than about three months, to ensure they’re not too dry. If you live in an area where lion’s mane grows natively, it’s best to inoculate your logs during the wetter seasons of autumn and winter to give your logs plenty of moisture to help out the growing mycelium.

You’ll need:

• A selection of hardwood logs, cut to manageable sizes
• Hardwood dowels colonized with lion’s mane mycelium, or colonized sawdust spawn and log inoculation tool
• A drill and drill bit the same size as your dowels or inoculation tool
• Food grade wax, such as beeswax or soya wax
• Paintbrush or cotton dauber

Step 1 – Inoculation: Drill a series of holes arounda few inches apart, evenly across each log. Hammer in your colonized hardwood dowels, or fill each hole with sawdust spawn using your inoculation tool. Melt your wax (in an old tin can or crock pot), then paint each hole to seal it from bugs. Paint each cut end of the log with wax to keep in the moisture.

Step 2 – Incubation: Stack your logs somewhere shady, cool and damp to allow the mycelium to run through the wood. This can take up to a year or two, and it’s important to keep your logs hydrated throughout dry spells.

Step 3 – Fruiting: It can take a year or two for logs to start fruiting, depending on a range of environmental factors. Logs can either be left in place to begin fruiting, or stacked in ways to increase airflow and make harvesting easier. If you have a few logs you can try different configurations to see what works best, but keep them out of direct sunlight and well-watered to increase the chances of a bumper crop.

When to Pick Lion’s Mane Mushroom

Most growers like to pick lion’s mane while it’s still white and the teeth have become visible; they look like tight little pom-poms or clouds from a distance. If you leave lion’s mane mushrooms too long, they can start to turn golden brown and take on a shaggy appearance. This change in color and appearance indicates a lower quality, in terms of both taste and texture.

How to Harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom

Lion’s mane can be easily harvested with a sharp knife, by cutting the mushroom off at the base, where it first emerged from the substrate. After harvesting, handle them carefully as they can bruise and begin to look less appealing to eat. However, if you do knock these mushrooms around a bit, don’t worry—they’re still perfectly safe to eat.

One of the most appealing new Tikkas, a T3 Lite, weights in at just 6 ¼ pounds — as lightweight as seems useful to me. Less heft and the rifle bounces like a clothesline in the wind. When you’re puffing after a climb or must curb the effects of pulse to shoot far, rifle mass is your friend. It helps mitigate recoil, too. A sling and scope quickly bring six-pound rifles to seven. A full magazine adds ounces. Occasionally I’ve wished for more. But after long hours on the trail, I’ll take 7.5.

Then T3 has a two-lug bolt with a 70-degree lift and disassembles quickly by hand into four major components. Its recessed face has a plunger ejector and a Sako extractor.

The T3’s receiver is slim but stiff due to a small ejection port. Rails machined into the receiver’s roof accept 17mm clamp rings, but the rifle is also drilled and tapped. The recoil lug is a steel insert in the stock that engages a slot in the action.

While early Tikka bolt rifles came in two action lengths, the T3 is built on one, with two bolt stops for different cartridge lengths. Single-stack three-shot magazines are of lightweight polymer. They can be loaded only when out of the rifle. You can buy deep boxes that hold more cartridges. A flush magazine latch is out of the way in front of the well.

The stock (walnut or synthetic) has a long grip and a comfortable pitch. It comes with spacers to lengthen the butt. Shadow ridges on the fore-end, with raised rubber-like panels there and on the grip, help you grasp the rifle with wet or cold hands. Deep fluting at the comb nose welcomes the heel of your hand. The stock doesn’t contact the hammer-forged barrel. A steel stock insert engaging a slot in the receiver serves as recoil lug.

Trigger pull on Tikka’s T3 adjusts from two to four pounds. The test rifle’s came in at 3.5. The trigger guard is the only alloy component on a T3 action; all others are of steel, save the polymer magazine and bolt shroud. A red cocking indicator protrudes from the striker race. A two-position safety locks bolt and trigger. The bolt shank is the right length for me, just long enough for easy cycling from the shoulder. The hollow, pear-shaped knob is gracefully curved and easy to grasp.

I’ve several Tikka’s, and all but a .270 WSM printed groups inside a minute of angle. The T3 Lite I tested for this article shot 140-grain Winchester AccuBonds into a 0.4-inch group, and with four of five additional loads I got 0.7-inch groups — and all loads shot well inside the 11/2-inch standard I impose on bolt-action hunting rifles. Indeed, the average best-group measure for this T3 was just half that.

Overall, the T3 Lite is technically excellent, it has a gunny feel that can’t be described but as certainly cannot be faked. The bolt glides. The trigger breaks consistently, although at 3.5 pounds it tested my control. Cartridges cycle without bumps. Shut your eyes, cheek a T3 Lite, and when you look through the scope, I suspect you’ll find the crosswire on target. Still, the Lite puts spring in your step after long days afield.

No, it’s not perfect. The safety is hard to feel with a mittened thumb. And I’d like an adjustment for sear engagement. But those changes would add expense to an affordable rifle that’s already accurate, nimble in the hand and easy to shoot well from hunting positions.

Want a lively, lightweight rifle with killer looks and Crisco-smooth cycling? One with dime-tight accuracy and a trigger that brings out the best in you? It’s here, from Finland.

Fast Specs

Type: bolt action centerfire; 2 locking lugs, Sako-style extractor, plunger ejector.Caliber: 7mm Rem. Mag. (tested), .300 Win. Mag., .338 Win. Mag.Feed System: 3-round single-column detachable polymer box magazineBarrel: 24 in. sporter-weight, hammer-forged; 1:9½ twist.Weight: 6 lbs. 6 oz.Stock: black fiberglass-reinforced polymer with rubber buttpad.Metal: brushed stainless (tested), blue chrome-molyFire control: adjustable steel trigger (3.5 pounds as tested); two-position safety locks boltSights: none; receiver grooved and drilledPrice: $659Distributor: Beretta USA

Accuracy Results

Smallest group: 140 gr. Winchester AccuBond — 0.4 in.Largest group: (tie) 140 gr. Remington CoreLokt Ultra, 165 gr. Federal Sierra GameKing — 1.1 in.Due to challenging range conditions, author submitted only the best of three-shot groups at 100 yards.

Caption 1: The Tikka T3 Lite is a svelte, accurate rifle perfect for those who cover a lot of ground when they hunt.

Caption 2: The Tikka T3 feeds from a single-column polymer magazine and operated without a hitch.

Caption 3: The two-lug bolt offers a 70-degree lift and features a Sako-style extractor.

Caption 4: Like most Tikkas, the T3 Lite demonstrated excellent accuracy.

If you ask the average American rifle shooter if the world needs another hot new hunting cartridge, it’d be tough to find many to agree right off the bat. But if you laid these specs in front of that same average shooter, they might change their tune: a long, heavy-for-the-caliber bullet with a high ballistic coefficient that produces less felt recoil than a 7mm Rem Mag that can be run in a light, short-action rifle action. Yeah, that’s definitely attractive — and that’s the new 6.8 Western cartridge.

It was engineered as a collaboration between Browning and Winchester, and released to the public in 2021 with hunters as the target demographic.

“The 6.8 Western is the cartridge we turn to for accuracy testing,” said Browning’s director of marketing and communications, Rafe Nielsen, on the Backcountry Hunting Podcast.

Many shooters may ask why two powerhouse companies would introduce a new cartridge in an already saturated market. Do the engineers at Winchester and Browning know something we don’t?

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Going From Good to Great

The cartridge’s designers lowered the shoulder of the .270 WSM, removing roughly 10% of the case’s powder capacity. Lowering the shoulder allowed long, higher ballistic coefficient bullets to seat in the case without encroaching into the powder space.

Fast-twist barrels of 1:7.5” and 1:8” help stabilize the long, heavy .277-caliber projectiles weighing from 162 to 175 grains.

The heaviest bullet you can expect to find in a .270 WSM is 150 grains. With heavier bullets and a higher BC, the 6.8 Western can simply reach out farther with greater accuracy.

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6.8 Western vs. 7mm Rem Mag

According to the BH Podcast, the 6.8 Western, for the most part, nips on the heels of the 7mm Remington Magnum in several categories — again, with a lighter kick.

When both cartridges shoot the same 165-grain bullet weights, the velocity for the 6.8 Western is roughly 2,900 fps, and the 7mm Rem Mag moves at about 3,000 fps. The BC of those bullets is more than 0.600 on the G1 scale, which translates into a projectile that can buck the wind and retain energy at long ranges.

However, the 6.8 Western produces about 15% less felt recoil than a 7mm Remington Magnum. It offers a cartridge capable of taking all of North America’s big-game species — minus the really big bears — in a short-action platform with manageable recoil.

With those features, the 6.8 Western is predictably an excellent deer hunting cartridge that’s capable of making long shots across bean fields on whitetails or steep canyon shots on mountain muleys. It’s especially well-suited for hunting the Great Plains, where shots are routinely at around the 400-yard mark.

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6.8 Western vs. .270 Winchester

The 6.8 Western and a .270 Winchester fire the same-diameter bullet, but their parent cases differ quite a bit. The .270 Winchester was born from necking down the .30-06 Springfield case to hold a .277-inch projectile.

The 6.8 Western was created from the .270 Winchester Short Magnum case by lowering the shoulder and reducing the case’s powder capacity, which allows a longer, heavier, high BC bullet more room to fit into the case.

A 140-grain bullet fired from a .270 produces 1,401 foot pounds of energy at 500 yards, while the 6.8 Western’s 170-grain bullet hits with 1,736 foot pounds The cartridges also have almost identical trajectories, but the 6.8 lands with a larger wallop.

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How It Stacks Up Against the 6.5 PRC

Should you get a 6.8 Western if you have a 6.5 PRC? That largely depends on whether you are a target shooter or a big-game hunter.

The 6.5 PRC allows shooters to hit vital-size targets on large bovines out to 800 yards. However, the 6.5 PRC’s 140- to 153-grain bullets do not carry the same downrange penetration capabilities and energy transfer as the heavy-for-caliber 163-, 165-, 170-, or 175-grain projectiles from the 6.8 Western.

If hitting steel at extended distances or shooting whitetails and pronghorn in open country is what you are asking the 6.5 PRC to do, then sticking with that cartridge is fine. However, if you’re after larger game, like elk, large black bears, or moose, the 6.8 Western will drive heavier bullets at difficult angles deep into the vitals.

Those heavier bullets will retain more energy at longer ranges. Pair that extra power with the larger frontal diameter of the 6.8 PRC, and the cartridge delivers far more thump on target.

Both cartridges also have the charge sitting close to the primer, which allows for efficient ignition within the case, consistent pressures within the chamber, and velocities that stay the same from shot to shot.

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6.8 Western Rifles

There are currently 23 rifle offerings from Winchester chambered for the 6.8 Western. Nine are in the “rifleman’s rifle,” the controlled-feed Model 70. There are also 14 options in Winchester’s budget-friendly XPR line.

Browning’s 6.8 Western lineup includes 18 X-Bolt rifles, including the Western Hunter LR. There are 13 X-Bolt models in 6.8 featuring Browning’s own Hawg Muzzle Brake, advertised to reduce felt recoil by up to 76%, depending on caliber. Not only is this easier on your shoulder, but it also reduces muzzle rise, so a shooter can easily spot hits or get back on target for follow-up shots on game.

For models that don’t wear a brake, recoil sits between the levels of a .270 Winchester and a 7mm Remington Magnum. It is pretty comparable to a .30-06 firing a 180-grain bullet, which comes out to about 20 foot pounds of felt energy in an 8-pound rifle.

Some smaller gun shops, such as the Texas company Hill Country Rifl, have decided not to build guns for the new caliber because some ammunition doesn’t seem to shoot well out of their rifles.

“The Browning ammunition made our accuracy standards of a three-shot half-inch group at 100 yards,” Matt Bettersworth of Hill Country Rifles told Free Range American, “but the Winchester ammunition did not meet our standards. And this was from the same gun.”

Winchester Model 70 Extreme HunterPrice: $1,869.99

Often dubbed “The Rifleman’s Rifle,” Winchester’s Model 70 bolt-action is incredibly accurate for a factory-fresh rifle. This version is built for dead-on accuracy in the roughest hunting environments on Earth.

It features a tough Bell and Carlson synthetic stock that resists moisture like there’s no tomorrow and a free-floating sporter-weight barrel with a tungsten Cerakote finish.

Winchester XPRPrice: $609.99

The Winchester XPR is proof that you don’t have to dump a wad of cash to get a great rifle chambered in 6.8 Western. The company took the proven concepts of the Model 70 and combined them with super-efficient manufacturing processes to come up with a reliable and affordable option for the everyday hunter.

Featuring an advanced polymer stock with a matte black finish, a nickel teflon-coated bolt body, and a rugged Perma-Cote finish on the barrel and receiver, this rifle is made to stand up to harsh conditions and rough environments.

The Future of the 6.8 Western

Predicting the fate of a cartridge is hard. Like the .30-06 Springfield, some survive because of the confidence of troops carrying them in battle and later into the deer woods. Sometimes the cartridge is paired with a rifle platform that flat-out works, such as the 7mm Rem Mag and the Remington Model 700. Some cartridges never make it far beyond the basements they were born in.

If hunters and shooters take notice of the 6.8 Western’s ability to shoot high BC bullets capable of ringing long-range steel or taking game up to the size of a moose, then it should stick around. An inherently accurate cartridge that recoils less than a 7mm Remington Magnum chambered in compact, lightweight, proven rifle platforms should find a place in any rifleman’s arsenal.

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Evolution really likes crabs.

That’s not entirely true. Evolution doesn’t “like” anything. It’s just a natural process that develops and changes species. It doesn’t have likes or dislikes.

But here’s what’s kinda crazy — evolution keeps making crabs, and scientists don’t know why. Seriously.

For decades, scientists have been aware of carcinization, the natural phenomenon of organisms evolving into crabs or crab-like creatures.

According to an expert at Florida International University, “Carcinization can be defined as the evolutionary process leading to the crab-like form.”

Evolutionary biologists aren’t sure why carcinization occurs, but some say it might be caused by the crab’s ability to survive. The crab-like form might have features that make it more resilient than other organisms, making it more likely to climb the evolutionary tree.

No matter why they exist, Earth is home to a bunch of crabs (about 5,000 unique species to be exact).

With so many crabs, it can be hard to pinpoint the most expensive varieties. Some are common foods, others are protected and face extinction due to habitat loss. With this list, we’ll look at the most expensive crabs you could actually buy. Keep reading to learn more!

8. The Blue King Crab

photo source: adn.com

First up is the elusive blue king crab. The creature is often found near the chilly Diomede Islands, a small region between Alaska and mainland Russia.

Blue king crabs eat worms, small fish, algae, and even other crabs! Beyond the Diomede Islands, these blue creatures live in cold waters surrounding Hokkaido, Japan, and the Sea of Okhotsk.

Blue king crab prices are hard to nail down, but you could easily spend about $30 on one of these animals. The species is relatively rare and not as popular for eating as the Alaskan king crab. The species’ population is also spread pretty thin, with small pockets living scattered across the globe.

Warming oceans could be causing the crabs’ strange distribution. The animal evolved to live in cold water, so changing temperatures can isolate them in colder remote regions.

All those factors make the blue king crab hard to find and pretty expensive.

Did you know?

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game says the blue king crab population is quite low, so commercial fishing companies can’t catch them. The Department says there aren’t any direct threats causing the risk of extinction, but the species’ small population is concerning.

7. Coconut Crabs

photo source: animals.howstuffworks.com

The massive coconut crab is just that: massive. These huge creatures are about 40 inches long and weigh 10 pounds, making them some of the biggest crabs on this list.

When they’re young, the nocturnal coconut crab lives in dense vegetation or piles of fallen coconuts to avoid the sun.

As they get older, the crabs usually make burrows among tree roots and logs. These damp homes keep the animals safe from the heat until they head out for food at nightfall.

As scavengers, coconut crabs eat the shells of other crabs to get their daily dose of calcium. They also enjoy fallen fruit and dead animals found near their beachfront homes. Some even eat birds!

Sadly, coconut crabs are threatened by habitat destruction and over-harvesting. The species was officially labeled “vulnerable” by the IUCN, and experts are worried about their future. As a result, these animals can be hard to find and very expensive.

Did you know?

Female coconut crabs usually choose to mate with males that are the same size or bigger than themselves.

6. The Dungeness Crab

photo source: sfgate.com

The Dungeness crab, a popular meal in the San Francisco Bay Area, is known for its mild taste and juicy texture. The variety is a common choice for crab cakes, but its steep price tag is a little hard to swallow.

Final costs depend on the crab and its seller, but you could easily spend $40 on one of these creatures. Others go for closer to $45 per pound. For a typical 2-pound crab, you’re looking at a $90 dinner.

Did you know?

The Dungeness crab lives along sandy ocean floors near the coast of Alaska. It can also be found down in Magdalena Bay, Mexico, and throughout California’s coastal waters.

5. Stone Crabs

photo source: commons.wikimedia.org

Stone crabs are often found along the coasts of North Carolina and Florida. The variety is a favorite among restaurants, many of which charge upwards of $70 for a small plate of stone crab claws.

Stone crab claw harvesting is a pretty unique process. Fishers catch the animals in underwater traps, then break off their claws and throw the rest back to the waves. Crabs can regenerate limbs, so the animal will regrow its missing claws over time.

Florida is one of the biggest producers of stone crab claws. The state regulates harvesting by requiring each claw to be at least 2 ⅞ inches long before its removed. Some scientists are concerned about claw harvesting despite this rule.

A study by the state of Florida found that as much as 82% of crabs die when both claws are removed and up to 60% die when one claw is removed. Those high death rates make some worry about sustaining healthy stone crab populations.

Did you know?

Stone crab claws have to be boiled and put on ice soon after removal, otherwise they go bad.

4. The Alaskan Red King Crab

photo source: cnbc.com

Coming in at number four is the Alaskan red king crab, a large species that can live up to about 30 years. Males can grow up to about 24 pounds and have legs up to 5 feet long.

Red king crabs live throughout the coastal waters of Japan, British Columbia, the Bering Sea, Alaska, and many other regions — but the most expensive variety comes from Alaska.

A 2-pound, wild-caught Alaskan red king crab can sell for up to $180!

Did you know?

Like other crabs, this variety is omnivorous. The species enjoys a whole range of dead and decaying organisms along the ocean floor, including fish, plants, and more.

3. Crystal Crabs

photo source: oceanictrading.com.au

The crystal crab is one of the most popular varieties among high-end chefs. The species has a thin shell and yields large portions of meat, making it a popular choice for restaurants.

Crystal crabs only live along the western coast of Australia. As deep-sea crabs, the species can be tricky to catch, making it more expensive. Although the variety isn’t endangered, crystal crabs’ isolated population boosts prices too.

A single crystal crab can sell for as much as $300, making it the third most expensive crab on the planet.

Did you know?

Unlike other species, crystal crabs remain white after being cooked.

2. The Giant Spider Crab

photo source: christies.com

The horrifyingly huge spider crab lurks along the seafloor near Japan. Living up to 100 years, the massive creature can grow legs over 12 feet long and weigh more than 40 pounds!

Despite their monster-like appearance, giant spider crabs are actually quite tame. The animal moves slowly along the ocean floor, snacking on dead organisms as it moves through the water.

Giant spider crabs aren’t commonly fished because they live so deep under the waves. Still, the creatures are a delicacy in Japan. If they aren’t eaten, the species might be preserved and presented as a unique collector’s item — like this taxidermied specimen sold in 2014. The huge creature was auctioned for about $12,000!

Did you know?

Giant spider crabs often live 50 meters below the ocean surface.

1. Snow Crabs

photo source: cnbc.com

Snow crabs are the most expensive crabs.

Snow crabs are mainly found along parts of Greenland, Eastern Canada, Alaska, and Japan. You could easily spend several hundred dollars on these animals regardless of their origin, but Japanese snow crabs can be particularly expensive.

Why? In Japan, snow crab fishing season runs from November to early March. Traditionally, buying the first caught crab is a status symbol. People are willing to spend thousands to get their hands on the first crab of the season. One sold for $18,000 in 2018, while another earned a jaw-dropping $46,000 in 2019.

Tetsuji Hamashita purchased the record-setting crab, saying, “I know it’s extreme. But it’s the custom.”

Did you know?

Snow crabs live among the muddy bottoms of cold ocean waters. The creatures feed on worms, fish, shrimp, and other small organisms.

The Best Glock Triggers for 2024

Yes, Glocks are among the best and most popular handguns on the market.

Still, as Glock is so prone to upgrades, there is always room for improvement. For example, the factory Glock triggers are not so famous. They have large pull weights.

If you’re one of the competitive shooters, then you probably need a trigger with less pull weight than the factory trigger provides.

Now, before we make a list of the best Glock triggers you can have, let’s explore all factors to consider before making a purchase.

Glock Trigger Types

There are different types of Glock designs that you can choose from for your next upgrade. For example, the most popular design among aftermarket triggers is the drop-in design.

What’s drop-in design?

It refers to an aftermarket trigger assembly that’s designed to be easily installed into a Glock pistol without having the need for advanced gunsmithing or modification. It got its name as it suggest the trigger can just be dropped into the handgun.

A drop-in trigger typically comes as a complete trigger assembly, including the trigger shoe, trigger bar, connector, and other components necessary for proper functioning.

The main advantage of the drop-in trigger is that it makes the upgrade process simple. It’s made to allow you to upgrade your trigger without having too much knowledge about firearms or specialized gunsmithing skills.

However, before shooting your handgun after installing the drop-in trigger, test a few times if everything works as it should before using live ammo.

Read more:

• (Top 5) Best Aftermarket Glock Slides
• The Top 10 Glock Barrels for Enhanced Accuracy
• Review: Glock M.A.R.S. – Magazine Advanced Release System

How to Choose the Right Trigger

Among various different types of factory and aftermarket Glock triggers, choosing the right trigger may not be as easy as it sounds.

However we turn it, everything starts with your needs and preferences.

Would you like to stick with stock triggers or aftermarket triggers? Aftermarket triggers can offer different pull weights, improve reset, or offer other customization options (including different styles).

Next, where are you going to use the Glock pistol? Different environments like competitive shooting, self-defense, and recreational shooting have different requirements and different triggers may suit each of them separately.

And finally, one of the widely known factors is the trigger pull weight. The stock Glock trigger usually has a pull weight of around 5.5 pounds (or 2.5 kilograms). However, if you prefer lighter pull weight, then consider choosing aftermarket triggers with less pull weight.

How Glock Trigger Works

The Glock trigger works on a striker-fired system called the Safe Action Trigger system.

Let’s break it down in a few steps to clarify how does Glock trigger work:

1. Trigger safety: The Glock trigger has a trigger safety feature. It’s a small lever placed in the middle of the trigger. You have to press it fully to move the trigger backward and fire the gun. This safety prevents accidental firing if the gun is dropped or if pressure is applied to the sides of the trigger.
2. Trigger pull: When you press the trigger, it moves backward. As it moves, it cocks the firing pin, which makes the bullet fire. The trigger has a short distance to travel, making it easier and faster to pull.
3. Firing pin safety: When the trigger is fully pressed, it releases a firing pin safety. This lever was blocking the firing pin from moving forward and firing a bullet. Now that it’s out of the way, the firing pin can move forward and hit the bullet’s primer, causing a bullet to fire.
4. Firing the gun: Once the firing pin is released, it strikes the bullet’s primer, ignited the gunpowder, and fires the bullet.
5. Reset: After firing the shot, you release the trigger, as you let go, the trigger moves forward, and the firing pin partially resets itself. This prepares the gun for the next shot by making it ready to fire again. The trigger reset distance is short, allowing for quick follow-up shots if needed.

The Best Glock Aftermarket Triggers

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger
2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit
3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger
4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger
5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit
6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe
7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger

If you’re looking for something on a budget but still reliable, then Syndicate Trigger by Agency Arms is a great choice for you.

The trigger is made of polymer making it strong, durable, and at the same time lightweight.

This is a drop-in model of a trigger meaning you can easily install it at home without needing different and specialized tools.

However, if you have older generations of Glock handguns, you probably won’t be able to use this trigger as it’s compatible with Gen 5 Glocks only including G19X and G45.

Price: $60Get yours here!

2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit

This drop-in trigger comes from the Zev Technologies brand, known for winning multiple world championships. It got some pretty good features that make it stand out.

The Pro trigger bar kit supports multiple generations of Glock including Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3, and Gen 4. It’s compatible with G26, G19, G17, G34, G17L, G27, G23, G22, G35, G31, G32, G33 Glocks too.

The trigger bar kit is made of hard-anodized aluminum construction. Because of this, the trigger kit is strong, durable, and wear-resistant.

Zev Technologies PRO Trigger bar kit delivers a very crisp and clean trigger pull, making it very comfortable, especially for situations where you’ll need to acquire targets very quickly and deliver follow-up shots.

It’s also easy to install without having any special tools, however, it comes at a little higher price point so if you’re ready to spend a little bit more money, this one is a great option for you.

Price: $132.30Get yours here!

3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger

If we have to describe the TAC trigger made by Overwatch Precision as shortly as possible, then we would just say it’s reliable and aesthetic.

It’s made of 7075-T6 aluminum alloy, well-known for its strength and durability which is crucial if you’re going to use your handgun frequently. In this scenario, when you need something resistant to wear, the TAC trigger will get you covered.

The overall feel of the TAC triggers is this: it has a very similar feeling to standard OEM triggers, but it’s crisper and also has better responsitivity compared to them. When pressed, it feels smooth on fingers with a very short reset.

Price: $122.85Get yours here!

4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger

Easy-to-install drop-in trigger made by CMC. Compared to the original Glock trigger, there are definitely improvements.

Let’s start with reset which is great while the trigger itself is light and crisp – something every experienced shooter is looking for when upgrading their Glock.

The trigger pull is about 2.5-3 lbs and is good for situations where you’re required to put several rounds into a target fast. With this trigger, you can easily deliver follow-up shots without affecting the accuracy of your Glock too much.

As for compatibility, you can use this trigger from Gen 1 Glocks up to Gen 4 Glocks. Gen 5 Glocks are not supported this time. Also, CMC offers two different models: one for 9mm Glocks and one for .40cal caliber Glocks. Double-check compatibility before making a purchase.

Price: $155.48Get yours here!

5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit

Comfort and performance – are two words that describe this model the best. It comes from Apex that’s already known for producing quality parts for Glocks.

The drop-in design of this trigger allows you to easily switch the factory trigger with this one.

The Apex Tactical Action Enhancement trigger’s main features are smooth trigger pull, reduced travel and reset distances, and a crisp trigger break compared to the standard Glock trigger.

However, this pistol works only with G43, G43X, and G48 Glock handguns.

Price: $99.75Get yours here!

6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe

Aesthetically pleasing yet great performance trigger shoe for Gen 5 Glocks (other not supported). This trigger shoe can go on Glock 17 and Glock 19.

Despite being available in multiple colors, which can also help you make a unique Glock build, the trigger has a crisp break with a short reset. If you’re a competitive shooter who has to put a few bullets in a row in a target, the Killer Innovations trigger shoe provides a very smooth pull and helps you have better follow-up shots.

The trigger shoe is made of aircraft-grade aluminum with an anodized finish. However, this trigger shoe is a little pricey, so be ready to spend more money if you want to own this one.

Price: $115.89Get yours here!

7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

If you’re looking for something that’s cheaper but still not lacking quality, and by the way you own Gen 3 or Gen 4 Glock, then you should check the I.T.T.S. trigger.

The trigger comes with stainless steel set screws, safety blades, and power springs ensuring the trigger’s durability.

However, this time you’ll need tools and disassembled Glock in order to change the trigger as ITTS is not a drop-in type of trigger. But if you already have gunsmithing experience, this won’t be a problem for you.

The trigger offers a 30% power spring for fast and fierce trigger reset which is a great feature when it comes to competitive shooting.

Price: $67.45Get yours here!

Final Words

When considering a Glock trigger upgrade, it’s important to assess your intended use and personal preferences.

While the stock trigger may suffice for some, many find aftermarket triggers greatly enhance their shooting experience. Transitioning to a new trigger may require an adjustment period, and practicing with a few hundred rounds is recommended.

Some may prefer to have their stock trigger polished by a gunsmith, while others opt for a complete replacement.

Factors such as trigger shape, intended use (concealed carry or competition), and individual preference play a role.

Ultimately, upgrading to one of the best Glock triggers can improve shooting enjoyment and accuracy, transforming your Glock into a more refined and personalized firearm.

Read more:

• Choosing the Best Glock Iron Sights
• How to Build a Glock Handgun at Home