BY CURTIS NIEDERMIER

They say birds make the bird dog, meaning the more contact your pointer or flusher has with live birds, the more effective he or she will be as a hunter.

Whoever “they” are never said those birds have to be actual wild upland game species. A small flock of homing pigeons makes a great substitute for the real thing. Homers are easy to obtain and fly well on the flush. They’re durable, disease-resistant, and in most areas can be kept and used for training without any special permits. Best of all, pigeons can be trained to home back to your coop to be used again later, which makes them a highly affordable option for long-term training.

Chad Hines, owner of Willow Creek Kennels in Little Falls, Minn., offered up some tips on how to assemble a flock of homing pigeons and put them to work.

BUILD A FLOCK Hines suggests starting with 12 to 15 birds for training one or two dogs. Adult pigeons can’t really be trained to home. Seek out young birds, which are called “squeakers.” They’ll have soft beaks and actually squeak when you pick them up.

It’s possible to trap feral squeakers along with adult birds (use the adults as “kill birds”) in barns and under highway overpasses, but Hines buys most of his birds from pigeon-racing hobbyists. Racing birds can sell for thousands of dollars, but in most areas, squeakers cost $5 to $20 apiece.

TRAINING HOMERS Keep new birds in the coop for about two weeks before flying them. During that time, teach them to use a recall funnel by temporarily fixing a wire box to the outside wall around the opening of the funnel. From the inside of the coop, put the birds through the funnel and into the box. After a few tries, they’ll learn how to get back into the coop.

Once his birds can use the funnel, Hines flies them daily. He starts by keeping them close to the coop and then gradually increases the distance.

CARING FOR BIRDS Pigeons are easy to keep. Buy a gravity-style poultry feeder and fill it with corn or commercially sold game-bird pellets. Add a rubber tray with sand for dusting and some type of grit. Clean their water daily, and add a teaspoon of vinegar in the winter.

BUILD YOUR COOP A coop can be a plywood box or an elaborate pigeon condominium. The simplest structure is a repurposed pre-built garden shed like the kind sold at big-box hardware stores. A 10-foot-by-12-foot shed can house 40 to 50 birds without overcrowding, but first you’ll need to make a few modifications.

• Nail short pieces of 2-by-4 boards between the studs as perches. • Add nesting boxes if you plan to raise young birds. A 5-gallon bucket screwed to the interior wall works well. Cut a half-moon-shaped opening in the lid, and screw the lid in place. Add some straw to the inside. • Affix a wire aviary along an outer wall with a door to allow the birds to enter. • Install a wire recall funnel through one wall. The funnel should taper down from about 8 inches to 6 inches in diameter. Add a wooden shelf or perch beneath the exterior opening.

How to make a trotline. Trotlines are one of the old time-tested methods when you want to catch a lot of catfish in a hurry. When you need to make a “meat haul” or just want to fish around the clock while spending your vacation time doing other things, set out a trotline or two and you will always come home with fish! Here are some simple instructions on how to rig up and set out a trotline.

A lot of folks ask me how to make a trotline. I have tried various methods and styles but I always come back to the simplest version and it just plain works. A trotline is nothing more than a long piece of heavy main line that has short lines or drops tied to it at regular spacing intervals. These drops have one hook each. State rules vary, but in my state (Texas) you can have a maximum of 25 hooks per trotline. Other methods to catch catfish include jug fishing which is very similar to trotlines, but more mobile so to speak. You can read about how to jug fish here.

How you set out the trotline in the water depends on where you are fishing. In a creek or small river you simply tie each end of the mainline to each bank via a stake or a tree limb. The line spans the creek or river and is submerged with small weights along the length to take it underwater. In open water such as a lake you have to tie empty jugs to each end and then anchor each end with heavy weights. then you have the smaller weights in the middle to take the mainline under the surface. The floating jugs help keep the mainline accessible when you get ready to run the line for fish. Trotlines can be dangerous if you are careless. They can drag you out of the boat and underwater in a heartbeat. I recommend always fishing with a partner when fishing trotlines.

To make the trotline I use just a few simple supplies. For the mainline I like to use a heavy 700 lb. test, tarred, braided or twisted nylon line. The heavier the better in my opinion. This line is relatively cheap and strong as well. Texas regulations state that the drop hooks must be a minimum of 3 feet apart. So a 25 hook mainline will need to be at least 100 feet long. I usually just use a standard 120 ft. long mainline to account for tying each end and also to account for the spacing knots to be discussed later.

For convenience I like to remove my drop hooks from the mainline for storage. That way I can ball up the mainline and not have to fight sharp hooks for safety. To keep your drops evenly spaced along the mainline I simply tie two knots about an inch apart at three foot intervals. This is simple and does not require clips and other extra parts.

The drops are simply constructed of a piece of 100 lb. test tarred twisted nylon line cut in 3 ft. lengths and the ends tied together to form a loop. I always cut lines with a good pair of sharp scissors and the burn the ends with a flame to prevent unraveling. I then loop a snap swivel on one end and a trotline clip on the other

.

The hook is a matter of personal choice depending on your bait, but big is always better in my opinion. The trotline clips make it easy and safe to assemble or disassemble the trotline while out on the water. I use them all the time and have never had one come apart yet.

I like to store my trotlines in a 5 gallon bucket. I store the mainline balled up in the bottom of the bucket along with the weights and then hang 25 drops and hooks around the top edge. Everything stays untangled and easy to use in a boat. I always store just one complete trotline in a bucket so I know that I have everything in one place per bucket.

To set out the line just use my diagrams below and bait her up and then sit back and relax. I usually run my lines every 4 or 5 hours apart. I also bait the lines just a dusk and go back at dawn to load my boat up (usually) with a good haul of cats.

You now know how to make a trotline. One thing I would strongly suggest is stopping by our fishing discussion board at TexasRiverData.com and ask any questions you may have and get more trotline instructions and tips. You can read and discuss the latest information there.

Try this method for yourself and stay safe and watch those hooks!

A pair of marble eyes suspended in green shadows. Last thing seen by many a baitfish. The weed-walleye connection is well documented, and many walleye tournaments have been won by targeting walleyes above, outside, and buried in weeds.

Species of aquatic vegetation used by walleyes vary with environments. Seasons ordain certain species of vegetation as walleye kingdoms while evicting walleyes from others. So what weeds do walleyes use most, or in what order as the environment changes with the seasons?

Some think it’s simple: Follow the forage. But it’s hard to find weeds without forage. Other factors are afoot. Where to start on any given day — in green cabbage? Elodea or coontail? Tobacco cabbage? Some other pondweed. Perhaps milfoil?

Wisconsin’s Greg Bohn puts clients on 10-pound walleyes like Miguel Cabrera hits baseballs — at a record pace. He can take clients trophy hunting or go for numbers, day or night. Either way, count on fishing around weeds. For Bohn, vegetation is more than cover. Plants are indicators, gauges, pointers, and signs on his dashboard. “I’m always excited anticipating how the weeds are going to be developed when the season opens in Wisconsin,” he says. “Lakes can be frozen on opening day, and I’ve seen openers with stalks already three feet high. It’s a guessing game until you get out there and investigate.”

In a warm spring, plants grow quickly and chances are good walleyes are in and around some variety of “cabbage.” What anglers commonly refer to as cabbage is mostly clasping-leaf pondweed. But most seasons start with a different plant species — the first one standing, and Bohn’s best early indicator. “Takes time for some types to develop,” he says. “So you have a growth shallow right away, and it progresses deeper during that first month of the season until you’re fishing around different species at different depths in May than in June.”

Bohn’s walleye compass when the season opens is elodea, sometimes called waterweed. “It’s available right at ice-out,” he says. “Elodea grows from a couple feet out to about 8 feet — sometimes in depths of 10 feet. Walleyes love it early. Find elodea and you find walleyes because it’s the only game in town. Perch are looking for vegetation to spawn on most years when the only greenery is elodea, which grows to a height of 10 inches to a foot. Start searching for it early in 2- to 4-foot depths. It generally appears first in bays where the water warms up sooner than the lake.”

Then he looks for what some call broadleaf, tobacco, or brown cabbage, soon followed by clasping leaf pondweed, also called green or narrow-leaf cabbage. “When green cabbage reaches maximum height, the buds pop out above the surface,” he says. “It’s a tough plant. The main stalk can break light line when a big fish wraps in it. It comes up quick and it’s fast growing. It’s the next thing to take off after elodea, and it’s the first type of vegetation most anglers begin to pattern walleyes in.”

Once a big-fish weedbed, always a big-fish weedbed. “There’s something about certain weedbeds that draw big fish almost every year,” he says. “One particular weedbed in a lake may continue producing big fish all your life at a certain point of the season. The attraction sometimes is a steep drop along one edge into deeper water. Sometimes it’s boulders along it. Sometimes it’s consistency of growth year-to-year. It could be they spent a lot of their young lives there, because it’s close to spawning habitat. Little idiosyncrasies that make it attractive in ways we can’t see — that progression is the neatest thing to follow.”

Walleyes are attracted to peak growths of different species of vegetation, but other conditions may determine how walleyes use it. “Walleyes come in-and-out of weeds a lot,” he says. “They react immediately to a change in the surface chop or a change in the light around weeds. They use vegetation differently, based on conditions and weather. They travel half way across the lake to find warmer water in spring. Your temperature gauge becomes your guide. In the 40°F- to 60°F-range, a few degrees makes all the difference. When it gets cold at night early in the season, deeper water is warmer than shallow water and walleyes are in deeper weeds. On sunny days, you find them moving shallower as the water warms — always to a peaking species of vegetation growing in some slightly different substrate.

“As the season progresses, walleyes might be less concerned about a few degrees of temperature change, but temperature remains critical all summer,” he says. “Plant species shift and walleye preferences change, too. They follow the vegetation to an edge, gradually shifting deeper as vegetation extends downward. The 4-foot plants are unproductive by late June, when 8- to 10-foot weededges become prime. It’s a combination of two things — water temperature and maturity of plant growth.”

Bohn always works vegetation from the outside edge inward. “Don’t pile right into the vegetation,” he says. “Our initial casts don’t even reach the weededge. Any clumps or points off the edge — that’s where the big fish are. Start well outside the weedline and feel for the edge. You often can tell what kind of plants are present by jigging. If not, try to get a look. Most days, the type of vegetation is important. When you start catching walleyes, you have to know what plants to look for on the next spot.”

Mid-summer cabbage lines and coontail clumps stop between 6 and 20 feet, depending on water clarity. “It takes time for the food chain to get going down there,” he says. “Minnows may not inhabit those deep edges for a while. Until the plants mature, baitfish continue to use shallower vegetation. But those plants may become too thick and walleyes seem to avoid beds that are overly dense. They like newer growth coming into peak height. It’s like a stair-step progression. Walleyes use plants at 4 to 6 feet, then within a week or two they move down to those at 8 to 10 feet, and so on. The deepest are coontail and sandgrass down to about 20 feet and that’s the end of the cycle. That’s where they stay until ice-up.”

Patterns and Presentation

“Walleyes are there big-time or not at all,” Bohn says. “It takes a short time to figure out which plants to focus on. Move quickly because walleyes do. It’s amazing what can happen in seven days as the ‘right weeds’ suddenly become too thick for walleyes and they move to a new restaurant just a few feet deeper. Sometimes walleyes cross the lake to find the next stage of weedgrowth. These movements aren’t necessarily taking place on the same piece of structure or in the same area of the lake. Sometimes it seems like the entire walleye population moves into one particular weedbed for a short time. Usually, though, when they move it’s a pattern that persists around the lake. Say they move to a type of vegetation growing at 10 feet on a sandbar. Every sandbar on the lake that has that type of vegetation has walleyes.

“Wind pushes walleyes shallower,” he says, “but I love to fish vegetation on flat, sunny, calm days right after a cold front. Bluebird days after fronts can be awesome in weeds. Walleyes favor shade and hold where feeding is easy. Look for fish activity on the surface. Young perch dimple the surface and outline a weedbed in calm water. Watch for them skipping out of the water, indicating predators on their tail. But windy days are great, too. In either case, I catch walleyes in weeds with 1/16- to 1/8-ounce perch-colored jigs.”

As surface temps warm between 60°F and 68°F, Bohn switches from fatheads and chubs to leeches, then to crawlers under slipbobbers from 68°F and up — but he uses more artificial softbaits than anything else. “When plant growth is developing, panfish become a nuisance, especially at the leech-and-crawler stages,” he says. “Softbaits take off when the water reaches 60°F. At a certain point every summer, I stop bringing livebait. Softbaits outproduce livebait in warm water.”

He jigs with 10-pound Stren Magnathin. “I like mono with plastics,” he says. “Braids work in vegetation, but the drop is less radical with thicker mono. And when you lift with braid, action is more abrupt because of the lack of stretch. It removes the arc in your lift-drop, too. Walleyes tend to hit on the drop, so having that arc, that pause at the top, and that slower fall is critical. Braid is too abrupt. No need for long casts, either. In weeds, short casts are a must.”

Bohn pitches with a rod at least 7 feet long with a medium power and a fast tip. “G. Loomis makes the BSR852, a 7-foot 1-inch stick,” he says. “It’s better known as a bass rod, but it’s an awesome jigging rod for plastics and walleyes. Medium power and fast action are needed to rip weeds free. For jigging I use a slightly heavier jig with plastics. If I’m using a 1/16-ounce jig with minnows, I use a 1/8-ounce one with softbaits. There are many differences between jigging livebait and plastics. To be productive, you have to appreciate those differences.”

Bohn uses 4-inch soft jerkbaits in minnow shapes in 55°F to 75°F water. “Once leeches and crawlers start working, Kalin’s and Berkley grubs excel,” he says. “Paddletail minnows and small swimbaits — a lot of softbaits work, but I have my best luck in warm water with 3-, 4-, and 5-inch action tails that resemble leeches and crawlers. Ring worms and grubs are good in warm water. Once the water starts to cool and days get shorter, minnow-style baits come back. We began catching bigger fish faster with softbaits than we did with livebait years ago. It’s so effective. I was strictly a livebait guy for years, but now I rarely have livebait on board once the water warms.”

After becoming a “plastics guy,” he designed the Walleye Limit Minnow. “It has the right texture and lifelike flexibility,” he says. “Stiff plastics don’t work well for walleyes. They get bumped and tapped, but not eaten. I think those bumps sometimes indicate walleyes are testing the texture of the bait. The Walleye Limit Minnow is the best soft jerk for walleyes I’ve used.”

Most people jig upward all the time. “With softbaits, you need something a little different,” he says. “Every day can be different. Some days it’s pop it up and let it fall, but sometimes they want it moving horizontally then dropping. You have to incorporate a pull, a short swim, or a slow lift, giving walleyes the opportunity to move under the jig. I freeze the rod tip at 11 o’clock, never go beyond noon, and never drop it below 10 o’clock. I watch the bow in the line. When you lower the rod you lose contact with the jig long enough for fish to pick it up and spit it out without feeling a thing. Freeze that rod at 11 o’clock and you feel everything. You see more line strikes and feel more ticks and light bites.”

A jig has to be rigged perfectly with softbaits. “It has to be straight,” he says. “If it’s spinning, circling, or running sideways, it won’t produce. Make sure the lure looks symmetrical and straight — not off balance, bunched up, or crooked. With minnow-shaped softbaits you do more twitching. With action-tails you twitch less and swim more. Hopping them is good, but a slow, steady swim can be best. With livebait, you give them time to get a good hold on it. With softbaits, you want to set the hook immediately. Clients often get bites without setting the hook right away. It’s in and out of their mouths so quickly. Weeds feel almost the same. If you feel a tip or a tap like a perch tapping a nightcrawler, that’s a strike. A lot of strikes are weight strikes — if you feel weight, set the hook.”

With softbaits, you get a lot of “let’s-get-acquainted bumps,” he says. “The best way to get that walleye to strike after a bump is to keep going. Act as if nothing happened and keep jigging. Once you get the lure near the boat, don’t raise it up immediately. Walleyes follow more than muskies. After the lure gets to the boat we catch tons of walleyes by jigging up and down right under the boat. Maybe 6 to 8 inches, and just a couple lift and drops. If they’re there, they react to that abrupt change in retrieve angle. Work it all the way in.”

As mentioned before, Bohn likes perch colors. “Walleyes are on perch-imitating jigs and baits based in green,” he says. “Chartreuse-and-lime, glow watermelon — any shade of green. A perch-glow head in firetiger or parrot is my favorite. All green or green-back, pearl-belly plastics are key in weeds.”

A soft jerk on a small jig swimming through green shadows. Last thing seen by many a marble eye near Greg Bohn.

Preserving Chub, Shinners & Sucker Minnows with Table Salt

You may ask yourself; what is the big deal about salted minnows? Why am I hearing more and more about fishing with salted minnows? I’ll answer that question!

First of all, in some Canadian provinces and many American states, it is illegal to use live bait on some lakes or you can’t use minnows unless they were caught in the lake you are fishing. It’s also illegal to transport live bait or bring live bait into a state, provincial or national park. It’s to stop the spread of invasive and invading species such as the Round Goby or the Rusty Crayfish. That’s one reason to fish with salted minnows.

The second reason is they work fantastic. Walleye, Northern Pike, Muskie, Smallmouth Bass, Largemouth Bass and Lake Trout and many other freshwater fish go crazy for salted minnows. The reason they go crazy is the salt! When a fish swims the muscles produce excess static electricity and there is a special chemical in the skin along the lateral line that discharges this static electricity is the form of ions. Predatory fish have sensors under their bottom jaw that detect these ions and salt mimics the ions. So when fish detect the salt, the dinner bell rings.

How to Salt Cure Minnows: Salting minnows is very easy but I have seen people make a couple of small mistakes that resulted in parts of the minnow rotting before it becomes salt-cured.

Step 1) Go to the local creek and catch some minnows or buy minnows at your local bait store. Minnows that are too big take a long time to cure and may rot so finger size or smaller is best. Leave your minnows on a newspaper to dry for a couple of hours. You don’t want them to be wet or they may form a crusty coating, which stops the curing process. Minnows bigger than your finger should be scaled and gutted, especially if they are Shinners or other fish with big scales.

Step 2) Get a container that is at least semi-transparent and has an air-tight lid. Pour about 1/2 inch of salt in the bottom. You can use table salt or pickling salt. Do not use rock salt.

Step 3) Place a layer of minnows on the salt. Make sure they are on the salt and not on each other. Cover the first layer with minnows then cover them with another 1/4 inch of salt.

Step 4) The reason you want a container that is at least semi-transparent is to see if you have minnows touching the sides with no salt touching parts of the minnow. You need to grab a fork and nudge the minnows away from the side and let the salt fall in. You want the minnow completely surrounded by salt and not pushed up to the sides of the container. Then you make sure there is a 1/4 inch layer of salt on top of the minnows and then add the next layer of minnows and keep repeating the process until your container is full of salt and minnows.

Step 5) Buy the wife something really nice, screw on the lid good and tight, put the salted minnows in the refrigerator and then give your wife the gift and at the same time you tell her you have minnows in the fridge. If you are generous with the salt and have an air tight lid, they should not smell at all and the wife will not give you a hard time. If you can’t keep them in the fridge, find the coolest spot possible.

Step 6 The night before you are going to use your dry salted minnows you can re-hydrate them by putting some in a plastic zip-loc bag and pour 100% pure Cod Liver Oil on them. After 12 to 24 hours they should re-hydrate and become plumper.

Fishing with Salted Minnows: With smaller minnows, it’s best to put them on a jig and very gently jig so you do not rip the minnow off the jig. Let the fish suck on the minnow for a few seconds before you set the hook. For the big minnows, it’s best to get bigger single hooks and a small sinker and just let the minnow sink to the bottom and then drag the minnow over the tops of rocks and weeds. When a fish hits, release your bail and let the fish take the minnow for 30 second to give the fish time to get all the minnow in its mouth. Also, many fish (especially Pike & Muskie) hit minnows by the side then spit it out to grab it again head first. So if the fish releases the minnow do not real in. Give him time to bit again.

I hope this page was helpful Gary

Expect the price of ammunition to rise substantially in 2024 as manufacturers dedicate materials to supply the war in Ukraine.

The first hint appeared Monday when Vista Outdoor announced the sale of its outdoor sporting products division to Czechoslovak Group for $1.91 billion. Vista Outdoor brands include Federal, CCI, Speer, Heavy Metal, Bushnell, Butler Creek, Hoppes, and Remington, which owns a large ammunition plant at Lonoke.

A source in the retail side of the Vista universe said that Czechoslovak Group wants the ammunition making capacity for the war in Ukraine. A Reuters article on Monday reinforced that opinion. It said, “Czech-based CSG has seen its revenue and profits rise since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine as demand for heavy military equipment and ammunition to ship to Ukraine soared.”

In December 2022, Czechoslovak Group also acquired 70% of Fiocchi Munizioni, which in November 2022 announced plans to build a firearms primer manufacturing facility in Little Rock. It is one of only six primer manufacturing facilities in the United States and is also the world’s only source for lead-free primers.

When interruptions occur in the firearms industry supply chain, the retail ammunition and ammunition reloading markets get pinched the hardest. Shortages are most noticeable for 9mm Luger, 40 S&W and 45 ACP, all common law enforcement and military cartridges. Accelerated production of ammo for military and law enforcement also causes shortages in the civilian market. This reduces availability of 380 Rem., and 22 LR, which manufacturers de-emphasize when producing high-demand military and police cartridges.

Robin Sharpless, executive vice-president of Redding Reloading Equipment, said that ammunition and reloading component shortages always accompany periods of political and social unrest.

When shortages are most acute, scarcity of factory loaded ammunition is equally acute. Scarcity triggers binge buying among some customers. Big box retailers sell an entire pallet of ammo to a few customers as soon as it leaves the truck. Moving inventory quickly is an objective in the retail paradigm. It doesn’t matter if it moves through three customers or thirty.

Sharpless said that during the coronavirus pandemic, he noticed the same behavior in the reloading components market.

“If you were watching Facebook forums, you’d see posts that would say, ‘Cabelas got so many primers, and I got them ALL!'” Sharpless said. “I talked to one of those guys. He loads a box of ammunition a year. He shoots a couple of deer a year, so that’s, what, half a box at most? But he’s got 3,000 years worth of primers. It’s an ‘I’ve got them and you don’t,’ thing. Those behaviors do hurt the market.

David Stone, president of Dong’s Sporting and Reloading Goods in Tulsa, noticed the same thing in the ammunition market.

“During the pandemic in 2020, there was no rimfire and no 9mm,” Stone said. “One guy told me he had a 50-gallon drum full of 22 rimfire shells. Never in your entire lifetime are you going to shoot all those. There are thousands of hoarders like that.”

Some retailers, like Fort Thompson’s Sporting Goods in Sherwood, flatten the supply and demand curve locally to a small extent by limiting the amount of ammo and components that individuals can buy at one time. Rationing ammo and components ensures that products are available to the maximum number of customers.

Rationing ammo is important during buying spree periods because it engenders trust, Stone said. Nothing frustrates a customer more than an unavailable product.

“I’m here every day and I watch my inventory level,” Stone said. “Big chains have got corporate people that watch stuff. They’ll ship a hundred boxes to a store. One person can walk in off the street and buy it all. I don’t do that.”

Even when ammo is available, reloading supplies often remain scarce for a long time. An associate at Fort Thompson Sporting Goods said it’s because ammo manufacturers consume the bulk of powder, primers, brass and bullets.

“A lot of the primers are staying with the manufacturers because they’re producing cartridges,” the associate said. “If they can’t get primers, they can’t produce cartridges either. Vista owns CCI and Federal, and Vista owns Remington. Hodgdon owns most of the powder brands, so they’ve all got the same issue. Powder is going to the manufacturers to produce the bullets. It’s all a chain deal. Reloaders get the leftovers.”

Sometimes, Stone said, it pays to play a hunch.

“I’m kind of a gambler,” Stone said. “When I saw a primer shortage coming, I gave somebody I’ve never done business with $150,000 up front for primers. When those came in, I gave them another $150,000. That’s a gamble that paid off.”

Even when demand stabilizes, non-endemic factors, like a trucker strike or dock worker strike, can cause a spike in demand and a dip in supply, Stone said.

“Let’s say there’s a trucker strike. There’s no freight coming in. That kind of kills everybody’s plan,” Stone said.

The solution, Stone said, is equivalent to retailer hoarding. He said he buys enough to get him through the lean times. When the supply reflows, he overstocks again.

“The last big shortage was 2013,” Stone said. “I hated it that I ran out, so I over bought. I’ve had primers since 2013. I bought too many then, and I’m glad I did. It’s already paid for.”

With a major supplier intending to devote production for the foreseeable future to a war that has no foreseeable end, the supply of hunting ammo could be tight for years. Stocking up now while supplies and prices are favorable might help see hunters through some upcoming lean times.

Upon encountering a troublesome black bear who continuously tore up my deer feeders, I decided I was going to have to come up with a better solution to the cheap plastic Moultrie ones I had installed. I began searching the hunting forums for answers but everything I read kept repeating the same old story that there is no bear-proof deer feeder. Most people suggested hanging a barrel spreader between two sturdy trees. There were plenty of examples of crafty bears getting to these as well. There are of course some massive deer feeders for sale for thousands of dollars that would work if I had the money to blow or a way to haul something that large onto the property. My property is very rugged, and everything has to be carried in by hand. After a couple of hours searching I did find a couple of designs that were small enough to bring in, but they still were close to $800.00.

There had to be a better solution. I headed into my shop and drew up some plans for a steel fortress to house a 30-gallon barrel spreader. I headed up to my local steel supplier for the raw materials, tossed a new tank on the welder and got to work.

The Bear-Proof Deer Feeder Build

The first task was to construct a steel frame to house the barrel.

Once the frame was welded up, it was time to give the beast some armor plating. I used 1/8 inch steel plate that is plenty sturdy and didn’t kill me on the weight. Before welding them to the frame, I drilled hole sets for the support legs I had yet to complete.

To this point, it’s still just a conventional albeit heavy feeder design. The 45-degree support legs were the first real modification. These were designed to provide adequate stability to survive a hungry bear. These legs are juxtapositioned to the frame legs for added support. Because of the length of the legs, I had to make them adjustable due to the sloping, uneven terrain and they had to be removable for transport. Each leg also has a steel foot with a hole drilled to accommodate an 18-inch rebar ground stake.

Next on the list was to build out the critter cage and spray a coat of primer on the beast. The inside of the cage has sheet metal angles to ensure the feed falls outside the enclosure.

Time to give the beast a facelift and add a cage door for easy access to the spreader controls.

Only a few additions left to create. One of the things I noticed about my troublesome bear is that he liked to rear up on his hind legs and hug and push the feeders from the top where the container held the corn. I took a page from Mad Max and added rebar spikes attached to the upper plate panels. The spikes are sharp enough to be uncomfortable but not so sharp as to injure the bear.

For the final touches, I added a solar battery charger and put plastic end caps on all the open-ended square tube to protect the steel from moisture. Nothing left to do but load up the truck, head to Oklahoma and plant “The Beast.”

After it was all said and done the Bear-Proof Deer Feeder could most likely withstand a tornado, and it only cost about $250.00 and a few weeks of fun in the shop. That’s a bargain in my book.

Update Video: After three days and many hours the bear gives up and the beast wins. Had to do a slight modification as the bear was able to spin the barrel which did cause a loss of a small amount of feed. The real issue is he tears the wire out of the solar charger which I have to fix each time.

All photographs and works are copywritten.

Any use or reproduction requires written consent.

The Planet Quad team reports on the Can-Am Defender XT HD10 2022 – Test Ride a vehicle that needs no introduction. Introduced in 2016, this big workhorse side-by-side from BRP has made it into the top 3 in this market segment. The 2022 iteration brings its share of changes and most importantly, an engine overhaul. We take a look at it in detail with you!

Engine

First, we’ll discuss the engine that powers the 2022 Can-Am Defender. You can choose one of 3 different engines depending on what you want to use it for.

• The new HD7: A 650cc Rotax single-cylinder engine producing 52 horsepower and 41 lb*ft. It replaces the HD5 with 37% more power while reducing noise and vibration.

• The new HD9: A 976cc Rotax V-twin producing 65 horsepower and 59 lb*ft. The HD9 replaces the HD8 with an increased displacement that offers 30% more power than its predecessor.

• Last but not least, the HD10 is at the top of the list for its performance. A 976cc Rotax V-twin producing 82 horsepower and 69 lb*ft. Already present in previous models, it has been revised to offer better performance and reduce vibrations.

With this trio of engines, we have an excellent choice of engines that will fit your needs. Moreover, Rotax engines are known to offer; performance, reliability as well as an excellent smoothness of ride.

HD10: The engine of choice!

If you choose the HD10 as our test model, you will have more than enough power. With the HD10, you get a lot of power and torque right from the low rpm range. Moreover, we notice that Can-Am has put a lot of effort into reducing the noise level in the cabin up to medium rpm. When the throttle is fully depressed, you can hear the roar and have fun pushing the vehicle to its limits.

The HD10 is the team’s favorite engine, as it allows us to work hard without flinching and is a perfect match for the rigid chassis that this utility vehicle offers. On the other hand, you’ll still be able to exploit those sporty abilities even though that’s not the Defender’s primary vocation. The result is a versatile vehicle that’s always ready to get the job done and that can put a big smile on your face when you push the throttle more aggressively in a series of curves.

CVT Transmission

To efficiently transmit this power to the terrain, Can-Am opted for continuously variable transmissions (CVT). For the HD7 engine, we get the Pdrive with different transmission ratios: high and low speeds, park, neutral and reverse… the classic H-L-P-N-R found on almost all vehicles of this type with a few exceptions. We also get a standard engine brake that will be very useful for its vocation as a work vehicle.

On the HD9 and HD10 engines, the PRO-TORQ transmission with Quick Response System (QRS) technology is standard for even more precise and faster clutches. In addition, high-flow ventilation and electronic belt protection have been integrated to improve performance and, above all, belt life.

Can-Am has also included a button to select the driving mode. There are 3 different modes; ECO™, ECO™ Off and Work. These modes will act directly on the response of the accelerator pedal and on the injection mapping. One will be able to obtain a driving that favors a reduced fuel consumption or more aggressive and also a last one to favor clutches at very low speeds for work. The different modes are effectively felt and it is adapted to take full advantage of the versatility of the Can-Am Defender XT HD10 2022.

Driveability

On the dashboard there is also the driveability selection. In this way, you can ensure that the grass on your property is protected as much as possible with the rear differential “unlocked” so that the rear wheels can turn more freely in corners without trying to tear up the grass. Then there is the possibility of using 2 or 4 wheel drive as is standard on other models on the market.

In addition, we can count on a front differential with the Visco-Lok QE automatic locking system when engaged in 4-wheel drive mode. This way, when one of the front wheels starts to lose traction (skid), the differential locks in a fraction of a second and allows maximum traction.

Suspension

On the suspension side, we find twin-tube gas shocks as well as double-arched triangular arms. This gives us a generous 27.9 cm (11 in.) of travel, which is excellent for this market category. In addition, the arched arms allow for a wider clearance under the vehicle to limit the risk of catching stumps, for example.

Moving to the rear, we find the same type of twin-tube gas shocks as well as arched arms. Once again, the 27.9 cm (11 in.) of travel is more than enough for thi type of vehicle and will provide the confidence to navigate through any terrain.

With these suspension geometries and the arched arms, ground clearance is an impressive 33cm (13″). Can-Am has selected a suspension that is firm enough to handle the hard work you’ll be putting your Defender through. However, you won’t be outdone if you decide to push it more in gear or use it for trails. Comfort is still one of its strong points!

Interior and other features

When you step inside the Can-Am Defender XT HD10 2022, you find yourself surrounded by a very spacious cabin that can accommodate up to 3 passengers comfortably. The Versa Pro seats are very practical, as they allow you to stand up and use the storage boxes under them. Or to bring your dog with you without having to worry about it damaging the seats.

Many storage compartments are integrated (16.2 gallons total) and well thought out, such as the glove compartment that turns into a transportable tool box by lifting the handle that locks it in place. In all respects, the finish is exemplary and the Defenders are a credit to what we know of Can-Am vehicles.

Our test model, the XT version, comes with several standard features. Thus, we are entitled to a 4500lb winch, a front bumper and an aluminum protection plate under the vehicle. You can see on the pictures that our test model comes equipped with other accessories like a retractable windshield and rock sliders. One of the good points of choosing the Can-Am Defender is certainly to have access to a mountain of accessories to configure your vehicle to your image and to make sure that it will be functional for the various applications for which you will use it.

Defender Capabilities

When you have a work vehicle, you expect to put it to the test and it was designed to take it! With the best towing capacity in the industry at 2500lbs, you’ll be able to tow anything you can think of. Plus, the cargo bed can accommodate things up to 1000 lbs. It’s easy to tip with the handles on each side and its air shock that controls the movement smoothly. It is even possible to add an electric servo to raise and lower it. This is everything you need to make the Defender your best work partner.

Driving impressions of the Can-Am Defender XT HD10 2022

During the test drive, we were able to test the Defender in many different situations. On the trails, the engine provides more than enough power to get us through the curves and put a smile on our faces. The suspension does a great job and the ride is quite precise. However, when you increase the pace, you’ll notice that he power steering is too much present and you’ll notice a certain “blur” in the driving.

When you put the Defender to work, you will appreciate its engine braking system, which means that you hardly use the brakes. This makes for a smoother ride when going downhill and when towing, for example. The turning circle is also noteworthy because it is very tight. It is therefore easy to drive around the yard or when doing work in the woods without having to go back and forth several times.

In summary, the HD10 engine is really powerful, quiet and economical. The suspension is well calibrated for the vehicle and its utility vocation. The interior is comfortable and well designed. It really has everything to be a real “work horse”!

The positive points:

• 3 choices of engines to adapt to the different possible uses
• Very powerful HD10 engine, generous torque and relatively quiet
• Suspensions are quite firm, but well calibrated for utility and sometimes more ”sporty” use.
• Attention to detail and assembly quality worthy of mention.

Points to improve:

• Very generous dimensions that can become a disadvantage on narrow trails. Especially in the extended wheelbase and MAX versions (6 seats)
• The power steering intervenes too much at higher speeds and we lose some driving precision.
• With the asking price of the XT version, it would be interesting to have doors and not only nets.

Conclusion

These many hours behind the wheel of the Can-Am Defender XT HD10 2022 allowed us to appreciate it at its full potential. It’s a pleasure to drive when you’re out on the trails. When we put it to work, where it is fully at ease, we are confident that it will accomplish all the tasks we ask of it!

If you would like more information on Can-Am models, visit the website or your nearest dealer.

Want to buy the Best Thermal Scope for your rifle? We have you covered with a comprehensive, constantly updating list of quality Thermal Scopes on the market.

We have all price ranges on our list, so you can be sure to find something in your price range and feature set.

What is thermal imaging?

Thermal imaging is a type of optical technology that measures the amount of heat radiation given off by living objects.

It works by capturing the infrared light that is emitted from the heat of a target, and this is then converted into an electrical signal that creates an image of the target on a display.

Thermal imaging scopes are useful in any kind of lighting condition and can be used during the day and at night, even in total darkness.

They do not require external light sources, are unaffected by glare, and can be used to see through dust, smoke, and fog.

However, they are pretty expensive and may require additional training to interpret the images correctly.

Best Thermal Scopes for 2024

ATN ThOR 4

The ATN ThOR 4 thermal scope is an excellent option for those looking for a reliable thermal scope in 2024.

This thermal scope is packed with features that make it an ideal choice for both hunting and tactical operations.

The 4th generation dual core thermal sensor provides ultra-sensitive detection and better contrasts.

The scope also has recoil-activated video, a one-shot zero, and ultra-low power consumption.

The ATN ThOR 4 features a built-in laser range finder, dual-stream video, and a new ultra-sensitive next-generation thermal sensor which lets you view and record at never before seen high resolution.

ThOR 4 series of thermal scope features a suite of applications like a built-in ballistics calculator, and it features recoil-resistant components and an expandable MicroSD slot that lets you record up to 256 gigabytes of photos and video on your device.

All these features make the ATN ThOR 4 an excellent choice for 2024.

Sig Sauer Echo 3

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 thermal scope is an excellent choice for anyone looking for an affordable, yet high-quality thermal scope.

The Echo 3 offers a wide variety of features that make it a great choice for an all-purpose thermal scope in 2024.

One of the Echo 3’s best features is its reasonable price tag. With two variants available, one with 1-6x magnification and one with 2-12x magnification, it is possible to acquire an excellent thermal scope without breaking the bank.

With 8 color palettes and 6 brightness settings, users are able to adjust the image to fit their needs.

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 also provides excellent battery life and a motion-controlled battery monitoring system, called MOTAC.

This system helps conserve battery life and helps ensure that the optic will power back on when needed.

The Echo 3 utilizes two CR123 batteries that last for up to 6 hours.

Finally, the main eye-catching feature of the Echo 3 is its large open screen. This feature allows users to keep their situational awareness high and makes the optic easier to use on the fly.

These features make the Echo 3 the best overall thermal scope for 2024.

Burris Thermal Riflescope

The Burris BTS 50 Thermal Riflescope is an excellent choice for thermal rifle scopes in 2021.

Its durable design and one-button control make it one of the most user-friendly thermal scopes available on the market.

With a 3.3-13.2 magnification range, a 400×300 pixel thermal sensor resolution, and a 50 Hz refresh rate, the Burris Thermal Riflescope offers a clear sight picture for hunting a variety of animals.

Its Hot Track feature allows the device to quickly and easily recognize the hottest object in the reticle’s zone and stick with it as it moves around.

The Burris Thermal Riflescope is also lightweight and compact, and its mounting system makes it easy to attach to a Picatinny rail.

Burris Thermal Riflescope comes with a 3-year warranty.

This makes it a great option for those who want an affordable and reliable thermal scope for their nighttime shooting setup.

Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro

The Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro is a powerful thermal imaging riflescope that offers a sleek design and a built-in laser rangefinder.

Featuring a 640×480 microbolometer resolution and an AMOLED display with 1024×768 resolution, this scope can detect heat signatures up to 2,000 yards away.

It includes a powerful laser rangefinder with a range of up to 875 yards, Wi-Fi connectivity to upload data to the Stream Vision 2 App, 10 reticle shapes in 9 color modes, Picture-in-Picture mode, and 5 unique shooting profiles.

It also boasts 10 hours of battery life, IPX7 waterproof rating, and can withstand calibers from 12 gauge, 9.3×64, and .375 H&H.

This scope is ideal for hunters who need precision and accuracy in any weather condition.

AGM Rattler TC19

The AGM Rattler TC19 is a great thermal scope for 2024 due to its affordability, impressive detection range, and versatility.

At under $1000, it’s a great value compared to its competitors, with a useful detection range of up to 650 yards.

It also features a FLIR Tau 2 sensor with 384×288 resolution, which allows for very crisp and detailed thermal imaging even at long distances.

The scope can also be used as a riflescope or a handheld monocular, with a digital zoom of up to 8x magnification.

It has the added benefit of being able to be connected to an external 5V battery pack via USB, increasing the usable battery life.

All of this makes the AGM Rattler TC19 a capable and affordable thermal scope for 2024.

Steiner NightHunter S35

The Steiner NightHunter S35 is an ideal thermal scope thanks to its unbeatable combination of features, performance, and price.

It has a high-resolution sensor of 640 x 480, a fast refresh rate of 12 micron/50 Hz, digital zoom of 2x and 8x, a long battery life of 4.5+ hours, and a lightweight 2.25-pound design.

It also offers durable aluminum housing and both first- and second-plane reticles, allowing the user to accurately and precisely identify targets in the dark.

Its price of under $5000 makes it an affordable option for those who need a reliable thermal scope.

With its reliable performance, high-quality components, and reasonable price, the Steiner NightHunter S35 is the perfect thermal.

ATN THOR LTV

The ATN ThOR LTV is a thermal rifle scope that has been gaining popularity in the shooting community because of its great price point.

This scope provides users with a 1280x720p HD display with Black-hot and White-hot modes, a one-shot zero feature for easy adjustments in the field, and 10+ hours of continuous battery power.

It is constructed with a hardened aluminum alloy and has a weather-resistant IP rating, making it prepared to face any adverse weather conditions.

It features the acclaimed 68 MOA circle dot reticle, which is known to offer the most intuitive ranging capabilities available.

With its excellent features and affordable price, the ATN ThOR LTV is perfect for both experienced and novice hunters and shooters alike.

It is a great product that combines both quality and affordability, making it a popular choice for anyone looking for a thermal rifle scope.

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40 is a thermal scope that was designed around the Keep it Simple stupid menu system that Fusion Thermal is known for.

The Avenger 40 features a three-button control system as well as an alloy housing. The 40mm Ultra HD objective lens provides a great sight picture. The sensor is a 384×288 12-Micron thermal sensor and provides a top-notch thermal image.

A quality QD tactical scope mount is included and this optic is backed by a five-year transferable warranty.

What are the benefits of using a thermal scope?

Improved Target Acquisition and Acquisition

Using a thermal scope can drastically improve target acquisition and range.

Thermal scopes help with three things: detection, recognition, and identification.

Thermal imaging requires no light to function, which provides a distinct advantage in dense vegetation, under cloud cover, and during moonless nights.

Thermal scopes can detect targets up to 2,000 yards away, recognize the difference between a hog and a calf or spot a weapon up to 500 yards away, and identify a person or animal up to 200 yards away.

Furthermore, thermal scopes have customizable reticles and color schemes, as well as a one-shot-zero feature and can save profiles for multiple weapons or ammunition.

All of these features help to improve target acquisition and range.

See in Low Light Conditions

Thermal scopes help see in low light conditions by detecting heat emitted by a target and displaying it as a visible image.

This allows people to observe their target clearly, even in complete darkness or foggy weather.

Thermal scopes are also especially useful for hunting because they are not affected by camouflage or other obstructions, and can detect a target’s heat signature at farther distances than night vision scopes.

They can be used during the day or night, while night vision scopes are not designed to be used in daylight.

Detect and Track Moving Targets Easily

Thermal scopes offer a significant advantage in detecting and tracking moving targets.

The key benefit of a thermal scope is its ability to detect heat emitted by an object, which is why they are able to pick up and track moving targets better than other types of scopes.

This means that a thermal scope can be used to detect and track animals, people, vehicles, and other moving objects even in conditions where other scopes might struggle, such as cloudy days, in the brush, and at night.

Thermal scopes come with a wide range of features and capabilities, such as adjustable refresh rates, custom reticles and color palettes, and one-shot-zero capability, all of which support enhanced target acquisition and tracking.

Enhanced Accuracy and Reduced Guesswork

When shooting, accuracy and reducing guesswork are paramount.

A thermal scope can provide just that, as it provides a clearer image of the target and allows for easier ranging.

Thermal scopes are typically equipped with a built-in rangefinder, so you won’t need to switch back and forth between a separate device, like a rangefinder or rangefinding binoculars.

Some of the higher-end devices on the market have the ability to geotag your shot, recording the elevation, location, and speed when it was taken.

Thermal scopes often come with a 4-line crosshair reticle which allows for an easier adjustment for range to target, as opposed to a single-dot reticle which is better suited for short-range accuracy.

The thermal resolution on these scopes is also higher, providing a much clearer image of the target.

On top of this, the scopes are durable and lightweight, making them easy and comfortable to use, and they often have multiple zero settings, allowing you to save various zero settings to change your rifle’s zero with the press of a button.

These scopes can record your best shots and even share them with your friends. All of these features contribute to making the thermal scope a great choice for accurate, ethical shooting.

Ability to View Through Foliage and Other Objects

Thermal scopes provide a distinct advantage for viewing through foliage and other objects because they detect heat rather than relying on light like a night vision scope does.

The thermal scope can detect heat in heavily wooded areas that help animals or people stand out among the vegetation.

It does not need any additional light sources and can be used during the day or night, whereas daylight can potentially damage a night vision scope.

Thermal scopes have a much higher contrast between the target and the rest of the picture, making it easier to see, while night vision does not.

Thermal scopes can cut through camouflage or dense fog, while targets standing still are harder to recognize with traditional scopes.

Increased Safety Due to Target Detection

The use of a thermal scope significantly increases safety by providing the shooter with the ability to detect targets, even in the dark.

Thermal scopes aLLOW the shooter to identify potential threats in low light or no light conditions.

This allows the shooter to make an informed decision before taking any action, reducing the potential for friendly fire or collateral damage.

A wide field of view and long detection range of some thermals scopes allow for greater situational awareness, enabling the shooter to anticipate threats before they become imminent dangers.

Reduced Fatigue for the Eyes

Using a thermal scope reduces fatigue for the eyes by providing a super clear sight picture with a good refresh rate, a compact design, an adjustable refresh rate, and an awesome resolution.

The efficient size and weight of the thermal scope also enable users to enjoy longer use without the burden of carrying a heavy device.

Moreover, the optics of the thermal scope provide up to 6X or 12X magnification with resolutions of up to 640×512, allowing users to have an enhanced visual experience while reducing eye strain.

What to consider when choosing a thermal scope?

Here are a few good ideas to keep in mind while you’re shopping for a thermal scope.

Purpose and use

A thermal scope is an optical device that uses digital sensors and computer processors to measure and display the differences in heat radiation as various colors and contrast.

It is used as a target spotting scope, allowing the user to pick out targets by their heat signature in dark conditions and through weather conditions such as rain, fog, and snow.

Thermal scopes are also known as Forward-Looking Infrared (FLIR) scopes and can be handheld or mounted to a firearm.

They can also be used to record photos and videos, making them a valuable training tool in a tactical setting, or be used to record your hunt.

Price

Thermal scope price ranges are quite wide: you can find some units under the $1,000 mark, but these are rare to find.

Most thermal scopes on the market will cost at least $1,000, and some will exceed $5,000 and even reach up to $10,000.

If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck, you’ll likely be shopping in the $1,200-$2,500 range, but if you have the budget for it, then you could even look at some of the higher end models.

It’s important to keep in mind that these are not night-vision units, which can cost only a few hundred dollars since thermal scopes depend on a rare-earth element called germanium, which supplies temperature-sensitive glass for them.

Features

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider several key features.

These include lens size, zoom, refresh rate, battery life, Wi-Fi capability, additional features such as Bluetooth technology, streaming, laser rangefinders, GPS, compasses, and ballistic calculators, and video recording capabilities.

Lens size will depend on the range you need to shoot at, while zoom will determine how close you can get to the target.

Refresh rate is important in order to get a clear picture, and battery life will determine how long you can use the scope without interruption.

Wi-Fi capability will allow you to stream video and connect to other devices, while additional features like Bluetooth, laser rangefinders, GPS, and compasses can add convenience.

Finally, video recording capabilities will allow you to capture and replay images. It is important to consider all of these features in order to choose the best thermal scope for your needs.

Quality and Reliability

Image quality is perhaps the most important, as this will determine how clear and accurate the sight picture is.

You should also look at the range of the scope, and make sure it can detect heat signatures out to the distances you need.

Pay attention to the materials used in the scope’s construction, as they should be extremely high-quality, as well as the pixel pitch and thermal resolution.

In addition to these qualities, reliability is also an important factor to consider. Look for a scope with a generous warranty length and positive customer support reviews.

Certain thermal scopes can come with bonus features such as Bluetooth technology, Wi-Fi streaming, and video recording capabilities.

While these features can be helpful, they are not necessary for good operation.

Ultimately, it is important to choose a thermal scope that provides the features you need at a reasonable price.

Optical Quality

Optical quality is of paramount importance when choosing a thermal scope. Good optics will ensure that you get a clear, high-quality image with minimal distortion.

The lens should be made of specialized germanium crystals, which absorb less light from the infrared spectrum.

This will allow you to capture more detail at higher magnifications. A larger objective lens, usually in the 50-60mm range, will also provide more signal and allow for better resolution.

It’s also important to consider the refresh rate of the thermal scope. A higher refresh rate means you will be able to detect movement more easily and accurately.

All of these features are essential for getting the most out of your thermal scope and ensuring you have the best possible experience.

Reticle and Zeroing

When choosing a thermal scope, there are a few important considerations that come into play. The reticle is one of the most important features to consider.

Reticle options vary from model to model and usually have different colors and styles that can also be selected to match your environment and target type.

Some reticles even feature a bullet-drop compensator, which can be a great aid to long-distance shooting.

Zeroing your thermal scope is also much easier than zeroing a traditional optic. Many thermal scopes offer a one-shot-zero feature, allowing you to set an accurate zero with a single shot.

Some models even allow you to save multiple presets, so you can have precise zeroes for different loads of ammunition on hand.

Overall, reticles and zeroing are two of the most important considerations when choosing a thermal scope.

Different reticle options and colors can help you better identify your target, and the one-shot-zero feature makes it easy to set accurate zeroes for multiple loads of ammo.

Field of View

The field of view of a thermal scope is the area the scope will allow you to see.

It is measured in degrees and typically ranges from 4 to 14 degrees, depending on the scope’s magnification.

Generally, the higher the magnification, the narrower the field of view. The field of view is important since it helps you recognize your target from farther away.

With a wider field of view, you can see more of the area around you, making it easier to spot targets.

The refresh rate of the scope also affects how quickly you can recognize targets and movements. Higher refresh rates allow you to see changes to the scene faster.

Weight and size

Weight and size are important considerations. With any optic weight can add unneeded stress to the shooter and weigh down your gun while trying to aim.

Making accurate shots is much easier with a lighter firearm and won’t fatigue the shooter.

Sensitivity and Amplification

Sensitivity is a key characteristic of thermal scopes that determines how well the scope can detect heat signatures of objects at a certain distance.

The higher the sensitivity, the further away the thermal scope can detect heat. Amplification is another key factor in determining the range and performance of thermal scopes.

Amplification increases the brightness of the image, allowing for better detection of heat signatures in low-light conditions.

It also helps to magnify the image and make it easier to identify objects at a distance.

Batteries

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider the battery life, charging time, and replacement battery costs.

Thermal scopes typically operate on lithium-ion batteries that are easy to replace and charge and the battery life for most quality thermal scopes is about 8 hours, which is normally sufficient for a single hunting trip.

However, if a person is going on a longer trip, a spare battery will be necessary.

Some thermals can use external battery sources, which can mix disposable and external battery sources.

When comparing thermal scopes, it is important to take into account battery life as it can make a huge difference in the field.

Thermal scopes have become more efficient, but battery life generally ranges from three hours to twenty-four hours.

Some thermals come with spare batteries while others are rechargeable.

It is important to read up on the scope before purchase to make sure the battery life will last as long as needed, also consider the cost of replacement batteries.

Mounting options

Mounting options for thermal scopes vary depending on the specific scope.

Thermal scopes can either be designed to be mounted directly onto a rifle’s Picatinny rail or require special gear, such as a mounting base with rail segmentation and scope rings with the correct mounting height.

Clip-on thermal devices can also be used to mount a thermal scope onto a rifle that only has dovetails.

Monoculars, on the other hand, are handheld or mounted on helmets and are used purely for observation.

They cannot be zeroed and do not feature reticles, unlike traditional thermal scopes.

Some examples of thermal scopes include the Burris Thermal Riflescope, SIG Echo3, Trijicon REAP-IR, Thermion XP50, ATN Thor 4 384, AGM Python TS50-640, and Steiner Close Quarter’s Thermal Sight.

Each of these scopes has its own mounting considerations, so it is important to do research on the specific scope before making a purchase.

FAQ

By Jonathan Kilburn

The Hellcat is a formidable carry pistol that provides a compact carry option with exceptional performance. And since Springfield released the Hellcat OSP (Optical Sight Pistol) version along with the standard, its optics options have expanded quite a bit.

One of my favorite features has always been the iron sights that come standard on the pistol. The tritium/luminescent U-Dot sight picture makes the perfect daytime and nighttime set of irons for fast target acquisition.

But, as good as irons can be, as technology has advanced, the use of red dot pistol optics has gained in popularity. This could be because of the ability to gain fast target acquisition, having an illuminated sight, or even the moderately low cost compared to similar optics in the past. None of these are specific to the Hellcat, but a general statement for all pistols used in defensive applications.

No matter what the reason for wanting to explore and use red dot pistol mounted optics, there is no denying their ability to assist aiming. When defending oneself and others, milliseconds matter.

Topping It Off

Today, we are considering two Holosun micro red dots released in 2022 — the EPS and EPS Carry. Since then, it’s been requested in many gun shops across the country. There is a lot to like about these optics. Holosun has developed a reputation for good quality in their products, and the EPS and EPS Carry are no different.

The EPS family, which stands for “Enclosed Pistol Sight”, come from the factory with a host of features. Each model offers several different options. While standard shake awake features, 50k hour battery life, parallax free objective glass and other various features come standard on all, one of Holosun’s claim-to-fame offerings is the optional solar back-up.

General features of the line include CNC-machined 7075 aluminum housings, Shake Awake Technology with last setting recall, CR1620 battery offering up to 50,000 hours of continuous use, multi-coated lenses, IPX8 water and dust resistance, aspherical glass lenses, and good window sizes (0.90 x 0.63 on the larger EPS, and 0.77 x 0.58 on the smaller EPS Carry). Weight of the EPS is 1.4 oz., and the EPS Carry comes in at 1.23 oz.

Holosun EPS Carry Mounting Options

C&H Precision Weapons has been in the firearms industry for quite some time, with a focus on slide milling and optics mounting plates. Some of their biggest clients has been various federal law enforcement agencies. Currently, they have a large lineup of optics mounting plates that work with most of the big names in pistol-mounted optics.

There is no standard plate that comes with the EPS lineup that will fit directly to the Hellcat. Holosun has partnered with C&H Precision to offer a plate marrying these two powerhouses. A kit can be purchased directly from C&H that provides the plate, screws and red Loctite or alternative. FixIT sticks and torque limiters are recommended. Overall, installing the EPS Carry on the Hellcat using C&H Precision plates is straightforward and as simple as possible.

Off and On the Pistol

There is a difference between the EPS, and EPS Carry. Holosun sent one of each for photos and examination. The EPS we received did not have the solar backup system and featured a simple 6 MOA dot. The EPS Carry did have the solar backup and a 2 MOA dot with a 32 MOA circle. All options are available on both platforms. Side by side, the EPS is slightly larger than the Carry in overall width and height. While not a drastic difference on paper, it can make a difference on a micro-compact pistol.

The Hellcat is known for being one of the smallest micro-compact pistols with a larger-than-average capacity. Due to the overall size, the EPS Carry was mounted to the Hellcat OSP. Dimensionally, the EPS Carry is 1.09” wide and the EPS is 1.19” wide, while the Hellcat is reported to be exactly 1” wide. No matter which optic was chosen, it would protrude over the side of the rounded slide edge slightly.

When mounted, a full view of the iron sights was still possible. The EPS Carry had slight wings that helped to line up the iron sights while protecting the elevation adjustment knob. This was something missing from the EPS which offered a flat surface, despite the deck being the same height. For intended use on a Hellcat, I would lean toward the EPS Carry, and save the EPS for a larger pistol.

Drop Testing the Holosun EPS

7075 T6 aluminum makes up the overall housing on both models. They’re robust and lightweight without looking like a set of “birth control” glasses from the military. Despite the look, the real test represents how they perform after a drop.

No optic is designed for excessive drops. They will all fail at some point. So, the most realistic option for a drop test would be the most probable type of fall for a concealed carry pistol — from waist height to shoulder height. As the Hellcat itself has been well-tested for drops and falls, it deserves an optic that can match that.

Taking the EPS Carry, the sight was adjusted out to 25 yards while being mounted and matched to the factory irons for co-witness. Firing two magazines seemed enough for the first accuracy test. The upcoming goal wasn’t to be as accurate as possible, but to see if the reticle will drift after a fall.

From the Waist: I dropped the chamber-empty Hellcat OSP three times from waist high onto a hard — but not abrasive — surface. Physically, it appeared nothing was wrong with the optic, even cosmetically. The reticle did not move.

From the Chest: Moving to chest height, the pistol was again dropped three times onto compacted dirt at the range. No reticle movement was witnessed when firing. It appeared as if the housing was even tougher than advertised.

From the Shoulder: The final tests came from shoulder height. With an outstretched arm, the Hellcat was dropped onto a tiled floor three times, leaving some small dings and a few compacted pieces of rubber in the optic. I test-fired the pistol and noted no reticle movement. Next, the pistol was dropped on the compacted gravel roadway leading to the range from this height. The exterior of the optic had some impacts, with slightly marred rubber pieces. There was no intentional attempt to hit any specific area. The entire test also caused some cosmetic damage to my personal Hellcat.

After the shoulder height tests, the optic didn’t appear to have any issues with reticle movement. While no longer as pretty or “new,” the reticle didn’t move and the buttons were still fully operational with the glass intact. Anodized coatings are great, but not impact-proof.

Concealing the Hellcat and Holosun RDS

With a 1.09” width, it’s not hard to see why this is a perfect choice for concealed carry pistols. This minimal protrusion over the slide of the Hellcat is so small it’s barely noticeable. When tucked away in an IWB holster designed for an optic, the pistol was comfortable with little to no noticeable difference. However, not all holsters used were able to secure the Hellcat with the optic attached. Some of these were just too narrow to even adapt that extra .09 inches of width over the slide.

When looking for a holster for any pistols with mounted optics, it’s best to find one with an open top adaptable for any width pistol optic.

EPS Carry Review — Conclusion

Both the EPS and EPS Carry are excellent pistol optics. The size, durability, and price are the perfect trifecta. When utilizing the EPS Carry, I found that it is not only exceptionally well built for the size, but the options available and solar back-up make it extremely appealing. To me, an adaptive solar back-up takes the worry out regarding the battery performance.

For me, the real stand-out feature with Holosun is the solar back-up. Ranging from an MSRP of $389 to $506, these Holosuns break the mold. For the Hellcat, an additional adaptor plate from C&H Precision Weapons also adds $50 MSRP. Overall, I think this makes for the perfect conceal carry combo.

Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out The Armory Life Forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in and discuss this article and much more!

Join the Discussion

Go to forum thread

Featured in this article

Once there was a time when I laughed at the notion of the AR-15 pistol. That time of laughing has passed, so if you enjoy watching others publicly eat crow, read on.

My brother, Stephen, and I have been debating the merits of AR 15 pistols for some time, so let’s rewind this a bit. My first intro to an AR-15 pistol was some years ago at a gun store that sold NFA items like short barreled rifles (SBRs). I saw an AR-15 pistol and asked where the buttstock was. The shop keeper enlightened me, but I had lingering doubts.

Then I ran across a Kel-Tec PLR-16. It’s not exactly an AR-15 pistol, but it’s close enough in the ergonomics to fit the genre. My biggest question was, “How do you shoot that thing – accurately?” The answer I was given by the gun’s owner was a bit unconvincing: Put a single point sling on it, raise it so that your sight picture becomes apparent while pushing the gun away from you. The tension on the sling will make it stable and good to go. Right. Then he did the opposite. Holding the gun at belly button height, he fired a dozen rounds or so down range at a paper target at an indoor range. Credibility, zero. Even with ear pro on, I decided to leave the range as the muzzle blast he generated was just as ridiculous as his shooting stance.

While my interest in shorter lighter gun configurations was real, the downsides to an AR-15 pistol in my mind were several. For example, the buffer tube sticking out of the rifle all by itself looked silly. I know, looks don’t matter as long as it does its job. And while that’s true, when it comes to spending discretionary dollars, looks DO matter, and the market bears that out.

Awkward looks in this case can translate to awkward ergonomics. When I looked at that first AR-15 pistol in the gun store, stocks were sill longer and bulkier than what’s available today. The mutated shortened pistol configuration was strange to hold, and awkward to use. No chance of anything resembling a proper cheek weld there. And I once believed that unless you perfect your cheek weld, you couldn’t shoot accurately beyond ten yards. Where I came up with that, I don’t know. Maybe some internet commando forum back in the day…

That was a few years ago, and much has changed since then, but not my interest in SBRs. Seriously, I can’t see anything magical about a sixteen inch barrel. The rules are the rules, but for practical purposes a shorter barrel can be a real plus. Put yourself on a four wheeler ATV chasing after pigs, heading for a deer blind or running down coyotes. I’ve slung a 16” AR while riding four wheelers, and it’s a pain. Minus a few inches and we’d be better off, but short of an AR-15 pistol, we’re talking about the expense and rules of access and transport for an NFA registered SBR. Better than not having a short barrel in that case, but a far cry from ideal.

The thing that changed my thinking about an AR-15 pistol was a great looking 300 Blackout version from King’s Arsenal. Yes, it was looks that turned my head and opened my mind. It was the first time I’d met Jordan King, owner of King’s Arsenal. He had a booth at the first ever Silencers Are Legal shoot in Dallas in 2012. Call me shallow, but the smooth sided upper on the billet lower all tricked out with a short barrel and a foam covered buffer tube was magnetic. King talked me through the genius of his creation and then invited me to go shoot it. Much to my surprise, I could hit Tannerite at 100 yards using an Eotech sight! Now I was interested.

Maybe you know the adage, a chicken is interested in making breakfast, but the pig is committed. Shooting with just a short buffer tube was still a bit awkward, though the foam cover was a step forward. So, I was interested. Then my friend Nathan Dudney at DRT Ammo got an AR Pistol that he raved about. Nathan is a smart guy whose job involves dealing with velocities and terminal ballistics. You certainly give up velocity with a short barrel, but Nathan’s enthusiasm got me researching. What I found was that at most common distances I’d shoot at while hunting pigs or in defensive scenarios, I had nothing to worry about from lost velocity with modern ammo.

What pushed me over the edge was a picture sent to me by another good friend, Keith Pitts, founder of Accurate Armory. I’ve known Keith longer than SHWAT™ has been around, and have confidently run his ARs for years. Keith had build an AR pistol for himself, and sent me a picture of it riding easily alongside in a vehicle. I replied with a “must have” kind of note and he built me a beauty to my own specifications. It was cool, but when I added the SigTac pistol brace, it became amazing. Today, Keith prefers the QD Buffer Tube Cover from Thordsen Customs, which I’ve not yet tried out. In any event, with the pistol assembled, it was time to go hunting!

The hunt would be a night hunt, so I chose the Wilcox RAPTAR Lite ES to work in conjunction with a helmet mounted PVS-14. Walking the fields of west Texas in the dark with that considerably lighter than usual configuration was great. My buddy Jared and I were in and out of my jeep looking for pigs. The short length was phenomenal for vehicle entry and egress, not to mention storage when we hopped in to drive to another field. Pigs died that night, and I enjoyed using my .556 AR pistol immensely (read the whole story here).

So once a “hater” I guess I’m now an evangelist. The advantages of a well configured AR pistol are clear. Storage, ease of vehicle entry and egress, weight, maneuverability, they’re all there. From the dead hog pictures, you can see the loss of velocity wasn’t an issue. You can add a silencer and still not be ridiculously long. One of the greatest benefits of an AR pistol over an SBR is the ability to travel outside your state without a permission slip from the ATF. Today, I’d be hard pressed to be more enthusiastic about the platform. I’m planning to add an upgraded trigger and perhaps a Gen 3 Law Tactical folding stock adapter for the ultimate in compact AR platform guns. In my opinion, everyone ought to get set up with an AR Pistol. So Stephen wins the debate, but now I have a sweet AR pistol and he doesn’t. Yet. And that’s how I like to eat my crow!