Whitetail deer are one of the most common game animals for hunters in the USA. But how many points do you score for that big buck’s antlers? Learning how to add all the points isn’t too difficult, but it does take a little practice. Here’s a guide to counting deer points and scoring your prize buck.

You don’t have to be a math whiz to learn how to count points on deer antlers correctly. Any hunter, regardless of qualification, can count points on their buck by reading up on techniques online. The Boone and Crockett Club website includes a user-friendly, easy-to-use scoring chart that will help you score your whitetail deer quickly and accurately.

Simply follow along, punch in those numbers, and let the internal technology handle the rest. If you’re a new hunter and looking at how to count points on your buck, you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll look into everything you need to know about scoring your buck and much more. Let’s get started!

What is the Boone and Crocket Scoring System?

Hunters have long kept track of the sizes and measurements of the racks on the deer they shoot, even before record books were established. This has made it easier for hunters to remember the size of the animals and compare them to other bucks shot by other hunters.

However, because there was no standardized method for measuring and tallying rack sizes, many hunters disagreed about which bucks were the largest. Sometimes, hunters were not using the same measurements. Even when they agreed on something, such as counting the normal points, nearly all the bucks compared had differences that produced important questions.

For example:

• Which are the main points on a buck that can be scored?
• What qualifies as an antler point?
• What about other antler points and abnormal points?

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization created in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt for passionate big-game hunters. An authorized committee of B&C members took on the challenge of widening the scope of the club’s current basic methodology to a more complete, equitable, and objective measurement system.

This system was meant to recognize remarkable North American big game animals.

Their actions developed an objective, honest, and fair grading system known as the Boone and Crockett scoring system. The Boone and Crockett record book classified scores into two groups:

Boone and Crockett Awards = 160-170

Boone and Crockett All-Time Awards = 170+

Their score sheet is available on their website; you can download it and enter the measurements. If you submit the Boone and Crockett Club with your information, they’ll use it to create valuable data. This information can then be used for conservation and game management.

Typical vs. Non-typical Deer Antlers

Hunters coined “typical” and “non-typical” antlers to describe the relative size of killed bucks. A typical deer has a symmetrical rack, which means that each antler’s orientation, the direction of tines, the number of points, and general arrangement are mirror images of one another.

In contrast, a non-typical deer looks unbalanced, and you can identify them at a glance. You’ll notice that the point count on each side does not match. This imbalanced appearance can be counted easily as having six points on one antler and four on the other.

However, if you’re scoring a BC score, the difference between typical and non-typical becomes prominent. When you score a typical buck, abnormal points will be deducted from your total score. But when you score a non-typical buck, you get extra points.

The lengths of the atypical scores are included in the final net score sheet, which is the main difference between scoring a typical and a non-typical rack. On a typical buck, these values are deducted from the score sheet. The majority of non-typical points include spits and kicker points. Drop tines, for example, are far less common to come across.

How to Count Points on a Buck’s Antlers

Now that you know some basic aspects of point counting, let’s look at how to score your buck accurately.

Step 1: Measure the Antler Beam Length

The first step is to measure the entire antler length from base to tip. As a deer antler is certainly not a perfectly straight piece that you can measure with a simple ruler or tape, this process can be challenging.

You may use a flexible cable or string to measure the exact length of the main beams. You’ll want to trace the beam length using the cable/string. After you reach the end, use an alligator clip or tape, or ask a friend to mark the end.

Now measure the length of the string or cable for the beam length. After measuring, take record and repeat the process on the other antler.

Step 2: Measure the Tine to Get Your “G” Measurements

The “G” values refer to the antlers’ tines. Each tine’s measurement is assigned a G and a number, beginning with the tine closest to the skull. G1 refers to the first tine (closest to the skull), G2 corresponds to the following tine, and so on.

To obtain the “G” values, put a piece of tape over the base of the tine, aligning it with the top edge of the main beam. After placing the tape, measure from the base of the tine to the top. Repeat this for each tine and record your measurements.

Step 3: Measure Abnormal Points

What counts as abnormal? Any tine or point that does not come from the main beam. This can include leaners, stickers, kickers, and drop tines. Abnormal points are measured independently from the main tines and noted in their own category on the scoring sheet.

To be counted as a point, a tine must be at least 1 inch long, and its width should be less than its length (for example, a 2-inch tine with a 2 1/2-inch base would not count).

Step 4: Measure the Inside Spread

Calculate the inside spread of the two antlers, which is the distance between the insides of the antlers’ outer sections. This measurement is taken perpendicular to the skull’s center line. The Boone & Crockett scoring chart refers to this measurement as a “spread credit” if it is shorter than the longest main beam.

If your spread credit is longer than the main beam, then that longer main beam length will decide your overall score. For instance, if the inside spread is 22 inches and the longest of the two main beams is 20 inches, then 20 inches is used as the inside spread credit.

Step 5: Take Circumference Measurements or the “H”

You’ll probably require more than just a regular carpenter’s tape measure to finish the “H” measurements. Here you’ll need a flexible tape measure used by tailors since you’ll have to wrap it around the antlers to obtain the circumference. Alternatively, you can roll a wire around the antler, measure the wire, and then mark the circumference.

Any antler, regardless of the number of tines, will have eight total H measures, four on each side. The H1 measurement will be the least circumference between the first point and the burr. The smallest circumference between the first and second points will be the H2 measurement. Continue taking measurements until you have four measurements for both antlers.

The smallest point between the following G points is used for all other circumference measurements. If G4 is absent, H4 is taken halfway between the center of G3’s base and the main beam’s tip.

For example, if you get a 6 point without G3 or G4, find the halfway point between the G2 and the main beam’s tip, measure its circumference, and use this value as your H3 and H4 measurements.

Step 6: Add the Measurements

For this step, you’ll need your most reliable calculator. All you have to do is add your measurements together. Your buck’s green gross score is the sum of all your measures. But the net score is what counts if you want to put your score in the record books. To find it, subtract any side-to-side differences and the abnormal points.

For instance, if the left G3 number is 4.5 inches and the right G3 number is 5, you should subtract a half inch from the measures. Now that you have the net score, you must wait for the rack to dry for 60 days before recalculating the score to make it official. To determine the final score, you’ll follow the same procedure.

How To Count Points on a Buck: Quick Summary

Let’s quickly summarize the main steps to count the point on a buck:

1. Measure the length of the two major beams.
2. Measure the lengths of each point.
3. Add the four circumference measurements together.
4. Count the spread credit.
5. Subtract the total length of all atypical tines on a typical rack.
6. Subtract the difference between each main beam measurement for the right and left.
7. Subtract the differences in the left and right major points’ measurements.
8. Subtract the difference between each circumference reading.

Bottom Line

As most hunters take down one buck each season, scoring is a process best left to the professionals. A taxidermist, guide, or even a professional wild game processor can assist you in counting your points.

You’ll need a notepad, flexible tape, basic math skills or a calculator to score your prize. If you believe your buck is great enough to break a record and is qualified for a place in the records, send your bid formally by reaching the Boone and Crockett Club. A professional from the club will arrive and record your new score for everyone to see in their book.

FAQ

What counts as a point on a buck?

In hunting, a point on a buck refers to the individual tines of the antlers. A tine has to be at least one inch long and may be quickly counted by assuming that an overwhelming majority of mature whitetail bucks grow a brow tine on each antler and that the main beam tip is counted as one point. Points are typically documented on Column G, which is why hunters often refer to them as G-points. Points include the brow tine, which sticks straight up near the base of the antlers.

How rare is an 8-point buck?

8-point bucks are the most common, making up 50 percent of antlered deer in all mature buck age classes. Is an 8-point that may be average to many hunters your perfect buck? It all depends on the hunter’s preferences and criteria such as hunting pressure, available food, and the age of the buck. Ultimately, the decision of what constitutes a “perfect buck” is subjective and varies from hunter to hunter.

Do you count brow tines in the score?

Brow tines are small antlers that point forward over the deer’s eyes. These are counted for whitetail deer but not for mule deer.

How can you count a buck’s score in the field?

One quick estimation can be made by counting the number of points through your scope or binoculars. A buck that has two standing normal points per side is probably an 8-point buck. If you spot one with three standing points, it is probably a 10-point buck.

Counting deer antler points in the field is a good way to estimate the score, but you’ll need to bag the deer and let its antlers dry for 60 days before you can get an official score.

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Accuracy and precision are two key factors in shooting at any distance and with any firearm. A distance of 300 yards isn’t far enough yet to be considered ‘long range’ shooting, but it is farther than a lot of people are used to. At 50 or 100 yards mistakes and shooting errors aren’t as glaring. Without the proper knowledge and tools, at 300 yards you might be off the paper entirely, or at least far from the center. So, today we will be discussing rifle distances, scopes, tips for selecting good rifle optics for 300 yards, and shooting tips to remain effective at this distance.

Understanding the Challenges of Shooting at 300 Yards

To make informed decisions about the right 300 yard rifle scope first, we have to respect that this isn’t just backyard shooting. At 300 yards mistakes are a big deal, and the scope you choose should be considered with the same level of seriousness. Let’s discuss the challenges of hitting targets at 300 yards and beyond, and how the right rifle scope can be the difference-maker.

Bullet Drop

Bullet drop refers to the projectile’s descent due to gravity. At 300 yards you can expect to see the following.

• A .308 caliber round will drop roughly between 10-12 inches (depending on specific load, conditions, and ballistic coefficient of the round).
• A 6.5 Creedmoor will see a drop of around 7-9 inches.
• A 5.56 round experiences a drop of approximately 11-13 inches.

Wind Drift

Another factor to reckon with is wind drift — the sideways motion of a bullet caused by crosswinds. Ballistic coefficients tell us how aerodynamically efficient a bullet is, which becomes more relevant as we shoot farther. The higher this coefficient, the less the bullet will be affected by wind drift.

For a 7 mph crosswind at 300 yards:

• A .308 caliber round will drift by about 10-12 inches.
• A 6.5 Creedmoor will drift around 7-9 inches.
• The 5.56 round will experience a wind drift of approximately 9-11 inches.

Target Visibility

It’s basic logic: the farther the target, the harder it is to see clearly. When you’re aiming at 300 yards, being able to discern your target clearly becomes more important. A good rifle scope will not only offer magnification to bring the target into closer focus but also have clear glass that give a crisp image.

A jump from 100 to 300 yards in shooting is no small feat. Bullet drop, wind drift, and target visibility are challenges that shooters must navigate. However, with the right rifle scope hitting targets at 300 yards becomes far more achievable.

Considerations Of 300 Yard Scopes

When selecting a rifle scope for long shots, understanding specific scope features will guide you towards making a choice in deciding what a good rifle scope for 300 yards will be.

Magnification Range

Magnification is a key factor in providing a close-up view of your target. For 300 yards, a magnification range between 5x and 12x is considered suitable. It provides a clear view of the target while maintaining a decent field of view (FOV) to observe surroundings, helping shooters aim precisely and also track moving targets or changing conditions swiftly. Semi-auto shooters are sometimes concerned about being able to quickly acquire targets for closer shots, and many elect to add an offset red dot on a rifle mount for quick close-range shots.

Objective Lens Diameter

The objective lens of a rifle scope determines how much light the scope allows to influence the brightness and clarity of the image. A larger objective lens enables more light, rendering a brighter and clearer image, especially in low-light conditions. However, be mindful of the size and weight it adds to your setup, as a larger lens can be bulkier.

Reticle Type

A reticle, or “crosshairs” help a shooter select their point of aim. For 300-yard shooting, a Bullet Drop Compensator (BDC) reticle can be beneficial as it provides holdover points to account for bullet drop at various distances. Alternatively, a Mil-Dot reticle provides dots along the x and y-axes. These can be used to estimate distances and holdovers, aiding in adjusting for windage and bullet drop more dynamically.

Adjustment Turrets

Adjustment turrets are knobs on a scope that allow you to modify the reticle’s position for windage (horizontal) and elevation (vertical) to sight in your rifle scope at your desired distance. These shouldn’t be changed for windage and elevation of a single shot like in the movies.

Optics Quality

High-quality glass characterized by clear, sharp, and bright images, makes a huge difference in seeing at distances. Look for scopes with lenses that have coatings to reduce glare and enhance light transmission. Superior optical quality reduces eye strain and provides a clearer sight picture, which becomes more important as distance increases.

Durability

Your scope needs to be durable enough to withstand recoil and weather elements. Seek scopes that are fog-proof, and constructed with materials like aircraft-grade aluminum to provide longevity and reliable performance such as the Apex Falcon V2 LPVO Scope.

Eye Relief

Eye relief pertains to the distance from your eye to the scope’s ocular lens while still providing a full-sight picture. Too much or too little eye relief causes scope shadowing.

It also protects your eye from ‘scope eye,’ or ‘scope bite’ which happens when the gun recoils and your eye is too close. It doesn’t feel good… I’m told.

Generally, an eye relief of at least 3.5 inches is considered safe and comfortable for most shooters with a more powerful rifle. Eye relief usually decreases as magnification increases, it is important to select the right picatinny mount for your scope.

Find The Right Scope For Your Long-Range Rifle

In selecting a proper 300 yard rifle scope you have to make sure it is compatible with your rifle. Many scope reticles on the market that compensate for bullet drop are caliber-specific and not interchangeable. So be sure to do your research or you may find yourself with an expensive scope that you cannot use.

Calibers For 300 Yard Rifle Scopes

Each caliber has different external and terminal ballistics which should be considered. For example, of the three calibers we have been discussing 6.5 Creedmoor has the highest ballistic coefficient. BC is part of the external ballistics of the round and dictates why it is less affected by external factors.

. A few popular calibers for 300-yard shooting include:

• .308 Winchester: Known for its accuracy and versatility, the .308 Winchester has a relatively flat trajectory, which means it doesn’t drop as quickly at longer distances. It also delivers good energy and is less affected by wind, making it a popular choice for long-range shooting.
• 6.5 Creedmoor: The 6.5 Creedmoor is highly regarded for its long-range precision. It combines a high ballistic coefficient with low recoil, allowing for accurate shots well beyond 300 yards. It’s known for maintaining velocity and energy at extended ranges.
• 5.56 NATO: While the 5.56 NATO is not typically associated with extremely long-range shooting, but is still very effective at 300 yards and beyond, especially with the right barrel twist rate. It’s lightweight, which reduces recoil, and it’s readily available, making it a budget-friendly option for intermediate-range shooting.

Each of these calibers has its own ballistic profile, influencing aspects like bullet drop and wind drift at 300 yards, which should inform your choice of scope and reticle. The terminal ballistics of each round should also be considered based on your goals for the firearm. Terminal ballistics is the study of what happens to a projectile, such as a bullet, upon impact with a target.

Selecting Reticle For 300-Yard Shooting

The reticle is essentially your aiming point within the scope, and choosing a type that complements your shooting style and the ballistics of your caliber goes a long way to increase precision with distance.

BDC Reticles

Bullet Drop Compensator (BDC) reticles feature holdover points that visually represent bullet drop at varied distances, making it easier to quickly adjust your aim for long shots without needing to make any rifle scope adjustments. BDC reticles are calibers and bullet weight specific so choose one that aligns with your shooting profile.

Mil-Dot Reticles

Mil-Dot reticles are another fantastic option for long-range shooting. They feature dots along the crosshairs that represent specific distances (in milliradians) and can be used to estimate the distance to your target and adjust for both bullet drop and windage. This type of reticle allows for swift adjustments and is popular among military, tactical shooters, and hunters.

Illuminated Reticles

Illuminated reticles incorporate adjustable lighting into the reticle design. This helps visibility in low-light conditions – like during dawn or dusk, or in heavily shadowed areas.

This enhancement can significantly improve sight picture and target acquisition when natural lighting is suboptimal. However, don’t forget to swap out batteries, or bring extra on your hunting trip.

Looking for a scope that really does the job?

The Tacticon Armament Falcon V3 it a dedicated rifle scope that features an illuminated reticle that allows you to choose between red, green, and blue. The different color choices allow the scope to be more adaptable in different environments. With a 3x-9x range the scope is very capable at 300 yards, and the Mil-dot reticle assists shooters with hold overs for distance and wind drift. The scope comes in at a very affordable price, right around $150, and can be used for a variety of calibers.

Tips To Improve 300-Yard Shooting Performance

Effective shooting at 300 yards doesn’t only depend on choosing the right rifle scope, accounting for wind drift, and bullet drop. It also heavily relies on your shooting techniques, understanding of environmental factors, and knowledge about the ballistics of your chosen caliber. Let’s discuss some aspects that can fine-tune your 300-yard shooting abilities.

General Shooting Tips

There’s no replacement for proper shooting technique. Even minor inconsistencies in your shooting fundamentals are magnified over longer distances, transforming what might be negligible at 100 yards into a significant miss at 300 yards. Here’s a closer look at some general tips:

• Trigger Pull: A smooth, consistent pull avoids disturbing the rifle’s position during firing.
• Breathing: Pause your breath while squeezing the trigger to reduce movement.
• Steady Shooting Position: Establish a stable position, ensuring that the rifle is well-supported and your body is relaxed. A minor error in any of these can result in a several-inch deviation at 300 yards, whereas the impact would be minimal at closer ranges like 100 yards.

Adjustment Factors

• Wind Reading: Understanding how to read the wind and compensate for its effect on your projectile makes a big difference. Wind can push your bullet off course, and its impact is more pronounced at 300 yards. Look for tall grass, leaves, really anything that moves to help estimate wind speed.
• Range Estimation: Accurate range estimation is key to compensating for bullet drop. Mil dot and BDC reticles will help with this. Range finders are also very useful. Don’t forget your analog skills though. In the movie Jarhead, Jamie Foxx asked his Marines how he knew the target was 300 yards away. One Marine replied “Three football fields, Sir.” When in doubt, use what you know.

Ballistics

Understanding the ballistic characteristics of your chosen caliber and ammunition is a fundamental piece of compensating for bullet drop and wind drift. The difference in bullet drop from a 55gr FMJ and 77gr OTM 5.56 round is about 4 inches at this distance, with the 77gr having less drop due to its higher ballistic coefficient.

Final Notes

Successful shooting at 300 yards comes down to marksmanship fundamentals first and foremost. After this having an accurate rifle is the next essential. Without these two there is no way to consistently make accurate shots.

A good scope will both increase accuracy and consistency once these two pieces are in place. For 300 yards it is best to have a scope with a way to compensate for environmental factors tailored to the caliber of the rifle.

Proper magnification between 5x-12x will greatly increase visibility and accuracy by making it easier to aim. Look for a scope with crisp, clear glass and keep it clean so it will serve you for years to come.

The opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of Tacticon Armament.

Tired of leaky waders? In this guide, I’ll show you how to repair breathable waders, so you can get back on the water in no time.

After a heavy 2021 of fly fishing, my Simms waders developed a leak in the neoprene bootie. It is one of those miserable feelings standing in the water and feeling the cold water creep in.

The good news was that I had wool socks so it wasn’t too cold but my whole right leg was soaked.

Many people would send them back to the manufacturer but I had heard stories about how long Simms was taking to repair waders. People were telling me that they were going to have to wait months before Simms would repair their waders.

I had repaired a pair of GoreTex Simm’s waders before that I cut open on a rock so I knew how to fix the legs, but I didn’t really know how to fix the bootie-or if that was even possible.

As it turns out, Simms does not recommend repairing the booties at the seam. So, if you have a leak in the seam, you are better off sending it for them to put on new booties.

My hole appeared to be in the big toe area and nowhere near the seam, so I gave it a try. Low and behold, it worked perfectly.

A fishing friend of mine is sitting on several pairs of leaking waders because he won’t try to fix them himself. Well, to be honest, he tried once, and it didn’t turn out well for him or the waders. I think he’s waiting on me to offer to do it for him.

So, if you find yourself in the same situation, here are the steps I took:

Identify The Leak

There are a few ways to identify leaks. One way is to turn your waders inside out. Put rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle and spray the legs of the waders, seat area, and chest. Basically, any place you want to check for leaks.

Holes show up as a little black dot.

Circle those dots with a magic marker.

Another way is to fill the waders with water. However, Simms cautions that you should not fill the entire wader all the way to the top but only as high as the knee area. Anything more and you risk damaging your waders because of the weight of the water can rip seams. In my case, I could see that the neoprene was worn right near my big toe.

In my research, I discovered that the big toe was one area that was frequently damaged by rubbing or large toenails.

Rips and tears are pretty obvious. In my case, I could easily see through my waders to know I had worn away the neoprene in the bootie.

Get Yourself Some Aquaseal And Patches

Aquaseal will be your friend.

This rubber cement-type product is highly recommended by wader companies for repairs. It is durable and flexible and works on waders, neoprene wetsuits, and dry bags for repairs that last.

Simms and Aquaseal offer wader repair kits that include Tenacious Tape patches to make the repairs more precise and permanent. I highly suggest getting these kits because everything you need is right in the kit.

Be Patient And Build Layers.

The key to using Aquaseal is to make sure you don’t glob it on all at one time, but you put build it up in layers. I just used a little bit at first over the worn area. I went a little larger than the worn area and let it dry overnight.

Let the area cure.

The next day, I put a little more on and let that dry. I did this for about 3 days straight.

By the end, the Aquaseal glue had dried nicely, and I tested the bootie again by filling it up with water and it held.

Don’t Do It All At One Time

My friend who is waiting for me to do his wader repairs can be impatient at times.

So, he put Aquaseal on all the black dots that he saw, turned the waders over and somehow the legs got stuck together. I recommend that you do one leg at a time, or the front or the back at a time, let it dry and switch.

Don’t let the legs touch while the glue is still wet, or you will be like my friend and have a pair of Simms G4’s where the legs are glued to each other.

Test Your Repair

There is nothing worse than having ice-cold water steep into your waders on a cold winter day on the river. So, test your repair.

If you can fill your waders with water because your repair is below the knee, test them by filling them up to the knee. That’s how I tested my booties.

If they are above the knee, then spray the alcohol again on your waders and look for the black dots.

The good news was that using the technique above, I now have a dry pair of waders and it only took a few days to repair. If you have the time, most wader companies will offer to do repairs. You will have to be patient. Or you can give it a try and do it yourself.

One pro tip that I read says to store your Aquaseal in the freezer.

When you want to use it, put it in warm water to heat up. I can’t tell you if this works or not because I just put it in a Ziploc bag and put it in the freezer. I haven’t needed to use it since my initial repair.

Good luck and hope to see you on the river!

Is duck hunting best in the morning or evening? If you ask different hunters, you’ll get different answers as to when the best time of day to duck hunt is. Some swear that the crack of dawn presents the best opportunity of the day – while others claim you’ll never go home empty-handed if you hunt in the evening. There are even some people who claim the middle of the day is the sweet spot.

The morning vs mid-day vs evening debate is one of the most hotly contested among duck hunters. That’s why today, we’re going to weigh all sides of the argument to present you with our unbiased take. You’ll learn if there really is the best time of day to duck hunt – and if so, whether it is in the morning, afternoon, or evening. Let’s get right into the debate!

Is There Really A Best Time Of Day To Duck Hunt?

Most duck hunters have their personal preferences as to when the best time to hunt ducks is. But is there really any difference in conditions from morning to afternoon to evening? As a matter of fact, there are some advantages that different times of day have over others.

For example – you have more hours to hunt in the morning compared to the evening. However, those who prefer evening hunts will point to the lack of energy and focus you have if you wake up at 3 am. Meanwhile, those who prefer to hunt in the evening claim that the afternoon winds present the perfect conditions to push birds down into your decoys for a rest.

As you can imagine, though, you may also experience certain disadvantages depending on what time of day you hunt. We’ll be sure to cover those as well as we make our way through this debate so you have the full picture.

But before we get into the pros and cons of hunting ducks at different times of day, we want to provide you with a few key pieces of information. First and foremost, you must be aware of legal shooting hours in your specific region. Most of the time, you cannot hunt ducks until it is light outside. This means you are going to be limited to certain hours of the day. With that said, let’s get into the morning vs afternoon vs evening debate.

So, Is Duck Hunting Better In The Morning Or Evening?

So, is duck hunting better in the morning or evening? Or does the afternoon shift take the cake? The fact of the matter is that you can enjoy a successful hunt in the morning, afternoon, and evening. It really just comes down to your unique preferences.

To help you plan out your next hunting time, we’ll explain the advantages each time of day offers. Stick around to the very end and we’ll give you our personal opinion on when you should hunt. Let’s kick things off by making a case for the morning shift in your duck blind:

Advantages Of Duck Hunting In The Morning

There is a strong case for the morning shift as the premier time of day for hunting. Here’s why:

• More hunting hours – The earlier you start in the day, the longer you’ll have to hunt. Getting to your blind at 4 am and preparing your decoys, then patiently waiting for legal shooting hours is your best bet to reach your bird limit that day.
• Feeding at sunrise – One of the main feeding times for ducks and other waterfowl is at first light. They’ll leave their roosts and head to a water source to locate food – and you’ll be there waiting to say good morning to them!
• You can still make use of the rest of your day – In favorable conditions and with a bit of luck, you can reach your limit in the first few hours of the day by starting at first light. That means you can still make use of your afternoon and evening. And if you’ve got a job to get to, you can still hunt in the mornings on weekdays without calling out.
• Adjust your blind/decoys throughout the day – If you start in the morning, you can afford to make changes to your blind location/decoy set up as the day goes on. If you are hunting in the afternoon or evening, however, you won’t have the time to make changes on the fly.

All things considered, hunting in the morning is a great choice. There are a few drawbacks, however. First and foremost, you’re going to have to get up early. You need to have your entire blind and decoy strategy in place before first light. If you’re not a morning person, this may be worth noting.

It’s also important to note that you need a good breeze to guide ducks to your shooting zone. In the mornings, you may not get the strong wings you need for this. Furthermore, the morning sun can really affect your vision if conditions are just right (or, perhaps wrong).

Advantages Of Duck Hunting In The Middle Of The Day

We’re not going to lie – we don’t really encourage many hunters to go out in the middle of the day. In our opinion, the debate is really between mornings vs evening. Unless, of course, this is your only option. If you can’t bring yourself to wake up early, and you need to be home for an early dinner, here are the benefits you’ll enjoy of your mid-day hunt:

• Winds pick up in the afternoons – Remember that wind factor we were just discussing? Well, winds tend to pick up as the day goes on, tapering off as the sun goes down. That means you’ll catch those later divers that don’t even start flying until late morning or early afternoon.
• Perfect conditions for jump-shooting wood ducks – If you’re after wood ducks or geese, you’ll find that the afternoon shift presents the ideal conditions for jump-shooting. As ducks finish their morning meal and are preparing to head out until dinner, you can take your shot.

Advantages Of Duck Hunting In The Evening

When it comes to duck hunting in the evening, you’ll find all sorts of advocates claiming that it’s the ideal time. Here’s why:

• Sleep in – Perhaps the most obvious benefit of hunting in the evening is that you get to sleep in, enjoy a nice breakfast, get some work done around the house, and still get out to set up your blind and decoys before the birds flock in. You’ll be fully alert and firing on all cylinders.
• Feeding in the evening – As the sun goes down and temperatures drop, birds will flock back to their water for one last feeding for the day before heading to the roost. This is where you can make a killing as a hunter – literally. Once they’re done feeding they’ll head out for the evening – presenting another great opportunity.

The biggest drawback to hunting ducks in the evening is that your window for legal shooting time is going to be small. Sometimes, you may only have a 15-minute period from when ducks are flying into your shooting zone to the point when you can no longer legally shoot. It sucks spending all that time preparing just to come up empty-handed – but that is the reality for many evening duck hunters.

The Best Time Of Day To Duck Hunt: Our Verdict

All this considered, you’re probably starting to lean towards one particular time of day as the best choice for you. As we mentioned, it will come down to personal preference. And, there are many other factors to consider as well. You should also take into account the weather, the time of year, and other conditions.

With that said, our preferred time of day to hunt is in the morning. It presents the best opportunity to fill your bag and meet your limit. However, there is really no bad time to hunt!

Final Thoughts On The Best Time Of Day To Duck Hunt

Want to learn more about what it takes for a successful hunt? Our beginner’s guide on how to start duck hunting is an amazing introductory resource. We also have an essential duck hunting gear list you should check out so you can be prepared for any conditions.

No matter what time of day you decide to hunt, be sure you have all the duck hunting gear you need for a successful, comfortable, and most importantly, safe hunt. At Texas Fowlers, we’ve got everything you need at the best prices online. From waterfowl jackets to duck hunting bibs, big and tall waders, and even other duck hunting accessories or duck hunting bags. Experience all we have to offer and shop today.

If you have damage to your neoprene stockingfeet use these tips to find and repair the hole. Neoprene stockingfeet on fishing waders can get punctured by things such as stepping on sharp rocks or gravel or from using worn out boots causing puncures or abrasion. Old worn out boots will damage neoprene stockingfeet when the liner is worn down and sharp edges are exposed. This can lead to damage on the top, toe, or bottom of the stockingfoot. Repairs are fairly easy and will hold up well if done correctly.

What you’ll need:

• A water source for testing and somewhere dry to hang the waders.
• Regular Aquaseal (not UV) or Aquaseal NEO.
• Masking tape or Tenacious Tape.
• Cardstock or a business card and latex gloves.

Step by step instructions for repairing fishing wader neoprene stockingfeet

Find the hole. The first step is to look for differences in the area that seems to be letting water through. If you can see an indentation, or abrasion in the neoprene is a good indication that something is wrong in that spot. A surefire way to test the feet is to turn the waders inside out and fill the feet with water. Usually hanging the waders while doing this is the easiest way to control the flow of water when filling the inside. If there is a hole you’ll see water dripping out of it.

Next step; Fix the hole. Once the waders are dry this can be accomplished simply by rubbing a small amount of Aquaseal or Aquaseal NEO into the hole, making sure to rub it into the hole so that it fills the inside of the hole. We recommend backing the inside with some masking tape or Gearaid Tenacious Tape, and then filling the hole from the outside. Once it’s full and Aquaseal fills the hole apply a thin layer out to about 1/4-1/2″ on all sides of the hole. We like to apply a small piece of Tenacious Tape over the Aquaseal at this point, which will be removed later, to make a clean and smooth exterior to the patch.

Final step; Go fishing!

Popular DRYFT wading products

What is the AuthentX Craze? It’s a new sensation sweeping fish nation…walleye and sauger love plastic! And B Fish N Tackle AuthentX Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s, Ringworms, Paddletails and K-Grubs are what you need to drive them sauger and walleye CRA-ZEE! In our opinion these are the best plastics for walleye. But don’t take our word for it, try our five best tips.

Are you fishing where the walleyes are?

But Walt, I bought a bag of your miracle AuthentX soft plastics and can’t catch a fish on them. What am I doing wrong?

First off, you need to go fishing right now on a river with a known population of walleye and sauger. All major rivers of the Great Lakes plus, the Mississippi, Illinois, Missouri, Rock, Fox, St’ Croix, Rainy, Flambeau, Cedar, Iowa…you get the idea…look on a map, find a walleye river and go fishing!

If you want to learn how to catch fish…you need to go to where the fish are, in abundance. Right now the best walleye fishing is where there is an abundance of fish. That’s in the rivers.

How do I find the right spot?

Those river fish are going to be in pre-spawn, spawn or post-spawn right now…they are going to travel right up to the dam and are stacked up like cordwood or they are staging downriver to about five miles. If you want to learn how to catch them quickly…hire a guide!

If you want to figure it out yourself, watch other walleye anglers and see at what depths and areas they are fishing without getting on top of them and messing with their spot. Then find another area just like it and give it a try!

Then try my TOP FIVE ways to fish a jig rigged with AuthentX plastic baits, get the net ready!

Here are the Top Five AuthentX Plastic Techniques, in No Particular Order

Rippin’ Ribb-Finn’s

Some call it Rippin’, others it’s snap jigging and some even call it getting radical. Whatever you call it…it works. It works on aggressive fish, it works on negative fish, but why? Gettin’ radical triggers the walleye’s innate response to it’s natural phenomenon! Actually, I just made that up to see if you were paying attention, I really don’t know why, I am not a scientist.

Gettin’ radical calls for a reaction strike on the part of the fish. It sees Ribb-Finn, it eats Ribb-Finn and rod bends. Speaking of rods I prefer a St. Croix 6’8″ Eyecon Snap Jig rod for all my jig fishing…especially when I’m getting radical. The extra fast rod tip lets me make a good snapping motion and the sensitivity gets the nod for a quick hook set.

To rip a Ribb-Finn or any jig and plastic for that matter, make a cast, let it hit bottom and give it a quick wrist flick of about 6″ to 12,” hold your rod until the jig settles back down and then reel in the slack. Repeat a few more casts with this action. Then, if you don’t get any takers, make a bigger sweep of the rod up to two feet, reel in slack, big sweep…etc.

The key to rippin Ribb-Finn’s is to vary your cadence, try different ripping motions and then repeating what works. This is pretty much how you fish any lure. Once you figure out the action that attracts a fish to snatch your lure, you will have success on the day!

Swingin’ Moxi’s

Some call it swingin’, some call it working the shift. Call it what you want, you can use this technique from boat or shore.

Cast slightly upstream and let your H20 Jig/Moxi combo slide downstream in a controlled drift ticking bottom once in a while. If you use too heavy of a jig, you will snag up. Too light of a jig moves too fast and is out of the attack zone.

When your jig gets to the back of the boat or end of your cast and starts to swing around is usually when a strike occurs. If you don’t get a strike then slowly begin reeling back in. Pause every so often as a fish will often follow it back to the boat or right up to you near shore. I’ve had fish strike in inches of water from shore in the Spring…so be ready to set the !!broken!!

Having the right “feel” is when you go from a guy fishing to a guy catching. Look around at the other anglers on shore or in boats around you. Catching walleye requires skill.

There is always one guy in a boat that catches most of the fish or in a group of shore fisherman, there is always a guy. The key is to gather enough time on the water catching fish to be that guy.

Draggin’ Pulse-R’s

Power dragging involves use of the B Fish N Draggin’ Jig. James Holst and Dave Coons of In- Depth Outdoors TV perfected this technique on the Mississippi River, but it works everywhere. You can pick up a Draggin’ Jig kit with a FREE DVD on how to do it right here.

And here is a quick clip from In-Depth Outdoors to check out on Mississippi River Draggin’

Dubuque Rigging Ringworms

Dubuque rigging rules! Dubuque rigging offers endless possibilities. You can double rig ringworms, use different styles of AuthentX plastic, use plastic on one jig and live bait on the other, you get the idea!

Running your main line to rod to a three-way swivel to a short line to your jig gets to bottom. Then by running a longer line off the 3rd end or the three-way to a lighter jig or a plain hook allows you to run a different type of bait of plastic so you can determine what the hot color and bait is for the day. It’s a great way to figure out an area quickly.

Getting Vertical with AuthentX

Vertical jigging is by far one of the best ways devised by man to catch a walleye or sauger. The late great walleye pros Gary Gray and Tommy Skarlis were two of the best vertical jiggers I’ve personally ever fished next to.

A great vertical jig fisherman can use the absolute lightest jig imaginable that will still remain in contact with the bottom. I’d be jigging with a 1/4 ounce jig in the Illinois River barely feeling bottom and Tommy would be in the boat next to me catching fish with a 1/16th ounce jig, Tommy was a jigging machine!

The key to vertical jigging is matching boat speed to jig speed to current speed. The river speed changes constantly, your jig speed needs to match the current speed and you then adjust your boat speed to match your jig speed.

This is easier with a heavy jig. You can use a 1 to 2 ounce jig and pull upstream or if the current is really fast, over 3 mph you may need to jig slowly downstream. But a larger jig might be too heavy for light biters. In this case you lighten your jig and slide faster downstream while trying to keep you jig vertical and in pace with the current.

AuthentX plastic is great for getting vertical. Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s Ringworms and Paddletails all produce! Each has its own unique action. Sometimes a walleye will want it a little slower, sometimes a little quicker, sometimes big and bulky attraction is best, other times sleek and shiny!

You might have a plan in your head on what to do as you are driving to your spot, but be prepared to switch it up and figure what the fish want on a given day.

Word from the Captain

Finally, Here is veteran Rainy River Guide, Captain Chris Granrud of Chris Granrud Fishing with a quick tip for anglers seeking to catch more fish on plastics:

“Our favorite B fish N tackle plastics vary from the Pulse-R, Moxi and Ringworm. All have specific applications we rely upon. A wide variety of shapes and colors serve the angler well.

A quick guide tip involves nipping down the overall size of the plastic by simply cutting away a small portion of the lead edge of the plastic when encountering either a finicky bite or short strikes.”

How to select the right jig

A common question we receive is what weight jig and/or jig weight should anglers plan on bringing up with them. We prefer to utilize the H20 Precision jigs from B fish N Tackle as it offers an important plastic keeper in the form of a wire that sticks through the plastic and holds the plastic in proper position. This jig also is void of a molded collar that can cause damage to the plastic when lacing it up.

Matching jig head colors with color schematics of the plastic can offer those big walleyes a very nice finished offering. As per proper jig weight this is dependent on the flow of the river, technique being employed and the areas of the river anglers are targeting.

As a rule of thumb an angler wants to have a slight contact with the bottom when working a jig back against the current upon a slight drop of the tip.”

(As a special note this same H20 Precision jig head doubles as a fantastic crawler jig with that same wire keeper holding a piece of crawler in perfect position.)

If you enjoyed this article, you will also like these:

• Enjoy the Beautiful Fall Colors and the Best Fall Walleye Baits!
• Tungsten Jigs: New Age Ice Fishing vs. Old School
• Best Walleye Lures: 2 Hot Techniques: How to Fish a Jig

Best Crappie Baits

Widely abundant across the United States, crappies are one of the most popular fish targeted by many anglers. They can be found in large schools, are relatively easy to catch, and make fantastic table fare. There are a countless number of different baits you can use to catch crappies, but the following list includes the best and most universal lures for targeting this America’s favorite panfish.

Hair Jigs

Hair jigs are one of the best crappie baits out there available for anglers. They continually produced numbers of big crappies all across the country. One benefit to using hair jigs is their effectiveness without having to use live bait. In fact, hair jigs give off more action and will produce more fish when they are not teamed with live bait. Marabou, synthetic, and bucktail hair jigs are all valuable tools to have in your arsenal because they mimic different types of bait and that can be crucial depending on the time of year.

VMC Dominator Marabou Hair Jig

During spring and early summer when crappies are keying in on bugs and other aquatic invertebrates, marabou hair jigs are top producers. Marabou jigs like the VMC Dominator marabou jig in a 1/16-ounce are deadly baits for big crappies, especially during bug hatches. They do a fantastic job imitating invertebrates and other forage that big crappies feed on throughout the spring and summer months. Available in black, white, and brown color options the VMC Dominator marabou jig works in all types of fishing environments for big crappies.

Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special

Designed by longtime fishing legend Al Lindner and the Angling Edge Team, the new Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special is locked and loaded for battle with big slab crappies. This panfish jig features a solid soft plastic body with a feathered tail that ebbs and flows with the slightest rod twitches or water currents. Outfitted with a #2 hook and dressed in the best crappie and panfish colors hand-selected by Al Lindner and the Angling Edge crew, the Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special deserves a home in any crappie angler’s tacklebox.

Northland Gypsi Jig

The Northland Gypsi jig has been a staple for panfish anglers for years and for good reason. Available in a variety of bright, fish-attracting colors its simple yet sleek design tantalizes big slabs into biting. The Gypsi jig can be fish as is, but also works great paired with livebait. This synthetic hair jig gives off a ton a flash and attracts in big crappies from a distance and is available in three sizes 1/64-ounce, 1/32-ounce and 1/16-ounce. The Northland Gypsi jig is a must have for those serious crappie anglers.

Plastics

Today’s crappie plastics come in just about every shape, color, and size imaginable. Plastic also do a fantastic job triggering strikes without the aid of livebait and one of the many benefits of using plastics is their versatility and effectiveness in all different types of fishing scenarios. They’ll catch crappies in shallow, dirty water swamps and are just as effective in deep, clear water lakes. They can be fished in weeds, wood, under docks and any other place else crappies harbor. There is a shape and color for every situation a crappie angler could imagine. The following plastics are the best options out there for crappie anglers.

Lit’l Hustler Tube

The crappie tube is arguably to most used plastic in the country. Its simple design has probably accounted for more crappie catches than any other bait out there. They can be bought in just about every color pattern imaginable, but the classic red body with white legs has been a staple for many crappie anglers. Whether you’re shooting docks on reservoirs in the midwest, spider rigging multiple lines for giants in the deep south, or using forward-facing sonar to cast towards and pick off individual fish suspended over brush the crappie tube is the perfect bait for the job.

Jenko Big T Curly Fry

Tied for first in popularity with the tube, the curly-tailed grub is one of the best crappie baits out on the market. This style of plastic has been a staple for anglers for decades. Similar to the tube, the curly-tailed grub can be found in just about every color imaginable and its tantalizing action is a killer for big crappies.

Big Bite Baits 2″ Crappie Minnr

The Big Bite Baits 2″ Crappie Minnr is a small soft plastic that perfectly imitates a variety of miniature baitfish and minnow species that crappies prey upon year-round! When paired with a small crappie jighead, the Big Bite Baits Crappie Minnr makes a delectable offering that is great for dock shooting, casting at individual or schools of fish with forward-facing sonar and more! Available in a wide variety of colors, this is the perfect plastic for targeting the biggest fish in a school!

Puddle Jumper

One of the best crappie baits for springtime slabs, the Puddle Jumper is a staple for many northern anglers. This plastic gives off a ton of action in the water mimicking invertebrates and other forage crappies feed on. Its unique winged body allows the bait to glide when falling and the tails provide action when suspended above fish. Available in a wide variety of colors the Puddle Jumper is a great option for big crappies.

Hardbaits

They are a couple of hardbaits that make this list because they truly deserve to be in the conversation as one of the best crappie baits. Although they are limited seasonally, both have a time and place and deserve a spot in your tackle box.

Rapala #4 X-Rap

When the conditions are right the #4 Rapala X-Rap is one of the best crappie baits out there. This bait truly shines during the springtime when crappies are moving up shallow in order to spawn. This jerkbait can be fished both in an aggressive “slashbait” technique or with a classic straight retrieve, but ultimately, the angler defines the cadence for maximum effectiveness in any given scenario. Measuring 1 1/2 inches long and available in ultra-realistic baitfish patterns it’s the perfect bait for big crappies!

Northland Puppet Minnow 1/8 Ounce

Designed originally for ice fishing the Northland Puppet Minnow has proven itself in open-water scenarios. This bait shines in deep water situations when it’s fished vertically, particularly in fall. The Northland Puppet Minnow mimics small baitfish and is available in a wide variety of natural and UV colors. It’s darting, erratic action is irresistible for big crappies!

SEASONS

OPENING DATE

CLOSING DATE

DAILY LIMIT

Dove (Mourning and Eurasian-collared)

Sept. 1, 2022

Dec. 10, 2022

Nov. 6, 2022

Jan. 1, 2024

15

EARLY: Canada Goose

Sept. 3, 2022

Sept. 11, 2022

5

EARLY: Teal

(Blue-winged, Green-winged, & Cinnamon)

Sept. 3, 2022

Sept. 18, 2022

6

Rail (Virginia, Sora)

Sept. 1, 2022

Nov. 9, 2022

25

Gallinules

Sept. 1, 2022

Nov. 9, 2022

15

Wilson’s Snipe

Sept. 1, 2022

Dec. 10, 2022

Nov. 23, 2022

Jan. 1, 2024

8

American Woodcock

Oct. 8, 2022

Nov. 21, 2022

3

Hunting hours are sunrise to sunset, unless posted.

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service sets the frameworks for waterfowl and other migratory game birds. Migratory bird hunting is governed by both state and federal regulations. Wa- terfowl hunting is permitted when seasons are open during the youth deer gun season, the deer gun season, and the deer muzzleloader season. The possession limit for wa- terfowl and migratory birds after the second day is three times the daily bag limit.

OPENING DAY OF A SEASON

No person on the opening day of the season shall possess any freshly killed migratory game birds in excess of the daily bag limit, or aggregate daily bag limit, whichever applies.

MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

To hunt migratory birds in Ohio, you must have the following:

• A valid Ohio hunting license.
• Harvest Information Program (HIP) certification.

In addition to the requirements above, to hunt waterfowl in Ohio, you must also have the following:

• An Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp en- dorsement is required of all persons 18 or older.
• A signed federal Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp (Duck Stamp) is required of all persons age 16 and older.

HIP SURVEY

All hunters, including landowners, who plan to hunt migratory game birds, includ- ing mourning doves, ducks, geese, wood- cock, rails, coots, and snipe must have a Harvest Information Program (HIP) certi- fication number on their hunting license. To complete the HIP certification require- ment, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447- 6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey questions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting.FEDERAL REGULATIONS AND FEDERAL MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING STAMP (DUCK STAMP)

Federal regulations relating to migratory game birds are located in Title 50, Code of Federal Regulations, Part 20.

For additional information on federal regu- lations, go to fws.gov or ecfr.gov

Hunters should know:

• Federal Duck Stamps are valid from July 1 through the following June 30.
• You must sign the front of your Duck Stamp in order for it to be valid. Remem- ber: only you may use your Federal Duck Stamp.
• If you bought an E-Stamp, you must carry your 45-day receipt with you at all times while hunting. Once the receipt has expired, you must carry your current, signed Federal Duck Stamp. If you pur- chased your E-Stamp at a retail store, you must carry the E-Stamp/45-day receipt. Your purchase/credit card receipt from the store is not valid as a Duck Stamp.

Hunters 16 years of age and older are re- quired to purchase this stamp to hunt waterfowl. These stamps are available at many U.S. post office branches, usps.com, or duckstamp.com.

The E-Stamp available through duckstamp. com is valid immediately for up to 45 days with the receipt of the e-stamp purchase.

OHIO WETLANDS HABITAT STAMP

The Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp will not be issued at the time of purchase. A li- cense will be issued stating Ohio Wetlands Stamp. The stamp will be mailed later in the year. The stamp does not need to be carried while hunting.

MILITARY WATERFOWL HUNTING

Active duty military and veterans may hunt waterfowl on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Bag limits are the same as the regular season. Active duty military and veterans and youth may hunt waterfowl together during this spe- cial season.

The hunter must be a veteran or a member of the armed forces on active duty.

YOUTH WATERFOWL HUNTING

Hunters 17 years old or younger may hunt waterfowl statewide (on public and private lands) on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Ducks, geese, and coots may be taken under bag limits established for the regular season. Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sun- rise to sunset.

NONTOXIC SHOT

No person may take ducks, geese (including brant), rail, snipe, gallinules, or coots while possessing shot (either in shotshells or as loose shot for muzzleloading) other than ap- proved nontoxic shot. For a list of approved nontoxic shot, see fws.gov.

OPENING DAY OF A SEASON

No person on the opening day of the season shall possess any freshly killed migratory game birds in excess of the daily bag limit, or aggregate daily bag limit, whichever applies.

MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

To hunt migratory birds in Ohio, you must have the following:

• A valid Ohio hunting license.
• Harvest Information Program (HIP) certification.

In addition to the requirements above, to hunt waterfowl in Ohio, you must also have the following:

• A Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp endorsement is required of all persons 18 or older.
• A signed federal Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp (Duck Stamp) is required of all persons age 16 and older.

HIP SURVEY

All hunters, including landowners, who plan to hunt migratory game birds, includ- ing mourning doves, ducks, geese, wood- cock, rails, coots, and snipe must have a harvest information program (HIP) certi- fication number on their hunting license. To complete the HIP certification require- ment, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447-6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey questions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting

WATERFOWL SEASONS

OPENING DATE

CLOSING DATE

DAILY LIMIT

Youth Waterfowl Season

Sept. 30, 2024

Oct. 1, 2024

Same as the regular season

Military Waterfowl Season

Sept. 30, 2024

Oct. 1, 2024

Same as the regular season

LAKE ERIE MARSH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 14, 2024

Nov. 4, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Dec. 17, 2024

GEESE

5 combined: Canada goose, white-fronted goose, and no more than 1 brant.

10 combined: snow goose, blue goose, Ross’s goose.

DUCKS

The daily bag limit is 6 ducks, which may include no more than 4 mallards (only 2 hens),

3 wood ducks, 2 redheads, 2 canvasbacks, 1 pintail, 2 black ducks, or 1 mottled duck. One scaup during the first 15 days of the season; two scaup during the next 45 days.

MERGANSERS & COOTS

5 mergansers (only 2 hooded), and 15 coots.

Dec. 31, 2024

Feb. 4, 2024

LAKE ERIE MARSH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 14, 2024

Nov. 4, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Dec. 17, 2024

NORTH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 11, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Feb. 5, 2024

NORTH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 11, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

DEC. 31, 2024

SOUTH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 18, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Feb. 12, 2024

SOUTH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 21, 2024

Dec. 9, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Jan. 28, 2024

Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sunrise to sunset during the regular waterfowl season, unless posted.

OHIO WETLANDS HABITAT STAMP

The Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp will not be issued at the time of purchase. A license will be issued stating Ohio Wetlands Stamp. The stamp will be mailed later in the year. The stamp does not need to be carried while hunting.

FEDERAL REGULATIONS AND FEDERAL MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING STAMP (DUCK STAMP)

Federal regulations relating to migratory game birds are located in Title 50, Code of Federal Regulations, Part 20.

For additional information on federal regulations, go to fws.gov or ecfr.gov

Hunters should know:

• Federal Duck Stamps are valid from July 1 through the following June 30.
• You must sign the front of your Duck Stamp in order for it to be valid. Remember: only you may use your Federal Duck Stamp.
• If you bought an E-Stamp, you must carry your 45-day receipt with you at all times while hunting. Once the receipt has expired, you must carry your current, signed Federal Duck Stamp. If you purchased your E-Stamp at a retail store, you must carry the E-Stamp/45-day receipt. Your purchase/credit card receipt from the store is not valid as a Duck Stamp.

Hunters 16 years of age and older are required to purchase this stamp to hunt waterfowl. These stamps are available at many U.S. post office branches, usps.com, or duckstamp.com.

The E-Stamp available through duckstamp. com is valid immediately for up to 45 days with the receipt of the e-stamp purchase.

MILITARY WATERFOWL HUNTING

Active duty military and veterans may hunt waterfowl on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Bag limits are the same as the regular season. Active duty military and veterans and youth may hunt waterfowl together during this spe- cial season.

The hunter must be a veteran or a member of the armed forces on active duty.

YOUTH WATERFOWL HUNTING

Hunters 17 years old or younger may hunt waterfowl statewide (on public and private lands) on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Ducks, geese, and coots may be taken under bag limits established for the regular season. Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sun- rise to sunset.

NONTOXIC SHOT

No person may take ducks, geese (including brant), rail, snipe, moorhens, or coots while possessing shot (either in shotshells or as loose shot for muzzleloading) other than approved nontoxic shot. For a list of approved nontoxic shot, see fws.gov.

DOVE HUNTING

Hours for dove are sunrise to sunset. Doves may be hunted with lead shot. Dove field maps are available at wildohio.gov.

Doves may be hunted on areas that have been manipulated (for example, mowed or bush-hogged) for wildlife management purposes, in addition to areas that have been planted or harvested in a normal ag- ricultural manner. Neither waterfowl nor doves may be hunted on areas where grain or other feed has been distributed once it has been removed from or stored on the field where grown. Contact a Division of Wildlife district office or a state wildlife of- ficer for clarification on baiting regulations before you hunt.

Harvest Information Program (HIP) certi- fication is required to dove hunt. To com- plete the HIP certification requirement, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447-6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey ques- tions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting.

TAGGING REQUIREMENT

No person shall put or leave any migratory game birds at any place (other than at his personal abode), or in the custody of another person for picking, cleaning, processing, shipping, transportation, or storage (includ- ing temporary storage), or for the purpose of having taxidermy services performed, unless such birds have a tag attached, signed by the hunter, stating their address, the total number and species of birds, and the date such birds were killed. Migratory game birds being transported in any vehicle as the personal baggage of the possessor shall not be considered as being in storage or temporary storage.

ADDITIONAL REGULATIONS

It is legal to take migratory game birds including waterfowl and coots on or over the following lands or areas that are not otherwise baited areas:

• Standing crops or flooded standing crops (including aquatics);
• Standing, flooded, or manipulated natural vegetation; flooded harvested croplands; or lands or areas where seeds or grains have been scattered solely as the result of a normal agricultural planting, harvesting, post-harvest manipulation, or normal soil stabilization practice;
• From a blind or other place of concealment camouflaged with natural vegetation;
• From a blind or other place of conceal- ment camouflaged with vegetation from agricultural crops, as long as such cam- ouflaging does not result in the exposing, depositing, distributing, or scattering of grain or other feed; or
• Standing or flooded standing agricultural crops where grain is inadvertently scat- tered solely as a result of a hunter entering or exiting a hunting area, placing decoys, or retrieving downed birds.

ILLEGAL HUNTING METHODS

NO PERSONS SHALL TAKE MIGRATORY GAME BIRDS:

1. With a crossbow, trap, snare, net, rifle, pistol, swivel gun, shotgun larger than 10 gauge, punt gun, battery gun, machine- gun, fish hook, poison, drug, explosive, or stupefying substance;
2. From or by means, aid, or use of a sinkbox or any other type of low-floating device, having a depression affording the hunter a means of concealment beneath the surface of the water;
3. From or by means, aid, or use of any motor vehicle, motor-driven land conveyance, or aircraft of any kind;
4. From or by means of any motorboat or other craft having a motor attached, or any sailboat, unless the motor has been completely shut off and/or the sails furled, and its progress therefrom has ceased;
5. By the use or aid of live birds as decoys; although not limited to, it shall be a vio- lation of this paragraph for any person to take migratory waterfowl on an area where tame or captive live ducks or geese are present unless such birds are and have been for a period of 10 consecutive days prior to such taking, confined within an enclosure which substantially reduces the audibility of their calls and totally conceals such birds from the sight of wild migratory waterfowl;
6. By the aid of baiting or on or over any baited area.
7. With any device that emits recorded or electrically amplified bird calls or sounds, or recorded or electrically amplified imi- tations of bird calls or sounds. It is illegal to possess such devices while hunting waterfowl in Ohio;
8. By means or aid of any motor driven land, water, or air conveyance, or any sailboat used for the purpose of or resulting in the concentrating, driving, rallying, or stirring up of any migratory bird;

LEGAL WATERFOWL & MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING EQUIPMENT

SEASONEQUIPMENT

WATERFOWL AND MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

Shotgun: 10 gauge or smaller shotgun using nontoxic shot, includes muzzleloading shotguns. In order to huntmigratory game birds, your shotgun cannot be capable ofholding more than three shells, unless it is plugged with aone-piece filler incapable of removal without disas- sembling the gun.

Only nontoxic shot may be used to take waterfowl, rail, snipe,and com- mon gallinule. Dove and woodcock may be takenwith lead shot.

Longbow: This includes compound bows and recurve bows.

In recreational angling, the largemouth bass is king. No other species has an international following as massive and as dedicated as that of the largemouth bass.

Their global distribution, accessibility to anglers of all socio-economic levels, and renowned game fish characteristics have morphed the largemouth bass from simply a fish to a globally recognized icon of recreational angling.

Due to the historic and widespread popularity of the species, it should come as no surprise that obtaining a world record largemouth bass is nearly impossible. Nearly.

The following catches represent the biggest, most impressive and envied world records ever granted for largemouth bass.

George Perry | Montgomery Lake, GA

The All-Tackle record for largemouth bass is the most sought after game fish record in the world. It is the “holy grail” of fishing records. George Perry has held this prestigious title for nearly 83 years, since he pulled his massive 22-pound, 4-ounce fish from Montgomery Lake, Georgia on June 2, 1932.

Perry, a 20-year-old farmer at the time, decided to go fishing with longtime friend Jack Page. The two were taking turns with a single rod and reel, casting a Creek Chub Fintail Shiner from the wooden Jon boat Perry had built.

An interview from 1973 recorded Perry saying, “I thought I had hooked a log, but then the log started moving.”

After skillfully playing the fish out of a half-submerged treetop, Perry finally boated the fish which was bigger than anything he or Page had ever seen.

The two immediately beached the boat and headed for town. Later that day, the fish officially weighed in at 22 pounds, 4 ounces and soon after became the new benchmark for record chasing anglers around the world.

Seventy-seven years would pass before a fish comparable to Perry’s monster would be caught, but it has still yet to be surpassed.

Manabu Kurita | Lake Biwa, Japan

However, Perry’s sole ownership of this most prestigious record came to an end on July 2, 2009 when Japanese angler Manabu Kurita pulled his own 22-pound, 4-ounce largemouth from Lake Biwa in central Japan, after it ate a live bluegill that he had on for bait.

Although it occurred halfway around the world from where Perry’s fish was landed, news of the historic catch spread like wildfire through the angling world. And as word spread, so did the doubts.

After all, landing a fish that millions of anglers had pursued for nearly a century is not something to be taken lightly. As such, every detail of the catch and its submission was done under a microscope.

The IGFA and Japanese Game Fishing Association (JGFA) even went as far as to administer a polygraph test on Kurita to ensure the catch and submission was done by IGFA rules.

After months of rigorously reviewing the application, the IGFA granted Manabu Kurita his share of the “holy grail” a tie for the coveted All-Tackle largemouth bass world record with George Perry.

Raymond Easley | Lake Casitas, CA

When Raymond Easley caught his historic 21-pound, 3-ounce largemouth on March 4 1980, it was the largest bass anyone had recorded since George Perry’s All-Tackle monster in 1932.

On that morning, Easley was fishing Lake Casitas, California with a few buddies who were inexperienced anglers. While demonstrating how to properly fish a live crawfish in the relatively deep water, Easley’s bait got crushed and he came tight on the fish of a lifetime.

After a quick fight, Easley had the fish weighed in on a certified scale not far from the lake. Shortly after, the catch became the men’s 8-pound line class world record a record that still stands today.

At the time of the catch, Easley’s fish was the second heaviest largemouth ever recorded, trailing only Perry’s All-Tackle record.

The catch sent shockwaves through the angling community and renewed the hopes of anglers everywhere about having a chance at catching the next world record largemouth, especially anglers in southern California.

Robert Crupi | Castaic Lake, CA

While George Perry’s name is revered and envied among bass anglers, and rightfully so, there is one angler whose name deserves equal respect and recognition Robert Crupi

Most bass anglers dream of a chance at catching just one world record in their lifetime, Crupi has four to his name. Not to mention that three of those records were caught in just a year’s time! Not a bad year at all.

Crupi’s first world record largemouth would be the fish of a lifetime for any other angler a 21-pound lunker that he pulled from the renowned Castaic Lake in Southern California on March 9, 1990.

Crupi, now a retired LA policeman, has been a regular on Lake Castaic since 1977.

In fact, Crupi fished the same spot in the lake for five days prior to landing this fish, which he coerced with a live crawdad he was fishing in 36- to 40-feet of water.

Although he had caught several large fish in his life, Crupi had never seen one this big. The fish was successfully landed, weighed-in, and shortly after became the men’s 12-pound line class record.

At the time, this was the third heaviest largemouth ever recorded by the IGFA. And Crupi was just getting started.

Christmas came three days late for Robert Crupi in 1990. On the morning of December 28, 1990, Crupi was fishing his usual spots on Castaic Lake, working a crippled herring jig in about 40 feet of water after marking some fish on his electric paper graph (an old school sounder).

After catching several crappie and smallmouth bass, Crupi dropped the jig down again, but this time he hooked something big. The fish effortlessly stripped the 4-pound monofilament off his reel, and stayed deep for approximately 15 minutes.

Finally, the fish surfaced about 50 yards from the boat and Crupi realized what he had been fighting. Fishing alone, Crupi managed to net and land the fish by himself, which became his second world record, this time in the men’s 4-pound line class category.

A couple months later and almost exactly a year after landing his first world record largemouth Crupi was back on Castaic Lake the morning of March 12, 1991.

This time he pulled an incredible 22-pound lunker from the lake using a live crawdad and utilizing the same technique he had employed for the record fish he caught the year before.

Crupi only needed three minutes to land the fish, which he netted himself as he was again fishing alone. Immediately knowing he had something special, Crupi put the fish in his livewell and raced back to the docks, later to be weighed in at a nearby deli & liquor store on a certified scale.

Noticing that the fish was a spawning female and full of eggs, Crupi returned the fish to the livewell after it was officially weighed in, and eventually released the fish at the same spot he pulled it from the water earlier that morning.

This catch earned Crupi the men’s 16-pound line class record, and once again, the third heaviest bass ever recorded by the IGFA to this day.

Dan Kadota | Castaic Lake, CA

Robert Crupi isn’t the only angler that has capitalized on the incredible largemouth fishery of California’s famed Castaic Lake.

In fact, Dan Kadota pulled his 19-pound monster from Castaic a year before Crupi began his stretch of incredible record catches. On the chilly morning of January 8, 1989, Kadota struck out early with hopes of catching big largemouth. And he was not disappointed.

While fishing a live crawfish along the bottom, Kadota hooked into his record catch, which he netted and boated approximately five minutes later.

The fish eventually became the men’s 20-pound line class record, where it still remains today.

Larry Kuroaski | Castaic Lagoon, CA

Angler Larry Kurosaki caught a 16-pound, 12-ounce lunker while fishing Castaic Lagoon on the morning of February 26, 2009.

While a largemouth of this size is certainly noteworthy, the impressive fact about Kurosaki’s record is that it was caught on fly tackle.

In fact, Kurosaki’s 16-pound, 12-ounce fish is the largest fly caught largemouth ever recorded by the IGFA. Kurosaki coerced the fish to bite a custom tied minnow fly, and skillfully played the fish for five minutes before he landed what would become the men’s 8-pound tippet class record.

Kurosaki was prepared with a portable certified scale, and quickly weighed and documented the fish on shore, before he released it alive.

Mackenzie Hickox | Daytona Beach, FL

Although the majority of the current world record largemouth bass have come from southern California, Florida is still one of the best places in the US to target trophy largemouth bass.

Places like Lake Okeechobee and Lake Toho are known by bass anglers everywhere, but the largemouth potential in Florida is not limited to these famous haunts.

Any freshwater body of water in Florida has the potential of producing quality bass, due to the climate and the strain of largemouth found in the state.

In fact, Mackenzie Hickox caught her 15-pound, 12-ounce female Junior angler record from the shoreline of a man-made pond, not far from her house in Daytona Beach. Hickox, just 11-years-old at the time, was fishing a Strobe Spinner on May 8, 2006 with her parents, sister and a friend when she hooked into the massive bass.

Once landed, the fish was measured and weighed on a portable scale, which read an incredible 16 pounds. The fish was then released alive to grow even bigger.

Cody Pierce | Lake Murray, CA

Fourteen-year-old Cody Pierce’s Junior Angler world record largemouth, a 17-pound trophy, is a perfect example of the importance of the “last cast”.

On the morning of March 22, 2000, Cody skate-boarded down to the nearby Murray Reservoir outside of San Diego, to sneak in some fishing before heading off to school.

After catching several smaller bass and about to call it a day, Cody made his “last cast” from the shore line and immediately got a bite, but couldn’t stay connected. Realizing that his rubber worm had been cut in half, he quickly put a fresh lure on and re-cast to the same location.

This time, Cody hooked up and stayed connected to his 17-pound fish which he weighed in at the nearby ranger station, with the help of some older anglers fishing nearby.

Even more impressive is that Cody made the decision to release the fish alive so it could make even more bass for people to catch in the future.

Never give up!

All of these catches, but especially the last two, are exactly why bass fishing is so popular. These young anglers were fishing from shore, close to their homes, with tackle that probably cost no more than $20. The largemouth bass is the “people’s” fish. Sure there are those anglers that spend way too much money on boats that go way too fast, and gear that is way too expensive. But that is not required.

You don’t need big boats to travel hundreds of miles. You don’t need expensive tackle and elaborate rigs.

All you need is a rod and reel, and you too could find your name listed alongside Perry, Crupi, Kurita, and the other anglers lucky enough to catch a world record largemouth bass.

Whether I’m grinding wild game from the hunt, or a whole cow from my local farmer, meat grinder plates allow me to take control and customize your grinds.

Meat grinder plates are circular discs with holes across them, and the texture of the grind depends on size of the holes in the plate.

Depending on what item you’re grinding the meat for, you will need one or more plates to achieve the right texture.

For example, if I’m grinding meat for summer sausages, I use a 2 ½” grinder plate, but I need both 1/4″ & 5/16″ grinder plates to grind meat to make fresh burgers.

What is the Usage of Meat Grinder Plates?

Whether you’re using a manual or electric meat grinder, you will need to load the machine with appropriate grinder plates to produce the final texture.

When you load the food tray of your meat grinder, it is pushed down through the feeding tube, and through the blade, which cuts down the meat.

If you don’t install meat grinder plates, then the grinding results will be thick and not consistent.

After the meat is processed by the blade, it goes through the holes of the grinder plates to give the ground meat coarse or fine texture.

The main and only job of the blade of a meat grinder is to mince the meat, so that it can smoothly go through the grinder plate holes.

Complete Meat Grinder Plate Size Chart

You can use the chart below to find the right meat grinder plate size for your needs.

Grinder Size Number Plate Diameter Hole Diameter Type of Grind Ideal for Grinding Meat for #5 2-1/8″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks #8 2-3/8″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa #8 2-3/8″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 10/12 2-3/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 20/22 3-1/4″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs # 20/22 3-1/4″ 12mm (1/2″) Coarse / first grind Chili and stewed meats # 20/22 3-1/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks # 32 3-7/8″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs and jerky #42 5 1/16″ 4mm Commercial use / coarse Hamburger, salami, summer sausage, pepperoni and bratwurst

What Meat Grinder Plate Sizes Should You Typically Have?

This completely depends on what you will making with the ground meat. If you’re going to be making franks, hamburgers, bologna and beef jerky, 1/8″ or 3/32″ fine grinder plates should be in your arsenal.

You can even make hamburgers and breakfast sausages with 3/16″ or 5/32″ hole size medium grind plates.

For coarse ground meat, that is to make items such as salami, chorizo, bratwurst, sausage, etc., you will need a grinder plate with a bigger hole size such as 1/4″, 5/16″, and 3/8″.

How do I Know What Size Meat Grinder I Have?

The numbers on your meat grinder refer to the size of the grinding head. Depending on the manufacturer, you can find the size of your meat grinder emblazoned on the appliance itself or in the owner’s manual.

In case you cannot find any size number on your grinder plate then just take a measuring tape and measure the diameter of the round plate and also use the same method to measure the diameter of one of the holes. Now use this information to lookup the plat size from the meat grinder plate size chart above.

The most common sizes of meat grinders for home use are #5, 8, 12, 22, and 32, whereas #20, #22, #32, #42 and #52 size meat grinders are mostly used in commercial settings.

Smaller size meat grinders come with smaller feeding tubes, and larger feeding tubes with large size grinders.

If you’re only grinding meat for burgers and sausages, then a smaller size meat grinder will do the job, but if you’re looking to grind wild game several times a year, then you should opt for a larger size meat grinder.

What is the Grinder Plate Size for Sausage?

This depends on the texture of sausages you’re making such as whether you like them with a fine or chewy texture. If you’re grinding meat for bratwurst sausages or summer sausages, you will need coarsely ground meat with a 2 3/4 inches grinder plate.

For chorizo, you will again coarsely grind meat, but this time with a 3 1/4 inches size grinding plate.

But if you’re grinding meat for breakfast sausages, Polish or Italian sausages, you should use a 3/16″ coarse grinding plate and also check out my previous article which covers meat grinder plate sizes for various sausages in detail.

How to Sharpen Meat Grinder Plate?

The grinder plates of a meat tend to get worn out after a period of use, hence need to be sharpened. If you grind with dull plates, great chances are that you won’t get the best texture and consistency from the respective plate.

The best and easiest way to sharpen your meat grinder plates and even knife is with the Sausage Maker sharpening system.

1. Soak the stones in the sharpening system in water for roughly five minutes. You have to be very gentle with them because they can get damaged easily.
2. There are two plates in the pack—one with the square hole is for the knife, and the round hole stone for the grinder plate.
3. If you just want to sharpen the grinder plate, place the stone into the grinder head of the meat grinder first, and then place dull grinder plate over it, and secure them both with the retaining ring, but not too tight.
4. Power on the meat grinder for only five seconds or so, and voila—the grinder is plate is back to new.
5. Now repeat this process for the other side of the grinder plate to ensure both sides are sharpened.

There are other ways to sharpening grinder plates as well such as with a sharpening stone, but these will require a fair bit of elbow grease, so it’s better to do the job effortlessly with the Sausage Make sharpening system.