What location has caught the most blue marlin over 1,000 pounds?

This question was recently posted on social media, and asked everyone around the world to count up the granders (marlin weighing 1,000 pounds or more) caught from their home waters. We wanted to see, statistically, which location would stand out as the best place in the world to catch a grander blue.

Utilizing the Hawaii Fishing News Grander list, we counted up about 144 from Hawaii.

With that in mind, the following may be inexact, but it will give you a pretty dang good idea where the granders were caught in Hawaii:

Big Island: 87Oahu: 43Maui: 7Molokai: 3 (Two were caught the same day!)Kauai: 2

Of all the grander marlin caught in Hawaii, however, three fish stand out as extremely noteworthy catches. These fish include Capt. George Parker’s 1,002-pound blue marlin caught in 1954, the first grander in Hawaii. Capt. Bobby Brown’s 1,376-pound blue caught in 1982, a world record that still stands today. And, the largest marlin ever caught on rod and reel, Capt. Cornelius Choy’s 1,805-pound blue caught in 1970.

The best “Big Fish” months appear to be July with 21 granders, while June and March each have 20. May has tallied 14 granders, with 13 caught in August, 12 landed in April 12 and 10 in September. The winter months of October through February average less than five, but for some reason January posts nine, which offsets the lowest months of November and December, with three each.

June 10, 1970 is an especially notable date because it was on this day that Choy brought in his monster marlin. This year, on June 10 and 11 the Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series will pay homage to Choy’s 1,800-pounder at Leg One of the aeries, The Kewalo Big Fish Chase.

A $75,000 bounty has been placed on Choy’s monster and whoever catches a marlin larger than 1,805 pounds will walk away with the purse. Jungle rules do apply, in deference to the favorite way of fishing by Oahu folks. However the rod and reel must adhere to IGFA tackle specs. This “bounty” is open only to teams entered in the Kewalo Big Fish Chase. There’s also a guaranteed $10,000 purse to be split among the largest marlin, ahi, mahi and ono – on top of the purse generated from the $500.00 per team entry fee.

Rules for the Bounty and the tournament can be found at: http://konatournaments.com/events/kewalo-harbor-big-fish-chase/

HONARABLE MENTION

During the online discussion, folks from all over the world chimed in, but in the end, it was apparent that Hawaii is still the Blue Marlin Grander Capital of the World. Honorable mention went to Madeira, Cape Verde and the Canary Islands. Mauritius was noted as holding the potential to give Hawaii a run for its money, if only it had a large fleet of boats. They estimated 40 granders weighed in Mauritius with the largest weighing 1,430 pounds. Very respectful!

An interesting tidbit from the conversation was that known hot spots that catch large numbers of blue marlin such as St. Thomas, Panama and Costa Rica had very few granders to speak of. That doesn’t discount the great fishing that the offer, with the Costa Rica FAD fishing reporting sometimes 20+ blue marlin a day – from one boat!

Capt. Bomboy Llanes caught a 1,258.4-pound blue marlin back in 2003 at the Firecracker Open tournament, and it was long thought to be the largest marlin ever caught in a tournament. However, Capt. Tim Dean chimed in from Australia and reminded is that he weighed a 1,278-pound black marlin at the Lizard Island Black Marlin Classic.

Therefore, Bomboy had to adjust his claim to having caught the “largest blue marlin in a tournament, anywhere in the world.” Small adjustment for such a big fish, on a world-wide scale.

The story of Molly Palmer went viral back in 2012 when she was fishing in the Big Island Marlin Tournament. She refused to cheat and decided to disqualify a 1,022-pound marlin that was not only the tournament winner but also a potential woman’s world record because of a technicality.

Going in to its 31st year, the eight tournament Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series, the features the return of Taj Mahal and the Hula Blues Band in their only performance for the year. Taj will be taking a break from the TajMo tour with Keb Mo, following the release of their new record “TAJMO” featuring cameos by Bonnie Raitt and more.

Taj had his own tournament in Costa Rica for a few years and loves to fish. Last year at the BIMT he tagged and released a marlin to get back in the groove. This year he has a brand new plan.

For a complete schedule of all eight events in the $1.5 million Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series visit www.konatournaments.com

There are a variety of dog breeds that make excellent hunting dogs. The Labrador Retriever, Mountain Cur, Vizsla, and even the short Beagle, are a few examples of the perfect hunting companion. Although these dogs look completely different in color, size, and structure, they share the same instinctual nature: hunting. A hunting dog needs to have boundless energy to complete the tasks set by its owners. They need good muscle strength and strong bones to catch or retrieve game and walk long distances.

A hunting dog’s diet is vital for them to excel in their abilities and must include plenty of good nutrition. Always take your dog’s energy level, age, sensitivities, and weight into consideration when buying food.

We’ve listed a few great hunting dog food options below complete with in-depth reviews to help you in your search—but remember that due to their high protein and fat content, they’ll lead to weight gain if fed to an inactive dog. You may want to switch your dog’s food when out of hunting season.

A Glance at Our Winners in 2024

The 11 Best Foods for Hunting Dogs

1. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe Subscription Service – Best Overall

Hunting dogs work up quite the appetite in a day’s work. That is why it’s important to choose a hardy dog food that will satisfy their hunger while ensuring they receive the proper nutrients to maintain an active lifestyle. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe is our best overall pick for food for hunting dogs since this recipe is appealing, nutritious, and filling. With a limited ingredient list, starting with real meat proteins (also available in chicken, turkey, or lamb) and fresh vegetables rich in vitamins, minerals, and fiber, you can trust that your dog will be happy and healthy. Ollie’s meals are free of any byproducts or additives and are suitable for all life stages.

Once you complete a short questionnaire about your dog based on its age, weight, breed, and dietary needs, Ollie provides you with customized meal plans. You can also adjust the frequency of your deliveries, which eliminates the risk of running out of stock and last-minute trips to the store.

If you are looking for a dog food rich in antioxidants, that promotes healthy digestion and supports an active lifestyle, look no further than Ollie Dog Food.

Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food has three excellent first ingredients of water buffalo, lamb meal, and chicken meal, resulting in a high protein content of 32% for a low and affordable price, making this our favorite budget food for hunting dogs.

It has a fat content of 18% and contains complex carbs to give your hunting dog the energy they need while keeping them feeling full until its next meal. It contains prebiotics to improve your dog’s gut, resulting in less gas and healthier poop. The omega-3 improves their coat, leaving it soft and shiny. This dog food isn’t every dog’s pick, however, as some simply refuse to eat it.

Puppies need the best, and Adirondack’s dog recipe gives them just that, at an affordable price point. This puppy food is well-balanced and contains 30% protein and 20% fat to develop your pup into a strong and healthy dog that has lean muscles, ready for the hunting grounds.

This tasty meal is slow-cooked to preserve as many nutrients as possible and is free from fillers and artificial flavors. All the ingredients are from the USA and are of high quality. It’s suitable for pups with sensitive tummies and will pack the weight that they’ve lost back on in no time. Kibbles are small, which is great for pups but a struggle for bigger dogs.

Although expensive, ORIJEN Regional Red Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is well-loved by both dogs and owners and has every reason to be at the top of our list as our premium choice. With beef, wild boar, goat, lamb, and lamb liver as the first few ingredients, you already know that this is a meal suited for a high-performance dog, with a 38% protein content. It includes essential vitamins and minerals, with the remaining 85% consisting of animal ingredients.

The kibbles are freeze-dried coated, locking in the fresh, tasty ingredients. Dogs on this kibble often experience better skin and a reduction in rashes and shedding. They often start smelling better, too—from their breath to their odor. The only downsides are the price, and that the bag isn’t resealable.

Specifically designed for hunting dogs is the Inukshuk Professional Dry Dog Food. Due to its 30% protein and 25% fat your dog will receive the high nutrition and high energy necessary for a high-performance lifestyle. It’s also packed with prebiotics and omega-3 fatty acids to keep your dog healthy and their coat flourishing, along with aiding in good joints for their activities.

This kibble is nutrient-dense and contains 578 kcal/cup, which means that you can give your dog everything they need in a smaller serving of food, which ultimately saves you money. Inukshuk is a family-owned business that cares about dogs, and they give you the option to buy straight from them too.

The VICTOR Classic Hi-Pro Plus Formula Dry Dog Food is another great dog food for hunting dogs. 88% of this dog food is made of meat protein, with some of its ingredients being beef meal, pork meal, and chicken meal, giving your dog plenty of nourishing proteins.

It’s also high in fat, with a crude content of 20%, giving your hunting dog the energy they need for high performance. It’s suitable for active puppies and adults, as well as lactating females. It’s also packed with vitamins and minerals to maintain your dog’s health and is highly digestible.

All the ingredients in this product are sourced from the USA, with none of them containing gluten, corn, wheat, or grain. The kibble is small, though, and may prove challenging to eat for large dogs.

Even though the Wellness Core Grain-Free Original Deboned Turkey, Turkey Meal & Chicken Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is pricey, it’s highly worth it and acts as one of the best foods you can get for your hunting dog.

Since it’s made from human ingredients, it’s packed with nutritious value. Most dogs love this food and tend to get upset if you switch from it.

Overall, it’s good for your dog’s coat and gives them a strong muscle tone. If you have the budget for food of this quality, we highly suggest that you do.

Taking it even higher in price is the Purina Pro Plan 30/20 Chicken & Rice Formula Dry Dog Food. We love this food as it is specially made for high-performance dogs, making it a perfect option for hunting dogs.

It’s a high-calorie food that will keep your dog energized and happy. The ingredients put focus on protein, which is the main reason why this food will keep an active dog energized. On top of that, it includes live probiotics that aid in your dog’s health.

Unfortunately, the food’s price has suddenly increased over the past while, leading many people to switch their dogs to something more affordable.

One interesting thing about the Blue Buffalo Wilderness Chicken Recipe Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is that it comes in small kibble sizes. While this may make some dogs frustrated, it’s great for hunting dogs that tend to eat their food incredibly quickly.

We love that it includes healthy carbs in the ingredients from foods such as peas and sweet potatoes. It’s also made with real chicken to help your dog put on lean muscle.

If you do not want small kibbles, you can move on from this particular option but if you’re happy with the kibble size, your hunting dog is sure to love the taste of this food.

Nature’s Logic Canine Duck & Salmon Meal is dog food for puppies and adults that are active in hunting, working, and sporting. It has one of the highest crude protein levels on this list at 38% and contains ingredients such as duck meal, turkey meal, and salmon meal.

This recipe is natural, right down to the packaging that was produced with renewable electricity. There are a couple of kibble options to choose from, allowing you to change your dog’s food up a bit, never giving them the chance to get bored. The price has increased a lot recently, though, which has left a few consistent customers unhappy.

The Holistic Select Adult Health Lamb Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is excellent for picky eaters. Sometimes, all the different flavors can be too much for a sensitive dog, and they may do better on this single-protein dog food. The first three ingredients are lamb meal, oatmeal, and peas, and the rest are made up of probiotics, antioxidants, omega-3, glucosamine, and taurine that protect your dog’s heart and body.

The protein content is less than other dog foods on this list at 23% and a fat content of 15%, but that can be enjoyed on off-seasons when they don’t require as much energy as on the hunting grounds require but enough to keep them active for hiking and other outdoor activities. The downside is that there have been a few quality-control issues around this particular dog food.

Buyer’s Guide: Buying the Best Dog Food for Hunting Dogs

All the dog foods listed above are good, but how do you know they’re good for your dog specifically? Well, you’ll need to make the decision based on your dog’s lifestyle, weight, health issues, and age. If your dog doesn’t have any health concerns, any of these foods will do them well. However, if you’re considering a different food option for your hunting dog, there are a few factors that you should take into consideration.

Protein

First and foremost, your hunting dog needs a high-protein diet. Protein builds strong, lean muscles that give them the force to run, catch, and retrieve game while hunting. Make sure that an animal-derived protein is first on the list of ingredients because it’ll indicate that it’s the most amount ingredient in the product, which is what your hunting dog needs.

Also, look out for dog foods that have the name of the meat at the start of its name, as this indicates that the product will have at least 95% of the ingredients in the product. Venison, chicken, fish, and lamb are good, tasty protein options.

Carbohydrates and Fat

Your dog food should contain around 20% carbohydrates. Carbohydrates provide your dog with energy, but fats do too. Fats offer longer-lasting energy and contain lots of calories. The good fat content will give your hunting dog the energy and endurance they need, produce a healthy coat, and increase wound healing. However, they can increase the risk of obesity.

Avoid Fillers

Many people have a negative understanding of by-products when it comes to dog food; however, most are completely safe and nutritious for your dog. Although they’re not suitable for people to eat, dogs will benefit from them as they come directly from an animal. By-products include the lungs, brain, liver, bone, intestines, etc., that aren’t dangerous to dogs.

Large amounts of fillers, on the other hand, should be avoided. They’re used in place of natural, high-quality ingredients and can lead to health issues, allergic reactions, and problematic weight gain. Most dog foods contain a few fillers, which is okay if they’re near the bottom of the ingredients list. Some fillers, such as rice, are considered “good” fillers, while you should always avoid MSG and syrups.

Energy

The number of calories you should serve your dog is going to depend on their weight and energy levels. During hunting season, your dog will burn more calories and will require more energy to perform well. Even the weather has an impact on their energy levels—if they’re hunting in the cold, they’ll be burning even more calories because their bodies will be working harder to keep them warm.

When your dog isn’t hunting, it won’t require as many calories because it won’t be burning as much energy. Feeding your dog the same number of calories as you fed them during hunting season may result in unhealthy weight gain.

A hunting dog burns more energy than a normal dog and, therefore, requires high-performance food, which differs from normal dog food with its higher protein and fat content.

Final Thoughts

At the top of our list is the Ollie Fresh Dog Food, thanks to the high meat protein and limited, human-grade ingredient list. The best budget dog food on our list is the Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food. It may be cheaper, but it doesn’t skimp on quality.

Remember to use these food options during hunting seasons as the high protein and fat content will cause weight gain if consumed the same way during off-seasons.

Featured Image Credit: Nadezhda Zaitseva, Shutterstock

Having survived prowling predators, the whitetail fawn now matures.

Spring gives way to warm days as the summer season nears. Pesky insects start to dominate the woodlots and open fields. For the young whitetails that survived the pursuit of predators, now their lives of growing into mature deer begin to unfold.

If the parenting female doesn’t reject her offspring, which is usually due to nutritional stress, a hormonal imbalance, inexperienced first-time mothers or disease, then the process of maternal guidance is under way.

The deer fawn, although it possesses certain inborn survival instincts, still takes its lead from its mother. Foremost are concealed bedding sites, which are pre-chosen by the mother. If these locales remain undisturbed, she will use them year after year — especially if she has raised young before.

These bedding sites are essential for the fawn to conserve energy and digest nutrients for growth. The fawn is growing rapidly by now, but it still spends the majority of time bedding.

By its mother’s vocal commands and through scent-bonding, the fawn learns where these sites are within days after birth. Bedding locales, through the mother’s lead, are reinforced. The fawn can also go to bed on its own or by her cue as it matures. Besides nutrition, this aspect of the fawn’s development is crucial as to whether the infant survives and properly matures.

The mother also guides the newborn to specific feeding areas, and of course, the fawn quickly learns where the nutrients are. Besides periodically nursing from its mother, the deer fawn within just a few weeks after birth is able to forage on its own. Yet it’s still dependent on the protein content of its mother’s milk.

Deer researchers have determined that the nourishing milk of whitetails is high not only in protein but fat and vitamins as well. It also possesses colostrum, which is basically an antibiotic to resist disease.

These bedding sites and feeding locales are continually imprinted through the mother’s scent and visual guidance. Along with its inborn instincts for survival, the newborn learns to adapt and survive.

At times, the fawn is highly frisky — darting to and fro from its mother and other deer. Here, the young deer sharpens its skill to evade predators. Also, playful behavior is associated with the social order of deer as well. These behaviors and responses from the herd can determine the fawn’s status within the herd even at a young age. However, this socialization is usually more intense with female fawns than young bucks, which will eventually disperse on their own.

If nutrition and fertility are on course, females can easily give birth to twin fawns. The two youngsters are usually close together, and tend to watch out for one another. Overall, if the doe isn’t a first-time mother, her offspring from previous years will also put their eyes and ears to work — staying keen to predators. Although there are exceptions, this is typically the trend once the fawns are mature enough and accepted into the fold of older deer.

Although a button buck usually stays with its mother during its first year, there are rare situations when the young male unites with a bachelor group of bucks. Otherwise, the button buck stays with the female clan — eventually going out on its own the following year. Also, button bucks can be forced away temporarily by both dominant males and breeding females when procreation calls during the rutting season.

Gradually, the parenting female begins to shun the buck fawn — sometimes kicking and swatting at it when it attempts to nurse. She may even actually kick and charge the young male. Although the infant may stay within her range through the winter, she usually doesn’t show it any maternal attention by then.

A normal buck fawn can be rejected by its mother, yet it can also be naturally inclined to disperse on its own as well. The instinct to procreate drives it to seek out mates. In time, he leaves the doe herd on his own — even if the mother doesn’t drive him off.

Whether the button buck is on its own or within the close-knit clan of its mother and her offspring, it can easily be mistaken for a female deer — especially if antlerless harvest is on the agenda. Here, proper identification of a young male deer is crucial when certain laws are implemented for taking whitetails or if one is practicing QDM. Although it’s currently legal to take a young button buck without a polished antler above the hairline, most hunters want to pass on young males — giving them the opportunity to grow and mature. Simply, button bucks are considered to be an antlerless harvest. However, always check the current regulations to be sure the law hasn’t changed.

A button buck usually stands out from females. Of course, by the end of the summer, most female and male deer fawns have lost their spots. Body formations are a way to distinguish male from female. Young male deer have shorter necks and are somewhat squared in comparison to long-necked does. Usually the female is longer than the button buck. He also tends to wander from the females from time to time, and forages on his own.

Basically the fastest way to determine a button buck is to look for small growth on its forehead where the pedicels are located between its ears. Usually by the fall, some button bucks actually have small, undeveloped antlers protruding up, but are covered by hair. Depending on nutrition and genetics, some button bucks may even sprout a small set of spikes, but this is extremely rare.

The following year is when antler growth becomes more noticeable as the button buck grows and matures into a 1½-year-old antlered deer.

Female fawns usually stay with the doe clan for a couple of years or until they become first-time mothers.

For whitetails to reach maturity and maintain procreation, nutrition and the quality thereof is extremely important. That’s next month’s topic.

Loving the outdoors, wanting to put some food on the table and maybe spending some quality time with friends. These are just some of the reasons people get started with bird hunting.

Upland birds are game birds that including quail, pheasant, grouse, woodcock, prairie chicken or partridge.

Learn from those who know

For first time bird hunters, getting started is as easy as finding a local class covering hunting safety and regulations.

“I always encourage anyone looking to start bird hunting to not pass go,” said Wes Siler, Montana-based outdoorsman, adventure traveler and author of Outside Magazine’s column IndefinitelyWild. “Enroll in a hunters’ education course where you will get the best information on all the hunting basics and safety.”

Many states, Siler said, require successful completion of a hunter safety course before issuing a hunting license. The laws and seasons associated with upland bird hunting vary state to state. Always check with your state’s fish and game commission to know the latest in laws and what is in season.

“Typically this is a one-day class taught by volunteers [and] is equivalent to the drivers ed course you took in high school,” Siler wrote in a recent column. “Even if you’re already familiar with firearms and the outdoors, hunter’s ed is a fantastic refresher in all the nitty-gritty details of remaining legal and safe in the field.

In some states, the course is required to obtain a hunting licence, but even where it’s not mandatory it’s recommended to take one. The course will also answer a number of beginner questions including what are the best types of guns to use and what kind of ammunition works best for specific game birds.

Getting out into the field

Hunter education course certificate and hunting license in hand, it’s time to get out into the field.

“The nice thing about bird hunting is you can find groups of people to hunt with,” Silas said. “Either an informal hunting party of friends or a paid guide can take you out and you can start to put what you learned in [hunter’s ed] into practice.”

Unlike guided big game hunts for animals like deer, bear, moose or elk which Silas said can cost in the thousands of dollars, a guided bird hunt will usually run around $100.

“Having a guide or someone with real experience with you helps you get out for an authentic and fun hunting experience,” Siler said. “A guided bird hunt is really the easiest possible entry point into the sport of hunting.”

What equipment and gear do I need to get started with bird hunting?

As for what to bring on the first hunts? Siler, who’s been hunting since he was a young boy, recommends the basics — a shotgun, ammunition and patience.

“If the weather is good, all you need to wear are jeans, a t-shirt and tennis shoes,” he said.

Silas is a fan of the 12-gauge shotgun for bird hunting that has been outfitted with a “choke-tube.” A choke tube is a tapered attachment for the front of a shotgun barrel, it can be set to shoot the shot from a shell in a narrow to wide, scattered path.

By mixing and matching the type of shot used in individuals shells and the set-path for that shot Siler said you can custom-configure the shotgun to specific birds and terrain, making it a very versatile weapon.

“You can open the choke tube up for a wider spread of shot if your target is close in,” he said. “Or you can set it so the shot’s path is narrow and goes a greater distance.”

John Holyoke, longtime Maine outdoorsman, staff writer and writer of the outdoors column Out There for The Bangor Daily News,and Julie Harris, fellow columnist at the Bangor Daily News with It’s a Bird Dog’s Life, both hunt with .20-gauge shotguns. They recommend wearing at least a blaze orange hat or vest so you are visible in the woods.

Siler agrees wearing either a hat or vest that has blaze orange on it, making you visible to other hunters who are in your group or in the area, is a very good idea.

Harris likes to also wear a vest with pockets into which she can place a whistle, ammunition, a compass and anything else she may need for a day in the woods. Vests can also have a larger pocket in the back to place dressed out birds from a successful hunt.

“I always make sure to have good rubber boots,” she said. “The terrain can get mucky at times.”

Go where the birds are

If bird hunting is the best entry point to hunting, as far as Siler is concerned, grouse are the gateway birds.

“Let’s face it, grouse are pretty stupid,” he said with a laugh. “Their defense when frightened is to stand still and freeze, which makes them a good target for hunting.”

To successfully start hunting upland birds, you first need to find them. And once you understand bird habitat, you are well on your way to spotting the game.

According to Holyoke, successful bird hunters know that upland birds prefer to hang around in good cover made up of scrubby brush and new growth associated with old pastures that are going back to trees.

“These are called ‘successive forestland,’” Holyoke said. “It’s the kind of spot that provides everything the [upland] birds need in terms of habitat.”

When a cover area grows up to the point it no longer meets the needs of the birds, Holyoke said the birds move on to a new spot, so where birds congregate changes over time.

“These covers age-out over time and even more than a favorite fishing spot, the location of active cover area is closely guarded by bird hunters.”

Walking through forestland that has been cut within five or so years, or on old pasture is a good way to come across bird cover and the birds themselves.

Because the birds will likely see you before you spot them, they may not freeze in place. They may attempt to quickly fly away, meaning you have “flushed” it from the cover.

Some hunters, Holyoke said, will only shoot at a bird if it is flying, or “on the wing.” Other hunters, he said, will fire at a bird that is walking or just sitting on the ground.

A bird hunter’s best friend has four paws and a great nose

The single best piece of equipment a bird hunter can have is a good dog, Siler said. For someone starting out, that is often not possible given the time and expense associated with obtaining and training a good bird dog.

“I hunt with friends who have bird dogs,” Siler said, adding his three large rescue dogs love to go on hunts but are far more interested in catching game for themselves. “It’s one reason that when you start out, it’s a good idea to contract with a guide, especially if he or she hunts with dogs.”

Some bird hunters hunt with dogs, who can help locate birds, flush them out and retrieve them. But not all dogs do the same work.

There are “flushing dogs” like the cocker spaniel Holyoke uses, who flush the birds out of cover and into the open.

Then there are the “pointing dogs” like the Brittney Spaniels used by Harris. Her dogs sneak up on the birds, stand still and use their nose and one leg to point out the hidden bird.

Harris said the first step in deciding what kind of dog you want along on a hunt is deciding what you want that dog to do.

Then she said it really comes down to breed preference, Harris said. Though she did add the smaller dogs like the Cocker Spaniels tend to make better indoor pets for those who want their hunting dogs to be part of the family inside and out.

“After you choose what kind of dog you want, make sure you do your homework and research breeders,” she said. “Most have websites and many can be seen and talked to at hunting events and sports shows.”

A bird in the pot

Maybe the best part of bird hunting, after the thrill of the hunt itself, is feasting on the day’s bounty, Siler said.

As far as dressing out those birds — cleaning them after they are shot — Holyoke recommends turning to the internet and checking out the myriad of online videos devoted to that subject.

Then, it’s time to get cooking.

In Maine, Holyoke said, it’s common to simply saute the breast of a grouse or woodcock in butter with a bit of garlic. Others like to parboil and cook the breast meat in a batch of baked beans. Soups and stews are also popular.

Regardless of cooking methods, newcomers to hunting and eating game birds will notice a difference in flavor.

Siler recommends checking the internet for recipes on cooking wild birds.

Over the years, Siler has filled coolers with cheap champagne and brined the birds in it overnight, smoked entire birds, deep fried whole birds in peanut oil and roasted breasts. He’s even prepared a pheasant-au-vin.

“Judging by the amount of people who have tried their first game meat at my house and then asked how they could get started, I’ve done a pretty good job,” he said of his culinary and hunting skills, and adding he tells them, “Becoming a hunters is easier and more fun than you think.”

It’s homesteading skills month on Hello Homestead! Every weekday this month, we’ll be highlighting a skill for living a self-sufficient life. Make sure you LIKE our page on Facebook, FOLLOW on Twitter, FOLLOW us on Instagram and/or sign up for our newsletter so you don’t miss a single one!

By Hampton Bourne

In the late 1990s the spinning-wing decoy crashed onto the duck hunting scene like a tsunami. Two decades later, it has become the most widely used motion decoy, and most hunters have at some point integrated spinners into their decoy spreads. A superstar to some hunters and pariah to others, these decoys have definite strengths and weaknesses.

The first spinning-wing decoy traces its roots to California’s Sacramento Valley. The initial prototype was rather basic and consisted of a single spinning blade, powered by a small electric motor, atop a stake. The blade’s alternating colors produced a strobe effect. The magic comes from the strobe. Unlike humans, ducks can see in the ultraviolet spectrum, which allows them to pick out a hunter’s face shining in the sunlight as well as a spinning-wing decoy from two to three times farther than the human eye can see it. Likewise, a duck’s sharp vision and eyes on the side of its head allow it to see a wide panorama of motionor lack thereofin a decoy spread.

While some hunters achieve tremendous results with their motion decoys, others insist that they cause more harm than good. Here are a variety of tips from experts who make motion work.

EXPERT TIP #1 Understanding Motion Concepts

The spinning-wing concept spread like wildfire. Terry Denmon, an engineer by trade, was approached by a friend who owned a sporting goods store. Their goal was to develop a small, battery-powered motor that could drive spinning wings on a duck decoy. The idea quickly morphed into MOJO Outdoors, which has since established itself as a major manufacturer of spinners and other motion decoys.

Denmon separates his theory of motion into two categories: “long-range strobe” and “simple motion.” Long-range strobe, he says, is “the flash of a spinning-wing decoy generated by turning a wing at a certain minimum speed.” Simple motion, he continues, is “any movement not within the spinning-wing concept. This could be movement of decoys, water, or wings that do not produce the strobe or flash.”

If motion decoys were duck calls, the strobe would be the highball, and simple motion would be the lonesome hen. Like the highball, the strobe is very effective at attracting ducks from long ranges but can cause them to flare when they’re in close, particularly later in the season. Simple motion, on the other hand, is not visible to ducks from a distance but is more likely to help finish birds, just like the lonesome hen call.

While MOJO made the spinning-wing decoy famous, Higdon Outdoors pioneered the development of other types of motion decoys. In 1994, Mark Higdon built a goose decoy with a moving head, which went on to become the first mass-produced motion decoy.

Brook Richard, corporate relations manager for Higdon Outdoors, explains Higdon’s idea of motion. “Visual motion,” he says, “is produced by decoys that can be seen from a distance, but visual motion is not always useful when you’re trying to finish ducks. Water motion, on the other hand, is the process of putting a ripple on the water to make decoys move. With visual motion you’re trying to attract ducks from a long distance. With water motion you’re trying to get circling ducks to commit.”

The message is simple. Some motion decoys attract ducks from long distances, while others put ducks at ease when they are circling your spread. Understanding the difference helps you to be more strategic and creative when using motion.

EXPERT TIP #2 Get Creative

It’s no secret that decoy positioning is crucial to successful duck hunting, and that is especially important with the placement of motion decoys. Conventional wisdom indicates that if a decoy looks like a duck landing, it should be positioned in a spread where you want ducks to land. While placing a decoy in the middle of a landing hole may not be a terrible idea, a little more thought and creativity can yield better results.

Mark Kirsten has been hunting the rice fields of his family’s Sacramento Valley farm for nearly 30 years, and he has experienced the evolution of spinning-wing decoys firsthand. “When the original spinners were invented, they were almost unfair,” Kirsten says. “Their effectiveness has lessened over time, however, and the farther south you go, the less effective they can be.” As ducks move down the flyway, he explains, and especially as the season progresses, they can begin to see the strobe produced by the spinning wings as something unnatural.

“In my experience,” Kirsten continues, “as the season moves on, ducks don’t always finish as well when the spinners are spinning. I use one only if it has a remote, and we always turn it off as ducks get closer. As the season moves on, I also tend to place them farther and farther away from my blind. If ducks begin to act leery of a spinning-wing decoy, I’ll even put it outside my spread and partially behind cover so ducks can see it only at certain points in their circle. I think it can be a great tactic to continue attracting ducks without sacrificing the ability to finish them.”

Denmon endorses the tactic. “One of the biggest misconceptions for spinning-wing decoys is that they are good finishers,” he says. “The decoy was always intended to be a long-range attractor. But if ducks become shy and you remove it completely from your spread, you give up the ability to attract ducks from far off. If they aren’t finishing because of your spinning-wing decoy, move it to the far end of your spread, out of your landing hole. If you need to, move it a hundred yards outside your spread. It might not look as natural to us, but at least you’re still attracting ducks from far away. Once they are close enough to be shy of the strobe, the spinners have already done their job.”

EXPERT TIP #3 How Conditions Can Affect Motion

Ron Kee is a lifelong New Yorker who cut his teeth hunting ducks in the saltwater marshes of Long Island. A Wall Street veteran and former New York state DU vice chairman, he now hangs a shingle as a pro staffer for several waterfowling manufacturers including Mossy Oak, Drake Waterfowl, Buck Gardner Calls, and Tanglefree.

Changing weather conditions can present a challenge for any hunter, but those on our nation’s coasts also have to deal with tides. “Sometimes, the tide can shift six to eight feet over the course of a hunting day,” Kee says. “In a falling tide, a decoy on a pole will eventually stand too far out of the water. In a rising tide the same decoy will quickly be covered with water. We usually hunt from boats and almost always use floating spinning-wing decoys so our profile and motion adjust automatically with the tide.”

Hunters logging hours on coastal waters can also see a higher frequency of strong winds. “Most of the time we hunt sea ducks in a stout wind,” Kee continues. “We frequently use wind-powered spinning-wing decoys. While many inland hunters won’t see winds with enough power to spin motorless decoys, we commonly hunt in winds that produce the strobe that ducks can see from a long way away. They’re also lightweight and very affordable.”

Kee also encourages hunters to remember some tried and true old-school motion tactics. “Flagging passing ducks is one of the most effective techniques we use,” Kee says. The flag he uses is a black, square flag on a handle, similar to a black golf flag. Hunters grip the handle and flap the flag to simulate a duck or goose flapping its wings. “When ducks are at a distance, I’ll hit them with a few flaps,” Kee continues. “I just use a few flicks to get their attention, and once they start coming, I’ll stop flapping. Unlike dabblers, many divers and sea ducks don’t respond well to a duck call, so flagging gives me the same feeling of involvement that calling does. It really is an art form and can be a lot of fun.”

EXPERT TIP #4 Finesse Finishes Ducks

If the waterfowling community crowned a “King of Motion,” Ronnie Capps would be a strong contender. A retired game warden and current professional outfitter, Capps is widely regarded as an expert at bringing life to a dull decoy spread, to the point that clients have referred to his Reelfoot Lake timber hole as “Duck Disneyland.”

Capps believes that shy ducks require a more delicate approachsomething many decoy spreads lack. “You will scare far more ducks with erratic motion than subtle motion. Many hunters use what I call ‘The Haunted House Scenario,'” he says. “If you use too much motion at the wrong time, it’s like a guy with a chainsaw popping out at a haunted house.

“Keep your motion decoys on a remote or a hardwire switch, and don’t ever hit your heavy motion decoys when the ducks are looking right at your spread. When they get downwind and aren’t looking directly at you, hit your motion decoys a few times to stir up the water and create ripples and motion out of the corners of their eyes. I am also a big believer in swimming decoys, especially in and around my landing hole. I believe they are extremely beneficial when used for finishing ducks.”

Higdon’s Richard agrees. “Ducks move, and they move a lot,” he says. “I think the biggest mistake people make is devaluing the power of water motion, especially when there’s no wind or if you’re in the woods. Water motion is critical for finishing ducks.”

“With decoys arranged in a classic half-moon pattern, there are several different ways to use motion best,” Richard adds. “First, make sure your motion decoys are slightly upwind in the spread so the ducks will continue flying over them as they circle. Also consider placing a motion decoy among static decoys to compound their effectiveness. Putting a low-key motion decoy, like a swimmer, exactly in the spot where you want the ducks to land is also a great tactic.”

EXPERT TIP #5 Be Strategic

Supplementing your decoy spread with motion isn’t guaranteed to increase your harvest, but it’s hard to argue against it. The key is being strategic. While some decoys are meant to function like a hammer, others play subtler but equally important roles. Success comes when you understand the hunting conditions, read the birds’ behavior, and use the right tools for the job.

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It wasn’t the fish heads poking out of the Stargazy Pie that stopped more than a few of our readers cold. It was the eyeballs.

“Not a lot of food nowadays has eyes; what’s up with that?” one reader asked in commenting on a recent Salt post that featured a photo of the historic dish, which involves whole fish (eyes and all) poking out of a pie.

Turns out, quite a lot of cuisine features eyeballs. But there’s no question that in many cultures, eating eyes is a food taboo.

I first ran afoul of this when I cooked up ukha, a famous Russian fish soup, for a group of friends. The fish heads make for a beautiful clear broth, and my husband, who grew up in Kamchatka, wanted to make sure those big old heads swam in his bowl.

Alas, when the bowls were laid out, the one with fish eyes staring balefully upward landed in front of the most fastidious eater in the room. He has never dined at my house again.

So I called James Serpell, director of the Center for the Interaction of Animals and Society at the University of Pennsylvania, and asked why eyes creep people out.

“Eyes represent faces,” he said, “and it’s through the face that we learn to recognize and empathize with others. So it’s not entirely surprising that we find eyeballs disconcerting.”

Serpell learned that firsthand when he sat down to eat with a family in Iceland. They served svio, or boiled sheep’s head. “You get half a sheep’s head on your plate,” he told The Salt. “And you eat everything. Ears, eyes, nose — everything.”

Everything, including the eyeball. “The consistency is quite offensive,” he reports.

But even traditional Icelanders have their food taboos — the sheep head was served without the brain. “When I said, ‘Where’s the brain?’ they looked at me with horror.”

When it comes to Americans, “people in our culture are disgusted by eating any non-muscle part of edible animals, says Paul Rozin, a professor of psychology at the University of Pennsylvania who studies human food choice and disgust. “Eyes may be special because it is so clear that they are an animal part, and they have some special significance for many people.”

Maybe the eyes of other mammals are just a bit too close to home for most people. Fish eyes seem the most acceptable form of ocular cuisine, my fastidious soup-eating friend excluded. As our well-traveled readers pointed out, small fish are eaten whole in many cultures, from British whitebait to the dried fish snacks ubiquitous at Asian groceries. Elvers, tiny eels that resemble spaghetti, are popular not just in Europe but also in Asia.

Indeed, Asian cultures probably win the prize for not just tolerating but embracing fish eyes, both raw, as in sushi, and cooked. “I’ve had the fist-sized eye of a garoupa, steamed and garnished. (Gelatinous.),” one of our intrepid readers commented. “And in Asia fish tend to be cooked with the head on — it’s a sign of good fortune when things have a head and a tail!”

Shanghai-born food blogger Chichi Wang relishes fish eyes: “The trick to eating a fish eyeball is to keep it in your mouth for as long as possible,” she writes. “A rush of fatty fish flavor is accompanied by a gelatinous, spongy texture. Swallow too quickly and you’ll miss the nuances.”

When she was little, Wang’s mom always saved the fish eyes just for her. So when relatives recently gathered at a Cantonese restaurant, Wang offered her mom the fish eyes as a special treat.

“Take that away,” her mom said. “Fish eyeballs are really gross.”

Wang then realized that what had seemed to be the selfless act of motherhood had been instead an act of self-protection.

In the past few years, more adventurous Americans seem to be discovering fish eyes (and we’re not talking the slang for tapioca pudding). Look on chat boards devoted to the protein-rich paleo diet, and you’ll find debates on the nutritional benefits of caribou eyes.

And in Chicago, chef Cary Taylor took on the challenge of making a fish eye dish. After his fishmonger refused to provide pre-gouged eyeballs (“he said there was no way he was going to have his guys in the back cutting out fish eyeballs or they would riot,” Taylor told the Chicago Reader), the chef cooked up grouper-head soup. He then squeezed out the eyeball gel (best use gloves, he says) as a flavoring and thickener.

“It didn’t seem to be a super distinctive taste to me,” Taylor reported, though he did like the soup’s nice, fresh seafood taste. He’s now contemplating offering a free shot of whiskey to customers willing to suck the eyeballs out of a whole roasted fish.

Would you eat those eyeballs? Have you? Or is that a food that’s best left as a taboo? Tell us what you think.

If you have a hole or tear in your mesh fabric, don’t worry! You can mend it yourself with a few simple steps. First, locate the hole or tear. Then, cut out the faulty section of the mesh fabric with a pair of scissors.

Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches from the hole or tear. Now you’re ready to mend your mesh fabric.

Source: ifixit

How To Mend Mesh Fabric

If you have a torn mesh fabric, the first thing you should do is clean the area with soap and water. Then, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern and press mesh onto the adhesive tape.

Allow to dry.

Clean Area With Soapy Water And Clorox

Cleaning mesh fabric is easier than you think. All you need is soap and water, and a few drops of clorox. Soak the mesh for about five minutes in warm soapy water, then rinse it off with cool water.

Don’t use hot water or bleach on mesh fabric because it can damage the material. When washing your mesh fabric, make sure to get all the dirt, dust, and stains off of it. Always shake out any excess water before hanging or placing your mesh piece back on the rack.

If needed, you can spot clean areas on the fabric with a damp cloth or sponge. To keep your mesh looking new, avoid getting liquids and moisture onto it; this will cause fading and wear over time. Make sure to store your mesh fabric away from direct sunlight and heat sources to avoid damaging it even further.

Apply Adhesive Tape In A Crosshatch Pattern

If you have a mesh fabric shirt that needs to be mended, there is an easy way to do it. First, take the shirt to a dry cleaner and ask them to remove the stain or damage. Next, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern to the affected area.

Then wait for the adhesive to set before removing it. Repeat this process on any other areas of the shirt that need attention. Finally, wash the shirt as usual and enjoy your newly repaired clothing item! Adhesive tape can be used on most fabrics, so be creative when applying it so that it doesn’t look too noticeable.

Keep in mind that adhesive tape will not last forever, so replace it regularly as needed. And last but not least, remember to always test a small area first before using it on a larger piece of clothing! Mending mesh fabric can be a simple task with the right tools and instructions—and sometimes just some patience.

Press Mesh Onto Adhesive Tape

When repairing mesh fabric, it is important to adhere the mesh to adhesive tape in order to prevent it from shifting or tearing during the repair process. To do this, first take a piece of adhesive tape and place it on one side of the mesh fabric.

Then carefully place the mesh over the adhesive tape, making sure that all edges are fully covered. Next, press down firmly on the mesh with your hands so that it adheres tightly to the adhesive tape. Finally, use a sharp object such as a knife to make any necessary cuts in the mesh fabric if needed.

Be careful not to puncture the adhesive tape when performing this step! Repeat these steps for any other areas of the mesh that need repairs. Once all repairs have been made, dry the mesh completely before re- installing into your garment or home decor project

Allow To Dry

If you notice any threads coming out of the mesh fabric, don’t panic. All you need to do is gently pull on the threads until all the evidence of the fray is gone. Once all the threads are pulled out, allow the fabric to dry completely before continuing with your project.

If there are still visible strands or holes in the mesh, fill them with a patching material and sew it down. When repairing mesh fabric, be sure to use a thread that matches the color of your mesh fabric and avoid using too much tension when stitching. After completing your repair, be sure to wash and dry your repaired fabric properly to avoid further wear and tear.

Remember: never leave mesh fabrics unattended while they are being patched – they can become damaged even faster if left untreated! And finally, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric or any other sewing emergencies, don’t hesitate to reach out for help.

Remove The Fabric From The Mesh

Remove the fabric from the mesh by following these simple steps: Pry off the adhesive with a flathead screwdriver or scraper. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of the adhesive residue.

Wipe down any dust or debris that may have gathered on the mesh during removal. Place a new piece of adhesive onto the mesh and press it into place firmly with your fingers or a blunt tool such as a Credit Card.

Hold in place for seconds, then release the mesh and gently pull off the adhesive backing. If necessary, reposition and re- adhere the fabric to ensure a tight fit against the mesh surface. Finally, use a vacuum cleaner to clean up any leftover adhesive residue.

Repair The Fabric With Sewing Supplies

If you’ve got a tear or hole in your mesh fabric, there are a few supplies that you need to mend it with. Bias tape is one of the most common supplies used to repair mesh fabric because it’s both strong and flexible.

You can use sewing needles and thread to sew the bias tape directly onto the mesh fabric. Once you have sewn the bias tape in place, use a hot iron to press it down and seal the repairs. Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches or threads from the repaired area.

If you don’t want to rely on bias tape for your repairs, there are other options available such as Velcro strips or zippers. Always test a new repair before you go all-in and start stitching! If something goes wrong while you’re repairing your mesh fabric, be sure to have some replacement supplies on hand in case needed.

Be patient when repairing mesh fabric-it may take some time but it will definitely last longer if done correctly! When repairing mesh fabric, always make sure that there are no loose threads or areas that could come loose during wear and tear.

Wash And Dry The Fabric

When it comes to repairing mesh fabric, the most important thing to remember is to wash and dry it as soon as possible. Soak the fabric in warm water for a few minutes before washing it with your regular detergent.

Rinse the fabric thoroughly and then hang it to dry. If there are holes or tears in the fabric, patch them as soon as possible using a seam binding or zigzag stitch. If you notice any fading or yellowing of the fabric, treat it with a laundry stain remover before laundering it again.

Make sure that you store your repaired mesh fabric in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. And lastly, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric, don’t hesitate to ask a professional.

Apply A Patch

If you have a tear in your mesh fabric, the first step is to try to mend it yourself. There are a few different ways that you can mend mesh fabric, and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages.

One of the most common methods for repairing mesh fabric is by using a patch. When using a patch, be sure to follow the instructions that come with it so that the repair will last. Another option is to have your mesh fabric replaced entirely.

This is usually the best solution if the tear is large or multiple pieces of mesh have been damaged. If you choose not to replace the mesh fabric, be sure to keep the repair clean and free from moisture so that it lasts longer. Finally, if you do manage to mend your mesh fabric on your own, be sure to document the repairs so that you can re-create them if needed in the future.

Always remember: when repairing mesh fabric, take care not to stretch or tear the underlying fabric. If your are repairing pant fabrics, be careful doing so as they are expansive.

Conclusion

The best way to mend mesh fabric is by using a safe and effective method such as steam.

When most people think of groundhogs, they think of woodchucks. But are these two animals the same? What’s the difference between a woodchuck and a groundhog? Let’s take a closer look at these two creatures to see how they differ.

Woodchucks Vs. Groundhogs: Are They The Same Animal?

The simple answer is yes, they are the same. Woodchuck” is just another name for “groundhog.”  These animals are part of the rodent family and they are in the same genus and species. So, if you’re talking about a woodchuck, you’re really talking about a groundhog.

But there is a bit more to the story. These animals are also known by other names, including “whistle-pig” and “land-beaver.” In some parts of the United States, people call them “thickwood badgers.” And in Canada, they are sometimes called “chuckies.”

How Did The Groundhog/Woodchuck Get Its Name? 

The name “woodchuck” is thought to come from an Algonquian word, wuchak. It’s also possible that the name is a corruption of the Cree word otchockwia.

The name “groundhog” comes from the fact that these animals spend most of their time on the ground. They are good swimmers and tree-climbers, but they usually stick to the ground where they can dig their burrows.

So, now you know that woodchucks and groundhogs are the same animals. But what do these creatures look like? Let’s find out.

What Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Look Like?

Groundhogs are medium-sized rodents. They have short legs and low, compact bodies. They typically weigh between 4 and 10 pounds.

Male and female groundhogs look similar, but males are usually larger than females. Groundhogs have brown fur with a light-colored patch on their chest.

Their faces are round with small ears. They have dark eyes and long whiskers. Their tails are short and hairy.

Groundhogs are proficient climbers and can climb trees to escape predators or to get a better view of their surroundings. When they feel threatened, they will often retreat to their burrows where they will be safe from harm.

Where Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Live?

Groundhogs are found in North America, specifically in the United States and Canada. They are most commonly found in the eastern part of the continent.

These animals typically live in wooded areas, but they can also be found in fields, meadows, and even near houses and farms. They like to live in areas where there is a lot of vegetation so that they can find food to eat.

Groundhogs build their homes by digging burrows underground. These burrows can be up to 4 feet deep and 30 feet long. The entrance to the burrow is usually hidden by grass or other vegetation.

Inside the burrow, there is a nesting area where the groundhog will sleep. There is also a bathroom area where the groundhog will go to the bathroom.

Groundhogs typically live alone, but they will sometimes share their burrows with other groundhogs. A group of groundhogs living together in one burrow is called a colony.

What Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Eat?

Groundhogs are herbivores, which means that they only eat plants. Their diet consists mostly of grass, leaves, berries, and other vegetation. They will also eat nuts, fruits, and vegetables if they can find them.

In the wintertime, when food is scarce, groundhogs will often eat their own feces in order to get nutrients.

Groundhogs get most of the water they need from the food they eat. But if they can’t find enough water in their food, they will drink from puddles, streams, and other sources of water.

The Many Names Of The Groundhog :

• Whistle-Pig: This name is derived from the sound that a groundhog makes when it is alarmed. These animals are also sometimes called whistle-pigs or wood-pigs.
• Thickwood badger: The groundhog is the largest member of the squirrel family and is sometimes referred to as a thickwood badger, particularly in the northern part of its range.
• Canada Marmot: Groundhogs are also known as Canada marmots in some parts of their range.
• Red monk: In parts of Quebec, groundhogs are referred to as red monks, a name that is derived from the color of their fur.

Scientific Family And Order:

The Eastern groundhog is scientifically known as the Marmota monax. This animal is a member of the squirrel family and the order Rodentia.

No matter what you call them, woodchucks and groundhogs are interesting creatures. Here are a few facts about these animals:

· Groundhogs are one of the largest members of the squirrel family.

· They can weigh up to 14 pounds (6.4 kg).

· They can be as long as 26 inches (66 cm), including their tails.

· Groundhogs have short legs and small ears.

· They are good swimmers and can stay underwater for up to 5 minutes.

· Groundhogs are mostly active during the day.

· They are mainly herbivores, but they will also eat insects, snails, and small rodents.

· Groundhogs can live up to 6 years in the wild and 10 years in captivity.

Groundhogs are interesting animals, but what about their reputation for predicting the weather?

Do Woodchucks Really Predict The Weather?

The groundhog has become famous for its ability to predict the weather. According to legend, if a groundhog sees its shadow on February 2 (Groundhog Day), it means that winter will last for six more weeks. But if the groundhog does not see its shadow, it means that spring is on the way.

This tradition is thought to have started with German immigrants who came to the United States in the 1700s. In Germany, a similar tradition is associated with the badger. But when these immigrants arrived in America, they found that there were no badgers. So, they started using groundhogs instead.

Over time, the groundhog became the official “weather-predictor” in the United States. The first recorded instance of Groundhog Day was in 1841. And in 1886, the first newspaper article about Groundhog Day was published in The Punxsutawney Spirit.

Today, Groundhog Day is a popular event. Every year, people gather in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania to watch Punxsutawney Phil predict the weather.

Groundhogs As Pests :

Groundhogs can be a nuisance to homeowners and farmers.

They dig burrows on properties, which can damage crops, gardens, and lawns. These animals are also known to eat plants and vegetables.

How To Keep Woodchucks Out:

If you want to keep groundhogs away from your property, there are a few things you can do:

Install a fence: Groundhogs can climb, so it’s important to make sure that the fence is at least 4 feet (1.2 m) high. You can also add an electric wire to the top of the fence to deter these animals.

Remove food sources: If you have a garden or fruit trees on your property, groundhogs may be attracted to these areas. Try to keep these areas clean and free of debris.

Use traps: Trapping is one of the most effective ways to get rid of groundhogs. You can use live traps or lethal traps. But before you set any traps, be sure to check your local laws and regulations.

Hire a professional: If you’re having trouble getting rid of groundhogs, you may need to hire a professional wildlife control company. These companies can help you get rid of these animals in a safe and humane way.

Do it yourself method: Using an air rifle, for example, is one of the cheapest ways to get rid of groundhogs on your property.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

INTRODUCTION

This Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber test review is slightly unusual. Although we’re using the standard HAM review formal, we’re concentrating on two aspects of this gun in considerable detail. These are “Value For Money” and “Speed And Accuracy”.

This is because the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is very similar in most respects to the Umarex Gauntlet 2 in .22 caliber. The primary differences are the 30 cal’s position in the market and it’s very different power output.

So, rather than include much repetition from HAM’s earlier Gauntlet 2 review, readers are referred to that test for much basic information.

VALUE FOR MONEY

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 is different to the smaller caliber Gauntlet 2 versions as it plays on the edge of the big bore PCP market.

It sells for $50 more than the .22 and .25 caliber models. However that’s not a big deal compared to the difference in competition landscape it faces among 30 caliber air rifles.

First, let’s take a look at a selection of PCP air rifles with comparable high-level specifications. These are:

– Regulated

– Magazine feed

– Shrouded barrel

Looking a a simple price analysis, we see that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is by far the lowest priced game in town. It’s roughly half the price of its nearest competitor. And between a third and a quarter the cost of most models in this chart.

When it comes to power, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber has a claimed Muzzle Energy of 100 Ft/Lb. Broadening our market definition a little, we see that. 30 caliber power levels range from 30 Ft/Lbs for the Hatsan 135 springer (included as a benchmark) through to 275 Ft/Lbs for the AirForce Talon.

Next, aking price and dividing it by power, we can see how the guns stack up. In these terms, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber places second at $4.80 per Ft/Lb of claimed power.

So, yes, the Texan offers more value at $4.20 per Ft/Lb. However here we have a single load, unregulated, un-shrouded air rifle. It has the power but can’t complete on features with the Gauntlet 30. Even the Hatsan 135 springer is more than twice as expensive in price for power terms as the Gauntlet!

So, overall, it’s really tough to not agree that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber represents outstanding value in this market!

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Umarex Gauntlet 2 PCP Air Rifle 0.22

BUY FROM AIRGUN DEPOT Umarex Gauntlet 2

SPEED AND ACCURACY

OK, so the price is good. How about the performance?

The news everyone wants to hear is this. There’s plenty of power and the accuracy is pretty good too. And it shoots slugs well!

The slug-shooting performance itself will attract many shooters…

Ammo TypeWeightMuzzle VelocityMuzzle EnergyJSB Exact Pellets44.75 Grains1,003 FPS100 Ft/LbsDaystate Howler Slugs49.5 Grains996 FPS110 Ft/LbsJSB KnockOut Slugs50.15 Grains986 FPS108 Ft/Lbs

The testing was restricted to three types of ammo due to the well-known ammo shortage. However, it’s clear that accuracy of the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber tested by HAM was very good.

(Note that the scope elevation and windage were untouched through the test to show how the Point-Of-Impact dropped with increasing range.)

At 25 Yards, the gun printed “one hole”, 10-shot groups on the target with the JSB pellets and Howler slugs. The KnockOuts performed almost as well, with just one shot opening-up the group a little.

Moving to 50 Yards, we saw these “Inch-ish” Center-to-Center groups…

I had planned to stop at 50 Yards. But I felt that there was more to come from the Howler slugs. So I shot this 5-shot group at 75 Yards.

As the photograph with this target marker shows, here we have “Extreme Benchrest”-level accuracy from an out-of-the-box gun, shooting unsorted slugs. And with a scope magnification of only 16X. Not at all bad!!!

TRIGGER AND COCKING EFFORT

Trigger and cocking effort are similar to that of the Gauntlet 2. The trigger’s OK, the cocking effort very heavy, despite the very oversized bolt handle.

COMPARISON TO MAKERS CLAIMS

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber tested by HAM matched the manufacturer’s performance claims almost exactly.

That’s 99 Ft/Lbs with 44.75 Grain pellets and 25 consistent shots per fill. We saw a maximum of 110 Ft/Lbs of Muzzle Energy with 49.5 Grain Daystate Howler slugs and 24 consistent shots (with shot 25 being disputable)…

CONSISTENCY

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber air rifle tested by HAM gave 24 consistent shots from one 4,500 PSI fill of High Pressure Air. As can be seen from the chart below, the Muzzle Velocity falls predictably after that point.

NOISE LEVEL

With a 100 Ft/Lb Muzzle Energy, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is not going to be quiet – even though it’s shrouded.

However a change compared to smaller calibers is that it’s now threaded for an aftermarket dedicated airgun silencer. This undoubtedly would reduce the report, although at the expense of maing tis 47.5-Inch air rifle even longer!

SIGHTS AND SCOPE

For this test review, HAM used a Hawke Sidewinder4-16×50 scope, mounted with Hawke Tactical Match rings. This combination worked well, although I should have chosen a higher power for the 75 Yard targets…

SHOOTABILITY

The considerable length and front-mounted HPA tank mean that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is best fired supported. That could be sitting at a bench, prone from a bipod or rested against a tree.

APPEARANCE AND FINISH

As for the Gauntlet 2.

BUYING AND OWNING

Don’t forget to buy plenty of ammo while it’s available!!!

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber features an improved gauge face plate and superior degassing system to the other Gauntlet models previously tested.

It also includes a hammer spring tension adjuster screw for making power adjustments. This is another new feature compared to the smaller-caliber Gauntlets.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Umarex Gauntlet 2 PCP Air Rifle 0.22

BUY FROM AIRGUN DEPOT Umarex Gauntlet 2

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Fishing always seems like a simple, laid-back event. It’s usually a family-bonding experience accompanied by a slow, leisurely boat ride and a picnic. You catch a few fish, maybe grill some, then release the rest.

As with most things, there are outliers to this stereotype. Instead of a calm and easy affair, an angling trip can also turn into a strenuous game of tug-of-war between you and a giant inhabitant of the seas.

Regular-sized fish may be the norm, but there are also people who have caught large, record-breaking creatures with just their trusty rod and reel. Here are some of the largest fish ever caught over the years.

3,427-Pound Great White Shark, New York, 1986

The biggest fish recorded to be caught on rod and reel is a controversial one. In August 1986, Frank Mundus and Donnie Braddick caught a 3,427-pound great white shark off the coast of Montauk in New York.

The two anglers were reportedly using a 150-lb test line on a group of white sharks. According to a 2005 recounting of Mundus himself, their fight to reel in the shark went on for a total of one hour and 40 minutes.

A Controversial Record Breaker

Unfortunately, the catch is considered to be controversial. There are accusations that Mundus was only able to catch the great white shark after fishing by a dead whale. The dead whale allegedly attracted the sharks, which allowed Mundus and Braddick to bait and reel it in. This violates the record rules of the International Game Fish Association (IGFA).

However, according to Mundus, his boat pulled up to an already dead whale. By his account, the whale had large bloody bite marks the size of peach baskets and still had blood coming out of its mouth. He claims he and Braddick waited by the whale until midnight, when two sharks slammed into the whale.

IGFA-Approved Honorable Mentions

Although the 3,000-plus pound great white shark that Mundus and Braddick caught is tangled up in some controversy, there have been plenty more large catches over the decades that are recognized and approved by the IGFA.

The five official largest fish ever caught on rod and reel while saltwater fishing are the following:

2,664-Pound Great White Shark, Australia, 1959

The contested and official largest fish caught on rod and reel are both great white sharks but are almost 1,000 pounds and over 30 years apart.

The official IGFA-approved record is held by Alfred Dean, who caught a 2,664-pound great white shark while angling in Ceduna, Australia back in April 1959. Since great white sharks have become a protected species today, this record-breaking catch will likely stay unbeaten for years to come.

1,785-Pound Tiger Shark, Australia, 2004

The next largest fish ever caught by an angler using only a rod and a reel is another shark caught much more recently. This time, it was a tiger shark weighing 1,785 pounds and 11 ounces. It was caught by Kevin J. Clapson in ULladulla, Australia in March 2004.

This catch is tied with another record-setting catch from 1964 by Walter Maxwell. The only difference between the two catches was 11 ounces, leading the IGFA to rule in favor of a tie.

1,708-Pound Greenland Shark, Norway, 1987

In October 1987, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught another large shark while angling in Trondheimsfjord, Norway. He used a herring as bait to reel in a Greenland shark. The fish weighed a total of 1,708 pounds 9 ounces.

Greenland sharks are one of the largest living species of sharks in the world. It can grow up to seven meters or 23 feet long and live up to 500 years old, based on radiocarbon dating.

1,560-Pound Black Marlin, Peru, 1953

The next largest fish ever caught on rod and reel is a welcome change from the shark family that dominate the top three spots. Taking the fourth spot is a gigantic black marlin caught off the coast of Cabo Blanco in northern Peru in August 1953.

The 1,560-pound black marlin was caught by angling legend Alfred C. Glassell, Jr., who used a 130-lb line class and bait. This catch is one of the longest-standing IGFA world records. This particular fish can still be seen as part of a permanent exhibition in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

1,496-Pound Bluefin Tuna, Canada, 1979

Another non-shark entry rounds up the last spot in the top five largest fish caught by rod and reel. In October 1979, renowned heavy-tackle angler Ken Fraser used a mackerel as bait to reel in a 1,496-pound bluefin tuna. The huge fish was caught in Aulds Cove, off the coast of Nova Scotia, Canada.

This region is known for its bluefin tuna fishery. However, Fraser’s heavy-tackle angling record remains unbeaten to this day.

Making It Big

When it comes to saltwater fishing, a huge part of what gets you catches the size of those on this list is luck, patience, and perseverance. Of course, having the best fishing tackle matters too.

Increase your chances of catching record-breaking fish with Rite Angler’s high-quality tackle. We offer products designed for success and made with anti-corrosive materials for better durability to withstand stormy seas, the blazing sun, and the biggest catch.

Rite Angler has been the partner of many fishers and anglers since our founding in 1990, providing reliable terminal tackle and other fishing equipment for men and women serious about improving their fishing game.

Check out our website and order superior lures, lines, and tackle for your next fishing trip, today!