What’s the best knife for self-defense purposes in 2024? The evidence points to – not using a knife for self-defense in the first place. The legal ramifications for drawing a knife in a self-defense situation are tenuous at best even in knife-friendly locales. The combination of luck and skill required to successfully use a knife as a self-defense tool is daunting. The likelihood of injuring yourself versus who is attacking you must also be considered. Did we also mention that a knife that’s good as a self-defense tool is typically dramatically impractical for day to day tasks.

So, with all that common sense stuff, why bother creating a list of self-defense knives in the first place? Two reasons. One, it’s better to be prepared for something that won’t happen than be surprised by something that does – and something is better than nothing. Two, some of these knives are cool. It’s OK to like cool things because they’re cool. You’re among friends here.

SPYDERCO MATRIARCH 2

The Spyderco Matriarch is an offshoot of the larger Spyderco Civilian, which is probably the most ironically named product since the Ford Aspire, as there is nothing civil about it at all. According to Spyderco, the Civilian was a result of a request from “A government agency” for a knife to be used in last-ditch situations as a defensive tool for people not trained in knife fighting or close quarters combat in general. So it’s the closest a knife gets to a being an idiot-proof self-defense tool, being designed to be used in a forward-facing “claw” motion.

The Matriarch is the same concept as the Civilian, but scaled down and sharing its bones with the Endura 4 to lower costs and weight, and it also offers the advantage of an available Emerson Wave opener. For those not familiar, it works in the tip-up carry position – a hook cut into the spine of the blade catches on the edge of your pocket as you draw the knife, pulling the blade open and into the locked position as soon as it’s free of your pocket.

Like the Civilian, the Matriarch has a unique blade shape – a reverse “S” shape with a dramatic recurve to the belly, and a sharp downward-pointed tip. The grind is a very stout low saber grind for strength, and the whole length of the blade is serrated. An “EDC” knife this is not – even according to Spyderco, who says “Because of its distinctly specialized features it is not intended or designed for general utility or everyday use.” We appreciate the honesty.

FOX KNIVES FOLDING KARAMBIT

The Karambit is a knife style designed expressly for fighting and generally regarded as one of the best knives for self defense. It has almost no useful value as a day to day cutting tool. Opening your boxes from Amazon or bags of dog food with a Karambit is harder than using your finger. But it is a devastatingly effective self-defense tool, provided you know how to use it properly. There are a number of brands that make folding Karambit knives besides Fox, including Brous Blades, Emerson, Medford, Boker, Bastinelli, Spyderco/Byrd, QTRMSTR, Cold Steel and others – but the Fox Folding Karambit from Italy is probably the most well-known and purpose-designed among them.

If you want a basic guide to defensive Karambit use, this video by Blade HQ does a good job of explaining how to utilize this unique knife. There are a number of identifying characteristics to a Karambit. The “chapter ring” on the end of the handle is one, and the steep hawkbill profile to the blade (an inward curve) is another. The chapter ring serves two purposes – it allows you to pass your finger through it when you draw the knife from your pocket making retrieval easier, and it also serves as a means of securing the knife in your hand when the karambit is held in a reverse (“ice pick”) grip as it’s intended.

Once deployed, a Karambit’s primary purpose is slicing cuts – not jabbing, obviously. The design of the knife favors a reverse grip and allows you to use the blade in a swinging rather than a thrusting motion.

Fox’s Karambits are well regarded among the defense community, and also don’t break the bank like pricier ones from Brous or Emerson. The wave opener gives it the benefit of self-opening when it’s drawn from the pocket, and sturdy G10 scales with a stainless liner lock serve the purpose of a self-defense knife. There’s also an aluminum handled version if you like the feel better.

KA-BAR TDI

The Ka-Bar TDI has been around unchanged for quite a long time, because it serves a very specific purpose and doesn’t require constant updates to remain relevant. Designed by John Brenner of the Tactical Defense Institute (TDI), the TDI is designed primarily for law enforcement as a back-up knife to a handgun, an easy-to-access secondary option if your primary defense tool can’t be reached or doesn’t work. To that end the TDI is designed around compatibility with gross motor skills rather than fine techniques.

It’s a modified karambit shape – the nearly 90 degree angle of the handle to the blade makes that much obvious – but it’s designed to be used in a forward grip, cross-drawn from a belt holster on your non-dominant side to quickly and effectively cut at close range with a straight wrist. The angle to the handle isn’t a coincidence: it’s designed to be drawn from a holster in a similar manner to a pistol.

It’s an extremely specialized knife design, but it does still hold some day to day practicality that a traditional karambit doesn’t. AUS-8 steel is a reliable choice, black coated here, and contoured polymer handles give you a solid grip with a deep finger choil right behind the bend for control. There’s also a partially serrated variant as well as a large size (3.6”) if you want something bigger.

SPYDERCO P’KAL

The P’Kal is one of the most unique Spyderco’s, and like the Matriarch it has a decidedly impractical MO. It’s designed around the Filipino martial art of Pikal. Pikal uses a knife held in a reversed ice pick grip to make cuts in a tearing motion using the strength of your upper arm. That explains the rather unusual appearance of the P’Kal, which is designed to be held in a reverse grip with the sharpened edge facing in to make pulling cuts. The deep groove along the spine above the lock is actually a finger choil to anchor your hand when you’re clenching it. Once drawn, the P’Kal makes a powerful and agile defense tool as a natural extension of your arm – good for concise, short movements as well as a defense technique for someone attacking you.

The P’Kal uses the caged ball bearing lock, similar to the system in the Manix 2 lineup, as a way to squeeze a strong lock into a small space as well as making the knife easier to close one-handed. It also has a unique implementation of the Emerson Wave opener, a protrusion from the spine of the blade that catches on your pocket on the way out to pull the knife open. On the P’Kal the wave opener is actually a removable post that threads into the spine of the blade. S30V blade steel and textured G10 handles with nested stainless liners should be familiar to Spyderco aficionados.

COLD STEEL URBAN EDGE

Here’s a budget option for those with slim wallets. The Urban Edge is a series of push daggers from Cold Steel that straddle the line between the enormous 4.5” Safe Maker and the miniscule 1” Mini Pal, balancing out usability with portability. At only 1.42 ounces the Urban Edge is light enough to be forgotten, with the sheath designed to be used in a neck knife setup – although a series of rivets on the sheath means it could be adapted to belt carry or just shoved into a pocket, since it’s only 4” long total. Blade steel is AUS-8A, in a broad dagger shape with a hollow grind and flat on the back. The handle has a molded rubberized grip. You have three choices for the grind – plain edge, 50/50 serrated (serrated on one side, plain on the other) or fully serrated.

The push dagger is designed to be held in a closed fist, with the blade protruding through your ring and middle fingers away from your knuckles, in a defensive situation for use in a pushing/punching/thrusting motion rather than swung in arcs like the karambit or TDI mentioned above. At only 2.5” it’s not an outrageously large knife, which gives it the benefit of being easy to carry and conceal but it’s long enough to make a difference. A push dagger is even more reliant on gross motor skill than the TDI, and probably less useful for day to day tasks – a real single-use self-defense tool.

EMERSON CQC-13

Ernest Emerson is one of the most well-known names when it comes to tactical knives. He’s been making knives that appeal to “operators” (real and imagined) under the brand of his own name since 1996, and well before that as customs. Emerson is the progenitor and patent holder of the Wave device, a deceptively simple feature that when used correctly will open a knife into the fully locked position as you pull out of your pocket using a small protrusion on the spine.

A knife that opens itself is about as tactical as it gets, and his innovation has spread to many other brands including a broad collaboration with Kershaw. But if you want the most tactical of Emersons, it has to be a Bowie, doesn’t it? The combination of Ernie’s expertise in all things tactical and the traditional fighting-knife shape of a Bowie (or recurve clip point if you want to be picky about it) makes for one intimidating piece of equipment. It’s got all the things that make an Emerson an Emerson, of course: black G10 scales, normal fasteners (the pivot screw is a flathead! Imagine that!), the thumb “disc” opener, and a chisel ground blade in 154CM with a unique dual-texture finish: satin on the grinds, stonewashed flats. At 3.85” it’s on the large side giving you extra reach, and like all Emersons it has excellent ergonomics. The ZT Emerson collaborations are now discontinued but are worth an honorable mention.

CRKT TECPATL

How cool is the Tecpatl? Aside from its function as a self-defense tool, it’s a neat knife to look at. The Tecpatl is part of CRKT’s Forged by War series, knives and tools designed by military veterans with 10% of proceeds going to charities of the designer’s choice. In the case of the Tecpatl, it’s designed by Michael Rodridguez, an Army vet with proceeds going to the Special Operations Care Fund and the George W Bush Institute.

It’s a unique knife to be sure, a push dagger with two finger guards – one complete, one partial – that’s designed to be clenched in your fist facing outwards. The blade shape is a modified wharncliffe, with a full length swedge that switches over to a sort of reverse-tanto shape towards the tip, while the belly has a long continuous curve up to the tip. This is all designed to give the Tecpatl strong piercing abilities while retaining enough material behind the tip to give it strength to penetrate without breaking off. The steel is SK5 high-carbon non-stainless steel, so a black powder coat is applied to prevent corrosion. This is the canvas for the unique “Sugar Skull” (Calavera) markings and a host of other Easter eggs. The Kydex sheath is Molle compatible too.

AL MAR SERE 2000

The SERE 2000 was the brainchild of the late Al Mar and Nick Rowe in the 1980’s as a knife designed for use in the Army SERE training course – Survival, Evasion, Resistance, Escape – which prepares soldiers for unexpected occurrences in the field. To this goal, the SERE 2000 was designed to be a knife that can be relied on in any situation to do what’s needed. It’s not a complicated knife, but it is a tough one – arguably one of the strongest tactical folders around.

A 3.6” (or a 3” on the Mini-SERE) VG-10 blade has a spear point shape with a pronounced swedge and opens with dual thumb studs. A beefy liner lock and flow-through construction makes this knife simple, reliable, and easy to disassemble and clean. The handles flare out at the hilt to help keep your hand from slipping forward in rough situations, as do the textured G-10 handle scales. A deep carry clip mounted to the butt of the handle helps keep a low profile. The SERE 2000 series is available in a variety of configurations: satin finish or black ceramic coated blades, and black, digicam or olive drab handle scales. Solid self defense option.

MICROTECH COMBAT TROODON

It can be argued that part of self-defense is mental over physical, and a giant powerful OTF knife popping open is the blade equivalent of the unmistakable sound of a 12-gauge pump shotgun being racked. Microtech’s are impractical, expensive, overly ornate, needlessly aggressive knives – that will scare the &!#% out of anyone with bad intentions who picked the wrong guy. Theoretically, anyway.

The Combat Troodon is Microtech’s biggeset, baddest OTF. It features a dual action slider on the spine of the handle that both deploys and retracts the blade under spring pressure. Blade steel is Bohler Elmax powdered stainless as standard, although there are a staggering array of variations available: six blade shapes, serrations or no, three different hardware sets, seven finishes, and fifteen colors – including the fairly offensive Zombie Splatter. Aluminum handles keep it light, and a glass breaker on the butt of the handle also serves as the anchor point for the pocket clip – as well as a makeshift kubotan if you’re so inclined.

CHRIS REEVE PROFESSIONAL SOLDIER

Most people are familiar with Chris Reeve Knives for the iconic Sebenza folder – maybe the newer Inkosi or Umnumzaan folders too. But a lot of people aren’t even aware that CRK makes fixed blades. The Professional Soldier is designed by Bill Harsey (yeah, that Bill Harsey!) in collaboration with the professionalsoldiers.com forum for the Special Forces. It’s a minimalist fixed blade made of – what else? – CPM S35VN stainless steel, PVD coated black as well as some in flat dark earth, with your choice of three blade shapes: a traditional drop point, a modified tanto, or the Inkosi – CRK’s take on a modified wharncliffe.

Designed to be a versatile carry, the Professional Soldier comes with a kydex sheath that’s Molle compatible, and has some hidden features you wouldn’t notice at first glance. The void in the handle is actually a shackle key to loosen shackle bolts up to 5/8”, and the paracord that’s threaded through the two holes in the rear of the handle has been carefully placed so the knife doesn’t make noise when it’s set down.

It’s arguable that above all else a good self-defense tool doesn’t make itself difficult to carry or use, and that’s what earns the Professional Soldier a spot on this list. It’s slim, simple, easy to carry and conceal, and it has the kind of basic but correct ergonomics you need in an emergency situation. Also, CRK’s build quality is second to none and the Professional Soldier can be reliably passed on to your grandkid’s children assuming it isn’t lost.

BONUS: Medford Marauder

No, not to cut things or slash things. The Medford Marauder, ringing in at around $800 retail, weighs over 11 ounces. The blade is more than a quarter-inch thick. Cut things? Why bother? Just throw it at your attacker – overhand, like a baseball. Knock them clean out, steal their wallet and buy a real knife.

Clay has been a Top Ten finisher in the WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP COYOTE CALLING CONTEST® (WCCCC) the last two years running. He has hunted coyotes all over the US. In this podcast, Clay talks in detail about coyote calling techniques in different areas of the US, how to call them, how to set up, and the advantages of using FoxPro electronic calls vs. mouth calls.

Coyote Hunting Basics by Clay Owens

• This how to call coyotes video by Clay Owens will give you the basics and have you well on your way to successfully hunting coyotes. Clay Owens is coyote calling Champion and FoxPro field staffer.
• Learn how you can go on a predator hunt with Clay for some one-on-one hunting experience. (coming soon)

Why do we hunt predators?

• To control their numbers to protect livestock and game.
• For their fur.
• Because it is fun.

Stand Strategies:

• Hunt where the coyotes are. Scout just as you would for deer hunting. Landowners are usually willing to help. Your success will decrease drastically if you are just doing cold sets.
• It is very important to have a good vantage point where you can see 360 degrees if possible.
• Set up with the wind in your face, or at the very least a crosswind. Make sure you can see downwind however. Coyotes have exceptional senses. They have great eyesight and hearing, but their nose is something you’re never going to beat. 90% of coyotes will try to work the wind and get in behind you.
• In some cases, calling with a buddy is critical.

Three things drive coyotes to come in to a call:

1. Food: Rabbit distress, fawn distress and mouse squeaks are the go-to calls you need in your arsenal. Hear Clay demonstrate in the video.
2. Fighting: Howling is more difficult. If you’re a rookie, Clay suggests you get yourself an electronic call. Listen to Clay do a location howl on the video. Clay also demonstrates the Female Challenge Howl and a pup distress call with a diaphragm call. Clay also shows us how to use the CS24 FoxPro Electronic call.
3. Sex

How to call coyotes depending on the season:

• Fall: In the fall, pups are receptive to distress calls. The pups are still young, undispersed and hungry.
• Winter: In the winter, Clay still starts with distress sounds.
• Spring: Spring is when coyotes start to pair up for breeding season. This is when howling becomes more critical. You are appealing to a single male looking for some love, or trying to pick a fight. Sometimes Clay also uses a Pair Howl. Distress calls still work well in the Spring as well.
• Clay leaves the coyotes alone in the summer to raise their pups.

Other coyote hunting tips:

• Start your calling sequence softly, stepping up the volume gradually.
• If you call a coyote to within 100 yards, SHOOT!
• Often, they come as a pair or even a pack. After the shot, be quick to get on the pup in distress call to get them to stop.
• Clay thinks that there is a big difference in hunting mountain coyotes and plains coyotes. Mountain coyotes are more difficult, in his opinion. He thinks it’s because mountain coyotes have more predators such as mountain lions, wolves, and even golden eagles to contend with, so they are more cautious.
• Western vs. Eastern coyotes. Eastern coyotes are a bit bigger, because they have more food available, but Clay doesn’t think that there is much difference in hunting them.
• Coyotes come to fight, breed or find food. Learn how to appeal to those needs, and you’ll a successful predator hunter.
• Three things you need to master in order to be a successful predator hunter:
  • 1) Good woodsmanship;
  • 2) Learn the behaviour of coyotes and how to handle them as they’re approaching;
  • 3) Practice your shooting.
• Clay scouts 75% of the time, and only spends 25% of his time actually hunting. Scouting is super important, as it doesn’t do any good to hunt where there aren’t any dogs. While he is scouting, Clay is in “stealth mode”, and usually in the dark. He likes to run up and down backroads looking for tracks and scat piles. He also likes to stop every once in awhile and howl, patterning an area where they live, and also learning the pack dynamics i.e., is there a dominant male in the area, or a bunch of pups in a big group?…hunting each will be different. While he’s scouting, he is quiet, and tries not to be seen or winded as you looks for sign and vantage points that will make good calling setups. He also takes notes of what direction the wind needs to be blowing from in order to hunt that setup and waits until the conditions are right before hunting it.
• If you find a dead cow, or a road kill deer, you know they won’t be more than a mile away from that free meal, so that’s a bonus. When he finds that situation, he calls there “pretty soon”. Coyotes will travel a long way to feed on a dead cow, so take advantage of the opportunity. You may get the chance to hunt coyotes that don’t even live in the area while they’re getting a free meal.
• Clay almost exclusively uses FoxPro electronic predator calls. With their calls, you can replicate almost any type of call you need to.
• Pack dynamics will dictate your hunting strategy.
  • If you’re dealing with a family group, he uses more vocalizations as opposed to distress sounds (excluding pup distress). Males will circle to get the wind, and females will charge right in.
  • Breeding season is late winter, through early spring (January, through early March). They will start pairing up in January, so you’ll start using more vocalizations. Family howling sequences; female single howls; male challenge howls; and female challenge howls. He will often just howl one single time, and then wait ten minutes for them to come.
  • Calling to an entire pack can sometimes be pretty easy, when you hear them howling. Clay will often just make a “desperate” distress sound for about five seconds, and then wait. If they’re within a few hundred yards, they could be in range in under a minute. If they don’t come, you might try it a few more times.
• Clay’s go-to sounds are howling (all variations); rabbit distress; deer fawn distress; any kind of bird distress sound; rodent distress; and one of his favorites is an antelope fawn distress sound.
  • Don’t start out too loudly. Start with a 30 to 60 second sequence of a super low rabbit or rodent distress calls. Then wait two minutes before starting the next sequence.
  • Then he will go into two, one minute sequences of mid-volume rabbit distress a minute each, with a two minute break between each sequence.
  • If nothing has shown up, he might throw in some howling.
  • The entire setup will last 15 to 25 minutes. Mountain coyotes however, are more cautious, and sometimes take 30 to 40 minutes to come in.

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The Incredible, Edible Brassica

A look at which brassicas are best at various times of the season and under different conditions.

Todd Amenrud

From the time Toxey Haas and BioLogic first guided “whitetail deer management” into the age of planting brassicas, we have been researching, learning more about them and understanding better how to utilize different brassicas to help us accomplish a wide variety of management goals. If you have enough ground to devote to your food plot program, most managers would agree that a well-diversified food program with an assortment of plants that will offer your herd what they need regardless of the time of the season or current conditions is the way to go. Some of the plants you choose would likely be perennials, but for the best in attraction during the hunting season it’s hard to beat a food plot full of luscious late summer to fall planted annuals. When it comes to annuals, many readers know that brassicas are, in my opinion, the best deer food God ever created. They are my favorite plantings for numerous reasons; they are the most attractive, best producing (yield), most nutritious, easiest to plant and one of the hardiest growing food plot choices we have. Combine that with the fact that they’re also great for the soil. What’s not to like? Sure, I live in the North, but those in the South shouldn’t be so quick to snuff them. They work the same throughout the South, but closely examining the palatability timeframe and conditions under which each variety of brassica performs best is more important in the South than in northern climes. At first (about 20 years ago) we at BioLogic ran into a couple instances of having to battle the “whitetails’ learning curve.” When you introduce a plant deer have never seen before, one that if they tried it before the sugars had developed may have been bitter, it could take them a season or two to become accustomed to it. However, that was rare and I haven’t heard of it happening in years. Annuals, in general, are typically easy to plant and since these are late summer to fall plantings, (depending on your location north to south) the summer weed cycle should be over for the most part. While always called a fall planting, you’ll see that I call these late summer to fall plantings. Because if you wait to plant some of these until it’s literally fall (September 22 or 23, depending on the year and your location), in some areas you may end up with a failure, or at the very least you’re not getting the most out of the plants, especially brassicas. Many still plant their brassicas when they have always traditionally planted their cereal grains. In the northern region and into Canada, brassicas should be planted during July through early August and cereals planted from late July (in the far north around the Canadian border) through August or even September further south (Iowa, Illinois, Nebraska, etc). Obviously that should be adjusted a bit later the further south you go, all the way into October for the Deep South. Years ago, when Toxey Haas and Grant Woods first introduced brassicas to the food plot market, rape was the primary type of brassica used. As most of you probably know, brassicas require cold temperatures to convert the plants’ high levels of starch into sugar and transform it into its most attractive, palatable stage. Initially, for some in the South the brassicas weren’t reaching their most appealing state until after the hunting season was over. Since then, BioLogic has introduced other types of brassicas that develop their sugars much earlier, and even in the South are likely the best attraction and nutrition you can plant – bar none. A common progression during the hunting season would see your herd switch from legumes (both perennials like clover or alfalfa, or annuals like soybeans or cowpeas) to cereal grains (like oats, wheat or triticale) to brassicas (like radishes, turnips, rape and kale). While there are many other things we can offer our herd, with these three types of plantings your herd should have a palatable food choice throughout most of the hunting season or until each type of food runs out. Different crops will dramatically extend the palatability timeframe of your plot. To take that “variety approach” a step further, within every type of crop, by planting a different assortment of each it will also extend the amount of time your plot will remain attractive, especially when it comes to brassicas. From my experience, they will attack radishes first. Whitetails will first lay siege to the green tops, then finish by devouring every bit of the long root tubers. These aren’t your “auntie’s dinner radishes,” these are large tubers that resemble a “huge, white carrot” rather than our more familiar small, round, red and white radishes. My favorite blend is BioLogic’s Deer Radish, it’s not just my preferred brassica planting, it’s my favorite planting, period. From my experience they will begin eating these radishes as early as late August in the north and around early October further south (northern Alabama) until they’re gone. So if you plant enough, they can last throughout the season. Next, your whitetails will typically set their sights on various turnips and beets. While sugar beets are actually in a different plant family and are not a brassica, they are very similar. Just like turnips, they hold a high concentration of sucrose, however it is contained mostly in the root bulb (They still eat the tops.) as opposed to brassicas that have sugars contained throughout the plant, and the sugar presence is caused more by photosynthesis than cold temperatures. I usually see them hit these plants after the radishes, and I use them for attraction during the months of November and December and on until they’re gone. My favorite blend is Winter Bulbs & Sugar Beets, and just like the radishes, they will consume the entire plant. First they’ll eat the greens and then the root bulbs. The radishes are easier for them to pull out of the ground to consume, so with turnips and beets you’ll often see partially eaten bulbs or they’ll scoop out the top and inside of the turnip or beet so it looks like a “beet bowl” left in the soil.

Lastly, they tend to hit rape, canola and kale after the radishes, turnips and beets. These last three brassica types do not produce large root bulbs or tubers like radishes, beets or turnips, but they produce an amazing yield of sweet, green forage. I tend to use these last three brassica types more as winter nutrition than hunting time attraction, but especially when it comes to the blend Maximum, you may want to also plant some for hunting attraction. Maximum produces a yield of more succulent, nutritious forage than any other planting I’ve ever seen. While they certainly may hit these brassicas as soon as cold temperatures convert the plants’ huge green tops to become sweet, if you have radishes and turnips also planted, they’ll typically consume rape after the other two brassica types. Kale is especially cold hardy. Kale’s large leaves will stay green and attractive long into the winter even if covered by several feet of snow. I tend to utilize kale only as winter nutrition. Remember that the timeframe I’m suggesting for these to be their most attractive is just an estimate. It can vary from year to year and region to region. As an example, in the “big woods” where there isn’t a lot of agriculture or other crops to back up your food plots, they may eat any of these as fast as they come out of the ground. Or, if we have an unseasonably warm fall it may take the brassicas longer to develop their sugars, pushing back the entire attraction calendar. I didn’t want to be too northern biased in this piece, so I asked the “frenetic food plot scientist of Alabama,” Austin Delano, who also heads-up BioLogic’s Research and Development, “How do you notice whitetails reacting to each of these plant varieties throughout the south?”

Austin said, “I definitely agree with the order. I think deer density, surrounding food sources (or lack of), a deer herd’s familiarity with the plot, and weather conditions during that year are all variables that can determine how fast and when a brassica plot is consumed.”

He also echoed how important it is to have a “blend” with varying maturity rates and palatability timeframes.

Delano continued, “As far as a north/south comparison, I do think deer consume brassicas earlier in the fall the further north you go. Not just because the onset of cold weather changes the plants, but it also changes a deer’s metabolism and increases their need for heavier carbohydrate foods like brassicas. I also believe that brassica consumption (regardless of type) increases over time and gets earlier in the year when they are planted in the same area every year. In other words, deer that have several generations of exposure to brassicas typically use them earlier and more often.”

Basically he’s also talking about a learning curve, but now it’s working in the opposite direction, in the deer’s favor. I guess it’s in our favor too. The other great thing about brassicas is not only are they the best attraction I have ever seen, they are without a doubt the absolute best nutrition you can provide for your herd. With an average crude protein content of 32% to 38% (depending on the cultivar and stage of growth) and a TDN (Total Digestible Nutrients) of over 80%, that would suit me fine, but add to it they yield more than any other planting and they are great for the soil (radishes especially). Check mate! Brassicas win! As I said, best deer food God has ever created.

More often than not, I plant my cereals and brassicas separately, for several reasons. However, if a manager wants a fast, simple, “one and done” plot, a blend of cereals and brassicas (and sometimes other plants) together may be your ticket. Blends like Full Draw, Last Bite, Green Patch, or Winter Grass Plus provide brassicas mixed with cereal grains. An annual or bi-annual clover is sometimes added to provide extra nutrition or a flush of nutritious forage reemerging after dormancy the following spring. Delano also told me, in his home state of Alabama, he likes to mix Trophy Oats with Deer Radish. He said it’s an easy to do, “one and then you’re done” hunting plot. Provided you plant enough, this can keep them coming back for more throughout the entire hunting season. I don’t know anyone who tests more food plot options than Austin, or many who know as much about deer management, so when he says so, I take it as fact. There are several reasons why a manager may choose to plant each (oats and radishes) separately, but as a simple plan for an uncomplicated, yet diverse hunting plot I would consider this. Think about all the options we have to plant for whitetails, we’ve only partially covered brassicas (and one beet type). We didn’t even talk about spring planted crops that can also be very attractive to whitetails like corn, buckwheat or clover. Or other late summer/fall planted annuals like winter peas, which are amazingly appealing to whitetails. One important thing to mention is that brassicas can also be planted with perennials. In the North they traditionally plant perennials during the spring, but in the South this can be a great way to kill two birds with one planting. If you’re in the transitional region or north and habitually have problems with weeds in your perennials, planting a brassica/perennial blend during the late summer can produce a great start to a perennial plot. Blends like Perfect Plot or Premium Perennial are my go-to products for this. You just need to make certain when planted you give the perennials 50 to 60 days of growth so they can establish their root systems, which will ensure their survival and reemergence after winter dormancy. With the perennial/brassica option since obviously the brassicas are annuals and won’t come back, I would suggest that you over-seed with a pure perennial like Clover Plus or Non-Typical the following spring to fill in any spaces vacated by the annual brassicas growing there the previous year. In a very roundabout way, I guess I’ve tried to convey that “variety in a food plot program is important” and “brassicas are my favorite food plot crop.” All of the plants mentioned are great choices for a food plot, but they’re eaten at different times or under different conditions, which is exactly why it is wise to plant a variety if you have enough acreage to devote.

If you’re looking for a live bait that will attract fish, mealworms are a great option. These small worms are high in protein and fat, making them irresistible to many fish species. In addition, they’re easy to find and relatively inexpensive. Here’s everything you need to know about using mealworms for fishing.

Benefits of Using Mealworms as Bait

There are several benefits to using mealworms as bait. First, they’re a natural food source for many fish species. This means that fish are more likely to bite on a mealworm than something they don’t typically eat.

Second, mealworms are high in nutrition, making them an ideal food source for fish, as it gives them the energy they need to grow and thrive.

Third, mealworms are relatively easy to find and purchase. You can find them at most bait shops or online. They’re also relatively inexpensive, making them a great option for budget-minded anglers.

How to Use Mealworms as Bait

Using mealworms is simple – thread them onto your hook and cast your line into the water. The mealworms will wiggle and squirm, attracting fish to your line. In addition, their soft bodies make them easy for fish to eat. The size of the hook depends on the size of the fish you are hoping to catch.

Ways to use mealworms for fishing also depend on the fish you’re targeting. For example, if you’re fishing for trout, you can thread the mealworm onto a hook and cast your line into a pool or stream.

The movement of the mealworm will attract the trout, and when they bite, you can reel them in. If you’re fishing for catfish, you can drop a handful of mealworms into the water and wait for the catfish to bite.

What Type of Fish Can You Catch with Mealworms as a Bait? Mealworms are effective for many different fish species, including trout, bass, panfish, and catfish. When fishing for trout, try using a small mealworm. For bass, use a larger worm. And for catfish, use a handful of worms.

How to Buy Mealworms

You can find mealworms at most bait shops or online. If you’re buying them online, make sure to purchase them from a reputable source. Look for a supplier that offers guaranteed live delivery and ships their worms in a breathable container. Also, be sure to choose the correct size worm for the fish you’re hoping to catch.

How to Keep the Mealworms Fresh for Fishing

Mealworms are live bait, so it’s essential to keep them alive and fresh. The best way to do this is to purchase a breathable container, such as a mesh bag, and store them in a cool, dark place. Change the bedding regularly and mist the worms with water to keep them hydrated. You can also purchase a live bait aerator to keep the mealworms alive and fresh for longer periods.

Buy Mealworms for Fishing from Sunshine State Worms

If you’re looking for high-quality mealworms as bait for fishing, look no further than Sunshine State Worms. We offer live delivery and guaranteed live arrival on all our worms.

We also ship our worms in a breathable container to ensure they arrive alive and fresh. Plus, we have a wide variety of sizes to choose from, so you can find the perfect worm for your fishing needs. Visit our website today to learn more and place your order.

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Are you an angler wondering how long you can keep your catch fresh while fishing?

A popular solution is to put freshly caught fish on ice, and leave them there until you go home.

But how long can you keep fish on ice, and more specifically, how long will ungutted fish last if you keep it on ice?

Here’s the quick answer:

If fish are bled correctly after catching, they can be stored on ice without gutting for 24-48 hours without negative effects.

After that the quality starts to deteriorate, and you’re better off freezing them instead.

How long can you keep ungutted fish on ice?

If you’re planning to keep freshly caught fish on ice, make sure to bleed the fish first before putting them on ice, which is essential to avoid discoloration of the meat.

You don’t want the blood to coagulate inside the fish, and the only way to avoid that is by bleeding them right after catching.

Once fish have been bled correctly, you can keep them ungutted on ice for 24-48 hours without negative effects on taste.

And after you take them home at the end of the day, you can continue to keep the ungutted fish in the refrigerator for another 24-36 hours.

After that you really need to clean them if you want to avoid deterioration of quality.

How long can you keep ungutted fish without ice?

If you’re fishing in the warm season and don’t have ice with you, you can keep your fish for about half a day before it starts to go bad.

However, you’ll need to bleed and clean the fish right after catching. After that keep them dry and in a shady place, and they will be fine until you go home later that day.

If you want to preserve fish longer than half a day in the summer without ice, then the only option is to salt them.

For this you need to rub a lot of salt inside the body cavity after cleaning, as well as all over the outside.

Remember that once you’re ready to eat the fish, you need to soak them in water to remove as much of the salt as possible.

What’s the best way to keep fish fresh after catching?

Ideally, you’ll want to bleed and gut fresh fish immediately after catching them, and then keep them on ice until you cook them on the same day, or the next day.

Raw fish should only be kept in the fridge for a maximum of 2 or 3 days before eating it. On the other hand, if you freeze fresh fish, this preserves their quality for up to 3-8 months.

However, most anglers don’t have time to gut freshly caught fish, since they want to continue catching more fish.

In that case there are several ways to keep fish fresh while fishing. The best of these is to keep the fish alive, but this is only feasible with small fish that can be kept in a keeper net, or in a bucket of water.

If you can’t keep freshly caught fish alive, the next best option is to store them on ice, or in an ice slurry, which keeps them at a temperature of around 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit (similar to the temperature of a fridge).

This can be done quite easily by taking a cooler box with ice along on your fishing trip, though you need to keep in mind that the ice will melt by the end of the day.

If you’re ice fishing, you’re in luck, since the easiest way to keep the fish fresh is simply by leaving them on top of the ice you’re fishing on.

And if you’re planning to mount your fish, check out our guide on how to preserve fish for taxidermy.

How to bleed fish correctly

As mentioned above, it’s essential to bleed fish before putting them on ice, to ensure they stay fresh as long as possible.

The best way to do this is by cutting deeply behind the gills in a downward motion from top to bottom, as this severs all the main blood vessels that serve the gills.

You should immediately see blood come out, and then just wait 1-2 minutes until it’s done, and then quickly rinse the fish.

Can you freeze ungutted fish?

If you take ungutted fish home, you may be wondering if you can freeze the whole fish and clean them later.

The answer is yes – you can freeze fish without gutting them, and you can keep them like that for several months in the freezer without problems.

However, keep in mind that freezing whole fish is not the best solution, and it’s always better to clean fish before freezing them.

The slow freezing process in a home freezer can lead to rupturing of the stomach, which tends to have a negative effect on the taste of the meat.

Also, when you thaw the fish later on, the internal organs will start to decompose very quickly, which can also have a negative effect on taste. In order to avoid this, try to remove the gut when the fish is still partially frozen.

You should also keep in mind that you can’t refreeze fish that has been thawed, since the thawing process accelerates decomposition.

So if you catch a big fish, it’s better to clean it right away and then freeze it in small portions that you can take out of the freezer individually.

How long before ungutted fish goes bad?

If you bleed ungutted fish and then store them on ice or in the refrigerator, they can be kept for 24-48 hours without quality problems. However, it’s essential to keep fish cool for this.

If you don’t keep them cool, you only have 6-12 hours before ungutted fish goes bad. The reason for this is that bacteria and digestive enzymes inside the gut start to affect the rest of the fish.

How long does fresh caught fish last in the fridge?

Gutted fish can last up to 2 to 3 days in the fridge, while ungutted fish lasts for 1 to 2 days in the refrigerator.

Keep in mind that fish protein is highly perishable, and that a fridge only partially slows down decomposition by bacteria. This happens faster in ungutted fish because their intestines contain bacteria that accelerate decomposition.

Finally, even though you can safely eat fish that has been in the fridge for 2 or 3 days, its flavor and texture start to degrade well before it reaches this deadline, which means it will taste worse the longer you wait.

Because of this, I personally only store fresh fish for a maximum of 24 to 36 hours in the refrigerator before eating it.

How long can you freeze fish before it goes bad?

You can freeze fish for 3 to 8 months before it goes bad, and as a general rule of thumb it will be fine if kept in the freezer for 6 months or less.

And when I say “going bad” I mean deterioration of taste and texture, though it’s safe to eat frozen fish even after 1 to 2 years in the freezer.

Also note that fish with a high fat content (such as trout, mackerel and salmon) degrade faster than lean fish, and you should only keep them in the freezer for a maximum of 3 months to ensure optimal taste.

Final remarks

So in conclusion, it’s always best to bleed and fish right after catching them, and then to gut them as fast as possible.

And following that, you should try to eat or freeze the fish as fast as possible to maintain the quality.

So if you happen to be a “catch and release” angler, you’re probably glad right now because you don’t have to worry about this issue.

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Check out this video to learn how to manage your small track of land to bag your trophy buck.

ACCESS OPTION 1

Public land is certainly an option and there have been numerous trophy bucks taken off public land in Kentucky. One place to consider is Rockcastle River Wildlife Management Area (WMA) because the KDFWR just acquired it in 2016. Prior to that, it was private land and had developed a fairly abundant deer population because the former owners, and perhaps even adjacent property owners, either did not allow it to be hunted at all or permitted only “light” hunting. So, in theory at least, there could still be an older-than-average antlered bucks on the site. Also, since much of the area is reclaimed surface-mined coal land and because at least one or more adjacent landowners grow wildlife food plots on their property, the supply of herbaceous or early successional deer forage in the area should be quite high.

Other options include Daniel Boone National Forest property in Pulaski County, some of which adjoins Rockcastle River WMA, and portions of Lake Cumberland WMA that lie in Pulaski and Wayne counties.

Yancy suggested, “Those interested in deer hunting on Lake Cumberland WMA should consider using a boat to get on portions of the area that are not accessible via public roads; just be sure to inquire in advance with the Army Corps of Engineers’ Lake Manager’s Office in Somerset, Kentucky to determine whether potential hunting locations will be boat-accessible at winter pool lake levels.”

ACCESS OPTION 2

Leasing has dramatically changed the landscape of hunting across the country. Although personally, I wish it had never come to the point it is now, the reality is that if one wants to hunt quality private land, the options are limited. It typically must be owned either by the hunter, a relative or close friend or it must be leased. The days of knocking on a stranger’s door and getting permission to hunt are, for the most part, a thing of the past.

There are lots of options for finding a lease, however. Individuals with property to lease often advertise in local want ad papers, on Facebook or sometimes Craigslist. Hunt clubs do the same thing.

Hunt clubs are generally comprised of several members who divide the cost of leasing land, thereby making it more affordable to rent large tracts of quality property. When a member drops out, these clubs often advertise to find a replacement. If you to decide to join a hunt club, be prepared to adhere to a set of custom hunt rules for the club.

Many realtors are now offering property for lease. Some of these are listed as Whitetail Properties or Mossy Oak Properties, while others are simply run under the realtor name. Many specialized hunt leasing companies are also out there, and a simple search on the Internet will pop up many results.

ACCESS OPTION 3

A third option is to employ the services of an outfitter. This is often a bit pricey, but if a hunter wants to access a certain section of the state and to have an opportunity to harvest a mature whitetail, it may well be worth shelling out a few bucks. And with all the popularity of trophy hunting in Kentucky, more and more outfitters are springing up around the state every year.

Searching for an outfitter actually servicing the three counties spotlighted here only resulted in one hit, although there may be others this writer did not find. Whitetail Heaven Outfitters hunts Pulaski County and is owned by Tevis McCauley. They also hunt other Kentucky counties as well as in Ohio and Indiana.

Whitetail Heaven has been hunting trophy bucks for many years and their properties are managed extensively. Along with prime natural habitats, they use food plots, minerals and supplemental feedings to enhance the quality of the deer population. The average harvested buck with their service is right at 150 inches and the average size typically goes up each year.

Guided whitetail hunts there and at most other Kentucky outfitters typically start at about $2,000 and goes up from there. There is a 130-inch minimum harvest size at Whitetail Heaven and some farms have a 140- or 150-inch minimum. Contact them at (800) 689-6619 or (859) 509-2704, or go to whitetailheavenoutfitters.com.

PR Bobbin Knot

We couldn’t believe it when Captain Dylan Hubbard first told us that the PR Bobbin Knot has 100 percent knot strength… but so far it’s proven to be true.

The PR Bobbin Knot is the only fishing knot guaranteed to hold up 100 percent of the time (assuming you tie it correctly like Joe from Dogfish Tackle shows you below).

What does 100% knot strength mean?

It means that your fishing line — braid, fluorocarbon or monofilament — will break before the PR Bobbin Knot will (100% of the time).

Capt. Dylan says this is the ultimate knot for braid to leader connections and is unrivaled in its strength.

Its an offshore angler’s dream and will hold up against the biggest fish out there.

That being said, this is not the simplest knot to tie. It takes practice and a bobbin tool to properly tie it.

It’s also best to tie the PR Bobbin Knot the night before your fishing trip.

We created this article to be the ultimate tutorial for the PR Bobbin Knot.

To do this, we created a FREE PDF DOWNLOAD with the full guide on how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot.

We also teamed up with Capt. Dylan and Joe from Dogfish Tackle to create a video tutorial on exactly how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot.

What You’ll Need To Tie The PR Bobbin Knot

You need to make sure you have the following items to tie this knot.

What you’ll need:

1. Bobbin – This is a small tool (pictured above) that loads the tag end of your mainline up onto the tool in order to make the wraps you need to tie the PR Bobbin Knot. The bobbin helps you keep line tension during the tying process.
2. Mainline – You need a large amount of mainline tag end to spool onto your bobbin for the knot.
3. Leader Line – You need a large spool of leader line to attach to the mainline for this knot.

The bobbin is necessary for this knot and can be found at most tackle shops – especially those that cater to offshore anglers.

Bobbin prices range from about $25-80.

Note: If you don’t like to use knots that require tools, then be sure to learn the FG knot if you want to maximize the strength of your braid to mono/fluoro connections.

How To Tie The PR Bobbin Knot [Video Tutorial]

In this video, Capt. Dylan and Joe from Dogfish Tackle show you how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot and what you’ll need to do it.

Just wait until you see how tight this knot gets!

CLICK HERE to see a great tutorial showing how to tie the FG knot that was referenced in the video as the strongest knot that can be tied while out on the water without any needed tools.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for the absolute strongest line-to-line knot in the game, the PR Bobbin Knot is your best choice.

Although it is intricate and takes some practice to tie, it won’t let you down and will give you the best chance possible at landing a trophy fish of any size.

For the best results, tie this knot the night before your trip. This knot can be very difficult to tie once you’re on the boat, especially offshore while bartering with big swells.

If tied properly, this knot will not fail you.

If you’re looking for other fishing knots – such as the best terminal connection knots, loop knots and more – click here to see our fishing knots strength ranking page.

If you have any questions about the PR Bobbin Knot or how to tie it, let us know in the comments below… we’re here to help you!

Tight Lines!

Related Posts:

1. How To Tie The FG Knot [Picture & Video Tutorial]

2. How To Tie The San Diego Jam Knot [Video Tutorial And Step-By-Step Instructions]

3. How to Tie the Blood Knot [Video & Picture Tutorials]

P.S. – Be sure to share this post with any of your fishing friends and tell them that this knot is the strongest fishing knot there is!

Vibrant blooms that will be smothered in butterflies and hummingbirds! You’ll be amazed by these extremely fragrant and ornamental vines! The sturdy twining vine Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrotti ‘Goldflame’) is an incredibly hardy, native Honeysuckle Vine!

This vine has the scent of succulent sweetness as it drifts through the air from the long tubular blooms. Your Honeysuckle will easily grow to full length each year and start blooming in spring, lasting all summer long.

With no worry about invasiveness like other native species, Goldflame will fit perfectly into any garden design and size. The long tubular blooms are dark-pink and yellow and hang in bold clusters that absolutely smother this plant!

These 2-inch blooms appear in the hundreds and you will be amazed by these exotic flowers! They are a favorite among pollinators, butterflies and hummingbirds that will not be able to resist!

This is a vital source of nectar for all your beneficial insects and birds! With a longer bloom time than other Honeysuckle, you’ll have these visitors for weeks!

This vigorous vine can also be trained into a shrub or left to trail along the ground. It’s so adaptable to many conditions and very easy to manage.

These tropical flowers cling to a vigorously growing vine with reddish stems, and are absolutely vibrant as it twists and turns around your garden trellis and arbors.

Goldflame is a rugged semi-evergreen climber that’s virtually indestructible, even with haphazard pruning. Resistant to powdery mildew, Goldflame even tolerates some drought.

Each year, from June to September, you can look forward to lightly fragrant masses of deep pink and yellow, tubular flowers that give way to small inedible red berries in the fall which the songbirds just love.

How to Use Goldflame Honeysuckle In The Landscape

Despite being a fast-growing climbing vine, it won’t get into trouble in the landscape, Goldflame will ramble up trellis, fences and any place you encourage it to do so.

The Goldflame Honeysuckle is most often grown as a trailing vine with incredible flowers. It would create a dramatic effect climbing a trellis or your front porch rail.

Reaching near full height in a single growing season, this type of Honeysuckle is an amazing grower! Filling an area with deep blue-green foliage and bright blooms, these even work amazingly well in containers and act as both the upright thriller or a flowing spiller.

Lovely climbing over fences and hiding unsightly views while enhancing your own! These act as semi-evergreen in warmer growing zones and provide lush backdrop plants among your beds and borders. Beautifully spilling over retaining walls and rambling over hardscapes as an informal groundcover.

A delicious blend of hot pink and golden, exotic flowers smother this vigorous vine of vibrant blue-green as it twists and turns around your garden supports. Adapting to any style garden, these tame natives fill your landscape with color quickly! The long-lasting blooms are even suitable for indoor floral arrangements, filling your bouquets with sweet-smelling blooms.

Incorporate into your garden beds and borders on a trellis or an obelisk among your other planted flowers and perennials to add height, color, fragrance and drama throughout your landscape!

Looking fantastic growing up the columns of your pergolas and gazebos. No pollinator garden should be without something to attract butterflies and other visitors!

#ProPlantTips For Care

Deer resistant and extremely hardy, Goldflame Honeysuckle thrives in a wide range of USDA 4 through 9 hardiness zones. Just provide good air circulation and water to keep these bi-color pink flowers going strong all summer!

Loving the full sun, these are also tolerant of partial sun, especially when planted in hotter climates; appreciating the relief from the summer sun.

Goldflame is highly disease resistant and adaptable. Not particular about soil type, Honeysuckle Vines loves any well-drained soil that ranges from acidic to alkaline.

Take care when applying lawn fertilizers near flowering shrubs. These high nitrogen formulas are designed to produce foliage, but will not support flower development. Instead, apply an all-purpose fertilizer for blooming plants in early spring. Reapply in mid-summer, following label directions for application rates.

Flowering best in average moisture, Goldflame is very drought tolerant once established. Extremely easy care and low maintenance, these won’t need pruning but are highly conducive to pruning if needed.

Sometimes a plant performs just a bit too well in certain areas. Rest assured, Nature Hills uses Plant Sentry™ to track all federal, state and local regulations on invasive materials. We will always protect you and your community.

We’re happy to offer this selection for sale into areas where it will work beautifully without any concern. To check your availability, simply type in your Zip Code to Find Your Growing Zone in the section above the Plant Highlights.

You won’t go wrong by adding height, drama, color, and fragrance with these exotic blooms for your landscape! Goldflame Honeysuckle Vine is just the bold addition your garden beds have been craving! Order yours today from Nature Hills Nursery!