By: DIY_guy

We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began searching for rust inhibitors and lubrication solutions to make the maintenance of my gear as effective and efficient as possible but I understand that neglect is the primary cause of corrosion and wear and we must be diligent but having a corrosion inhibitor and lubricants aiding us in meeting those goals is helpful.

The problem is there are so many products on the market all making claims of how well they perform. Who do you trust? What is one to believe? Online searches turned up all manner of comparisons, reviews and evaluations of a couple of products here and a few more there but no large sampling of a really long list of products all compared at the same time. So that?s what I set out to do to determine for myself which product I want to use as a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Along the way I will also look at water displacement (a common claim) as well as reactions with non-metal components. The attributes I set out to evaluate are:

Water displacer:

Many of the products I purchased for this evaluation make claims in regards to being a water displacer or that they have water displacing properties. Its an interesting claim but it got me to wondering why I should care?? I thinks its great if a product displaces water does it adds to a products worth or usefulness?? We all know that moisture is everywhere from fog to rain to snow to humid environments to warm to cold condensation as well as sweat and dew. so perhaps the water displacement claims are meant to drive us to their products with promises of improved protection so I plan to investigate that claim.

Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

Lubrication:

How well does the product lubricate? And in what state, meaning does it reduce friction better in its wet form or in a dry form after its wiped away/allowed to dry? If it offers the most friction reduction in a wet form but that wet form is a magnet for dust, dirt and carbon, then its counterproductive because that wet lube becomes a gritty sludge. If it can be applied, wiped dry and still reduce friction (while fighting rust) that would be preferred. I will investigate lubrication.

Compatibility:

How safe is it for plastics, rubber and gun finishes and coatings?

That a fair question since these products are expected to be applied to guns, bows, knives, fishing gear, etc that are composed of a variety of non-metallic materials and finishes/coatings. A product that displaces water and inhibits rust is great but if it melts your plastic and rubber and destroys the finish on your gun, its destined for the trash can. I plan to investigate compatibility as well.

Corrosion inhibition:

That?s the primary reason for this evaluation. I plan to investigate these products compared to one another for their ability to delay the formation of corrosion.

The goal here is to find a product that does the best job at inhibiting corrosion, reducing friction, does not harm plastic, rubber or finishes, displaces waters and does not force me to wear a gas mask to apply. A product that can do all of the above may not exist but I?m willing to find out.

The next question was “Which products?” Until now, my stable of gun/bow/tool care products was pretty small. Like most sportsmen I had my “go-to” products because that is what my local retailer carried. I hadn’t thought much beyond availability and then fell into a comfort zone with those products. I took to the web and did a search as well as asking for suggestions on a couple of web forums and learned many of these products have passionate followers even if I had never heard of them. Was I missing out on a superior product????

The next step in the process was to take out a 2nd mortgage and buy up as many products as I could get my hands on and then wait for the brown truck to become a daily fixture in my driveway. The products I will be evaluating (in no particular order) are

Here is the entire ensemble of products I used ?in this evaluation.

Here are the products marketed and sold for gun care/maintenance.

You probably recognize many of the products in the lineup. Most are dedicated products marketed to the sportsman for this purpose but some are products that over the years have been used by sportsmen that are not necessarily marketed for this purpose. One such example is simple paste wax and Kroil which were recommended to me by people living in coastal environments. Another is WD 40 and 3 in one oil which have been used by everyone that owns metal since the 1940’s. These are not marketed as a gun care products but since they are used by so many in that regard, they were thrown into this evaluation for comparison sake. All products were purchased from either local retailers, online or at gun shows with the exception of the Pennzoil motor oil. I secured that from the local speedy oil change location and only a small amount for this evaluation.

First up is an evaluation of Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

While this evaluation might seem firearms-centric I?m hoping to come away with products that I will also use during bowhunting trips on things like my bow, broadheads, knives, pruning saws, treestands, climbing sticks, camera arms and other items I take afield as well as my firearms and hunting gear that I want to protect from corrosion. For that reason, odor/scent is something I pay close attention to. Some of these products have an odor that is present straight from the container that dissipates quickly after drying while some products continue to smell long after application. A strong odor even if its pleasant is still a strong odor and something I hope to avoid in the products I use.

I created the following ranking for odor.

No odor

Mild odor

Strong odor

And then any notes about the particular odor. I wrote down the first thing that popped into my head after taking a wiff of each product. See the data below.

**NOTE**This exercise may not account for much once you factor in the dissipation factor once dry and the scant amount left after wiping off the excess product but since I had to use each product I noted the smells and recorded them.

Next up in this evaluation is the water displacement claim. In regards to water displacement, the implied message is that the product, if applied to a wet gun/bow/tool will drive out (displace) the moisture and then protect the metal from moisture and corrosion. This is a pretty easy claim to prove or disprove since the very definition of displacement occurs when an object that is introduced to water, pushes the water out of the way and takes its place (displacing the water). If a product simply floats on top of water, it does not ?displace? it.

If the product doesn?t break the surface tension of water, penetrate and displace the water to reach metal parts, then for the purposes of this evaluation It won?t be counted as a water displacer. In contrast, those products that break the surface tension of water, displace the water and penetrate it will be counted as water displacers. This will be done with the raw product directly from their container and NOT the dried or cured product after the propellant, carriers or distillates evaporate or dissolves.

The process of evaluating water displacement is as follows.

1. A container is partially filled with water

2. Raw product (from its original container) is introduced to the water filled container.

3. The product is observed and noted as to whether it displaced (penetrated, broke the surface tension) of the water or whether it simply rested on top of the water.

It should be noted that the ability of a product to displace water does not automatically imply that it will inhibit rust or provide lubrication. A rock or brick (if placed in a container of water) will displace water but will offer no corrosion protection or lubrication. Simply because a product can actually displace water does not automatically translate into corrosion inhibiting or lubrication properties.

Rust inhibiting and lubrication will be evaluated separately but so many of the products made a point of claiming water displacing properties that I thought it worth evaluating. In the grand scheme I dont know if water displacing is going to amount to a hill of beans since lubrication and corrosion fighting can take place even if the product does not displace water but so many of the products made the displacement claim that I opted to evaluate it.

Results: The vast majority of the products evaluated DID NOT displace water. 3 in one oil is a good example. It was in no way a water displacing agent but to its credit, it does not claim to be.

Rather than listing each product and whether or not it displaced water, Here are the only 3 that DID displace water as well as a look at 3 in one oil as a comparison. The water displacing products are:

The picture above can be a bit deceiving. The 3 water displacers look as if a thin film of product is floating on the water. That is not the case. What you are seeing is the surface tension of the water acting like a mirror. You can tell by looking closely to see the reflection of the top of metal hex nut that looks to be floating on that thin film. There was no floating compound on the surface of any of the 3 products. I then rolled and tilted and shook the bottle to see if the compound clung to the metal surface and kept water off the metal part. In all cases, the metal part was coated in the compound and resisted water clinging to the metal. After this agitation I allowed the bottles to rest for an hour to see if the compound separated or changed in any way after being exposed to the water. No change was noted. I did however observe some changes to the plastic bottle that held the Strike hold product. Notice the impact Strike Hold had on the plastic bottle. That leads me to the next area of interest.

Compatability:

Next up is evaluating compatibility with non-metal compounds. This is a tough claim to challenge since there are more plastic and rubber compounds and types of finishes than anybody could possibly check. Some products clearly stated they are not safe for rubber or plastic or finishes and cautioned the user to first test on a discrete location. Other products stated they are safe for (or outright encouraged use) on finishes, leather, wood, etc while still others made no warning nor statement in this regard. A simple check for reaction is to place a small amount of each product on polystyrene (Styrofoam) and observe the reaction. We know what Gas and Acetone do to Styrofoam and we wouldn?t use those harsh products on our gun finish or plastics or rubber so I will use that as a base for this evaluation. Compounds known to destroy polystyrene are Gasoline, Benzene, Toluene, Acetone, Xylene. There are other agents harmful to polystyrene but you get the point. Since its not practical to do a compatibility evaluation with every known type of plastic and every type of gun finish and paint, I only tested polystyrene and took the warnings about compatibility from the product labels.

The majority of the products did not harm nor soften polystyrene. Here is the sheet I used for the evaluation.

Here is an easier to read image of the products in this evaluation that dissolved polystyrene. It should be noted that all 3 water displacers were harmful to the evaluation sheet of polystyrene yet 6 other products that were not water displacers were also harmful to the sheet.

lubrication:

The reduction of friction/heat in moving metal parts is what I evaluated next. Many of the products make claims in regards to lubrication meaning a reduction in friction/heat/wear. (some make fantastic claims) To evaluate lubrication claims I will evaluate static friction forces. If you slept through your science/physics classes, Static Friction is the force that resists the movement of two objects against one another when the objects are initially at rest. To evaluate the lubrication claims I made a simple device to evaluate static friction forces. Two polished steel surfaces are used to mimic firearms parts. Its size and length of travel was meant to mimic the travel of the action of your typical firearm. A force is applied to cause the weighted steel sled to begin moving on a steel track. Increasing amounts of water are added to a container that is tethered to the weighted sled until the weight is great enough to overcome friction and move the sled. The weight of that water will be recorded to establish a factor compared to dry steel against dry steel.

To establish a baseline value for two dry steel surfaces, the exercise was repeated 8 times and then an average was established. Each product will be evaluated by applying the product to both surfaces and recording the amount of weight (force) required to get the weighted sled to move and then repeating the exercise 8 times to arrive at an average force.

Here are a few photos of the device used to capture static friction forces.

Here is a brief video of the device in action. (note that in an effort to make the video as short as possible I poured the water faster then I will during the actual evaluation)

How much lube to use:

We have all been instructed to apply lubrication liberally and to wipe off any excess. This seems counter intuitive if you consider something like packing a wheel bearing or using a grease zerk where metal parts are suspended in a bath of lubricant. Gun parts, folding knives, fishing reels and tools however are tightly toleranced with almost no room for large volumes of lubricant but aside from space constraints, excess lubricants cause an increase in effort required to get parts moving. I?m not versed in fluid dynamics but I quickly learned what happens when too much lubricant is applied. Being curious about what I observed I took to the web to review terms such as ?Cohesion?, “Adhesion”, ?Fluid tackiness?, “Viscosity” and “Fluid shear” which explained what I was observing.

Excess lubricant acted like a glue that slowed or resisted parts from movement because of the surface tension and viscosity of the excess lube. As I removed more and more of the excess, I observed that less force was required to overcome static friction. In almost every case I found that removing all visible lubricant resulted in the lowest levels of friction between the two polished steel plates. What we have been told is correct, apply liberally to coat and then remove all excess to the point where you think you have removed too much and you will enjoy the least amount of friction. The side benefit to that dry level of lubrication is that it will not attract foreign contaminants that could get trapped in excess/wet lubricant.

To ensure there is no cross contamination of products on the sled/track device, after each product is evaluated, the sled and track are cleaned with acetone and paper towels until the dry to dry friction values were restored. Several dry runs are performed before the next product was evaluated.

NOTE** I recognize this evaluation may have deficiencies. My lubrication evaluation was conducted at 70 degrees F so it is unknown if the results would be the same if evaluated at 0 or 120 degrees F. Also I am not evaluating longevity. I cycled each product 8 times to arrive at an average force and understand that a product that performed well during 8 cycles may fail long term where a product that performed slightly worse may in fact have better long term lubrication. With that said, equity was my first priority. Every product and action was conducted the same way to ensure each product was getting a fair evaluation.

I recorded the results of the force required to move the sled and used a spreadsheet to tabulate the results for this chart.

To ensure that I was getting credible data and to increase my confidence level, I conducted the lubrication evaluation a 2nd time because as you can see, one product (Frog Lube) in the first evaluation reduced friction so much that I could no add water to the container. Simply hanging the empty container on the device caused the sled to move. For the 2nd evaluation I added weight to the sled and raised the end of the track to create a 10 degree upward slope meaning the sled would have to slide up-hill with the added weight. The results changed but not by much. The top 10 performers remained the top 10 and the bottom 10 remained the bottom 10. The products did jockey each other for position within their respective groups. Here is a chart showing the results from the 2nd evaluation for friction. To make it a little easier to read I am showing only the top 10 performers and the bottom 10 performers in their new rankings.

Corrosion protection:

Lastly I evaluated corrosion protection and inhibiting. It?s a common claim made by the products in this evaluation so I want to evaluate that as well. Some of the products state that they meet or exceed this test and spec or that test and certification (the most common being ASTM B117 and ISO 9227 salt fog chamber corrosion test and a variety of mil specs. ) All of those tests are very good and harsh controlled environment tests but where I found them lacking was:

1. No UV component. All the tools and gear I use spend a lot of time outside and UV rays break down even the best of products . Those UV effects are not mimicked in a sealed fog chamber in a lab.

2. Constant temps. Our gear is expected to perform in subzero to super-hot temps and sometimes those fluctuations may happen all in the same day or week. A fixed 95 degree F test is certainly equitable to all the samples but not a true environmental test with real world applications for a guy that hunts in freezing temps and then brings his gun into the cabin where it sets near the wood stove to dry out and then is returned to sub-freezing temps the next day.

3. Proximity and cross contamination. Since it?s just not cost effective to test each metal plate all by itself in a fog chamber, many samples are ganged together in a small test chamber. Being that the test chamber is only so big, they are positioned very near one another and samples are misted with the same recycled salt water carrying the corrosion from products failing the test (and the products being tested) onto samples adjacent to other parts. I hope to avoid that.

4. No real life dirt or debris. The wind carries all manner of debris on it that rests on metal parts (some more than others) An outdoor evaluation more closely simulates real ?in the field? situations.

For these reasons (and because I plan to sample far more products than has perhaps been done at the same time during any other evaluation conducted) and because I want to increase my confidence level in the results I get, I conducted 3 evaluations. Many of the home spun evaluations I have seen online ran only a single sample set implying the results would be the same if repeated. I ran 3 separate evaluations under a variety of conditions. A portion of this evaluation took place outdoors in direct sunlight with the fluctuations of night and daytime temps as well as UV exposure and wind, airborne debris and rain. Rain or not I planned to mist one group of the sample plates with a salt / water solution in the ratio of 1 tsp non-iodized salt per cup of tap water (and I have hard water with mineral deposits). This will be the most harsh environment meant to expedite the formation of corrosion.

All the sample plates were given a 320 grit (two direction) brushed finish to remove any rust inhibitors the steel maker placed on the steel so they don?t rust in the store. Then the plates were chemically cleaned with acetone prior to applying the product. Each product in the evaluation was applied to the metal per the product instructions on the label. Nearly all products labels direct the user to apply liberally and then wipe off excess product. I followed those instructions as I don?t care for a sloppy, wet gun where excess product is dripping or rubbing off, onto my clothing, gear or car. I left an amount of product on the metal just as I would when I store my firearms. The plates were attached to a suitable (non-metallic) holder at a roughly 15 degree angle from vertical. I didn?t want them lying flat so water would pool on them and I didn?t want them standing perfectly upright either as they would shed water and debris too easily.

All the metal samples were sheared out of the same sheets of cold rolled steel sourced at my local hardware store. Several of these sheets were purchased for this evaluation.

Here is sample board #1 after all the products had been applied to the sample plates. This sample board then sat in my shop for 5 hours to allow the products to fully dry or cure or evaporate or set a film before the board was exposed to the elements.

Here is a short video of all the samples on board #1.

Then the samples were misted with the salted water. Here is a closer view of the plates after the misting. Notice the different reactions with water. Most plates beaded the water.

Not all products beaded water. I don?t know the significance of this but observed and recorded it anyway. The products that did not bead water can be seen below.

After 2 hours I observed the samples. The controls were already exhibiting signs of corrosion. White spots are the result of the salt left behind after the water evaporated and does not indicate rust, just dried salt.

The plates spent the night outside and it was quite a night. Temps in the upper 30’s, a storm rolled through with wind gusts to 30 MPH and on and off rain. 24 hours after each product was applied to the plates they were observed for signs of corrosion.

**NOTE** Before I go further I will state that during the process of applying the products to the plates, I had to hold the plates by the very edges. The last contact with the plates was along the very top edge as I pushed the sample into the foam board. Some samples took considerable force to place them in the foam. For this reason I will not count against the products that are essentially corrosion free but exhibit corrosion along the edges where otherwise the bulk of the surface is corrosion free. The edge rusting is a result of my handling the samples and removing the product.

Here is sample board #1 after 24 hours

Some of the corroded samples. (some with only light corrosion and others with significant corrosion)

Here is a video of sample board #1 after 24 hours. It?s still quite windy as you will be able to hear in the video. Pause and restart as required to get a better look at samples of interest to you.

I recorded the samples with mild rusting and major rusting after 24 hours. The samples exhibiting mild rusting were

Rand CLPBallistolBreakfree CLPHoppe’s MDLRusteprufeBoeshield T-9Rem Oil w/ moisture guardATF

The samples exhibiting significant rusting were

KroilPB-50Rem Oil (regular)GunzillaSuper LubeMilitec-1Hoppe?s EliteAce Silicone GreaseAtsko Silicone SprayPennzoil3 in One oilRIG #2GibbsPaste waxBoth Controls

After 24 hours of exposure, 22 of the 46 products (48%) have already begun to show signs of corrosion but remember, the samples were misted with a salt water solution to speed up the process. The 2nd and 3rd group of plates will NOT have a salted water application.

After 48 hours of Board #1 being placed outside, here is a list of the products on board #1 that are still preventing corrosion.

CRC 3-36

M-Pro 7 LPX

Fluid Flim

Archoil AR4400

Quicken HP

Clenzoil

Barricade

Corrosion X

Frog Lube

Eezox

Hoppe?s gun oil

One Shot

WD-40 Specialist

Gun Seal

Rust Prevent

After 72 hours (and lots of wind and rain), the un-corroded sample plates on board #1 are

After 96 hours (and a mostly rain free day) here are the remaining plates from board #1 still protecting from corrosion.

After 120 hours with a day of light rain, the remaining samples have dwindled to just 3.

Another day of on and off rains and the final three are still holing on.

A rare sunny and windy day. 168 hours (7 days) have elapsed since I placed Board #1 outside. No change from the day before.

At this point I will close out the evaluation of board #1 (but continue to monitor) Here is a picture of the entire board.

Here is a video so you can get a better look at each sample. Start and stop the video as you see fit. Despite the constant rains and clouds, the UV rays have taken their toll on the sharpie marker used to denote each brand.

The second group of plates was also evaluated outdoors and started the day after board #1. The metal samples were treated with product and then sat in my shop for 12 hours to dry, cure, evaporate, film-over before the board was placed outside. Here is sample board #2

Here is a short video close up of all the samples on board #2. Even though I crossed off Frog Lube a couple days ago because of the formation of corrosion you will see its still doing a pretty good job of protecting the plate.

The plan was to mist them with clean water but with all the rain that was not required. The duration of the evaluation was a mix of sunny and bright and heavy rains but very windy exposing the samples to UV, wind, rain, dust and all the other elements we encounter when using our firearms, bows, knives, tools, etc. It was a time to conduct such an experiment.

I?m sure everybody living in my area of the state hated this wet stormy spring weather except me. I couldn?t have picked a better set of days to do this evaluation. Upper 30?s to low 40?s, high winds, on and off showers and breaks of sunlight and cold rainy nights. Its like living in a corrosion test chamber.

Most evaluations of this nature run a single set of samples and call it good enough. I?m running 3 sample boards and already I am seeing differences in results from board #1 to board #2 so I think it was a wise move to run multiple samples. Recall that board #1 was misted with a salted water solution to expedite corrosion. Sample board #2 has only seen exposure to rain water but the results after 24 hours are showing sample board #2 is has more product failures than board #1 in its first 24 hours (something I did not expect to see). When I observed sample board #1 after 24 hours, a total of 23 samples exhibited signs of corrosion. Sample board #2 has been outside for 24 hours and already 34 of the 46 products are exhibiting signs of corrosion (74% of the products are failing)

Oddly, the controls on board #2 (which are treated with nothing) are faring better than some of the plates that are protected by product (opposite of what was observed on board #1)

Here is a photo of sample board #2 after the first 24 hours.

It?s a shorter list to name the products that are still providing resistance to corrosion on Sample board #2. They are.

Gun Seal

WD-40 Specialist

Hoppe?s gun oil

Boeshield T-9

Frog Lube

Rust prevent

Tuf-Glide

Rem Oil with moisture Guard

Weapons Shield

Hornady One Shot

Militec-1

Rand CLP

Here is a video of board #2 so you can see which products are failing in the first 24 hours. (don?t confuse debris with rust. The video may make it look like some plates are corroding when they are actually use dirty from all the wind blown debris and rain)

After 48 hours, the un-corroded samples from board #2 are shown below (I contend that the Hornady ?s One Shot, edge corrosion shown below is edge contamination on my part as described earlier. I can?t otherwise explain why the majority of the plate is corrosion free expect a strip along the left edge except that I failed to apply the product to that portion of the plate.)

Its clear that if I had only used a single sample board, I would have arrived are incorrect conclusions about some of these products. Multiple boards that show products preventing corrosion on those boards increases the confidence level in the evaluation.

With a break in the rains here are the remains of Board #2

More rain and the list is growing shorter.

After 120 hrs, Board #2 is down to the final 3.

144 hours and no change from the day before. Based on board #1 and no change in board #2 I am ending the evaluation of board #2

Here is a picture of Board #2

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2…ps567f25ba.jpg

Here is a video of Board #2 so you can get a close up view of each product. Pause and restart as you see fit.

By now you may have noticed some commonality in the remaining samples of board #2 and board #1. Results would indicate that

Hoarnady’s One shot

WD 40 Specialist

And perhaps Frog Lube

Have shown they outperform the others with Rust Prevent also doing a heck of a job. Running multiple boards has increased my confidence level in the results observed. But there is a third corrosion evaluation (the indoor one) that started the same day and Board #2. I will remind you that Board #1 and #2 were extreme conditions (abuse) simply to expedite the formation of corrosion under salted water and rain water conditions (as well as fog, cold temps, temp fluctuations, lots of wind and some UV rays thrown in for good measure). It?s doubtful any gun, bow, knife or tool owner is going to subject his gear to this in real life but that is the nature of such an evaluation. By design it was meant to be tough. Board 3 will more closely mimic conditions seen while storing our gear.

The third and final Board will be a combination evaluation. One portion will focus on the fingerprint issue on firearms and the other portion of the evaluation deals with longevity. This evaluation will be conducted indoors with no application of water to speed up corrosion.

Here is sample board #3 with all the plates coated in their respective products. Sample Board #3 sat in my shop for 4 hours to allow all the products to dry or cure or evaporate or skim over (some products make claims in this regard) then each was given a fingerprint on the metal. We all have different oils and acids and salts in our fingerprints so not every fingerprint will cause the same level of corrosion. I don?t have 48 fingers and washing after each sample to prevent cross contamination would only remove the salts and oils from my finger so I had to outsource the fingerprint job to a friend (we will call him “Frank” or “Oscar”) because I will substitute a hotdog for a finger.

Like me the hotdog is made mostly of meat (with some fillers) water, salt and fat (in my case perhaps too much fat) to prevent cross contamination, a fresh slice was made off the end of the sacrificial wiener to provide an equitable fingerprint on each sample plate. A nice greasy and salty fingerprint was placed in the lower left hand corner of each sample.

Sample board #3 will spend its time in my dinning room and be observed for signs of corrosion.(Until my wife gets sick of it and makes me move out into my shop)

Board #3 will be observed and photographed and at the point plates begin to fail (determined as rust appearing on the surface) they will be tallied until all the samples have failed and I expect at some point all will eventually fail. It may take weeks or months (perhaps years) for that to happen to sample board #3. As of this writting its been 9 days with no signs of corrosion on any plates.

As for me, Here is what I took away from this (even though Board #3 is still being observed)

With this evaluation behind me, I an unlikley to condsider the WD 40 specialist as a gun care product because it wasnt marketed as a cleaner (not meant to be a cleaner so I cant knock for that) and it didnt rank terribly high for lubrication but I will be using it for many other outdoor applications and tools where I want to delay corrosion. The column of my drill press, the top of my table saw, my lathe, saw blades, hand tools and lots of other tools will benefit from its ability to protect from rust.

Frog lube impressed in both lubrication and corrosion inhibition but I wonder how good a cleaner it is? The mfgr website touts it as a cleaner but I am uncertain. (only speculation on my part)

Hornady’s One Shot strikes me as more of a cleaner than Frog Lube and WD 40 specialist (speculation on my part) and it certainly performed well as a lube and corrosion inhibitor.

Final thoughts

1. There are two enemies to our guns. Neglect and liberal Democrats who dislike the 2nd amendment. Do everything in your power to make sure neither are allowed to make any advances on your weapons.

2. Use these products in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. Health is your first wealth. Protect it like you do your gear.

3. Water displacing claims don?t mean much. None of the 3 water displacers performed well in the corrosion or lubrication evaluation.

4. Don?t over lube. Its far worse than under lubing. Wipe off the lube to the point you think you may have taken off too much and you should be just about right.

5. Not all gun care products are created equal. Choose wisely. Knowledge is power. I have a little more thanks to this evaluation.

6. If you have had a preferred gun care product that has served you well for many years, there is no need to change even if your product did not fare well in this evaluation. If your outdoor gear functions well and is corrosion free and you are happy with the product and like the smell, why fix what isn?t broken. See note 1.

7. This WAS NOT an evaluation of all the gun care products on the market. It was only an evaluation of the 46 products I assembled for this evaluation. If your favorite product was not included in this evaluation, all anybody can do is speculate as to how it WOULD have performed. While seaking suggestions for which products to include in this evaluation, The recommendations I received came with comments about how I needn’t to look any further than their preferred brand as it is the best of the best. In spite of asking for suggestions on multiple forums, nobody recommended Hornady One shot. I found it via a web search at Midway’s web site. Frog lube was suggested by many. If there is a better product out there, I will no doubt hear about soon by those lamenting the fact it wasn’t included in this evaluation.

8. Since I now have more product than any person should own, I may entertain conducting another evaluation with additional products to see how they stack up against the top 5 from this evaluation. I’ve set aside the friction test bed (after coating it with WD 40 specialist to prevent rust) just in case I get the urge.

Edited May 6 9. I am In no way affiliated with or in any way attached to any of the products or companies of the products I evaluated. I am in no way compensated by any product brand name or manufacturer as a result of this evaluation. No company asked me to conduct this evaluation. All products were purchased by me and none were sent or gifted to me for this evaluation.

Upon completion of this evaluation I sent emails to several of the manufacturers of the products used. Thus far (4 days after sending the emails) I have received only one reply and it came from the founders of Frog Lube. Here is that reply.

?Ron,

We are stunned by the exhaustive and comprehensive approach of your testing. And we are quite flattered at the result. You have done something no one else has done.

We do our testing in primarily in operating firearms, but we have done some technical tests such as the corrosion and lubricity testing and have seen the same results.

May we use this link to share with our customers on line and in our facebook page? We have lots of fans (and a few competitors) who would appreciate seeing this.

Also, we very much appreciate your ‘objectivity’ and your public claims. This strengthens the validity of your results.

Thanks again for sharing this profound work with us.

Larry Lasky & Stacy LaskyFrogLube Founders ?

—-

I replied to them with the following:

?Feel free to share or distribute the info as you see fit. Prior to this evaluation I had never used Frog Lube (or many of the products I evaluated) so I was curious and ended up doing this evaluation. My search for lube and corrosion solution was not entirely firearms centric as I am more of an archer and bowhunter so I would like to make this request. Archery and Bowhunting are very large markets with direct overlap to firearms owners. The same holds true for the rapidly increasing crossbow and crossbowhunting market. All of these user groups require lubrication and corrosion solutions.

The main difference for the bowhunting and crossbow hunting market is the scent/smell of products we use due to how close bowhunters and perhaps crossbow hunters have to get to prey to make a successful shot. The minty smell of Frog Lube may keep this user group from using your product. Would it be possible to remove the minty scent and create a scent free version? Breaking into the archery/bowhunting and crossbow hunting market would create another demographic purchasing your product. Please consider it. You would certainly have me as a customer for more than just firearms usage.

Ron?

Its been 288 hours (12 days) since Board #1 was placed outside and 264 hours (11 days) for Board #2 so I thought I would update. There has been some rain this week but lots of sun and wind and the trees are spreading all manner of pollen and debris in the air. The Sun?s UV rays have all but made the sharpie marker unreadable but I have a map and can still make it out enough to see.

Here are the two boards where they are residing on the patio.

And here are the close-ups of the samples.

As for Board #3 in my house. Its been 240 hours (10 days) and as expected, the indoor protection in a constant environment has them all still in fine shape.

?

We have been experiencing torrential rains and flash flooding. When it isn?t raining its very humid. Its certainly been a wet spring. The UV rays have now completely erased the sharpie marker labels on the boards but I know which is which from prior photos. Here is a picture of the two boards with board #1 at 15 days (360 hours) and board #2 at 14 days (336 hours). The top 3 performing products are continuing to protect the steel plates.

Its been 20 days since I started board #3 which is the indoor board with the (hotdog) fingerprint.

The first (and only) sample so far to exhibit corrosion has appeared. The rust is only in the fingerprint area. The sample plate is the one coated with Eezox.

Update on the two outdoors corrosion boards. Hornady One shot has finally failed on Board #2 Leaving Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist but the Hornady product is still going strong on board #1.

Private land ownership and property information is a key value of onX Hunt—and, for many, one of the key reasons they choose to continue their onX membership. Hunters, hikers, and anyone heading into the outdoors depend on the onX Hunt App to show them an array of information, including public/private boundaries and land ownership information.

We have a variety of in-house teams here at onX who spend their days aggregating and managing data from various sources; information which then flows into our three apps. Day in and day out, we’re working within our system to ensure we remain the source to which you can confidently turn when you’re heading into the field and need accurate information.

While we source all information from a broad variety of sources, one of the most challenging is maintaining updated private land ownership information. We’re beholden to external sources for this information, and can only update our information within the onX Hunt App when these sources themselves are updated.

In an effort to ensure the most accurate land ownership information enters the App, we work with a variety of data sources around the country to gather information, including several private data providers as well as directly from a state and/or a county. Some government sources only update their files once a year, while others update weekly or not at all. The ownership info found in the 3,143 U.S. county databases doesn’t always match other databases—we know, because we check. Utilizing private data providers in addition to government sources allows us to unlock new methods of update delivery and frequency that, put quite simply, government sources sometimes lack. For some counties and some states, accurate and updated government public parcel data is challenging to source, and private sources can help us bridge those data gaps.

This parcel data comes in two different categories: spatial and attribution. Changes in spatial data means the parcel size itself has changed (for example, a single parcel has split in half, or two parcels have merged), and this information always comes from the relevant county. Attribution, as the name would suggest, represents the name of the parcel owner and other details such as address, tax ID, and additional details. We use both private and county sources to source this attribution information, as sometimes private vendors have faster ways of updating this information than the counties themselves. Eventually, the county will update attribution information and send it out; however, that process has been known to take years.

At onX, we have individuals who seek out and vet sources throughout the year to determine whether the data they provide would be better than whatever data a given state or county is currently supplying. Each of these sources is updated at various intervals depending on the state or county, and then we take their updated data and verify it through our own systems before moving it into the apps.

Once we have the updated private parcel data information, our in-house mapping team works to confirm the changes using a mixture of manual and automatic review processes, cleaning the parcel geometries and ensuring boundaries match. If there are issues, our curation team will step in and assist with the process. Once the data is ready, we adjust the information within our system, and then confirm the alignment of the new boundaries to existing public lands boundaries. Once the information is confirmed and verified, it will then be added to the next App update flow.

In short, if an official data source has not updated its land ownership records, we don’t have new information to flow into our Apps.

So, what does this mean for you if you or a friend has a property that’s showing incorrect ownership information in the onX Hunt App? While we may be waiting for new data to process through the county or state level, you can reach out to our team directly and submit a map error. Include as many details as possible—the more information, the better! The error report is sent directly to our mapping team, who will verify the information. If the report is verified, it will be corrected the next time we update the area. We continually work to help make all of these processes more efficient so we can move data more quickly while maintaining our high standard of quality.

Map accuracy is a cornerstone of how we work at onX. While many of our competitors only pull ownership data from a single source, we utilize a variety of different sources, cross-referencing and doing our own in-house comparisons to ensure the data that makes it into the Hunt App is as accurate as possible. However, we’re still held to relying upon the counties and our other data partners to keep their information up-to-date and accurate. It takes a great deal of time and effort to gather the data, format it for use in our maps, double-check everything and finally release the update, so we appreciate your patience throughout the process.

Thank you for helping us correct any errors from our data sources. You have the power to help us correct these errors—help us find the mistakes and to keep the information updated. We take the data within our maps very seriously, and work intently to ensure you’re getting the best possible information within our apps.

Montana is one of the most popular places for elk hunting. With elk populations that exceed 150,000 animals throughout the state, it is a prime place to consider an elk hunting vacation. However, there are certain things to consider before planning your elk hunting in Montana trip.

Each state that allows hunting of elk and other game animals has its own rules and regulations that are designed to protect animal populations and ensure that hunting activities are safe for both hunters and the ecosystem.

Like other states, elk hunting in Montana carries its own rules and regulations for hunting game animals, and understanding these rules will make it easier to plan a hunting trip.

If you are considering elk hunting in Montana, it is good to remember that just because you have a license and permit, and have all the plans in place, you may not actually take an animal.

So, it is a good idea to manage your expectations. In some more popular hunting spots, the rate of success is only about 2%, so be prepared to come home empty-handed.

However, if you are successful, Montana has the potential for taking some massive, trophy-worthy bull elk. If you’re patient and well prepared, your chance of success is good.

Elk Hunting in Montana – A Guide

Northwest Montana is where you will find the best Elk Hunting under Big Sky Country. Combine this with the high success rate for hunters, 17.4 success rate as reported by FWP, and it is easy to see why hunting in Montana is so desirable- there are over 132 outfitters in the state with many offering hunting trips.

When is the Montana Elk Hunting Season?

It is important to understand the hunting season for each game animal that you are interested in collecting, no matter which state you visit. Hunting game animals outside of their designated hunting seasons is considered poaching and can land you in hot water.

Hunting for elk in Montana is no different, and you should be well aware of their hunting seasons and limitations. Each year Montana puts out a complete booklet of rules and regulations for the antelope, deer, and elk seasons. You should read this before you plan your trip.

In Montana, deer and elk season run at the same time. This may not be the case in other states. In 2022 the elk hunting season is as follows:

Archery Season runs from September 3 – October 16, Youth Season (deer only) from October 20th to the 21st, General (rifle and archery) from October 22 until November 27, and Muzzleloader runs from December 10 – 18.

For Backcountry (Districts 150, 280, 316), Archery runs September 3 – 14 while General hunting runs September 15 – November 27.

What is the Best Time to go Elk Hunting in Montana?

Montana elk season is pretty robust, running longer than in neighboring states like Colorado and Wyoming. So, there really isn’t a bad time within Montana’s elk hunting season.

However, if you are looking for the best chance of taking an animal under your license, experienced hunters suggest that during the first few weeks of the general season. As such, the entirety of the archery season offers the first chance to hunt for elk in Montana.

There are also shoulder seasons for Montana elk hunting, and these may give you an even better opportunity to snag a great elk. Shoulder seasons and their regulations change each year, so make sure you know when and where you can hunt for elk during the shoulder seasons.

What is the Difference Between a License and Permit?

In order to hunt in Montana, you will need both a hunting license and a permit. They are two different things, and without one or the other, you cannot legally hunt for elk in Montana.

The first thing you need to get to elk hunting in Montana is a license. The license gives you the legal right to hunt and kill an elk in the state of Montana. There are different licenses for residents, non-residents, youth, disabled, and even former residents. Knowing what you need is the first step to hunting in Montana.

Once you have a hunting license in Montana, you will need to apply for an elk permit. The permit allows you to hunt in a particular area of the state. The state is divided into numerous hunting areas.

You’ll need to know which areas you want to hunt in and apply for those locations. Once you have your permit, remember, that hunting outside of the designated area of your permit is illegal and can result in serious consequences.

How do Non-Residents Get an Elk License?

If you are planning a hunting trip to Montana to hunt elk, it is important that you understand the process for acquiring a hunting license for non-residents of Montana. Montana residents can buy a license from a variety of locations throughout the state, so long as they are available.

However, that is not the case for non-residents. If you do not live in Montana and would like to hunt for elk, you will need to apply for a license.

Each year Montana issues a limited number of non-resident elk licenses through a lottery system. To have your name added to the lottery, you will need to submit an application to Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks, by March 1 of each year.

2022 Elk Hunting In Montana Rates for Non-Residents

Montana residents can buy their Elk licenses over the counter at a reduced fee of $10-$20. For non-residents, you can check the 2022 elk-hunting rates below.

Please note, that all combination license prices include the required Base Hunting License, Conservation License, Aquatic Invasive Species Prevention Pass, and Application Fees.

• Licenses & Permits Fee
  • Big Game Combination License (Elk & Deer) – $1,145.50
  • Elk Combination License – $971.50
  • Youth Big Game Combination License – $584
  • Youth Elk Combination License – $497
  • Special Elk Permit Application – $9
  • Bow and Arrow License – (mandatory for all archery hunts) $10
  • Preference Point Fee for Combination License (optional) – $100
  • Outfitter Preference Point Fee for Combination License (optional but must hunt with an outfitter) – $100
  • Bonus Point Fee per Species (optional) – $20

Explaining the Draw System for Elk Hunting in Montana

The draw system for elk hunting in Montana is considered to be one of the more complex across all the states, draw allocation, point system, application choices, combination licenses, limited entry draw, application fees, party applications, and points only period all need to be taken into consideration.

To better understand the system, we recommend checking out the video below by magazine and hunter networking site Huntin’ Fool before applying through Montana Fish and Wildlife Parks.

Where is the Best Place to Hunt Elk in Montana?

Most of Montana’s elk populations reside in the western and southwestern parts of the state. Hunters acquiring permits for units in these parts of the state tend to be more successful, simply due to the number of elk available.

The west and southwest parts of the state are also the most popular for permit applications, so your chances of getting a permit in these areas are lower.

If you don’t mind doing a little work and want to hunt where there are plenty of elk but not so many hunters, consider applying for permits in units on the eastern half of the state.

Are There Places in Montana Where Hunting is Not Allowed?

There are a number of places in Montana where you are not allowed to hunt for any game animals, including elk.

In general, these areas are the state’s two national parks (Glacier and Yellowstone), and all the tribal reservations in the state. If your permit borders one of these areas, make sure you are well aware of the boundaries.

How Many Elk Can Be Taken with a General License and Permit?

The general elk license for both residents and non-residents will allow you to harvest one elk per year.

However, you may be able to harvest one additional animal if you can acquire a Montana “B” hunting license. This license allows you to harvest one elk without antlers on particular management units within the state.

These units change from year to year. If you want to try to get a “B” license, you will need to know where you are allowed to hunt.

Beware of Predators!

Montana is home to some of the largest and most dangerous predator animals in the United States. Each year elk hunters cross paths with grizzly bears, black bears, wolves, and mountain lions.

These animals are less interested in you than they are in the carcass of the elk you’ve killed.

Grizzlies cause the most problems in Montana, with hunters and guides being attacked, harassed, mauled, or killed by grizzly bears each year.

You should know how to be safe and avoid encounters with grizzly bears and other predatory wildlife if you are planning an elk hunting trip to Montana.

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Turkey hunting can get a bit dreary as the season runs on. Like most wild game seasons, the shimmer of opening day has faded, gobbles have become less frequent, and the needle on your motivation gauge probably sits on E. But there is a bright side to the latter weeks of turkey season. Most hunters have either tagged out, turned their attention to fishing, or sworn off the sport completely. In theory, this means less competition. Unfortunately, most of the “easy” turkeys are gone, and the wary, old gobblers or skittish two-year-olds seem reluctant to gobble at best.

Still, the late season can be a great time to bag a longbeard. The past two years, I’ve been fortunate enough to take a gobbler the last week of each season. Gobbles were seldom, and the tactics required a bit of creativity, but they were some of the most rewarding hunts I’ve had to date. Here are a few tips to bag a last-minute tom.

Cover Ground

Though not always the case, you’ll need to put some distance between you and the parking lot to strike a gobbler. A lot of hunters won’t hike several miles at the beginning of the season, much less after a long month of hunting. If you haven’t already, e-scout potential roost sites that are at least a half-mile from any roads or access points. Treat this scouting the same way you would if you were planning an out-of-state turkey hunt. Look for open, old-growth timber stands with ridgelines, multiple terrain features, or ones that border private ag fields. Then, get ready to run-n-gun.

Pull a Turkey Hunting All-Dayer

Most turkey hunters call it quits when the gobbling slows down, but mid-morning to afternoon can be a sweet time to strike a lonely tom. If your first spot doesn’t work out, pull up stakes and head to another property or public ground. You’ll likely find parking lots at your nearest national forest vacated well before noon. Of course, you’ll want to check local regulations if your season has a midday cutoff.

Call Less Frequently

You can’t read any turkey literature without the mandatory plea to call less. While I do believe there’s a time and place to go toe-to-toe with a fired-up gobbler, the late season isn’t it.

Assuming your opening season lines up with peak breeding, most gobblers aren’t as eager as they were opening morning. Couple that with weeks of hunting pressure, and you’ll quickly find that most longbeards gobble less. No matter how many times you cutt, cackle, or yelp, he’s probably going to be reluctant to respond — at least audibly. If he does decide to commit to your calls, it’ll be silent. If you strike a bird and he goes quiet, keep the calling and moving to a minimum. He’s probably headed your way.

Subtle calling can be the way to a late-season gobbler’s heart. He’s heard every call in the book by this point. Soft clucks, purrs, and strategically timed scratches can put him at ease.

Get Close to the Roost

Of all the late-season birds I’ve killed, getting tight to the roost played a huge role in the success. This is an aggressive tactic, especially if you’re making a move after he gobbles, but a tom is more likely to come check you out if he doesn’t have to cross a country mile to get there. Terrain, foliage, and daylight dictate how close you can get, but if you can sneak within 100 yards of his roost tree, you’re giving yourself a greater chance.

Subtle, infrequent calling definitely applies here. Even if he doesn’t respond to your soft clucks or tree yelps, he hears you. You don’t have to make him cut you off, as fun and tempting as that seems. This is also a great time to mimic a fly-down if you can get away with the movement.

Setup on Ambush Sites

Sometimes, no matter how much subtle or excited calling you do, a gobbler just isn’t interested. If you’re still holding onto a tag the last week of turkey season, your best efforts might be to locate strut zones or travel routes and sit over them. Though not as exciting as watching a tom strut and gobble into shotgun range, it can be predictably effective. Strut zones could be a certain field edge, ridge top, or creek bottom that turkeys frequent. These can be tough to locate at this point in the season, but glassing field edges or a quick scouting trip can help you locate them.

For travel routes, dip into your deer scouting techniques. Think about pinch points in the big woods or trails that lead from timber into fields. You can also check for tracks crossing dirt roads and backtrack the likely route into the timber. Once you pin down a travel route or strut zone, sit back and get comfortable. Turkey hunting is often just a waiting game.

Final Thoughts on Late-Season Turkey Hunting

Late-season gobblers (probably) won’t throw all caution to the wind and come running to your setup, but that doesn’t mean they’re invincible. Creativity and patience go a long way at this point in the season. Include those two into your tactics, and you’ll have a decent shot at filling your tag in the eleventh hour.

Levi Morgan won his first professional archery tournament in 2007, when he also went on to win the Archery Shooters Association Shooter of the Year and World Champion titles that year. Since then, he has won the Shooter of the Year title 11 years in a row. Levi is the host of Bow Life, airing on Sportsman Channel.

The following topics are from the column, “Changing the Game” in Petersen’s Bowhunting.

by Levi Morgan

In the following article, I will address:

• How to Overcome Target Panic: The Aiming Drill
• Achieving Perfect Bow Balance
• How to Grip a Bow
• Shooting a Bow: Pushing and Pulling
• Anchoring a Bow: Three Steps to Success
• Write It Down
• Serving a Bow String
• How to Stand When Shooting a Bow
• Paper Tuning a Bow
• Preparing Your Mind for Success: Mastering the Mental Game of Archery

How to Overcome Target Panic: The Aiming Drill

If you’ve shot a bow long enough, you’ve probably heard about – or experienced for yourself – the demon we call “target panic.” The main form of target panic is best described as the inability to hold your pin on the target and squeeze the release slowly enough to cause surprise when it fires. Essentially, you punch the release prematurely. While there are many forms of target panic and just as many ways to cure it, there are a few things you can do to prevent or beat this horrible condition. Surprisingly, the one solution I’m most fond of doesn’t even require you to fire an arrow.

The main form of target panic derives from what I call “anxious aiming.” This occurs when the pin settles in where you want it to and you feel like you have to fire that release immediately. The problem with firing a release on command (the way 90 percent of people trigger their release) is that from the time your mind tells you to fire that shot to the act of your finger actually doing it is enough time to move off the spot. Generally, this is the main cause of inconsistent groups. You may say you don’t have target panic, but if you can’t aim in the middle and slowly fire that shot, then I’ve got some bad news: you have target panic. Luckily there is a cure for this.

You are probably wondering how I can suggest solving this problem without even shooting an arrow, but the fact is, the problem lies between your ears, not in the act of shooting. What you need to do is commit two weeks to the cure; every day or every chance you get, go out in the yard with an arrow nocked, just like you would normally practice. You will simply draw the bow and address the target, aiming with your finger on the trigger – but don’t pull that release; you want to focus only on aiming. Keep that pin where you want to the arrow to hit until your aiming starts to break down. Then let down and reset, never firing the arrow. Treat this just as you would any practice session, except never actually shoot your bow.

This will do two things that benefit you greatly as an archer. First, it will teach your mind that it is OK for that pin to settle on the bulls-eye without firing that arrow. Second, it will increase the length of time during which you can effectively aim before your shot breaks down. Over time, you will be able to add shooting back into your routine, but if you ever feel those anxious or rushed feelings, take a few days and just commit to this simple drill.

Target panic is a horrible thing, and if you don’t know how to cure it, it can really mess with your confidence, taking the fun out of shooting your bow. Even if you aren’t struggling with target panic, this aiming drill can and will make you a better archer, regardless of whether you are a novice or a top-level competitor.

Achieving Perfect Bow Balance

Maybe you are new to archery and trying to learn everything you can. Maybe, however, you have been a successful archer for years and are simply reading this because you are addicted and can’t get enough. Either way, we all want to be better shots, and if you say you don’t, I’d say you’re not a passionate archer/hunter.

There are many things that make up a great archer, but no one thing is more important than having a perfectly balanced bow. The overall goal of finding perfect balance is to be able to draw the bow with your eyes closed, settle in and open your eyes to a perfectly level bubble. This takes away human influence or torque that is necessary to level your bow otherwise. Proper balance will better your aim in all areas. Better aiming then leads to improvements in every aspect of your shot and can even cure most forms of target panic.

To achieve perfect balance, you will need a front stabilizer bar (I’d recommend at least 10 inches), a V-bar bracket that will allow you to adjust side to side and up and down, and a rear stabilizer bar that’s at least 8 inches. In addition, you will want a few weights to play around with.

First, you will need to put the stabilizers on and level the bow from side to side. I would recommend trying 4-5 ounces of weight on the front bar and 10-15 ounces on the back bar. You can fine-tune the weights from here, but this is a good ratio to start with.

Next, draw the bow with your eyes closed, anchor with a relaxed grip and open your eyes. If the bubble on your sight is not level, then adjust the rear stabilizer accordingly until you can repeat this process and your bow is perfectly level from side to side.

Leveling your bow front to back is a little different because you will adjust by adding or removing weights rather than adjusting the bars from side to side. To level your bow front to back, come to full draw aiming at a horizontal line. If your pin wants to dip or bounce below the line then add weight to the back bar or take the weight off the front. If your pin bounces above the line, do the opposite. After this step is complete, your bow should be very close to balanced. While you probably won’t be aiming perfectly still, your aiming pattern should be centered on that horizontal line, not bobbing up or down.

Obviously, we all want to be the best archer we can be. Balancing your bow properly will help you tremendously. Some people say balancing your bow makes it too heavy, but I’d rather carry a few more ounces and hit where I aim.

How to Grip a Bow

The grip is the only part of your bow you actually touch during the shot process, meaning the way you handle it is critical. Despite that, I believe grip remains one of the most overlooked aspects of good shooting form.

Over the years, I’ve seen many variations of how people grip their bows, and guess what? None of them are necessarily wrong. Just like any other aspect of archery, the proper grip is simply one that can be repeated consistently shot after shot. However, there are several things that can make that task much easier. One is to keep the entire grip on the thumb side of your lifeline. Then you want to point your thumb at about 2 o’clock (10 o’clock for left-handed shooters), making sure it isn’t riding up against the shelf of the riser. Lastly, you want to have a loose hand, not squeezing the grip and not with your fingers stuck straight out; just let your hand relax.

There are two main muscles in your hand, one on each side of your lifeline. If your grip crosses over onto both, then it’s a lot easier for you to torque the bow just by tensing your hand slightly. It’s very important to keep the bow on the thumb side of that lifeline only, making it almost impossible to torque with the muscles in your palm.

The best way to do this is to make a thumbs up sign, turn your thumb to 2 o’clock (or 10 o’clock for lefties), open your hand and place it on the grip. This will help prevent your thumb from pressing too hard against the shelf, which can create sideways torque and cause inconsistencies in your balance while aiming.

Now, your bow isn’t going anywhere. So, stop holding onto it for dear life at full draw. Just relax your bow hand. Now, squeeze the grip again and see what it does to the bow and level. That’s called torque, and it’s bad. You want a completely relaxed hand. Just allow your fingers to lie softly on the back of the grip. Don’t stick your fingers way out trying to avoid torque, because when you do that you can’t help but tense up those muscles, which defeats the entire purpose. It’s OK if your fingers are touching the riser, as long as they aren’t influencing it.

Again, there is no right or wrong way to grip the bow if you can do it the same every time, and the method I just described will help you achieve consistency. Keep the grip on one side of the lifeline in your hand, keep your thumb from pressing too hard up into the shelf and relax your entire hand. A consistent grip is absolutely crucial to accurate shooting.

Shooting a Bow: Pushing and Pulling

We all realize that to shoot a bow, some form of pushing and pulling has to take place – but probably not as much as you’ve been told. My entire life, I was preached to on how I needed to push my bow arm at the target and pull on my release arm firing the shot using my back muscles. I quickly realized that doing that the same way each time was next to impossible. Archery, as I’ve always said, is a game of repetition, and trying to rip the bow in half just wasn’t something I could repeat. One day I’d do great, the next I’d be pulling harder and hit to the right or pushing shots out to the left. The inconsistency was really frustrating.

Now, many of my struggles were from the equipment I was using combined with this push/pull method. But mainly, it was

because this entire method is flawed, in my opinion. Back when this “back tension” method was introduced, bows had hardly any let-off and spongy back walls. Pushing and pulling really hard probably was the most consistent way to shoot that setup. These days, however, bows are built with solid back walls and high let-off, and when you start pushing and pulling on something that doesn’t give, it just doesn’t work. Think about it; you’re shooting a bow with a solid wall, and when you pull, something has to give. In this case, that would be your bow arm. And when you push and the bow can’t give, then the movement is transferred to your release arm. I truly believe this is the reason so many people struggle with this technique. It’s not that they’re doing it wrong. It’s that the entire process is no longer necessary.

I understand that to keep the bow at full draw, some form of “back tension,” or pushing and pulling, has to take place. I also believe that’s about all you need, just enough to keep the bow at full draw. You have to look at your cam system, holding weight, bow weight and type of draw stop to come up with a consistent push/pull method that suits you. However, if you’re shooting a bow made in the last decade, more pushing and pulling probably isn’t the answer to making you a better shot.

If you are struggling with aiming or consistent groups and you have been taught to push and pull on the bow, let’s try a different approach. Try to relax a little more in your shot. Pull just hard enough to keep the string against the stop and let the bow do the rest. After a while, you should find a really comfortable, less stressful way to fire the shot. This will be way more repeatable for you, and you will be engaging fewer muscles than before. Yes, the fewer muscles during the shot the better. When you’re nervous, that’s what causes tension and shaking, and that’s what gets us tired. So, the fewer muscles used the better. The days of ripping the bow apart are over. It’s time to relax and let these bows shoot themselves.

Anchoring a Bow: Three Steps to Success

If you know archery, you know how important a consistent anchor is. Most people just think of anchor as a being only one thing. But the truth is, having a repeatable anchor position involves three major components. Everyone’s anchor involves – or at least should involve – the following: release-to-hand contact, hand-to-face contact, and string-to-face contact. If you have these three components down, you will have a solid anchor position.

Release-to-hand contact is very crucial in all parts of your shot, but none more so than your anchor. If you are shooting a handheld release, that importance doubles. You can literally change your draw length and entire form just by positioning the release differently in your hand from one shot to the next. It is critically important to find a comfortable spot in your hand where the release just seems to fit. It’s not a bad idea to even mark that on your hand with a marker or tape while you practice. Make a conscious effort each shot to place that release in your hand exactly the same. Soon, that will be the only place you can comfortably place the release, and any slight change will be noticed immediately. At this point, the marking and/or tape is no longer needed.

A consistent hand-to-face contact point can be a little trickier. I’ve seen guys and girls mash their hands into their faces, and I’ve seen them completely avoid any contact with their face at all (both are disasters). You want to find a comfortable pressure point somewhere along your jawbone. I like to slide my jawbone between my first knuckle and middle knuckle. I don’t mash my hand to my face. I just very lightly touch my hand to that spot on my jaw so I can execute my release properly. I’ve found that the more pressure I put on my face, the harder it is to execute the shot. On the other hand, no contact or a floating anchor even worse, in my opinion. How can you ever know when you are anchored if you can’t feel any contact with your hand?

The final piece of the anchor is the contact between your face and the string. While you need this contact, you absolutely can’t press on the string with your face, as this will cause nightmares with shooting consistency. The absolute best and most repeatable string-to-face contact point I’ve found is to very lightly touch the string to the tip of your nose. If you use your cheek or the side of your nose, it’s hard to put the string in the exact same spot every time. The tip of your nose is always in the same place.

Just like every other aspect of archery, there is no right or wrong anchor – if you can repeat it from shot to shot. Having the correct draw length is very crucial in comfortably anchoring with the method I’ve just described. Assuming your equipment fits you perfectly, this three-part anchor method is, in my opinion, the best way to go about fine-tuning your archery game. Always remember your release-to-hand, hand-to-face, and string-to-face contact points. Stay consistent with all three and your anchor position will never fail.

Write It Down

Everyone has had that one setup that was money – that one bow they always shot better than any other. The problem is once you replace the strings, cables or limbs, it’s never the same. You can go to the same model, poundage and draw length, but it still doesn’t feel right. If only you had taken notes on everything. There are some key things you always should write down once you have that dream setup you are in love with. First, write down all the measurements on the bow. Then take notes on how your arrows are built. Lastly, take notes on other things in your shot more along the lines of feel and execution.

When we have the best set up of our lives, we need to realize that bows change with use, and before it’s too late, we need to write down everything about the setup. Some of these things are draw length measured from the throat of the grip, d-loop length, peep height from the loop, nock height from axles, draw weight, holding weight, axle to axle, brace height and let-off. Then, move on to things like stabilizer lengths and weights, sight choice, fiber size, lens magnification, peep aperture size, rest location from burger hole and, if you shoot a blade rest, what size launcher. Nothing is too small or unimportant to write down about this setup.

Next up are your arrows. Nothing is more critical to a forgiving and accurate setup than your arrows. You need to log all of this info as well. How long are your arrows carbon to carbon? What model arrow are you shooting, including spine? Vane selection and the helical or offset on those vanes are very important. Write down what nock, what grain point and then overall arrow weight. Arrows come in so many sizes and spines these days that if you can’t remember what arrow you had, all the other info isn’t nearly as important.

Lastly, you need to log every part of how you are executing your shot. Are you relaxed at full draw or are you pulling hard on the wall? What is your bow arm positioning? Straight arm or slightly bent? Same goes for release arm and even how you hold your release. Write down how you are anchoring in and what release you’re shooting. Bow grip is another crucial piece, but it’s very hard to write down specific details about

Trout Fishing With Rapala Minnows by Bryce Stupples

My first introduction to the mighty Rapala was through a family friend who has featured in a number of my stories – Chalky (aka Bruce White). He uses nothing but Rapalas and seems to catch more than his fair share of large trout.

Rapalas always seemed a bit ”poncey” and the price was always a bit out of my league, ”imagine if you lost one at $20.00 each,” I often thought!

Over the years I heard more and more references to Rapalas being used to catch large fish, though more often than not these monsters were caught while trolling, and as I don’t get many opportunities to fish this way, they still held little appeal.

One day a colleague at work was pouring over a fishing gear catalogue. As we talked he pointed out how cheaply you could import these items, especially Rapalas, given that our dollar was a lot stronger at the time. Getting over that immediate cost factor had just been achieved and I found myself putting in an order for a variety of types and colours.

After about six weeks the package arrived and I was now armed with a number of 7 cm Rapalas. My selection included floating, sinking and articulated. The colours were rainbow, perch (black and gold) and silver.

My initial excursions saw me catch no more fish than normal. In fact, I would often revert back to the tried and tested Toby or Tassie Devil in order to catch a fish. However, I persisted and explored different ways of using these lures. I soon discovered their worth, and now use them as my number one weapon against trout. Hopefully the following experiences, observations and tips will provide other anglers with some new ideas when next fishing these fantastic “fish catching” lures.

1. Rapala Knot Always use the special Rapala Knot. This knot forms a loop that assists the lure’s distinctive action by allowing it some slack to shimmer like a stricken baitfish when retrieved. An alternative is to use a snap-swivel which does affect the action slightly but in my experience makes changing patterns and types a lot quicker and easier as I tend to change over lures a lot depending on the water conditions.

2. Wear Shorts! When fishing with Rapalas I always wear shorts and boots. The reason being that although I set myself up relatively cheaply they are still pricey to replace. I have stripped down and gone for a few swims to rescue ‘a snagged Rapala. In saying this, however, even though these have twin trebles they don’t seem to get snagged as often as other lure types. My theory is that the plastic lip combined with the nose-down shimmering action glides the lure over most stones and through the weed – submerged trees are a different story!

3. Lure Size Lure size doesn’t seem to matter too much. I have regularly witnessed small trout being taken on very big Rapalas. I prefer to use a size seven as it doesn’t look too big and it provides me with enough weight to be able to cast effectively. Anything smaller and unless you have a tailwind you will be wasting your time trying to cast with it.

4. Casting These lures are difficult to cast. But life is made a good deal easier if you fish with light gear such as a small graphite rod and reel spooled with line no heavier than an 8lb test. Some recommend you use split shot about 30cm up the trace to help with casting and sinking the lure. With practice, I found this unnecessary as it changed the action of the lure and increased the number of snags I was getting.

Hurunui River Monster Trout on Scarborough Reel, 6lb line and Rapala Lure.

5. Colours & Models Rapalas come in a wide variety of colours and styles. Everyone I know who fishes with Rapalas seems to catch fish with each individual having a different preference for a colour and style. For what it is worth the rainbow pattern is universal but I prefer the “black and gold” or ”perch” patterns for fishing southern waters.

For trolling I prefer the articulated models, but for rivers and lakeshore casting I use either a floating or Countdown, once again depending on the type of water I am fishing in. The Countdown is designed to sink at approximately one foot per second then hold a fixed depth while being retrieved.

The floating Rapala will float until retrieved, or it encounters resistance from the current. Recently I purchased some of the new Blue Fox range. These are cross between a Rapala and a Veltec (made by the same people at Rapala) and although I have yet to catch a fish on one, they impressed me with their action and castability.

6. Casting Upstream One of my preferred methods to fish a Rapala is to cast a Countdown upstream in a smaller river or stream in a similar fashion to the way one would cast a dry fly up current. With this method, I try to cast in such a way that the fish turns away from me to take the lure. In other words, make the fish turn towards the opposite bank to which you are standing on.

In the waters of the Oreti River where I predominately fish with Rapalas the fish spook very easily and if they see you will rarely take.

When fishing blind I start at the bottom of a hole or run, and looking directly upstream, cast at 10 o’clock to the far bank or far side of the main current. My next cast goes to 11 o’clock midstream, or mid current, then finally on cast directly upstream to fish the near side.

I then take a couple of steps upstream before repeating the process until I have covered all likely water. It is by this method – with a bit of practice – that I have had the most success and caught all of my big trout over recent years.

The important thing to remember is to wind fast enough with the current to maintain the swimming action of the lure.

The other point to bear in mind is that fish more often than not have taken the lure coming downstream, and therefore even with big fish, the takes are very subtle. So be ready or otherwise you will miss the strike!

7. Floating Downstream Using a floating Rapala and floating it downstream to retrieve up through the middle of a pool or over-hanging grass or willows is another tactic I often employ. This involved my starting at the head of the pool, or above the rapid feed the hole – often standing mid current – and allowing the current to take outline as the Rapala floats on the surface taking the natural course of the river.

When the Rapala is at the bottom of the pool or past the fishy zone you engage the reel and start slowly retrieving. This method fishes the lure right up to the side of the area where fish will be feeding and gives the fish plenty of opportunity to get a good look at the lure. This method allows you to fish a lot of water that you would not be able to access without spooking the fish or tangling with obstructions such as overhanging trees. Indeed how many times have you seen trout cruising underneath willows or lying hard up against the bank where the grass overhangs and wished you could cast to them? Give it a go.

Rapala Fat Rap Shallow Running Bibbed Minnow designed for fishing in shallow water.

8. Across and Down Across and down is the traditional way for spin fishermen to attack the water. I rarely fish with Rapalas in this way, but where a river is wide or is carrying a large volume of water there is often no other way to cover the water. In such water, the likelihood of spooking fish is less so it is, therefore, the tactic to employ.

9. Lake Margins Fishing lake margins and over weed beds gives you the opportunity to utilize the different characteristics of the different Rapala lures. The Countdown is good as it allows you to fish the bottom, or fish through the water at different depths by utilizing the predetermined sinking rate.

One word of caution is to remember that as the water gets shallower the lure will start to hit the bottom so be wary of those submerged snags!

The floating Rapalas are useful to cast over weed beds as they will only go under the water a metre or so. If you feel them catching on the weed stop winding and they will float back to the surface. A jerky retrieve is often useful in these situations as this will keep your lure ”fishing” at all times.

10. Trolling The few times I have trolled with Rapalas I have used the articulated models for no other reason than they look fantastic in the water. Their appearance perfectly replicates the swimming action of a small fish very well.

Friends of mine swear by the rattling models fished on a downrigger but they all report that the Rapala is one of the best lures to use when trolling for trout.

In general the wider and longer the plastic bib on the front of the Rapala the deeper it dives when trolling. This makes it possible, generally speaking, to choose a lure to dive down to the depth that fish are appearing at on your sounder.

Keep in mind that Rapala lures trolled a good distance behind a boat will usually dive and swim at over twice the water depth attainable from the same lure by casting and retrieving. Also when trolling on lakes most fish are caught trolling in: the shallower water near the lake’s margins, close to river mouths, along drop-offs, and cover, rather than out in the middle in the deepest water.

Rapala Shad Rap Deep Runner is an excellent lake trolling trout lure.

11. Releasing Fish A characteristic of Rapalas is that fish take them very well. With the treble hooks, they tend to stay hooked. This often poses problems for me when I look to release a big trout and it is bleeding or the middle treble has hooked the trout in the eye. Therefore when you have caught enough for the table, remove one of the treble hooks or change them over to singles to give yourself the best possible chance of returning fish safely.

So from early scepticism about the Rapala lure, I am now a confirmed believer in their ability to catch fish. Be prepared to experiment with them and the results may surprise you. Of the last ten trout, I have caught on a Rapala I can honestly say that they have averages 6 pounds.

Rapalas do of course have their uses in sea fishing. I have also seen anglers catch salmon on them in the Rakaia and Rangitata Rivers.

Once you get the feel for fishing with Rapalas you will want more than one.

Indeed, wildlife in Alaska is larger and more plentiful. But the size of the Moose is out of this world.

Actually, It’s a medieval creature. Most people on earth are unfamiliar with Moose, yet they are an everyday occurrence for some.

More than 500 traffic accidents involving Moose occur annually in northern New England.

The physical damages endured by car passengers are significantly more catastrophic and likely to end in fatalities due to the animal’s height and weight.

When a car slams into a moose, the animal’s long legs are crushed, causing the animal’s body to smash against the windshield and roof.

This significant problem has been noted in Canada and Scandinavia, affecting humans and animals.

You may wonder how high and huge an average moose is, which makes it so deadly in traffic accidents.

But if you are mindful of its height and bulk, you will almost certainly avoid a face-to-face encounter when driving north or camping in the woods.

These wild animals evolve and develop throughout their lives. The body mass does not accumulate until males are nine years old and females are four years old.

Let us read along and dive straight into the moose size comparison!

Introducing Moose and its subspecies

The term moose is prevalent in North America and was inspired by the Algonquian word “moosh,” which means “stripper and eater of bark” in the Innu language of Quebec, Canada.

These species of deer are the largest among deer species. There are 8 subspecies of moose, with Alces alces gigas, American moose being the biggest.

The classification includes European moose and Siberian, East Siberian, and West Siberian moose. Other species of these wild animals are often classified as North American or Canadian moose.

The male and female moose are referred to as bull and cow moose, respectively. The moose cows are comparatively smaller than bulls.

The moose prefer aquatic vegetation and wetlands for their food source and dwelling.

These excellent swimmers were almost extinct in Sweden back in the 19th century. But after expanding throughout Europe, North America, and Canada in the 20th century, they restored their population.

Size And Appearance of Moose

As per the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Moose is the largest representative of the deer family. They are also North America’s tallest mammals.

Their height varies from 5 to 6.5 feet from hoof to shoulder. Males measure 794 to 1,323 pounds, while females weigh 595 to 882 pounds.

However, there is more divergence in the spectra than these binary numbers; a healthy Moose may range from 300 pounds to 1800 pounds!

Moose have tiny tails, a hump on their shoulders, and huge ears that can twist, allowing them to hear in stereophonic mode.

Their hair is typically dark or black, offering valuable insulation against the cold. Male Moose, known as bulls, have enormous antlers.

These can reach a width of 6 feet (1.8 m) from tip to tip. Antlers are solely used to fight for a mate and are shed each winter following the mating season.

Moose Size Comparison

Although all Moose are huge, there are geographical variances in size. Varying species sizes are determined by their habitat and genetic compositions.

Moose is, believe it or not, a pretty enormous deer, and North America has four species of these giants.

Moose species size comparison

The moose species can have variable size differences based on their genetic structure interline.

1. Alaskan Moose

This giant Moose is the biggest of the four moose subspecies and inhabit Alaska. Male Alaskan Moose may grow 6 feet 9 inches tall at the shoulder.

To put that in context, most NBA basketball players could effortlessly glide beneath a standing moose.

Alaska-Yukon Moose may weigh up to 1400 pounds. Their antlers are also a little under 6 feet wide.

2. Northwestern Moose

These moose are spotted around the North of the United States, such as North Dakota and central Canada. They reach a height of 6 feet 4 inches and weigh up to 1590 pounds.

3. Shiras Moose

The residential moose of the United States from Utah to Idaho can also be spotted in British Columbia. They are the tiniest moose subspecies.

Shiras stand 36-55 inches tall from hoof to shoulder. They may also weigh up to 1200 lbs.

4. Eastern Moose

Eastern Canada and the northeastern United States are home to Maine’s own Eastern Moose.

It is the third most populous moose subspecies, after Alaskan and Western Moose. These moose can be spotted in Seney National Wildlife Park and Tahquamenon Falls State park in the upper peninsula region.

They may reach a height of 6 feet 6 inches at the shoulder. Their weight may exceed 1400 lbs.

Moose Size Comparison to a Human

Adult bulls are substantially taller than even the world’s tallest humans!

A moose may stand up to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulder, while an adult male human stands at 5 foot 7.5 inches on average.

At the shoulder, the Alaskan Moose stands more than 7 feet higher. When the head and antlers are added, the overall height exceeds 10 feet. Even the tallest person cannot face a Moose with their head lifted.

Moose Size Comparison to a Horse

Let us contrast a Moose with a horse!

A Moose’s typical shoulder height ranges from 5 to 6.5 feet, while a horse’s average shoulder height is from 2.5 to 5.8 feet.

A full-grown Moose may weigh up to 1,800 pounds, whereas a horse can weigh between 120 and 2,200 pounds.

A Moose is thus larger than a horse in terms of size. In terms of mass, a horse is heavier than a moose.

Moose Size Comparison to a Truck

When matched to a Nissan Titan, the Moose’s and vehicle’s heights are now roughly equal.

Because most Titans are roughly 6.5 feet tall, the top of the truck would likely be slightly higher than the Moose’s shoulders.

If the Moose is huge, it should be taller than a truck!

Moose vs. Elk: Confusion solved!

The most classic mistake shooters make in Colorado is mixing Moose with elk. Moose have a lot darker fur than elk and lack the lighter abdomen of elk.

A moose’s snout is also considerably bigger and more spherical or round than an elk’s sharp nose.

The antlers of Moose and elk develop in quite distinct ways. A moose’s antlers expand to the side of its head, but an elk’s antlers grow rearward over its body.

Elk antlers have a primary shaft with long points sprouting off it, but moose antlers develop in a shovel-like form with many spikes sprouting off the thick, shovel-shaped part.

Finally, moose develop a fluttering strip of skin beneath their necks known as a dewlap or bell. This characteristic is specific to Moose and not found in elk.

Fun Facts about Moose

• Moose can move each ear and eye independently.
• During the rut, bull moose emits various noises, including a loud bellow, croaks, and barking when collecting their young female moose utter protracted quavering groans that conclude in cough-like moo and a grunt.
• Moose stomachs can hold up to 100 pounds of food.
• Every wintertime, moose lose their paddles and develop new ones the following spring. Antler development is determined by testosterone levels and the duration of the day. Antlers can also be used to determine age.
• “Harem herd” is the term given for a herd of female moose chosen by dominant male moose during mating season in Alaska. The remaining males will compete with the herd’s alpha for the privilege of mating with the females.
• The hollow structure of moose hair aids in protecting the animal from the cold.
• The front legs of a moose are longer than the rear legs. This makes it easier for the Moose to jump over obstacles along its route.
• The famous Canadian city Moose Jaw is often believed to be named after moose, but that is not the case. The city is named after the Cree language, which means A warm place by the river.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, Moose are gigantic, and yes, they do kill humans on occasion. Overall, moose are enigmatic animals that balance and beautify the world’s ecology.

So do you want to go to the Northern part of the world to witness this marvelous creation?

If you want to know about animals’ expertise in standing sleep or the giant Chordata that can sore in the sky, go through the respective hyperlink.

(Last Updated on August 28, 2022 by Sadrish Dabadi)

Walleye fishing is a popular and enjoyable activity for anglers across the world. One of the most effective techniques for catching walleye is using jigs.

Walleye jigs are specially designed lures that mimic the natural movements of prey fish, which walleye typically feed on. They are available in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and each has its unique features that make it effective in certain fishing conditions.

Whether you are a seasoned angler or a beginner, understanding the different types of jigs, how to choose the right one, and how to use them can significantly increase your chances of a successful catch.

In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about walleye jigs, including the different types, factors to consider when choosing them, tips for using them, and the best ones to use in different water conditions.

Types of Walleye Jigs

Walleye jigs come in various shapes, sizes, and styles, and each has its unique characteristics that make it effective in certain fishing conditions. Here are some of the most popular types of walleye jigs:

Roundhead Walleye Jigs

Roundhead jigs are the most common type of walleye jig. They have a round head and a single hook and are available in various sizes and weights. They are versatile and can be used in a wide range of fishing conditions.

Standup Walleye Jigs

Standup jigs have a flat-bottomed head and a vertical line tie that causes them to stand upright on the bottom. They are effective in rocky areas and can also be used in weeds.

Weedless Walleye Jigs

Weedless jigs are designed to be fished in weedy areas without getting caught up in the vegetation. They have a hook that is recessed in the jig’s body, making it difficult for weeds to snag it.

Swimbait Walleye Jigs

Swimbait jigs are similar to roundhead jigs but have a longer shank and a wider gap hook. They are used with soft plastic swimbaits and are effective when fishing in deeper water.

Bucktail Walleye Jigs

Bucktail jigs are made with a hair or feather skirt and are effective in clear water. They mimic the movements of baitfish and are best used with a slow retrieve.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Walleye Jig

Choosing the right walleye jig is essential for a successful fishing trip. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a walleye jig:

1. Water Depth The depth of the water you’re fishing in is an important consideration when choosing a jig. Roundhead jigs are effective in shallow water, while standup jigs work best in deeper water. Swimbait jigs and blade baits are ideal for fishing in depths of 20 feet or more.
2. Water Clarity The clarity of the water also plays a crucial role in jig selection. In clear water, use jigs with natural colors and avoid using ones with bright colors that might spook the fish. In murky water, use jigs with bright colors that stand out and attract the fish.
3. Time of Day and Season The time of day and season can also affect the effectiveness of the jig. During early mornings and late afternoons, use jigs with brighter colors to increase visibility. In the winter, when the water is colder, use smaller jigs with slower retrieves.
4. Structure of the Lake The structure of the lake, such as rocks, weeds, and drop-offs, can influence jig selection. Use weedless jigs when fishing in weedy areas to avoid getting snagged, and use standup jigs when fishing in rocky areas to prevent snagging.

Consider these factors when selecting a walleye jig, and you’ll be well on your way to hooking into some big ones.

Tips for Using Walleye Jigs

Using walleye jigs can be a highly effective way to catch fish, but it’s important to use them correctly. Here are some tips for using walleye jigs:

1. Cast and Retrieve Technique One of the most common ways to use a jig is with the cast and retrieve technique. Cast the jig out and let it sink to the bottom, then retrieve it with short, quick jerks to make the jig bounce off the bottom. Vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you find what works best.
2. Jigging Technique Jigging is a popular technique for catching walleye with jigs. Let the jig sink to the bottom and then use a sharp upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom, then let it sink back down. Repeat this motion, varying the speed and intensity of the jigging until you get a bite.
3. Drift Technique Drifting is an excellent technique for covering a large area of water quickly. Simply drift with the wind or current, casting the jig out periodically and allowing it to sink to the bottom.
4. Vertical Jigging Technique Vertical jigging is an effective technique for fishing in deep water. Position your boat over the desired spot and drop the jig straight down, letting it fall to the bottom. Then, use an upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom and repeat the motion until you get a bite.

By using these techniques, you’ll be able to catch walleye with jigs more effectively. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques until you find what works best for you.

Best Walleye Jigs to Use

Selecting the right jig can make all the difference in your walleye fishing success. Here are some recommendations for the best walleye jigs to use:

1. Northland Fishing Tackle Fire-Ball Jig: The Fire-Ball Jig is a versatile and effective jig that is designed to imitate the movements of baitfish. It has a short-shank hook that allows you to thread on a live minnow or soft plastic bait. It’s available in various colors and sizes and is ideal for fishing in shallow to mid-depth water.
2. Rapala Jigging Rap: The Jigging Rap is a popular jigging lure that features a balanced design and a center treble hook. It mimics the movement of a dying baitfish and is effective in both shallow and deep water. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
3. VMC Neon Moon Eye Jig: The Neon Moon Eye Jig is a versatile jig that features a unique 3D holographic eye and a super sharp hook. It’s available in various sizes and colors and is ideal for fishing in clear water.
4. B-Fish-N Tackle H2O Precision Jigs: The H2O Precision Jig is a high-quality jig that features a custom-designed head and a super sharp hook. It’s ideal for fishing in weeds and can be used with live bait or soft plastics. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
5. Keitech Tungsten Super Round Jig Head: The Super Round Jig Head is a weedless jig that features a tungsten head and a screw-lock bait keeper. It’s available in various sizes and is ideal for fishing in weedy areas.

These are just a few of the best walleye jigs to use. When selecting a jig, consider the water conditions and factors outlined in section III, and choose a jig that best fits your needs. Remember to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you.

Conclusion

Fishing for walleye with jigs can be a thriling and rewarding experience, but it takes knowledge and skill to be successful. By understanding the different types of walleye jigs, the factors to consider when choosing them, and the tips for using them effectively, you’ll significantly increase your chances of catching more fish.

Remember to select a jig that best fits your needs based on the water conditions and factors outlined in this article. Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you. With the right knowledge, skills, and equipment, you’ll be well on your way to reeling in the big ones and enjoying epic fishing adventures.

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.

Tooth of the Arrow broadheads have been around for while, but I was intrigued and finally got my hands one so I could test it.

Now, Tooth of the Arrow is certainly a cool name for a broadhead, but the company also has a great perk. They are so confident that you’ll like their broadheads, that they advertise that you can get a free sample.

Now that’s guaranteed satisfaction!

You can jump straight to the testing of the Tooth Of The Arrow heads by clicking the links below:

• Tooth Of The Arrow Vented
• Tooth Of The Arrow Solids

Tooth Of The Arrow Broadheads | An Overview

The Tooth of the Arrow broadhead is a 4-blade head that is similar to a Slick Trick head.

Each of the blades are exactly the same cutting diameter, so it’s a true 4-blade head. It’s a little bit bigger than a Slick Trick Magnum. But, rather than being 1 and 1/8-inch cutting diameter like the Slick Trick Magnum, this is 1 and 3/16 cutting diameter. So, it makes a little bit wider hole.

For the testing, I shot 450-grain Bishop mammoth arrows, using my Bowtech SR6 which is a 27 inches and 72 pounds.

What makes this head unique is that this is machined out of a single chunk of high-carbon steel. So, there are no blades to be replaced. It’s just one solid chunk.

So, as a negative, you can’t just replace the blades and put in new sharp ones. As a positive way, it’s a pretty stout, strong design. And, with it being such high-carbon steel, it’s not too difficult to sharpen. So, it’s intriguing to see this.

I’ve spun these heads and they spin very true. They also fly well for me. I’ve not tested them at super long ranges but they do – well, I think through a well-tuned bow, they should fly well at longer ranges.

I’d heard really good things about the smaller, standard head.

But, I’ll start off by testing the XL, which intrigued me the most because I just like to make a big hole if I can! I was excited to see how it performed.

So let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow XL did. (Further down I’ll do a head-to-head battle between the XL and the original, so check that out as well!

Vented Penetration Testing

I shot it into my broadhead box where I’ve got four layers of MDF and they’re half inch each, and two of those layers have a rubber foam layer in front to simulate hide and a little bit of soft tissue there in the beginning and the end.

Angled Shot Penetration

Next, I shot it at a 1/2-inch MDF board at a 45-degrree angle to see how it would do through that.

Durability Testing

I shot the Tooth Of The Arrow head into a 22-gauge steel plate to see how it would fare.

Cinder Block Test

The cinder block is the final test that I do with the fixed-blade heads.

I don’t do this test or the steel plate test typically with the mechanical heads, but when you’re using a fixed head, you’re typically doing so because you really want to have some structural integrity and blade strength that’s above and beyond what a mechanical can do.

So, I just like to test the limits. Not many heads hold together after hitting the cinder block. A lot of them take chunks out, but then just kind of bend or fall apart. Very few heads hold together. There have only been a few that have made it. Let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow did.

I would say this head is amongst the top few in terms of structural integrity that I’ve tested. It’s right up there with theQAD Exodus and the Muzzy Trocar and the Trophy Taker A-TAC.

I think the only ones that may have done better are the Bishop Archery and also the Iron Will.

Man, for the price, the Tooth Of The Arrow XL is one impressive head. I have to say, I’m pleasantly surprised. I give it an A+ in all categories.

Comparing the Tooth of the Arrow Original to the XL [Broadhead Battle!]

I wanted to compare the Tooth of the Arrow Original vs the XL version.

Now, I’ve done this in some other instances, like with the Magnus, where I tested the Stinger compared Black Hornet. And in this case, I tested the two models of Tooth of the Arrow broadheads.

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The Tooth of the Arrow broadheads are 100% made in the USA.

I tested these heads for long distance flight (I was able to pop a balloon at 80 yards) and I’m going to test them for edge sharpness and retention, for penetration, and for durability.

Let’s see which one prevails!

These heads have a unique feature about them, in that they keep a lot of the weight within the diameter of the arrow shaft.

Out of the box sharpness comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow broadheads for out-of-the-box sharpness. The purpose is to see if they can still cut paper after a stroke of a carbon arrow shaft. Because both the Original and the XL have the same blades, I only tested one of the heads.

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Penetration comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow Original and the XL for penetration. My medium was ballistic gel that was fronted with a rubber mad and 1/2″ MDF board.

Durability comparison

I shot both heads into a 22-gauge steel plate 5 times to test the durability. Check out the holes these heads made in the steel plate!

The holes themselves are really what sets the Tooth of the Arrow apart. OK. Here you can see the holes from the XL. OK. They are just bit squares. They are not just like four crosses or two crosses, four little slits. They are true squares!

In the steel plate test, there are very heads that are able to punch a chunk out like that. The Exodus does it in a triangular shape. And, as you can see here, the Tooth of the Arrow does it extremely well in a 4-blade shape. So that’s going to be a really difficult hole to close up in an animal.

You can only see on one of the XL blades a little bit of cosmetic marking. I don’t even know if you can pick that up in the picture below. It’s very hard to see.

These heads have extremely impressive durability. Some of the very best that I’ve tested.

Now, I have heard some reports of people shooting them and hitting them into a big heavy bone and one of the blades bending or shearing off. That can happen with any broadhead.

There are all kinds of crazy things that can happen in the field as you hit heavy bone at different angles. But through the steel plate as you can see in the picture below, they faired extremely well.

Cinder Block Test

Let’s look at these heads and see how they did after being shot into the cinder block.

Final Thoughts On The Tooth Of The Arrow Vented Broadheads

So, what do you think of this broadhead battle, the Original versus the XL?

Each of them has their distinct strengths. In terms of overall flight, the Original flies incredibly well. It’s one of the very best flying and forgiving broadheads I’ve ever tested.

In terms of penetration, the Original penetrated much more deeply. But, in terms of hole size, man, the XL really ruled in that department, though both of them really made a nice square hole in the mediums that I shot them through.

And the winner is…

In terms of which one is the winner, really, it’s a toss-up. I have to call it a tie. I hate to do that. But, this really is a draw. It just depends on your personal setup and what you’re hunting.

If you’re going after a really big animal where penetration is the most important thing then man, the Original is the way to go. If you have a lighter setup and you’re concerned about your penetration, then the Original is the way to go.

If you are going after a really long range shot like a pronghorn or something like that that you’re going beyond 60 yards, then the Original is the way to go.

But, if you are going for a shot under 60 yards and you really want to make a nice big hole and you have the kinetic energy to drive it through, (and honestly, it really doesn’t take that much kinetic energy to drive it through), then man, the XL is the way to go. For whitetail and hog shots under 50, 60 yards, I would definitely choose this one.

What I think is the best combination is to have a few of both in your quiver. If a shot is going to be longer, then you pull out the original. If the shot is going to be shorter, use the XL. And that way, you’re ready for any situation, and honestly, any animal as well.

There are several things to consider when choosing a broadhead. These heads have it all. They are fantastic broadheads.

Great job, Tooth of the Arrow!

Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadheads Review

Originally, Tooth of the Arrow only made the 100-grain and 125-grain in a vented version.

But they also have a solid, non-vented version in 100-grain and 125-grain.

Interesting Ferrule Design On the Solid Version

So let’s zoom on in here and let’s check out this new Tooth of the Arrows Solids.

What’s interesting in this solid model is that most of the specifications are exactly the same as the vented model.

The overall length is the same, 0.77 inch, making them to my knowledge the shortest single piece for blade steel broadhead that there is, which is just going to aid in flight.

The blades are also the same thickness as the vented model. They are 0.040 inch thick. The blade angle is the same at 45-degree blade angle to maximize the penetration.

And so, the same short profile, the same cut size of 1 inch, and 2 inches of total cut.

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Why A Solid?

So, why come out with a non-vented blade, a solid blade?

Well, many people prefer solid blades over vented blades because they do have some advantages.

One of the advantages is less noise in flight than with vented brodadheads. You have air passing through that hole and it can make whistling or a wheezing sound as it rotates and flies at really high speeds.

So, the solid heads will definitely be quieter.

In addition, a solid can be more durable because there’s not that venting that creates a thin area in the blade that could be more prone to bending or breaking than a solid one. So, that’s the primary reason for doing it.

But, I wondered how it would affect flight and penetration?

In some ways, you might think, “Well, it’s going to fly better, because with these grooves, it’s going to be more aerodynamic in flight.” But, the opposite side of that is, “well, there’s more exposed surface blade than there was in the original, because so much of that blade was covered by the ferrule.”

So, I was curious to see what the flight would be like.

And, same with the penetration. On the one hand, I can say, “well, with this groove, it might penetrate better.”

But, on the other side of that, I go, “well, I’ve noticed that there’s a really thick ferrule. It often opens up a hole for the shaft to just glide through really easily, and those broadheads penetrate more effectively than the ones with a smaller ferrule.”

So, I was really curious to see how all of these things compare.

I tested the 100-grain solid, the 125-grain solid, and for a comparative sake, I compared it to the 125-grain vented.

Initial Sharpess Test Of The Solid

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Penetration Test 1 Of The Solid:

Edge Retention Test: (sharpness after Penetration Test 1) Of Solid

Penetration Test 2 Of Solid: (layered cardboard)

Durability Test Of Solid: (22 gauge steel plate, max 2 shots)

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Durability Test of Solid: (Concrete Block)

Final Thoughts On Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadhead

The solid is going to be a little bit quieter in flight than the vented version and I think the blades are going to be a little bit more durable, because they have that extra support.

However, I think maybe the vented models are going to penetrate just a little bit better and you saw that in the testing. And, I think they might be a little bit more forgiving in really long range flight.

But again, that may be all within the margin of error.

There may not be differences at all in those areas because I think all of them, both the vented, the non-vented are really durable. They fly really well and they penetrate really well.