World’s Largest Yellowfin Tuna John Petruescu’s 445-pound giant well eclipses previous mark

SAN DIEGO, CA – EXCEL Captain/Co-owner, Justin Fleck (Pelagic Pro Team) backed his 124’ long range vessel into its slip at Fisherman’s Landing at 4:00am, Sunday, December 9th, 2012. On board, the crew prepared to unload an incredible catch of big Yellowfin Tuna taken at Hurricane Bank, Mexico. The trip’s twenty-two anglers gathered their gear and belongings and began sorting their fish. Amongst the catch was what many anticipated to be the largest Yellowfin Tuna ever caught (to date).

Below: Angler John Petruescu stands alone with the giant, and now holds the record of largest Yellowfin Tuna ever caught.

At the landing, located in San Diego Harbor, a large group of news reporters, film crews, photographers, and excited on-lookers anxiously awaited first glimpse of the historic fish. Anticipation mounted as 7:00am approached – the advertised time at which the behemoth was to be weighed.

At proper light the signal was given, and a rented skyhook fired up to hoist the giant to get an official weight. The large crowd fell silent as they pressed in to view the certified scale. As the digits settled, the crowd erupted in hoots and hollering as the scale rested at a staggering 445.0-pounds.

Angler John Petruescu – a rookie long-ranger – now holds the honor of landing the largest Yellowfin Tuna ever caught.

Below: Proof in numbers – the landing’s certified scale rested at 445.0-pounds // Star of the show – John Petruescu had many-a-picture to take for the media on hand.

John used a 5-pound skipjack tuna as bait to fool the beast. His rig – a 12/0 Mustad 7691 hook, 130-pound Momoi monofilament, and 130-pound Line One spectra backing, on a Shimano Tiagra LRS 50W reel and a Seeker Black Steel 6460XH rod.

Said John when asked about the fight, “He almost spooled me three times and I had to increase or decrease the (reel’s) drag often.”

John continued, “As the fight got close to its end, all I could see was the fish’ head, so I just kept reeling. Capt. Justin said, ‘OK John, you can free spool now, we got him.’ It took four gaffs to bring it in through the gate.”

Below: John and his brother, David (left), were both on the same trip together // _EXCEL _Captain, Justin Fleck (right), and John Petruescu are all smiles after official weigh-in of the biggest yellowfin tuna ever landed.

John’s fish has also eclipsed the recent 427.5-pound Yellowfin, caught by Guy Yocom off Cabo San Lucas (pending IGFA world-record), and the current all-tackle record of 405.2-pounds caught by Mike Livingston aboard Vagabond in 2010.

“I couldn’t even watch the scales,” said an elated Justin Fleck, master of EXCEL . “In my head I knew it was big, but I still couldn’t look.”

Below: The Crew of EXCEL _took a minute to pose with the incredible catch, Pelagic banner in tote. Pelagic is proud to be the Official Apparel Provider of _EXCEL . Photo courtesy of Jason Fleck, Head Chef, _EXCEL _Sportfishing.

Although John’s fish won’t qualify as a new world-record (a crewmember had to briefly grab the rod to help John get the fish around the anchor line), this catch will certainly go down on record as the world’s biggest Yellowfin Tuna caught to date – 445-pounds.

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Photos and story by Colin Sarfeh, PelagicGear.com

Video footage from the official weigh-in of John Petruescu’s 445-pound Yellowfin Tuna at Fisherman’s Landing, December 9th, 2012.

If you want to catch a giant, book a trip with _EXCEL _by visiting www.ExcelSportfishing.com

Identifying seed pods is a great way to recognize different species of trees. One of the benefits of using seed pods for tree identification is that you usually find seed enclosures on the ground. This can make it easier to identify a tree species than using the leaf shape. Tree seed pods can be winged, ball-shaped, coniferous cones, papery enclosures, or long slender pods like bean pods.

Of course, it’s not always possible to use a tree seed pod identification guide to identify trees. Seed pods may only fall to the ground after flowering. And the seed pods on some species of trees persist on the tree throughout winter. However, looking at the shape, size, and color of the seed pod can often help identify the tree.

The term “seed pod” typically refers to the seed-bearing structure of plants in the legume family (Fabaceae). These pods are usually long and slender, containing several round pea-like seeds in a row. However, tree seed pods can also refer to any type of casing that contains seeds from a tree or large shrub.

This article is an identification guide for tree seed pods. In it, you’ll discover how to identify seed pods from trees like maples, elms, ash, silver birch, beech, chestnut, and several types of conifers. Descriptions and pictures of seed pods and other identifying features of trees will help you distinguish species of trees in the landscape.

Tree Seed Pod Identification

The two primary ways to identify seed pods are by looking at their shape and size. However, tree seed pod identification is also possible by the feel of the pod — is it smooth, fuzzy, or spiky? Additionally, some types of seed pods fall relatively early in the season, whereas others stay on the tree throughout winter.

Tree seed pod identification — shape: First, look at the seed pod’s shape. Most trees in the legume family have long, slender, curved pods, like those you’d find on pea and bean plants.

However, many deciduous trees, like ash, maple, and elm, have flattened, papery seed casings called samaras. However, most coniferous trees have seed-containing cones. But chestnut, hickory, and beech trees have rounded pods, sometimes with spiky exteriors.

Tree seed pod identification — size: The seed pod’s size is another identifying feature to help recognize the tree species. There is great variation in the length of some tree seed pods in the legume family. For example, flat redbud tree seed pods measure 3” (7.5 cm) long. However, mimosa tree pods grow 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long, and locust tree seed pods measure 6” to 18” (15 – 45 cm).

The seed pods of trees are called fruits, although we never think of papery winged seeds or long curled pods as fruits. Additionally, sometimes tree seeds are also referred to as nuts.

Types of Tree Seed Pods (With Pictures) – Identification Guide

All trees produce seeds to reproduce. However, many tree seeds develop in pods or other protective structures. For example, some seed pods are like leathery balls, whereas others are woody cones. Then there are papery winged seeds that fall to the ground, spinning like a helicopter’s blades. How can you identify the many types of tree seed pods? Please read on to find out.

Maple Tree Seed Pods

Maple tree seed pods look like a pair of wing-shaped papery structures joined in the middle. Each winged section is called a samara. These seed pods are also named helicopter seeds because when they drop from the tree, they have a characteristic spinning motion. This feature gives the seeds names like whirlers, helicopters, or whirligigs.

Maple tree seed pods grow 1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long. Seeds from maples are the only samara with true helicopter-like action.

The wing-like structure helps the seeds to disperse in the wind, far away from the tree. Other identification features of maple trees include their leaves with usually three or five pointed lobes, reddish-brown bark or gray-brown bark. Many species of maple trees (Acer spp.) grow up to 150 ft. (45 m) tall.

Elm Tree Seed Pods

Elm trees produce seed pods encased in flat, papery, oval pods. Each elm tree seed pod contains a single seed, and the light green disc-like pods grow in large clusters on the tree. The papery seeds typically disperse from the tree in spring after flowering. Elm tree seed pods measure 0.5” (1.22 cm) across.

Apart from the round seed casing, elm trees can be identified by their deep green, oval, pointed leaves with serrated margins. In addition, elm trees have dark grayish-brown bark that is heavily furrowed and scaly. They also have small clusters of red or green flowers. Elm trees (Ulmus spp.) grow up to 100 ft. (30 m) tall.

Ash Tree Seed Pods

Ash tree seed pods are large oval paddle-shaped papery pods growing in large clusters. The brown winged seeds look like a bunch of dried leaves hanging from branches. Also called keys, the samaras persist on the tree until late fall or early winter. The oar-shaped seed pods measure 2” (5 cm) long.

Another distinguishing feature of ash trees (Fraxinus spp.) is their pinnately compound leaves. Each leaf comprises five pairs of pointed leaflets with a terminal leaflet at the end of the petiole. The leaves measure 8” to 12” (20 – 30 cm) in length. Ash trees typically grow 60 to 80 ft. (18 – 24 m) tall.

Learn more about white ash trees and the identifying features of green ash trees.

Beech Tree Seed Pods

Beech tree seed pods are identified as brown, spiny burs that have a hard shell and are called cupules. Each brown seed pod contains two to four seeds. An unusual feature of beech nuts is their angular shape with three sides. Beech tree seeds measure 0.5” to 1” (1.12 – 2.5 cm) long, and the spiky burs are slightly larger.

Beech trees are deciduous trees belonging to the genus Fagus. Apart from the brown spiky seed pods, identification features of beech trees include large, glossy green leaves forming a rounded, spreading crown. Additionally, beech trees have smooth, light-gray bark. Beech trees grow 60 to 80 ft. (18 – 24 m) tall.

Silver Birch Tree Seed Pods

Silver birch seed pods are tiny, winged seeds that grow in clusters resembling long flower spikes called catkins. Each minuscule seed has a translucent papery casing that opens like two wings. The seeds develop in catkins on the female trees. A single silver birch tree can produce thousands of seeds every year.

Pictures of silver birch seeds look like small flies with a body (seed), two antennae-like protrusions, and a pair of wings. The seeds only measure 0.11” to 0.15” (3 – 4 mm) across. Other identifying features of the silver birch (Betula pendula) are its silvery white bark and triangular leaves with jagged edges growing on weeping branches.

Horse Chestnut Tree Seed Pods

Horse chestnut seed pods are spiky green balls formed by a soft, thick husk. The spongy casing opens to reveal a mahogany brown seed with a recognizable grayish patch. Typically, each horse chestnut seed pod has one or two fruits (seeds). The rounded pods measure 1” to 2” (2.5 – 5 cm) in diameter.

Horse chestnut trees (Aesculus hippocastanum) grow 50 to 70 ft. (15 – 21 m) tall. The large deciduous trees have large conical, upward point clusters of pinkish white flowers, large palmately compound leaves, slightly fissured grayish bark, and a distinctive pyramidal shape.

Buckeye trees, that are related to the horse chestnut trees, also produce seed pods similar to horse chestnut trees. But, unlike chestnut trees (Castanea spp.), horse chestnut seeds and buckeye seeds are toxic and inedible.

Chestnut Tree Seed Pods

Chestnut tree seed pods are large, fuzzy, ball-like pods containing several large edible seeds or fruits. The spiky pods (called cupules) have sharp spines, and each pod contains several brown-colored seeds. An identifying feature of sweet, edible chestnut seeds is that they have a flat side and a small tuft.

Chestnut trees are identified by their lance-shaped, coarsely-toothed linear leaves measuring 6” to 10” (15 – 25 cm). Additionally, chestnut flowers are long, finger-like flower clusters in a creamy-white color. These dangling catkins measure 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long. The fast-growing trees reach impressive heights of 60 to 100 ft. (18 – 30 m).

Redbud Tree Seed Pods

Redbud tree seed pods are large, flattened bean-like pods dangling in large clusters. The narrow, pointed seed pods are green before turning dark maroon or purple and then brown as they dry on the tree. Each pod measures 3” (7.5 cm) long and contains many small pea-like seeds.

Western and eastern redbud trees (Cercis spp.) are deciduous trees growing 25 ft. (7.6 m) tall. Their bright magenta buds appear in spring before opening into showy, fragrant, vibrant pink or reddish-pink flowers. Redbud leaves are heart-shaped, and the green foliage turns yellow in the fall.

Sycamore Tree Seed Pods

Sycamore tree seed pods are spiky round balls that emerge green and turn brown. The small seed balls dangling on long petioles persist through winter before dropping to the ground in spring. Each jaggy seed pod contains many fluffy winged seeds that easily disperse when the sycamore seed pods break open.

The spiky seed balls measure 1” (2.5 cm) in diameter.

Sycamore trees (Platanus spp.) grow 100 to 130 ft. (30 – 40 m) tall. Apart from the brownish spiked seed pods, other identifying features are their maple-like leaves with deep, pointed lobes, smooth, thin colorful flaky bark that looks like camouflage, and insignificant greenish flowers.

Pine Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Pine tree seed pods are conical structures consisting of woody scales. Pine cones are typically tan or brown and can be egg-shaped or have a slender and conical appearance. Each woody scale encloses a tiny seed that disperses when the cones open. Depending on the species, pine tree cones can range in size from 0.78” to 23” (2 – 60 cm).

Pine cone seed pods can help distinguish pine trees from fir trees. This is because the brown, woody cone-shaped seed pods typically grow downward rather than upward. Other identifying features of pine trees (Pinus spp.) are their evergreen needle-like leaves growing in bunches of two to five and arranged spirally on branches.

Spruce Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Spruce tree seed pods consist of thin, flexible scales attached to a central stalk creating a conical cone. The slender, cone-like seed pods can emerge green, red, or purple before maturing to brown. Although compared to pine cones, they look similar, spruce cones are not as hard or ridged.

The cone-shaped spruce tree seed pods grow between 1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm) depending on the species of conifer (Picea spp.). You can also identify spruce trees by their short, four-sided needles that are individually attached to branches. Unlike fir tree needles, you can roll spruce needles between your fingers.

Fir Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Fir tree seed pods are cylindrical cones that grow upward on woody branches. Compared to other evergreen conifers, fir tree seed cones are the most colorful. Some are deep purple, pale blue, or reddish-brown color. Fir tree cones can grow up to 10” (25 cm) and look like candles on a tree.

Other identifying features of fir trees (Abies) are their soft, feathery flat needles and smooth bark.

Mimosa Tree Seed Pods

Mimosa tree seed pods are identified as papery bean-like pods that emerge green and turn brown. Each flattened seed pod contains five to ten round seeds. The flat pods grow profusely on trees, dangling from bare branches in the fall. The tree seed pods measure 4” to 8” (1.2 – 2.4 cm) long and 1” (2.5 cm) wide.

Mimosa trees (Albizia Julibrissin) are also identified by their smooth, light gray bark, fern-like pinnately compound leaves, and pink puffball flowers.

Palo Verde Tree Seed Pods

Palo verde tree seed pods are easily identifiable because they look like green, red, or brown beaded chains hanging from branches. The leathery seed pods contain edible oval seeds which are black or brown. The unusual leguminous (bean-like) seed pods measure 2” to 3” (5 – 7.5 cm) long.

Palo verde trees (Parkinsonia spp.) have bright yellow flowers and thorny branches, covered in pinnate leaves with pairs of tiny leaflets growing in pairs oppositely on thorny stems measuring 6” to 9” (15 – 23 cm) long.

Royal Poinciana Tree Seed Pods

Royal poinciana tree seed pods are huge leguminous seed pods growing between 12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm) long. The dark brown, flattened seed-containing pods look like leather straps hanging from trees. These large seed pods emerge in the fall and persist on the tree through winter until spring.

Other identifying features of royal poinciana trees (Delonix regia) are their bi-pinnate feathery leaves, vibrantly colored red flowers, and large, spreading rounded crown.

Locust Tree Seed Pods

Locust tree seed pods are large, flattened, dark brown pods that are distinctively spirally twisted. Each of these contorted or hooked seed pods contains several large oval seeds. Locust seed pods grow 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long and dangle from thorny branches from fall until the following spring.

Locust trees (Robinia spp.) grow 66 to 100 ft. (20 – 30 m) tall. They are identified by their large pinnate leaves, thorn-covered trunks, and dangling clusters of white flowers.

Kentucky Coffee Tree Seed Pods

Kentucky coffee tree seed pods are flattened, thick, leathery pods that measure 5” to 10” (12 – 25 cm) long and up to 2” (5 cm) wide. The large seed pods contain dark-brown or olive-green round seeds, with three to nine seeds per pod. Although the seeds are toxic, you can roast them and brew a coffee-like drink.

Other identifying features of Kentucky coffee trees (Gymnocladus dioicus) are their rough, scaly bark, large, pinnately compound leaves, and small white, star-shaped flowers.

Catalpa Tree Seed Pods

Catalpa tree seed pods are easily recognizable pods due to their slender, cylindrical shape and long length — measuring between 12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm). These long cigar-like seed pods grow in dangling clusters that are green and mature to dark brown. Winged seeds disperse when the pods split open.

Other names for catalpa trees (Catalpa spp.) are the bean tree, Indian cigar tree, and smoking bean tree. The catalpa tree also has showy white flowers, smooth gray bark, and heart-shaped green leaves.

Jacaranda Tree Seed Pods

Jacaranda tree seed pods are round, brown, woody pods with numerous winged seeds. The brownish seed pods grow in clusters on trees and have a twisted appearance. The pods measure 3” (7.5 cm) across and are noticeable on jacaranda trees in late summer. Resembling a small scallop, the pods open to disperse their seeds.

Jacaranda trees (Jacaranda mimosifolia) are famous for their stunning floral displays of blue or bluish-purple trumpet-shaped flowers, attractive bi-pinnate compound leaves, and grayish-brown scaly bark.

Acacia Tree Seed Pods

Acacia tree seed pods are known for their long, slender seed-bearing pods that look like rosary beads or necklaces. However, some acacia species have flattened, broad seed pods that are banana-shaped. The distinctive furry seed pods are typically dark brown and grow up to 10” (26 cm) long. Each legume pod contains several pea-like seeds.

Acacia trees (Acacia spp.) are easy to identify due to their spectacular white or yellow puffball fuzzy flowers, fern-like leaves, and thorny branches.

Related articles:

• Trees With Long Seed Pods – Identification Guide
• Trees With Spiky Seeds Balls (With Pictures)
• Types of Hickory Nuts – Identification Guide

By Discount Tackle Staff

There is nothing better than being out on the water with your friends and family enjoying nature, laughing, talking, and fishing. And the experience can only be improved when you have everything you need for a fun day fishing; having all the right fishing baits and tackle is essential to making the most of your time on the water.

A fishing hook is perhaps one of the most crucial fishing tackle items after your fishing rod and reel. This means a good selection of fishing hook types and hook sizes can be essential to making your fishing trip memorable and productive.

In this blog post, we break down the four major categories of fishing hooks and explain the different sub-types that make up each category, the rigging techniques and baits they are most often used with, and the species they are used to target. Finally, we provide a short explanation of hook sizing and hook strength naming conventions.

Type & Uses of Fishing Hooks

Artificial & Soft Plastic Bait Hooks

As their name indicates, artificial and soft plastic hooks are used for artificial and soft plastic bait rigs using soft plastic jerkbaits, worms, swimbaits, creature baits and more. Some of the most popular styles include worm hooks, extra wide gap (EWG) hooks, flipping hooks, drop shot hooks, and weighted and unweighted swimbait hooks.

Gamakatsu Black EWG Offset Worm Hook

In conjunction with weights and sinkers, worm hooks and EWG hooks can be used for Texas and Carolina rigging soft plastics. Drop shot hooks’ primary use is pretty self-explanatory: drop shot baits, but these hooks are often used for wacky and Neko rigging soft plastic worms and stickbaits, as well. That said, some tackle makers even make dedicated wacky and Neko hooks too. Swimbait hooks can be used with soft jerkbaits and paddle tail swimbaits.

Use of Artificial & Soft Plastic Bait Hooks

These hooks are ideal for freshwater fishing for species like largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, spotted bass, crappie/panfish, trout, pike, muskie, and walleye, as well as small inshore saltwater fishing species like redfish, sea trout, flounder, drum, and striped bass. Because of their rigging versatility, you can use them in rocks, weeds, and even timber.

Bait Hooks

Bait hooks are used for rigging live or cut bait such as live baitfish, strip baits, live nightcrawlers, fish eggs, and chunks of shrimp, crab, and other crustaceans. Popular styles of bait hooks include baitholder hooks, octopus hooks, J-hooks, circle hooks, and aberdeen hooks.

Eagle Claw 186AH Ringed Eye Baitholder Hook

Baitholder hooks have little barbs (sometimes called slices) along the shank of the hook that help keep chunks of cut bait on the hook. Octopus hooks get their name from their shape, which resembles an octopus tentacle. These hooks are used for a wide variety of fish species in both saltwater and freshwater and are often rigged with a live baitfish or egg clusters. J-hooks are somewhat similar to octopus hooks, except their shape more closely resembles the letter “J” (hence their name). These hooks are typically used for bait fishing for offshore saltwater species like tuna, sailfish, wahoo, and marlin.

Berkley Fusion19 Circle Hook

Circle hooks can be used with almost any type of bait and are unique in that they don’t require the angler to “set” the hook, but rather the hook sets itself in the corner of the fish’s mouth as it tries to swim away with your bait. Circle hooks are also best for catch and release fishing because they are the least likely to mortally wound the fish when they’re hooked.

Aberdeen hooks are very light and delicate and are almost exclusively used for fishing live minnows and other live baitfish to target crappie and other panfish like bluegill, sunfish, and bream.

Use of Bait Hooks

Bait hooks can be used in different casting, trolling, and jigging set-ups for freshwater species such as trout, salmon/steelhead, catfish, panfish, perch, and walleye, as well as virtually all saltwater fishing species.

Saltwater Hooks

Saltwater hooks, as their name implies, are intended to be used for saltwater fishing. Hooks that fall into this category are typically constructed with hard metal wire that is then molded into sharp and long points. Although you will find saltwater fishing hooks in many shapes and sizes, they are usually made of one of two materials: high-carbon steel or stainless steel. Saltwater hooks must also be made with corrosion-resistant finishes like tin to survive in corrosive saltwater environments.

Gamakatsu Heavy Duty Live Bait Hook

For our purposes, we define saltwater hooks as any hook suitable for use in saltwater, meaning there is some overlap with other categories. For example, a hook like Gamakatsu’s Heavy Duty Live Bait Hook is classified as both a baithook and a saltwater hook because it used for bait fishing, but also robust enough to survive saltwater environments and big game species. Similarly, heavy-duty treble hooks like Mustad’s 3565 DuraSteel O’Shaughnessy Treble Hook 2X Strong are both treble hooks and saltwater hooks because they have a treble hook design that is suitable for saltwater usage.

VMC 7237 InLine Single Hook 1X Coastal Black

That said, there are few styles of hooks that are, broadly speaking, only used for saltwater fishing. These include jigging assist hooks used on metal saltwater jigs and inline single hooks used on saltwater trolling and casting hard lures (aka plugs).

Use of Saltwater Hooks

Saltwater hooks are suitable for use for casting, jigging, and trolling with both artificial lures and real bait for all saltwater species. Thanks to their strength, certain types are also a good choice when targeting big game freshwater species like catfish, pike, muskie, and sturgeon.

Treble Hooks

Treble hooks are hooks with three points on them. They are most often used on hard baits and lures, but can also be found on some soft body swimbaits, live bait rigs, and even fished alone with dough baits for trout, panfish, and catfish.

Mustad D3551 Dough Bait Treble Hook

In addition to varying sizes and strengths, treble hooks also come in a wide variety of hook shank sizes and bends. For example, there are short shank trebles that have a shorter shank section between the eye of the hook and where the shank diverges into its three points. This shorter shank style is best fished on hard baits that will be retrieved near grass and vegetation because the hook points are closer to the body of the bait and do not snag as easily. When properly hooked up with, the shorter shank trebles also do a better job of keeping fish pinned and make it harder for them to use the hook shank for leverage to throw the hook.

Owner ST-36 Round Bend Treble Hook Black Chrome

Another popular treble hook style are round bend treble hooks. Just like their name implies, round bend treble hooks have a hook points parallel to the hook shank, which creates a perfectly round bend in the hook. The purpose of this design is to make it easier to hook fish that swipe at the lure instead of fully committing to striking it. There are a few other subtypes of treble hook designs, such EWG treble hooks and feather-dressed treble hooks, but for simplicity’s sake we will end our discussion here.

Use of Treble Hooks

Treble hooks are used in both freshwater and saltwater fishing on casting and trolling lures, crankbaits, metal jigs/spoons, swimbaits, and a few other specialty, niche bait rigs. They generally are not good for use around heavy vegetation and weeds because they are highly prone to snagging.

Fishing Hook Sizes & Strengths

In addition to a wide range of shapes and designs, fishing hooks also come in many different sizes and wire gauge strengths. Different sizes and strengths are used for different species and bait presentations.

Fishing Hook Sizes

Fishing hook manufacturers make hooks in an incredibly wide range of sizes; everything from the tiniest treble hooks for trout and panfish all they way to massive circle hooks used for shark fishing.

The size of a fishing hook is based on both the width between the point and the shank of the hook as well as the overall length (or height) of the hook shank.

Fishing hook size naming conventions can be somewhat confusing. Generally speaking, mass produced fishing hook sizes range from 18 all the way up to 12/0 (pronounced “12-aught”), with size 18 being the smallest and 12/0 being the largest. For hook sizes between 1 and 18, the higher the number, the smaller the hook. In other words, a size 1 hook is much larger than a size 18 hook. For sizes 1/0 and above (there is no such thing as a size 0 hook), higher numbers equate to larger hooks, meaning a 12/0 is much bigger than a 1/0.

Fishing Hook Strengths

While its pretty obvious that fishing hooks are made in lots of different sizes to match different size fish, did you also know that hooks are also made from different wire gauges or thickness? Usually, they run from extremely thin wire to thicker gauge wire. For instance, fine wire, 1X strong heavy wire, 2X strong heavy wire, 3X strong heavy wire, and 4X strong heavy wire, and higher.

Stronger hooks are used for big game species like catfish, tuna, marlin, and sturgeon, while lighter fine wire hooks are used on more delicate species like crappie, trout, and perch.

Final Thoughts

Fishing hooks come in a myriad of styles, sizes, and strengths and each has characteristics, benefits, and intended uses. A fishing hook is an important part of fishing and being familiar with the various parts, sizes, and types of fishing hooks will help you in choosing the perfect hooks for your next fishing trip.

So, the next time that you are on the water pondering what fishing hook to use do not fret. Follow our breakdown, and you will easily determine at the type of fishing hook that will help you put more fish in the net!

Calling coyotes in the state of Oklahoma, a pair of dogs winded us and cut diagonally across the ravine. The duo stopped to look back at 200 yards, and I squeezed the trigger on my Savage 110 Predator. The yote disappeared into the grass and rolled down the hill.

I was happy with the accuracy and knockdown power of the Federal Premium Barnes TSX ammo. I had used it in the past, but since being discontinued in 2013, I forgot how deadly the bullet was on game.

The diminutive .223 barked again late in the evening when we ran across a sounder of hogs in the dry bed of a wetland. The tall grass provided brief glimpses of the swine, as they sauntered in and out of view like apparitions. My hunting partner and I lined up on the two largest pigs, which didn’t have a clue we were perched on a hill 230 yards away. Our elevated position allowed us to see into the grass where the pigs had been rooting. When the two mature hogs turned broadside at the same time, we squeezed the triggers. The hog I had in my scope dropped like a bag of concrete. It was dead on impact.

A hog is a stout critter and often requires serious knockdown power from a larger caliber rifle, but the .223 Rem. did just fine with the performance of the Barnes TSX. We repeated our performance the next evening when a large sounder of hogs appeared below us, wandering a creek bottom just before sunset. We knocked down three pigs and caused the rest to scramble in a matter of seconds.

Solid copper bullets are nothing new. Federal loads several varieties of copper bullets, including Trophy Copper and Power-Shok Copper. I’ve used them on everything from bears to elk and love the terminal performance the bullets provide.

The name says it all, as the TSX stands for Triple-Shock X. The TSX was introduced in 2003 and is Barnes’ most popular hunting bullet. Barnes claims, “The TSX has gained worldwide recognition as one of the deadliest, most dependable bullets you can buy. Try these all-copper bullets and realize the added benefits of improved accuracy, reduced barrel fouling and increased velocity.”

Instead of trying to describe why hunters should consider the TSX bullet, I asked Barnes engineers what makes the Triple-Shock X so popular, and its engineers said, “The Barnes TSX, TTSX and LRX bullets are all a monolithic design. They are manufactured using a solid copper slug. They are a controlled expansion projectile. This gives high weight retention due to the fact that there is not a core and jacket to separate. They have a cavity formed into the nose which allows rapid expansion upon impact when fluid enters the cavity. The ‘TSX’ grooves cut into the shank reduce bearing surface [pressure] and fouling. The grooves also increase accuracy. Proprietary design, tooling and manufacturing processes allow us to produce accurate and consistent projectiles. They are very popular among hunters because of their excellent terminal performance and accuracy. Being a controlled expansion bullet, we are able to ‘optimize’ the function window for a given cartridge and velocity range. This aids in superior terminal performance.”

From elk and moose to coyotes and hogs, the Barnes TSX works. The bullet stays intact to deliver maximum energy at any range. The consistent expansion of the bullet is what hunters will appreciate.

Federal Brings Back Fan FavoritesThe notion of using top-quality components to build superior cartridges started 42 years ago when Federal produced its Premium line of centerfire rifle ammunition. The Sierra MatchKing bullet was one of the first, grabbing the attention of hunters looking for optimal performance. No other company considered using another company’s bullets, but Barnes, Nosler, Sierra and Berger are but a few of the premium-class bullets loaded by Federal over the years to create a market demand for better performance. Does anyone remember the introduction of Trophy Bonded Bear Claw or Nosler Partition?

Over the years, there have been many variations of premium ammunition produced. Some were popular but discontinued in an attempt to bring something new to the market and keep up with demands like specialty cartridges for dangerous game, or long-range hunters. It has been over six years since Federal used the Barnes TSX bullet in its Premium line, but in 2019 it was brought back by popular demand. The offerings in the line from 2013 will be back in virtually the same form as before.

The good news is that powders and components like nickel-plated cases have seen advancements since the Barnes TSX was discontinued, so hunters will benefit from the short hiatus. The Federal Premium Barnes TSX loads will be very close to the same velocities and accuracy specifications as before, and will also be available in 6.5 Creedmoor and .224 Valkyrie, which have gained popularity in the short time Federal didn’t load the Barnes TSX.

The all-copper hollow point projectiles, known for tight groups at long range, and consistent downrange expansion are available in 17 loads from .223 Rem. to .300 Win. Mag. and have an MSRP of $33.95 to $52.95.

The senior communications manager from Federal said, “Anyone can load the Barnes TSX bullets, but it’s the premium components that set our cartridges above the rest.”

A short 42 years ago Federal made an effort to have its ammunition stand out, and continues to do so today. Look for new packaging as part of the marketing to separate Premium ammunition from others to make it emerge on the shelf and in the field.

T2019 archery tournaments are in full speed, and you might be wondering the equipment that’s being used in the highest levels of competition. Improve your overall accuracy and competitive-edge with these top compound target bows.

Mathews – TRX 38

Built off of the proven design of the longer TRX models, the 38 inch axle-to-axle TRX38 fills the void perfectly for shooters looking for a shorter, lighter, more comfortable bow for their draw length. Draw lengths range 23 inches to 30 inches and draw weight goes from 50 pounds up to 70 pounds on the TRX 38. The new 70V percent mod gives shooters a deeper valley while the 80 and standard 70 percent mods remain an option. A true-center nocking point ensures straight and level nock travel, further enhancing shot-to-shot consistency and a 7.5-inch brace height provides unmatched forgiveness. Learn more at Mathews’ website.

Xpedition – Perfexion XL

The Perfexion XL brings to bear the full scope of Xpedition’s aerospace pedigree to influence archery design and unparalleled precision manufacturing. The Perfexion XL’s features the PXT dual limb stop hybrid cam with an unprecedented 6” of draw length adjustment on one base cam, ½” modular draw adjustment and Xpedition’s signature adjustability. The Perfexion XL is fast enough for 3D in spite of its 8” plus brace height, yet still prioritizes the smooth draw that target archers require. Its rigid riser defies flex and recovers with the consistency that had previously been reserved for shoot through designs. It is engineered and assembled to make scores climb and X rings easier to hit. Learn more at Xpedition Archery’s website.

Martin – Axxon 36

The Martin Axxon 36 features the new Tri Loc system. The Tri Loc Axle Cap allowing calibrated cam system clearance and minimal friction for maximum performance and the Tri Loc Axle Cap ensures the setscrew locks into the riser. The Tri Loc Limb Pocket bolts into limbs for the perfect lock and alignment. Balanced Bow Technology provides proper grip location, parallel limbs and weight distribution providing an extremely adjustable and stable shooting platform. The Axxon 36 features Dual Sync Technology providing a smooth draw, quick arrow speeds, and easy tuning for proper arrow flight. No need to worry about cam lean and serving wear thanks to the Helix Cam with the Helix Groove. Limbs come in a 35-50 pound option, adjustable in 5-pound increments, with the Helix Short Draw. The Axxon 36 delivers speeds of 333 fps with a brace height of 6 7/8 inches and 36 ½ inch axle-to-axle length. Learn more at Martin Archery’s website.

Elite – Victory X

Elite Archery’s Victory X target bow is sculpted with Elite shootability and consistency. The Victory X is a bow that delivers 327 fps speeds and starts at 50 pound draw weight and 26 inch draw length. Weighing only 4.4 pounds, the Victory X is built on the high performing Victory platform and features perfect synchronization of the famed two-track cam system. Dual track binary cams with inset mods give the shooter a stable, noise free, draw length specific cam that will remain true to its original setting. The Victory X weighs a mere 4.4 pounds meaning that you can shoot heavy large diameter arrows in tournaments where speed is limited. Learn more at Elite Archery’s website.

Bowtech – Reckoning

The Reckoning was engineered as the first bow to feature DeadLock technology, providing reliable accuracy. This premier bow focuses on a “crossover” product role, and is at home equally as a Target/3D bow in addition to a longer length axle-to-axle hunting bow option. The Bowtech Reckoning features DeadLock Cams offering the ability to quickly and easily adjust the string path and put the energy directly behind the arrow without a bow press. DeadLock features a patented adjustment system that adjusts the cams left or right to perfect the string path and locks down for accuracy that is precise for life with the simple turn of a screw. Deadlock Pocket Locks the entire bow structure as one and eliminates unwanted, accuracy-robbing component movement shot-to-shot. Deadlock Cable Containment reduces torque and increases forgiveness on every shot, translating into consistent accuracy. Learn more at Bowtech’s website.

Hoyt – Prevail Series

The Hoyt target compound lineup is legendary for setting the standard of tournament level accuracy. The Prevail series boasts the XT2000 limb, SVX and X3 Cam & ½ Performance Systems, and more. You will also appreciate the additional rear stabilizer location, which is compatible with Hoyt’s hard-lock rear stabilizer system. The Prevail includes proven Shoot-Thru Riser Technology, 4-angle modular grip system, and adjustable 4-position cable guard technology. The modular grip system allows fine-tuning your grip pressure by changing the angle of the grip with 4 different grip modules: 0, +2, +4 and +6 degrees, with 0 being the standard angle. Top and bottom cams are fused together by a harness system, ensuring they fire at the exact same time, every time, for ultimate consistency and accuracy. Learn more at Hoyt’s website.

I often get questions from readers concerning what elk habitat looks like, where do elk like to hang out and which terrain they like during different seasons of the year. When I moved to Colorado more than a decade ago, I had to learn a new way of hunting since I was a whitetail hunter from the South. This “elk” was a different sort. They seemed to have no pattern, they did not seem to haunt the same one square mile that my southern bucks lived in, and they did not play by the “rules” I had learned as a deer hunter. Well, the elk were set in their ways, and it seemed that I was the one who had to change so I went to class and began to learn why elk did what elk did.

I recommend reading this lesson and digesting the points that Chad makes about what elk eat, where they like to live, and what they do when they get pressure from weather or hunters. Next, take out your maps of the game management units you want to hunt and read “Putting It All Together”. Find the places Chad describes on your map. After doing this, you will be able to look at maps or aerial photos of an area and narrow big elk country into a more manageable hunt area. -Jim

Understanding Elk in ColoradoBy Chad J. Bishop, PhD.

As hunters, we commonly seek out information on the animals we hunt in hopes it will explain exactly when and where to find them. We quickly learn, time and again, it’s not that simple. All too often, we find that what works one time fails miserably the next, and we can go from a state of euphoria to desperation in the course of just a few hunts. Much of this inconsistency can be attributed to variability in animal behavior, weather, and habitat conditions. Over time, however, we gradually improve our hunting skills by combining our understanding of the animals with lessons learned from our many hunting experiences. Thus, it is beneficial to understand the ecology of the animals we pursue, as long as we keep our expectations in check and appreciate that the systems we hunt can be extremely variable. My objective here is to present a basic picture of elk ecology in Colorado. My hope is to give the novice elk hunter a better idea of where to begin and to help the seasoned hunter make a little more sense out of past experiences afield.

What do elk eat?

Elk are herbivores capable of consuming diverse diets of grasses, forbs, and shrubs. The term forb refers to any broad-leaved herbaceous plant that is not a grass. Forbs are an important dietary component of elk and other wild ungulates and have high nutritional value during the growing season. Elk eat green grasses and forbs during the growing season but also commonly eat cured grasses and forbs during the winter. When elk and other ungulates eat shrubs, they typically select the tips of branches which comprise the current year’s growth and offer the most nutrients.

It may be easiest to explain elk diets by contrasting them to those of some other common herbivores.

• ​Deer, for example, are often referred to as browsers because much of their diet is comprised of shrubs.
• Cattle and sheep, on the other hand, are commonly referred to as grazers because they consume large quantities of grass.

The distinction between deer and livestock arises from physiological differences in the proportional sizes of their rumens (i.e., stomach) and in their associated digestive strategies. Elk are considered intermediate to deer and cattle/sheep, which means elk are better adapted to grass diets than deer yet are capable of consuming relatively large amounts of browse. Therefore, elk should be capable of meeting their nutritional requirements across a greater spectrum of habitat conditions than deer or livestock as long as adequate forage quantities are available.

This basic knowledge of elk diets is useful for understanding why elk occur where they do. At a broad scale, elk can successfully occupy a diversity of habitats across Colorado because they are foraging generalists and are adaptable. You can find elk just about anywhere in Colorado west of Interstate 25. At a finer scale, we expect to find more elk where there is a greater abundance of grasses, forbs and shrubs, collectively referred to as “understory” in forested habitats.

In sagebrush and mountain shrub habitats, understory typically refers to the abundance of grasses and forbs only. Using this information, you can begin to visualize more-productive and less-productive habitats based on the amount of vegetation covering the ground. For example, in conifer forests, elk seek out and feed in recently-burned areas, areas with beetle killed over-story, or small clear-cuts because these sites provide greater amounts of quality forage than the understory of a mature forest. When mature trees have been removed, grass, forb, and shrub species capitalize on the released nutrients and dominate the site until the forest regenerates. In such instances, elk utilize the mature forest primarily for cover and move into the openings to forage, typically during morning and evening. As a general rule, habitat types with greater understory will be preferred by elk.

Elk Habitat Use

Elk utilize most habitat types occurring in western Colorado at some point during the year. However, some habitat types are far more productive than others. Arguably, the most productive habitat for elk is aspen. Aspen typically has extremely productive understory and supports large numbers of elk. It is likely no coincidence that Colorado has both more aspen and more elk than any other western state or province.

Other extremely productive habitats that commonly occur in proximity to aspen are oakbrush and mountain shrub. Oakbrush habitat provides food and a good source of cover. It is not uncommon for elk to spend their days in oakbrush during hunting season because it provides great security. Oakbrush can be very difficult to hunt because it is thickly vegetated and difficult to quietly stalk through. Hunters that learn how to hunt oakbrush effectively, however, are often rewarded.Perhaps the best combination of habitat for elk is mosaics of aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub, which provide optimal forage and cover. Aspen is also commonly located in proximity to conifer habitats. Spruce-fir forests with intermingled aspen stands are another example of prime elk habitat. The spruce-fir forest provides cover and the aspen understory provides a source of quality forage. Generally speaking, large tracts of mature conifer forest are not that productive for elk because they have limited understory. Ponderosa pine forests can be an exception because they often support a relatively robust, herbaceous understory, and, therefore, can be quite productive for elk, particularly along the front range of Colorado where there is less aspen and oakbrush.As mentioned above, spruce-fir forests provide a good source of cover and are valuable when adjacent to more productive habitats. Lodgepole pine forests are typically unproductive and of utility to elk only when adjacent to other habitat or when used as escape cover from hunting pressure. As a general rule, the utility of conifer forests depends heavily on how much they are intermixed with meadows or other habitats. The exception to that rule is in October when forage in meadows and more open aspen stands has cured while forage in the conifer understory is still green and lush. Elk may not venture out in the open if the forage and security are better in coniferous forests.Alpine habitats, above treeline, offer a productive habitat for elk during summer and early fall and can be heavily utilized by elk. Alpine habitat can offer good hunting opportunities during early-fall hunting seasons, particularly if adjacent conifer habitat is not very productive. Hunting pressure and frost both make the alpine less appealing as fall advances. At the other extreme, elk can be found in pinyon-juniper and lower-elevation sagebrush habitats, particularly later in the season as elk move to lower elevations.

Elk Migratory Behavior

Most elk utilize different areas during summer and winter and spend variable amounts of time transitioning between the two areas during the spring and fall. Thus, biologists refer to three major types of ungulate use areas: summer, transition, and winter range. Summer range typically includes the highest elevation elk habitats, transition range encompasses mid-elevation habitats, and winter range encompasses the lowest elevations. As with anything, there are exceptions to the rules. Elk habitat use and migratory behavior is heavily driven by weather. In mild years, some elk will remain at high elevations late into the fall and may spend winter at higher elevations on south-facing slopes that remain largely free of snow. In years with severe fall or winter weather, nearly all elk will migrate down to low elevations to seek forage and escape deep snow.

Migratory behavior is an important concept for hunters. Generally speaking, most elk will be at higher elevations (i.e., summer range) during archery and muzzleloader seasons and usually first rifle season in Colorado. In mild years, elk will remain at high elevations throughout the second rifle season and occasionally into the third season in many areas. This explains why CPW field personnel commonly refer to elk being located in dark timber during mild hunting seasons, and therefore, difficult to find. In contrast, when significant fall snowstorms occur, many elk will move to transition and winter ranges as early as second rifle season, which typically makes them more vulnerable.

Elk Response to Disturbance

It is well-documented that elk alter their movement patterns in response to human-related disturbance. For example, a number of studies have demonstrated that elk tend to avoid roads2, 3, 4, 5 and that their survival declines as density of roads increases because of increasing vulnerability2, 6, 7, 8. During hunting season, elk will often seek out refuge on private lands or national parks where there is little or no hunting. In the White River National Forest in northwest Colorado, the opening day of archery season caused elk to move from public to private land9,10. Similarly, in the San Luis Valley in south-central Colorado, elk moved into Great Sand Dunes National Park in response to the opening of archery season11. Opening of rifle seasons are thought to cause additional shifts by elk away from public land to secure areas. Generally speaking, elk are adept at seeking out refuges to escape hunting pressure and will move many miles to do so.

The above information explains why hunters with access to private lands that are managed for limited hunting typically do well. Likewise, hunters gaining access to limited-harvest units by using preference points also fare well. However, most hunters do not have access to these optimal hunting situations during most years. For public-land hunters in over-the-counter units, efforts to get away from roads generally pay off. There tend to be fewer hunters and more elk in more remote areas. It is also helpful to obtain maps showing secondary roads, terrain features and public/private land ownership to evaluate where elk may be more likely to move in response to disturbance. If you lack the ability to hunt in remote areas, getting off the road even a short distance and still-hunting on foot can greatly increase your opportunities. It is not uncommon for animals to bed down in thick cover near roads and not be disturbed, even as hunters pass by on the road throughout the day. When hunting roaded areas, it is often helpful to identify patches of heavy cover where it appears elk might bed down to avoid being disturbed.

Putting It All Together

Many hunters know the general location they intend to hunt based on past experience, contacts, recommendations, etc. However, if you’re new to Colorado elk hunting, there are a few things worth considering:

• Colorado’s largest elk herds occur west of the Continental Divide.

• Colorado’s highest elk densities generally occur in association with aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub habitats.

• Public-land hunting opportunities span everything from remote wilderness areas to heavily-roaded forests and rangelands.

Once you’ve determined the general location you plan to hunt, the next consideration is when you plan to hunt. If you plan to hunt early in the season (e.g., late August through mid-October), a majority of elk are likely to be at higher elevations. If you plan to hunt later (e.g., late October through December), elk are likely to be mid-slope or even down on winter range just above the valley floors or plains. Many rifle hunters head to the field in late October and early November. At this time of year, maintaining flexibility with your hunting plans can be an effective strategy. Elk can be anywhere on the mountain depending on weather events, and it is best not to lock yourself in to exclusively hunting one spot. Elk are large, herd animals that leave abundant sign. If you’re not seeing evidence in your primary area, it’s advisable to seek out other areas.

After deciding when to hunt and factoring in weather, the next step is to evaluate habitat in terms of forage, security cover, and roads. As a recap, elk prefer habitats with abundant understory, which typically include aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub habitats. These habitat types are often intermixed with, or adjacent to, conifer forest. Areas with mosaics of aspen, shrub, and conifer are preferable to large, unbroken expanses of spruce-fir habitat, for example. During hunting season, in particular, elk will tend to avoid roads and place a heavier emphasis on seeking out security cover or refuge areas. It is useful to consider the spatial arrangement of public and private land parcels on the landscape you intend to hunt. If public-private parcels are intermixed, hunting public land near private land may be advantageous as animals will likely move between private and public land in that scenario. On the other hand, hunting public land adjacent to large blocks of private land with minimal hunting pressure will be less ideal. In Colorado, it is the hunter’s responsibility to know land ownership boundaries and not trespass, even where private land is not fenced or signed.

Ultimately, these various considerations should help you assess the overall landscape you intend to hunt: Is there ample forage and security cover? Are you far enough away from potential refuge areas (e.g., large blocks of private land, National Parks) such that elk will likely remain on public land even when pressured by hunters? If so, where are elk likely to go when pressured? What are the relative road densities across the landscape? Are there “holes” that you can access? When you factor in all these considerations, it should be possible to assess a large landscape and identify specific spots to hunt. In summary, areas to select are those that provide abundant forage, ample security cover, fewer roads, and do not have obvious refuges.

​References

1. Hofmann, R. R. 1989. Evolutionary steps of ecophysiological adaptation and diversification of ruminants: a comparative view of their digestive system. Oecologia 78:443-457.

2. Cole, E. K., M. D. Pope, and R. G. Anthony. 1997. Effects of road management on movement and survival of Roosevelt elk. Journal of Wildlife Management 61:1115-1126.

3. Lyon, L. 1979. Habitat effectiveness for elk as influenced by roads and cover. Journal of Forestry 77:658-660.

4. Rost, G. R., and J. A. Bailey. 1979. Distribution of mule deer and elk in relation to roads. Journal of Wildlife Management 43:634-641.

5. Rowland, M. M., M. J. Wisdom, B. K. Johnson, and J. G. Kie. 2000. Elk distribution and modeling in relation to roads. Journal of Wildlife Management 64:672-684.

6. Hayes, S. G., D. J. Leptich, and P. Zager. 2002. Proximate factors affecting male elk hunting mortality in northern Idaho. Journal of Wildlife Management 66:491-499.

7. McCorquodale, S. M., R. Wiseman, and C. Les Marcum. 2003. Survival and harvest vulnerability of elk in the Cascade Range of Washington. Journal of Wildlife Management 67:248-257.

8. Unsworth, J. W., L. Kuck, M. D. Scott, and E. O. Garton. 1993. Elk mortality in the Clearwater Drainage of northcentral Idaho. Journal of Wildlife Management 57:495-502.

9. Conner, M. M., G. C. White, and D. J. Freddy. 2001. Elk movements in response to early-season hunting in northwest Colorado. Journal of Wildlife Management 65:926-940.

10. Vieira, M. E. P., M. M. Conner, G. C. White, and D. J. Freddy. 2003. Effects of archery hunter numbers and opening dates on elk movement. Journal of Wildlife Management 67:717-728.

11. Davidson, G. A. 2007. Analyzing elk movements and distributions in Colorado using generalized linear models. Thesis, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, USA.

There are many benefits to night fishing for bass, especially during the summer months. Warm waters in evening hours make fish sluggish, so they are less skittish and more inclined to take your bait! Another great advantage to fishing at night is you usually have the water all to yourself—and after dark in high-summer is often the only time that is possible. While fishing at night may seem intimidating for those who haven’t done it before, it’s actually quite simple and easy to do. Ahead, get expert tips from angler extraordinaire Jerry Audet who shares important safety tips as well as secret tricks for the best success.

Why Go Fishing At Night?

Many fishermen are surprised to know that bass can be caught easily at night, but the truth is that bass really never stop feeding (provided water temperatures are adequate for their metabolism). They may be more or less aggressive based on a variety of factors, but they’re always looking for a meal—especially when the Sun goes down.

Bass have excellent senses that extend beyond vision, and the night actually gives them an ambush advantage, so they are more inclined to do their own fishing in the dark. In fact, even in the daylight, bass don’t rely on their sight as a primary sense. Instead, they detect vibrations and sounds to zero-in on their prey. Sight is reserved for the end of the hunt. They are great nocturnal hunters because they don’t have to see their prey to chase it down.

Safety Is Important

Safety is important—especially if you’re in a kayak or a boat. Make sure you use night fishing lights (called “running lights”), a loud horn or air can in case of an emergency, and a very bright light that you can flash at a boater who may not be paying attention. Fish in waters that you know well so you don’t get lost. (Don’t explore at night. Save that for during the day.). Also, always go out with a fishing buddy. Night fishing is really simple and easy once you get used to it. But if you’re nervous, we suggest fishing from shore first (which is far less complicated).

Any Special Gear?

No special gear is needed to fish at night, except a headlamp. Don’t use it while you’re fishing, only when you need to change a lure, tie a knot, or release a fish. Try to keep the light off the water, as it can spook fish. I like using a red headlight for this reason. Plus, it helps preserve your night vision. (White lights are blinding.)

How About Lures And Bait?

As far as lures go, many anglers think a glowing lure is important, so the bass can see it. But this simply isn’t true and may actually be a deterrent as it looks unnatural. Color matters a lot less at night, as the bass track your lures by sound and vibration.

Fish actually have an easier time seeing a dark colored lure at night, as the contrast with dark water or sky is easier for them to detect. The best nighttime colors vary based on what you are doing, how dark the night is, and how deep your lure is in the water. The higher up in the water column, the lighter your lure’s belly should be. This simulates nature.

Most fish and frogs have white bellies and bass are most likely looking up at the lure from beneath it. If you’re mid-column or down deep, use a dark green, black, or purple lure. However if you’re just starting out at night, white is a perfectly fine color. It’s easier for you to see and work with (in and out of the water), and it will catch bass the vast majority of the time (day and night).

At night, use lures that ride high in the water. Fish will slide into the shallows after dark looking for food (because they’re less afraid of being spotted by predators) and working those skinny waters means you are more likely to get a snag.

Using a lure that stays near the surface really helps prevent this. Something that throws a wake on the surface really draws the fish’s attention after dark. Some of the best night fishing lures include wake baits and slow-sink weightless soft-plastics (usually jerk-bait style), but subtle poppers, walk-the-dog lures, and shallow-running crank baits all work great. However, chances are that your favorite day-time lure will work great at night too. It’s just up to you to give it a shot!

Good luck night fishing!

Join The Discussion

Have you ever been fishing at night?

Had much success?

Share your experience with your community here in the comments below!

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8K

An Affordable Alternative to the Glock?

Palmetto State Armory’s PSA Dagger is getting a lot of attention because it is a GLOCK-style pistol chambered for the exceptionally popular 9mm cartridge. TLDR: The results were better than expected!

It’s probably safe to assume the AR-15 has claimed the title of “America’s Rifle.” As for pistols, the 1911 Government Model was – and possibly still is – the American champ. But given the undiminished popularity of the Austrian borne GLOCK, even in the USA, it can’t lag far behind. And imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, a growing list of polymer clones only narrows whatever gap exists.

Some are higher end versions sold for greater costs. But, apparently, another way to move a knockoff is to market it for less money. This is my review of such a pistol, Palmetto State Armory’s Dagger. Priced less than a GLOCK 19 but bearing a strong resemblance, the question begging for an answer is: How does the PSA Dagger perform?

The PSA Dagger Introduction

Produced by Palmetto State Armory – a firm known for AR-15s (see our article on building a low-cost AR-15 with Palmetto State Armory) – this polymer pistol was introduced during 2020. Since then, the Dagger has gone through several iterations. Supposedly, it’s been debugged along the way (a fairly common evolutionary practice). Based on a 9mm GLOCK 19 Gen-3, the Dagger bears a strong resemblance that extends to the internals but it’s not an identical clone. It will, however, fit inside a Glock 19 holster. More on that in a moment.

Another big difference is cost. The basic Dagger lists for around $300, a couple hundred bucks less than the GLOCK.

The 9mm Dagger Compact I received sported a flat dark earth finish. Its slide was protected by Cerakote that blended nicely with the polymer frame. Sold as a package, it was handed to me in a well-made color-coordinated soft-case – containing ten magazines! Surprised by the bubble-packed windfall, I checked the Palmetto State Armory website.

Low and behold, the same magazine rich package appeared for under $400. Upon viewing it initially, my first thought was “Prepper Kit.”

PSA Dagger Compact Specifications:

• Capacity is 15 +1.
• Unloaded with an empty magazine, it weighed 23 ounces on my scale.
• Fully loaded with 16 rounds (124 grain bullets) it weighed 29.8 ounces.
• The barrel measured 3.875 inches.
• Overall length was 7-inches and at its thickest point, the grip, it measured 1.25-inches.

GLOCK 19 Similarities:

• The Dagger uses the same magazines as a GLOCK 19.
• The ten packed with the Dagger were PMAGS.
• Supposedly most of its other parts will also interchange with a G-19, to include its frame, slide and barrel.
• The Dagger disassembles per the GLOCK process.

Dagger Review – GLOCK Comparison

Continuing the comparison to the GLOCK 19, I reviewed the PSA Dagger through that lens.

Dagger Disassembly

Basic disassembly – or field stripping – is relatively simple.

1. Verify the pistol is completely unloaded, to include removal of the magazine.
2. Pull the trigger (dry-fire).
3. Retract the slide around ¼”, and two opposing tabs in the frame are pulled downward.
4. The entire slide assembly can now be drawn forward off the frame for removal of the guide rod and the barrel.

Because it’s a simple process, it encourages ongoing maintenance.

Reassembly is in reverse order. It’s also simpler since fiddling with the small takedown tabs is unnecessary. Still, my first couple attempts with the Dagger resulted in some minor alignment hassles. But once I got the hang of it, the slide assembly slipped on to the frame without further difficulties.

A cautionary disassembly reminder that shouldn’t be necessary – but is. Perform the “completely unloaded” step at least twice (I’ve seen this go to hell). Also, isolate the firearm from any live ammo. Better to be safe than sorry!

More Comparisons to the GLOCK 19

Following the design of a GLOCK, the Dagger’s polymer frame houses steel rail-inserts held in place by pins. However the latter’s forward locking-block insert is longer. Sans interchangeable grip inserts, the serial-numbered polymer shell features aggressive but not-irritating textured panels, a high-cut trigger guard, and a GLOCK-type accessory rail. Also, the bottom of its mag well incorporates relief cuts, useful for the removal of recalcitrant magazines. But the slide-stop and mag catch are non-reversible.

Although it was finished in flat dark earth, the slide is stainless steel, and has fore and aft cocking serrations. Touted as a “Carry Cut” design, its front and rear edges are “smoother” for snag-free draws.

The sights are mounted per a GLOCK, opening the door to a plethora of aftermarket options. The Dagger I received had a standard slide, but an optics-ready version is offered, machined to locate a miniaturized red dot ahead of the rear sight.

The barrel, also stainless, is rifled with six conventional lands and grooves (more suitable for lead bullets). Near as I can determine, it’s rifled 1:10 – the same twist today’s bullet manufacturers use to test expanding projectiles. The muzzle sits flush with the slide, and has a cleanly cut recessed face, similar to the 11-degree crown seen on many HB rifles.

Like a GLOCK, the Dagger’s recoil spring is captive, but its guide rod is stainless steel.

The front and rear sights are steel (instead of plastic). The set on this PSA Dagger were fixed three-dots, and the rear was shaped to permit single-handed slide racks. It’s also drift-adjustable for windage.

One obvious departure was the trigger which differs from a GLOCK. Instead of a separate blade, PSA went with an articulated version similar to an S&W M&P. To me it was completely familiar. If it’s not your cup of tea, supposedly, it can be swapped out for one of many GLOCK versions. I didn’t try this.

The magazine release appeared to have an ample pad, but didn’t want to let go – at least, not without exaggerated efforts. It was a real bear for me and a couple others who tried it.

On a positive note, the Dagger’s fit and finish were better than expected. Play between the slide and frame was minimal in battery and the barrel was a tight fit. In theory, at least, it should shoot. Before hitting the range to find out, I gave it a cursory cleaning and lube to begin with a “clean” slate.

Range Results

December’s range conditions hovered in the low 30s but the day was calm and overcast, ideal for a meaningful accuracy assessment. No snow either, helpful for the recovery and inspection of fired cases. I started out by loading three magazines with five rounds each, to check for function while allowing the Dagger’s parts to “settle in.”

All shooting occurred from a “ready” position. The loads are listed in their firing orders.

9mm Speer 124-grain Lawman TMJ

Speer’s FMJ-type “Total Metal Jacket” is a cut above many so-called Q-loads. It’s performed very well for me in a number of 9mm pistols. Initial five-shot groups on 15-yard steel silhouettes were encouraging, and function was 100 %. The ejection pattern was consistent, and the recovered cases appeared normal.

The slide locked open as designed on the last shot, and each magazine popped free – once the release was fully depressed. This turned out to be an even greater challenge due to the chilly weather.

Full magazines came next BUT loading them with a full 15-rounds turned into a real battle! The last couple were nigh-impossible, and my seldom-used loading device didn’t fit. But perseverance finally triumphed and the final few rounds could be easily stripped out through a push of the thumb.

They chambered normally, too. Satisfied with the Dagger’s function, I zeroed back in on a trio of repainted 15-yard silhouettes and fired a 10-shot group on each, offhand (using both hands). A good omen: Tight clusters developed directly above the sights, each of which measured around two inches.

The 25-yard accuracy tests were shot on cardboard targets, off sandbags, to capture the results. Three 5-shot groups with the same TMJs produced consistent results averaging less than 2 ½-inches – better than many pistols costing two or three times as much! And once again, the groups were close to the sights.

9mm Speer 124-grain Gold Dot JHPs

The next load up, Speer’s nickel-plated defensive offering is another high-confidence round. From the Dagger, it produced similar downrange results and functioned without issues. The ejection pattern was also consistent, and the fired cases showed no signs of problems.

9mm Federal 135-grain HYDRA-SHOK JHP “Low Recoil”

The last load tested, results were on par with the other loads and free of negative surprises. As for recoil, there may have been less. But, overall, the Dagger was completely manageable.

Hits & Misses

I wrapped up the Dagger’s range session by shooting it from various angles with Speer TMJs, some of which were fired exclusively with my support (left) hand. The pistol ran without a hitch, and, across the board, accuracy was better than expected.

The trigger behaved similarly to many other striker-fired designs. It combined a distinct reset with a consistent pull (the above listed 6 ¼ lb. weight was recorded after the range session).

My only real gripe was the magazine release. As a full-time range rat, I’ve had the opportunity to play with lots of different pistols. A few had fiddly mag releases, but this one was in a league all its own.

The oft-taught partial flip failed to remedy this issue, which is apparently hit or miss. I think it’s more a matter of the shooter’s hand size relative to the grip design. For those that encounter the problem, a possible fix is an aftermarket GLOCK release.

Not a fault of the pistol, but fully loading the PMAGS with 15 rounds was a battle (my frame of reference includes sub-gun mags). The process became easier once they’d been loaded for a few days, but I’d spring for a loading device – or different mags.

As for handling, I’m more of an S&W M&P guy. Typically, a standard GLOCK indexes muzzle-up. But, despite the absence of interchangeable grip inserts, the Dagger was more of a natural pointer for me.

Another huge plus: It shot to its sights. Speaking of which, more options are available there to include night sights, etc.

The Dagger will no doubt fit some unmolded GLOCK 19 designs. It fit two different GLOCK 19 holsters that came from Falco Holsters.

Lights and Lasers

I slipped a small QD Olight PL Mini 2 Valkyrie on the Dagger’s accessory rail, using its supplied GLOCK adapter. It locked securely in place and was a nice match for the pistol.

The Dagger does lack a loaded chamber indicator, but nickel-plated cartridges were visible in the small gap adjacent to its extractor. As a “two-fer” they also provide a useful means to differentiate defensive and practice loads.

Parting Shots

A post-shooting examination (and cleaning session) indicated no obvious problems. Then again, in total, I only fired around 200 rounds – far from a comprehensive test. However, the Dagger does come with a lifetime warranty. Is the Dagger worth it? Maybe…

The original 9mm GLOCK-17 gained rapid acceptance among law enforcement agencies and civilians. The compact 15 +1 G-19 was a logical progression. Decades later, both remain polymer gold standards regarding reliability and durability. Most GLOCK devotees will have little reason to switch, but not everyone is wedded to this brand.

Also, some shoot infrequently at best, and money is often a concern. Further rationale for the purchase of a Dagger? Maybe for use as a squirreled-away spare, or even a home defense gun. Tricked-out higher end pistols can invoke litigious perils and, the expense of a competent attorney aside, a firearm used for such purposes will likely do time in an evidence locker.

Further rationale? Returning to the Prepper Kit thought, I dragged out a 9mm Windham Weaponry AR-15 carbine, configured to run on GLOCK-17 magazines. Both the 15-shot Dagger Compact and “pistol caliber carbine” functioned with magazines of either design – a reassuring footnote, given the ten PMAGS that came with the pistol.

In closing, unlike the AR-15, like a GLOCK, the PSA Dagger has no frame-mounted safety lever. However, the” safe action” system (and its variants) is safe enough – if supported by proper training. That, and adherence to Rule #3 which stipulates strict finger-off-trigger discipline.

For more about this system and other handguns of all kinds, see my book Handguns: A Buyer’s and Shooter’s Guide.

Several methods are available to estimate the weight of a fish. Some use length as well as girth measurements. Weight also can be estimated using only length measurements based on relationship between length and weight. Length-weight equations can be developed for specific waters, regions (e.g., states), or for a particular species.

Formulas containing length as well as girth are often most accurate for estimating weight, because the fatness or plumpness of the fish is accounted for. If only length is available, the most accurate weights often are estimated from length-weight relationships for specific waters or regions. For instance, in some waters fish might be relatively “skinny,” and the weight estimate might be overinflated if based on a formula created from data on a water body where fish are “fat” or even “normal.” That’s why adding girth to the formula can help with accuracy. Formula’s containing girth, however, also may not be as accurate as we’d like, because of inherent differences in the shape of fish and finding the right adjustment factor (or “shape” factor) to use in the formula. And it’s important to measure girth carefully, and at the fish’s fattest point, as girth estimates affect weight estimates powerfully.

One easy way to estimate fish weight is through the use of standard length-weight formulas. Species-specific formulas, called standard-weight equations, have been developed for dozens of fish species by fishery biologists to describe the standard growth form of a species as a whole. These relationships often are used to assess body condition (the relative weight or plumpness of a fish), which provides an index of a fish’s well-being, such as whether there are forage shortages or surpluses, and can sometimes reflect fish growth rate.

These standard length-weight formulas are often developed using thousands of fish from hundreds of populations across the range of a species, so they describe the “general” growth form of that species. For instance, the equation for black crappie was developed using over 20,000 fish across a range of sizes from 175 populations across the geographic range of black crappie.

*An important thing to keep in mind is that these standard length-weight formulas describe fish in “above-average” condition. In fact, the weights in the tables represent the 75th-percentile in the samples for that particular length, and are not average weights. In other words, if you lined up 100 random bass of the same length in order of weight, and those bass were a good representation of the range of weights for that length, the weight provided in the table would be for the 75th heaviest fish. While it might have made more sense to use the median weight for these formulas, fishery biologists decided to go with the 75th percentile so that the standard weight at a given length was an above-average or “ideal” target to shoot for in terms of body condition. So, if your fish appears plump and healthy, the weights from the table should be relatively close. If your fish is skinny to average, it will weigh less, and if very plump and remarkably “fat” it will weigh more. Just make an adjustment. No formula is 100-percent accurate, but if you have only length and not girth, this should help get you in the ballpark. Your state fishery agency may have standard weight tables based on regional data posted on their website. These formulas use total length of the fish, measured from the tip of the snout to the tip of the tail fin when compressed.

Crappie Length To Weight Conversion Charts

White Crappie 6 in0.09 lb7 in0.16 lb8 in0.25 lb9 in0.36 lb10 in0.52 lb11 in0.71 lb12 in0.95 lb13 in1.24 lb14 in1.59 lb15 in2.00 lb16 in2.48 lb17 in3.03 lb18 in3.67 lb

Black Crappie6 in0.11 lb7 in0.18 lb8 in0.28 lb9 in0.41 lb10 in0.59 lb11 in0.81 lb12 in1.08 lb13 in1.41 lb14 in1.81 lb15 in2.28 lb16 in2.83 lb17 in3.47 lb18 in4.20 lb

Most of us omnivores eschew turkey tendons, the elastic strands that get in the way of a forkful of pure dark- or light-meat delight. For a team of Brown University researchers, however, these dinner discards are providing some new insights into how our bodies move and protect important muscle fibers.

High-impact activities, such as hiking down a mountain, can be hard on our muscles, as the hard shock of landings damages fibers (fascicles) during descent.

Muscles, however, are not acting alone, it turns out. “We used to think that all of the motion of the body could be explained from the action of our muscle motors,” Thomas Roberts, an associate professor of biology at Brown and co-author of the study, said in a prepared statement. “It is becoming increasingly apparent that springy tendons are a big part of what makes us go.” And what help us stop, according to the new turkey research, published online Tuesday in Proceedings of the Royal Society B.

Turkeys happen to have a similar muscle and tendon structure in their legs as humans do, even though their knees bend the opposite way. So the researchers dropped half a dozen wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) and used high-speed sensors and cameras to observe their landings. How do you drop a 9.5-pound turkey, scientifically? The birds were placed in harnesses, lifted 1.5 meters into the air and then released (a height from which, the researchers noted, “the animals were able to land safely, repeatedly in a controlled fashion”). Foil strain gauges glued to turkey’s tendons were used to measure changes in muscle fibers 1,000 times a second via sonomicrometry.

The turkey landing data suggested that tendons can protect surrounding muscle fibers by taking in a good portion of the initial energy from a hard landing—then releasing it back to surrounding muscles more slowly.

“Something has to take up the slack, and it falls to the tendon,” Nicolai Konow, a postdoctoral research in ecology and evolutionary biology at Brown, and paper co-author, said in a prepared statement.

The process of landing turns out to be similar to what we already know about how the tendons and muscles work together to take off for a jump. When a person—or domestic fowl—jumps up, the power initially generated by the muscle is, in part, stored by the tendon, which provides the quick-release burst of energy. Just the opposite happens upon landing to dissipate the energy, the new findings suggest: “Power attenuation is similar to the familiar mechanisms of power amplification,” the research team wrote in their study. “In both cases, the tendon allows a separation in time of the muscular event and the movement event.” On the turkeys’ landings, the muscle fibers stiffened against the impact, sending energy to the tendon, which then released it some 2.4 times more slowly back to the muscle fibers.

The findings could have an impact, so to speak, on reconstructive tendon surgery as well as sports training, where the results might come as somewhat of a shock. After all, tendons are often thought of as the vulnerable links, owing in part to the major problems they can cause if they snap (think of poor Achilles). But perhaps we can think of the tendons as protectors, too. “We can say that in real ways, the muscle has a safety net with the tendon there protecting it,” Konow said.