Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Among the strongest and most reliable ATVs ever produced is the Kawasaki Prairie 650. This mean machine, launched in 2002, dominated the off-roading scene and introduced many firsts to the public – defining the sport-utility sub-segment in the process. It was one of the most successful off-road vehicles of its time, earning the “Design and Engineering Award” in Popular Mechanics and being highly regarded by ATV magazines and publications.

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 goes down in ATV history as the world’s first mass-produced quad to sport a V-Twin power mill. Apart from its monstrous 633-cm3 engine, this award-winning 4×4 boasts a variable limited-slip front differential, impressive powerband, and industry-leading features.

One of Team Green’s breakthrough machines, the Kawasaki Prairie 650, started a whole new era of high-standard behemoths – its massive torque making it a force to be reckoned with (literally!). No wonder it has inspired the creation of other iconic Kawasaki quads. Read on and learn more about the capabilities and evolution of this off-road legend.

The King of Firsts

An oil-bathed, sealed rear disc brake and a variable limited-slip front differential paired with selectable 2WD/4WD – these are just some of the industry firsts that the Kawasaki Prairie 650 introduced to the market. These features may be puny for some (in today’s standards). But two decades ago, only a handful of well-engineered ORVs had these luxuries – and the lime-green wheeler was one of them.

Initially conceptualized as a utility quad, the Prairie soon morphed into a sport-utility four-wheeler to cater to the increasing number of riders gravitating toward dual-purpose, big-bore machines.

Launched as a 650-class ATV, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 soon upgraded to a 697-cm3 power mill in 2004. The Prairie left the Brute Force lineup to carry on the slightly smaller engine displacement for a little while – as the said series eventually released the Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i five years after.

Whether it be the 650- or 700-class trim, both big-bore machines had dual carbs and shared almost similar vehicle dimensions. Undoubtedly, this uncanny resemblance between the two is why most consumers confuse one with the other.

Performance

This high-performance wheeler is unquestionably bulletproof. However, tight wooded trails and rough terrain are not the most suitable for this big-bore machine. The topography adversely affects the performance of its suspension system. In these environments, the Prairie falls behind its counterparts in soaking up bumps and ripples. Owners can always equip their 4x4s with Rear Shocks.

But since the front suspension is non-adjustable, it would be challenging for the quad’s suspension system to be fully optimized.

Conversely, the four-wheeler can soar through straight-line acceleration on grass tracks and straightaways. Steep engine-draining trails and mountains also become playgrounds for this beast – thanks to its differential lock, twin-carburetor setup, and unrelenting power.

In truth, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 can slice through these settings’ most technical portions with ease – but in the hands of a highly-skilled driver.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Specs & Features

Engine

Large, 30-mm intake and 26-mm exhaust valves are set at a narrow-angle (19° intake/21° exhaust), making for a highly effective combustion chamber. A high-quality foam air filter and dual Keihin CVKR-D32 downdraft carburetors lend to the vehicle’s fuel efficiency and smooth throttle responsiveness. (TIP: When cleaning the fuel tank, never use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to avoid potential dangers of fire or explosion.)

Drivetrain

A dual-range automatic KAPS (Kawasaki Automatic Powerdrive System) CVT transmission, inclusive of the Kawasaki Engine Brake Control system and a reverse, handle the shifting. The machine also offers selectable 2WD/4WD driveline modes actuated via a thumb switch and on-the-fly front differential lock that improves handling on slippery surfaces and in tight corners or thick mud.

Ignition

The KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release), paired with an electric-recoil starting system, makes starting the Prairie 650 a breeze. A cigarette-style DC outlet at the handlebar base and a trailer-type connector at the rear provide quick, accessible power for electronic accessories.

At some point, you would need to swap out stock batteries. If so, a Kepworth KP14-BS 12V LiFePO4 Battery (view on Amazon) would be a good replacement – it is leak-proof and has a low self-discharge rate.

Tires & Brakes

Dual front hydraulic disc brakes fitted with dual-piston calipers and enclosed oil-bathed multi-disc rear disc brakes provide stopping power. This brake system mates to a Kawasaki-exclusive Engine Brake Control system that electronically observes ground speed and uses engine compression to slow the quad down.

Suspension

Minimal differences can be observed between the Prairie 360 and this machine’s suspension components since the former is an exact carbon-copy of the latter. The caster angle and rear suspension wheel travel were improved a bit, while the rest remained unchanged.

Dimensions

While the Prairie 650 weighs the same as its smaller-displacement sibling, this 4×4 has a larger trailer weight and carrier capacity. The curb weight is 294.06 Kg/648.3 lbs – merely 5.0 lbs more than the Brute Force 650.

Exterior

Unlike Team Green’s 300-class four-wheelers, the Prairie 650 did not fall short on instrumentation. A multi-function meter comes standard across all trims and year models. Adjustable footpegs atop full footboards make long trail rides enjoyable. The saddle comfortably sits taller riders. Plus, the machine’s tubular space frame allows owners to personalize their wheelers with aftermarket Kawasaki Prairie 650 parts and accessories.

K-EBC™ (Kawasaki Engine Brake Control)

The K-EBC™ system enhances the quad’s brake systems with the engine’s additional braking force. Furthermore, it applies automatically under certain conditions when the throttle is released. This feature is ideal for use when descending steep declines, becoming an added safety measure that keeps the speed of the Prairie safe regardless of the type of terrain, rider skill level, or operating conditions.

However, note that the K-EBC™ is best as a supplemental braking system at low speeds (between 3-20 km/h) and does not work in reverse.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Pricing

The table below shows the list price of all Kawasaki Prairie 650- and 700-cc models and trims released from 2002 to 2006 (Source: Nada Guides):

Surprisingly, auction listings are slightly higher than retail pricing and range from $775 to $4,510. Resale units are mostly 2002-2003 models – vehicle conditions vary depending on the year, trim, and upkeep done by the previous owner. Typically, pre-loved Prairies have 8,000 miles, 430 to < 1,900 hours, and with no title.

Rare finds, on the other hand, are freshly overhauled and come with a recovery winch like Mile Marker 77-53120W Premium Sealed Electric Winch (view on Amazon) or aftermarket wheels/tires. If you want to be guaranteed a Prairie in near-mint condition, be prepared to spend at least $2,800 for a secondhand unit.

Known Issues of the Prairie 650

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 4×4’s service manual contains troubleshooting steps that would solve most of its common problems. But for more persistent challenges, you need to visit forums and other Kawie community sites to get specifics on how to resolve them. Here are some of the machine’s more prevalent issues and their corresponding fixes:

Cold-starting Hiccups

If the Kawasaki Prairie 650 quads had one major setback, that would be a specific functionality of its monstrous V-Twin engine. This powerplant retards the vehicle’s ignition until it reaches a certain RPM, leading to a difficult engine startup – particularly on a cold February morning.

If you are a long-time Prairie owner, you would know that the choke is used more frequently during cold weather. Otherwise, you may want to check if the under-seat valve is turned on or if there is any obstruction in the petcock valve, causing possible fuel starvation.

Faulty K-EBC™ and 2WD/4WD Actuators

The engine brake system and driveline actuators of the Prairie 650 are quite an upset for Kawie riders, as they are not known for their durability. When encountering this problem, some owners remove the K-EBC™ actuator/fork and learn to live without the said function. Others choose to remove the 2WD/4WD actuator, modifying it to have a choke cable setup to run manually.

However, addressing the issue entails more than just pinning the blame on the actuator/controller alone. Defective electrical components could also cause the problem, such as:

• Shorted/Open speed sensor
• Forward/Reverse gear detecting a shorted/open sensor
• Controller (10 Amp) fuse blown
• Disconnected battery

Leaking Oil Seals

Engine and front/rear differential oil seals on the Kawasaki Prairie 650 tend to leak. Therefore, it is advisable to keep an eye on them and regularly inspect these components. Oil seal lips that are misshapen, discolored, or hardened indicate rubber deterioration and warrant immediate replacement. The same goes for oil seals that are visibly damaged or dried out.

Veteran owners do not recommend jumping while in 4WD, as this also aggravates the leaking problem. It would also be wise to check other things like degraded valve gaskets, damaged driveshaft/axles, and oxidation on the shaft and other metal surfaces. Quads that have sat for a while are also more likely to have this problem than those frequently used and properly maintained.

Weak Choke Springs

First-year Prairie 650 carburetors had flimsy choke springs that caused gasoline to fill the engine when not in use. Similarly, post-2002 models had sticky choke plungers that resulted in poor idling. The permanent fix for this issue was to replace the stock choke springs with a later-model-year variant.

Turning off the petcock valve when the quad is not in use also helps, especially before trailering or storage (and for extended periods). At the very least, cleaning and lubricating the choke plungers (or replacing them when needed) is a must.

Other Problems

• MacPherson Strut springs are too soft for fast-paced riding.
• Airbox snorkel and CDI are too restrictive.
• Swingarm bearings and rear secondary clutch wear out prematurely.
• The fuse box connections are prone to corrosion.
• The stock radiator fan breaker (a.k.a. buss connector) tends to malfunction.
• Mounting bolts on the rocker arm shaft tend to loosen, potentially causing catastrophic damage to the motor’s top-end.

Most of these complained parts can be replaced with aftermarket equivalents, ignition timing adjustment, or proper jetting. Others are resolved or prevented through religious upkeep of the machine and avoiding over-the-top activities.

Do not worry – sport racing, serious mudding, and ripping through the dunes are not prohibited. But please, do these in moderation. And remember to clean your four-wheeler thoroughly after every ride.

About Kawasaki

Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. is a prominent institution in the ATV landscape and maker of industry-leading vehicles like the Kawasaki Prairie 650. The Japanese firm was founded in 1878 and traces its humble beginnings to being a part supplier for shipping businesses.

Since then, this world-renowned manufacturer has ventured into other transport industries and grown into massive production of transit, aerospace and energy systems, hydraulic machinery, motorcycles, off-road vehicles, side x sides, and personal watercraft.

Conclusion – Kawasaki Prairie 650 Review

One thing often overlooked about high-performance quads like the Kawasaki Prairie 650 is that they require a certain level of maintenance and care. What all riders must realize is top-caliber 4x4s are usually the most finicky. Therefore, flimsy parts or factory-assembly flaws are not always responsible for wear and tear. Driving conditions and not rider behavior have more of an adverse impact on the longevity of our vehicle.

All in all, this highly-acclaimed trail beast is a dream to ride. Its smooth but monstrous power delivery, low-range torque, well-designed chassis, and other best-engineered mechanisms only prove why present-day off-road icons took inspiration from this big-bore machine. If you want a four-wheeler that can conquer slow-crawling sections as well as high-altitude areas, then look no further than the hardworking and timeless Kawasaki Prairie 650.

I was down on the creek fishing a few weeks ago and what did my wondering eyes see? Yep, a snapping turtle trying to hurry and get to deeper water because he knew he had been spotted. I didn’t bother jumping down the bank and grabbing him this time but I usually do that once or twice a year. Snapping turtles are prevalent here in Kansas. You’ll see them walking through pastures or crossing the road. You may catch one on the end of your fishing line or just see one up in the shallows like I did. So the hard part isn’t catching one but rather cutting into it. At least it was for me. The shell is a nightmare to get off if you don’t know where to cut and when. I’ll walk you through the process so if you’ve never tried snapping turtle, you can now!

Step 1: Get a snapper. They can be easily handled by the tail, just stay away from their head.

Step 2: Stand on the back of its shell and give it a good smack in the nose, driving its head back towards its shell. This will render the turtle stunned for a bit. While the turtle is still out of its wits grab its head with a pliers or your hand and pull up. Make a quick clean cut from its throat, navigating through its spine, and finally cut the head off. This method, if done right, will make a very quick and clean dispatch for the turtle. Step 3: I use a 2×12 with a 16 penny nail drove through the bottom sticking up to hold my turtle in place. Simply drop the turtle upside down on the nail and it’ll stay in place while you cut it up. This way also allows you to spin the turtle as you work. Begin by cutting off each foot. The joints are about an inch behind the claws. Use your knife to gently find your way between joints. This will prevent the turtle from clawing and scratching you during the butchering process.

Step 4: Now to get the shell off. Cut right down the center of the bottom plate to its vent; use a wooden baton if needed. Then cut around the perimeter of the shell. Step 5: Skin the turtle from the middle out. Be careful when starting because the front shoulder blade is right next to the bottom shell. Once again, let your knife “feel” its way through.

Step 6: Work your way around the legs. Right now you are skinning the turtle just as you would with any other animal. Do both sides the same. Step 7: Once the skin and bottom portion of the shell are removed. You’ll now quarter out the limbs. Turtles have a different bone structure then other animals so it’ll take some trial and error to get the quarters off. This one happened to be a female, not a bad thing for here. Notice all the eggs, which can also be eaten. Step 8: Work out the rest of the quarters.

Once the 4 quarters are out, cut off the neck and tail. As you can see, there’s a lot of meat on one turtle! Step 9: Using your baton again, gently cut down each side of the backstrap. Remove each side and trim off the cartilage. Step 10: From this point, trim the meat; cutting off any damaged parts, yellow linings, or other unwanted parts. Step 11: Rinse the meat and soak in salt water overnight in the refrigerator. What’s left over from butchering can be used for fishing bait or trapping bait (where legal).The shell works as a good attractor for trapping. Step 12: Lastly, when I make turtle I boil the meat for about 90 mins. This will tenderize it and cook it. For flavoring I’ll then throw it into the cast iron skillet with a little oil and seasoning. Brown each side and you’ll be good to go. Turtle is very good and cutting one up is a skill worth knowing.

You’re here for the best 223 ammo, but a disclaimer needs to be made because many will argue that .223 Remington and 5.56 Nato are the same.

They are NOT the same despite having the exact external cartridge dimensions.

You should NOT load 5.56mm NATO ammo into a .223 Remington chamber because it will cause higher chamber pressures when fired. The higher pressure can hurt the shooter and damage the rifle.

However, shooting .223 Rem ammunition in a 5.56mm NATO chamber is safe. Still, you will sacrifice some performance because of the difference in distance between the case mouth and the barrel rifling.

With that out of the way, let’s load up on some of the best .223 ammo for every shooter.

If you can’t wait, the best 223 ammo is Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT because it’s reasonably priced and made by a well-known ammo manufacturer.

1. Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Best Plinking Round
2. Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT – Best AR15 Ammo
3. Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64 Grain Extreme Point – Best Deer Hunting Round
4. Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition – Best 223 Varmint Round
5. Remington 223 Rem 77 Grain HPBT – Best Self-Defense Round
6. Winchester 223 Rem 69 Grain HPBT – Best Hollow Point
7. TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Cheap .223 Ammo

Best 223 Target Ammo

The best target ammo depends on your preferences. If you intend to have a fun day of plinking, then you’ll want cheap .223 ammo.

However, suppose you’re competitively target shooting. In that case, you’ll likely need to handload your rounds to dial them in perfectly for your gun’s barrel twist rate, or you can use match-grade ammo that is more consistent than inexpensive rounds, but you give up the control to craft the perfect round.

Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: N/A
• Muzzle Energy: N/A

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Non-Corrosive

Cons

• Some shooters prefer a brass case over a steel case

Why We Chose It

These Wolf Ammo rounds are a happy compromise between price and reliability, which is why I consider them one of the best for plinking. While most shooters prefer a brass case, these rounds are steel cased, which has its pros and cons.

Steel-cased ammo is cheaper but tougher on your rifle. Steel cases are also more difficult to reload, so if you plan to reload, this probably isn’t the ammo for you.

Though 55gr rounds typically have a higher velocity, they’re not always the ideal bullet weight, especially when shooting long distances.

Wolf ammo is for the budget-minded shooter who doesn’t have the time to reload.

Honorable Mentions

If you want an inexpensive brass casing for target shooting, the PMC 223 55 Grain FMJ-BT is the way to go, but be aware you will pay a little extra for the brass casing.

The Federal Premium 223 Rem 42 Grain Frang. rounds are intended for close-range target shooting and law enforcement training situations. The frangible bullets are much less likely to ricochet when they hit a steel target because they are designed to disintegrate on impact.

Suppose you’re running low on hand-loaded rounds and must practice for a long-range competitive shooting match. In that case, the Remington Premier 223 Rem 55 Grain AccuTip-V rounds are a viable option based on their ballistics.

Best AR 15 Ammo

Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced

Cons

• Not the best self-defense round

Why We Chose It

You can burn through a lot of 223 Remington ammo when shooting an AR, so you don’t want high-end expensive ammo, but you need a reliable round that will allow your firearm to operate smoothly.

That’s where this 55gr bullet in a brass case perfectly fits. It’s not the most expensive, so it’s not terrible on your wallet, but also dependable for target shooting.

However, this would not be my first choice for home defense because the Federal .223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT is a full metal jacket bullet instead of a hollow point bullet.

This 55-grain bullet has a decent velocity, but the lightweight bullet will be affected more by the wind as your distance to the target increases.

Honorable Mention

The Wolf WPA Military Classic 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ was designed for mass production for military use, so it’s inexpensive and relatively reliable. The significant downside is that these are steel cartridges instead of brass.

Best 223 Hunting Ammo

The 223 is not the most popular hunting round because it lacks the power to harvest big game ethically. However, in some states, you can use a .223 Rem for deer hunting, and it is a solid varmint round.

Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64-Grain Extreme Point Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: XP (Extreme Point)
• Bullet Weight: 64gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,020 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,296 ft-lbs

Pros

• Designed for deer hunting
• It packs a punch for a medium-weight 223 bullet
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Expensive
• 223 is not the best deer hunting caliber

Why We Chose It

It’s unlikely you’ll shoot an entire box of ammo for deer season, so the price per round is less of a concern. The most important things you need from your .223 ammo for deer hunting are reliability, consistency, and stopping power which Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr can offer hunters.

The 223 Remington is not known for its stopping power, which is why most deer hunters use larger calibers, and it’s banned in some states. However, increasing the bullet weight will aid in upping the stopping power to a point.

The heavier 64gr bullet is slower than the other lighter bullets, but it’s needed to increase the stopping power.

Even though it’s designed for deer hunting, it’s effective in other hunting situations.

Honorable Mention

The Federal 223 Rem 62 Grain Fusion has a little lighter bullet that you’d expect to travel faster than the Winchester Deer Season XP; however, that’s not the case. The main advantage this bonded soft point bullet has is the price. It’s much cheaper than the Winchester Deer Season XP, so you can practice with it more without breaking the bank.

Best Varmint 223 Round

Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: V-Max
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Fast
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Can get expensive

Why We Chose It

Varmint hunting typically involves shooting much more often than deer hunting, so having a dependable round, reasonably priced, is critical. Varmints are generally smaller animals, so the knockdown power doesn’t have to be as much as when hunting big game.

Because they’re lightweight, fast-traveling bullets, 223 bullets are a solid choice for hunting coyotes, prairie dogs, and other varmints, and the Hornady 55gr V-MAX is no exception.

The 3,240 fps of this Varmint Express round is the high average for most 55gr bullets, which is expected from Hornady. They’re one of the leading ammo manufacturers and trusted by many shooters and hunters because of the dependability of their ammunition.

For more options, check out our Hornady 223 ammo page.

Honorable Mention

The Sierra Prairie Enemy 223 55 Grain BlitzKing has lower muzzle velocity and muzzle energy, and it’s more expensive than the Hornady 55-grain bullet, but some rifles are more accurate with this round.

Best Home Defense Round

AR-15s excel in urban combat areas; however, that doesn’t mean they’re the best home defense weapon.

That title belongs to the shotgun because projectiles from a shotgun are less likely to over-penetrate.

However, if all you have is a 223 rifle, then, by all means, use it to defend yourself using some of the ammo choices below.

Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 77-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,790 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,331 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• High muzzle energy
• A heavier bullet means more knockdown power

Cons

• Lower muzzle velocity
• Not cheap

Why We Chose It

Though it’s not the fastest, it’s one of the heaviest 223 hollow point bullets available, so it will pack more of a punch to the threat, hence the higher muzzle energy.

Since Remington is in the name of the 223, we should expect them to make the best 223 ammo on the market, and they are a trusted brand in the ammo space, though some Remington firearms have seen a decline in quality.

Be prepared to spend more for this and other home defense rounds. This is partly due to the specialized bullets used in defense rounds.

Despite being slower than lighter bullets, the muzzle velocity is still plenty fast. An intruder won’t notice the difference in speed if you’re forced to use it to defend your family and yourself.

Honorable Mentions

The Federal LE Tactical TRU 223 Rem 55 Grain Nosler Ballistic Tip Ammunition offers a lighter bullet, which means less recoil, not that a 223 has much recoil anyways, and it also travels faster. However, this means you’re giving up some stopping power, but you’re saving a little money.

The most expensive self-defense round we will mention today is the Winchester Silvertip 223 Rem 64 Grain Defense Tip. Ballistically speaking, it sits in the middle, primarily because the bullet weight is between the other two rounds previously mentioned.

Best Hollow Point 223

Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 69-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,060 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,434 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced
• Solid ballistics

Cons

• Not the fastest
• Not the cheapest

Why We Chose It

The Winchester .223 Rem 69gr hollow point boat tail bullets might not be the cheapest or the fastest, but they pack more of a punch than the lighter hollow points, and they’re not overpriced despite being manufactured by a trusted brand.

The ballistics won’t blow anyone away, but considering the bullet weight, these rounds hold their own.

These 69gr hollow points offer shooters a higher velocity and muzzle energy than other heavier bullets, so maybe you can have your cake and eat it too.

I wouldn’t hesitate to use Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT in a home defense situation plus; they’re not so expensive you can’t afford to practice with them at times.

For more options, check out our Winchester 223 ammo page!

Honorable Mention

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain HP are much cheaper than the Winchester 69gr HPBT, and they’re faster thanks to the lighter bullet, which also means less recoil. However, the cartridges are steel instead of brass.

Cheapest 223 Ammo

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,241 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,283 ft-lbs

Pros

• Cheap
• High muzzle velocity

Cons

• Steel casing
• Cheap ammo is less dependable

Why We Chose It

If you want cheap 223 ammo, this is it. It’s a third of the price of most 223 Rem hunting and self-defense ammo, so if you take it to the range, you’ll be able to stay longer because you’re not spending your paycheck on ammo for target practice.

The reason it’s so cheap is that it’s steel-cased ammunition. This means it’ll be more challenging to reload and a little tougher on your firearm.

Despite being cheap, TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ offers shooters comparable ballistics to more expensive 55gr ammo, which means you can train with it and get similar results as the costly ammunition.

Honorable Mention

Though Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ is slightly more expensive than the Tula ammo mentioned above, sometimes you can find it in Wolf Gold, which means it is a brass case instead of a steel case.

How to Choose the Best 223 Ammo Based on Your Needs

When purchasing ammunition, you’re typically compromising because there’s no perfect ammunition. There are always several considerations that you need to make.

Budget

The primary consideration for the average firearms enthusiast is the budget.

How much are you able to spend on ammo?

My personal preference is to shoot for somewhere in the middle; however, there were times when I was pinching every penny, so I was only concerned with the cheapest ammo I could find.

Remember that cheaper ammo tends to be less reliable than more expensive ammunition.

Reliability

The reliability of the ammo is critical, especially if it’s self-defense ammo. You need to know that the round will fire when you pull the trigger.

I’ve purchased ammunition that regularly didn’t fire, despite seeing an indention on the primer. This was very frustrating when shooting at the range, but it could have resulted in severe harm had I needed it during a defensive situation.

I tend to stick with well-known brands, but sometimes the reliability of the ammo also depends on your firearm.

Some guns function better with specific ammunition brands. This means you’ll need to test several brands to determine which one your weapon likes best.

Ballistics

The ballistics you need out of the ammo will depend on what application for which you’re using it. If you’re plinking at the range, the ballistics don’t matter as much as when you’re shooting in a competition.

For a competition, typically, a fast medium-weight bullet works best, but once again, it will depend on what your gun likes. Sometimes the lighter, faster bullets work best, and sometimes the heavier bullets work best.

I prefer to stick with medium-weight bullets that still pack a punch for hunting and self-defense. The muzzle velocity is less important but still relevant in hunting situations.

How to Save Money On Ammo

As ammo demand and prices continue only to increase, as shooting enthusiasts, we’re always looking for ways to save a little money so that we can visit the gun range more often.

Here are a few recommendations I have for saving money on 223 ammo.

Buying in Bulk

When you buy bulk 223 ammo, the manufacturer and retailer give you a slight discount per round. While it might only be a few cents per round, those cents add up quickly when you’re shooting a few hundred rounds or more on every visit to the gun range.

The worst part about buying bulk ammo is the initial cost. You have to spend several hundred dollars to get significant savings.

However, ammunition lasts for a long time when properly stored, so you can stock up while prices are as low as they’ll ever be and not be in a rush to shoot it.

Reloading

Reloading or handloading is another way to save money on factory ammo. You can use spent brass and reload it by cleaning the brass, punching out the used primer, inserting a new one, pouring in gunpowder, and inserting a new bullet.

Obviously, this is an oversimplified explanation, but that’s the basic idea.

This saves money in the long run and gives you more control over the process so you can craft the perfect bullet for your gun, whether that’s an AR-15 rifle or a trusty bolt-action hunting rifle.

Reloading has the same problem as buying bulk because it’s a significant investment upfront that pays itself off over the long run.

If you’re really crazy, like most of us firearms enthusiasts, you’ll do both, buy in bulk and reload to save even more money!

Common 223 Bullet Types

There’s not a wide variety of 223 bullets, but there are a few you should be aware of and understand which one works best in what situations.

FMJ

The most common 223 bullets are FMJs or Full Metal Jackets. They’re usually the least expensive. They’re not the best for home defense because they tend to over-penetrate the target and walls.

FMJs are suitable for target practice; however, I don’t recommend shooting steel targets with FMJs within 100 yards. I have had the metal jacket come back and cut my cheek when shooting metal targets at 75 yards with a buddy.

HPBT

Hollow Point Boat Tail Bullets or HPBT are common hunting and self-defense rounds. The hollow point expands on impact, which reduces its ability to penetrate but, upon entrance, causes more damage.

For more HPBT ammo options, visit our Fiocchi 223 ammo page.

The Boat Tail refers to the aerodynamic shape of the bottom of the bullet. The base is tapered to improve accuracy at long distances.

SP

The Soft Point bullets, designated by SP, expand less on impact than hollow point bullets, so they get better penetration yet expand more than an FMJ. So you can have a happy medium between the two bullet types.

To achieve this, these bullets are made from a softer lead than the typical bullet. They are most popular amongst big game hunters, where hollow point bullets are banned. However, they don’t have the stopping power that hollow points typically do because of the reduction in expansion.

Ballistic Tip

The Ballistic Tip is Nosler’s name for their hunting ammunition with a plastic tip on a hollow point bullet. The polymer tip helps with aerodynamics and allows the hollow point uniformly expand.

Be sure to check your local hunting regulations, as Ballistic Tipped bullets are banned in some areas.

Green Tip

Green Tip ammo is most often found in 5.56 NATO rounds because it’s designed for the military as a penetrator round. Instead of a lead core bullet, it has a steel rod inside that can better penetrate the target when closer than 100 yards.

However, some ranges don’t allow green tip ammo, so if you choose to go this route, don’t be surprised if your local gun range doesn’t allow you to bring it in.

Parting Shots

The best 223 ammo for you will depend on your gun and the circumstances in which you intend to use it.

For hunting, that will likely be Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr.

While if you plan to use it for home defense, I recommend Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT because the hollow point bullet is less likely to over-penetrate.

Lastly, for target shooting, I recommend Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ because it’s inexpensive.

For someone who, to hear him tell it, had been “painting like a madman,” 2024 DU Artist of the Year Richard Clifton seemed remarkably relaxed. The 60-year-old Clifton, who lives on a 115-acre farm adjoining the Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge in southeastern Delaware, was preparing for his turn as the featured artist at the Waterfowl Festival in Easton, Maryland, and a production crew was arriving soon to get footage of him for a festival video.

Plus, as if he didn’t already have enough on his plate, Clifton’s furnace had stopped working, and his repair guy, like repair guys everywhere these days, was having trouble finding the parts he needed.

But if Clifton was feeling stressed, you couldn’t detect it in his voice. A native son of Delaware who grew up on a farm just a few miles from the one he owns today, he talks the way farmers do-softly, evenly, and without an excess of emotion, as if he were describing the weather. You can hear it in the way he drops the g in words like “thinking” and “working,” and you can hear his Tidewater accent in the way a word like oil comes out sounding like ohl.

His roots in the region run deep. “On my mom’s side they were carpenters,” he related, “and on my dad’s side they were farmers. So I’ve got both those things in my blood. I can actually do a little bit of carpentry. I’ve built a deck around our swimming pool twice now-it got more extravagant the second time. And I know how to drive a tractor, work ground, and do those kinds of things.”

At the moment Clifton farms some of his ground himself and rents the rest, but he’s leaning toward taking over the entire operation. As he put it, “I want to see if I can get my farmin’ legs back and make a little money off the place.” He’s thinking, too, of a crop rotation that will allow him to harvest a short-season corn variety in early August, then plant Japanese millet. “Lord willin’ and the creek don’t rise,” Clifton explained, “the millet would make heads by mid-October.”

In other words, just in time for the waterfowl season.

The tradition of waterfowl hunting also runs deep in Clifton’s family. A good portion of the property now encompassed by the Prime Hook refuge was originally “Clifton land,” and while he missed out on some of the marsh gunning his father and uncles enjoyed when he was growing up, he took full advantage of the field hunting opportunities available to him. To the best of Clifton’s knowledge, in fact, he was the first person in those parts to hunt snow geese with a rag-style decoy spread.

“I had this idea,” he recalled with a little laugh, “that I could drape white kitchen trash bags over corn stubble. The first time I tried it I went by myself, so if it turned out to be really dumb no one else would know. But it turned out that the geese fell for it. I killed a limit of snows and a couple of Canadas that first day, and after that it was game on for several years until the birds got wise to it.”

At the same time that the teenaged Clifton was getting his legs under him as a waterfowler, the art he saw in the pages of magazines like Ducks Unlimited, Sports Afield, and Field & Stream planted the seed of another idea. He began thinking that it might be possible to emulate the likes of David Maass and Jim Killen, to name a couple of the artists whose work inspired him, and carve out a career painting ducks and geese.

“I was starting to have that dream,” he told me. “And I wondered if I was capable of doing something like that. It turned out that I was, but way back then it was just a dream. You’re thinking, lsquo;Man, it would really be something if I could be like one of those guys.’

“And now I’m a four-time DU Artist of the Year, which is pretty exciting. I also just learned that I won the Delaware duck stamp contest for the 10th time. If you’re counting, and some people are, that gives me 54 duck stamps altogether, including two federal duck stamps.”

Not bad for an artist who’s entirely self-taught and, in his own words, “figured things out mostly by trial and error.”

For his 2024 DU Artist of the Year image, Green-Wings Across the Bow, Clifton chose to fill the frame with a small flock of vividly realized American green-winged teal buzzing the bow of an ancient wooden boat-a boat that, over the years, has become as much a part of the marsh as the cattails themselves. It’s the second time he’s depicted greenwings for his Artist of the Year painting. When I asked him about that he replied, “To me they’re an iconic duck-hunting species. I have old photos of my dad and uncles after a day of hunting on land that’s now part of the refuge. They’re holding their double-barreled shotguns, and most of the ducks in their bags are green-winged teal.

“I’ve always felt a special pull from greenwings. They’re emblematic of the tradition of waterfowl hunting in my family. That’s why I wanted to incorporate the boat into the image, to include a piece of that tradition.”

To see more of Richard Clifton’s work, visit richardclifton.com.

Ducks Unlimited’s 2024 National Art Package Contributing Artists

Manitoba Morning by Bruce Miller

Bruce Miller is a native Minnesotan and a passionate sportsman, and his art is inspired by his experiences in the outdoors. Miller has won over 50 awards for his work, and his paintings have been featured in many art shows in both the United States and Canada. His work has been featured in the DU National Art Package more than 10 times. This year’s print features a regal black Lab focused on ducks circling below an overcast sky.

Droppin’ In by Scot Storm

Scot Storm’s artwork reflects his efforts to re-create the excitement and drama of encounters with wildlife in the great outdoors. Storm has won the federal duck stamp competition twice and has been named DU’s Artist of the Year three times. His love of hunting and the outdoors inspired him to step away from a successful architecture career and pursue his love of wildlife art. Storm’s painting Droppin’ In depicts two groups of pintails descending into a marsh in front of a rainbow-lit sky. In the background, a flock of American green-winged teal buzz the surface of the wetland.

2022/2024 Federal Duck Stamp Print by Jim Hautman

Jim Hautman has won the federal duck stamp contest a record-setting six times. He and his brothers, Joe and Bob, are probably the most famous family in the world of wildlife art. Each brother is an accomplished painter, and they owe their inspiration to their mother, who is also a talented artist, and their father, who instilled in his sons a love for the outdoors. Jim’s latest duck stamp painting features a pair of redheads in rough water under a menacing sky. DU is offering a gorgeous print of this historic painting framed, double matted, and inlaid with a DU crest medallion and a carved feather.

2024 DU Stamp Print by Adam Grimm

In 1999, at the age of 21, Adam Grimm became the youngest person to ever win the federal duck stamp competition. Since then, he has attained widespread recognition as one of the country’s most talented wildlife artists. His painting of a pair of green-winged teal graces the 40th Ducks Unlimited stamp. The stunning package, which is available at DU events, includes a mint stamp, an artist-signed stamp, a matching print, and a stamp medallion.

Ducks Unlimited’s Guns of the Year

DU’s 2024 Rifle of the Year is a Christensen Arms Mesa bolt-action rifle chambered in .308. It has a custom-colored bronze stock with a black Cerakoted barrel and action and comes with a mounted Leupold VX Freedom 3-9×50 scope with Leupold’s proprietary Firedot illumination technology. This handsome rifle also includes the Ducks Unlimited logo on the floor plate and bolt knob and comes with a hard plastic gun case and gun lock.

DU’s Shotgun of the Year for 2024 is a Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 (SBE3) in 28-gauge. This semiautomatic shotgun has a 3-inch chamber, 28-inch highly polished blued barrel, coin-finished receiver, DU exclusive oil-finished walnut stock, and engraving featuring a gold-inlaid waterfowl scene and the DU logo. The engraving complements that of DU’s Guns of the Year from 2019 and 2022-a 12-gauge SBE3 and a 20-gauge SBE3, respectively. This beautiful firearm comes with five extended choke tubes, a special DU serial number, and a gun lock.

The 2024 Handgun of the Year is a Springfield Garrison 1911 semiautomatic pistol chambered in .45 ACP. This eye-catching pistol features a carbon steel frame and slide, custom 24-karat gold engraving, a five-inch barrel, and additional custom DU engraving on wooden grips. Made in the United States, this firearm comes with a hard case and gun lock.

Continue Reading

Hornady’s new 7mm PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is probably the best long-range 7mm cartridge ever introduced. As with all rifle cartridges, handloading tuned ammo for it helps achieve the best it has to offer. The 7mm PRC’s DNA is 100 percent long range. As such, loading highly aerodynamic bullets is recommended. The cartridge doesn’t offer any advantage with light 7mm bullets.

As spec’d by SAAMI, the 7mm PRC has a rifling twist rate of 1:8. This enables it to effectively stabilize the long-bodied, streamlined projectiles. Lead-core bullets of 168 grains ranging up to 195 grains and monometal bullets of 160 grains up to 168 grains provide optimal performance in the 7mm PRC. Examples are Barnes 168-grain LRX bullet; Berger 168-grain VLD Hunting, 180-grain VLD Hunting, and 195-grain Extreme Outer Limits Elite Hunter; and Hornady 160-grain CX, 175-grain ELD-X, 180-grain ELD Match and 190-grain A-Tip.

The 7mm PRC has a cartridge case design characteristic that affects handloading technique, particularly projectile seating. Like its 6.5 PRC and .300 PRC siblings, the 7mm PRC is engineered with a lot of head height. This allows long bullets with stretched-out, fine-entry noses to be seated well out of the case, so the bases don’t intrude into the powder reservoir. This is important, as you’ll see in a moment.

The parent case is the .375 Ruger, which is a non-belted case with quite parallel sides and relatively steep 30-degree shoulder angle. It’s actually a quarter-inch shorter than the classic 7mm Rem. Mag. and has less capacity when filled to the case mouth. The 7mm PRC case contains 82 grains of water; the 7mm Rem. Mag. contains 85 grains of water.

However, since you don’t have to seat long, heavy-for-caliber bullets deeply into the powder reservoir, loaded 7mm PRC cartridges actually have greater internal capacity than 7mm Rem. Mag. cartridges.

Overall 7mm PRC case length is 2.280 inches. Trim-to length is 2.260 inches. Overall maximum loaded cartridge length is 3.340 inches. This puts the 7mm PRC into the “standard .30-06” cartridge length category. As with every cartridge, if desired, handloaders may load to longer max length if their rifle’s magazines will allow it. SAAMI pressure limit is 65,000 psi.

Currently, cartridge cases are available only from Hornady. That’s not a problem, because the Hornady cases I’ve used in my testing and handloading and hunting with the 7mm PRC have been stellar.

If you want to milk every ounce of potential out of the 7mm PRC and your Hornady cases, trim them all to equal length, then weight-sort and neck turn them. You’ll end up with top-notch cases equal to any task.

My reloading dies are standard Hornady versions, and they’ve served very well. Presumably, other manufacturers such as RCBS and Redding will soon get on board, and we may see match-grade dies as well.

As nearly all propellant charges will be well north of the 60-grain threshhold compatibility with Large Rifle primers, it’s best to use Large Rifle Magnum primers. I’ve been using Federal 215 Gold Medal Match primers, and they’ve provided splendid consistency.

Data for the 7mm PRC are currently available on the Hornady reloading app. I developed the loads in the accompanying chart from early recommendations by Hornady technicians based on their lab work. They suggested Reloder 26 and H1000, with RL-26 being particularly magic.

However, at first I didn’t have any RL-26 on hand, so I started with H1000. To my delight, every load averaged less than three-quarters of an inch at 100 yards. Even with the relatively short 20-inch barrel on the Gunwerks Nexus test rifle, velocity was rather good.

Accuracy with Hornady’s 180-grain ELD Match bullets was eyebrow-raising, averaging 0.42 inch over a series of three-shot groups. This bullet has an incredibly good ballistic G1 coefficient of .796, and Hornady’s factory ammo is spec’d to generate about 2,950 fps in 26-inch barrels. That makes it one of the most capable extreme-range cartridges on the market.

Thanks to the 7mm PRC’s head height, handloaders will find it easy to finesse seating depth for best accuracy. Load thin-jacketed cup-and-core bullets to kiss the rifling. Load thick-jacketed bonded-core and monometal bullets 0.050 inch off the rifling leade so as to avoid pressure spikes, and tune from there. Generally, best results with such will be found between 0.020 and 0.100 inch off the leade.

As with all bottlenecked, centerfire cartridges fed from box magazines, there’s no need to crimp seated bullets. Just allow the neck tension to hold them in place.

For Idaho’s 2022 spring bear season, I loaded up a batch of 7mm PRC ammo using 150-grain Hornady CX bullets. My wife and two daughters proceeded to clobber three black bears with the 7mm PRC.

A few months later, the 160-grain CX was launched. My first try at working up a handload resulted in a load under half m.o.a., courtesy of RL-26. Clearly, the 7mm PRC is a well-behaved, inherently accurate cartridge that’s easy to handload for splendid results.

I haven’t yet experimented with a broad variety of projectiles by manufacturers other than Hornady. However, I’m looking forward to doing so.

Candidly, before learning the details of the 7mm PRC, I was a deep skeptic. I didn’t believe we had any use for another 7mm Magnum. After handloading and shooting and hunting with it, I’m a convert.

I experienced a powerful testimony of the cartridge’s right to exist at the SAAM shooting facility in Texas. Using a Remington 700 chambered in 7mm PRC, I shot steel targets all the way out to a mile. Then I put five consecutive 180-grain ELD Match bullets onto a 24×48-inch steel plate at 1,800 yards. I became a believer.

I now consider it the best 7mm magnum ever designed, and tuned handloads take it from splendid to spectacular.

WARNING: The loads shown here are safe only in the guns for which they were developed. Neither the author nor Outdoor Sportsman Group assumes any liability for accidents or injury resulting from the use or misuse of this data. Shooting reloads may void any warranty on your firearm.

Reading Time: 8 minutes

We’ve all been there. You get ready for a perfect day of fishing, pick your best lures and your favorite rod, only to sit out on the boat watching your line idle without a single bite. “What did I do wrong?” you ask yourself. A painful question pretty much every single angler has asked at some point. Well, we’ve got some good news and bad news for you: It wasn’t really your fault. But in a way, it was. Why did you strike out? The answer, more often than not, lies in how the weather affects fishing. And today, you’re going to learn all there is to know about it.

To understand exactly how the weather affects fish, we’ll first take a look at the individual weather factors that influence the way fish behave. We’ll then explore how these factors make fish tick (or tock). Last but not least, we’ll talk about the best weather conditions for fishing, as well as what you can do to make the most out of your outing.

By the time you’ve read this article, you’ll not only have a few geeky facts to tell your friends, you’ll also know some tricks to help you round the day off with a full cooler.

The weather can affect fishing in a number of ways. A few naturally-occurring elements are key influencers on the way fish behave. These are:

• Water temperature
• Wind
• Barometric pressure

Water Temperature

Most fish species are cold-blooded, and can’t regulate their body temperature. This means that they’re forced to adjust their metabolisms to the temperature of the water around them. In colder waters, fish tend to slow down, and generally need less food to support themselves. In warmer waters, they are much more active, and as a result, need significantly more food to survive.

But that’s not the only way water temperatures affect fish. In order to breathe, fish rely on their gills to extract dissolved oxygen from the water. It so happens that the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water depends almost exclusively on the surrounding temperature. As a rule of thumb, colder waters have more dissolved oxygen, and warmer waters have less.

So, what’s the big deal? Simply put, each fish species has a minimum water temperature under which it won’t feed, and a maximum water temperature over which it can’t breathe. As a fisherman, you obviously don’t need to know the exact numbers. However, knowing why and when water temperatures change can make all the difference when trying to catch fish.

How does the weather influence water temperatures?

Water temperature can change in a number of ways. There are slow, seasonal changes, which are mainly influenced by the amount of sunlight a body of water receives over an extended period of time. These changes don’t have a tremendous impact on water temperature in the short term.

Even if you’re fishing a small pond, a passing cloud won’t realistically change the temperature by a significant amount. What can drastically change the water temperature, however, is rainfall.

When it rains, fresh water pours into a body of water, changing its temperature. This change can happen quickly, especially if we’re talking about a small body of water. In addition, rainfall changes the turbidity (clarity) of the water, as well as the salinity of saltwater. Lastly, rain can often shoot large quantities of nutrients into the water. When all these changes occur at the same time, they can significantly change the way resident fish behave.

Wind

In North America, winds generally blow in a northeast direction. This happens for two reasons: first, the Earth’s rotation, and second, the jet stream. During the summer, the jet stream shifts to the north, pulling warm gusts of low-pressure air from the southwest with it. This is why we have those warm summer winds. During fall and winter, the jet stream shifts to the south, bringing cold fronts and high-pressure air masses from the north.

When masses of cold and warm air mix, storms start to brew. But more on this in a bit.

Winds can influence water bodies and their residents in several ways. The most obvious one, of course, is by making waves. As winds blows along the surface of the water, it creates friction. The stronger the wind blows, the greater the friction, and the greater the waves.

Waves can increase the turbidity of the water, pulling currents and nutrients along with them. All of these factors influence the way fish will behave. Last but not least, winds cause changes in barometric pressure.

Barometric Pressure

If there’s one thing that can bring about a feeding frenzy in fish, it’s a change in barometric pressure. Sudden weather changes produce rapid shifts in barometric pressure, and this is precisely why these are the best moments to wet your line.

What is barometric pressure?

Barometric pressure, or atmospheric pressure, is the force exerted by the Earth’s atmosphere on a given area. Think of it as “the weight of the air.” Barometric pressure is measured in several ways: inches of mercury (in-Hg), millibars (mb), or pounds per square inch (psi). In the US, we mostly use inches Hg. At sea level, barometric pressure of 29.92 inches is “normal.” Anything above that is considered high, and anything below that, low.

Again, you don’t need to focus on absolute numbers, because fish aren’t paying much attention either. What you should make note of is that just as the atmosphere pushes down on Earth’s surface, it does the same to its many bodies of water. These waters, in turn, push on the fish that live there.

Why does barometric pressure affect fish?

To survive in water, fish had to develop a series of physical adaptations. When it comes barometric pressure and fish behavior, two of these adaptations are key. These are the lateral line and the swim bladder.

The lateral line is an organ fish use to navigate and sense the presence of predators or food. It senses the tiniest of reverberations in the water, and as such, it is very sensitive to pressure changes.

The swim bladder, on the other hand, is an organ similar to the stomach, which can inflate with air and allows the fish to achieve buoyancy. As the air pressure changes, so does the pressure on a fish’s swim bladder. It’s something like a natural barometer.

Fish species like Trout, Grouper, Snapper, and Tarpon have larger swim bladders, and are more sensitive to changes in air pressure. On the other hand, species with smaller bladders like Mahi Mahi, Barracuda, Wahoo, and Kingfish are much less affected. And then there are species like Sharks and various types of Tuna that don’t have this organ at all.

Barometric Pressure and Fishing

Alright, air pressure affects fish, we understand. But exactly when and how does this happen? It’s a well-known fact that rising barometric pressure means improving weather and clear skies. Conversely, dropping barometric pressure means that a storm or a cold front is on its way.

Fishing before and after a Storm

As a storm approaches, a mass of warm, low-pressure air gathers above a mass of cold, high-pressure air. When the two air masses meet, they start creating condensation in the form of clouds. During this time, a noticeable, steady drop in air pressure occurs. The pressure continues to drop until the very end of the storm.

Depending on the scale of the storm, this can happen very quickly, or over an extended period of time. For you, the latter is a much better option, as it gives you more time to fish while the pressure is dropping.

What follows the storm is typically a cold front, bringing winds, and a mass of cold, high-pressure air. The cold front often clears the skies, and more importantly, brings about a rapid rise in air pressure. In most cases, this means that fishing is a no-go.

Once the air pressure reaches a high point, it finally stabilizes. There’s no set rule on how long this can take, as it usually depends on the storm that just passed. Fish are mostly inactive after the atmospheric pressure levels out. However, around 72 hours into this period of steady barometric pressure, the fish start coming out again.

Interestingly, fish seem to be much keener on biting than before the weather change started. Some anglers speculate that this is because there was no fishing for several days, and fish have “forgotten” about the hooks and lures they normally avoid. A more realistic cause for the increased bite, however, seems to be that the fish haven’t fed in a while.

Fishing Tactics for Changing Weather

All of the weather factors we mentioned are very closely connected, meaning that one doesn’t change without the other. To make the perfect fishing tactic, you’re going to need to be mindful of them all.

Timing

Summarizing what we talked about above, fish react to changes in barometric pressure in the following way:

• Rapid drops in pressure: changes of more than 0.18 inches Hg in 3 hours, the bite is great
• Rapid rise in pressure: the fish retreat, the bite is non-existent
• Stable pressure: after 3 days of pressure not changing by more than 0.3 inches Hg, the bite is good again

Nowadays, there are plenty of barometer-equipped fishing apps which you can use to track and plan your outings.

Temperature and Turbidity

In colder weather, fish are sluggish, so your lure/bait presentation should be slow-moving as well. Of course, the contrary is true for warmer conditions.

As we mentioned, wind and rainfall can make waters more turbid than normal. Turbidity can drastically limit visibility underwater, and in turn, change the way fish behave. For the most part, fish are sight hunters. When they can’t see, they’ll rely more on their lateral line to find prey. This is where fast action lures can come in handy. The flutter these lures make is the perfect attention-grabber in such situations.

Still, if you’re fishing cold waters, the fish might not be as easily lured to move (no pun intended). In these situations, you’ll need to rely on brightly colored lures to get them to bite. Reds, yellows, and greens can all produce results. In muddy waters, however, red-colored lures tend to lose their visibility. If this is the case, your best bet is to stick to bright yellow and green presentations.

If the seas are rough, chances are that fish have retreated to deeper waters. If you’re determined to fish in these conditions, make sure you’ve chosen the right kind of boat.

Enjoy Responsibly

Fishing ahead of an upcoming storm can produce incredible results. There are countless stories of fishermen cashing in on the feeding frenzy while other anglers are stuck on the highway trying to get home.

Still, as much as it would be cool to be the star of “Twister 2.0,” no fish is worth losing your head over. Read the weather and fishing reports carefully, and give yourself a time cushion to leave the area in case you get held up.

Get things right, however, and you could be looking at catching the fish of a lifetime! So there you have it. That covers everything you need to know about how weather affects fishing.

If you need more information on how to go about fishing for the first time, visit our Fishing Tips for Beginners blog.

What are your tactics for fishing in bad weather? Did you ever fish ahead of a coming storm? Are there some weather-related fishing tips we forgot to mention? Let us know in the comments below.

There are a lot of reasons we hunt. Some people just love spending more time outdoors. Some like the adventure of chasing a wild animal. But come on, is there anything better than sitting around a table and sharing a wild game meal with your family and friends? Especially one that you or your child were able to harvest? It’s really something special. If you want to make it even more unique, try processing your deer yourself. That way, you know how the meat is handled from the field to the table and can make decisions on what kinds of meals you’ll prepare from it. Ground venison is always a staple for many hunters, but because deer meat is so lean, some get tripped up on the fat ratio for venison burgers. There are a few ways you can look at this, so let’s dive into the topic of venison burgers. In the video below, Michael walks you through his process of grinding deer burgers and why he loves to do this himself.

Right Fat Ratio for Venison Burgers

First off, as many hunters know, deer meat is darn close to fat-free. When you grind it alone, it produces a very lean mixture that could be too crumbly to stick together well. If you’re looking for ground venison to do chili or spaghetti with, that might be exactly what you’re looking for. It will be lean meat that crumbles nicely. But if you want to grill venison burgers, you’re going to need to add some fat.

Beef fat is the preferred source when making deer burgers. It adds some great flavor (especially if you add some trimmed ribeye fat), but it also helps bind the meat together better and helps it hold in the patty shape. You can usually find beef fat from your local butcher or the meat counter at the grocery store, so try asking around. In the finished ground meat, you’re looking for those chunks of white gold.

In terms of the right fat ratio for venison burgers, it’s a little subjective, but we have a general rule. Typically, we’ll mix in about 2 pounds of beef fat for 10 pounds of venison (12 pounds total). This comes out to about an 83/16 meat/fat mix. Now some people prefer their burgers to be fattier and juicier, so they might mix 2 pounds of fat to 8 pounds of venison. On the other hand, if you find the mix is too rich for you, you can scale the fat amount back a bit or add more meat. Play around with the fat ratio for venison burgers until you find something you really enjoy…and then write it down so you know how to repeat it the next time.

Process to Grind Deer Burgers

Obviously, this whole process starts with the right meat. Everyone seems a little different in their preferences when it comes to what meat goes in the grind pile, and it can be a hotly debated subject at deer camp. Some hunters trim every grind piece as if it were a pristine steak cut, while others just throw in ALL the extra bits – silver skin, sinew, and everything included. The bottom line is that the cleaner the meat is from all the connective tissue, the smoother it will grind, and the better texture it will have in the end. Does it have to be perfect? That depends on you, but try to clean it up fairly well.

Again, if you like a really lean grind and want to try to make some venison patties, you don’t need to add any beef fat. But you’ll probably have to be pretty delicate with it while grilling, as it might crumble to pieces. For a richer burger that holds together better, try the fat ratio for venison burgers that we discussed above (2 pounds beef fat to 10 pounds venison).

For grinding venison burgers:

Start by grinding the venison meat with a coarse dye plate to cut the meat up into small chunks. Then switch to a fine or medium dye plate, and send the venison back through with the fat.Alternate adding the venison meat and beef fat into the grinder as you go, which will help incorporate it better.At this point, you can also get creative. Add onions, garlic, and wet or dry seasonings to the grind as you go to create your perfect venison burger.When you finish a batch, try frying or grilling up a test patty to see how it holds together and see if you need to adjust the seasoning. If something’s not quite right, you can add more meat, fat, or seasonings to fix it.

As you can see in the video, we love Meat! Your Maker products. Whether you need a durable and high-quality grinder to make these patties or you need a vacuum sealer to package them at the end, they have the right tools for the job.

Packaging Your Venison Burgers

The final step in the process is packaging everything up so you can safely store it until mealtime. You can use plastic bags or freezer paper for this, but those methods are much more likely to result in freezer-burnt meat. The best way to preserve your food – whether wild game meat, store-bought meat, fish, or even other foods – is to vacuum seal it. A good vacuum sealer will suck all the air out and seal the bag securely, which will lower the chance of freezer burn greatly.

For a typical family of four, you might package the meat in 1- or 2-pound bags, which should be enough for an average meal. Or if you know you’re going to make venison burgers out of the mixture anyway, you might as well pre-shape them into patties and freeze them. That way, you just have to unthaw and throw on the grill when the time comes. Form the patties based on the sizes your family prefers, and then stack them in layers of 2 with some wax paper separating them, or just do a single layer in a vacuum seal bag. You get to make all the calls with this, which is why it’s so fun.

If finding the right fat ratio for venison burgers has been tricky before, we hope this guide will help. But at the end of the day, it’s just a guideline. Play around with the mixture of venison vs. fat until you find something you and your family truly like. And then fire up the grill and invite some friends over to share a hot meal, a cold beverage, and a few good hunting stories.What’s the Right Fat Ratio for Venison Burgers?

Deer hunting in Maine’s vast north woods is a wilderness experience our farm country friends find truly exciting and challenging. The area surrounding North Country Lodge provides the best habitat available for monster whitetail bucks. The big ones are here, and they challenge you to the chase.

The Elusive Northern Whitetail Buck

Monster big woods bucks over 200 lb dressed weight are not uncommon. A Maine buck’s antler size can be impressive, but body weight is what Maine bucks are noted for most of all.

Northern whitetail deer are a genetically different buck than you will find at home. Bucks are naturally bred with large bodies to survive cold winters, and typically will reach an older age due to low hunting pressure. Miles and miles of woods, with very few hunters, allows these trophies to reach a maturity not often seen by our southern neighbors.

Big woods bucks often cover a large territory while searching for a hot doe, and even though they favor certain travel areas, you never know where or when you will encounter your prize. You will find hardwood ridges and fir thickets where bucks will be checking for does. Bucks will bed down in a thicket or next to a fallen tree, but just as often they will take a bed on an open slope where they can scan for movements.

Deer Population

Maine’s deer population changes yearly depending on many factors – mostly the length of winter. Northern deer can survive brutally cold temperatures, but winter survival really depends on how early green growth and buds start to appear toward spring.

When populations dipped ten to twenty years ago, we closed our lodge during November. Populations are now rebounding, and we are seeing many more deer than in past years. For this reason, and at the urging of our many hunters who have always enjoyed the lodge and hunting in the “big woods,” we are again opening the lodge for November.

The Hunt

The “woods are lovely, dark and deep” as Robert Frost wrote. Endless miles of unpaved roads and skidder trails provide unlimited access to all manner of terrain. You will be free to roam through our area’s vast spruce-fir-hardwood forest without encountering “no trespassing” signs, paved highways or even another hunter. Or you can stay close, and take a stand in a known deer crossing area.

Hunt on your own, or guides can be provided upon request. We will also provide you with maps of the area and tree stands, set up by our Professional Maine Guides, to aid you in your Whitetail Deer hunt. You are free to head out in early morning and remain out until dark – or come and go as you please. The lodge is always open.

November in Maine can bring cold temperatures, with snow from easy tracking depth to knee deep. When fresh and soft, snowy woods are silent and beautiful – perfect for silently stalking and tracking. Warm and waterproof boots and clothing are suggested. Weather can also bring 40-50 degrees at noon, with lighter clothing and layers being vital.

Cell phone service is available throughout our area, making it easy to keep in touch with your partners or to call for help when needed.

Deer Hunting Season

Maine’s firearm deer season runs for 4 weeks, typically beginning the first Monday in November. Call us for details about each season, and early opportunities for bow hunting.

Shooting time starts 30 minutes before sunrise, and ends 30 minutes after sunset. Exact time is set by the State.

Fantastic Deer Hunting Lodge

Enjoy the warm hospitality at North Country Lodge and the camaraderie of fellow hunters. We believe that comfortable accommodations, relaxation, great meals, and complete service are important parts of an enjoyable hunting experience and vital to enjoying your visit with us.

You will enjoy our beautiful lodge with its rustic atmosphere and modern conveniences such as fireplace, WIFI and maid service.

The Lodge has two large sitting rooms, complete with a large fireplace and adorned with numerous trophy mounts representing past hunts – setting the perfect stage for sharing “tall tales” about your hunts.

The Lodge has full modern conveniences, including:

• Clean attractive private sleeping rooms that accommodate from 1 to 6 persons
• Comfortable beds
• Showers
• Towels and linens
• Daily cleaning service
• Spacious and relaxing lounge areas
• WIFI
• Cell Phone Reception

Women, couples and family groups with youth hunters all find the Lodge very hospitable. Single hunters are very welcome. Call us for more information.

Firearm and archery ranges are located adjacent to the lodge for double checking and fine tuning your sights before and during your hunt.

Delicious Dining

You will enjoy dining in the Lodge’s beautiful dining room. Our kitchen staff serves the finest quality meals – All “home cooked and all you can eat” – served in a beautiful dining room.

Breakfasts are available at 5 am for those wanting to hunt early. Lunch is provided in the dining room or you may take a bag lunch for a day in the woods. Bring your thermos, and we’ll fill it with hot coffee for the trail.

Before you Choose

Be sure to compare North Country Lodge’s quality service and hunting opportunities. Ask questions. Find out why Over 75% of our hunters are return clients.

Don’t settle for less than the best.

We look forward to playing a part in your dream of bagging a “Trophy Maine Big Woods Buck”.

Deer Hunting Package

Deer hunts at North Country Lodge include:

• Deluxe accommodations in a fully equipped modern hunting lodge.
• Six Days of hunting
• Seven Nights of lodging.
• Three complete meals per day-home cooking and all you can eat.
• Daily room cleaning service.

Advice from our licensed Maine guides on where to hunt and methods to use.Registered Maine Guides available upon request

Click here for our rates

Click here to obtain a Maine Hunting License online. Licenses are also available at many locations on your way here.

North Woods Tips

Two articles of hunter orange clothing are required during deer season by Maine law. November in Maine can be very cold (20F or colder). Warm clothing and rugged boots are important. A flashlight, knife, compass, matches and fire starter are also considered a necessity for hunting Whitetail Deer in Maine. Many find their GPS and Cell phones very handy.

About North Country Lodge

When you plan your hunting trips, you expect the best, with “no surprises.” The Goodman family established North Country Lodge in 1985, always making sure that guests enjoy the very best Maine hunting experience.

Location, Location, Location

North Country Lodge is nestled among the pines, spruce and hardwood ridges in Aroostook County of northern Maine. The region comprises the largest wilderness area east of the Mississippi River. We are 11 miles north of Patten Maine, and approximately 25 miles east of Maine’s largest state park (Baxter State Park) and the Maine Woods National Monument.

For well over a century, Aroostook County has offered the finest Black Bear, Whitetail deer, and moose hunting on the North American continent.

This magnificent hunters’ paradise, with hardwood ridges, rolling hills, swamps and bogs, provide the setting for an exciting and memorable experience in the vast North Maine Woods.

Maine Guides

Our staff of hunting guides has a vast knowledge of the region and the game that resides here. All have exemplary reputations earned over the years from serving hunters and the hunting industry. Our guides are active all year, either preparing for your visit, or working diligently with outdoor organizations and wildlife biologists to protect the game and the privilege to hunt.

Numerous subgenres enrich the fantastic world of guns. Sniper rifles, assault rifles, and other types of sporting weapons fall under this category. Of course, everyone loves a good sniper rifle, so we’ve decided to spend today hunting down the most cutting-edge ones available.

What is a sniper rifle?

Most people, or at least the majority of them, believe they know exactly what a sniper rifle is. A scope does not instantly transform a firearm into a sniper rifle. Naturally, accuracy is a vital factor, but the gun must be capable and effective in tactical situations. Many very accurate guns are made solely for competition and wouldn’t hold up well in a nation that has recently experienced civil war.

These requirements frequently call for the gun to be portable or simple to handle. It should have a scope, which in the present day means that it should work with contemporary night vision equipment. Effective range is crucial, as is accuracy.

Sniper rifles should have no trouble reaching out and touching a target. At the very least, a full-powered rifle cartridge is needed for this. To enhance range and counter challenges from contemporary armor, the majority of modern sniper rifles are striving for larger, more powerful ammunition.

So what are the top sniper rifles available today?

Listed below are the top 15 sniper rifles that are employed in various vital operations. It includes a few recently approved guns that are just now becoming online. There are a few sniper rifles in it that are not widely known yet but fill an interesting need. It excludes pre-production prototypes as well as outdated, no-longer-in-use sniper rifles.

These are the current top 15 sniper rifles in the world :

McMillan TAC-50, United States

Produced by McMillan Brothers Rifles, the McMillan TAC-50 is a long-range anti-material and sniper rifle. The words “tactical” and “.50 BMG” (12.7×99 mm) are used to describe it. The 1980s saw the creation of the TAC-50. This weapon is based on earlier creations from the same manufacturer. However, the Canadian Armed Forces only began using this sniper rifle in 2000.

Elite military and law enforcement units from several nations utilize this firearm. Canada, France, Georgia, Israel, Jordan, the Philippines, South Africa, Turkey, and the United States are among the countries that employ the McMillan TAC-50. It is known as the C15 Long Range Sniper Weapon in Canadian service. The TAC-50, also known as the Mk.15, is used by U.S. Navy SEALs.

It is possible to utilize the McMillan TAC-50 as a long-range anti-material weapon. This weapon has the ability to destroy vital enemy assets, including trucks, radar systems, parked aircraft, and other sensitive equipment at a distance. Additionally, it can be used to remotely destroy explosive ordnance.

Another application for the TAC-50 is a long-range sniper rifle. At standoff range, it can neutralize opposing snipers. Due to the rifle’s powerful ammunition’s ability to pierce through brick and concrete, it can also be utilized to strike enemy soldiers who are concealed behind cover and walls.

Barrett M82A1, United States

The Barrett Firearms Manufacturing firm created and developed the semi-automatic anti-material rifle known as the Barrett M82. Early in the 1980s, work on this potent anti-material gun started. By 1982, operational versions were created; consequently, M82. It is important to note that the M82 is not a U.S. military designation but rather a business designation. In 1989, the business successfully sold 100 weapons to the Swedish Armed Forces.

The US Marine Corps acquired about 125 of these rifles in 1990-1991. Orders from the U.S. Army and Air Force soon followed. Nearly 60 nations currently utilize this anti-material rifle in their armed forces and law enforcement. This anti-material rifle is employed as a long-range anti-personnel sniper weapon in a number of nations.

This weapon was meant to be used at a distance to destroy sensitive enemy equipment, such as parked aircraft, radar systems, vehicles, and other significant assets. It is used to destroy explosive ordnance remotely. The Barrett M82 is a long-range sniper rifle, even though it was initially intended to be an anti-material rifle.

Accuracy International AS50, United Kingdom

This firearm is the British gunmaker accuracy global’s 50 BMG anti-material precision rifle, the Accuracy International AS50. It has a muzzle velocity of 800 to 900 m/s, can engage with targets at a distance of 1,800 m, and is fed by 5 or 10 spherical detachable field journals.

Users can engage with targets at extremely great distances with high accuracy utilizing explosive or incendiary bullets thanks to the rifle’s 1.5 moa accuracy and the as50. As opposed to the aw50 bolt action rifle, the as50 has a gas-operated semi-automatic motion with a muzzle brake, which results in reduced recoil and quicker target acquisition. The weapon is lightweight, ergonomic, and incredibly portable. Without using any tools, it can be disassembled in under three minutes and fixed.

Accuracy International AWM, United Kingdom

The above-shown British sniper rifle is called the Arctic Warfare Magnum (AWM) which is the creation of the business Accuracy International. It is a more potent variation of the Arctic Warfare sniper rifle that is made to work with more potent and substantial Magnum-type rounds. The designation’s use of the word “Magnum” refers to the Magnum chambering. This weapon comes in two major variations; each chambered for the.300 Winchester Magnum and.338 Lapua Magnum rounds.

In 1996, this weapon was adopted. A .300 Winchester Magnum-caliber variant is in use with the Czech Republic, Germany (known as the G22 regionally), and a few other nations. At least 14 nations, including Ireland, Israel, Italy, Malaysia, the Netherlands, Norway, South Korea, and the United Kingdom, have adopted a different version that is chambered for the.338 Lapua Magnum. This sniper weapon was used in battles in Afghanistan and Iraq.

It is a sniper rifle with a bolt mechanism. The Arctic Warfare Magnum is essentially the same as the original Arctic Warfare sniper rifle, with the addition of a longer bolt to accommodate the heavier and more potent Magnum-type ammunition. This weapon features a 660 mm (26″) stainless steel barrel. It is fueled by removable 5-round magazines.

Dragunov SVD, Soviet Union

The SVD, the premier sniper rifle of the Soviet Union and its allies, must be included on any list of the best sniper rifles. The oldest rifle on this list, it was created by Yevgeny Dragunov in the late 1950s and entered service in 1963.

Although the SVD’s controls resemble those of an AK-47/74, it is not a derivative of the A.K. Similar to the A.K.; however, the SVD has been created by numerous nations in a variety of forms, making it challenging to keep track of them all, let alone summarise the platform in a little piece like this. Yet we’ll give it a shot.

The cartridge the SVD employs is the 7.6254 Rimmed, which isn’t well known by most American shooters and hunters but has achieved legendary status among military and sniper nerds due to its ranking as one of the top two or three most lethal sniper cartridges in history and deserving of the top spot, in some people’s opinions. The second-oldest cartridge still in use by the military is this one.

M24, United States

The M24 SWS (Sniper Weapon System), which is based on the Remington Model 700 rifle, is the main sniper rifle used by the U.S. Army. It was initially deployed in 1988 after being designed in the 1980s to replace the Springfield Armory M21. The M24 was essentially the first firearm created specifically for sniping by the Army.

It is classified as a “weapon system” as opposed to just a weapon because it comes with a removable telescopic sight and a number of other equipment and accessories in a single box. Additionally, the U.S. Air Force uses it.

The M24 is a bolt action rifle that can contain either 5 or 10 rounds in its detachable box magazine, depending on the variant. Either a Leupold Mk 4 LR/T M3 1040 mm fixed power scope or a Leupold Ultra M3A 1042 mm fixed power can be tapped into it. Additionally, iron sights are installed as a backup for the scope.

Sako TRG 42, Finland

The SAKO TRG 42 is a long-range sniper rifle made in Finland. One of the best sniper rifles in the entire world, in fact. It is a production-level upgrade of the prior SAKO TRG 41. A redesigned stock design is one of the TRG 42’s advantages over the TRG 41. Additionally, this weapon is capable of firing cartridges up to 95 mm in length, which are more potent.

The preceding TRG 41 was superseded in production in 1999 by the SAKO TGR 42. At least 14 nations from around the world, including the Finnish Defense Forces, use this sniper rifle in combat. Army troops and special forces are the principal users. There are also some users in law enforcement.

CheyTac M200 Intervention, United States

The longest-range sniper rifle in the world is the CheyTac M200 Intervention. It has an amazing two 122 m range and holds the world record for the best group of three bullets. This weapon has an 1830 m effective range. One of the best sniper rifles ever made is the Intervention. But for some reason, the military ignores this.

Why aren’t more of these weapons being produced if they are so good? Only a few elite groups, like the British SAS, Polish GROM, Italian, Singaporean, and Turkish special forces, employ the Intervention rifle. According to certain publications, this weapon is also used by the U.S. Navy SEALs. Although it performs well, this weapon is not very well known. The CheyTac M200 Intervention’s extreme range may not be necessary for most tactical circumstances, which is maybe the key factor.

Desert Tech SRS A2, United States

The small Desert Tech SRS A2 offers a lot of adaptabilities. Depending on the needs of the shooter, it is a switch-barrel platform that can accommodate both short- and long-action cartridges. Its modular construction makes it simple to adapt the gun to different needs.

Although it isn’t as popular as some of the other sniper rifles on this list, many militaries throughout the world use it, and both domestic and foreign law enforcement agencies have adopted it.

The following are some of the rifle’s highlights:

• Intelligent design for a bullpup’s body
• Easily interchangeable barrels and cartridges
• Superb accuracy and a smooth trigger, especially for a bullpup.

Some may find the last point to be the most important. The Desert Tech SRS A2 is an excellent choice for target shooters who shoot for fun. The SRS can be customized for long-range shooting, predator control, and suburban hunting using subsonic ammunition or general hunting, provided the shooter is willing to put up with the rifle’s weight.

Barrett MRAD, United States

Both the U.S. Army and Marine Corps had great success with the Barrett MRAD. The SOCOM Precision Sniper Rifle program was the original inspiration for the MRAD or Multi-role Adaptive Design. Sniper rifles are Barretts’ bread and butter; therefore, the company has always been game to try new things in terms of design and functionality.

The MRAD has many impressive features, but its ability to quickly change calibers is what really sets it apart. Changing calibers requires the removal of two Torx screws, a new bolt face, and perhaps a new magazine. Every barrel features a bolt face that is factory headspaced, eliminating a significant issue with quick caliber changes.

Steyr SSG 69, Austria

The Austrian sniper rifle was known as the Steyr Scharfschutzengewehr 69 (or SSG 69 for short). Outwardly, it looks like a hunting rifle, although it was actually developed to be a military and police weapon. The Austrian Army has been hunting for a cutting-edge sniper rifle since the 1960s.

The Austrian Army officially accepted the Steyr-designed rifle as its regular sniper weapon in 1969, hence the name. After Steyr-Daimler-Puch was divided, the firearms division became a separate entity. This sniper rifle was manufactured by Steyr Mannlicher from 1987 to 1989.

At some point, this weapon became famous for its remarkable accuracy and was adopted by a number of governments from all over the world. The SSG 69 is widely regarded as one of the best sniper rifles available today. Argentina, Chile, Greece, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Jordan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Peru, Saudi Arabia, and Turkey are some of the export-operating countries in the world.

US BORTAC border patrol agents also utilize this sniper weapon. Many military engagements and wars were fought using this weapon. There were no updates to the SSG 69 in almost 40 years of production. Only in 2015 did they stop making it. The SSG 08, a modern sniper rifle, eventually replaced it.

Knight’s SR-25, United States

Knight’s Armory is a legendary manufacturer that has supplied some of our finest soldiers with cutting-edge firearms. Their rail designs are used by nearly all military systems, and they have supplied Special Operations personnel with weapons and suppressors for years. The SR-25 was a major improvement upon the AR-10 platform.

The Stoner Rifle, a 7.62 NATO AR, was developed by Eugene Stoner in collaboration with Knight’s Armory. Since then, some of the world’s finest troops have relied on this gas-operated, semi-automatic, direct-impact weapon. The SR-25 was one of the first semi-automatic sniper rifles to prove its worth during a time when the bolt action sniper rifle was king.

The SR-25 was updated to reflect new developments in warfare. When adopted by the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps, it was given the designation “Mk11” by SOCOM. The Mk11 saw active duty with multiple sniper units until 2017 and showed its mettle in the War on Terror.

M40, United States

The US Marine Corps uses the M40 rifle, a bolt-action sniper weapon. The M40, M40A1, M40A3, and M40A5 are its four variations. In 1966, the M40 was first released. The A1 model transition was finished in the 1970s, the A3 model in the 2000s, and the A5 model in 2009.

At Marine Corps Base Quantico, USMC armorers modify Remington Model 700 bolt-action rifles to create the M40s, which are then assembled using parts from a variety of sources. As A1s rotate into the armory for maintenance and repair, they are upgraded to A3s and A5s while new M40A5s are being constructed.

Numerous telescopic sight variations and smaller user modifications have been made to the guns. The M40A5 has a threaded barrel that can be used with a sound suppressor or similar muzzle device and a detachable magazine. The first M40 was a factory-made, one-piece wooden stock, military-type-classified variant of the Remington 700.

B&T USA 300SPR ProFN SCAR Mk 20 SSR, Belgium

The SCAR family of rifles from F.N. has undergone various modifications to provide special operation soldiers with a platform that can do it all. The civilian version of the M.K. 20 SSR is known as the SCAR 20S. The M.K. 20 SSR, or sniper support weapon, is a semi-automatic, short-stroke gas piston rifle that uses the 7.62 NATO cartridge, which is America’s preferred round. The 6.5 Creedmoor is another alternative for shooters in the general public.

Even though F.N.’s SCAR series was already quite accurate, they went above and above with the SSR to make sure it offered top-tier accuracy for a semi-auto rifle. The full-length monolithic upper receiver of the 20S model SCAR enables snipers to add a variety of lenses. This covers optical systems for both day and night, laser aiming tools, and more.

Although the M.K. 20 SSR doesn’t have the greatest range, it does have accurate, quick-fire capabilities for close-to-moderate range precision. Fortunately, F.N. produced a civilian version of the weapon that is identical to the military version.

Sig SSG 3000, Germany

This sniper rifle is the SIG Scharfschutzengewehr 3000, also known as SSG 3000. Despite having the appearance of a hunting rifle, this weapon is designed for use in conflict. This sniper rifle was created specifically for use by the military and police enforcement. Germany was the location of this sniper rifle’s manufacturing.

In both Europe and the U.S., law enforcement agencies frequently employ the SSG 3000. Numerous special forces groups and military organizations from around the world also use it. There is no longer a supply of the SSG 3000 sniper rifle.

The SSG 3000 is a bolt-action gun that can fire 7.62×51 mm (.308 Winchester) NATO bullets. The barrel length for this sniper rifle is either 457 mm (18″) or 597 mm (23.5″). A new stock caused the SSG 3000’s appearance to vary over the course of manufacture.

The stock has a comparable design, despite some little modifications in the upgraded model. The sniper weapon in question was built to survive rigorous use. This weapon gained notoriety for its superior quality, longevity, and accuracy.

It was intended for the SSG 3000 to be a modular weapon. In a few minutes, the barrel can be quickly changed. This sniper rifle may be quickly changed to fire the .260 Remington cartridge using the SIG conversion kit. Although loaded at higher pressures, the.260 Remington is based on the.308 Winchester cartridge.

Ground squirrels can damage many food-bearing and ornamental plants. They will enter gardens and devour vegetables in the seedling stage, gnaw on plastic sprinkler heads and irrigation lines, eat the eggs of ground-nesting birds and can be quite destructive. This humane DIY squirrel trap can help you eliminate those pesky little varmints!

Step 1: Gather the required materials and tools.

– Three pieces of PVC plastic drain pipe, 4 inch diameter, 2 feet long each (total of 6 feet)- One PVC 45 degree elbow, 4 inch diameter- One PVC clean out plug, 4 inch diameter- One PVC adapter fitting, 4 inch diameter (threaded on one end for the clean out plug above)- One PVC coupling fitting, 4 inch diameter- One PVC pipe cap, 4 inch diameter- Two machine screws, zinc or stainless steel, 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long- Four nuts to match the screws above- Two washers to match the screws above- Two wing nuts to match the screws above- One adjustable 2 foot bungee cord- One can of spray cooking oil- One small jar of peanut butter

Tools:- Power drill with 1/4 inch bit

Step 2: Drill holes in pipe.

Using the power drill, drill multiple 1/4 inch diameter holes in one of the 2 foot long pieces of PVC pipe. Do not drill holes in the last 6 inches of each end of the pipe. This pipe will be the BASE of the trap.

Select a different 2 foot long piece of PVC pipe. Drill two 1/4 inch diameter holes approximately 2 inches from one end of the pipe.

The holes should be directly across from each other on opposite sides of the pipe. This pipe will be the TOP of the trap and the end with the two holes will point up, when assembling the final trap.

Step 3: Assemble the trap base

Attach the PVC adapter fitting to one end of the BASE pipe and carefully screw the clean out plug into the threaded section of the adapter fitting.

Attach the PVC 45 degree elbow to the other end of the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach any of the PVC pipes or fittings.)

Step 4: Assemble the top of the squirrel trap

On the end of the TOP pipe with the two holes, reach inside the pipe and push one machine screw through each of the holes.

The head of each screw should be inside the pipe with the threaded part outside of the pipe. On the outside of the pipe, place a washer on each of the screws, screw two nuts on each screw, and screw one wing nut on each screw.

Attach the PVC coupling fitting to the end of the TOP pipe without the holes. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)

Step 5: Assemble and bait the trap

The remaining pipe is the MIDDLE of the trap. Insert one end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC coupling fitting on the TOP pipe.

Insert the other end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC 45 degree elbow on the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)

The fully assembled trap will look like a big hockey stick.

Spray a light coating of cooking oil on the inside of the TOP and MIDDLE pipes. This will keep the squirrels from escaping when trapped.

Using your fingers or a long spoon, smear peanut butter on the inside of the TOP pipe about 8-10 inches from the open end of the pipe. The peanut butter is the bait. You can also place peanuts or something similar in the BASE pipe, if you wish.

Step 6: Select a location and place the trap.

Look for a sturdy tree in an area with squirrels. Be sure you can easily see and get to the base of the tree trunk. Place the trap next to the tree with the BASE on the ground and the TOP touching the tree trunk.

Secure the TOP to the tree trunk with the bungee cord.

You can also place bricks or rocks around the BASE to help keep it in from moving.

Step 7: Catch some squirrels.

Wait for a squirrel to sniff out the bait and slide down into the BASE.

Once you have one trapped, it’s up to you as to what to do with the squirrel.

If you choose to relocate the squirrel, place the pipe cap on the open end of the trap before moving the squirrel to its new home.

NOTE: You may wish to vary the length or diameter of the plastic pipe depending on the size of your squirrels or available materials. I chose to use schedule 40, foam core DWV (drain, waste, and vent) pipe because it will stand up to periodic bumps and drops without much problem. Materials for the 4 inch diameter trap cost about $50.

About the author:

James Hammond is a disabled veteran and has done landscaping and home renovation projects for over 25 years.