Hunters and shooters across North America love their 30-caliber cartridges. With the popularization of the 30-06 Springfield, the .308” diameter bullet became synonymous with stopping power and long range precision.

However, hunters and shooters wanted more power, muzzle velocity, and a flatter trajectory – and so, the magnum craze began.

Two extremely popular 30-caliber magnum cartridges are the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge). The 300 PRC is a relatively new cartridge as it was released in 2018 while the 300 Win Mag was released in 1962. Both are capable of sub-MOA level accuracy at extreme long range and can take down elk and moose at well over 500 yards.

Although the 300 PRC has been optimized for use with heavier bullets with a high ballistic coefficient, the 300 Win Mag will be more than sufficient for most shooters.

Is it worth it to get a new rifle in 300 PRC? What advantages does it bring to the table?

In this article, we will examine both rifle cartridges to help you determine which will best fit your shooting needs.

What’s the Difference Between 300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag?

The 300 Winchester Magnum was developed in 1962 using a 375 H&H Magnum belted case necked down to accept a 30-caliber bullet. It was designed to fit inside a long action rifle and maintain supersonic flight well past 1,000 yards. At the time, the use of long, aerodynamic, heavier 30-caliber bullets was not something shooters were looking for, as most hunters didn’t really care about ballistic coefficient and were more concerned with penetration and stopping power.

In 2018, the ballistics team at Hornady looked to create a highly optimized 30-caliber magnum cartridge that could utilize longer bullets that were ideal for extreme long range (ELR) shooting. Hornady built the 300 PRC from the ground up, creating the ideal precision rifle cartridge to compete with the 338 Lapua Magnum with considerably lower recoil.

Both the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC can shoot past 1,000 yards and maintain accuracy. However, the 300 PRC will be better suited for shooting out past 1,500 yards and out to 2,000. This caught the eye of the Department of Defense (DoD) in 2019 and they ordered an undisclosed number of Barret MRAD rifles chambered in 300 PRC for their Advanced Sniper Rifle course.

The ELR accuracy that the 300 PRC offers are only matched by the 300 Norma Magnum, 30 Nosler, and 338 Lapua at this point. Does that mean you need to run out and get a new rifle or rebarrel your 300 Win Mag for 300 PRC?

Probably not.

For most target shooters or hunters, the 300 Win Mag will be more than sufficient to fell any game or punch out the 10-ring that dare enter their crosshairs.

However, if you shoot F-Class and/or T-Class competitions, the 300 PRC might give you an edge over some of your competition using a 338 Lapua or a different 30-caliber magnum cartridge.

In the following sections, we will break down the advantages and disadvantages of the 300 PRC and the 300 Winchester Magnum so you can understand the benefits and limits of each precision rifle cartridge.

Cartridge Specs

When evaluating a precision rifle cartridge, it’s a good idea to analyze the cartridge specs to gain more knowledge of each.

The first thing to notice is that both rifle cartridges have the same base diameter, 0.532”. This means that they both utilize a magnum bolt face. So, if you ever wanted to do a conversion, a simple barrel swap is all that would be required.

The next similarity to notice is the case length and the cartridge capacity, as both the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag are virtually identical in these two categories.

However, the main difference that you’ll note is the massive difference in overall length. The 3.34” overall length for the 300 Win Mag allows it to be loaded in a long action rifle, whereas the 3.7” overall length of the 300 PRC requires a magnum action rifle.

Hornady specifically designed the 300 PRC for the magnum action as they wanted their cartridge to have as long a “head height” as possible. Head height is simply the overall length minus the case length. A longer head height allows for longer, more aerodynamic projectiles with a higher ballistic coefficient (BC) to be used. A high BC is preferred when shooting long range and the 1.12” head height of the 300 PRC allows for this. In contrast, the 300 Win Mag has a head height of 0.72”.

The additional head height for the 300 PRC translates to more room outside the case for longer bullets than the 300 Win Mag can accommodate. Furthermore, the 300 PRC can fire these longer, slender, higher BC bullets without disrupting the powder column inside the cartridge case. In contrast, similar bullets fired in a 300 Win Mag would intrude on the powder column or contact the rifling upon chambering the round.

But does having an unobstructed powder column inside the case really matter? For long range precision shooting, yes it does.

An unobstructed powder column will have an extremely consistent burn, whereas a compressed powder charge or having a bullet seated in the middle of it will change the dynamics of the powder burn. For precision shooters, consistency is the key to accuracy.

With so many variables going into shots over 1,000 yards, shooters need to eliminate as many variables as possible. A consistent powder burn will mean a smooth pressure curve and low standard deviation in muzzle velocity. A compressed powder column or one that is obstructed by a bullet adds new variables into the equation, and inconsistencies can be seen in the point of impact downrange for these loads.

This difference showcases the disparity in design concept between the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag. The 300 PRC was designed form the ground up to be a highly precise and consistent long range shooting cartridge. On the other hand, the 300 Win Mag was designed first as a big game hunting cartridge and was adopted as a long range competitor later in its life.

Although the 300 PRC has clearly been optimized for long range efficiency, those benefits come at the cost of added recoil.

Recoil

Recoil is the energy directed towards the shooter when a cartridge is fired from a firearm. It is dependent on several factors, but firearm weight, powder charge, and bullet weight are three of the primary factors that affect felt recoil.

Many competitive shooters and big game hunters will not be concerned with recoil as any shooter can adapt to it with proper training and a concrete focus on the fundamentals of marksmanship.

However, for most shooters recoil will be a serious issue that they need to consider, as developing recoil anticipation is extremely detrimental to downrange accuracy.

For the purpose of this example, we will consider the Weatherby Vanguard hunting rifle weighting in at 7.5 lbs.

The chosen bullets and loadings will be the 300 Win Mag 200 gr Hornady ELD-X bullet being fired at 2850 FPS and the Hornady Precision Hunter 212-grain ELD-X traveling at 2875 FPS for the 300 PRC. This is about as close to an apples-to-apples comparison for both rifle cartridges. With these parameters, the felt recoil for 300 PRC will be 42 ft-lbs compared to 37 ft-lbs for 300 Win Mag. This translates to about a 13% difference.

The 300 Win Mag is already considered to have rather stout recoil, so this increase is something to consider when looking to add a 300 PRC to your collection. Although we are not in shoulder bruising 338 Lapua territory, neither cartridge is a slouch when it comes to recoil.

Barrel Life

For precision shooters who demand the pinnacle of accuracy and consistency from their rifles, barrel life is something these marksmen will track meticulously. The largest factor that affects barrel life is the powder charge of the ammo being fired.

A higher powder charge will typically reduce barrel life.

Cartridges like the 300 Norma Magnum or the 300 Remington Ultra Magnum are often referred to as “barrel burners” as their 95+ grain powder charges are notorious for being hard on barrels. These heavy powder charges will quickly erode the rifling at the throat of the barrel, reducing downrange accuracy.

Hornady had this in mind when the developed the 300 PRC, as they did not want the cartridge burning out barrels quickly.

The general rule for the 300 Win Mag is that a barrel will maintain peak accuracy for somewhere between 2500 to 2000 rounds.

Barrel life data on the 300 PRC is a more difficult to come by as it is a newer cartridge, however 2000 rounds seem to be the current consensus in the long range shooting community.

Trajectory

Trajectory is how we quantify a bullet’s flight path as it travels downrange measured in inches of bullet drop.

Both the 300 Win Mag and 300 PRC have very flat trajectories, which makes them ideal for long range shooting.

For this example, we will consider shots taken at 1,500 yards with a 195 gr Hornady ELD-M 300 Win Mag and a 225 gr ELD-M for the 300 PRC.

At 1,500 yards, the 300 Win Mag will have experienced -885” of bullet drop while the 300 PRC will have dropped -776”. Clearly the 300 PRC has the flatter trajectory at longer distances.

However, I also wanted to compare the mid-range trajectory as this is more important for hunters. At 600 yards, the 300 Win Mag has dropped -74” while the 300 PRC has dropped -73”. Essentially, they are identical at intermediate ranges.

Accuracy

Usually for caliber comparisons, there is little difference in accuracy between two cartridges. However, the 300 PRC has several advantages over the 300 Win Mag that will help the PRC perform better at long range.

The first benefit is that the 300 PRC is a beltless design whereas the 300 Win Mag has a belted case.

At the time of development, the group think was that a magnum cartridge needed the belt to aid in case rigidity. This has been proven to be a false presumption, however upon chambering in the rifle, headspacing occurs off the belt. This can cause for as much as 0.009” of room for error when pushing the bullet into the chamber.

This might not sound like much, but all that added slop can have the bullet entering the chamber off center. That fraction of a degree may cause the bullet to enter the rifling off axis, and at 1,500 yards can have a massive effect on point of impact.

By comparison, headspacing for the 300 PRC occurs off the 30-degree shoulders Hornady designed for the cartridge. This aids in chamber alignment when the cartridge is loaded into the chamber, meaning that the bullet will be more consistently aligned on axis with the barrel rifling. The 300 PRC also has a longer case neck, which helps hold longer projectiles securely and concentrically, which also aids in consistency and accuracy.

Finally, the 300 PRC was designed with a shorter freebore diameter than the 300 Win Mag. Freebore is the smooth portion of the chamber closes to the cartridge. A tighter freebore space means there is less opportunity for a bullet to yaw when entering the rifling, also increasing consistency and accuracy.

Although the accuracy of a cartridge is most often a reflection of the ability of the shooter and their shooting platform, most long range precision shooters will find that the 300 PRC is more accurate and consistent with ELR shots than the 300 Win Mag.

Ballistic Coefficient

Ballistic coefficient (BC) is a measure of how well a bullet resists wind and air resistance. Put another way, it’s a numeric representation of how aerodynamic a bullet is. A high BC is preferred as this means the bullet will buck the wind easier.

Generally, a heavier bullet will have a higher BC as it takes more force to disrupt the flight of a heavier bullet than a lighter one.

The 300 PRC was specifically designed to fire heavier bullets, so it should come as no surprised that the 300 Win Mag falls behind the 300 PRC in terms BC.

The two primary factory loads for 300 PRC are the 212-grain ELD-X and the 225 gr ELD match, which have a BC of 0.663 and 0.777, respectively.

The 300 Win Mag just cannot compete with the heavier bullets fired by the 300 PRC. The heaviest projectiles the 300 Win Mag can reliably fire would be 200 gr bullets, as the slower twist rate of the barrel cannot stabilize heavier bullets reliably. For example, a 200 gr Berger Hybrid Target will have a BC of 0.64.

The ballistic coefficient for both cartridges is extremely good, but the 300 PRC is just better as it can fire heavier bullets.

Sectional Density

Sectional Density (SD) is the measure of how well a bullet penetrates a target. This is extremely important when hunting big game, as you need a bullet that can punch through thick hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter. The higher the SD the deeper the bullet will penetrate into the target.

As both rifle cartridges fire the same diameter bullet, they will have very similar sectional densities with a very slight advantage towards the 300 PRC as it fires heavier bullets.

Hunting

When hunting, shot placement is always the most important factor between an ethical kill and wounding the animal. Therefore, you might assume that you want the most accurate cartridge possible when hunting.

However, I contest that the 300 Win Mag is the superior option for hunting.

Don’t get me wrong, those 212-grain ELD-X 300 PRC cartridges will do a number on an elk or whitetail. However, at ethical hunting distances (500 yards for most hunters), there is little difference between the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC.

However, the one major difference between the two is recoil. Lower recoil will often translate into greater precision and accuracy downrange. Therefore, the 300 Win Mag will be easier to handle at shorter ranges and result in better shot placement.

Furthermore, 300 Win Mag factory ammo is easy to find, cheaper, and comes in more varieties than 300 PRC.

As it is unlikely that a moose or elk will be able to detect any fractional differences in internal ballistics between the two rounds, it’s clear that the 300 Win Mag is the better choice for hunting.

Rifle and Ammo Cost/Availability

This is another category where the 300 Win Mag reigns supreme as it has been on the market for over 50 years.

The 300 Win Mag is considered the gold standard when it comes to hunting big game. Therefore, virtually every firearm manufacturer has a rifle chambered in the cartridge. Entry models are also available such as the Savage Axis or the Ruger American for under $700.

As the 300 PRC is the new kid on the block, there are fewer rifle options available. Rifles from Savage, Bergara, Ruger, Barrett, and other custom manufacturers will start at nothing short of a grand and go up from there. In terms of ammo for 300 PRC, there are fewer varieties available…And they are not cheap! The least expensive PRC ammo I could find ran around $3/round while match ammo ran around $6-7/round.

To complicate matters, there are not many bullet weights available for 300 PRC at this time. The 212 gr ELD-X line from Hornady are the most popular factory loads for hunting while the 225 grain ELD Match is their match-grade round. And that’s about all that’s available at the time of writing!

On the other hand, 300 Win Mag ammo can run as low as $2/round for cheap FMJ practice ammo and about $5/round for the high-quality hunting varieties.

The 300 Win Mag is easier to find in your local firearms shop or hunting outlet store, whereas 300 PRC is a lot less common to see in these stores.

Reloading

Reloading or handloading is the process of recycling fired brass and to be fired again. This not only offers a wide range of ammo customization, but it also reduces your overall cost per round. Reloading is one way to bring the cost per round of 300 PRC back into the realm of practicality. However, the heavier bullets that it fires are not often compatible with other 30-caliber cartridges except for the likes of the 300 Norma Magnum.

In contrast, the lighter bullets fired by the 300 Win Mag can be loaded into 30-06 Springfield, 308 Winchester, and 300 WSM and allows you to purchase in bulk if you reload for these cartridges as well.

Powder selection you’ll want to prioritize slower burning, temperature stable powders such as Retumbo, Reloader 26, Reloader 23, H4831, and H1000.

All major bullet manufacturers like Berger, Barnes, Nosler, and Hornady make 30-caliber bullets that will mate beautiful with both cartridges.

300 Win Mag Ballistics

A Brief History of 300 PRC

The Hornady 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (PRC) was specifically designed with long range precision shooting in mind. Hornady developed the cartridge to fire long, aerodynamic, and high BC 30-caliber bullets to be everything long range shooters want but haven’t heard about yet.

The 300 PRC began when the ballisticians at Hornady wanted to bridge the gap between the 300 Winchester Magnum and 338 Lapua Magnum for extreme long range (ELR) shooters who wanted to air it out past 1,500 yards but not have to endure the shoulder punishing recoil of the 338.

Other cartridges had attempted this but fell slightly short of the mark, namely the 30 Nosler and 300 Norma Magnum. Barrel life for these cartridges is painfully short, and Hornady wanted to provide shooters with a cartridge that could fire 200+ grain 0.308” diameter bullet while maintaining an acceptable lifespan of the barrel.

Using the 375 Ruger as a parent case, Hornady necked down the cartridge to accept a 30-caliber bullet and set the shoulder angle at 30 degrees, and thusly the 300 PRC was born.

Hornady specifically built the 300 PRC to be a magnum cartridge and did not constrain themselves by using a long action like what happened with the 300 Winchester Magnum.

Instead, they build the rifle around the cartridge, and what they got was an extremely accurate long range cartridge that can easily compete with the 338 Lapua in terms of trajectory.

The 300 PRC embodies everything amazing about the 6.5 Creedmoor and adapts it to 30 caliber. Hornady rolled out their new cartridge at 2019 SHOT Show and received SAAMI approval in August of 2018.

The initial design for the 300 PRC fires a 212 gr bullet at 2860 fps and 3850 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. Hornady also offers factory loads with 220, 225, and 250 grain bullets.

Although the 300 PRC is still somewhat of an obscure chambering, it is quickly becoming more popular in the long range competition circuit and is also garnering some attention from US SOCOM for military application.

A Brief History of 300 Win Mag

In 1963, Winchester introduced the 300 Win Mag in its long-action Winchester Model 70 bolt action rifle.

Remington quickly followed suit, introducing a 300 Win Mag offering in its popular Rem 700 bolt action rife. Since then, the 300 Winchester Magnum has quickly become one of the most successful magnum rifle cartridges on the market today.

The 300 Winchester Magnum was developed from the belted 375 H&H Magnum cartridge and sports a whopping case capacity of 91.5 gr of water and a max pressure of 64,000 psi based on SAAMI specifications.

This voluminous case capacity allows the 300 Win Mag to pack in the powder and push the .308” diameter bullet to its limits.

At the muzzle, a 150-grain bullet is screaming down range at about 3300 fps with a back-breaking 3600 ft-lbs of energy. That is some serious power! Standard loadings for the 300 Win Mag range between bullet weights of 150 and 220 gr.

Many shooters believe that the belted case is required to contain the “case-splitting” pressure that the 300 Win Mag must exude. However, this is a common misconception.

Based on the case design, the belted cartridge is superfluous. However, Winchester retained the designed as a marketing strategy to link the cartridge to its heavy hitting predecessor, the 375 H&H Magnum.

The strategy was wildly successful as the 300 Winchester Magnum has become one of the most popular magnum cartridges on the market, surpassing the 300 WSM, 7mm Rem Mag, and 270 Weatherby Magnum.

Final Shots: 300 Win Mag vs 300 PRC

The ballisticians at Hornady did an exceptional job designing the 300 PRC, focusing on optimizing the cartridge design and then building the rifle around it. Although many have criticized the 300 PRC for being another boutique cartridge that offers only marginal improvements over current designs, US SOCOM seems to disagree with their purchase of an unknown quantity of Barrett MRAD rifles in 300 PRC.

It’s hard to say if the 300 PRC will gain mainstream acceptance and adoption by other ammo and rifle manufacturers, however Hornady has changed many perspectives in the past like they did with the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The benefits that the 300 PRC offers cannot be ignored, as it is truly a precision rifle cartridge in every sense of the word.

The 300 Winchester Magnum is big game hunting mainstay and has taken every animal on North America. It is powerful, accurate, and has a trajectory that military snipers, sportsmen, and target shooters have grown to love.

However, the 300 Win Mag cannot accommodate heaver .308” bullets with higher ballistic coefficients like the 300 PRC was designed for. The 300 Win Mag also has less recoil than the 300 PRC, which can make a difference if follow-up shots are needed.

For most shooters, the 300 Win Mag will be more than enough to handle all their shooting needs. However, for long range F-Class and T-Class competitions, the 300 PRC is clearly the ideal choice.

As the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag have almost identical ballistic properties at hunting ranges, there is not a compelling argument for using the more expensive 300 PRC at these ranges when the 300 Win Mag can do the same thing at lower cost and recoil.

But if you just love the idea of having the most accurized 30-caliber magnum cartridge out there, then go get yourself a 300 PRC and enjoy that sub-MOA accuracy that the cartridge offers!

For a very long time, people were unaware of how other birds (especially pigeons and doves) saw the world around them.

Recent investigations in the field of science have, thankfully, shed light on the astonishingly varied visual capabilities of these bird species. So, let us discuss Dove’s vision. Are they color blind?

Doves are not colorblind in any sense. They can see and differentiate colors easily. Doves’ eyes, in contrast to human eyes, find it easier to concentrate on stationary things than they do on moving ones.

Like most other types of prey animals, dogs have a single eye on each side of their heads, giving them a monocular field of vision.

They have a field of vision that is 340 degrees wide, much wider/advanced than humans and many other birds.

But there’s more to learn about how doves see the world around them.

In this article, we’ll explore the topic of Dove’s vision in more detail, including:

How doves see color and the difference between human and dove eyesight.

Let’s get started.

Do doves have good eyesight?

Doves have excellent vision and can see well in bright and dark light. They’re also able to see movement from a long distance away, making them superb hunters. In fact, doves are so good at spotting prey that they can often take down small birds with just a few quick pecks.

Doves have better vision than humans

Doves have a vision that is far superior to that of humans. Because of their eyes’ incredible sensitivity, they can discern UV colors that are entirely invisible to human sight.

These birds have the ability to recognize color, and when they spot brightly colored clothing that stands out from its surroundings, they will become alarmed. So, their hunt is a little bit tricky too.

Lack Depth Perception

Doves are distinguished by the constant bobbing of their heads, which is one of their features.

The action has been interpreted as a means of maintaining balance due to the position of their legs in relation to the rest of their bodies; nevertheless, there is another component at play here.

They have to continually refocus their eyesight to see objects clearly, particularly while they are moving around on the ground.

Their downward vision is highly developed and ground-focused, just as one would anticipate from any species belonging to the bird kingdom.

Eyes Anatomy/Shape

In comparison to the size of their bodies, the eyes of doves are significantly bigger than those of other birds.

The form of their eyes is likewise distinct from one another. The lenses have a significantly flatter profile.

The visual acuity of a dove is significantly superior to that of raptors because they have binocular vision, while doves have monocular vision.

In point of fact, doves have eyesight that is two times as excellent as that of humans when seen via their monocular lateral field of view.

Doves Are Constantly On the Lookout

Have you ever attempted to sneak up on a dove and get a closer look? It is incredibly challenging, and it may even be impossible.

As wild birds, they are experts at surviving in their environment and are highly attuned to their surroundings. When they are stumbling about on the ground, it may seem as though they are in a whole different universe; nevertheless, this is not the case.

Doves are always vigilant, and despite having to refocus their vision constantly, they have excellent eyesight, which helps them avoid potential threats.

When humans approach, they may appear to be unaware of your presence in regions that people often visit; nevertheless, you should not accept this impression since they are always aware of your position.

What colors entice doves to visit your garden?

Natural camouflage colors such as grey, brown, and olive are suitable possibilities for attracting birds with more cautious temperaments, such as doves, waterfowl, and other similar species. These birds are more likely to be scared off by brighter colors.

Note: White should be avoided at all costs since doves are more likely to be attracted to other exceptionally bright colors. It would appear that doves interpret this color as a warning.

Dove eye colors

Eye Color of doves varies from light brown to gray when they are young. But their eye colors change from dark brown to gray-brown or black as the species develops and becomes an adult.

The shade of their eyes also alters depending on the time of day and light availability.

During the nighttime, their pupil becomes more dilated to let in more light, just like the humans. On the other hand, in low light conditions, their pupil contracts to a small black dot.

When doves are alarmed or feel threatened, their eyes will also become more prominent.

The reason behind this is that their eyes need to be more focused when they are on high alert.

Doves also have a third eyelid, which is a translucent membrane that covers the eye when they blink.

In fact, this third eyelid helps to protect the eye and keep it moist.

Why are colors essential for doves?

Doves rely on color for a variety of reasons, including attracting potential mates and identifying food and water sources.

For the aim of breeding

The beginning of the mating season is signaled by the appearance of plumage with brighter colors. A mature and healthy mate can also be deduced from a partner’s use of brighter colors.

Cues from food as well as the surroundings

Seeds/fruits with bright colors are often ready to eat and have the highest concentration of nutrients when they are at their peak.

Seeds/fruits with bright colors are often ready to eat and have the highest concentration of nutrients when they are at their peak.

The changing of the colors of the leave also indicates doves migrate in the cold weather.

Can doves see colors?

Doves can see color, but their color vision is not as good as that of other birds, such as hawks.

The eyes are also used to detect movement and light. The retina contains rods and cones which respond to different wavelengths of light.

These cells have a high sensitivity for detecting motion, while the rods are more sensitive to low-intensity light than the cones. Birds’ eyes are also capable of seeing polarized light, which allows them to distinguish between objects with similar colors.

This ability comes from the fact that the eye contains an internal structure called the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back through the lens.

How do doves see colors?

Dove’s eyes contain three types of photoreceptors: rods, cones, and double cones. Rods are responsible for night vision, while cones are responsible for day vision. Double cones are responsible for color vision.

Rods

Rods are located in the retina and help the bird see at night. Their function is to detect changes in brightness. When there is no change in brightness, the rod cell fires off an electrical impulse. If there is a sudden increase in brightness, then the rod cell stops firing.

Cones

Cones are located in the retina’s center and are responsible for daytime vision. They are made up of two parts: a short outer segment and a longer inner segment. The outer segment contains rhodopsin, which absorbs photons and triggers chemical reactions within the cone cell. Rhodopsin is activated by blue light, which makes it easier for the cone to absorb photons.

Dove eye and the human eye

In contrast to humans, who are trichromats and can only see three colors, blue, green, and red, doves are tetrachromats, meaning they can see four colors: ultraviolet (UV), blue, green, and red.

The ability to see UV light is what sets doves apart from other birds and animals, including humans.

In fact, this capability is thought to help doves find food and mates and avoid predators.

Do doves have peripheral vision?

Doves do not have peripheral vision. Doves have binocular vision, meaning they can see directly in front of them and to the side. This is because they have a band of nerve cells (the striated muscle layer) that runs across their eyes, allowing them to move their eyes quickly in any direction.

Binocular vision allows birds to judge distances accurately and helps them catch prey by spotting it from a distance. It also helps them keep track of other birds or predators when they are flying in formation.

What distinguishes a common dove from a mourning dove?

The distinction between these two species is primarily in their color. The blue-eyed ground dove’s body feathering varies from milky light brown to greyish buff, and it has a pinkish tinge to it. In contrast, the mourning dove has a coloration that is more brown and earthy and has black patches on its wings.

Distribution and habitat

Blue-eyed ground doves are found throughout much of North America, including Canada, Mexico, Central America, South America, and the Caribbean. They can be found in a variety of habitats, such as grasslands, prairies, savannas, deserts, forests, wetlands, and urban areas. Blue-eyed ground doves have been known to inhabit agricultural fields, parks, gardens, and even suburban backyards.

On the other hand, mourning doves live all over the world, except for Antarctica and Australia. They prefer open wooded areas, especially near water. They often nest in tree cavities or under bridges. Mourning doves are usually seen alone, although pairs will sometimes form if one member dies.

Can doves see at night?

Doves have excellent night vision, thanks to their rods. Rods are located in the retina and help the bird see at night. They detect changes in brightness, and when there is no change in brightness, the rod cell fires off an electrical impulse.

This allows doves to see in low light conditions and even in complete darkness. In addition, doves have a tapetum lucidum, which is a reflective layer of cells in the back of their eyes that reflects light and helps them see better in the dark.

What color are the dove’s eyes?

The color of a dove’s eyes can vary depending on the species. Common doves have dark brown eyes, while mourning doves have yellow-orange eyes.

Blue-eyed ground doves have blue eyes, which sets them apart from other species. The blue coloration is caused by a pigment called pteridine that reflects light and gives the eye its distinctive hue.

Do doves recognize faces?

Doves are one of the few species of birds that are capable of recognizing people’s faces, although they are a rare exception.

Doves are able to distinguish between individuals who provide them with food and those who intend to hurt them. This talent is essential for the birds to have in order to survive in the wild since it enables them to tell friends from foes.

People who provide doves with food regularly will notice that the birds are less likely to flee from them when they approach. The reason for this is that the birds have learned to recognize the human faces of the people who feed them over the course of time.

Do doves have the ability to see TV screens?

Doves are able to view the screens of televisions, computers, and other electronic devices.

The bird’s eyes are so sensitive to light that they can see the flickering of the images on the screen.

In fact, doves are not the only type of bird that can see electronic screens. Any bird with good eyesight will be able to see the images on a screen.

Summary

Before we move on to the conclusion, we’ve summarized this article into a short list of key points for you to remember:

• Doves have good vision, with some species being able to see in dim conditions due to special cells in their eyes called tapetum lucidum.
• Doves are one of the few species of birds that can recognize people’s faces.
• Doves can see the screens of televisions, computers, and other electronic devices.
• Grey doves have better vision than mourning doves.

Conclusion

In this article, we’ve learned about the anatomy of a dove and how its eyes work. We’ve also learned some interesting facts about the behavior of these birds.

We went over some interesting facts about doves. We also answered some common questions people have about these birds.

Doves are intelligent creatures that have the ability to recognize faces due to their extraordinarily sharp vision, enabling them to identify showy attire and activity from a considerable distance.

Additionally, we looked at the differences between the eyes of a grey dove and those of a mourning dove.

Finally, we discussed whether doves see color and why they might be colorblind.

Want to learn more about doves?

Ready to boost your knowledge to the next level? If so, check out the articles below:

• Do Doves and Pigeons Make Good Pets?
• What Do Turtle Doves Eat? Everything You Need To Know!
• Are Doves Aggressive?

Sources

• FOR THE BIRDS: Bird eyes differ from human eyes

Buckwheat can make the soil easier to till. Moreover, it can produce flour for making pancakes, and if you’re gluten-free, growing this cover crop is undoubtedly a nice thing to consider.

So when to plant buckwheat? The ideal growing season for this plant is spring, though summer and early fall are also possible. Read on for more details.

Best Time to Plant Buckwheat

1. In spring, summer, and fall

In fact, many people grow buckwheat during the hot months to suppress garden weeds. If you plan to do the same, make sure to irrigate the plant frequently to safeguard it against high heat.

For example, Columbia in PA has the last frost on May 5 and the first frost on October 5. As a result, the planting dates in this region are May 19 until October 4.

2. When the soil is warm, neutral or acidic, and well-drained

In terms of temperature, the soil should be 70℉ or warmer for ideal germination. If you can’t meet this exact requirement, a range of 45 to 105℉ is acceptable.

At the same time, the garden bed should have a pH of 4 to 6 and be neither too wet nor too dry to nourish buckwheat. And because we’re talking about dampness, one factor that influences it is the soil’s drainage.

To test how quickly your garden bed releases moisture, dig a trench with a depth and width of 12 inches and pour water into it.

If the hole you dug doesn’t lose an inch of water an hour, add three to four inches of compost to the ground.

Hardiness Zones for Buckwheat Growing

Buckwheat best grows in hardiness zone 3 to 7. To determine which zone you’re living in, go to planthardiness.ars.usda.gov and look up the map for your state.

For example, if you live in Greensboro in NC, your residence would fall under zone 7. On the other hand, Hancock in Iowa would be in zone 5.

Both of these areas can support buckwheat.

How to Plant Buckwheat?

That said, it’s possible to select buckwheat seeds for planting according to your region.

As an example, the Manisoba cultivar is very popular in the Northeast of the US.

Also, note that a distribution of 55 pounds of seeds per acre will bring excellent results, whether you’re growing buckwheat as a cover crop or as produce.

Harvesting Buckwheat

Buckwheat is ready for harvest when ¾ of the seeds are brown and ripe. To make sure this is the case, check the seeds carefully and ensure they’re not empty hulls. Otherwise, you may think you’ve reached the ¾ criterion when you haven’t.

Then, follow the steps below to harvest buckwheat:

Conclusion

When to plant buckwheat? The answer should become apparent as long as you know the frost dates where you live.

In addition, it’s essential to give your plant the right soil temperature, pH, and care. This includes adjusting the ground’s acidity and watering it when necessary, for instance.

With these tips in mind, you should be able to grow buckwheat in your garden without trouble.

Besides, you also can refer more to other topics about the best time to plant other flowers such as azaleas, allium bulbs, roses and etc.

Anyone who spends time perched on top of or pushing a mower around the yard knows the Ariens name as one of the premier makers of lawn and garden equipment for homeowners. Ariens doesn’t just limit their reach to residential customers, though. Through their heavy duty Gravely brand, landscape professionals and turf managers have been tackling about any tough job using professional grade, reliable Gravely equipment they can count on all day, every day. In fact, the Gravely brand has been in the field for nearly 100 years and as the company prepares to celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2016, they’re introducing an all-new lineup.

Introducing a Job Site Vehicle

In keeping with their hard working, heavy duty line for professionals, Gravely is calling their new Side x Side models the Atlas JSV for Job Site Vehicle, and Atlas for the Greek God who could carry the weight of the world. That’s a bold statement to be sure, but to insure the new JSV models could handle hard work, Gravely tapped one of the industry giants to help with the design and manufacturing of the new machine. Polaris has a huge influence in the recreational side of the sport, and their expertise and advice would be welcome with the new JSV as well.

At the heart of any hard-working machine is a solid chassis and with the new Gravely JSV, that means a steel tube structure with dual A-arms at the front and a suspension at the rear unlike anything else. Rather than going with dual A-arms at the rear, Gravely gave the JSV what is called a de-Dion rear suspension. Although it sounds a bit like a 50’s boy band, we guarantee it’s all muscle. Unlike traditional A-arm independent rear suspension, the de-Deion rear suspension is linked from side to side, but the load carrying capability is increased. This type of suspension has been used for years in the automobile market, primarily for its reduced unsprung weight, easier shock valving, and minimal camber change which helps keep wheels firmly planted on the ground and driving forward. Since the JSV isn’t likely to be turning laps on any race course, though, it was all about handling a heavy load in this case. As the song says, it’s all about the bass! To help dial in the ride, both the front and rear shocks are preload adjustable.

Inside the cab structure of the new JSV models anyone familiar with the Polaris Ranger lineup will feel right at home. That’s a good thing. Polaris has turned ergonomics and driver and passenger comfort into an art form and it’s easy to see their influence here. On the dash is a handy shift lever with forward, neutral, high, low, and park gears. A tilting steering wheel adjusts for driver comfort, and directly in front of the wheel is a digital instrument display. In the center of the dash are switches for lights and accessories, and two 12V accessory outlets. Thankfully, there is plenty of storage underneath the dash along with a couple cup holders, but Gravely added their own touch by topping the dash with a couple more recessed areas for storing small items, just like in your truck. Down below the serrated floor board offers enough grip to keep your feet in place even in muddy boots, and since the JSV is designed for three people in the front seat, there are seatbelts for all.

Since everything about the JSV vehicles was designed for hard work, they needed a sturdy rear dump box up to the task as well. Rather than a composite box, like most recreational side by sides, the JSV gets a formed and welded steel box with stiffening ribs underneath and along the sides for maximum load carrying capacity. At the rear is a heavy-duty metal tailgate with two metal pins to keep the tailgate closed. It’s a very simple set up, but it is incredibly reliable and it works. It’s not always about getting fancy, but more about getting finished. One feature we really appreciate about the rear dump box is that there are no wheel wells intruding. That means it’s easy to load a pallet with no obstructions. A 2 inch receiver hitch down below also gives the JSV the ability to pull a trailer, and disc brakes at all wheels help you bring everything to a quick stop.

Gravely gave all JSV models Carlisle’s All-Trail tires. These tires feature a much tighter lug pattern than typical off-road tires, which makes for a smoother ride on hard-packed surfaces, increased load carrying capability and control from less sidewall flex, and better puncture resistance. That will be a comfort to construction site managers or anyone operating the JSV on sites littered with construction debris. The only drawback is slightly less traction on muddy surfaces. Steel wheels are used for maximum durability.

The Four Horsemen

Landscapers, construction workers, utility crews, and timber harvesters all have tough jobs and plenty of tools specific to their profession. It would be a mistake to assume that a “one-size-fits-all” vehicle would suit all their needs. Gravely recognized this and there are actually four unique Atlas JSV vehicles to choose from. While they share many of the same hard working features, it is the engine and seating capacity options that create the different models. Here is a breakdown of the four different models:

• ATLAS JSV 3000 – EFI

Polaris ProStar 570cc 40hp Liquid Cooled EFI equipped GAS engine, seating for three

• ATLAS JSV-3000 – Diesel

Kohler 24HP / 1028CC liquid cooled, indirect Injection DIESEL engine, seating for three

• ATLAS JSV 6000 – EFI

Polaris ProStar 570cc 40hp Liquid Cooled EFI equipped GAS engine, seating for six

• ATLAS JSV-6000 – Diesel

Kohler 24HP / 1028CC liquid cooled, indirect Injection DIESEL engine, seating for six

We’ve always been extremely fond of the Polaris ProStar 570 engine, and it has performed incredibly well in the stock Polaris units. It offers excellent power, it runs smooth, and it has been extremely reliable. We love it. In the JSV chassis, the ProStar 570 will be tuned more for pulling a heavy load than climbing dune faces, and top speed will be dialed back slightly in keeping with its working class mandate. The Kohler diesel engine offers fleet managers a nice option and it definitely simplifies fueling. Whenever you fuel up the dozer or bucket truck, splash a little diesel in the JSV as well and you’ll be good to go! In addition, the enormous torque of the Diesel engine provides plenty of power to pull a trailer loaded with everything from cinder blocks to irrigation pipe, and we expect the reliability of this motor to be outstanding. Both engines are mated to the same CVT/Belt driven transmission which features the Polaris engineered On-Demand True AWD/2WD/VersaTrac with Turf Mode. Turf managers love this feature to avoid damage to sensitive areas, but when things get sticky, all you need to do is flip the switch to engage all four wheels and power out of trouble!

Wisconsin Test Ride

The gently rolling terrain outside the small town of Brillion, Wisconsin provided an excellent place to spend an afternoon with the ATLAS JSV. There were hills, woods, a few rocks, and plenty of fields pocked with farms in every direction. In short, it was just like home! Gravely had a small fleet of JSVs waiting for us, and as usual we were anxious to try them all.

We hopped into the three seat, gas version of the Atlas JSV and with a twist of the key, the ProStar engine purred to life. After a couple minutes to warm up, we slipped the gear shifter into High and we were off. Our initial concern with the heavy duty design of the de-Dion rear suspension was that it might offer a harsh ride. Often times machines designed to haul a mountain of gear, dirt, or anything else have a rough ride when the vehicle is carrying less than a full load or only a passenger or two. That was definitely not the case with the Gravely JSV. The suspension was soaking up bumps, rocks, and logs with ease. We were off to a good start, but the next part surprised us even more.

We’ve always loved the ProStar 570 engine, especially in the mid-sized chassis. When Polaris slipped that same engine into a full-sized chassis, though, the relationship ended badly; for unknown reasons, it got LOUD. However, with the Gravely JSV full-sized chassis package, it was back to its quiet self, purring along nicely at all RPM ranges. We’re not sure how they did it, but it works. It was possible to have a normal conversation on the trails without feeling like anyone needed to yell.

Part of the course wound through muddy sections and it gave us a chance to try the JSV in the mud, and with a flip of the switch all four wheels were clawing for traction. The Carlisle tires got us through, but you could tell they are happier on hard-pack. The only other feature we didn’t care for was the extra turning effort required by the too-wide front tires. A wider footprint definitely helps with flotation, but it also requires more turning effort, and we would suggest Gravely opt for a narrower version of this tire on the front of future models. This was something Honda also had to learn with their first Big Red MUV.

We also had time aboard the Diesel version of the JSV, and although the chassis performs pretty much the same as the gas version, we were highly impressed with the Kohler Diesel engine. It feels like it has enough torque to pull a full-sized log out of the woods, but its best feature is its very quiet and smooth ride. There was no noticeable vibration from the Kohler engine, and again it was quiet on the trail.

Work Ready

The Atlas JSV will fit in nicely with the Gravely brand of power equipment. It’s more than just another product line for their dealers, however. All of the Atlas JSV machines are fully capable of handling all the work you can send their way, and just like any other good member of the crew, they’ll be ready to go again the next morning.

Time to cut through all of the chatter.

The .300 Blackout (BLK) has been called everything from the 5.56 killer to the black mamba.

Designed by Advanced Armament Company as a replacement for the MP5SD, a 9mm sub-machine gun favored by special ops, it had to have more power, same sound level, and compatibility with the M4/AR-15.

The .300 BLK did exactly that…and gave civilians a serious upgrade for the AR-15.

But should you consider an AR or upper chambered for .300 BLK? What are the pros/cons?

We’ll walk you through the ballistics, cost, and real-world power of the .300 BLK vs 5.56/.223. And then if you want more…we have our standalone articles on the best uppers, ammo, & even optics.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself pondering the .300 BLK…keep reading.

.300 BLK History

The .300 BLK has its origins in the .300 Whisper, a round designed…as the name suggests…to be shot suppressed.

The case is formed by stretching out the case of a 5.56mm NATO and trimming it down slightly.

It is then stuffed with fast-burning powders and any number of bullets weighing from 110 to 220-grain.

Voila!

What you have now is the ultimate short-range thumper that will feed both supersonic and subsonic ammunition and get its full ballistic potential (complete burn of the powder) from a 9-inch barrel.

The .300 BLK is really what two long protracted wars in the Middle East have taught us about the modern gunfight.

You need a hard-hitting, short, light, and quiet, gun that will own 0 to 300 yards.

The AR-15/.300 BLK combo does this markedly better than the 5.56 NATO.

Why You May Want a .300 BLK Upper/Rifle

The .300 BLK has easily been the most successful new caliber in the last 20 years.

Besides the easy conversion between 5.56 and .300 BLK, the .300 BLK does a lot the 5.56 can’t.

First off, it’s a very versatile load with projectiles weights ranging from 110 grains to 220 grains.

The 110-grain rounds are supersonic, and the 220 subsonic.

A subsonic round is much easier to suppress, and much quieter when suppressed. The .300 BLK also reaches peak ballistic potential from a 9-inch barrel.

The 5.56 requires a 20-inch barrel to reach peak ballistic performance.

.300 Blackout vs. 5.56 NATO

Strengths & Weaknesses

Both .300 BLK and 5.56 NATO are intermediate-class rifle cartridges for target shooting, hunting, home defense, and plinking.

The 5.56 is half the cost of 300 BLK and is available in more high-end loading suitable for precision rifle fire.

It also shoots flatter, experiences less recoil, and ammunition weighs about 40% less.

The .300 BLK offers a wider range of projectile choices, thanks to the .30 caliber bore, burns its full potential in a 9-inch barrel, and is a much better choice for hunting.

It also has the ability to cycle both super and subsonic ammunition without modification.

The .300 BLK also shows its strengths when short-barreled rifles and silencers are involved.

For a duty rifle that will conduct CQB work, this cartridge is a godsend.

Exterior & Terminal Ballistics

In the table above you can see the compared ballistics of both the .300 BLK and the 5.56 NATO.

It shows the barrels that the cartridges were designed around…20-inches for the 5.56, 9-inches for the .300 BLK, and the most popular civilian barrel length of 16-inches.

Exterior Ballistics

Exterior ballistics are the qualities associated with how a projectile flies through the air — wind drift, bullet drop, and zero range all fall into this category.

You can see above that the 5.56 is significantly flatter than the .300 BLK in flight. This is due to a faster velocity.

The .300 BLK uses bullets with a higher ballistic coefficient but isn’t moving fast enough to take advantage of its sleeker projectiles.

This is why the 5.56 shoots flatter and with less wind drift despite having almost half as much energy.

Terminal Ballistics

Terminal ballistics of a round are the qualities it has when it hits the target.

The round’s sectional density, the relationship of its mass and its weight, its ability to penetrate rather than fragment, and the wound channel it creates due to its bore size are all the study of terminal ballistics.

It’s important to note that while energy numbers can give you an idea of power, it’s only a single data point.

To the untrained observer, the .300 BLK seems to have the edge in terminal ballistics.

The stouter bullets, with more mass of a larger caliber, seem to be the more effective round.

While the .300 BLK does have slight obstacle defeating capabilities it isn’t markedly better in performance than the 5.56 with the correct loading.

Modern bullet design is closing the gap between calibers and making the smaller bores more and more effective.

Additionally, the 5.56mm NATO was designed to break up, tumble and flip end over end when it encounters a target.

This is called high-velocity projectile fragmentation and deformation.

As far as a clear-cut winner goes…it entirely depends on what you want from the round.

General Shooting

Target shooting, training, or informal plinking, shooting is just plain fun.

It can get expensive so go with 5.56 NATO.

The .300 BLK’s benefits just aren’t needed when all you’re doing is punching paper.

Look for bulk cheap 5.56mm and use it. You can always switch to .300 BLK when the time comes.

Home Defense

Your home is your castle and for keeping the peace you should walk softly and carry a rifle.

.300 BLK and 5.56 both have their pros and cons and what’s best for one person, may not be the best for another.

The best selling point for .300 BLK is that it can be used with a suppressor and a short barrel — both of which are great for home defense.

A short barrel makes it easier to move around your home and a suppressor protects you and your loved ones’ hearing.

That said, a major downside to .300 BLK in home defense is they have a lot of barrier penetration. Meaning that if you miss (or even if you do hit your target) there is a very good chance those rounds will carry through the wall.

Over penetration makes .300 BLK a very poor choice for anyone living in an apartment.

On the other hand, 5.56 has poor barrier penetration (it will still go through several layers of drywall, but loses effectiveness much faster than .300 BLK).

So it might be a better fit for apartment living.

Hunting

With modern bullet designs, the gaps between the power of calibers are shrinking.

But what you’re hunting and the range are the primary factors when choosing a hunting round.

If your quarry will include only small game, predators, or mid-sized deer at ranges inside 100 to 150-yards then go for the 5.56.

If you plan on hunting medium or large game — such as deer, hogs, or smaller bears — the .300 BLK is far superior.

The extra mass gives more reliable penetration than the 5.56. And the typical hunting ranges of these animals mean that the slight disadvantage of the trajectory is negligible.

However, if you’re looking to hunt any game at distances greater than 150-yards or game larger than an above-average whitetail — you should look at cartridges with a little more oomph to ensure ethical kills.

SHTF

Shoot both!

Uppers available for cheap online can make your weapons much more versatile.

Because the .300 BLK is derived from the case of the 5.56, all you have to do to switch caliber is change the barrel. In an AR-15 the best way to do this is to get a second upper receiver.

Keep all your mags, high-quality bolt, lower receiver, and take advantage of both cartridges.

.300 Blackout Safety

I do want to note one thing before you run out and get a new .300 BLK upper…you NEED to be careful when switching between uppers or even when you have a dedicated .300 BLK rifle and a 5.56 rifle.

.300 BLK can chamber in most 5.56 barrels, however, if you try to shoot it – your barrel (and sometimes more) will literally burst. Explosively.

Make sure you keep ammo and mags separate.

Personally, I keep them organized by using different color mags — FDE and black for 5.56 and Olive Drab for .300 BLK. I also double and triple-check things before loading a mag into the rifle.

Conclusion

The .300 BLK won’t ever supplant the 5.56 for the most ubiquitous AR-15 cartridge but it does have some key areas where it really shines.

Most notably, it does great in CQB environments or alongside suppressors and can run on your existing AR-15 — so long as you get a .300 BLK upper.

In short, we love the versatility of this cartridge.

Does a .300 BLK make sense for you? We’ve got a lot more where this came from!

• Best .300 BLK Uppers
• Best .300 BLK Ammo
• Best .300 BLK Optics

Have you ever wondered how a flash hider actually works, or what’s inside a suppressor? Confused about the difference between a brake and a compensator? Or maybe you’re just curious which muzzle device will help you shave a second or two off of your competition time – whatever the case may be, you’re in luck, because we’re doing a deep dive on the different types of muzzle devices and exploring the pros and cons of each one.

Flash Hider

While the name is fairly self-explanatory, the science behind flash hiders (also known as flash suppressors) is more complicated than you might think.

When a bullet is fired from a typical long-barreled rifle, most of the propellant is burned before the bullet exits the barrel. But with a shorter barrel, where there isn’t enough time for the powder to be fully consumed, the result is an almost instantaneous two-stage muzzle flash – the primary flash is caused by super-heated propellant gases trailing behind the bullet, and the secondary flash is caused by residual gases that ignite after being exposed to oxygen in the air, creating the infamous “fireball” that you’ve probably encountered if you’ve ever fired an SBR or shot a firearm without a flash hider (especially at night).

This created an obvious problem as militaries around the world began shifting towards shorter, more maneuverable carbines – while increased muzzle flash also made the shooter a more visible target, the bigger problem was that it significantly impacted the shooter’s vision during night-time engagements, and in extreme cases could even cause temporary blindness.

One of the earliest examples of a flash hider can be seen with the clamp-on conical flash suppressors used on Lee-Enfield Jungle Carbines in the later years of World War II, but the example that most shooters are probably familiar with is the A2 “bird cage” flash hider that comes standard on most AR-pattern rifles. But how does it actually work? The answer is that the holes or gaps in the flash hider divert the super-heated gases from the primary flash, while also minimizing oxygen flow and rapidly cooling the residual gases to reduce or eliminate the secondary fireball effect.

If you’re shooting a carbine or short-barreled rifle, often shoot at night, or frequently use cartridges that either require large powder charges or the use of slower-burning powder, a flash hider is going to be your best friend.

Muzzle Brake

When you fire a gun, the energy created by expanding gases is used to propel the bullet forward. And if we recall Newton’s Third Law of Motion, that means the same energy is exerted in the opposite direction, resulting in what we feel as recoil. In order to reduce that recoil, those gases need to be redirected – and that’s exactly what a muzzle brake is for.

While brakes were first invented to tame the recoil of artillery and vehicle-mounted gun systems, they eventually made their way over to the world of small arms as well. They became especially useful for reducing the recoil impulse of large-bore rifles and anti-materiel weapons, often cutting the felt recoil by as much as 50%.

In simple terms, a brake works by redirecting gases backward, typically at a 45-degree angle to the shooter. In effect, this “pulls” the weapon forward, counteracting recoil. Some muzzle brakes also come with one or more expansion chambers cut into them, which help to bleed off escaping gasses and reduce their momentum, further reducing recoil.

So who needs a muzzle brake? Typically, anyone who is shooting big-bore firearms with otherwise unmanageable recoil, though they are also popular among many medium-bore hunters who may have to fire from awkward positions or who want to be able to spot their hits at longer distances. They are also a common choice for shooters putting together lightweight rifle builds, since the reduced mass makes recoil more noticeable and there are many muzzle brakes constructed of lightweight aluminum or polymer that add negligible weight.

As with all muzzle devices, there are some trade-offs: the gasses diverted by a muzzle brake are still moving very quickly, increasing the perceived decibel level and concussive force of each shot for anyone who is in their path. If you’ve ever had the privilege of going to an indoor range and ending up next to someone running a brake, you know just how unpleasant it can be. Those gasses can also kick up dust and debris if you’re shooting from a prone position, which is something to keep in mind for those who live in drier climates.

Compensator

While some will argue that a compensator is just another type of muzzle brake, they perform a specific enough role to merit their own separate discussion. Whereas a muzzle brake is intended to lessen felt recoil, a compensator is intended to reduce muzzle climb (also known as muzzle flip). To accomplish that, there are two basic compensator designs: linear and radial.

A linear compensator redirects gas in a straight line forward of the shooter, reducing some of the noise and concussive force of the muzzle blast and making the firearm more comfortable to fire for the user and anyone standing nearby. Because they reduce muzzle climb less than a radial compensator, linear compensators are typically seen on short-barreled rifles or AR pistols, where recoil management is less of an issue than the decibel level and shockwaves generated by each shot.

A radial compensator usually (but not always) vents gases at a 90-degree angle to the shooter, and can often be identified by the holes, or “ports,” cut into it. Because each compensator must be specifically designed to suit the shooting platform it is intended for, there are naturally some unusual designs floating around, as well; the most famous example is probably the iconic AKM “slant brake,” which actually isn’t a brake at all – it is an aggressively angled compensator that is canted roughly 22 degrees off center to the muzzle in order to counteract the natural up-and-to-the-right recoil pattern of the AKM when fired by a right-handed shooter.

While compensators are great at what they do, and are a frequent mainstay of competitive events that require the shooter to deliver fast follow-up shots, there are a few things to keep in mind. Like muzzle brakes, most radial compensators will make even a relatively soft-shooting cartridge painful for everyone else around you, and the ported holes effectively shortens your barrel length, resulting in some loss of velocity. As well, linear compensators can create a very small amount of turbulence at the muzzle crown due to some of the gases actually being pushed out of the barrel faster than the bullet – for the vast majority of shooters, this effect will be unnoticeable, but those who are interested in extreme long-range shooting or precision benchrest shooting will likely want to look elsewhere.

Suppressor

First things first: No, “silencers” aren’t really silent. Suppressors reduce a firearm’s muzzle report by reducing the speed and pressure of the gas created when a cartridge is fired, and while the effect can be significant, it’s not as dramatic as Hollywood would have you believe.

Suppressors work by using a series of sound baffles to create a sort of “maze” for the gases to navigate, causing them to slow down and cool off enough to reduce the sound of the gunshot. These baffles are usually made of a lightweight metal such as titanium or aluminum, though a few manufacturers have successfully used plastic baffles for .22 LR suppressors. These baffles can either be machined out of a single piece of metal, in which case they are called a “monolithic core” suppressor, or they can be manufactured in multiple pieces and combined in a “baffle stack” suppressor.

Generally speaking, a monolithic core suppressor will be less expensive, easier to clean, and less prone to experiencing a baffle strike, while a baffle stack suppressor will be slightly quieter, shorter, and able to make use of alloys such as Inconel that are more efficient but also more difficult to machine into a monolithic design.

While suppressors are by far the most expensive muzzle device on this list, and also require the extra expense and legal headache of securing an NFA tax stamp, they are a great all-around option for those with enough patience and money. Not only does a suppressor dramatically reduce noise, it also eliminates muzzles flash by cooling the gases as they travel through the baffles. Not only that, muzzle climb and felt recoil are slightly reduced thanks to the reduced energy of the gases and the added weight and length of the suppressor. They’re an increasingly popular choice for hunters who don’t want to scare off nearby game or use bulky ear protection, and if you’re building a rifle for home defense, a suppressor will ensure that you are not temporarily blinded by muzzle flash in a dark room or subjected to permanent hearing damage.

The Bottom Line

As is often the case when it comes to firearm accessories, choosing the best muzzle device for your needs ultimately comes down to your mission. While the standard flash hider that comes mounted on many modern rifles is perfectly adequate for most situations, upgrading your muzzle device is often a relatively inexpensive way to squeeze some extra efficiency or better performance out of your gun, whether you want a jack-off-all-trades tool or a highly specialized setup.

If you’re planning to kill a wolf in the wild, you need to learn how to skin a wolf in the right way. If you’re not familiar with the procedure, here are some tips for the task. First, you’ll need to gut the animal. You should first cut out the bulging belly. This will make the skin and hair slip off. Once the animal has been gutted, you’ll need to make a small slit down its belly. Be careful not to cut into the ear area, as this will prevent it from spoiling.

If you’re planning to kill a wolf in the wild, you need to learn how to skin a wolf in the right way. If you’re not familiar with the procedure, here are some tips for the task. First, you’ll need to gut the animal. You should first cut out the bulging belly. This will make the skin and hair slip off. Once the animal has been gutted, you’ll need to make a small slit down its belly. Be careful not to cut into the ear area, as this will prevent it from spoiling.

After the skin is rolled up, you can freeze it to dry it. You can also hang the animal to dry and thaw. The next step is to prepare the wolf for skinning. After the wolf is completely defrosted, you can put it on a stretcher and hang it until it is dry to the touch. Once the wolf’s hide is completely dry, you can freeze it.

When you’ve finished skinning the wolf, you can hang it up to dry. The wolf’s skin will be much easier to remove if you hang it on a wall. If you’re not comfortable doing this, you can use a Wolf Balloon to keep the animal upright. Then, you can use a knife to cut the hide into small pieces. You should also avoid cutting yourself while skinning.

If you’re not comfortable skinning a wolf, you should purchase a wolf balloon. A wolf balloon makes the process easier and quicker. Just remember not to try this method if you’re squeamish! And if you don’t want to risk the skinning process, a gambrel is your best option. You can also hang the animal on a gambrel.

You can skin a wolf by removing its head. You can do it yourself by following a few steps. The wolf’s skin can be split and dried. After that, you can freeze the hide and sell it at a fur market. You can also take a wolf to a store that sells pelts and use it for your clothing or furniture. You’ll find a wolf’s body and hair in the local area.

Before you start skinning a wolf, be sure it’s dead. In the wild, a wolf may freeze to death. In cold weather, the animal can be frozen in the shed or at the skinning shop. It can take as much as four days to thaw completely. If you’re not careful, the animal could still be frozen before you get to it. In addition, it may be hard to distinguish a wolf from a dog by the color of its coat.

Before you begin skinning a wolf, you should take care of its feet. This helps prevent injury. Then, you’ll need to prepare the wolf’s head and neck for skinning. You’ll need a squeamish person to help you. If you’re not sure how to skin a wolf, it’s better to call a professional. This will be safer for you.

The first thing you should know about wolves is that they have a lot of senses. They have 200 million smelling cells in their noses and can detect scents up to 100 times better than humans. Moreover, wolves have 42 teeth, and their back teeth are used to crush bones. The front teeth are used for nibbling and pulling, while the tongue is used for cleaning meat. This is an important step in learning how to skin a wolf in the wild.

The wolf’s skin should be clean and dry. It should be completely free of any wounds or cuts. Before you skin a wolf, be sure to prepare its hide for skinning. In the case of a wolf, the skin will be incredibly moist and slippery. It may even be difficult to remove the fur. But that’s all part of the fun! While this process might be a bit messy, it’s a worthwhile experience for the whole family.

The first step in skinning a wolf is to prepare it for skinning. If you’re going to be skinning a wolf in the field, it is best to do it as soon as possible after the kill. If the skin is tanned too dark, it will be too difficult to carry. The last step is to remove the bones. You can use coconut oil or olive oil to tan the hides, or you can use an ice cream solution.

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Fishing for trout in streams and rivers is very different from trout fishing in lakes and ponds.

First of all, the trout don’t move around very much, so you need to keep moving yourself, and secondly, all of your fishing tactics need to be effective for fishing in water that’s constantly moving.

In order to catch trout successfully in rivers and streams, it’s important to use the right tactics to find trout positioned in feeding lanes close to the main current, and present your bait to them at exactly the right depth.

In this article we’ll discuss the top 3 trout rigs for rivers and streams, and will go over what each of them is best suited for.

How do you rig for trout in a stream or river?

The three most important trout rigs for fishing in rivers and streams are:

• Fixed bobber rig
• Drift rig for trout
• Spinner rig

These three trout rigs cover the majority of all trout fishing applications in rivers and streams, and if you know how to use them effectively, you’ll catch a lot of fish.

That being said, each of them comes in several different shapes and sizes, so there is plenty of room to adapt them to your specific fishing conditions.

Both the fixed bobber rig and the drift rig are great tools for drifting a baited hook with the current, and are ideal for presenting it at the right depth for trout in feeding lanes of rivers and streams.

Each of them comes with its own strengths and weaknesses, and we’ll go into those in more detail below.

The spinner rig is a great option for fishing trout lures in any kind of moving water, from tiny streams to wide rivers, and can be adjusted for each of these scenarios.

Now let’s dive into the details, and discuss each of these rigs more fully.

Fixed bobber rig

This is one of the simplest trout rigs, but works very well for streams and rivers, as it allows you to drift your bait with the current into the most promising spots where trout are likely to be positioned while they wait for the current to bring them food.

Since streams are rarely deeper than 6 or 7 feet, you can cover all depths with a fixed bobber rig, and don’t need to use a slip bobber.

One advantage of using a fixed bobber rig is that you can easily adjust the depth at which you’re fishing by sliding your bobber up or down, and thus fish a range of different depths in every spot, before moving on to the next.

Tying a fixed bobber rig is very easy. You start by threading your bobber onto the line, and then tying the line to swivel or snap swivel.

Next tie a 3 to 4 foot fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and then tie a size 8 to 14 bait hook to the other end of the leader. And finally, add one or more split shots to the rig to weigh down your baited hook in the water.

The best baits to use with this rig are worms, salmon eggs, or plastic beads (which look like salmon eggs).

You can also use plastic worms, which come in a wide variety of colors. Powerbait doesn’t work as effectively for wild trout in streams as it does for stocked trout in lakes.

Drift rig for trout

This is the most important rig for drift fishing for trout in strong currents, and in deep runs and holes.

The advantage of this bottom fishing rig is that it presents your bait close to the bottom, where trout are usually positioned while they wait for the current to carry food to them.

The great thing about the trout drift rig is that you can use a weaker dropper line to attach the split shot weights, and if the weights should get snagged on the bottom, you can break off the dropper line without losing the rest of your setup.

Another advantage is that you can easily adjust the amount of weight by adding or subtracting split shot weights, or switching out a pencil weight at the end of the dropper line.

This is very important, as you’re going to encounter currents of different strengths, and will need different amounts of weight to get your rig down to the bottom fast enough.

In order to tie the drift rig for trout, start by tying your main line to one eye of a three way swivel.

Next, tie a 3 to 4 foot long fluorocarbon leader to another eye of the swivel, and then tie your bait hook to the other end of that leader.

Finally, tie a 2 to 3 inch long dropper line to the third eye of the 3 way swivel, and either attach several split shot weights, or tie a pencil weight to the end of the dropper line.

The best baits to use for trout when drift fishing with this rig are worms and salmon eggs, or plastic beads or plastic worms of various shapes and color.

Incidentally, this setup also works very well for catching steelhead from the bank, and you may be able to target both species at the same time in some rivers.

Spinner rig

This is a classical trout fishing rig that works well in both running and still waters.

When using it in small streams, try to downsize your lures, since the average size of trout is likely to be smaller than in lakes and ponds.

If you’re fishing in bigger rivers, on the other hand, you can definitely upsize your lure size, and will likely be catching bigger fish as well.

While you can potentially tie your main line directly to your lure, it’s better not to do this.

For one thing, you should use a swivel to avoid the lure twisting up your main line, and secondly, if you’re using braided main line, using a fluorocarbon leader will help to avoid spooking fish.

The best way to tie a spinner rig is to start by tying your main line to a size 6 swivel, and then tying 2 to 3 foot of fluorocarbon leader to the other eye of the swivel.

Then tie a bait hook to the leader, and attach one or more split shot weights above the swivel.

The split shot weights are necessary if you’re spinner fishing for trout in a strong current, and need to get your trout spinner or lure down to the right depth as fast as possible.

What is the best rig for trout fishing in streams?

The best rig for trout fishing in streams is the fixed bobber rig. It’s the perfect setup for drifting a baited hook or soft plastic worm along trout feeding lanes in streams.

The correct way to fish a bobber rig is to lift your main line up above the water, which results in the whole setup floating down the stream at a natural speed with the current, and this is by far the best tactic to catch trout in streams.

That being said, you can definitely also use the other two rigs to your advantage when fishing in trout streams.

The drift rig is a great option if you’re fishing in strong currents, and the spinner rig is ideal if you want to cover a lot of water quickly.

What is the best rig for trout fishing in rivers?

The best rig for trout fishing in rivers is the drift rig, since it’s ideal for presenting your bait close to the bottom even in strong currents.

By adjusting the amount of weight on the rig you can easily switch from one strength of current to another.

And since this fishing rig is also great for catching steelhead in rivers, it’s definitely worth learning how to use it effectively.

Best rod and reel setup for trout fishing in streams and rivers

Now let’s talk about the best trout rod and reel setup to use when fishing with these rigs.

All three rigs are best fished with a 7 to 8 foot long light or ultralight spinning rod.

However, when fishing on small streams, you may want to choose a shorter rod around 6 foot long, since that’s easier to use under trees and bushes.

Also, if you’re fishing in big rivers where trout grow larger (or where you could hook into steelhead as well), you probably want to increase the strength of your rod to medium power.

The ideal reel to use with this setup is a 2000 to 3000 size spinning reel spooled with 10 to 20 lb test braided line.

Braid is the best choice of trout fishing line in rivers because it has almost no stretch, which allows you to feel trout bites with more sensitivity compared to mono or fluoro.

While braid is the best choice for your main line, the leader should definitely be fluorocarbon, since that has lower visibility underwater, and presents your bait with more stealth.

The U.S. military drove the development of both cartridges, but the similarities—other than the mandatory bullet, case, propellant and primer—pretty much end there in a .45-70 Gov’t vs. .308 Win. comparison. The former is one of the oldest designs still in commercial production, with good reason. The other isn’t exactly a youngster, celebrating its 70th birthday this year, but it’s still serves with honor with our armed forces across the globe in its lower-pressure 7.62 NATO iteration.

The secret to their longevity is enviable performance, but in vastly different applications. They rarely, if ever, shine in the same duties. A look at their numbers tells the tale.

History

.45-70 Gov’t

The U.S. Army adopted the .45-70 Gov’t in 1873, three years before Gen. Custer’s ill-fated last stand. The military requirements it met prior to approval included 4-inch groups at 100 yards.

Today groups that wide are almost unheard of, even from abused rifles. It was a different time, though, the original cartridges used blackpowder for propellant and gun making wasn’t as precise. Bullet manufacturing was far from scientific, too.

The official designation at introduction was .45-70-450, with the middle number reflecting powder charge and the last indicating bullet weight. Subsequent testing indicated heavier projectiles increased effective range, so in 1879 (too late for the 7th Cavalry, not that it would have helped) the .45-70-500 became standard issue. The military put an end to the cartridge’s 19-year run in 1892 when it adopted the .30-40 Krag, although rifles in the older chambering continued use for some time.

Combine modern smokeless powder, improved projectiles and CNC-produced rifles and one-inch groups at 100 yards are no longer unicorn rare with the cartridge. At long-distance, however, the trajectory and energy still fall in dramatic fashion.

The .45-70 Gov’t term is shorthand for .45-70 Government, but there are other labels. Some call it the .45-70 Springfield (for the first rifle chambered for it) or simply .45-70. Hornady includes it in a parenthetical listing as the 1895 Marlin.

It’s earned a variety of names, likely a byproduct of age., but the same can’t be said for the .308 Win.

.308 Win.

Members of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization officially adopted the 7.62 NATO cartridge in 1954, two years after Winchester introduced the .308 Win. to civilians. The pair are virtually identical, although the former’s slightly lower pressure allows it to run safely in either chambering—.308 Win. ammo, on the other hand, is not ideal for guns chambered for 7.62 NATO.

Accuracy from the cartridge is almost legendary. It’s used in long-distance competition to this day and favored by some of the world’s best precision shooters. The records it set were staggering, although many—likely all soon—are being eclipsed by a new slew of .300 and .338 Magnums, .50 BMGs and others.

Its ageless versatility took the spotlight, however, during the global war on terrorism, when operations began in Afghanistan. Engagements there were often ridgeline to ridgeline, out of the effective range of the standard-issue M4 and 5.56 NATO cartridge. Expensive precision rifles designed for serious long distance aren’t widely available, so armorers came up with an innovative solution.

M14s chambered for 7.62 NATO mothballed for decades were retrofitted with modern furniture. Issued to designated marksmen within platoons they could stretch the distance and neutralize insurgent snipers who, until then, could rain deadly fire on platoons largely unencumbered.

That’s just the primary advantage of the .308 Win. and its 7.62 NATO fraternal twin. Despite the slight and virtually undetectable physical different, both are predictable in flight and deliver fight-stopping energy at distance.

For that reason, and the fact it can run in every firearm design, the .308 Win. is often claimed to be the most popular hunting cartridge in the United States. The short-action cartridge gained a whole new generation of enthusiasts with its uncompromising performance in AR-10s.

Ballistics

Velocity and Energy

The .40-70 Gov’t bullet has a diameter of .458 inch and the projectiles loaded in today’s cartridges are, in most cases, heavy enough to put big game down with one-shot authority—with proper shot placement at moderate distance. Federal Premium’s 300-grain Trophy Bonded Bear Claw load is one of the heavyweights availably today, but it helps illustrate the dramatic ballistic difference for a .45-70 Gov’t vs. .308 Win. comparison.

The bullet leaves Federal’s test barrel at 1,850 fps. The sheer mass of that projectile, however, means it is carrying 2,280 ft.-lbs. of energy at the muzzle.

The .308 Win. has a bullet diameter of .308 inch. Federal Premium’s 180-grain Trophy Bonded load in the cartridge exits the gun at 2,620 fps with 2,743 ft.-lbs. of energy—the winner by a wide margin. At 300 yards it has slowed down to 2,277 fps but still manages to have 1,789 ft.-lbs. of knockdown power. At that point, the above .45-70 Gov’t load’s figure drops to only 797, roughly half.

Even with lighter bullets in the .45-70 Gov’t the drop-off is dramatic. Hornady’s LEVERevolution line includes a 250-grain load that manages 2,025 fps leaving the barrel with 2,276 ft.-lbs. of energy. Despite the higher initial speed, its energy figure still plummets to 636 at 300 yards. At 200, if you’re wondering, it’s 918.

The figures may leave some wondering why the cartridge has survived for nearly 150 years. Its secret lives inside somewhere inside 150 yards, where most hunters in the United States take their big game. It’s there that the energy is sufficient and, when combined with the wider bullet diameter, it’s a combination that fills tags. It really shines for big game up close—tough ones, like American bison and big bears.

At 100 yards the Federal .45-70 Gov’t load carries a 1,569 ft.-lb. punch. Hornady’s lighter bullet delivers 1,450. Add modern bullet design and both hit with tag-filling authority.

Legacy

It also oozes nostalgia. The single-shot Springfield Trapdoor rifles carried by Gen. Armstrong Custer’s troopers at the Little Bighorn were chambered in .45-70-Gov’t. The bullets their cartridges wore weighed an even more formidable 405 grains.

Its design, however, precludes use in semi-automatic firearms. The profile is even a challenge when it comes to bolt-action rifles. Not many exist and their scarcity makes them popular among collectors.

The .308 Win., however, lends itself to reliable feeding and extraction in every method of operation. It’s available in semi-automatics, like the AR-10, bolt actions, single shots and even lever actions.

.45-70 vs. .308 Exterior Ballistics

The .308 Win. also has a flatter trajectory. Zeroed at 100 yards, the Federal 300-grain .45-70 Gov’t bullet drops 13.4 inches at 200 yards and more than four feet at 300. The company’s 180-grain .308 Win. load, with the same zero drops 3.4 inches at 200 yards and 15.4 inches at 300. The difference is huge and widens with distance.

Add a 10-mph full value wind and the .308 drifts 6.9 inches at 300 yards. At that distance, in the same breeze, the company’s .45-70 Gov’t load has moves more than two feet. Doping the wind is not an endeavor easily done by a novice, and a challenge for most experienced enthusiasts.

Any discussion of a cartridge’s potential accuracy is dubious, at best. There’s no doubt today’s cutting-edge CNC gun manufacturing has tightened groups in every firearm, regardless of chambering. One-hole groups are possible with either cartridge, in the right conditions. The exterior ballistics, however, make it obvious that the .458-inch diameter projectile requires a skilled marksman behind the trigger and quality ammo.

As a result, the .45=70 Gov’t has a relatively reputation for being inaccurate. Its origins as an early military cartridge laid that foundation.

Which One is Best?

Deciding which cartridge is best always comes down to individual preference and application. The .45-70 Gov’t is big, heavy and hits with undeniable authority at medium distance. With proper shot placement it will usually convince a big bear that its charge wasn’t such a good idea. It falls off quickly when things get long, although those lever-actions or single-shots are a blast from the past. They also add challenge to many favorite pursuits.

There’s a virtually unlimited number of firearms chambered for .308 Win. Regardless of what it’s in, the cartridge performs, is usually less expensive, much easier to find in the store, and if you’re going to stretch the distance wins by a wide margin. It’s businesslike and precise.

You can’t go wrong with either cartridge, but it’s a rare knowledgeable gun owner who doesn’t have at least one .308 Win. in their gun safe—and there’s good reason for that fact.