What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

Due to their status as natural predators, eagles are at the top of the food chain. To live, several eagle species will eat various birds and mammals. Are you curious to know that do eagles eat raccoons or not?

Yes, eagles eat raccoons. Eagles prey on raccoons because raccoons are one of the most likely hoofed mammals of eagles. A raccoon can be killed by an eagle attacking it from above, but raccoons are pretty resilient creatures in person.

This article will study the different types of eagles to know if they eat raccoons. So, keep reading the article further.

Eagle And Raccoon Relationship

Eagles and raccoons both have predator-prey-type relationships. In the wild, an adult eagle is without any other natural predators. However, hawks, owls, raccoons, wildcats, and other predatory creatures may feast on the eggs and chicks of eagles.

Although eagles also prey on raccoons, raccoons are one of the most likely mammalian predators of eagles. In reality, according to a few studies, the mother eagle is shown on the live broadcast bringing a young raccoon to the nest so that the eaglets can eat. Large owls and eagles will consume young raccoons.

What an eagle consumes is decided by its feet. It is apparent from one glance at an eagle’s foot that such birds are designed for hunting large prey. They are built to catch the target that would be out of reach for most other birds, thanks to their strong legs, feet, and pointed crampons.

Do Bald Eagles Eat Raccoons?

No, bald eagles do not eat raccoons. Depending on their habitat, some bald eagles mostly consume fish, while others primarily consume other birds like gulls and geese. However, rodents like rabbits, calves, and, yes, even cuddly kitties are rarely included on the menu.

Bald eagles can obtain fish, their main food source, nearby rivers, lakes, and marshes where they dwell. Nevertheless, as their numbers increase, bald eagles are extending their territory and even building nests in cities. Dove hunting, tortoises, bunnies, snakes, various small animals, and carrion are other things bald eagles eat.

Since bald eagles typically inhabit freshwater or coastal environments, fish is essentially their primary source of meat. Many people are shocked to learn that bald eagles have strict vegetarian inclinations; they enjoy pursuing trout, catfish, and sardines, but they will also consume crabs and other invertebrates.

Do Sea Eagles Eat Raccoons?

No, sea eagles don’t eat raccoons. White-bellied goose is the primary food source for the sea eagle’s aquatic wildlife, like fish, turtles, and sea snakes. However, it also eats birds and mammals but not raccoons. It is an adept hunter and will take on anything up to Swan’s size.

Sea eagles consume a wide range of prey. All along the water’s edge, sea eagles eat carrion, or dead prey, such as sheep and fish. Smaller birds are harassed, which causes them to drop any food they hold. Sea eagles can forage singly, in pairs, or as a wider family. They frequently take food from other birds because they are evil eaters.

While sea eagles dangle from a considerable height and then quickly descend to the sea, they fish differently, swooping low above the water before momentarily hovering and seizing the fish.

Do Snake Eagles Eat Raccoons?

Yes, snake eagles eat raccoons, but they prey on raccoons when they don’t find anything to eat. As its name suggests, the snake eagle, also known as the crested serpent-eagle, is primarily a snake hunter. It seems to favor tree snakes in particular. However, it doesn’t only eat snakes.

Ants, small raccoons, amphibians, toads, animals, worms, small birds, and giant earthworms will also be consumed. Even though they are not resistant to snake poison, these Eagles are among the numerous predators of snakes in the wild. They would pounce on snakes from above, capture them, and then trample them underfoot with their feet.

Eagles are voracious predators that consume snakes, raccoons, rodents, and other birds. Eagles are scavengers that eat animal flesh, and one of their preferred fares is snakes.

Does Crowned Eagle Eat Raccoon?

No, crowned eagles do not eat raccoons. The primary prey of Crowned Eagles are mammals, particularly hyraxes, vervet monkeys, and tiny antelope-like Blue Duiker. Studies carried out in the local municipality region reveal that Hadeda Ibis is also consumed.

The Crowned Hawk-eagle has the strength to kill an antelope that is up to six times its bulk which is just amazing. Despite its hunting prowess, it is not always required for it to take down such large prey.

Along with other mammals, it also eats smaller animals like vervet and blue monkeys, tiny dugongs, klipspringers, rocky kangaroo rats, and Sharpe’s grysbok.

Additionally, it eats reptiles like the Rock Monitor as well as sporadically birds. Crowned hawk eagles have been observed to successfully hunt huge primates like baby bonobos and teenage maned wolves.

How Does An Eagle Catch Raccoon?

Raccoons are typically caught and killed by eagles with their claws, after which the pieces are torn out and either eaten by the eagle or fed to the eaglets. Most eagles often store one to two tons of food in the crops, a storing area located just behind the eagle’s chin when food is abundant.

After spotting the raccoon, they dive at a progressive angle and snag it in a vice-like deadly grasp with their formidable talons. Raccoon, which can frequently weigh only half the weight of the eagle, is what they take off with. The prey is torn apart by the enormous, serrated beak.

Eagles don’t consume their prey before regurgitating it to their chicks as some other birds do. Instead, they just use their talons to carry the prey to the nests, shred it into pieces, and afterward offer it to their chicks to eat.

Conclusion

Eagles are adaptive hunters who hunt a variety of species using their exceptional sight, speed, and flying, as well as their powerful initial strikes. These predators almost hunt anything that an eagle can kill with a single, strong stroke from above.

If the prey is tiny enough, they will either bring it to their nests from there or consume a small amount of it there and carry the rest of it away.

Most eagles remain at the top of their particular food chains due to extremely sophisticated hunting techniques. The dominant hunter of its environment is almost always an adult eagle.

References

Henson SM, Desharnais RA, Funasaki ET, Galusha JG, Watson JW, Hayward JL. Predator-prey dynamics of bald eagles and glaucous-winged gulls at Protection Island, Washington, USA. Ecol Evol. 2019.

Elliser, C. R., Edison, C., MacIver, K., & Rust, L. B. (2022). Kleptoparasitic interactions by bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) during marine mammal foraging events, Behaviour (published online ahead of print 2022).

Ekblad, C., Tikkanen, H., Sulkava, S. et al. Diet and breeding habitat preferences of White-tailed Eagles in a northern inland environment. Polar Biol 43, 2071-2084 (2020)

What is the AuthentX Craze? It’s a new sensation sweeping fish nation…walleye and sauger love plastic! And B Fish N Tackle AuthentX Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s, Ringworms, Paddletails and K-Grubs are what you need to drive them sauger and walleye CRA-ZEE! In our opinion these are the best plastics for walleye. But don’t take our word for it, try our five best tips.

Are you fishing where the walleyes are?

But Walt, I bought a bag of your miracle AuthentX soft plastics and can’t catch a fish on them. What am I doing wrong?

First off, you need to go fishing right now on a river with a known population of walleye and sauger. All major rivers of the Great Lakes plus, the Mississippi, Illinois, Missouri, Rock, Fox, St’ Croix, Rainy, Flambeau, Cedar, Iowa…you get the idea…look on a map, find a walleye river and go fishing!

If you want to learn how to catch fish…you need to go to where the fish are, in abundance. Right now the best walleye fishing is where there is an abundance of fish. That’s in the rivers.

How do I find the right spot?

Those river fish are going to be in pre-spawn, spawn or post-spawn right now…they are going to travel right up to the dam and are stacked up like cordwood or they are staging downriver to about five miles. If you want to learn how to catch them quickly…hire a guide!

If you want to figure it out yourself, watch other walleye anglers and see at what depths and areas they are fishing without getting on top of them and messing with their spot. Then find another area just like it and give it a try!

Then try my TOP FIVE ways to fish a jig rigged with AuthentX plastic baits, get the net ready!

Here are the Top Five AuthentX Plastic Techniques, in No Particular Order

Rippin’ Ribb-Finn’s

Some call it Rippin’, others it’s snap jigging and some even call it getting radical. Whatever you call it…it works. It works on aggressive fish, it works on negative fish, but why? Gettin’ radical triggers the walleye’s innate response to it’s natural phenomenon! Actually, I just made that up to see if you were paying attention, I really don’t know why, I am not a scientist.

Gettin’ radical calls for a reaction strike on the part of the fish. It sees Ribb-Finn, it eats Ribb-Finn and rod bends. Speaking of rods I prefer a St. Croix 6’8″ Eyecon Snap Jig rod for all my jig fishing…especially when I’m getting radical. The extra fast rod tip lets me make a good snapping motion and the sensitivity gets the nod for a quick hook set.

To rip a Ribb-Finn or any jig and plastic for that matter, make a cast, let it hit bottom and give it a quick wrist flick of about 6″ to 12,” hold your rod until the jig settles back down and then reel in the slack. Repeat a few more casts with this action. Then, if you don’t get any takers, make a bigger sweep of the rod up to two feet, reel in slack, big sweep…etc.

The key to rippin Ribb-Finn’s is to vary your cadence, try different ripping motions and then repeating what works. This is pretty much how you fish any lure. Once you figure out the action that attracts a fish to snatch your lure, you will have success on the day!

Swingin’ Moxi’s

Some call it swingin’, some call it working the shift. Call it what you want, you can use this technique from boat or shore.

Cast slightly upstream and let your H20 Jig/Moxi combo slide downstream in a controlled drift ticking bottom once in a while. If you use too heavy of a jig, you will snag up. Too light of a jig moves too fast and is out of the attack zone.

When your jig gets to the back of the boat or end of your cast and starts to swing around is usually when a strike occurs. If you don’t get a strike then slowly begin reeling back in. Pause every so often as a fish will often follow it back to the boat or right up to you near shore. I’ve had fish strike in inches of water from shore in the Spring…so be ready to set the !!broken!!

Having the right “feel” is when you go from a guy fishing to a guy catching. Look around at the other anglers on shore or in boats around you. Catching walleye requires skill.

There is always one guy in a boat that catches most of the fish or in a group of shore fisherman, there is always a guy. The key is to gather enough time on the water catching fish to be that guy.

Draggin’ Pulse-R’s

Power dragging involves use of the B Fish N Draggin’ Jig. James Holst and Dave Coons of In- Depth Outdoors TV perfected this technique on the Mississippi River, but it works everywhere. You can pick up a Draggin’ Jig kit with a FREE DVD on how to do it right here.

And here is a quick clip from In-Depth Outdoors to check out on Mississippi River Draggin’

Dubuque Rigging Ringworms

Dubuque rigging rules! Dubuque rigging offers endless possibilities. You can double rig ringworms, use different styles of AuthentX plastic, use plastic on one jig and live bait on the other, you get the idea!

Running your main line to rod to a three-way swivel to a short line to your jig gets to bottom. Then by running a longer line off the 3rd end or the three-way to a lighter jig or a plain hook allows you to run a different type of bait of plastic so you can determine what the hot color and bait is for the day. It’s a great way to figure out an area quickly.

Getting Vertical with AuthentX

Vertical jigging is by far one of the best ways devised by man to catch a walleye or sauger. The late great walleye pros Gary Gray and Tommy Skarlis were two of the best vertical jiggers I’ve personally ever fished next to.

A great vertical jig fisherman can use the absolute lightest jig imaginable that will still remain in contact with the bottom. I’d be jigging with a 1/4 ounce jig in the Illinois River barely feeling bottom and Tommy would be in the boat next to me catching fish with a 1/16th ounce jig, Tommy was a jigging machine!

The key to vertical jigging is matching boat speed to jig speed to current speed. The river speed changes constantly, your jig speed needs to match the current speed and you then adjust your boat speed to match your jig speed.

This is easier with a heavy jig. You can use a 1 to 2 ounce jig and pull upstream or if the current is really fast, over 3 mph you may need to jig slowly downstream. But a larger jig might be too heavy for light biters. In this case you lighten your jig and slide faster downstream while trying to keep you jig vertical and in pace with the current.

AuthentX plastic is great for getting vertical. Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s Ringworms and Paddletails all produce! Each has its own unique action. Sometimes a walleye will want it a little slower, sometimes a little quicker, sometimes big and bulky attraction is best, other times sleek and shiny!

You might have a plan in your head on what to do as you are driving to your spot, but be prepared to switch it up and figure what the fish want on a given day.

Word from the Captain

Finally, Here is veteran Rainy River Guide, Captain Chris Granrud of Chris Granrud Fishing with a quick tip for anglers seeking to catch more fish on plastics:

“Our favorite B fish N tackle plastics vary from the Pulse-R, Moxi and Ringworm. All have specific applications we rely upon. A wide variety of shapes and colors serve the angler well.

A quick guide tip involves nipping down the overall size of the plastic by simply cutting away a small portion of the lead edge of the plastic when encountering either a finicky bite or short strikes.”

How to select the right jig

A common question we receive is what weight jig and/or jig weight should anglers plan on bringing up with them. We prefer to utilize the H20 Precision jigs from B fish N Tackle as it offers an important plastic keeper in the form of a wire that sticks through the plastic and holds the plastic in proper position. This jig also is void of a molded collar that can cause damage to the plastic when lacing it up.

Matching jig head colors with color schematics of the plastic can offer those big walleyes a very nice finished offering. As per proper jig weight this is dependent on the flow of the river, technique being employed and the areas of the river anglers are targeting.

As a rule of thumb an angler wants to have a slight contact with the bottom when working a jig back against the current upon a slight drop of the tip.”

(As a special note this same H20 Precision jig head doubles as a fantastic crawler jig with that same wire keeper holding a piece of crawler in perfect position.)

If you enjoyed this article, you will also like these:

• Enjoy the Beautiful Fall Colors and the Best Fall Walleye Baits!
• Tungsten Jigs: New Age Ice Fishing vs. Old School
• Best Walleye Lures: 2 Hot Techniques: How to Fish a Jig

Apart from destroying farm fields, contaminating water supplies, and transmitting diseases to livestock, pets, and humans, did you know that wild hogs are known to attack and fatally injure or even kill human beings?

It’s no wonder farmers and hunters are interested in finding a firearm that is powerful enough to take down this invasive species. The 9mm carbine has rapidly become a preferred option for many hunters, especially when it comes to hog hunting. This is because it is effective at short distances, accurate, and cost-effective than most other firearms. Though it requires a perfect shot at a short distance to put down the hog humanely.

Well, this article will be answering some of the frequently asked questions concerning hog hunting with a 9mm carbine.

Can you hunt hogs with a 9mm?

Yes, you can hunt hogs with a 9mm carbine. This firearm is powerful enough to kill a hog at a short distance, and most hunters prefer using it as the only firearm during hog hunting. With this firearm, you will be assured of being able to kill the hogs as quickly as possible. However, you need to take a perfect shot if you are to instantly kill the hog. One can use it as a primary weapon for the hog hunt, but it can be considered as a secondary firearm as well.

You will appreciate that this firearm is not only perfect at killing hogs, but it is also a very economical weapon that farmers, hunters as well as trappers. Importantly to note, you need to have advanced marksmanship for you to be able to take down a hog without causing it too much suffering, especially because this gun is used for hunting in short distances. It brings about a challenging experience during the hunt, as well as an amazing excitement to the hunter. It is, therefore, correct to say that a 9mm carbine is an incredible weapon for you to gun down a hog.

Why a 9mm Carbine Is a a Good Option

It is important to note that hogs have a thick skull and hide as compared to other animals you could hunt. This simply means that when you venture into hunting hogs, you need to have a pistol with a longer barrel, and be loaded with fast, strong bullets that will easily penetrate and kill a hog. If you are to ascertain success in your hog hunt, carrying a carbine greatly increases the odds in your favor.

The 9mm carbine fits this bill, as it has a longer barrel. Though the 9mm bullets are small, they are effective when shot accurately at a close range. This simply means that a bullet in such a longer barrel will be able to build up incredible pressure that will guarantee a greater penetrating force as well as faster nominal velocity. This makes this carbine an incredible firearm to take out your hog.

You will also appreciate the fact that this gun is easy to carry, which will only make the hog hunt a little less strenuous. You will be able to execute your hunts with ease, especially stalk hunts which would require you to move about much more before finally getting your kill.

Destruction of Meat

When you are looking to preserve the condition of the hog’s meat and hide, this is the best gun to use for the hunt. You will note that the 9mm bullets are relatively small, which means that they will only create a small entry and exit points in the hog. You do not have to worry about destroying your meat when hunting with the 9mm carbine, even when you get to shoot at short distances.

Best Handgun to Finish Hogs

For a handgun, you could consider using the Glock 40 for hunting hogs. This is because it comes with a 6-inch barrel. This will ensure that you can pursue the hog effectively, and take it down without issues. This is a lightweight weapon that you can easily carry around as you head out for the hunt. When you are hunting hogs with your dogs, this is the best gun to use as you will not get tired carrying it around, and it’s an overall really well-made handgun.

Is it Humane to Use a 9mm?

Killing a hog with a 9mm carbine is only humane when you do it at a short distance and have the right shooting skills to hit the right spot. This means that you can take out the hog with a single shot and quick. When you do not hit the right spot, you are likely to injure the hog and lead to a lot of suffering before it finally dies.

Conclusion

For a successful hog hunt, it is important to invest in the right gun if you are to realize incredible results. You also need to consider ethical issues towards the hog, and you should not put it through unnecessary suffering. Using a 9mm carbine is a good choice when your sure you will make a perfect shot. And personally I’m really in love with Ruger’s new PC Carbine that I think you should have a look at!

Have a fantastic hunt!

Once again this year, every lilac in Southcentral seems to be showing signs of the latest surprise invasion. They are each harboring lilac leaf miners. Those brown patches on most leaves contain a caterpillar, one of the life stages of the pest. These eat tissue between the leaves and then use a silk thread to roll up the leaf and create a cocoon so they can pupate.

After a week, the caterpillars are transformed into small, fingernail-size moths. You may have seen them on your lawns. These will lay eggs, which will hatch into caterpillars, and the cycle will repeat. I am not sure how many cycles these moths have here in the summer, but elsewhere there are several. Let’s keep an eye on untouched leaves for the rest of the season and see what happens. Citizen science at work.

Fortunately, we are getting flowers before the leaf damage is visible. And, usually these kinds of population explosions work themselves out as natural predators take care of the problem. I have my fingers crossed.

Perhaps it is best to just see if nature will do her thing. Still, will someone remind me to suggest spraying lilacs with Bt next year just before these guys start eating? You might consider spraying this year if your leaves have not rolled up. And, you can squish the brown patches, but you will be working all day to do just one decent-size shrub.

Speaking of leaves, slugs are always around once eggs hatch early in the season. They have just gotten big enough lately to be seen easily. You know the routine. Trap them outside your gardens with beer or yeast in shallow containers they can get into and drown.

Every year I am asked if our slugs can be eaten. They can, but be careful, as slugs can carry a parasite gained from eating rodent feces which causes a form of meningitis in the human brain. If you are going to eat your slugs, you have to cook them. You also might want to purge their waste systems. I don’t recommend the practice. There are plenty of other strange things to eat out there.

Like mushrooms! The wet weather has caused the annual August explosion of fungi. I shouldn’t have to tell you to not eat any you cannot identify — just like no one needs to tell you to mask up because you already do — but I will! You need a good mycological identification book and, preferably a real experienced guide as well before you eat even the four or so that are all over, easily identified and delicious.

Some folks expend a lot of energy picking them. I leave my mushrooms in place. They are fruits of an extensive underground network, and you are not going to eradicate them. In fact, you don’t want to! Most of the mushrooms that pop up this time of year are fruiting bodies of the vast mycorrhizal fungal network that is feeding our trees. Those amanita? They support the birches in your yard.

You may not know that moose love mushrooms. So do squirrels and other animals. Treat them like summer bird feeders, only look for mammals.

Two question about the ability to grow peonies from seeds collected from plants that are now beginning to produce pods. What a loaded question!

First, seeds are not ready yet. Let the pods develop and collect them in September. These may or may not be true to the parent because they may have cross-pollinated with a different type.

Outside, these seeds are planted in a bed someplace that can be watched and maintained for the four-year-or-so wait for a decent plant. The seeds need a couple of warm months and then the chill of winter. We may or may not get enough warm time before winter here, so you can plant them indoors starting in October.

And finally, should you cut back peony plants to prevent diseases? First, of all, don’t do anything right now. Let your plants continue to grow and feed the root system. I know the standard advice is to remove peony leaves from the garden in the fall. I never have and have not had problems. If you do remove the leaves, make sure to mulch the remains to replace what you took away, and mark where the plant is so you will know next spring. Without this year’s stems it may be hard to find.

Jeff’s Alaska garden calendar

Alaska Botanical Garden: I know you read this, but have you joined, checked the website, gone to a Thursday socially distant picnic and generally taken advantage of this great institution? You should. alaskabg.org

Lawn pattern contest: Keep those wonderful lawn pattern photos coming in. It is not too late to mow a pattern into your lawn. Winner gets an autographed copy of one of my books.

Tomatoes and cucumbers: Cloudy, raining days mean no pollination, unless you be the bee.

Kohlrabi: How long are you going to wait to harvest yours? Baseball, not softball size is the way to go.

Butter and eggs: Their flowers are opening. When you encounter them, pick and remove from the landscape.

Dahlias, delphiniums: Stake yours. Those flowers are heavy when wet.

[Because of a high volume of comments requiring moderation, we are temporarily disabling comments on many of our articles so editors can focus on the coronavirus crisis and other coverage. We invite you to write a letter to the editor or reach out directly if you’d like to communicate with us about a particular article. Thanks.]

Here’s whether a shark or a crocodile wins in a fight:

A great white shark may take more than one hit and a lot of biting to beat a crocodile, but eventually, the great white shark will win.

Sharks species smaller than a great white easily lose to crocodiles.

The shark is always the prey when crocodiles and small sharks fight in shallow waters.

If you want to learn all about who wins in a fight between a shark and a crocodile, then you’re in the right place.

Keep reading!

Who Wins in a Fight Between a Shark and a Crocodile?

The only place where the great white shark and the saltwater crocodile can meet is the open water.

This is the natural habitat of the great white shark and gives them a maneuvering advantage over the slower saltwater Croc.

It would take multiple hits and a lot of biting to beat the crocodile, but eventually, the shark would probably win.

If it’s any other species of sharks smaller than the great white, the crocodile would easily take the win home.

Fights between crocodiles and small sharks sometimes happen in shallow waters, and in this case, the shark is always the prey.

It’s a bit different with great whites since they are rare and can only be found in deep waters.

Sharks can swim with 25 mph (40 km/h) speed in long bursts, while crocodiles can get to 18 mph (29 km/h) but get easily tired.

That’s where the main advantage for the great white shark over the saltwater crocodile lies.

Who Has a Stronger Bite: A Shark or a Crocodile?

The great white shark does have a huge jaw, but as a result of its diet, it doesn’t have the strongest bite amongst all shark species.

It’s a lot easier to bite through a seal (great white prey) than through the shells of a turtle (tiger shark prey).

The world’s most ferocious jaws, belonging to the saltwater crocodile, can snap with a force of 4000 lbs (2 tons).

The White Shark has a bite force of only 2200 lbs (1.1 tons).

It’s not a joke when this shark bites you but compared to the crocodile, they seem toothless.

The jaw size of the shark is wide enough to bite any part of a crocodile, but it lacks the force and proper teeth to do serious damage.

Although a crocodile can bite-crush almost anything, his mouth is simply not big enough for a great white shark.

Different Types of Teeth

Since they feed on different types of animals, it’s no surprise that sharks and crocodiles have different teeth shapes.

Crocs hunt prey that is larger and with stronger skin and bones, so they need teeth rigid enough to devour their victims.

White sharks don’t need to crunch the bones of the things they hunt and go for biting rather than squeezing with huge pressure.

A shark’s teeth look like a saw, and they are a few rows of spare ones behind each front tooth.

It’s not rare for sharks to lose and replace teeth during a struggle.

Who Will Participate in a Shark vs. Crocodile Fight?

The family Crocodylidae or True Crocodiles numbers 14 animal species.

As part of the order Crocodilia, the family has caimans, alligators, and caimans as their closest cousins.

The largest of them all is the one who is going to be picked for the Shark vs. Crocodile fight.

The saltwater crocodile is the largest living reptile, and this ancient being is also the one causing most human deaths compared to others of its family.

There are more than 1000 shark and ray species, and new ones are discovered each year.

If we want to pick the contender for this epic fight we will probably go with the biggest shark of them all, correct?

Well, not quite!

The whale shark is the biggest fish in the world but doesn’t participate in fights.

Its megamouth serves as a filter feeder to swallow anything coming its way (possibly a crocodile even).

The real shark fighter and the one with the most recorded attacks on humans is the great white shark.

It’s the 6th largest shark species, and the only one coming near its ferocity, strength, and size is the tiger shark (4th largest).

Characteristics of the Great White Shark

Legendary for being one of the fiercest predators, the great white shark caused admiration and fear in people for many years.

This cartilaginous fish is probably causing more harm in people’s imagination than in real life.

While humans fear the great white shark expressly and consider it a man-eating predator, this powerful and efficient hunter never had a preference for people.

Attacks happen when the shark is confused or just wants to taste the moving object.

When a great white shark wants to attack, the opening of its mouth can be 3 to 4 ft (1-1.2 m) wide.

The top of the great white shark is darker in blue of gray variations, while the lower area of the body is white.

Such discoloration is a hunting advantage because prey doesn’t notice the shark’s figure, and to them, it looks like the bottom of the ocean.

White Shark Body Strength

A great white shark has a fusiform and robust body. That means it’s shaped like a spindle and big and strong at the same time.

Adult sharks can be 13-22 ft (4-6.7 m) long with an average length of 19 ft (5.8 m).

Their weight can be somewhere between 6600 and 7500 lbs (3000-3400 kg).

The adult male great white sharks are approximately 6.5 ft (2 m) smaller than their representative females.

Strong pectoral fins and a triangle-shaped back fin are placed behind its narrow and pointed snout.

There is a smaller fin near the tail which ends with long lower and upper lobes.

Whiteys have delicate skin that cannot withstand huge penetrating forces, which puts them in an inferior position compared to crocodiles.

Characteristics of the saltwater crocodile

The saltwater crocodile is believed to be the animal that is most likely to eat a human being of all other animals in the world.

At the back of their mouths, saltwater crocodiles have valves that seal off the cavity from the throat.

This way, they can open their mouth while under the water.

However, it’s not possible to eat the prey beneath the water surface because they will need to swallow and allow their throats to open and fill with liquid.

When a crocodile catches something underwater, it has to take it to land and eat it or raise itself with its head above the water and swallow.

Adult individuals can be 16-23 ft (4.8-7 meters) in length and weigh between 880-1540 lbs (400-700 kg).

The male crocodiles are much larger than the females.

Their enormous heads and broad, heavy bodies are grey to brown so that they can blend in their muddy habitats.

Having short and strong limbs, their biggest attributes are their long and strong jaws.

A croc’s skin appears as some sort of prehistoric armor. It’s not easy to penetrate through it at all.

Where Can You Find Sharks?

You can find sharks in a lot of places in the world. They inhabit tropical waters nears the coasts and even temperate and cold areas.

In the Americas, there are sharks from Alaska to Mexico in the Pacific Ocean and from Newfoundland to Mexico in the Atlantic Ocean.

Outside of America, sharks dwell in the waters of Japan, the Mediterranean Sea, Oceania, and South Africa.

White Shark Behavior

Generally, the great white shark swims and hunts solitarily. From time to time, they can reunite with others. The groups can consist of a couple of sharks or even groups of 5-6.

Females mostly take the lead in the groups because of the existing hierarchical dominance.

Larger sharks dominate over the smaller ones, and when the group accepts newcomers, the fresh ones are subdued by the old leadership for some time.

The animal is equally active day and night. In an attempt to get familiar with the surroundings or look for prey, great sharks can sometimes jump out of the water.

While not being aggressive towards others of their species, an occasional warning bite might happen.

Where Can You Find Crocodiles?

Saltwater crocs can be commonly found in and around river mouths, mangrove swamps, and coastal marshes.

They inhabit the tropical regions of Australia, Africa, South America, North America, and Africa.

When crocodiles feel capable of swimming a lot, they can travel upstream.

Seasonal floods make it possible for crocodiles to get to places that are otherwise hard to reach.

It’s not unusual for them to live in the open ocean for short periods as they are quite capable of that.

Exploring is an exciting activity that can make them cross large water expanses.

Saltwater Crocodile Behavior

The saltwater crocodile is thought of as one of the most sophisticated and intelligent reptiles on the planet.

They live in groups and communicate with each other by crocodile-barking, hissing, chirping, and growling.

Saltwater crocodiles invest a great deal of their time thermoregulating to maintain their body temperatures.

For example, when it’s too hot, they go inside the water, stick their eyes and nostrils out and just wait until they are cool.

Do Crocodiles and Sharks Meet in Nature?

Crocodiles and sharks can occasionally meet in the water and have close encounters; most of the time, the situation would end with the shark fleeing the scene or getting eaten.

It’s mostly smaller shark species since large ones don’t dwell in shallow water.

Brutus the Giant Crocodile

Brutus is an 80-year-old crocodile living in Adelaide River in Northern Australia.

He some kind of celebrity because his front right leg is missing, and there are even boat tours that take you to him.

Photographers have caught him a few times with a bull shark in his mouth freshly caught from the river.

But you know what’s even more interesting?

It is sharks that took his front leg in the first place.

Comparison of Great White Shark and Saltwater Crocodile Attributes

Interest in sub-gauge shotguns has resurged for hunters over the last several years, and the turkey woods are no exception. With companies offering more choke tubes and TSS turkey loads for 20 gauge, .410, and even the 28 gauge, hunters are realizing the value and efficacy of small-bore shotguns.

While the 12 gauge still reigns supreme in the turkey woods, sub-gauges offer surprising pattern densities, range, and reduced recoil — all aspects that make them more than capable gobbler-getters. When it comes to turkey-specific guns, Mossberg leads the charge.

This spring, I had the privilege of testing and hunting with theMossberg 500 Turkey Optic-Ready .410. The light weight, short (24-inch) barrel, and decent range make this shotgun perfect for all-day hunts or for new and youth hunters who could use a lot less recoil. Even if you don’t take advantage of the recessed receiver, this shotgun comes ready to hunt out of the box.

In short: The Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey can give you plenty of range without the weight or punishing recoil of your typical (12 gauge) turkey gun.

Mossberg 500 Optic-Ready .410 Turkey: Review

Overview

Out of the box, the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey comes with a front fiber optic sight, a 24-inch barrel, and Mossy Oak’s popular Green Leaf pattern — hallmarks of the turkey-specific shotgun. However, the Optic-Ready version also includes a recessed receiver that allows you to mount a red dot directly on it. Specifically, the .410 Turkey features the Shield RMSc footprint and accommodates the Holosun HS407k (which I used). It also includes a recoil pad (though unnecessary) and a factory XF choke.

Testing the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey

After receiving the shotgun and Holosun HS407k, I dialed in the red dot (which is actually green). I started with a box of Winchester Double X no. 7s. Once I had the point of impact where I wanted, I finetuned the setup with Federal Premium Heavyweight TSS no. 9s. One shot at 25 yards produced a tight, dense pattern — more than enough pellets to drop a turkey in its tracks.

At 40 yards, the pattern spread out significantly but still placed 94 pellets within a 10-inch circle. This is good, out-of-the-box shooting, and I would expect an aftermarket choke (with the right TSS load) to produce even better results.

Afield, this shotgun is surprisingly nimble. It includes swivel studs, but you won’t need a sling on this .410. The Mossberg 500 .410 feels light in the hand, and it’s a joy to tote through the woods. Even on days where I covered several miles, I never missed a sling.

Where the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey Falls Short

Mossberg 500s are proven, tough actions, and the company is no stranger to pump-action shotguns. That being said, 500s have a bit of play in the forend. This hasn’t affected performance, and this is totally subjective, but I’ve never been a fan of the loose fit.

The fiber optic front post is nothing fancy. I would rather see a white or gold bead, but since it is turkey-specific, the norm trends toward FO. Overall, the price ($650) is decent. You’re not getting a steal, but for a ready-to-hunt turkey gun, it’s fair.

Compared to 12 and even 20 gauge, turkey ammo for a .410 isn’t cheap. Most .410 turkey ammo options are limited to TSS, so you can expect to spend at least $8 per shell (Winchester offers a copper-plated lead shot, but it didn’t pattern well enough for me to consider it with this particular setup).

By the time you fine-tune your setup and understand how your shotgun patterns at different ranges, you’ll have spent at least $100 in ammo before you’ve even thought about roosting a bird.

Where the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey Excels

I looked forward to hunting with this gun every time I took it out of the case. It’s light in the hand, pleasant to shoot, and it would also make for an exceptional squirrel gun. For the turkey woods, you can also balance it on your knee with one hand. If you do take advantage of the recessed receiver, it’s easy to form a nice cheek weld on the comb even with a red dot, and there’s no denying the proven 500 action.

Final Thoughts

While the interest in sub-gauges continues to rise, ammo manufacturers should eventually offer more turkey load options. If you prefer calling them close, the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey offers a great entry, especially for youth or new hunters itching to turkey hunt.

In 2020, the term Reflex Sight sounds a little out of date. There’s something of a late-80’s to Operation Desert Storm alure hovering about the old name. Often now referred to as a Red Dot Sight, the current nomenclature of the tactically proficient inundate themselves with words like Optic, or obscure the subject with codewords like “glass.” Growing up in tandem with the internet, many remember the day they graduated from the brain-melting phase of arguing AR vs AK, through the troublesome years of 9mm vs .45 into the sure sign of adulthood: the classic Red Dot vs Holographic arguments of the early 2010’s. In those days one was forced into what could only be understood as a binary decision: do you favor the indestructibility of the Aimpoint M68 CCO, or that big-as-a-Navy-SEAL’s-ego field-of-view unique at that time to the EOTECH Holo sight?

History of the Reflex Sight

Before we dig into the characteristics, qualities, and varieties of reflex sights, a little bit of history must come first. As time passes, the integration of digital technology into projectile weapons only continues to increase, and one should expect it to continue. While Red Dot Sights are still being accepted and integrated into handguns, it didn’t take long for Iron Sights to become a secondary option to an aiming device not designed for ranged magnification. The spiritual ancestor to what is now the norm for close range combat and defense carbines came about through the use of tritium and a curious understanding of the human brain.

The OEG, or Occluded Eye Gunsight emerged around the Vietnam war and gained recognition during the Son Tay prison raid. Unlike the conventional U.S. Armed forces of the day, the soldiers in the Special Operations could be found sporting what looked like a scope with a small red object protruding out where the objective lens would sit. However, if one looked into the OEG like a rifle scope, all they would see would be a red dot in a field of black. The OEG required the shooter to keep both eyes open, manifesting a phenomenon called collimating where one eye would see the dot the target, the other eye the dot, and the brain would superimpose the two images together. This same concept when applied to the ACOG and other prismatic optics is called the Bindon Aiming Concept.

But by 1975, Aimpoint had launched their electronic Reflex Sight by bringing battery-illuminated lighting to a bloodline of engineering dating back to 1902. By reflecting a point of light off of a layer of glass, the term “reflex sight” was born. The name stuck, however, largely due to the way it was perceived to grant lightning reflexes to the shooter.

Function and Operation

The Reflex Sight plays fewer tricks on your mind than its predecessors, but holds onto the genetic development all the same. While the OEG didn’t reflect light toward the eye of the shooter, a reflex sight uses a light-emitting diode to project a small point onto a sheet of curved glass which corresponds to the desired point of impact of the shooter. This glass has a special coating that allows most frequencies of light to pass through but reflects red light back to the shooter. The wider the frequency of reflected light, the more discolored the lens will appear.

The simplicity of a single-reference point of aim as opposed to lining up a front and rear sight allows not only for easing strain on the eyes transitioning through focal planes, but also reduces the dependency of the shooter to have perfect form. The angle of the reflection functionally affords the shooter grace when aiming, for so long as the optic was zeroed, the shooter can move their head shifting the apparent location of the dot in the optic, with minimal effect on their point of impact. There is debate, however, about how much this affects the placement of the shot, if at all.

Short comment on Parallax:

Parallax is the apparent displacement of an object when viewed from two different angles. A simple example we’ve all experienced is a speedometer in a car: viewing a speedometer from the driver’s seat will give you the correct reading, whereas when it’s seen from the passenger seat it will be wrong.

The same applies to optics, regardless of marketing claims of “parallax free”. The only time a scope or red dot will not have parallax error is if the eye is perfectly centered behind the reticle, or if the reticle is focused exactly on the targeted distance. Parallax error is largely unnoticeable at magnifications under 10x, which is why you’ll have a parallax adjustment knob on any quality scope above that magnification level.

The reflex sight developed along three main paths from there: ruggedness, size, and field of view. The rugged genome gave birth to the Aimpoint T-1 Micro, and was followed by a whole list of contenders as time passed on. Micro red dot sights (MRDS) eventually could fit on a pistol and now have surpassed trending and quickly are becoming the new normal. Contending with the EOTECH for field of view are options like the Trijicon MRO that feature a design attempting to minimize how much the body of the sight blocks the shooter’s view.

The name Red Dot Sight should not be deceiving, however. Young soldiers are probably still spreading the idea that the infamous “they” chose red because of how easy the eye picks up the dot. We’re not here to comment on that at the moment, but those for those who play Call of Duty or have some colorblindness, not every reflex sight comes exclusively in Red, and with new models arriving each year, a greater variety of reticles are appearing on the market.

Even as the technology behind optics and sights continues to explore new directions, the qualities typically found in reflex sights gives them a certain dominance in the field. Most options boast nearly excessive battery life, often marketed in the years. In trunks, closets, and gun safes across the country a T-1 Micro can be found with the light on, left that way on purpose with the confidence that the car’s battery will likely need changing first.

Few alternatives can beat a Reflex Sight in weight and durability. At the same time, Low Power Variable Optics (LPVO’s) are beginning to creep in with generous fields of view, all the while offering magnification at the turn of a dial. Holographic sights still pose a threat to the hegemony of red dots by creeping down in price with the Vortex UH-1.

The State of Reflex Sights in 2021

There’s nothing like having choices, but in 2020, we’re no longer gambling with cheap knock-offs with so many legitimate contenders on the field. Remember the three main paths from earlier? In similar fashion, the three categories of reflector-type red dot sights presented are full-size prioritizing field of view, the rugged compact optics typically featuring a 20mm aperture, and the self-defined micro section popular on pistols.

Full-Size / Field of View

From the battlefield to a boar hunt, the heart and soul of reflex sights rests in the hands of these options. Old enough to be found on retro clone builds, relics like the Aimpoint M68 CCO still garner respect, and with years of use before options like the EOTECH reached the military, the design had gone through evolutions of improvement. Spiritual successors such as the AIMPOINT PRO and Vortex SPARC have survived house fires, which is more than most of us will go through, hopefully.

Even as some evolutions sought to get smaller, the desire for full-size reflex sights remains prominent as multiple companies continue to offer reputable and dependable red dot optics with aperture hovering around that 30 mm mark.

More on Full Size Reflex Sights

• This Aimpoint PRO survived a House Fire.
• Another full-cruelty demonstration of the failing to kill a Vortex Sparc.

Rugged / Compact

Perhaps it was timing, perhaps by design, when the Aimpoint T-1 Micro hit the scene in 2007, it brought with it the YouTube torture test. Millions watched in horror and anticipation as the Reflex Sight was dropped, smashed, thrown across concrete parking lots, submerged in water, and the like, only to be returned to the rifle with minimal shift in point of impact. Number crunchers claimed a 5-year battery life and quickly the optic was spotted on carbines, pistols, and shotguns. The category-defining durability spawned a host of options, with features like solar panels, reticle choices, and a steady creep towards more and more affordable options.

The trend had caught on, and rightly deserved a place in the pantheon of excellent red dot designs. Even as Aimpoint’s T-1 and T-2 Micro continue to hold a venerable place as the category progenitor, new offshoots have arrived offered with a range of dot colors, reticles, and features like solar panels to extend battery life can be found on SIG ROMEO4T and various models by HOLOSUN. In 2020, those interested in topping a defense carbine should not overlook the whole list of contenders including the STRIIKER by Atibal, Liberator by Swampfox, SPARC AR or Crossfire by VORTEX, and the TSR by U.S. Optics, just to name a few. There was a day when the naysayers could say nay, but today is not that day.

Vortex SPARC AR as low as $199 at Optics Planet

MICRO

Distinctly miniature, Micro Red Dots were not the first ones to make it on a pistol, but their popularity as a handgun optic has multiple histories. In 1970, Jerry Barnhart Before the days of sending a pistol off to get an optic cut, the most common place to find a micro reflex sight would be on a military or competition rifle mounted in tandem with some form of magnified glass. For a time, the combination of a Trijicon ACOG accompanied with an RMR caught the envy of those outside special military units, and for those interested in 3 gun, choosing to mount a second optic on your rifle will secure you a place in the high speed and punishing open devision.

In order to achieve their size, most Micro Reflex Sights feature an exposed emitter, sacrificing durability for reduced weight and size. Subject to the elements, MRDS’s require regular cleaning and maintenance, and both water and debris threaten to put them out of commission.

The Aimpoint ACRO and Holosun HE509T-RD were both designed as a sealed system, with the intent of topping common handguns. When sorting through the many options of micro reflex sights, one must pay special attention to the footprint: the pattern of bottom face of the optic that attaches to either a pistol slide or mount for use on long guns. Some share footprints, but that’s dicy business and often a point of friction between competing manufacturers.

Shop Holosun at Optics Planet

More on Pistol Mounted Micro Red Dot Sights:

• Learn how to Master Red Dot Equipped Pistols with Mike Pannone.
• For more on the history of red dots on handguns, as well as what to do when they break, read here from Concealment 9.
• For techniques on transitioning from irons to an MRDS, read more.

Holographic Sights

In 2020, no one should be faulted for mistaking an EOTech XPS series or Vortex UH-1 as a reflex sight. The distinction between a holo sight and more traditional reflex optics is found in how they go about getting a reticle to appear for the shooter. From the outside, they look and act similar, but holographic sights bring their own characteristics to the table. Though shorter battery life and wider field of view are typical of the category, that’s not all we’ll have to say on them. Keep current and we’ll let you know when there’s more content on holographic sights.

Closing Off

Having come so far, we expect the future of the reflex sight to develop in two directions: either a constant pursuit of making them smaller, lighter, and less occluding of the shooter’s vision, or ultimately relinquishing ties to their old name by giving up the dependency on reflecting light off glass all together. We’re not sure how this second option will manifest, but if it’s anything like the video games, we’d be more than interested.

For now, reflex sights continue to dominate the trend and market of close-range, quick-draw inspiring aiming devices, at least in daylight hours. Tying them into night vision operations is still a work in progress, as a red-dot mounted pistol feel like cheating they’re so easy, while the experience is opposite when trying to line up an NVG tube with a sight sitting atop a carbine. Most, in that case, opt to use IR lasers to accommodate night vision dependent military operations.

Finally, the ecosystem of available reflex sights can quick spark more than one heated debate over which is “best.” That argument, thankfully, is waning as the level of quality found across the industry continues to rise. There was a time when one ventured onto dubious ground when looking at anything other than the higher-priced names typically known to secure government contracts, but those days are passing quickly by as more and more manufacturers continue offer reliable quality optics backed up by honest warranties. Owning a dependable reflex sight need not come at a luxury cost.

More on Optics

• LPVO vs Magnifier, Pick your Poison.
• Red Dot Sight Buyer’s Guide.
• Many of the Best 9mm Pistols for 2020 come optics-ready.
• EOTech Magnifier: Force Multipliers.
• The Holographic Sight Advantage of EOTech.
• Vortex Red Dot Sight Guide.
• Aimpoint Acro vs Holosun 509T: Battle of Sealed MRDS Optics.
• Prism Scope Versatility: The Battlefield and Beyond.

The best fishing rods usually end up being the ones you use the most because they feel right and have the most application. Each angler chooses a rod a little different based on their fishing preferences, budget, size, age, etc. So one rod never fits everyone and fortunately we have nearly an unlimited supply of fishing rod options out there.

But there are certain things that will make one rod better than another. Often it boils down to materials and processes in the rod build. But it can also come down to brand, length, action, and even price. I have felt really good after purchasing a $300 fishing rod and really bad after purchasing a $99 rod. So a low or high price doesn’t always indicate value.

So let us quickly rundown a few things we consider when evaluating what will be the best fishing rod.

What matters in a good fishing rod

Materials

Obviously some materials are just better than others. Higher modular graphite, additional carbon fiber weaves, even the resin and clear coat can affect a rod’s performance, weight and balance. So higher quality materials to start generally yield a more sensitive rod with a more consistent action that won’t roll against its spline. I tend to like a middle of the road modulus for power techniques and a higher modulus material for more contact techniques.

Price

This is the main determining factor for some folks, but I often advise if the best rod is a little above your budget, just wait a bit and save for the little bit better rod. In my experience, that little higher quality rod will last you a decade if you take care of it. So you are investing in long-term use. And we all want to enjoy our time on the water. Don’t settle for the absolute cheapest gear that is always causing you problems and aggravation on your personal time away from work and stress.

But don’t mistake this advice and believe I won’t grab a $79 rod if it feels like it’s well made and has good action and sensitivity. I have had some dynamite rods under $100 over the years. But typically speaking, I’m staying away from the $29 rods on Amazon.

Length

Length can be personal but most of the time it’s functional. Now if you are doing something like say skipping a jig, then the length of the rod matters in that a rod that is too long for your height can make the technique and process a lot harder on you. That can lead to some long-term wear injuries like should and elbow tendonitis. So consider the technique when choosing your rod length.

I like a shorter rod for techniques where I am going to jerk the rod tip downward like a jerkbait or a topwater lure. So I often reach for a 6-foot, 10-inch rod instead of a 7-foot, 4-inch rod.

Same for throwing a big lure like a deep diving crankbait. I want a longer rod that loads the bait a lot better and gives me a lot more distance on a cast. And, conversely, you want a shorter rod when you are roll casting short casts into tight quarters

Action / Power

We went into depth on rod action and power in a previous article, but to briefly recap, match the rods action to the techniques you like to fish. I will give you a basic six-rod setup in the best rods section below to cover 90% of your fishing. But you want a little more backbone in rods you have to drive a single hook. And a little less in treble hook bait fishing rods. You want more action in a rod you have to work with your hand and arm and less action in a rod where you just straight reel your lure.

Brand

Brand is another one of those personal things, but it can also be a functional thing when it comes to fishing rods because some brands have long storied histories of making good rods — like G. Loomis for example. So you know you are going to get a good rod just starting with a trusted brand. Same could be said for any product you buy.

But some brands also just fit certain anglers style of fishing. Maybe you have a thundering hookset and you require a brand that makes really heavy duty blanks — like Falcon for example. Or maybe you enjoy the more finessey and ultra sensitive type rods and you might lean towards a boutique brand like Megabass.

So brand is always a consideration, but some new brands will really surprise you with their quality and lineups — like Ark and Sixgill for example.

Types of fishing rods

Really there are two main types of conventional rods which are spinning rods and casting rods. Then from there you have specialty rods like fly fishing rods, jigging rods similar to modern day cane poles, travel rods which can be multi-piece versions of the common spinning and casting rods and more.

Spinning rod setups fish with spinning reels. This setup has the reel underneath the rod so there is no need for a grip trigger. So it’s just a straight handle with a locking foregrip to hold the reel in place. A Tennessee handle has two guides that allow you to place a reel where you feel most comfortable on the handle, and then you tape the reel in place with electrical tape. But for the most part, spinning rods incorporate a standard stem-holding reel seat that locks in place with a screw-locking forenut or rear nut.

A casting rod is built with a trigger in the handle that is on the underside and the bait casting or spin cast reel sits on top of it. These rods are made to palm a baitcasting reel in your hand as you fish and the trigger is in place to keep your hand locked on and give you a little more leverage on a hookset. You push the thumb bar to let line out and cast. It takes some practice to learn to cast a baitcaster, but these types of setups have much wider applications because they can manage larger and various types of lines better than a spinning reel can. And you can build higher gear ratio reels with stronger drags generally speaking in baitcaster setups. You basically have a lot more options with baitcasting gear.

We have covered the best rods for crappie fishing already. And we intend to cover the best rods for walleye fishing and the best rods for catfishing. And eventually the best fly fishing rods. But considering largemouth bass is the most commonly chased freshwater game fish, and a good all-around bass rod can be used to fish for trout, crappie, catfish, walleye and more. This best fishing rod list will focus primarily around bass fishing.

Best Rods for Bass Fishing

About 9 years ago, I came up with the simple 6-rod and reel system for bass fishing. You can basically have six combos of rods and reels that would cover the larger majority of bass fishing and freshwater fishing techniques. I have revamped those original articles to come up with the best fishing rods for bass fishing today.

Best Spinnerbait / Chatterbait Rods

I think a good casting rod that can handle spinnerbaits, ChatterBaits and swim jigs is very handy rod for bass fishermen. I call it the “winding rod” because these are all baits that you just wind through cover shallow. So you need some finesse to direct your bait along a letdown or through some grass stalks, but you need some back bone to drive the hook.

A 6-foot, 10-inch rod is perfect for most anglers because you roll cast a lot with these baits to specific targets and lanes. If you bomb cast more with these baits where you fish, you might want a little more length on your rod.

This rod will match well with 15-17 pound fluorocarbon line or 30-40 pound braided line depending on what baits you will throw. It can also handle some light duty frog or heavier topwaters as well.

Some guys like a medium action rod for spinnerbaits and ChatterBaits but a medium heavy rod gives you more control of the fish in tight quarters and around obstructions like laydowns, stumps, dock posts, etc.

Best Spinnerbait rods we recommend:

• G.Loomis GCX Casting Rod 6’9″ Medium 812C SBR (Best Overall)
• Lew’s Custom Speed Stick Casting Rod 6’10” Medium
• Jenko DCVR Hustler Casting Rod 6’10” Med Hvy
• Ark Brandon Cobb Series Casting Rod 6’10” Med Hvy
• Daiwa Tatula Casting Rod 6’10” Med Hvy
• Abu Garcia Pro Casting Rod 6’10” Avena MH Spinnerbait
• Halo HFX Series Casting Rod 6’10” Medium
• Shimano Zodias Casting Rod 6’10” Med Hvy

Best Jig / Worm Rods

Every bass fisherman should own a sensitive and strong jig worm rod. This rod will have a good back bone with a little bit of tip action to accurately cast worms to cover or offshore targets. Most anglers will want a Medium Heavy power and a Fast action on this combo. A little more length will give you better casting and more ability to pick up line on a long cast to set a strong hook at distance.

A longer 7-foot to 7-foot, 4-inch rod usually suffices for this technique. Medium Heavy power gives you some flexibility with casting. If you want to step up to Heavy it won’t be as accurate casting but it could double as a flipping and pitching rod too.

A 12-pound to 17-pound line fluorocarbon line is best on this rod.

Best Jig Worm Rods we Recommend:

• G. Loomis NRX+ Casting Rod 7’1″ Med Hvy 853C JWR (Best Overall)
• Abu Garcia Veritas PLX TE Casting 7’3″ MH
• 13 Fishing Meta Casting Rod 7’3″ Med Hvy
• Ark Reinforcer Series Casting Rod 7’2″ Med Hvy
• Daiwa Tatula XT Casting Rod 7’1″ Med Hvy
• St. Croix Victory Casting Rod 7’1″ Med Hvy/Fast
• St. Croix Legend Tournament Cast Rod 7’1″ Med Hvy/Fast
• Sixgill Chopper Series CHOPC608MH

Best Topwater / Jerkbait Rods

Anglers should place a lot of emphasis on a solid jerkbait / topwater rod. This is one rod where it pays to have it be higher quality. A lot of the other rods you are just holding in one place most of the day. Or you are just slowly lifting and lowering when you fish. But a good jerkbait rod needs to be very precise with its casting with hard to throw lures. And same with a topwater. And then you spend all day working the rod with lots of jerks and pauses. So a heavy rod or one that is out of balance can make for a long day of uncomfortable fishing.

This is another place where a shorter rod can help because you are constantly jerking the rod down towards the water all day. A longer rod can get problematic. A shorter rod will generally respond quicker and be lighter as a result.

A 6-foot, 6-inch to 6-foot, 10-inch rod fishes well for most anglers for jerkbaits and small topwaters. If you are going to throw bigger topwaters a little longer rod with a bit more backbone might be better.

This rod will generally have lighter line or smaller braid. Something like 10 to 12 pound fluorocarbon during jerkbait season works well, and a lighter 12-14 pound monofilament or 30 pound braid fits better for topwater season.

We already covered the best jerkbait rods in our other piece, but here is our quick rundown of some of our favorite topwater rods.

Best topwater rods we recommend:

• S.C Legend Tournament Cast Rod 6’8″ Med/X Fast (Best Overall Topwater)
• Shimano Expride B Cast Rod 6’10” Med Hvy
• G. Loomis IMX Pro Cast Rod 6’8″ Med Topwater 802 TWR
• Lew’s KVD IM8 Casting Rod 6’8″ Med Hvy
• 13 Fishing Meta Casting Rod 6’8″ Medium
• Abu Garcia Pro Rod Casting 7’4″ Lucas MH Topwater
• Daiwa Tatula Elite Casting Rod 7’4″ Med Hvy Howell

Best Crankbait Rods

Generally speaking, you will want a medium power rod with a moderate action to handle the wobble and pull of crankbaits with a lower gear-ratio reel paired with it. A 7-foot rod is a good starting place for an all-purpose crankbait rod. I will lean to a lighter medium light power and shorter rod for small shallow crankbaits and a longer medium to medium heavy power moderate action for bigger deep diving crankbaits. So a 7-foot medium is a good all-purpose middle of the road.

This rod will load when a fish sucks in the bait and give you a split second extra time for the bass to close their mouth and then load the rod to drive the hooks smoothly. You don’t have to set a hard whip crack hookset with these rods but rather just lean into the fish hard when it loads.

Normally this rod will have 10 to 12-pound fluorocarbon on it.

Best crankbait rods we recommend:

• Abu Garcia Winch Casting Rod 7′ Medium
• 13 Fishing Envy Black III Cranking Rod 7’4″ Cranking
• Ark Essence Series Casting Rod 7’4″ Med Hvy Composite
• Lew’s KVD Composite Cranking Cast Rod 7′ Medium
• St. Croix Mojo Bass Glass Cranking Rod 7’2″ Medium
• Halo HFX Series Cranking Rod 7′ Medium
• Sixgill Kranken Series KRANKC704M

Best Big Rods for Flipping / Swimbaits

A good flipping rod starts at 7-foot lengths and can go all the way to 8-foot lengths for flipping in grass. And a good swimbait rod starts at about 7-foot, 6-inch lengths and goes to 8 foot or longer lengths. I will say that most of of the time I am using a different rod for flipping than I am for throwing swimbaits.

But if you want to keep the budget to a minimum you can get by with a flipping rod that can handle 2 ounce baits. That works well for throwing baits like big soft swimbaits on Weighted Beast Hooks, or pre-rigged soft swimbaits as well as big swimbaits on lead heads like the Scottsboro Tackle swimbait on a 1-ounce head for fishing offshore.

And you can punch 1 ounce weights with small beaver baits through matted grass or pitch 3/8 ounce bullet weights with creature baits into bushes.

I like 20-25 pound fluorocarbon for flipping or a heavy braided line for flipping heavy grass. And I like a 20-pound fluorocarbon for bigger soft swimbaits and a 20-pound copolymer line for smaller hard swimbaits and glide baits.

Best Flipping Rods / Swimbait Rods we recommend:

• Sixgill Fenrir Series Flipping Stick
• Ark Invoker Pro Series Casting Rod 7’1″ Heavy
• Fitzgerald Stunner HD Casting Rod 7’3″ Heavy
• Lew’s Elite Series Casting Rod 7’4″ Heavy
• St. Croix Legend Tournament 7’3″ Hvy/X-Fast
• Daiwa Tatula XT Casting Rod 7’6″ Extra Hvy (Best dual purpose rod)
• Shimano Zodias Casting Rod 7’4″ Xtra Hvy Plus
• Jenko Fishing Savant Swimbait Rod 7’9″ Med Hvy/Fast
• Genesis III Casting Rod 8′ Swimbait Bailey Swim Heavy (Best Overall Swimbait)
• Leviathan Omega Swimbait Casting Rods

Best Spinning Rods for Finesse

The final rod every angler should have and maybe even start with when getting into bass fishing is a good spinning rod and reel combo that can handle lighter finesse techniques like Ned rigs, Neko rigs, drop shots, wacky rigs, spy baits, small swimbaits and even cranking small finesse crankbaits like Shad Raps. And this rod can also catch crappie, walleye, panfish, catfish and more. So it’s a jack of all trades rod for freshwater fishing.

A medium power rod with a fast action with a 7-foot length gets the job done for most people. And a 10 to 20-pound braided line, with a fluorocarbon leader serves almost all the purposes well.

Best All-Around Spinning Rods we recommend:

• St. Croix Victory Spinning Rod 7’1″ Med-Fast
• Shimano Poison Adrena Spinning Rod 7′ Medium
• Sixgill Myakka Series 7’2” M F
• Shimano Expride B Spin Rods 7′ Medium
• Daiwa Tatula Elite AGS Spin Rod 7’1″ Med Ehrler
• Ark Invoker Pro Series Spinning Rod 7’1″ Medium
• MEGABASS Orochi XX Spinning Rod Whipsnake 6’11”

With these 6 rods you can cover almost all of the situations in bass fishing. You will have to change lines on some reels to use these rods for double duty throughout the different seasons. But these rods can also fish a lot of other lures we didn’t mention like blade baits, frogs, spoons, etc.

So you can do a lot with these 6 rods and obviously they way one angler fishes is different from another. So you may want 4 crankbait rods and now big swimbait rod. Or you might want all spinning rods and reels. This is just a guide to the most popular techniques and the best rods for each as well as some specific suggestions on the best rods we like in each of these categories that we have personal experience with.

Other Fishing Rod Questions and Answers

1 Piece vs 2 piece fishing rods?

Used to a one-piece rod was far superior to two-piece rod because you had issues with rigidity and the ferrels fraying and breaking over time. But today’s two-piece rods have improved greatly and most of my two-piece rods are just as good as my one-piece rods but with the added benefit of being able to travel with me in a car or plane a lot easier. But generally speaking, I opt for a 1-piece for most of my main core bass fishing rods for more durability and fluid performance throughout.

What length rod is best?

I think for bass fishing, a 7-foot rod is hard to beat. Bass are fast and vicious predators so they can move quickly to take a bait and introduce slack. A 7-foot rod can take up a lot of line and drive a solid hookset even at distance. Shorter rods can be a little more precise in tight quarters and a longer rod can get you a bit more distance, but 7 feet is a great place to rest for bass fishing rods.

What rod can catch the most different types of fish?

I think a 7-foot spinning rod in a medium or medium light power and fast action can double duty as a great bass rod, crappie rod, trout rod, bluegill rod, walleye rod and even catfish rod. I wouldn’t want to fight a 30-pound blue or flathead on it. But it will catch you plenty of channel cats. But a 7-foot medium spinning rod can do a lot. A medium light can throw lighter baits for panfish better and is what I use most of the time for crappie fishing.

I also am a big advocate of bait finesse system rods now which uses lighter casting rods and bait casting reels geared specifically to throw light baits. I have caught bass, crappie, bluegill, stripers, white bass, yellow bass, shell crackers, catfish, drum and yellow perch on my bait finesse setups. While your tackle is usually on the smaller side, it’s a fun way to catch a lot of different fish species on small tackle.

Hopefully this round-up will help give you some ideas on rods for various bass fishing applications.

Congratulations! You’ve caught yourself a chicken of the woods.

These fungi are delicious, nutritious, and gigantic — it’s common to find specimens weighing several pounds. This is a stroke of good luck, but preserving such a massive mushroom can be difficult. What exactly are you going to do with it?

I’m here to break down the best ways to store your shroom according to your resources and preferences. Once you know how to store chicken of the woods correctly, you can use your summer harvest for sustenance through the winter and beyond.

Top Five Ways to Store Chicken of the Woods

1. Refrigerator Storage

Chicken of the woods will stay fresh for up to seven days in the refrigerator.

The most basic way to keep any food fresh is to keep it cold, so storing mushrooms in the fridge is a logical place to start. This method is best for people who plan to consume, give away, or otherwise use up their chicken within a week.

It is not ideal for long-term storage. The mushrooms lose flavor after two or three days, breaking down and becoming unpalatable after about a week. Of course, some people report their chickens stay good for several weeks in the fridge, but you don’t really want to risk it. If you won’t eat it soon, use a different storage method.

Think the fridge is the best choice for you? Here’s how to do it properly:

• Ensure your fridge is 40°F or colder, the safe temperature to store produce, meat, and mushrooms.
• Cut out any visible bruising on your fresh mushrooms. Bruising promotes microbial growth and causes mushrooms to spoil faster, so remove it before it can spread.
• Aside from trimming the bad parts, do not slice or process the mushrooms before storing them in the fridge. Cut mushrooms spoil faster, so begin with whole fronds or shelves instead.
• Do not wash the mushrooms before storing them; wash them before cooking. Excess moisture promotes bacterial growth. You can pick off insects with your fingers and wipe away dirt with a dry rag.
• Use a paper or mesh bag instead of a plastic bag or Tupperware. This encourages airflow around the mushrooms and helps prevent bacteria from proliferating.
• Store the mushrooms in the central part of your fridge rather than the crisper drawer. The high humidity in the crisper could promote spoilage.

2. Freezer Storage

Chicken of the woods will stay good for up to 12 months in the freezer.

Need a more long-term option? Freezing your chicken of the woods could be the perfect choice. This method is best if you have a substantial harvest you’d like to use up over the next several months.

The jury’s out on exactly how long your frozen chicken will last. The mushroom’s water content and starting quality will be significant factors, but it should last between nine and twelve months if you prep it right.

To cook or not to cook?

People often say you shouldn’t freeze raw mushrooms, which is mostly correct. The majority of fungi contain a lot of water. When frozen, the liquid expands, turning your nice meaty mushroom into a slushie.

However, chicken of the woods has a relatively low water content and will retain much of its original flavor and texture when frozen raw. Of course, the water content can still vary between specimens. Some are more moist, especially young ones. Older fruits or those exposed to a lot of sunlight are drier.

I find raw freezing preferable simply because it reduces the processing time. My only exception is when a specimen is exceptionally young and moist. Then, I parboil or sauté it in oil and white wine before freezing it so it releases some of the juices.

You might want to try both ways to see what works for you. If you freeze chickens raw, remember to cook them thoroughly before eating them — any wild food may contain pathogens, and you don’t want to ingest those!

Is freezing your method of choice? Here’s how to get the best results:

• Clean mushrooms thoroughly before freezing. You can even wash them in water, but if you do, dry them with a towel and leave them to air-dry for at least an hour before packaging them. You want to remove as much moisture as possible.
• Chop your chicken in slices about an inch thick or leave it whole according to your preferences.
• Before packaging, you can “flash-freeze” sliced chickens for a few hours on a freezer tray. This is not a true commercial-style flash-freeze and won’t prevent ice crystals from forming, but it will prevent mushroom chunks from fusing together in the freezer bag.
• Use the proper packaging. If you use containers that trap air, ice will form and ruin the mushroom’s flavor and texture. Putting chicken of the woods in a tight, airless bag and using a vacuum sealer to remove air is best. If you don’t have one, don’t sweat it. I have great results with regular freezer bags. Simply portion your mushrooms into the bags, carefully roll out all the air, seal them, and stow them away.
• Do not defrost your mushrooms before cooking since this can corrupt the texture. Instead, cook them frozen.

3. Dry Storage

Chicken of the woods will last up to five years when dried.

Drying mushrooms is one of the best ways to preserve them for long-term storage, but it does take away some cooking options from you. While mushrooms like wood ear reconstitute perfectly, chicken of the woods is another bird entirely.

Dried chicken of the woods retains flavor nicely, but the texture gets ruined when dried and reconstituted. Essentially, it becomes mush. While you can’t use it for chicken nuggets, it still makes a delicious addition to stews and sauces. You can even grind it in the blender for some delicious umami chicken of the woods spice powder.

You can dry chickens in a dehydrator, the oven, or open air. I’ve reviewed how to prep and dry fungi in my mushroom dehydration guide, which contains all the information you need to complete the process.

Think dehydration is the way to go? Here’s how to store the harvest once you’ve dried it:

• Use mason jars, Tupperware, or Ziploc bags to keep your shrooms fresh for up to a year. Keep the containers in a cool, dark place.
• Use mylar bags to keep dried mushrooms fresh for up to five years. To help extend shelf-life further, store the bags in a cool, dark place or the freezer.
• Whatever storage container you use, consider adding an oxygen absorber. These neat little packets prevent oxygen from lingering around your dried fungi and stop spoilage in its tracks.

4. Fermenting and Pickling

Chicken of the woods will last for several weeks when pickled and up to eight months when fermented.

Fermenting and pickling are both delicious preservation techniques that rely on acid to prevent microbial growth. Pickling involves submerging food in an acidic brine, while fermentation creates an acidic environment through biological processes. Either one will work well with chicken of the woods.

We’ve discussed both methods in an in-depth pickling guide, which gives you all the info you need to get started. No matter what process you choose, don’t forget to cook the mushroom beforehand. Boiling it in water for five to ten minutes will be sufficient.

Want to try your hand at fermenting or pickling chicken of the woods? Here are some helpful tips:

• Slice mushrooms into ½-inch strips before boiling. A thinner slice ensures they cook all the way through.
• Customize your brine recipe with herbs and spices to keep things interesting with distinct flavors.
• You can use mason jars for pickling, but chicken of the woods are big. To make processing them easier, consider getting yourself a pickling crock that can hold more substantial amounts of fungi. You can transfer it to jars for storage once it has fermented.
• Store pickled chicken in your fridge or a cool, dark place to make it last longer.

5. Canning

Chicken of the woods will last up to five years when canned.

Canning chicken of the woods works great for long-term storage. Cans are compact and convenient to stow away in any corner of your home. They’re easy to pop open and they last a long time. The USDA guidelines recommend keeping cans for about a year, but this is more about quality than safety. As time passes, flavor and nutrient content can decrease, but canned items shouldn’t go bad.

Keep in mind that you must use a pressure canner to can chicken of the woods. Mushrooms are a low-acid food and have the potential for deadly botulism growth. Canning them under pressure is the only way to kill these bacteria.

The only exception is if you’ve already fermented or pickled them — in this case, the acidic environment renders it safe to water-bath can them. Check out our guides on water-bath canning and pressure canning for a complete breakdown of the two processes.

Want to try your hand at canning chicken of the woods? Here are some tips for success:

• Always cook chicken of the woods before canning it.
• Add a pinch of ascorbic acid or a vitamin C tablet to your canning liquid to preserve chicken of the woods’ beautiful natural colors.
• If you enjoy canning, consider buying a pressure canner. It makes everything easier and faster and allows you to can more items safely!

Now that you know how to store chicken of the woods, you won’t be scared to harvest the next mega-mushroom you find. Armed with all the knowledge you need to preserve it, you’ll be able to enjoy the fruits of your harvest all year long.