So, you want to commission a wood and metal masterpiece, or maybe try your own hand at stockmaking. If you’re going to shell out thousands of dollars to a custom gunmaker or spend hundreds of hours of your own time inletting, shaping, and finishing a stock blank, you’ll want to use the best materials available. Which wood makes for the best gunstock?

The CriteriaHow do we define “best?” In this context we are dealing with something very subjective—but a few characteristics are clearly desirable. A high-grade gunstock must be strong, dense, possess appropriate grain flow, and be attractive.

The Traditional ChoiceEnglish Walnut has, for centuries, been the choice of top gunmakers when it came to using the best wood available. In the excellent 1941 book The Modern Gunsmith, author and gunmaker James Howe makes his preference clearly known:

“The wood par excellence is walnut, and there is no substitute.”

“…the forests of the whole Earth have paraded their finest growths only to have it firmly demonstrated that walnut is the king of them all.”

“…English walnut, is by far the best”

The Expert DeferralThough I have done a bit of stock work, and I have commissioned a few custom rifles, I am hardly an expert when it comes to wood selection. I reached out to an expert in the field that I trust: custom gunmaker Duane Wiebe. Duane has spent decades hand-building some of the finest rifles that you’ve ever laid eyes on, all with wood stocks. He also doesn’t sell wood so he has no dog in this fight.

Duane’s OpinionThe premier choice for gunstock wood is known variously as Turkish, Circassian, French, English, etc., properly called Juglans Regia…literally “Royal Walnut”.

I’ve used Juglans from Australia, Turkey, Armenia, Tazmania, China, California…the list is almost endless. Wherever walnut will grow, there’s a very good chance of finding fine stock wood.

For the bolt action stock, the choice of a proper blank is far outnumbered by the availability of wood for two piece blanks and this will be reflected in cost. Any blank must be chosen with a critical eye to proper layout. That means the grip section grain should follow as close as possible the curvature of the grip and as parallel as possible to the bore.

The fore-end wood should also closely follow the bore line both vertically and horizontally; a little deviation in grain flow upwards (viewed from the side) is actually a plus. If the grain drops off (downward) the blank is simply unsuitable- at least for a bolt action. In time, the wood will drop away from the barrel…and it will happen EVERY time.

Traditionally, quarter-sawn blanks have been the most sought after, since the figure will usually be almost the same on both sides. This is not to condemn slab sawn and some feel the slab-sawn blank is a little stronger through the grip.

Of course, everyone likes pretty wood, so if you get pretty wood with proper lay out, you better buy that blank- but only if your supplier will swear that the blank is dry and seasoned. It doesn’t take very long for stockmakers and customers to get wise to the money-hungry supplier that sells wet wood. Even then, allowing the blank to set around for a year or longer is a good practice. I weigh the blank with a sensitive scale when it first arrives and write the date and weight on the blank. A weigh-in again in six months or so will tell you right off if the wood was seasoned properly.

I know of two suppliers that absolutely will not sell wood that has not spent a minimum of five years being air-dried. Yes, there are other methods of speeding up the process, but usually frowned upon by the customer or stockmaker who wants the very best.

The RulingJuglans Regia a.k.a. English/Turkish/French Walnut, is the king of woods when it comes to building a rifle stock.

What about American Black Walnut (Juglans Nigra)?: Black Walnut makes for fine stocks, but if we return to the work of James Howe, we get to learn its place in the World. “With the one exception of Juglans Regia, it is the best stock wood extant.” Duane agrees: “For some firearms, a traditional choice would be Black Walnut…pretty good, but not usually in the class of Juglans [Regia].”

My AdviceListen to your gunmaker. If you’ve done your homework and picked a great one (the American Custom Gunmakers Guild is a good place to start your search), he or she should know what the best stock blank for your needs will be. After all, they are the one that will be putting their name on it.

How to Rig and Setup Crab Pots.

Dungeness Crabs are abundant in every bay and inlet along the Pacific Coast and are considered a summertime delicacy. The beauty of living near the saltwater and being able to head out in even a small boat and catch these tasty shellfish is not lost on thousands of people who go out crabbing every summer. I wrote this post for those of you who are new to crabbing and need a little information on what equipment you need. You can also check out our post Puget Sound Dungeness Crabbing Buying Guide for some of our favorite equipment.

A good haul of Dungeness Crab from Puget Sound. This pile will easily feed the whole family!

Crab Pots

There are many different styles of crab pots but basically you can separate them into two groups, round pots and collapsible traps.

Pots are usually geared more towards those looking to crab in deeper water or heavier currents. If you plan on trying to catch Dungeness Crab in the Pacific Ocean, where currents are strong, you want to pick up heavily weighted round pots. Pots tend to be heavier with the weight build into the frame, most weigh 10 to 20 pounds. They are also more expensive than collapsible traps. However, collapsible traps are extremely popular in areas like Puget Sound.

Collapsible traps tend to be less expensive. However, they are light weight and you need to add some pot weights so they don’t drift off. I spend most of my time crabbing in Puget Sound and the SMI/Beau Mac collapsible traps are my favorite. We typically are setting our traps in less than 80 feet of water, so a little added weight is all that is needed to keep the trap from drifting. Collapsible traps are also easier to store. If you plan on keeping your traps on your boat they are real space savers. If you are crabbing from a small boat where space is an issue, bring along the collapsible traps and assemble them one-by-one as you go!

Both traps and pots can be soaked for a long period of time. If you are planning on soaking for a few hours while fishing or overnight, traps and pots are preferred over rings.

Crab Rings

Crab rings are extremely popular, very effective, and preferred if you are looking to catch crab in shallow waters. Rings are popular with folks trying to catch crab from a dock or pier. I like to use crab rings when I am fishing in less than fifty feet. Rings lay flat on the bottom but when pulled, they create a basket that funnels crab to the bottom and keeps them there. Because a ring will simply lie on the bottom, crabs are free to come and go as they please. Fresh bait will draw them into the ring. When using rings, allowing a soak time of about 20 to 45 minutes is perfect. Crab will quickly eat away any bait. They will start searching for another food sources once the bait is gone.

Crab Trap Harness

When pulling up a crab ring, trap or pot it is important to pull it up evenly. A ring that is pulled up slanted can allow for crabs to crawl out the edge of the ring; a trap that is pulled up slanted allows crabs to potentially escape through an open door. A 3-way or 4-way harness solves this problem. These are designed to clip to the corners of a trap, or clipped evenly around a round pot or ring for a smooth and level retrieve. Harnesses are highly recommended over just tying your line to the edge of your pot/ring/trap.

Crabbing Lines

There are two options for your crabbing main line, yellow ¼ inch poly line or leaded line. Yellow poly is thinner, cheaper and it floats. Floating lines can cause problems when crabbing in an area with boat traffic. Let’s just say you have a 100’ line and decide to set your trap at a 50’ depth, lines can easily be tangled in a boat’s prop or cut off by one. If you decide to use yellow poly, be sure to clip on some weight to the line to pull it under the surface. I find snapping on a weight is a pain, and that a thin line is less comfortable to pull. Leaded lines are a little more expensive, but they offer huge benefits! Leaded line is easy to coil. You won’t have to worry about getting it tangled in someone’s prop because it sinks.

Crab Buoy

Here in Washington, we have many requirements pertaining to our crab floats. They must be half red, half white. You need to write your name and address on the buoy. They must be on the surface and visible at all times. Identifying which buoy belongs to you can be challenging at times. Use a PVC staff and either paint it a bright color or attach a flag to it, this will help you locate your pot quickly. Some folks will connect a multicolored buoy to their required red/white. I am a huge advocate of any form of customization; imagine motoring into a sea of red/white buoys and having to motor around looking for the one with your name written on it!

Bait Boxes

Bait boxes are an easy way to store bait in a trap. A bait box will slow down the crabs’ attempts to devour your bait. I prepare all of my bait boxes in advance, then I put them in a cooler so they are ready to go. Attach them permanently with wire ties or zip ties, temporarily with small bungies.

Bait Pins

If you are using a fish carcass for bait, a bait pin can be a great alternative to the bait box. Just run the pin through the mouth of a filleted out rockfish or salmon and into the bottom mesh of your ring/trap/pot.

Best Dungeness Crab Bait

Fresh baits work best. Save any filleted carcasses of salmon, trout, rockfish or lingcod because they make excellent bait for Dungeness Crab. Also, I have done very well with chicken, turkey legs and herring. One of the funnest things to do is catch flounder or sand dabs and use them in the trap.

Crab Measuring Device

Having a measuring device with you is extremely important. Every marine area has a specific minimum size requirement for crabs, and a crab measuring tool is essential. Possessing a crab that is even 1/16” under the minimum size can potentially yield you a confiscation of your entire catch and a hefty ticket.

Pot Pullers and Davits

Having an electric pot puller is nice for heavy pots or crabbing in deeper water. If you plan on doing any shrimping then you definitely need to invest in one. Even having a davit with a pulley on the boat makes pulling much easier. Plus it keeps the line from rubbing on the gunwale of the boat and keeps the pot from scratching up the side of your boat.

Electric Pot Puller Suggestions

• Scotty 2500 Electric Pot Puller – View on Amazon

I’m always amused when an angler comments, “You caught that bass on a nightcrawler?” The guy probably has used imitations for years but doubts the appeal of the real thing. More cartons of worms than any other livebait likely are sold to novices and occasional anglers. So I often wonder where along the line experienced anglers forgot how great catching bass with nightcrawlers can be.

Virtually all fish species relish live worms. That’s reasonable since worms are high in protein; easy to swallow; lack sharp spines, bones, or claws; and are easily caught. Today, nightcrawlers are the most overlooked bait by serious anglers and trophy-bass hunters.

Fishing Crawlers

Rigging: When I’m fishing for big bass, I generally hook nightcrawlers once right through the head end. They also can be hooked through the tip of the tail, allowing a natural crawling motion. You can watch your line inch away along the bottom when crawlers are rigged this way. The only drawback to tail hooking is that the worm tends to break off on the cast, sometimes even breaking off as they try to escape.

Crawlers are best fished slowly with a short stitching motion, retrieving 3 to 12 inches per stitch, or using short slow drags with pauses of several seconds in between. A cast of about 30 feet may take several minutes to retrieve, so it’s far from a search technique. If you’re fishing an area known to hold fish, let the worm make any and all movements on its own.

Recently, I’ve “discovered” an unusual rigging tactic for tricking giant bass. Actually, the technique I now call the Wad-O-Crawlers was described by a noted big-bass expert in Bart Crabb’s book, Quest for the World Record Bass. I was amazed to read that this angler used up to a dozen crawlers at a time. Sounded unnatural and basically ridiculous. I told a fishing buddy about it and we had a good laugh.

Two years ago, however, I spotted the shadow of what looked like a big catfish, and I flipped out the live crawfish I had rigged. No reaction. I hooked up four or five sickly crawlers and cast to the fish. The line jumped and I landed a 4 1/2-pound bass.

I still didn’t embrace the Wad-O-Crawlers technique until just over a year ago when I rigged with a gob to target big channel cats at San Pablo Dam. Casting to an 18-foot drop, I was soon bitten and battling a big one, but the battle didn’t quite feel like a big kitty—short hard runs, quick turns, slugs. When it ran for the surface and leapt clear, the deal was sealed—a giant largemouth of 13 pounds.

Today I often hook three or four large crawlers into a wad. I use a fluorocarbon leader and braided line, since the leader keeps the lively worms from tying the supple braid in knots. Since this is a bulky bait, don’t pack the worms into the gap of the hook. Instead, skewer each worm once through the head end, leaving the rest to squirm. Fresh worms sometimes tie themselves in knots. Untangle them for best action and a surer hookset.

In the California reservoirs I fish, I generally fish crawler wads with no weight, or sometimes a small split shot to hold the leader on the bottom. If you must add more weight for fishing deep water, in wind or current or when drifting, use a light Carolina rig. I use a 1/8- to 1/4-ounce slipsinker with a small shot a foot or so above the hook to keep the weight from sliding down to the bait.

I prefer Gamakatsu Octopus hooks for crawler fishing, matching hook size to my gear. I usually use #6 or #4 on my microlight gear, upsizing to a #2 or #1 on medium-power spinning tackle.

Continued – click on page link below.

Location: Crawlers can be fished anywhere, but they tend to draw more attention and snag less often on bottoms with sparse cover. Crawlers aren’t a good search bait because they’re fragile and also not nearly as effective when fished fast. They’re best in areas that you already know hold good numbers of bass, or a giant. They’re effective at the mouth of feeder creeks, especially after a rain, when fish move into the area, expecting a fresh food supply.

Timing: In California reservoirs, a squirming worm will produce bass every month of the year. They work best in spring, however, when big bass are actively feeding in shallow water. Crawlers also shine during the Postspawn Period when bass linger in the shallows but become reluctant to bite typical reaction baits. In our lakes, we typically observe giant submarines lazily cruising shallow flats but refusing to strike lures.

Whenever bites are extremely hard to come by, break out the crawlers. I’ve often sighted bass that wouldn’t touch a live crawdad or various artificials, but could be coaxed into picking up a live worm.

Crawler Tackle

Crawlers can be fished on tackle as heavy as a medium-heavy spinning rod with 10- or 12-pound mono, but micro-light gear in the 1- to 6-pound class is ideal for presenting these light baits naturally. When targeting trophy-size bass (over 10 pounds) near hazardous cover, I use 30-pound-test braided line on medium-power spinning tackle. But in most situations, microlight is best.

In crawler fishing, it’s critical to cast 25 to 40 feet with little or no weight. My favorite combo is a 6-foot G-Loomis SR720 rated for 1- to 4-pound line. I match that with an Abu Garcia Cardinal 300 reel that weighs 6.3 ounces or a similar-size Pinnacle model. A velvet-smooth drag is essential. I favor Tuff-Line Plus micro-braid rated at 12-pound test but with the diameter of 2-pound mono. Of course, if that spider web-like braid hits a sharp rock, it’s back to 2-pound test.

Braid casts like a dream and matches my rod and reel perfectly. I use a Seaguar fluorocarbon leader 3 to 4 feet long of 8- or 10-pound test, attached to my main line with a blood knot. The leader not only increases abrasion resistance near the bait, but also decreases visibility and keeps the crawler in line. With my heavier combos, I use a 15- or 20-pound-test fluorocarbon leader on 30-pound braid.

When anglers ask if that rig is tough enough to deal with a 10- to 15-pound bass, I tell them of the day on Clear Lake when a buddy and I landed 935 pounds of channel cats, 70 pounds of brown bullheads and white cats, plus around 500 pounds of carp on microlight rigs.

Crawler Care

Worms should be kept fresh and lively—they need to be cool during storage and while fishing. At home, the crisper in your fridge works great. North Country anglers might get away with a cool basement or garage, but beware of hot spells. For transportation and while fishing, a cooler or special crawler carrier works fine.

Similarly, hooked crawlers stay lively much longer in cool water. If a crawler becomes limp, replace it with a fresh one. If it’s still alive, place it in a separate container. After several days in good worm bedding, worms usually are good to go for another round of fishing.

Many anglers won’t break down and use livebait, particularly worms, which they perceive as not being the coolest way to catch fish. Crawlers are for novices, right? The more people who believe that, the better the odds will be for those who know better. I’ve always felt that catching the biggest fish in my waters, using whatever methods are legal and sporting, is the coolest and most logical choice.

*Fish Chris Wolfgram, Suisun City, California, is a dedicated chaser of all big fish, particularly California’s giant largemouths. Check his trophy bass Web site, www.trophybassonly.com.

Record Fish

Every angler considers bigger fish to be better in some way. The desire to catch bigger fish keeps the sport fresh for many people and for some, it’s the only reason they keep making casts or heading offshore. Here are some of the biggest fish ever caught in saltwater and the anglers who managed to bring them in.

What’s the Biggest Marlin Ever Caught?

When it comes to the largest marlin ever caught there can be a few different answers. The biggest marlin ever caught on rod and reel was a blue marlin out of Oahu, Hawaii. In 1970, a party of anglers fishing on the Coreene C, with Captain Cornelius Choy caught a blue marlin that weighed 1,805 pounds. This incredible fish became known as “Choy’s Monster” and hasn’t been broken for over 50 years.

The other answer for the largest marlin ever caught is a black marlin that was caught on August 4, 1953, by Alfred Glassell, Jr. This black marlin is the world record marlin according to IGFA rules. Regardless of rules this marlin is one of the one of the greatest catches in fishing the history. The black marlin was caught in Cabo Blanco, Peru, on the boat “Petrel” which was captained by Stirling Stuart. The record setting fish weighed in at 1,560 pounds and 14 and a half feet long.

What’s the Biggest Swordfish Ever Caught?

Back on May 7, 1953, Louis E. Marron caught the World Record swordfish while fishing in Iquique, Chile. Louis was fishing with his wife Genie, aboard a boat named “Flying Heart III” which was captained by Eddie Wall. This giant swordfish weighed 1,182 pounds and is still the IGFA all tackle world record.

What’s the Biggest Tuna Ever Caught?

For the largest tuna ever caught, we found both the bluefin and yellowfin world records. According to the IGFA, the bluefin tuna world record is currently held by Ken Fraser. On October 26, 1979, fishing with Captain Eric Samson on “Lady and Misty” from Port Hood, Nova Scotia, Ken managed to land a monster bluefin tuna weighing 1,496 pounds. This weight was taken after the fish had been dehydrating in the boat for nearly 10 hours.

The IGFA world record for the biggest yellowfin tuna was landed by Guy Yacom while fishing in Mexico on September 18th, 2012. This record-setting fish weighed an incredible 427 pounds. While it was not caught on rod and reel, a bigger yellowfin weighing 480 pounds was speared in 2018.

What’s the Biggest Grouper Ever Caught?

The goliath grouper is the largest grouper species in the world which means that naturally it’s responsible for the world record. The IGFA world record goliath grouper was caught May 20th, 1961 by Lynn Joyner in Fernandina Beach, Florida. This world record fish weighed an incredible 680 pounds and is unlikely to be broken with current laws banning anglers from targeting this fish or handling them outside of the water.

What’s the biggest Tarpon Ever Caught?

Finally the largest tarpon ever caught was taken off the coast of Rubane, Guinea-Bissau, Africa by Max Domecq. According to the IGFA records this inshore giant weighed 286 pounds, 9 ounces and likely was well over seven feet in length. While a story of an even bigger tarpon has come to light recently, it was not officially weighed but instead, it was released safely back into the ocean.

Great for Small Fish

Ugly Stik Elite

Length Tested: 5′ | Casting Weight: 1/32-1/4 oz

If you need a well-built, lightweight fishing rod that’s easy to tote to your favorite fishing hole, look no further than the Ugly Stik Elite. Don’t let its small size fool you. It’s perfectly strong and has impressive fighting power, which was proven on several occasions when we hauled in fish that were seemingly too big for this rod. This Ugly Stik was also versatile enough for different fishing styles, whether it be dropping a hook with a worm on it or just casting with a lure. It was also one of the best when it came to balancing, sitting comfortably in our hands all day long.

Although the upsides were plentiful, there were a few downsides to consider. This rod is on the small side, so the casting distance takes a hit. This is to be expected due to the rod’s size, but it’s still something to think about if most of your fishing involves casting. It also has a fairly short handle, which made two-handed use a little more difficult. Overall, this rod was a pleasure to use. So, if you need a small rod that can handle the rigors of everyday fishing, you might want to give the Ugly Stik Elite a try.

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Why You Should Trust Us

Our testing grounds were June Lake, California, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the California coast, where our lead tester fished from both shorelines and boats to determine how each rod performed in different environments. Dozens of fish were hooked in the process of testing these rods, helping us decipher key performance differences between each product. Each fishing rod was taken out into the field to gain impressions about the features, as well as the versatility and portability. Professional anglers were also consulted, and their feedback was taken into consideration. We then put each rod up against the others to figure out where each one ranked in the test. The rankings and recommendations found in this review were informed by our in-depth comparisons and field testing.

Kit Smith, our lead reviewer, has been fishing for most of his life. He grew up fishing for salmon and halibut in the San Francisco Bay and the nearby Pacific Ocean. He also spent time fishing streams and lakes in Bear Valley, a small mountain town in the Central Sierras, where his family had a cabin. Later, he continued perfecting his angling craft in Colorado, where he attended college.

Analysis and Test Results

During testing, we measured each rod on five metrics: Balance/Feel, Features, Portability, Construction, and Versatility. We lay out each below and highlight some top performers in each area.

Value

As the old adage goes: When you buy cheap, you buy twice. Case in point here is the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. Its glass tip broke after a few uses, and we had to order another one. We didn’t have any problems with the second rod, so we’ll chalk it up to getting a lemon. Overall, we ended up really enjoying this rod for its versatility, portability, and exceptional balance. The real stand-out for its great price-to-performance ratio is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning Rod, which is ultra-affordable and surprised us with its great functionality on the water. The Daiwa Megaforce Tele Spin is a bit pricier, but overall, it’s a well-constructed, highly portable rod with great casting capabilities that is a good value we think most fishermen would be happy with.

Balance & Feel

A rod’s balance is a crucial component to consider. It not only helps with casting, but it also makes fishing a whole lot more comfortable. If the balance is off, the weight of the rod will be shifted to the rod tip or handle, and you’ll notice it. Feel is also an important metric here. Feel comes down to the sensitivity of the rod. If a rod has a great feel, you can sense the smallest bites and the action of a lure in the water.

While telescoping rods don’t traditionally provide great balance and feel, the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was an exception. It was extremely comfortable to fish with and let us sense every little movement in the water.

As far as the most well-balanced and sensitive rod goes, the St. Croix Triumph Travel and the Ugly Stik Elite were neck and neck. While the St. Croix Triumph Travel is the most balanced and sensitive fishing rod we tested, letting you feel everything that was happening underwater, the Ugly Stik was right there with it. It helped us feel the tiniest nibbles and set the hook like a pro.

Features

This metric is sometimes overlooked when considering a fishing rod. Sure, you can get the job done without all the bells and whistles, but smart features can make the experience even better. What kind of features are we talking about? Things like a cork grip, hook holder, and oversize guides. But having a lot of features doesn’t automatically make it a winner here. They have to be features that really work and add to the fishing experience. This category’s standout is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning, with an abundance of useful features. A couple of our favorites? The oversize ceramic guides helped guide the line smoothly for long casts, and the double locking structure on the reel seat held the reel tightly in place and never loosed up, even after bumpy boat rides.

With our favorite handle, the Cadence Fishing CR5 Spinning Rod also proved strong in this metric. Some of these rods have foam handles, but this one features a premium cork handle that fits perfectly in hand and makes all-day fishing comfort a reality. The High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic packed plenty of features, too. We especially liked the hook keeper that lets you store your hook while moving between fishing holes.

Portability

This is a crucial metric if you plan on traveling with your rod. Of course, it’s hard to beat a telescoping rod for portability, but some of the two-piece rods we tested were quite easy to take apart and put back together. The Cadence Fishing CR5 was one of these, and it made transporting a breeze.

One of the most portable rods we tested was the High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic. It was one of the lightest and easiest to transport of our test fleet. But many of the other telescoping rods were just as portable, including the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic and the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. If portability is important to you, we suggest trying out one of these rods.

Construction

While this isn’t the most exciting metric, it does make a big difference in how well a rod works. Depending on the material, you can get more sensitivity, strength, and fighting power. On top of that, the construction may be what determines if a rod lasts ten days or ten years.

There were a few standouts in this metric. The Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was clearly built to last among the telescopic poles. Its carbon fiber construction combines strength and sensitivity to pick up little nibbles on our bait.

The true king of construction, though, is the St. Croix Triumph Travel. Built with a unique graphite fiber, this rod provided incredible sensitivity and fighting power. Of course, that quality doesn’t come cheap — it also comes with a high price tag.

Versatility

Another important metric to consider is versatility. And in this category, not all rods are created equal. Some are specifically made for fishing off the bottom of a lake, while others are made just for casting in saltwater environments.

The KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic is a clear winner here. With its equally great performance in both fresh and saltwater, exceptional casting distance and sensitivity, and impressive fighting power, it can handle everything from small trout to large sea bass.

In comparison, while it’s built with quality in mind, the Ugly Stik Elite is really only made for freshwater fishing. Its fast action and light power design were clear indications of this. With that said, its versatility score took a hit.

Conclusion

Selecting the right fishing rod puts the odds more in your favor. Your personal fishing style is an important consideration. Do you plan to spend most of your days dropping a line off a boat, or will you be casting from the shoreline more often? Whatever it is, there’s a rod here designed just for you. We hope this article has been helpful in selecting a new rod. So, plan that next fishing trip, get out there, and snag that trophy fish.

Welcome to my review of the best rangefinders with built-in ballistics calculators.

Technology has come a long way in improving the overall user experience of a variety of different pieces of outdoor gear. Rangefinders have greatly benefited from these advancements in technological capabilities as many shooters are now using them to calculate long distance shots in both hunting and competitive shooting.

Many hunters in the field and competitive shooters have a limited number of shots—often only one—to make an accurate shot on their target. Having a rangefinder with a built-in ballistics calculator goes a long way in helping the user make the right calls and compensate for things like angles and other factors that can influence the path of your bullet.

Highest Rated Rangefinders with Built In Ballistics Calculators

If you’re looking for a rangefinder that offers a built-in ballistics calculator, expect to spend a bit more money as these models typically have much more features than your average version. We’ve combed through some of the most reputable brands and best models to compile this list of the best rangefinders with built-in ballistics calculators.

Leupold RX-2800 TBR Laser Rangefinder

Leupold is among the best in the business when it comes to making high-quality rangefinders that are equipped with ballistics calculators. Their RX-2800 TBR Laser Rangefinder offers exceptional levels of ballistics calculations, as well as a number of other top-end features that sets this one apart from the rest on our list.

This rangefinder is made with Leupold’s True Ballistic Range with Wind (TBR-W) technology which is able to account for inclines and declines, as well as range to target, and other ballistics information. This feature works alongside the continuous scanning mode that lets users range a number of different objects while they’re looking across their line of sight.

The Leupold RX-2800 TBR Laser Rangefinder offers 3 different reticle options for increased customization and is fully waterproof, fog proof and is also backed by the company’s Gold Ring 2-year warranty. All things considered, this one is tough to beat for users seeking a great rangefinder with a built-in ballistics calculator.

Leica Rangemaster CRF 2800.COM Compact Laser Rangefinder

Leica is a company that has long been at the top of the rangefinder industry because of their ability to produce exceptional products that out-perform most other competitors. Their Rangemaster CRF 2800.COM Compact Laser Rangefinder is capable of immediately calculating ballistics ranges and plenty of other information in the blink of an eye.

This rangefinder makes a strong case for being the best product that also offers built-in ballistics calculation, but it works alongside a smartphone app, which might not always function as it should. Leica’s headline model features automatic brightness control which provides clear and razor-sharp images and guarantees reliable reading of distances and the ballistic output values.

It’s able to calculate these ballistics values based on the caliber, bullet type, trajectory and weight of the user’s cartridge.

Related: Best Long Range Shooting Rangefinders

Sig Sauer Kilo 1800 BDX

Sig Sauer is a brand that’s well-known for listening to what outdoor enthusiasts need and then working to deliver exactly what they want. Their Sig Sauer Kilo 1800 BDX rangefinder is among the best you’ll find in 2024. This rangefinder is made with their patented Ballistics Data Xchange system which works with Sig Sauer BDX riflescopes to provide exceptional levels of accuracy when it comes to computing ballistics.

One drawback to this product is that it only works with the BDX scopes, but that shouldn’t be a reason for most users to turn this model down. The Sig Sauer Kilo 1800 BDX works with the BDX riflescope to provide an automatic illuminated holdover dot through Bluetooth pairing.

According to the Sig Sauer website, “ the onboard Applied Ballistics Ultralite calculator sends ballistic drop data via Bluetooth directly to the SIERRA3BDX’s BDX-R1 reticle, providing an illuminated holdover dot and wind hold.”

In addition to the BDX features, this model is packed with plenty of other capabilities and components that make it a clear choice for users looking to get their hands on the latest and greatest rangefinder technology.

Vortex Optics Ranger 1800

We’ve come to expect top notch products for a more reasonable price from the Vortex brand and the Vortex Optics Ranger 1800 is no exception. This rangefinder offers built-in ballistics calculation and can be purchased for around $500 in most cases.

This rangefinder is an exceptionally well-made product that offers a lot of features, including ballistics calculation that works by Line of Sight mode (LOS) which is intended for shooters who are using ballistic drop data cards, ballistic calculation apps, or PDAs with ballistic programs and are shooting at distances beyond 500 yards.

Competitive shooters are especially fond of this rangefinder as it can easily be used in conjunction with devices that calculate bullet wind drifts under steep slopes or long-range conditions as doing this will greatly increase your accuracy.

Bushnell Elite Rangefinder

If you’re in the market for a more budget-friendly rangefinder that still offers ballistics calculation, look no further than the Bushnell Elite Rangefinder. This rangefinder is available for under $400 in most cases and offers everything you need in relation to ballistics calculation, especially for hunters.

It operates with CONX technology which operates using a laser that wirelessly communicates with the CONX app on both iOS and Android platforms and allows configuration via smartphones. Users can load up to three custom ballistics curves using this app calculator. As with other rangefinder models, the Bushnell Elite can be used in conjunction with certain wind meters to accurately calculate the effect that wind speed and direction might have in relation to your shot angle and other factors.

This rangefinder also offers Arc Rifle mode, which provides bullet-drop and holdover data, and also allows sight-in distance options of 100, 150, 200 or 300 yards. The Bushnell Elite is capable of ranging targets out to 1 mile (1,760 yards) and is capable of working in continuous scanning mode to range multiple targets in one sweep.

If you are interested in more rangefinder content, we have another post on the best hunting rangefinders of 2024, right here. Click the link to read more!

Conclusion: Top Rated Rangefinders With Ballistic Calculator

Those are the best of the best if you want a rangefinder that has an internal calculator. Thank you for reading and good luck in the field!

By Paul Carlson

I’m probably not telling you anything that you don’t already know, but shooting handguns is fun. Do you want to take that fun to the next level? Then shooting them with slide-mounted red dot optics is the answer, and the reason is simple — it’s easier to get hits.

Today, I’m reviewing the new HEX Dragonfly optic that can make shooting easier than using traditional “notch and post” sighting systems. Regardless of your stance on the red dot vs. iron sights argument, we know that getting hits is the key to really enjoying a shooting session.

The popularity of slide-mounted red dots isn’t just some random phenomenon. Instead, it has been based on a consistent improvement in technology and innovation over the years, as well as an understanding of the shooting issues people may face. As a result, it seems that dots are everywhere these days, and there are some very good reasons why. In this article, we are going to be looking at the Dragonfly. But first, let’s consider why you might need a red dot optic.

The Why

Regardless of the sight radius of your gun, using a red dot on your pistol can help you shoot with more precision and accuracy, especially at distance. A moderately sized dot, say around 3.5 MOA, allows you to refine your aiming point and repeatedly put rounds on a small area of the target. At the same time, you are provided with feedback on the movement of your gun by the dot on the optic’s window before you even press the trigger. That feedback generates a faster learning curve when it comes to getting hits at distance.

And when it comes to getting hits, being able to use a refined aiming point is always an advantage. But, depending on lighting conditions, sometimes it can be hard to pick up your iron sights. That’s not the case with an electronic red dot optic. Red dots, especially either with manual brightness settings for fine-tuning or auto-adjusting ones that react to ambient light on their own, make it easier to aim regardless of the lighting conditions.

Another major advantage of a red dot is the ability to “target focus,” which allows you to focus on your target rather than your sights. The principle is simple enough. The sight’s emitter projects a dot onto a glass lens that’s right on top of your handgun slide. Despite the fact that the projected dot is just a couple of feet away from your eyes, your brain imagines that the dot is at the same distance as your target.

With a red dot, you never have to shift your focus from the sight to the target, or conversely from the target to the sight. Just look at your target, and the dot will be superimposed right where you need it. This applies to the red dot both on a pistol as noted, or also on a long gun.

All the Buzz?

So, let’s get back to that HEX optic I mentioned. The red dot is the HEX Dragonfly, and it’s a standard-sized red dot electronic optic designed with full-sized handguns as well as long guns in mind. Featuring the “Springfield Standard” footprint shared with the Vortex Venom and Burris FastFire, the Dragonfly is designed with durability and ease of use in mind.

Frankly, when I think of what’s important for an optic, reliability is at the top of the list. Life and death situations require solutions that are dependable, and the Dragonfly is designed with dependability in mind. The Dragonfly features a beefy housing that is machined from 6061 T6 aluminum, and it is thick. Topped off with Hardcoat anodizing, this optic is built to withstand the abuse of recoil and a whole host of hardships. And within this rugged housing is a scratch-resistant, anti-glare-coated glass lens for the 3.5 MOA red dot. Springfield’s choice of durable materials and coatings set the stage for the duty-ready nature of the Dragonfly.

Simple Choices

When it comes to ease of use, the Dragonfly has everything you need. The red dot ships with a Picatinny mount for attaching the optic to a long gun, and as mentioned uses the Springfield Standard footprint for mounting to handgun slides. To mount onto a pistol like the XD-M Elite, you simply mount a Springfield #1 plate to the pistol along with the included sealing plate and then mount the optic. Easy. Oh, and matching up with the optic’s durability is an IPX7 waterproof rating, meaning the optic can be submerged in water up to one meter for 30 minutes.

When it comes to using up the Dragonfly, it’s an easy process as well. The Dragonfly depends on a single button to control the emitter. One press turns the dot on to the lowest brightness setting. Each push cycles the dot’s brightness up through the eight different settings, and one more push turns the optic off.

All the functions are on a single button. It doesn’t get any easier than that.

The Dragonfly runs off of a single, bottom-loading CR2032 button battery that is included with the red dot. It’s a common cell, easy to find at your local store, and it lasts. The single battery will run for more than 100,000 hours (or three years according to the HEX website). To improve power consumption, the optic cycles off after 16 hours. When you turn your optic on, you select the brightness level. The Dragonfly remains at the brightness you chose until you change it or the optic turns off.

The Dragonfly’s housing features a hood that extends out in front of the glass lens. This serves as a shield to protect the glass from impacts and adds further protection for the lens if the optic’s face were to come into contact with anything. Finally, the rear of the housing is serrated to help reduce the glare, which helps the shooter focus on the dot.

Clearly, the HEX Dragonfly has an impressive feature set, especially when you consider that its MSRP is just $249.

HEX Dragonfly Specifications

Range Time

I had a chance to get some range time with the Dragonfly mounted on top of a Springfield Armory XD-M Elite Tactical OSP 4.5” 9mm as well as an XD-M Elite 3.8” Compact OSP 9mm, and it shot great on both. The Dragonfly was easy to track. On presentation, all it took was some intentional pressure from my pinkies, and the dot dropped into the window right where I wanted it. With each trigger press, the 3.5 MOA dot would lift and then drop right back to the point of aim.

Regarding adjustments, that single button is really the way to go when it comes to setting the brightness. No complicated button press combinations to remember to lock the brightness in. Simply set it and forget it.

Also, the Dragonfly has plenty of adjustments when it comes to windage and elevation. The sight features 160 MOA windage and elevation adjustments. I especially like that the clicks are audible and tactile, and they can be easily made with a 9mm case. I had the Dragonfly zeroed in no time, and it has remained zeroed since. Check out Gunspot’s article on how to sight in a red dot for a quick way to sight in your optic.

Conclusion

While there are plenty of red dot sights out there from which to choose, Springfield Armory’s HEX stands out. The Dragonfly is a very reasonably priced optic, but with premium build quality and features. I have no doubt that the Dragonfly will serve you well, whether you are mounting it on a handgun or a long gun. It can handle all the hard knocks you can throw at it on the range, at the match or in the field. If you have been wondering if a red dot belongs on your gun, the HEX Dragonfly certainly deserves a look.

Editor’s Note: Be sure to check out The Armory Life Forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in!

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If you want see the Staccato P in action, check out the video review above.

As always, you can head over to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube for more guns and gear.

Recently, Staccato came out with a 2011 pistol called P.

While marketing included a mixture of approaches, it was clear the P was at least partially intended for law enforcement.

Staccato claims the P is approved for duty use by more than 460 law enforcement agencies.

I think we can agree, calling a weapon duty rated sets a high standard.

Backed by over 22 years in law enforcement, the last seven of which I served as a POST-certified handgun instructor, I intended to test the P for myself and find out if it merited that ranking.

So read on as we walk you through the specs, talk about the features, and head out to the range with this gun to find out what it’s truly capable of.

Feeling lazy to read the article? We’ve summarized the pros and cons for you.

Staccato P: Pros & Cons

Pros

• Very accurate
• Great trigger
• Low recoil

Cons

• High MSRP
• Expensive magazines

What is the Staccato P?

So, after 100 years added to a gun’s legacy, how did Staccato evolve the 1911? What are the main differences?

First off, the general aesthetic is still the same.

Those familiar with the lines of the 1911 will recognize that DNA in the 2011.

The first big difference you notice is the grip. I’ve always appreciated the narrow but hefty feel of John Moses Browning’s beauty, but the grip on the Staccato is much thicker.

This accommodates the double-stacked, 9mm magazines. When you dig into the gun and take it apart, you notice some major differences.

The frame offers either a steel or aluminum build with a polymer exterior. This allows for increased capacity and helps mitigate some of the recoil.

Plus, the outer texture is grippy. It’s got a raised pattern like an all-terrain tire that really hooks up in your palms.

In addition, there’s no barrel bushing. Shooters compress the guide rod and spring until a clip sticks out. This catches on the end of the muzzle and locks the compressed spring in place for removal.

This is called the Dawson Precision tool-less guide rod and it is a much-appreciated improvement.

The safety and hammer are still there as is the slide stop and the skeletonized trigger gives the impression of a higher-end 1911.

Ergonomics

Let’s talk ergonomics!

First off, the grip is really big. I wear a 2X glove and I had to make adjustments. While I could reach the mag release, I couldn’t reach the slide stop lever without adjusting my grip.

It is manageable, but police agencies are a lot more diverse nowadays and can’t follow the 6 foot or better hiring practices of old. Small-handed officers might struggle with this gun a bit at first but I think the rewards would offset this.

The P has an ambidextrous safety, but the mag release is currently only on the left side.

Interestingly, I found myself leaning more toward the aluminum frame for preference. Then again, I don’t wear a leather duty belt anymore.

The steel frame P weighed 2 pounds, 3 ounces on my digital scale, while the aluminum was 1 pound and 14 ounces.

To the Range!

There were a couple of questions I set out to answer with this test.

I wanted to see how the 2011 was improved for the average officer on the street and if Staccato was able to keep some of the qualities I loved about the 1911 while improving some of its shortcomings.

I carried a 1911 on duty which means I hold it in the highest regard. But it doesn’t mean the gun couldn’t stand some improvements.

I practically ran to the range when the Staccatos came in — that’s right, I said Staccatos.

They sent two Ps, an aluminum frame, and a steel frame. Before all was said and done, I tested both and developed some preferences.

Starting out though, I ran the aluminum frame with a Holosun 507c optic and the steel frame with the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro.

I’m a huge fan of both of these red dots. (Want more red dots? Check out our article on the Best Pistol Red Dots.)

After testing began, one thing became clear right out of the gate — I’m not used to external safeties anymore!

It took some practice to implement that into my draw stroke again.

The P comes with a slide lock safety and a grip safety.

There’s a philosophy associated with these, particularly as it applies to law enforcement — they serve as the final layers of officer safety, should de-escalation and weapon retention tactics fail.

With a good grip established, I started banging away. Going back to a hammer-fired gun is like reuniting with an old, familiar, lover.

Gone was the achingly long, sometimes squishy, trigger pull so commonly associated with striker-fired guns.

Nope, this was sheer point and click joy with a short, crisp break and reset.

Mine averaged just over 2.5 pounds on a Lyman Digital Gauge, though Staccato lists it as 4 pounds.

Looking back down Memory Lane, I used to love how well I grouped shots with my 1911.

I attributed much of that performance to the trigger and it felt like the Staccato P would repeat that.

Accuracy

At 15 feet I fired off three shots for accuracy. The first and last went through the same hole but I threw the middle shot about an inch away.

Accuracy is strong with the P.

Another impression I had was loving the magazines and their added capacity. The P comes with three magazines — two are 17 rounders and the third is 20.

This means officers can walk around with 20+1 in their holster and another 34 rounds in mag pouches. That first magazine is often the most important, for obvious reasons.

Moving onto reliability, I fired right around 1,000 rounds through each gun using American Eagle and Blazer, both at 115 grains. I also ran some 124 grain SAR USA ammo through the guns.

With the exception of two stovepipes, the guns ran flawlessly. I was able to pin this down to one box of Blazer ammo and it did not happen again.

I ran different drills from my academy curriculum during testing and really began to appreciate this new breed of gun – an evolved fighting pistol with a pedigree.

In short, both Staccatos were fantastic.

For a full breakdown on the P’s…breakdown, see our Disassembly and Reassembly video below.

By the Numbers

Ergonomics: 4/5

The grip is really big, even though I wear a 2X glove, I had to make adjustments. Smaller-handed shooters might struggle a bit. Overall, though, it’s pretty comfortable.

Reliability: 4.5/5

I really believe the two stovepipes I experienced were ammo-induced because they didn’t happen again during the course of testing. Otherwise, the Ps were perfect.

Accuracy: 5/5

These guns are at least as accurate as my 1911. The excellent trigger, combined with the red dots, (the fiber optic sights are nice too) really helps with getting on target.

Add in the 4.4-inch bull barrel and you’ve got a solid package that will deliver laser-like fire if you do your part.

Value: 4/5

The Staccato P is expensive. The standard version is $2,099 while the optics ready version will set you back $2,399.

Compared to a polymer, striker-fired gun, this might seem outrageous, but in the world of higher-end 1911s it’s entry-level to average.

Overall: 5/5

This is an outstanding firearm. I feel like Staccato honored the past of the 1911 with due reverence while vastly modernizing the design to fit the challenging role officers face today.

Upgrades & Accessories for Staccato P

You’ll definitely want a nice pistol light with your Staccato. And for that we usually go with our gold standard…the Surefire X300. Be sure to get the B model since that works the best with metal framed handguns.

As for optics…check out our Best Pistol Red Dots but otherwise we loved using a Holosun 507C and Deltapoint Pro in our test.

Now how about even more customization straight from Staccato themselves? They’ve recently unleashed their CONFIGURATOR for the P…and we’ve got our hands on one of the first ones.

More options will be rolled out…but we went with some custom lasering, DLC and threaded barrel, plus some front serrations.

It looks great especially with the DLC black barrel. You can also customize the grip for more grip but we stayed with the standard.

And how did it run suppressed? We’re only a few hundred rounds in but so far it’s been 100% and we love the suppressor height sights.

Next step is to get the correct optic plate for this P and then get shooting!

Holster-wise, I recommend the Tenicor Certum3 IWB/AIWB. This holster will get you where you need to go with the Staccato.

Field Strip & Reassembly

Don’t want to mess up your P? Check out our quick video to field strip and put it all back together again.

Conclusion

You might wonder how this information applies to the civilian customer, and to me that’s pretty simple.

Whether you love, hate, or feel indifferent about law enforcement, they can at a moment’s notice, be called upon to use a firearm to save their own life or that of someone else.

To me, this means the equipment they use must be of the highest quality — Staccato meets that standard.

Citizens wanting to harness the P for their own protection needs would be well advised to do so.

The accuracy, reliability, and capacity are top-notch.

Admittedly, factors like the overall size and magwell would make it a little tough to conceal, but it could be done. I could easily envision the P serving in a dedicated home defender role too.

Again, check out the full video review below.

Also please note Staccato offers a discount on the P to active duty law enforcement, veterans and first responders through their Heroes Program.

Have you tried a 2011 pistol? Would you be willing to try one out? Let us know in the comments below and make sure to check out our review of Staccato’s XC and XL models too!