1:9, 1:8, or a 1:7?

When it comes to AR-15 barrels…you may be noticing different rifle twists in their specs.

Does it really matter that much?

Will the wrong weight bullet for your twist rate make it fly off into the sunset?

It does matter, but I’m here to make your decision easy and help you understand what it all means.

Bullet Weight Does Not Dictate Barrel Twist

The first thing that needs to be understood is that bullet weight does not directly have anything to do with what rifle twist you should be using in your AR15 barrel chambered in 5.56 NATO or .223 Wylde.

Now before some people start pounding their table, and grabbing pitchforks, let me explain.

Bullet length is what ultimately dictates your barrel rifling twist. If you do a quick google image search, you will find a few different charts or graphs that specifically show bullet weight and which rifle twist you “need”.

While it is a general rule of thumb with weight, in reality, the longer a bullet is, the heavier it becomes.

With newer types of bullets on the market and lead-free designs, some bullets made of copper and zinc are very light but require extra length to achieve the same weight compared to a lead core projectile.

So, the longer the bullet you shoot, generally speaking, the faster the rifling twist needs to be to properly stabilize the bullet in flight. With great stability comes great accuracy. But what does the barrel twist mean?

A Cliff Notes History Lesson

In the early years of the AR15’s development, the rifling twist that was adopted was a 1:14 rifle twist.

The easiest way to explain what that means is that the rifling makes a complete twist 1 time every 14″. Most loads shot through these barrels were a very short, lightweight bullet in the 40-55 grain category.

You can read a more complete history of the M16, but for now, let’s fast forward to the present.

After the adoption of the M16A2, the military started using a 1:7 rifle twist, which was faster. The rifling made a complete revolution within 7″ now instead of 14.” We are talking twice as fast.

The military also adopted a longer, heavier projectile with the SS109 steel core projectiles loaded in the M855 cartridge.

Capitalism at Its Finest

So why are there multiple rifle twists on the civilian market with the 1:9, 1:8, and the 1:7 as stated before?

Short answer: Capitalism.

If you are a red-blooded American, you enjoy the perks of capitalism.

The one drawback of capitalism though is that the market breeds more choices and more decisions. A lot of barrel manufacturers sell all of the top three rifle twists in their barrels, and it can be a little daunting when you are trying to figure out which one to get.

We covered the fact that you need to properly stabilize a bullet, and we have covered a quick history of different rifle twists. Stick with me here, because I am going to make this a very easy decision for you.

A Lot of Bad Info

Out in the unnatural world of the interwebs, you can run into a lot of bad information regarding practically anything. Rifle twist and bullet choice are no different.

When it comes to slower rifle twist, i.e. 1:14, 1:12, 1:9, you really shouldn’t be shooting bullet weights over 65 grains or the equivalent length for a 65-grain bullet. It won’t damage your rifle, but you will have very poor accuracy.

It is absolutely true that heavier, longer bullets in the 69-85 grain flavors like faster rifle twists of 1:8, or 1:7. When someone tells you, “if you want to shoot some operator level Mk262 77 grain OTM ammo, you need a 1:7 twist”, believe that they have your best interest at heart.

But what about an all-purpose twist you may ask?

Maybe you are just like me, and you want a barrel twist that can excel with the heavier 77 grain or 85-grain loads, BUT at the same time you want to get out and smoke some woodchucks or prairie dogs, and you would like a 40-grain bullet to shoot accurately?

Can you “over-stabilize” a lighter bullet with too fast of a rifling twist?

Shoot, Switch Ammo, Repeat

I decided to run through a little experiment with multiple loads of .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO. Ten different loads to be exact. And to make this even more scientific, I did it with two different rifles that both have a 1:7 rifle twist.

The first rifle that I tested is a home-rolled rifle that utilizes a Radical Barrels, LLC 20″ 416R stainless barrel. Rick Hoffmeyer of Radical Barrels, LLC made it for me, and it’s a fantastic barrel.

The optic on this rifle is an ACME Machine 6-24x50mm FFP TR-MOA. For the price, it is hard to beat for a first-focal-plane optic.

The second rifle is a factory Bushmaster Minimalist that Remington had me use on a hog hunt down in Texas at the Spike Box Ranch. (If you ever get offered a chance to go there, don’t think about it. DO IT.) The only thing I added to this rifle was an ACME Machine 1-8x28mm FFP low-powered variable optic.

Glass clarity on this scope is impressive, to say the least. Both rifles used scope mounts from Green Blob Outdoors, and for the price, are exceptionally solid scope mounts that lock down tight.

From the lightest grain bullet to heaviest shot was:

• Hornady 40 Grain V-Max
• Winchester 45 Grain JHP
• Federal 50 Grain JHP (Varming & Predator)
• Remington UMC 50 Grain JHP
• Tul-Ammo 55 grain FMJ (Just for the hell of it.)
• Barnes 55 Grain TSX
• Remington 55 Grain PSP
• Barnes 62 Grain TSX
• IMI 77 Grain OTM Razorcore
• Barnes 85 Grain OTM

Moment of Truth

With ten different loads, all varying from the lightest/shortest to the heaviest/longest projectile that will fit inside the mag well of an AR15, I went about firing 3 round groups with each load at 100 yards to test how well each bullet would do.

I fully understand that some purists may be wringing their hands in the air because I did not do 5 shot groups. I get it. When I really test accuracy for a specific load, I fire 5-10 round groups to really see its potential.

The reality of the situation is that I have kids to feed, and a wife that will literally stab me to death in my sleep if I drain my bank account for ammo. She showed me the knife…

While this isn’t a comprehensive accuracy test for each load, this test shows a good representation of the accuracy potential for each load out of a 1:7 rifle twist barrel.

As you can see from the included photos, there was absolutely no loss of accuracy from an “over-stabilized” lighter/shorter bullet.

Both rifles tend to shoot roughly the same point of impact, varying across the whole spectrum of bullet lengths and weights at 100 yards.

Some conventional “wisdom” would dictate that my accuracy should have suffered greatly with the shorter/lighter bullets with a faster 1:7 rifle twist or worst case scenario tumble through the air and keyhole the target. This just isn’t the case.

Within the normal ranges that most shooters fire their rifles, bullet length and twist should not be a concern if you have a faster 1:7 rifle twist.

What should be a concern though, is feeding your rifle quality ammunition, and making sure your barrel is of good quality if you are striving for accuracy. Ultimately, that is the deciding factor of accuracy when using a 1:7 rifle twist.

Decisions, decisions…

So its time to pay the piper, and make a decision on the rifling twist that will best suit your needs as a shooter. My vote is a 1:7, hands down. With a 1:7 rifle twist, shooting quality ammo, you can go as light as you would like with commercially available ammunition.

A case could be made that “over-stabilization” can bring about issues at extended ranges, but why would you honestly shoot a 40-grain projectile past 300 yards? If you are actually trying for accuracy at extended ranges of 300-700 yards, a 69-85 grain bullet is much better suited for the task at hand.

For up-close shooting drills, or within 300 yards, bulk 55 grain M193 will do just fine as well out of a quality barrel when you are on a budget.

Obviously, your mileage may vary, but generally speaking, if a load shoots like a dumpster fire, more than likely, your barrel just doesn’t like that specific mixture of powder weight and bullet style.

In my opinion, it just makes sense to stick with a 1:7 rifle twist! And now that you know how twist rates affect you, you’ll want to know what the Best AR-15 Ammo: Home Defense & Range is for you and your rifle.

What twist rate is your barrel in? What is your favorite ammo? Let us know in the comments!

Put glide baits to use when you find that next big fall blitz of bass and blues.

There’s nothing quite like standing on shore with hundreds or thousands of fish blasting bait out of the water mere feet in front of me. The energy, chaos and visual aspects of an inshore “blitz” are intoxicating. Conversely, often the most frustrating days fishing are when I have a seemingly endless glut of fish in front of me but I cannot catch a single one! Sometimes I could almost reach down and grab them, but cast after cast, they snub my offering and leave me ready to throw my rod into the surf. A similar scenario, albeit somewhat less frustrating, is when I see large fish slashing and attacking bait, yet all I’m catching is small schoolies.

This seems to happen more than one would think. If you have a few years fishing the salt under your belt, you may have experienced it. However, I always believe there’s a way around it; after all, the fish are there and feeding with reckless abandon, so the hard part is taken care of. Yet, despite the fish not taking their offering, some anglers insist on just casting the same plug or two over and over into the melee, hoping something will change. What they are thinking I can only guess, but I believe they assume that because the fish are feeding aggressively that it’s just a matter of time before they catch something.

This is not a good tactic. Waiting for the fish to cooperate is inviting the skunk—you need to go on the offensive and figure out what they want. Even if I’m catching a fish every handful of casts in a blitz, I’m not content. If the fish are going bananas at my feet, I should be hooking up every cast. One way I have recently begun to increase my catch numbers in these classic fall blitzes is to fish glide baits heavily. Sometimes called stick baits, these plugs are the perfect blitz busting plugs.

Glide baits originated in freshwater fishing—specifically musky fishing—and they quickly became popular with fishermen at the Cape Cod Canal. While they have proven to be extremely successful for anglers up and down the coast, they remain somewhat underutilized by the masses. So much so, I believe I’m letting you in on a personal secret that allows me to out-fish poppers, tins and swimmers by as much as 20 to 1.

Why Glide Baits?

First, glide baits are versatile. Many assume they are only good for areas with current. This is inaccurate. I use them everywhere: on sand beaches, in boulder fields, in big surf, and calm backwaters. The glide baits I use can be fished many different ways: fast and loose, or slow and low, and everything in-between. This is a huge advantage over the ubiquitous poppers used by most anglers during day time blitzes—glide baits can be implemented essentially anywhere, at any time. During a daytime blitz, I start by fishing glide baits with a moderate retrieve and a rapid tip action similar to how I work a pencil, but with smaller jerks of the rod. This puts the glide bait just below the surface, or waking on the surface, making a lot of commotion. Worked with slower tip action, the plug will begin to shoot rhythmically back and forth subsurface, like an underwater spook plug. The action will vary with the specific plug you’re using, but this hyper-erratic motion seems to really draw the fish when surface plugs and swimmers are coming up short.

I also rely heavily on working both small and large glide baits slowly with sharp, random, jerks and twitches. This seems especially effective if stripers and blues are on bunker, or larger baits, where the predators sit below the forage fish waiting for the injured individuals to fall out of the school. Casting a glide bait out, letting it sink for a moment (or longer!) and then working it slowly with erratic twitches, seems to be irresistible to cow bass, and I have landed more than a few big fish using this technique. Just hold on when you twitch it, because that’s nearly always when the hit comes, and it is often violent!

Next, glide baits are deep, big-profile plugs. Even if you’re using the small 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, it is relatively deep for its length. This is in contrast to many other plugs like the SP minnow or a pencil popper, which are slender profiles. This can be a huge advantage if the fish are on deep-bodied baits such as peanut bunker, adult bunker, snapper blues, mullet, etc. However, even if they aren’t, the deeper profile can attract the attention necessary to garner a strike when the surf is a proverbial soup of bait and predators. For example, I was on a spearing blitz last year where the fish were especially picky. Poppers and bucktails were useless, and while I could get them to hit an SP Minnow, the cast-to-hook-up ratio was only about 10:1. Frustrated, I put on a small glide bait and began hooking-up every cast. In this situation, I believe the glide bait was cutting through the noise and making itself seen.

Further, the fat, large profile of a glide bait seems to attract bigger fish. This past September I was fishing a blitz where bass were attacking silver-dollar sized peanut bunker. The bass would roll into the surf riding the white water of a wave, and I only had a short moment to cast to them before they sped back out to deeper water. I started with a small spook plug, and I was immediately into schoolies on every cast. After catching a couple dozen, I began to get bored, and decided to try a glide bait. My first cast was rewarded with a fish pushing 15 pounds, and I landed several more to low-teens. This repeated for three days in a row—schoolies on spooks and poppers, bigger fish on glide baits. I would have had no idea if I hadn’t decided to try the glide bait. It always pays to experiment.

Another key to the blitz-busting capacity of the glide bait is they cast phenomenally. They are no tin, but they cast about as far as a comparable popper. And the larger sizes cast as well as the smaller sizes if used with properly-sized gear. This makes them especially effective if you find yourself on an adult bunker blitz, but the fish are on an outer bar, or if you’re casting into a strong on-shore wind. While a metal lip might be a perfect plug when the fish are on big bunker, good luck casting one into a 30mph on-shore wind. And if the fish won’t take a popper, glide baits offer a similar profile as a metal lip and easily cast twice or three times the distance. Add in the versatility in which you can fish them, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a plug that is better suited for these “bait on the bar” situations.

Finally, glide baits offer another advantage in blitz situations: they can be fished with single trebles or two inline hooks. Whichever you use, it makes no difference in the action or fishablility of the plug, and may even slightly increase the casting distance. When I’m fortunate enough to be in a blitz situation, I want to be able to get the fish off the plug as quickly and safely as possible so I can get back in on the action fast. Fishing with a single hook makes releases much easier on the angler and fish. Wasting time unhooking rear trebles from smaller fish is especially frustrating, and has led to more than a few injuries to my hands and the fish.

Glide Bait Options

I mainly rely on readily-available plastic glide baits. In my plug bag you’ll find the following: the suspending 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, the 1-1/2-ounce Savage Gear Freestyler, the 3-1/4-ounce Freestyler (a personal favorite), and the 3- and 4-ounce slow-sink Sebile Stick Shadds. Sebile offers a staggering array of sizes and weights, and I have used others than those listed, but find the above to be my favorites. It is easy to pack several of these plugs as even the largest slides between the tubes in most surf bags.

A few notes about these plugs. The small Sebile is not through-wired so one must be cautious with drag pressure. I’ve yet to break one, but I’ve bent the hanger substantially even on smaller fish. However, it is the perfect peanut imitator, and worth its small space in your bag. The Savage Gear Freestyler plugs are overall my favorite. They are inexpensive, come with two sets of strong forged hooks and have a thick profile that produces excellent action. For me, they are the more versatile of the two brands. Savage is coming out with a new line of Mackerel glide baits this fall that look phenomenal, but I have yet to test them. The larger Sebiles in slow-sink still sink faster than the Savages, but they cast better, and the increased sink rate makes them useful in a strong surf or current sweep. The fast-sink models are less useful where I fish, but have their time and place in Nor’Easter storm situations.

In addition to the glide baits produced by Sebile and Savage Gear as noted above, several other manufacturers produce similar plugs in plastic form. The Yo-Zuri Diving Slider was produced with pelagics in mind so it has the strength to stand up to most inshore gamefish and produces a great sub-surface side-to-side swim. Rapala produces several glide baits in the X-Rap Saltwater SubWalk, X-Rap Twitchin’ Minnow and X-Rap Long Cast Shallow, Williamson makes the SubSurface Pro, Strategic Angler produces some great crossover glides that work both inshore and off, and Tsunami will be introducing the Surface Striker this winter. On the wooden side, glide baits have become the “in” lure for garage builders to produce the last few years. Several options include glides produced by Fatty Lures, Loki Lures, Surf Asylum, RM Smith and others.

The list goes on and on for plastic and wooden glide baits, so don’t be afraid to try different manufacturers to see what works best for you; just make sure you have a few of these versatile plugs in your bag for the last of the late fall blitzes!

The best crossbow scope in 2024 is the Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope.

It does everything right, nothing wrong, and comes in at a more than fair price.

To start with, I made a shortlist. All the best crossbow scopes have excellent feedback from a significant number of online reviewers. Once investigated, I removed some due to negative feedback on other sites. I was left with the following six options:

• NIKW9 Prostaff P3 Crossbow 3×32 Matte BDC 60
• UTG 4X32 1″ Crossbow Scope, Pro 5-Step RGB Reticle, QD Rings
• Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope
• Hawke Crossbow 1.5-5X32 IR SR Scope with Illuminated Circles, Matte
• Excalibur Tact-Zone Illuminated Scope, 2.5-6x32mm
• TRUGLO Crossbow Scope 4X32 with Rings APG

When you buy a new crossbow, unfortunately, a lot of the built-in scopes often lack quality. It’s good to do some research and budget a little extra for a top crossbow scope.

Maybe you have the best crossbow in the world, but it defeats the point if your scope fails at a particular distance or particular light level.

I’ve done a considerable amount of research into the latest best crossbow scopes. Before we dig into the reviews, I’m going to share all the essential information you need to make the best decision when buying a scope.

Understanding the best crossbow scopes

How do they work?

Not all of the best crossbow scopes will have all of these features, but most will. I’ve summarised the main parts briefly, starting from the back of your scope:

Ocular lens

The ocular lens focuses the light which comes in through the front end of the scope (the objective lens) so that you can focus on it with your eye. Good scopes apply finishes to the ocular lens, which repel water and improve light intake.

Eye piece

This part holds the ocular lens in place.

Diopter adjustment

At the rear of your scope right above the eye-piece is the diopter adjustment. This might be the only real adjustment on a lot of crossbow scopes. It allows you to sharpen your scoped image by getting your reticles clear.

In essence, it compensates for differences between your own two eyes. Lots of beginners don’t even realize they can adjust this!

Power ring

The power ring is the gear that you twist to change the magnification of the target through your sight.

You only find this on variable scopes. If you have a fixed-power scope, you won’t have this. (More on the differences later)

Scope tube

The bridge between the ocular lens and the objective lens, which is one long piece of metal.

The scope tube is where you’ll fix the scope rings or base, to attach the scope to your crossbow.

They come in 1-inch and 30mm tube diameters. 30mm tubes can only be used with 30-mm scope rings and 1-inch with 1-inch.

Objective bell

The objective bell is the part of the scope which increases in size from the scope tube to the objective lens diameter.

Focus lens

In the objective bell there’s a focus lens which helps focus objects in the scope.

Erector tube

The erector tube sits in the objective bell in front of the objective lens. It houses both the magnification lenses and the reticle.

Reticle

The reticle is the part of the sight with markings like crosshairs, a target dot, or chevrons to shoot several distances.

If the reticle sits in front of the magnification lenses, it will also change in size as the magnification is altered on variable scopes. This is generally better as you don’t have to make a manual adjustment.

Objective lens

The objective lens gathers light from around the target you are sighting.

A larger lens means more light comes in, and a more full viewing area through your scope. The objective lens can be quite heavy though, so if it gets too big it can compromise weight and balance. This shouldn’t be an issue for scopes in the best crossbow scopes review below, though.

Cool tip: when you see a scope description, you can tell the objective lens size. For example “a 3×32 scope” means three times magnification with an objective lens of 32mm.

Scope base and scope rings

You attach your scope to the crossbow using a scope base or scope rings.

Types of Scope

Fixed-power scopes

Fixed-power scopes are the opposite of variable scopes, that’s to say you can’t change the level of magnification of your targets.

A good crossbow magnification level is anywhere from 3x to 6x magnification; dependent on the game size and hunting distance.

For example, 3x magnification is great for small game over short to medium distances, like turkey hunting. If you go for any more, you’re going to struggle to find the turkey amongst the foliage!

People will boast about stronger magnification, but it’s likely you won’t need any more than 3x.

Variable scopes

A variable scope allows you to change the magnification as needed. This isn’t without its difficulties though, as you will need to regularly zero in. This means resetting the scope at that magnification every time you change zoom.

Even worse is if you have what’s called a ‘second-focal-plane scope’. In that case, if you change magnification, the reticle won’t change with it. You’d have to sight-in the crossbow again so that your distance markers are correct.

If you use a first-focal-plane scope (typically more expensive), the reticle and the image move together, so the crosshairs will adjust with the magnification, avoiding this problem.

If you can, it’s better to set the scope magnification for your whole hunting session and not change it again. Instead, you can use your crosshairs or dots to shoot varying distances. It’s not comfortable to keep changing on the go.

Speed-adjusted scopes

Some manufacturers have started to include another dial for you to input your bow’s FPS. I liked this feature on the Excalibur Tact-Zone, but it was confusing on the Hawke 1.5-5X32.

What to do with a new crossbow?

Mount it

When you get your new scope, first you’ll want to attach it to the rail assembly on the bow, securing it with scope rings. Be sure that there’s no movement in the scope from recoil when shooting.

You can read about how to mount your scope here. I recommend getting it fixed by a professional if you’re not sure what you’re doing. It’s an important job because you want it to be perfectly aligned, which involves a trial-and-error process to get it perfect.

Sight it in

‘Sighting-in’ is matching the POA (point of aim) with the crossbows point of impact (POI) for a given range.

It can be really tedious the first few times you do it, but it gets easier with practice. It’s an exercise of trial and error aiming and firing at a fixed point until you get it right.

Again, if you’re unsure we recommend you take it to a pro shop, to ensure it matches up over all distances.

Zero it

This is only for adjustable scopes, where you reset the scope to place the middle of the crosshairs at your new “sighted-in” point of aim. You’ll do this every time you change the magnification.

Minutes of Angle (MOA): learning to adjust while shooting

MOA refers to the number of clicks necessary to adjust the scope to account for windage and elevation.

If you have a 1/4-inch MOA, you’ll need four clicks to move the scope an inch over 100 yards.

Ensure you factor in distance though! If you’re only 50 yards away, you’d need double the clicks (8) to adjust the scope correctly.

1/8, 1/4 or 1/2-inch MOAs are appropriate for a crossbow. A lower MOA gives you more precise adjustments but means you’ll have to spin the adjustment gear more to make it.

Cool tip: Scopes have writing on them to let you know the MOA, i.e., “1/2 MOA per click.”

What features do the best crossbow scopes have?

Spending money on a quality scope will buy you a sturdier more durable scope which lasts longer. It will cost you less in the long term. Consider the following features when purchasing your scope:

Magnification

Magnification is how many times bigger you want the target to be through the scope.

Length

Length is measured from the front of the objective lens to the back of the eye-piece. A more extended scope means higher magnification.

It isn’t necessarily the best because of trade-off in weight and profile. It’s more important to have a scope relative to what you’re hunting and the distance at which you’re shooting.

Illumination

Some scopes have an illumination feature: a dial with rear-stat settings for a little dot in green or red.

An illuminated reticle brightens the reticle so that you can better see your crosshairs or other markers. It’s excellent in tricky lighting and helps to improve accuracy.

Is it necessary? No. Is it sometimes helpful? Yes, depending on the situation.

No stray light

Sometimes as light reflects off the metal of a scope, the glare can enter the lens and distract the shooter.

Get a scope with an interior coating to prevent reflection on the metal from external light. Otherwise, it makes it harder to make out the target.

Exit pupil

A measure of the amount of light which reaches your eye through the scope when shooting.

Field of view

Field of view refers to the width of your view when looking down your scope. If you sight-in at 150 yards, you might have a 20-yard wide field of view.

Field of view depends on magnification and focal length of the lenses. More magnification means less field of view.

Center-tube (or scope tube) diameter

The 1-inch tube size is popular in America, and the 30-mm is more prevalent in Europe. There’s a commonly misheld belief that 30-mm tubes let in a little more light, but it does have a thicker wall for better strength and durability.

Configuration Simplicity

Intuitive and straightforward adjustment options for no faff when scoping in. IMPORTANT!

Weatherproof

Is your scope good in all climates? Make sure your scope’s fog proof and waterproof. The distinct advantage is that your lens is clearer for shooting. But you’ll also avoid future repair costs or just giving up and buying another.

Good warranty

Does it have a lifetime warranty? Lots do these days, so find out.

Eye relief

Typically measured in inches, eye relief refers to the distance between the lens and the eye that you sight with. You need sufficient eye relief so that you don’t hit your eye against the scope when you fire.

Realistically, this is more appropriate for firearms due to their higher recoil.

It does make sense to account for it though. If there’s too much or too little eye relief, you might not be able to focus on the target (and have to re-fix your scope!)

Scope accessories

Many of the following come standard with bows. Check yours before you buy:

Scope caps

An additional but worthwhile accessory to protect the lenses on your scopes.

Several types exist, like flip-up caps and elastic caps. They live on the scope and are only taken off to hunt/shoot.

Scope cloths

Take care of lenses with a good scope cloth or lens pen to gently remove smudges.

Scope Rings

Most scopes include rings so that you can mount the scope immediately.

The Best Crossbow Scope Reviews

NIKW9 Prostaff P3 Crossbow 3×32 Review (Matte BDC 60)

Nikon is well known for its optical performance, and this scope is an excellent example of their quality.

The Prostaff P3 is a 3x fixed-magnification scope with a proprietary ‘BDC’ reticle. It’s designed to maximize the range and efficiency of hunting crossbows.

Despite no illumination, there are no reports of difficulty in low light levels. It has anti-reflective compounds on every glass surface, which help to provide bright and vivid images and excellent light transmission. Many reviews point out the quality of its crisp image.

Nikon has tested the BDC 60 reticle extensively, with a variety of bolts, point weights and crossbow speeds. It has aiming points which reach out to as much as 80+ yards.

Reticle changes are made in 1-inch adjustments which make an excellent click. There’s a neat little button to reset the windage and elevation adjustments to 0, so it’s considerably easier to make adjustments on the go.

The all-metal scope has been made of high-quality materials. The main tube is made of one-inch aircraft-grade aluminium as has the quick-focus eye-piece.

One thing of note: according to one review, if you shoot a fast crossbow there’s a chance the yardage markers (point of aim) on the reticle won’t line up precisely with your point of impact.

Pros

• Instantly reset turrets to zero
• Great for the price
• Great light
• Accurate
• Consistent
• Good build quality

Cons

• No illumination
• May fail to sight-in at high FPS

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

UTG 4X32 1-Inch Crossbow Scope Review

The UTG 4×32 has a 4x magnification fixed-power scope with a respectable 27.2-foot field of view and high-quality image thanks to its broadband lens coating.

The UTG has an MOA of a 1/4 inch. There are several reviews of people taking a long time to sight it in, although others had no problems.

The scope is built on a True Strength Platform which uses smart spherical structures to achieve windage/elevation adjustments and strong recoil resistance.

Like the Prostaff P3, this scope also has a reset to 0 button on the windage/elevation adjustments to help sight-in.

The reticle includes five horizontal lines calibrated at 300FPS so that you can quick-aim out to fifty yards. You can also control a red/green dual illumination from a side wheel on the side of the scope. It’s great for hunting in different lighting conditions.

Two things that were liked and commented heavily are how forgiving the eye relief is, and the flip-open lens caps that come with it.

Pros

• Generous field of view
• High-quality image
• Instantly reset turrets to zero
• Forgiving eye relief
• Comes with flip-open lens caps and low profile quick detach ring mounts

Cons

• Some issues sighting-in

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope Review

The Hawke 3×32 seems to be a remarkably good scope choice for hunters of all abilities.

Unless you hunt at long distances, its 3x fixed-power scope is plenty magnification. The 3x magnification and design gives it an excellent field of view at 33.3 feet.

So many reviews commented on just how crisp and clear the image is with a sharp edge-to-edge focus.

The ballistic reticle has laser-sharp illumination, which can be switched on and off. The fantastic 5-setting rheostat illumination comes in red or green and doesn’t produce that ghosting effect you find with cheaper reticles.

The reticle features illuminated hollow circles instead of crosshairs which I quite like because they don’t cover the intended POI. The circle is supposed to be a 2″ kill zone at the corresponding distance. It also has left-right hairlines representing 12 inches and 24 inches.

The scopes 315 FPS calibration point worried me that high-performance crossbows might struggle to sight-in correctly. Hawke, however, has taken this into account. The new model is calibrated at 340 FPS, and Hawke says this will work with crossbows reaching speeds of as much as 475 FPS.

The optics are multi-coated to protect against fogging and liquids, and there are no reports of this being the case.

The scope even features resettable turrets like the first two, and really can’t do much wrong.

Pros

• Great customer support
• Excellent field of view
• Bright and crisp wide-angle image for edge to edge clarity and sharp focus
• Best crossbow scope for low light
• Weatherproof

Cons

• Doesn’t come with scope rings

Special Mentions

• Best Crossbow Scope for the money

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Hawke Crossbow 1.5-5X32 IR SR Scope Review

Hawke’s variable scope is also proving to be a massive hit, which speaks volumes for the brand.

The Hawke 1.5-5X32’s precision reticle offers aim points at 10-yard intervals from 20 to 100 yards. It has five crosses – not illuminated circles as they advertise in the name – corresponding to yards 20-60, and postmarks for yards 70-100. Only the IR model has crosses which light-up.

This scope, like the fixed-power version, has excellent feedback for sighting-in. Once you configure the speed selector ring – on which you can input speeds anywhere from 250 to 425 FPS – you will hit all your yard markers accurately.

The speed selector ring, however, is a frustration for several buyers. After all, it’s advertised as a 5x scope, but in reality, you can’t set the zoom level you desire. Instead, you have to input your crossbow FPS, which will automatically adjust to the zoom level necessary.

So technically it is a 5x scope as if you set 425 FPS you will zoom in to 5x. It can be incredibly annoying if you want to set the FPS correctly to your crossbow because you can’t achieve the maximum advertised zoom.

The reticle offers red and green illumination in five levels of brightness (SR model). The one-inch optics are fully multi-coated for high levels of light transmission.

The 1/2-inch MOA is crisp thanks to the no-snag fingertip turrets.

Pros

• Great customer support
• Bright and crisp wide-angle image for edge to edge clarity
• Great accuracy after easy setup
• Solid illumination and sharp focus

Cons

• Not really a 5x scope (see above)
• Doesn’t come with scope rings

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Excalibur Tact-Zone Illuminated Scope Review (2.5-6x32mm)

The ultra-compact Tact-Zone from Excalibur has a 2.5-6x magnification variable zoom. It comes as standard on the whole Excalibur Matrix series of crossbows.

The scope is adjustable to speeds from 275 DPS to 410 FPS, and unlike the Hawke 1.5-5×32 above, the speed adjustment is independent to the zoom adjustment.

It features a new updated reticle design for tact-zone. The new reticle does an excellent job of lining up bolt POI with POA up to 60 yards out, for any given arrow speed.

The scope features 1/2-click MOA adjustments for sighting-in and a 30mm tube for added strength. It holds up well against the elements, be it rain, fog or knocks from dropping it.

The reticle has red/green rheostat illumination and a multi-coated lens for exceptional clarity. The lenses are also protected by flip-up caps, although numerous buyers decide to replace them citing that they’re a little bit tacky.

Pros

• Crossbow speed adjustment ring for easy configuration
• Weatherproof and shockproof

Cons

• May struggle on high-performance crossbows over 410 FPS
• Cheap lens covers

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

TRUGLO Crossbow Scope 4X32 Review with Rings APG

The TruGlo 4×32 is a fixed-power 4x magnification scope. The old-school reticle – although not illuminated as some people report – is designed for range finding and trajectory compensation.

The fully coated lenses provide brightness, clarity and contrast, and despite not being illuminated, plenty of buyers state just how well it works in low-light levels.

What people like about the scope are the rubber eye-guard and generous 4-inch eye relief. It has a durable leaf spring for windage and elevation adjustments located under screw down caps.

The manufacturer claims that the scope is weatherproof, but I’ve read 5+ reports of the scope fogging up. If you do have issues with it, the customer service at TruGlo doesn’t seem to be great, so it may be better to purchase through Amazon.

All in all, there are more impressive scopes out there, but this one is great for those with reduced budgets. Nonetheless, the scope has garnered a whole heap of really positive reviews from Amazon.

Pros

• Good crossbow scope for the money
• Old-school reticle if that’s what you like
• Great for dawn/dusk hunters

Cons

• May fog up
• Poor customer service

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Best Crossbow Scopes: Conclusion

My opinion is that the best scope for 2024 is the Hawke 3×32 IR crossbow scope. It’s thanks to its excellent field of view, crisp edge to edge image, reliability in all conditions and solid illumination.

If you’re keen on a variable scope, then you have a toss-up between the Hawke 1.5-5×32 (my choice), and the Excalibur Tact-Zone. Unless your conditions favour it, I don’t believe a variable scope is necessary for crossbow shooting.

Of the two, the Hawke seems a better option for overall quality. That said, some people are put off by the magnification dial issue which controls zoom based on the crossbow FPS. If that’s the case for you, then you should choose the Excalibur Tact-Zone.

Who makes the best crossbow scope?

Based on my research, it looks like Hawke is the best at making consistently good variable and fixed-power crossbow scopes.

Sandhill crane hunting is more popular than ever, with hunters drawn to the challenge and reward of “The Rib Eye of the Sky.” In North America, there are six subspecies of sandhill cranes. Three are non-migratory, staying in one area year-round. The other three are migratory and travel from Northern Canada to Mexico. Seventeen U.S. states are sandhill crane hunting states. Still, federal regulations set the stage for anyone who wants to pursue them. There are some requirements and a critical program with which to register. After that, it’s up to you to decide where you want to go hunting.

Federal Laws for Sandhill Crane Hunting

Sandhill crane hunting is subject to most federal waterfowl regulations. These rules include using shotguns to take with a maximum capacity of three shells and only using a nontoxic shot. The federal government also prohibits using live decoys, hunting from vehicles, or using bait to draw in sandhill cranes.

All sandhill crane hunters must register in the Harvest Information Program (HIP) for migratory game birds. You can do this through the state’s wildlife department you plan to hunt in. Although it is a federal program, some states require you to register with them.

Suppose you have been duck or goose hunting before. In that case, you know about the Federal Migratory Bird Hunting and Conservation Stamp, commonly referred to as the Federal Duck Stamp. Some state regulations do not require the Duck Stamp for sandhill cranes.

In contrast, others explicitly say it is necessary. Defer to the state wildlife department you plan to hunt in to make sure. Now that the countrywide rules have been made clear, it’s time to list the states that allow sandhill crane hunting within their borders.

Alabama

If you’re looking for sandhill cranes in Alabama, you better go north into the Tennessee River Valley or the Weiss Reservoir on the Coosa River. Alabama offers sandhill crane hunting for Alabama residents in the northern part of the state through an annual draw. The season bag limit is three.

Licenses Required:

• Alabama hunting license
• Annual State Duck Stamp or Lifetime Duck Stamp
• Alabama Sandhill Crane permit
• Sandhill Crane Identification certification

Alaska

Most sandhill cranes in Alaska migrate through the Copper River Delta or the Tanana Valley near Delta Junction-Georgia Lake. As many as 50,000 cranes fly through this Alaskan funnel daily, many from Siberia. Sandhill cranes are subject to fall/winter hunting season dates based on the specific Alaskan Unit you are hunting in. All units have a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Alaskan hunting license

Arizona

Sandhill cranes go way back in Arizonan history. People still find ancient petroglyphs of these birds etched into stones along the Gila River. Arizona offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw. The Grand Canyon State issued a total of 580 tags for the 2021-22 season, with a season bag limit of three.

Licenses Required:

• Arizona Migratory Bird Stamp
• Arizona Sandhill Crane permit

Colorado

Colorado offers an open sandhill crane hunting season. Sandhills are the only species of crane found in the Rocky Mountain State. Before the first hunting trip of the season, hunters must call 1-877-COLOHIP or register at ColoHIP.com and obtain permit numbers. All areas east of the Continental Divide except North Park and the San Luis Valley are available for sandhill crane hunting from Oct. 1 – Nov. 27, 2022, with a daily bag limit of three.

Licenses Required:

• Colorado Small Game license
• Colorado Sandhill Crane permit

Idaho

Idaho’s vast plains and valleys are a significant stop along the sandhill crane migratory route. The state holds sandhill crane hunting seasons in the eastern part through an annual draw. In 2021, the state of Idaho issued 610 sandhill crane tags with seasons running throughout September. The daily and season limit is two cranes.

Licenses Required:

• Idaho hunting license
• Idaho Sandhill Crane tag

Kansas

Sandhill crane hunting is available in the central and western Kansas zones during the fall and winter months. The daily bag limit for sandhill cranes in Kansas is three. The Kansas crane hunting season dates have the same start and duration from year to year.

The Western Zone Season begins on the third Saturday in October and continues for 58 days, including the opening day. The Central Zone Season will commence on the Wednesday after the first Saturday in November and shall continue for 58 days, including the opening day.

Licenses Required:

• Kansas Sandhill Crane permit

Kentucky

There is an annual draw for Kentucky sandhill crane permits, with applications opening and closing in September. The season runs through December and January with a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Kentucky hunting license
• Kentucky Sandhill Crane permit

Minnesota

Sandhill cranes used to thrive in the Great Lakes region until humans settled down there. There are two separate populations in Minnesota today. Minnesota offers an open sandhill crane hunting season in the northwest portion of the state. The sandhill crane season runs from Sept. 18 – Oct. 24, with a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Minnesota small game license
• Minnesota Sandhill Crane permit

Montana

Montana has sandhill crane hunting in select areas through permits issued in an annual draw. The Montana season runs from Sept. 1 – Oct. 30, with a bag limit of either one or two depending on the specific area the permit is issued for.

Licenses Required:

• MT Migratory License
• Conservation License
• Base Hunting License

New Mexico

New Mexico offers Free Regular Season Eastern Sandhill Crane permits and a Draw-Season Sandhill Crane permit. In 2021, New Mexico issued 540 Draw-Season sandhill crane permits. The daily bag limit is three.

License Requirements:

• Harvest Information Program (HIP) registration
• Game Hunting License or Game Hunting & Fishing License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

North Dakota

North Dakota has an open sandhill crane hunting season beginning in September 2022. The daily bag limit for Unit 1 is three, and the daily bag limit for Unit 2 is two.

Resident License Requirements:

• Harvest Information Program (HIP) registration
• Fishing, Hunting, and Furbearer Certificate
• Small Game License
• General Game and Habitat License or Combination License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

Nonresident License Requirements:

• Fishing, Hunting, and Furbearer Certificate
• General Game and Habitat License
• Valid Nonresident Small Game License or Valid Nonresident Waterfowl License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

Oklahoma

Western Oklahomans know the call of a sandhill crane. The state is a thoroughfare on their migratory pattern. Sandhill crane hunting is available in the state of Oklahoma. Contact your local Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation office for specific season dates and limits.

License Requirements:

• Valid Oklahoma Hunting License
• Federal Sandhill Crane Permit

South Dakota

South Dakota offers an open sandhill crane hunting season from Sept. 24 – Nov. 20, 2022. The daily bag limit is three.

Licenses Required:

• Residents: Combination or Small Game hunting license
• Nonresidents: Nonresident Small Game or Nonresident Waterfowl license.
• South Dakota Migratory Bird Certification.

Tennessee

Tennessee offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw.

Licenses Required:

• Tennessee Sandhill Crane Tag
• Sandhill Crane Identification Test

Texas

192 of 254 Texas counties have sandhill crane seasons from October through January. Texas requires a “Federal Sandhill Crane Hunting Permit,” but this appears to be a state requirement and is only available through the Texas Parks and Wildlife.

Licenses Required:

• Valid Texas Hunting license
• Texas Migratory Game Bird Stamp Endorsement
• Federal Sandhill Crane Hunting Permit

Utah

Utah offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw. If you don’t plan on hunting for grouse or cranes this year, Utah has a yearly preference point application that will improve your chances of winning a draw if you decide to apply the following year.

Licenses Required:

• Utah combination hunting license or Utah small game license
• Utah Sandhill Crane permit

Wyoming

Wyoming offers an open season for lesser sandhill cranes and a permit quota season for greater sandhill cranes. The daily bag limit for the general sandhill crane permit is three, and the season bag limit for the quota sandhill crane permit is one.

Licenses Required:

• Residents: resident game bird or game bird/small game hunting license
• Non Residents: nonresident game bird/small game hunting license
• Hunter Safety Certificate
• Wyoming Conservation Stamp
• Wyoming Sandhill Crane permit

Regulations change annually, so check with the local wildlife department before the season starts to get up-to-date information on rules and permits. Participating in a sandhill crane hunt is both a challenging and rewarding experience, but luckily, there are many options regarding where to do it.

This article was originally published on May 17, 2022.

READ MORE: ALL THE UPLAND GAME BIRDS YOU CAN HUNT IN AMERICA

How To Find Arrowheads In The Woods: The Ultimate Arrowhead Hunting Guide

Since I started hunting arrowheads a few years ago, I’ve had a lot of people ask where the best places to hunt for arrowheads are. And if you’re an arrowhead hunter yourself, you know that a single perfect answer to that question just doesn’t exist.

But since many of the friends that ask me this question enjoy spending a lot of time out in the woods, I thought I would focus on that. And explain to them how they can take part in the fun I was having in hunting for arrowheads, even in the woods!

For information on learning the value of your arrowheads, check out my post, The True Value Of Arrowheads: What Are They Worth To You?

For tips on hunting arrowheads, keep reading!

Introduction

I created a list of tips for these folks to help answer their question…as well as to share with you, fellow arrowhead hunters. So keep reading, and I hope you find some tips that are useful on your next arrowhead hunting trip.

Once you begin finding arrowheads, the next fun part is identifying them! If you need help identifying Indian arrowheads, you might find my post, American Indian Arrowhead Identification: A Resource Guide helpful for that phase of arrowhead collecting.

Once you find your arrowheads, you’ll want to display them with pride! Check out my post of some of the Best Arrowhead Display Cases.

Recommended Reading

How To Find Arrowheads In The Woods

Like I mentioned earlier, the answer isn’t necessarily all that straight forward. I promise that you’re not going to be successful at hunting arrowheads if all you do is randomly walk into the woods and start looking at the ground. You might get lucky, but chances are you won’t find a single arrowhead point.

Get To Know The People And How They Lived

The first thing about hunting arrowheads anywhere, whether it’s in the woods, in a creek or in a field, is knowing what to look for. You want to really get to know where the ancient people who left the arrowheads behind would have spent time or gathered together. Get to know where and how these people lived, hunted and traveled, and you’ll be a thousand miles ahead of most arrowhead hunters.

Remember The Ever Changing Landscape

The other thing to remember is that the landscape 500, 1000 or even 5000 years ago was significantly different than it is now. The pond, lake or creek you see today very well could have been a dry meadow or seasonal creek 1000 years ago. And areas that are now dry, could have easily been shallow ponds, marshes or even the bottom of a massive lake.

So as you walk out into the woods to look for arrowheads, keep these following tips and suggestions in mind:

Look For Evidence of Indian Camps

Whether you’re walking in the deepest part of the woods or simply following a well used trail, keep your eyes open for evidence of old Indian camps. How do you find Indian Camps? Think about areas that you would be useful to you if you were to set up a camp today. Things that would be important for a camp are natural shelter, like bluff overhangs, sources of water such as springs could be a great indications of a possible Indian camps being near by.

Many Indian camps will be located near a water source, such as a creek, river or spring. Just like modern civilizations, ancient peoples relied heavily upon water. They would have almost always camped very close to a source of fresh water. Their survival depended on it.

Indian camps would have been close to water, but they wouldn’t have necessarily been right on the water. Look for high areas that are away from the water a bit, but more importantly, are up out of the floodplain, such as a bluff or a knoll.

Hunting Arrowheads In Creeks, Rivers and Streams

When thinking about tips on how to hunt arrowheads in the woods, one of the best tips I can give you is to find a creek or river and start your search there. For me, it all starts with a water source. Even the fields I hunt for arrowheads in must always be near some type of water source, such as a creek, stream or river.

Remember that not all streams, creeks and rivers were flowing the same way 1000 or more years ago. Always keep that in mind. But if you’re certain you’ve found a creek or river that was present in ancient times, it should prove to be an excellent place to begin your hunt for arrowheads.

Creek Walking For Arrowheads: What Time Of Year Is Best?

Time your arrowhead hunting trip during the part of year when water levels are at their lowest. This is typically during the summer months. Creeks and rivers with low water levels will expose much more of the gravel bars and creek beds, which is where the arrowheads can be found. Also look in the eroded sides of the creeks that would normally be covered with water.

Arrowheads are made out of stone, so they tend to move along the bottom of the river just like other rocks and gravel. Spend time looking for arrowheads in the gravel bars and other rocky areas. Look along the water line as well as just inside the water line. Moving water will wash away the silt and other debris making it easier to see the arrowheads.

Arrowheads tend to get caught between other rocks of the same size or larger as they are pushed along by the water, pinning it in place.

Hunting Arrowheads Where Two or More Rivers or Creeks Join

If you’re just starting hunting for arrowheads in the woods, one of the best tips you could ever receive is to look for areas where 2 or more creeks, rivers or streams come together. Creek walking for arrowheads is one of the best ways to find arrowheads, and this type of scenario is my absolute favorite location to hunt for arrowheads.

Not only are these areas a hot spot for Indian camps, but they were popular locations for other ancient hunting activities. This is where you can find many other artifacts in addition to arrowheads.

If you’re able to locate where two or more larger sized rivers come together, then you’ll probably find evidence of Indian camps nearby. In ancient times, these areas were teaming with activity. People would not have only camped in these areas, but they would have lived in these locations for long periods of time. Because of this, these areas are not only excellent for hunting arrowheads, but are also where to find ancient stone and pottery artifacts.

If you find where two or more smaller creeks or streams come together, you’ll probably also find a lot of evidence of high animal traffic. Today, these areas are excellent for finding deer and other wild game to hunt. The same would also hold true in ancient times.

Many arrows and spears were shot or thrown at deer and other game while they approached the water. Many of these arrows and spears missed their target, only to be lost in the creek or tall grass. Spend time looking for these lost arrowheads in the eroded sides of the creek as well as on the bottom creek bed and gravel bars.

Tips For Hunting Arrowheads In The Woods

Below are some tips you can use to be more successful at finding arrowheads on your next trip out.

How To Find Arrowheads in Creeks and Streams

Like I mentioned, creek walking for arrowheads is a great way to find them, and gravel bars can be great places to spend your time searching. Here are a few things to keep in mind when hunting arrowheads on gravel bars in streams, creeks and rivers and what your levels of success might be. These are not concrete rules, but rules of thumb.

Sandy Bottom: very rare to find arrowheads. Artifacts you may find are pottery shards and possibly flint.

Pea Gravel: Higher rate for finding small arrowheads/ birdpoints.

Small gravel: Higher chance of finding small arrowheads/ birdpoints and other arrowheads that are about the same size as the gravel.

Medium to Large Gravel: Any size arrowhead can be found in this kind of creek or river bottom.

How To Find Ancient Creeks

Use Google maps to your advantage. Google maps can play a very helpful role when researching good areas for looking for arrowheads in the woods.

Use the topographical option on Google maps to investigate where rivers and streams may have traveled through in the past. You may find that two streams converged in a much different location than where they currently join.

Do your research before you head out and you will find arrowheads and other artifacts!

Now that you know how to find arrowheads in the woods, get out there and start looking! Leave a comment below and share any other tips you might have.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve taken the information in this post and are still unable to find the elusive arrowhead. I’ve located a few places online that sell authentic Indian arrowheads. You can find these items on my post, Where To Find Indian Arrowheads For Sale. However, the best thing you can do is continue to educate yourself on arrowhead hunting.

Expert Knowlege!

The experts have given us everything we need to know to successfully find arrowheads! All that knowledge and experience is written inside the pages of this book! Take advantage of it! And go find those relics!

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Share With Other Rockhounds!

In our previous post, we talked about the intricacies of deer vision, focusing on their perception of color, sensitivity to light, ability to detect movement, and their response to blue-spectrum and UV light. With that foundation, it’s time to delve into choosing the best camo for deer hunting in different hunting environments and seasons.

In this follow-up post, we’ll discuss what the science says about deer vision and camouflage and how to use them to enhance your concealment and help you choose the right camouflage for hunting deer.

Selecting the Right Camouflage to Beat Deer Vision

Choosing the right camouflage can make all the difference in a successful deer hunt. Deer have exceptional vision, and hunters need to be aware of how they perceive colors and movement to avoid detection. In this section, we’ll look at the science behind deer vision and how it relates to camouflage.

1. Match your environment: Choose a camouflage pattern that blends well with the dominant colors, patterns, and textures of your hunting environment.
2. Adapt to the season: Select camouflage that reflects the changing foliage and vegetation throughout the hunting season. Early-season hunts may require more green elements, while late-season hunts call for patterns with more browns and grays. Snowy environments or winter hunts may necessitate snow camouflage patterns.
3. Consider deer’s unique color perception: Deer perceive reds, oranges, and some tans and grays as shades of green or gray. Be cautious when selecting camouflage patterns, as they may appear effective to human eyes but stand out to deer due to their unique color perception.
4. Minimize blue-spectrum and UV visibility: Since deer are sensitive to blue-spectrum and UV light, avoid clothing and gear treated with brighteners, which can make them more visible to deer. Use UV-free detergents for washing your hunting gear and consider using UV-blocking sprays on your clothing and equipment to minimize the chances of being detected by deer.

READ: Deer Vision 101: How Deer See Color, Light, and Movement

Why Mimicry Camo Might Not Be the Best Camo

Mimicry camo, which uses pictures or photos of sticks, leaves, bark, trees, etc. to mimic the environment, is the most common type of hunting camouflage. These patterns can look incredibly realistic to the human eye and provide a sense of satisfaction to the hunter wearing them.

As research into deer vision and behavior has advanced, it has become clear that mimicry camo may not be the most effective option for hunting. While these patterns may look highly detailed to the human eye, deer perceive them as blurry blobs of color. Instead, patterns that use disruptive shapes and colors to break up the hunter’s outline have been shown to be more effective at fooling the eyes of whitetail deer.

While mimicry camo may look great to human eyes, it may not always be the most effective choice when hunting deer. By understanding the limitations of deer vision and the importance of breaking up your outline, you can make an informed decision when choosing your hunting apparel and give yourself the best possible chance of success.

The Effectiveness of Computer-Generated “Disruption” Camo Patterns

In recent years, computer-generated “disruption-style” camo patterns have become increasingly popular among hunters. With advancements in technology, it’s easier than ever to create intricate designs and patterns that are meant to mimic natural surroundings. But are these patterns actually effective? In this section, we’ll take a closer look at the effectiveness of computer-generated camo patterns and compare them to traditional, nature-based mimicry patterns.

Disruption camo is designed to break up the outline of the hunter and create the illusion of depth using different-sized patterns. This method tricks the animal’s eyes into not recognizing the subject as one single object, which makes it harder for them to identify the threat. In essence, disruption camo is designed to trick the animal’s eyes into not seeing anything at all.

1. Kuiu, Sitka, Huntworth, and Forloh: These companies have developed advanced camouflage patterns using computer algorithms and digital technologies to create intricate designs that blend effectively with different types of terrains and vegetation. Their patterns can be quite effective for bow hunters, as they help to break up the human silhouette and blend seamlessly with the environment.
2. Asio Gear’s owl-inspired camo: Asio Gear has developed a camouflage pattern specifically for bow hunters, inspired by the natural plumage of owls. This unique pattern is designed to mimic the disruptive coloration and patterning found in owl feathers, which help owls remain concealed from their prey. The effectiveness of this pattern for deer hunting will depend on the specific environment in which you are hunting and how well the colors and patterns match the local vegetation and terrain.

Modern hunting gear companies like the ones detailed above have developed innovative, computer-generated camouflage patterns designed to provide better concealment in various hunting environments. These patterns are often based on detailed studies of natural environments and animal vision, with the aim of increasing their effectiveness in fooling the keen eyes of deer and other game animals.

READ: Bow Hunting Clothes: Optimizing Camo, Scent, and Stealth

Mastering the Art of Concealment

Effective camouflage is just one piece of the puzzle when it comes to successful bow hunting. In addition to choosing the right gear, it’s important to master the art of concealment. This means staying motionless, scent-free, and taking advantage of natural cover to blend into the environment. In this section, we’ll explore the key strategies and techniques for concealing yourself effectively while bow hunting.

1. Blend with the environment: Choose a camouflage that closely resembles the natural patterns and contrasts in your hunting area, helping you to blend in seamlessly.
2. Minimize movement: Deer are highly sensitive to movement, so remain as still and quiet as possible when waiting for the perfect shot.
3. Maintain awareness: Stay vigilant and keep an eye on your surroundings. Deer have a wide field of view, and their heightened senses can detect even the slightest disturbances.
4. Camouflage vs. solid colors: While it’s possible to hunt deer without wearing camouflage, using camo can improve your chances of remaining concealed and undetected. For bow hunters, who need to get closer to their quarry, being able to break up your outline and blend into your environment is critical to your success. However, it’s crucial to combine camo with other hunting strategies and choose the appropriate pattern for your hunting environment and season.

It’s also important to consider other gear that can reduce visibility, such as face masks, gloves, and boots. These items should also match the camo pattern of the clothing.

The Best Camo for Deer Hunting

When it comes to deer hunting, camouflage isn’t just a fashion statement – it’s a crucial tool for success. Understanding deer vision and visual processes is key to creating effective camouflage that works in two ways. First, it must break up the hunter’s 3-dimensional shape and avoid stimulating the ambient system. This is achieved through an effective macro pattern.

Second, if the hunter is detected, the camouflage must prevent or delay recognition by making the hunter appear to have a completely different texture, which is where the micro pattern comes into play. Camouflage gives hunters an extra edge in the difficult pursuit of hunting by enhancing their concealment and increasing their chances of a successful hunt.

Many hunting clothing companies offer camouflage patterns that incorporate both macro and micro patterns to effectively break up the hunter’s shape and texture.

Some examples of such camo patterns include:

• Sitka Optifade Subalpine and Elevated II (and all the other variations they have)
• Kuiu Valo, Verde, and Vias
• First Lite Specter
• Huntworth Disruption
• True Timber Strata
• Under Armour Ridge Reaper Barren

These patterns use a combination of larger and smaller shapes, colors, and textures to create a highly effective camouflage that can help hunters remain hidden from deer.

There isn’t a single combination of colors that works optimally to beat deer vision, but generally speaking, camo patterns that incorporate shades of brown, green, and gray are the most effective. These colors match the natural environment, work against what a deer can see best, and reduce the silhouette of the hunter, making them less detectable.

It’s also important to choose a camo pattern that matches the specific environment and season you’ll be hunting in, as this can vary greatly depending on the location and time of year. Ultimately, the best combination of colors will depend on the individual hunting situation and environment you are in.

*Does mimicry camo work for deer hunting? Of course, it does. Deer have limited ability to see fine details, making mimicry camo effective, especially in environments where the camo closely matches the surroundings. However, based on my experience, I choose disruption-style camo 90% of the time. Disruption-style camo is designed to break up the human outline and create visual confusion, providing reliable concealment in various environments. While mimicry camo excels in perfectly matched environments, disruption-style camo offers versatility and effectiveness even when the colors and patterns may not perfectly align. This is why disruption-style camo has become my preferred choice for its all-around performance.

The Best Camo Patterns for Bow Hunters in Treestands

For bow hunters who hunt from treestands or elevated positions, there are disruption-style camo patterns specifically designed to blend into the vertical lines of trees. Sitka’s Elevated II and Kuiu’s Vias Camo are examples of camo patterns that utilize a mix of grays and greens to break up the human silhouette against the vertical lines of trees.

When hunting from a treestand, it’s important to consider the angle at which deer are likely to approach. Camouflage that blends in well with the vertical lines of trees can be particularly effective when deer are approaching from below, as it helps to break up the hunter’s outline and prevent them from being spotted.

Some of the best camos for deer hunting from a tree stand are:

• Sitka’s Elevated II
• Kuiu’s Verde (Early season)
• Kuiu Valo (Mid-season)
• Asio Gear’s Raptor Camo (See my mid-season gear review here)
• True Timber Strata
• Huntworth Disruption (or Tarnen)

What Deer Science Says

Understanding the science behind deer vision and camouflage is crucial for any serious bow hunter. As hunters, we want to reduce our visibility to deer and increase our chances of a successful hunt. Thanks to a number of scientific studies, we now have a better understanding of what camo patterns work best and why.

There are a number of scientific studies that support the effectiveness (or lack of) of camo patterns that mimic the environment. For example, a study conducted by the University of Georgia found that hunters wearing naturalistic camouflage patterns (mimicry) were less visible to deer than those wearing non-naturalistic patterns or solid colors.

Here are some additional resources and studies that can provide more scientific insight into deer vision and how it relates to the camouflage you wear when hunting:

• New York Times
• The Free Library
• The Deer Laboratory
• North Country Whitetails
• The Outdoor Channel
• Desolve Camouflage Camo Science

Conclusion

By applying your understanding of deer vision to your choice of camouflage, you’ll be better prepared to blend into your hunting environment and stay concealed from the keen eyes of whitetail deer. Remember to select a pattern that closely matches the natural colors, patterns, and textures of your hunting area, and adapt your camouflage according to the season.

Additionally, bear in mind that deer rely on other senses, such as hearing and smell. Thus, it’s essential to minimize noise, control your scent, and remain aware of wind direction while hunting. By combining all these elements, you’ll become a more proficient and effective whitetail deer bow hunter.

Understanding how deer see and process information is essential when trying to find the best camo for deer hunting. While many camouflage patterns use mimicry to blend in with natural environments, ungulates (deer) do not perceive fine detail the same way humans do. Instead, breaking up your outline is the key to effective camouflage, using different-sized patterns to create the illusion of depth and disrupt the animal’s ability to recognize one single object. This is where disruptive camouflage patterns can be more effective than mimicry patterns. By focusing on our outline, removing contrast to the environment we are hunting in, and using effective camouflage, we can reduce our visibility and increase our chances of a successful hunt.

While I didn’t list every deer hunting camouflage that meets the criteria in this post, you can now take this information and make an informed decision on what to buy the next time you are shopping for bow hunting clothes.

Today I’m going to show you the best sights for Glock 34.

In fact:

I’ve hand- tested over 10sights alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the sights by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best Glock 34 sight, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The Best Sights for Glock 34

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Glock 34 sights:

1. TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34
2. TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34
3. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34
4. AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34

1. TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34

The TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium Fiber Optic Sight is the best competition sight for Glocks.

In fact:

TRUGLO TFX Pro has completely transformed my results in short-range competitions. Since I began using them, my shot groupings are tighter, and my accuracy improved.

Sound like something you’re interested in?

Keep reading…

Tritium and Fiber Optics

One of my favorite features about the TFX Pro is the combination of tritium and fiber optics.

While tritium continuously glows, it’s best suited for night and lowlight because its luminescence isn’t noticeable in bright light. The fiber optic compensates for tritium’s daytime dullness because it absorbs ambient light, enabling it to glow in bright settings.

While I use these sights mainly for competition—usually in well-lit ranges—being able to rely on the tritium fiber optic combo assures me that I’m well-equipped to handle any self-defense scenario in all lighting conditions.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is unlimited.

This is great because—in addition to keeping both eyes open—I can get a sight picture from various distances and at different angles.

This is especially useful for self-defense, as these scenarios often unfold quickly with little time to aim.

Durability

The TFX Pro is built like the Titanic.

The rods are made from CNC machined steel coated with TRUGLO’s Fortress Finish, making it wear-resistant.

Unlike older TRUGLO sights, the tritium and fiber optics are hermetically sealed in the TFX Pro. This is great because it prevents damage during usage and also protects the tritium and fiber optics from oils, chemicals, and cleaning solvents.

While this means that the front sight is a bit longer, it ensures that your tritium and fiber optics are protected.

I don’t get hung up with the longer front sight, but I can see how it might be a hassle if you’re using a holster. So make sure to assess whether adding these sights impacts the ease with which you draw your weapon.

The rear sights come with a tensioning screw for the dovetail, so they don’t budge—even if you hit them. I appreciate the added security because it ensures that your rear sights stay put when doing one-handed manipulations.

A perk to the tritium and fiber optics is that it’s battery-free and long-lasting since tritium and fiber optics have a half-life of 12 years.

Front and Rear Sights

The contrast between the orange ring and the three green dots in the sight picture makes acquisition seamless and improves accuracy.

Although the orange ring dims in low light, it didn’t stop me from getting a good sight picture.

The rear sights’ U-notch design also promotes quick acquisition, and its elevated ledges make for easy one-handed manipulations.

I find that the U-notch’s width also provides adequate spacing between the rear and front sights in my sight picture, which helps accuracy.

Installation

Both front and rear sights are easy to install.

The sights come with an Allen wrench and tensioning screw, but I also used a

TRUGLO front sight tool:

A sight pusher:

And 242 Blue Loctite:

Just make sure that the front sight is installed tightly. Otherwise, it’ll be wobbly.

If you don’t want to install it on your own—or don’t own tools and don’t want to buy them—drop by your gunsmith for an installment.

Is the TRUGLO TFX Pro worth it?

If you want to compete with a Glock, or want sights that are optimal for self-defense, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro.

It’s got:

• Strong build
• Easy one-hand operation
• Around the clock visibility
• Quick focus and accuracy

You should know that TRUGLO only honors the 12-year warranty if your sights are installed by a licensed gunsmith. So if it’s detectable that you installed them, the warranty is voided.

Honestly, for the price, I think these are great sights. They’re made with quality material, and the Fortress Finish provides excellent protection, so you shouldn’t run into any longevity or functionality issues.

So if you’re looking for simple, but accurate and easy to use sights that are always ready to go, I would definitely buy the TRUGLO TFX Pro.

2. TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34

TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights are the best budget sights for the Glock 34.

In fact:

I used to have these mounted on my home defense and concealed carry pistols because of their unparalleled performance and price.

Here’s what I like about them…

Sights

These sights use the familiar three-dot design: two glowing green dots on the rear sight and one green dot on the front.

In the brighter lighting, the rear sights turn black while the front sight turns white to match the large focus and lock ring.

So, even in the daylight, these sights are guiding my eye for faster, more accurate target acquisition.

Tritium And Fiber Optics

What really makes these sights stand out is the dual tritium and fiber optic feature.

The tritium green dots glow at night without batteries, while the fiber optic white sights gather and magnify the light from the surrounding area. So they’re good in daylight, low light and no light situations.

I can use them while hunting day or night, but I also like having them for home defense.

You never know what the situation could look like, so knowing that I can use them in dim or no light situations puts me at ease.

Notch Style and Design

I have these sights on a couple of different guns, but I prefer them on my Glock 34.

I test and work with a lot of different pistols, so switching to the Glock with a heavier barrel always throws off my accuracy. Using sights, especially ones that perform to the caliber that these do, help me.

The U-Notch rear sight is designed for fast accuracy, not beauty.

The rear sight doesn’t blend well with the slide. It’s ugly to say the least, but it’s more than functional.

The angled rear sight also lets me rack the gun with one hand right off my belt — another great feature for home defense.

Durability

The TRUGLO Tritium is far more durable than any other sights in their price range, but they’re not indestructible.

I’ve shot hundreds and hundreds of rounds with these sights on my Glock 34. But, I noticed that after maybe 500 rounds, the front sight had come loose.

So if you intend on putting thousands of rounds through your gun, I’d go for a higher end glock 34 sight, like the TFX Pro.

Speaking of sights, if you’re looking for a high-end, mid-level priced optic, check out my review on the Leupold VX-R.

Mounting & Installation

You don’t have to make a special trip to a gunsmith to have these installed.

It took me less than 10 minutes to install these on my Glock 34. The front sight takes a hexagonal screw, while the rear sight is installed with an allen screw.

The drawback to the longer front sight is that it sticks out over the cutout on the top of the slide on the 34 (and 35) Glock. Not only does this not look as clean, but it can also compromise the sight’s lifetime.

What I did to fix this was to use some Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 to prevent the screws loosening over time. I haven’t had an issue since.

Is the TRUGLO Tritium worth it?

Because of their performance in low-light and no-light situations, I love these sights for my home and self-defense Glock 34. The snag-resistant design gives me a clean draw every time, so I’m ready faster.

If you’re looking for an affordable sight that outperforms its cost, these are the sights for you. Here’s why:

• Affordable
• U-Notch rear sight
• Tritium and Fiber Optic
• 12 year, limited warranty
• Unmatched visibility in all light conditions

In other words:

These sights have all of the premium features at half the cost. That’s why they’re my go-to for home and self-defense pistol sights.

With all the money I save, that’s more that I can put toward buying ammo and more time shooting.

So if you’re looking for the best night sights for your Glock 34 that won’t break the bank, I wouldn’t think twice about getting the TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights.

3. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34

The Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of self-luminous iron sights for use in all lighting conditions.

In fact, I think they are the best night sights available for the Glock 34.

Let’s find out why…

Visibility

Hands down, these are the most visible pistol iron sights I’ve ever used. And I’ve tested them in all lighting conditions.

Sight acquisition during low light and night conditions is fantastic. The green lamp tubes in the sights glow very brightly in the dark. I really like this feature on my home defense Glock, because if I need it, odds are I will need it at night!

But these sights are also great during the daytime. The lamp tubes are housed within an orange outer ring which is insanely easy to see in the light.

In fact, even if you don’t plan on doing much night shooting, I still recommend these sights just for the orange ring alone. It’s that good.

Accuracy

Simply put, these iron sights are very accurate.

I mounted them on my Glock 34 and the point of impact is right above the front post.

And after months of regular shooting, I haven’t noticed any shifting at all.

I also noticed that the HD XR has a thinner front post than most other iron sights.

The thinner post doesn’t obscure your target. This is great for shooting at longer ranges, and allows for better target identification at any distance.

Durability

The HD XR Night Sights are very durable.

This is because the lamp tubes are held in an anodized aluminum frame.

This makes them much stronger than standard plastic Glock sights, but still keeps them very light.

Mounting

You’ll want to have these installed by a professional using proper gunsmithing tools.

So take a quick trip to the gunsmith, and you’ll be all set to shoot in any light conditions.

Is the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set worth it?

Overall, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of high-visibility, durable iron sights for your Glock 34.

They’ve got:

• Durable metal frame
• Bright green lamp tubes for night shooting
• High visibility orange ring for daytime shooting
• Slim profile front post that doesn’t obscure your target

Plus, the sights are covered under Trijicon’s Limited Lifetime Warranty.

So whether you want to shoot during the day, the night, or somewhere in between, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is your best bet.

Looking for an optic for your 7.62×39? Check out our guide to the top choices.

4. AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34

The AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a highly accurate, highly visible ghost ring custom tailored for Glock pistols.

In fact, it’s the best ghost ring you can buy for the Glock 34.

I don’t make this claim lightly. Read on to find out why the GL-125 is the best Glock 34 ghost ring on the market.

Accuracy

The GL-125 is incredibly accurate.

This is due to the design of the ghost ring, which uses an aperture instead of a traditional notch for the rear sight. Basically, it’s a circle, so it draws the eye naturally to the center while allowing you to focus on the front post.

This helps you level your pistol both correctly and quickly, which makes for accurate shots. Target acquisition is quicker with a ghost ring too, which is great for use with a defense weapon.

In fact, since using the GL-125 on my Glock 34, I’ve noticed that my shooting with all pistols has improved. The skills I’m perfecting by using the ghost ring transfer well even to the standard notch-and post sights on most of my other handguns.

Visibility

This ghost ring shows up perfectly well in any lighting conditions.

The tritium lamps glow a very bright green, which is easy to see in low-light or even total darkness.

And the white circle around the lamp on the front post is very easy to pick up in the daylight.

This means that day or night, you’ll be able to reliably put shots on target.

Durability

This ghost ring is insanely durable.

The ghost ring and front post are both made with a steel frame, so they can take all kinds of abuse.

I’ve even practiced racking the slide on my Glock one handed, using the sights and my belt, and they didn’t budge. Hopefully I’ll never need to use that skill, but it’s good to know I can do it in an emergency!

Mounting

Installing the GL-125 was a breeze. I didn’t even have to take it to the gunsmith.

Just snap them in place, and get to shooting.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring worth it?

Overall, the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a fantastic all-purpose Glock sight suitable for all shooting conditions.

It’s got:

• High durability
• Easy self-installation
• Aperture-style rear sight
• White circle for day shooting
• Bright green tritium lamps for night shooting

And if all that isn’t enough, the ghost ring is covered by AmeriGlo’s standard warranty.

So if you’re looking for a good alternative to traditional notch-and-post pistol sights for your Glock 34, look no further than the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring.

Need an optic for your AR-15? Check out my guide to the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best sights for Glock 34 guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best competition sights for Glock 34, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic.

Looking for the best sights for Glock 34 under budget? Choose TRUGLO Tritium.

How about the best night sights for Glock 34? Then opt-in for Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set.

Lastly, if you are looking for the best ghost ring sights for Glock 34, I’d recommend AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of these options. After all, I have hand and torture tested all the above sights, and proved to be reliable.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your Glock 34?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

“So, I guess here it is, we’ll just announce the 2022 flagship right now. The all-new 2022 (******) from Mathews!” This is how we ended the 2021 Mathews V3 review. There’s no crystal ball, no palm reading, or tarot cards. For a few years I wondered just how Mathews could keep improving? Over the last few years though, they have made it easy to predict the future. Not the specifics, just the fact that they aren’t sitting back waiting. Year after year, they are innovating, proving, and advancing technology. This year’s flagship, the V3X, is no different.

The V3X stage is set on the Proving Ground, which you can watch here.

Mathews V3X Review

Like the 2021 V3, this year’s V3X has many of the tried and true features. The Integrate MX dovetail rest mount, Center Guard cable system, Switch Weight modules, and CrossCentric Cams are a few of the more prominent things to carry over. More info here.

New for the V3X, and visibly hard to miss, is the Bridge-Lock Sight technology. This allows dovetail sights to be mounted directly through the riser. This eliminates the external mounting bracket, creating a cleaner look, improved balance, less hand shock, and a more compact profile. This feature is compatible with all dovetail sight brands that I have tried, and don’t fear-the V3X is still compatible with all external sight mounts as well.

Mathews LowPro Quivers

In conjunction with the Bridge-Lock, next in line are the new LowPro quivers. These are designed around the geometry of the V3X. Moving the sight to the center of the riser allowed the engineers to bring the fixed and detachable versions over 50% closer to the riser. These are more precise and fit tighter, helping keep the streamlined balance position that Mathews is creating. Like previous models, the LowPro series is available in both one and two-piece versions. More information can be found here.

Mathews Stay Afield System

One of the biggest fears of backcountry hunters, and those who travel across the U.S and the World, is having a mishap during the hunt. Losing a peep or needing to fix strings and cables on the fly isn’t a worry anymore. With specially modified cams and this bow-specific set of cables, the Stay Afield System is the new lightweight bow kit that will save more than one hunt this fall. At less than ½ ounce, this is a must-have. You can learn more about the system here.

29″ and 33″ ATA Options

Like the V3, the V3X is available in two lengths. 29” and 33’’, so slightly longer than the V3 was. It is available in draw weights of 5lb increments, and draw lengths of ½-inch increments.

Mathews V3X Setup and Testing

Similar to last year I received the review bow in late October, while I was out on other hunts. Like a kid at Christmas, it’s always exciting to see what Mathews put together. It didn’t take long to get the box ripped open, and begin setup.

The setup was fast and super simple. I was able to slide in my HHA Tetra Max dovetail bar and lock it into the Bridge-Lock-such a simply ingenious system. Within another 15-20 minutes, I was able to get the rest, loop, and peep sight all tied in. It was time to fling a few arrows to get sighted in and feel this bow’s shot sequence for the first time.

Like normal, I measure and eye everything close, then go to 5 yards and shoot one arrow. Then I make adjustments, and then another arrow at 10 yards. I make that set of adjustments and shoot another at 20 yards. At this point, I am pretty dialed. I’ll then shoot three arrows at distances out to 50. When comfortable, I’ll dial 60 yards and shoot that until I’m confident enough to pick my sight tape.

On this particular day, I didn’t have a lot of time, but I was able to get 20 arrows in, and was comfortably hitting 4” circles at 50 yards, with broadheads. So slightly over an hour after unboxing, I was headed to the tree stand. I was particularly excited. This was only my second sit in Wisconsin, I had a brand-new rig, and I would only have one more sit after this one before the rifle season opened.

The Real Test

That sit was uneventful, and the following morning I had commitments that kept me out of the tree until 2:00 that afternoon. It wasn’t much after 2:00, though, when I could see a doe feeding my direction through the oak trees. Within 20 minutes she was at about 30 yards and I started preparing for the shot. Over the years I have come up with a very specific shot sequence, it’s become second nature; automatic if you will. Anytime anything in that equation changes, things aren’t as fast, and become less automatic.

With a new rig in my hand, I was now drawn and working through each step of the process when I heard the crunching of leaves behind and below the doe. In seconds, I could see the flash of brown and shine of antler as this buck worked his way up towards us. Within seconds he spotted the doe, grunted, and began trotting towards her. She bolted away from us and then made a loop around. This path had her coming directly under me. I drew again, and as he took a shortcut, it put him on a line 24 yards in front of me-and wide open. With two loudmouth grunts, he came to a stop and I was able to get through the process, sending an Iron Will Solid through both shoulders. He only went 25-yards.

That Was Fun, Now Back to the Bow

Being new, and not totally second nature, I took a little more time with the shot process. When the shot broke, three things came to mind immediately. Wow, that was quiet, literally almost silence, other than the arrow smashing through the buck. I felt no hand shock, barely any bow movement, and lastly, it hammered him!!

Specs from the website:

• Brace Height 6.5” (6” on the 29” ata)
• IBO Rating up to 336 FPS
• Axle to axle available in 29”and 33”
• Draw Weight available in 60/65/70/75
• Let-Off 80 or 85%
• Weights of 4.67# and 4.47# for 33” and 29” respectively
• MSRP $1299

Once again I used the Mathews Bow Builder for custom strings, cables, and accessories. I chose the new Granite finish, which I really like. I use an HHA Tetra Max dovetail with this, a two-piece low-profile quiver, and outfit it with a Jakt Gear bow and wrist sling.

Conclusion

My final thoughts on this bow are incredible. As I alluded to in the hunt recap, it is unbelievably quiet, and the bow movement upon shot release is almost nonexistent. It’s honestly hard for me to believe. It’s got a solid back wall, the balance is tight, and it is the nicest bow I’ve ever shot. Start building yours here.

I do have to be very careful when I’m at the back wall, it seems ready to take off at any point if I relax at all. More time with it will be the only way to see how it works out.

The only other thing to watch is the LoPro quivers. They will mount and fit with a sight that is mounted externally, but you will lose a couple of the arrow slots, as the arrows would hit the sight mount if mounted externally.

I’ll reiterate, how amazingly quiet this bow is. I can see this being a big advantage in certain situations like jumpy whitetails, western antelope, and longer-distance shooting at some animals. Less noise should hopefully keep those edgy animals from jumping the string so much.

I’ve shot almost every Mathews built since the early 1990s. It’s an amazing company (and just an hour from my house.) Just like about anyone else, I have the ability to shoot a bow from any bow manufacturer that I like-and I do every year from many companies to stay in the loop and formulate honest opinions. And I still keep coming back to Mathews. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on a 29” version to see how it shoots…and even more looking forward to seeing what the 2024 Mathews will bring to the table…stay tuned.

Comment on this review or ask Les questions here.

More archery content available here.

.22 WMR

I won’t go as far as to belittle the, uh, little .17 Winchester Super Magnum. It’s a unique cartridge that does what no rimfire has done before. It’s the fastest rimfire ever designed and actually performs spectacularly – for a rimfire.

What I will do is ask, why? The great charm about rimfires is that they’re versatile and inexpensive to shoot. The .17 WSM, superb distance performer that it is, is neither. While it’s capable of perforating a prairie dog farther away than “common” rounds, such as the .22 Magnum, most savvy shooters have transitioned to centerfires when distances stretch that far. And up close the .17 WSM is actually going too fast: Squirrels and cottontails suffering a body shot from it leave the hunter with little but fluff.

By stew-pot decree, any rimfire not well suited for small-game hunting is, well, not really a rimfire. It’s an outcast. What some folks charitably term a “niche” cartridge.

Contrast that with the .22 Magnum. While it’s not as aerodynamic as its .17-caliber sibling, it hits authoritatively within the rimfire’s realm – inside of 150 yards or so. For small-game hunting, full-metal-jacket projectiles minimize meat damage; likewise valuable pelts about to be separated from their host furbearer. Butchers effectively use a .22 Mag pellet between the eyes on even the biggest steer.

Government trappers prefer it for killing troublesome mountain lions – cats die in the tree instead of being knocked out, hurt and fighting mad, into their pack of valuable dogs.

And, finally, even homeowners have viable ammunition choices engineered specifically for self-defense to choose from. If that’s not versatility, what is? – Joeseph von Benedikt

.17 WSM

Hunters need just two rimfire cartridges for small game: a .22 LR if they want to eat it and a .17 Winchester Super Magnum (WSM) if they wish to kill it. The .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR) splits the difference between the two, crushing them both in all the categories that don’t matter.

The .22 WMR fires a projectile too fast for use on tablefare, such as squirrel or rabbits. What’s more, the bullets are ballistically inefficient at longer range. See for yourself. With only a 5 mph breeze, Hornady’s .22 WMR 30-grain V-MAX drifts 6.9 inches and strikes with 94 ft.-lbs. of energy at 150 yards. At that same range, Winchester’s .17 WSM 20-grain load drifts only 2 inches and carries an impressive 230 ft.-lbs. of energy. At 200 yards, where the .22 WMR is running on fumes, the .17 WSM is still scooting right along and carries twice the energy of the .17 HMR, itself a long-range rimfire.

What about bullet weight and penetration, two attributes the .22 WMR does possess? They simply don’t matter on game that can fit inside your mother’s purse. What about coyotes? Skip both and use a centerfire.

However, if you must use a rimfire on predators, opt for the 25-grain .17 WSM load. Using its superior velocity, the .17 can and will knock down any coyote within 150 yards as long as you hit your mark. You’ll be surprised at the long-range killing power of this little thumper, and you’ll save a few bucks in the process.

Speed kills, and the .17 WSM slaughters the .22 WMR in velocity, trajectory, wind drift, and retained energy. Its rimfire lethality is far superior to anything stamped “.22 WMR.” – D. Faubion

That is a tough question to answer because there are several counties in Kentucky with a strong reputation for trophy whitetail deer. Many deer hunters travel to Kentucky each year in search of large bucks, and there are numerous prime locations for hunting.

Some of the counties in Kentucky with the largest bucks include Ballard, Edmonson, Grayson, Hopkins, Knox, and Union. As far as the largest bucks, hunting enthusiasts have most recently reported numerous big bucks taken from Ballard County, particularly around the Kuttawa and Cave-in-Rock areas.

What county in Kentucky has the deer hunting?

Deer hunting is allowed throughout the state of Kentucky, with each county having its own specific regulations. In Kentucky, deer hunting is typically restricted to certain seasons and specific areas of land, though trekking on private land can be allowed by the landowner.

To hunt deer in Kentucky, hunters are required to have a valid Kentucky hunting license, as well as a license tag and permits specific to their county. Popular counties in Kentucky that are known for their good deer hunting include Hart, Estill, Crittenden, Ballard, Hickman, Carlisle, and Greenup.

Each region has its own unique collection of habitats and topography that can provide excellent deer hunting opportunities. Additionally, hunters are encouraged to become familiar with the Kentucky Fish and Wildlife regulations for the county in which they plan to hunt in order to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.

Which part of Kentucky has the biggest deer?

The Southeast region of Kentucky is the area with the highest concentration of whitetail deer, especially in areas such as Wayne County and Boyd County. This part of Kentucky is mainly composed of rolling hills, forests and lots of agricultural lands, making it a great habitat for deer.

The outskirts of cities like East Bernstadt and London can also provide great hunting opportunities. The rich farming and agricultural land in the Southeast region provides a lot of food and nutrients for the deer, which makes them thrive in this area.

Furthermore, the mild climate and mild winters contribute to an abundant and healthy population of deer. With the combination of diverse habitats and abundant food sources, it is no surprise that the Southeast region of Kentucky has the highest concentration of deer.

Does Kentucky have big bucks?

Yes, Kentucky certainly does have big bucks! Not only is Kentucky home to some of the finest whitetail deer hunting in the United States, but its diverse habitat and mild climate offer the perfect environment for big bucks to grow and roam.

From Boone and Crocket record deer to an abundance of well-managed public hunting land, Kentucky’s big buck potential is well documented. Kentucky’s average buck size is larger than most other states and numerous big bucks are harvested annually.

Kentucky is a top producer of Boone and Crockett bucks, producing over 25% of all record book trophy deer in the Southeast United States. The unique mix of quality habitat and mild conditions make Kentucky an ideal place for trophy deer to grow and thrive.

Where are the biggest whitetail bucks?

The biggest whitetail bucks are found in many different places across North America. Depending on the region, there are different optimal habitats and conditions for hunting. Whitetail deer prefer habitats with plentiful vegetation and adequate cover, such as forests, woodland edges, fields and meadows.

In the mid-west and southern parts of the country, large numbers of whitetail can be found in agricultural areas with corn and other food sources. In the northern parts of the United States and Canada, the biggest bucks will typically be found in the thick forest areas with hardwood trees.

Whitetail deer are also commonly found in southeastern areas of the US, such as the swamps and wetlands.

Regardless of where they live, whitetail bucks are most active during the fall and winter months when they are in their peak breeding season. During this time, they are more likely to move around, making them more visible and reachable for hunters.

Additionally, whitetail deer usually travel during the two hours after sunrise and two hours before sunset. During these times, the weather is usually calmer and the deer are most vulnerable due to their limited vision.

Although whitetail bucks can be found in many parts of North America, some of the best places to hunt for the biggest bucks include south-central Wisconsin, south-central and south-eastern Pennsylvania, northern Minnesota, western Michigan, and parts of Illinois, Iowa, and Indiana.

These areas have the optimal habitat, food sources, and plenty of cover that deer need to stay healthy and grow large antlers. However, wherever you choose to hunt for whitetail deer, local state hunting regulations should always be followed.

Good luck!.

How big are the deer in Kentucky?

The deer in Kentucky can vary in size, depending on factors such as the species, age, and sex of the deer. Generally speaking, the average adult white-tailed deer found in Kentucky stands around 3. 5 feet tall at the shoulder, and the average weight of an adult white-tailed deer typically ranges from 120 to 200 pounds, depending on its age and sex.

White-tailed deer fawn compared to adults are generally around half to two-thirds of the size of the average adult. In addition to these species, other deer species found in Kentucky such as Mule Deer, Pronghorn Antelope, and Rocky Mountain Elk, can range from slightly larger to significantly larger than the White-tailed deer, especially the Elk, which can reach up to 4-5 feet tall and weights of up to 500 pounds or more.

Is Kentucky a good state for deer hunting?

Kentucky is an excellent state for deer hunting and is considered one of the top deer-hunting destinations in the country. Kentucky is known to have a relatively healthy deer population and large areas of land that make ideal habitats for these animals.

The state also has an ample number of public hunting areas where deer hunting is open, making it easy and accessible to visitors and locals alike. Furthermore, the winters in Kentucky tend to be mild and snowfall is generally not a major issue, allowing hunters to easily access their favorite hunting spots throughout the year.

The recently implemented Electronic Game Check system also makes it easy for hunters to register their kills and stay in compliance with regulations. All in all, Kentucky is an ideal state for deer hunting.

What county produces the biggest whitetail deer?

The largest whitetail deer harvested on record was a buck killed in Kansas and it weighed an astonishing 312 lbs. Although this buck wasn’t certified as an official Boone and Crockett Club entry, it still stands as one of the largest whitetail deer ever taken by a hunter.

Other states that are known for producing large whitetail deer include Ohio, Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois, and Pennsylvania. In the specific counties, some of the top spots for harvesting large deer are Gibson County, Indiana, Atchison County, Missouri, and Marion County, Illinois.

Depending on the season and weather conditions, these counties may have a higher as well as a lower concentration overall, but they tend to remain among the top producers for large whitetail deer.

Where is the largest population of deer?

The largest population of deer can be found in North America, with an estimated 30 million white-tailed deer, according to the Quality Deer Management Association. The majority of these deer are located in the eastern United States, with significant deer populations in Texas, Oklahoma, and the Midwest states.

White-tailed deer are widely distributed, with populations existing in every state in the continental U. S. , from the easternmost parts of Maine all the way to Washington, Oregon, and California on the west coast.

Canada is home to an estimated 6 million white-tailed deer as well, making North America the home to the largest deer population in the world.

Where can I find big mature bucks?

If you’re looking for big mature bucks, the best bet is to scout out areas with plenty of cover and food sources. Try to locate areas with dense cover and natural food sources such as acorns, chokecherries, and honeysuckles.

Visit the area at least once a week at different times of the day to observe any activity. Look for buck rubs and scrape marks in the area and use trail cameras to get a better idea of the deer movement in that area.

Also, keep an eye out for any clues that reveal deer bedding areas. When you find the bedding area of a mature buck, you will know you are in the right spot. Make sure to stay downwind of the deer to not spook them and observe any specific habits they may have when you find them.

As the seasons progress and the rut draws closer, mature bucks will become more active and roam larger distances, giving you more opportunities to pinpoint them. With the right scouting, patience, and techniques, you can be rewarded with the sight of a big mature buck.

What is the state for big bucks?

The phrase “big bucks” is oftentimes used to refer to large amounts of money. Depending on the context, it can refer to any amount above what a person might expect to make in income, or to a particularly high-stakes amount of money.

In particular, the phrase is often used to refer to high-level investments, large profits, enormous gifts, or big gambles.

The phrase “big bucks” originated as an American phrase in the early 20th century, with its first known usage dating back to 1925. It quickly became a mainstay of American slang, though its usage has since spread to other English-speaking countries.

In America, the phrase is often used to refer to large sums of money which are acquired in a business setting or as a result of a serious and profitable investment.

In summary, the phrase “big bucks” is used to refer to large amounts of money, often acquired in a serious, high-stakes setting. Its usage stems from American slang and has since spread around the English-speaking world.

What kind of deer does Kentucky have?

Kentucky is home to two species of deer, the white-tailed deer and the Virginia white-tailed deer. The white-tailed deer, or Odocoileus virginianus, is the most commonly seen species throughout the state, thriving in most conditions including suburban, urban, agricultural and forest habitats.

The Virginia white-tailed deer, or Odocoileus virginianus clavium, is the more reclusive subspecies of white-tailed deer and is more commonly found in remote areas of Kentucky. The Virginia white-tailed deer is only found in a few areas in northern Kentucky, most notably in Hopkins and Christian counties.

Both species of deer are medium-sized mammals with a reddish-brown coat in summer and a greyer, thicker coat in winter. They have white tails and underparts, and males usually have antlers from late summer into winter.

The deer are herbivores, eating mostly acorns, seeds, herbs, grass and other vegetation.