If you’ve ever wanted to try a lion’s mane mushroom you’d be hard-pressed to find one at the local supermarket. Yet, these unusual mushrooms are tasty and healthy, and there are numerous health benefits from consuming them.

If you’d like to learn how to grow these mushrooms yourself, then keep on reading. We’re covering their characteristics, health benefits, storage, and step-by-step instructions for cultivating lion’s mane mushrooms indoors and on logs.

What is a Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

The lion’s mane mushroom (also known as Hericium Erinaceus) is a white, pom-pom-like fungus that resembles the mane of a lion.

Individual mushrooms can grow to be fairly big, weighing as much as half a kilogramme. The spines, or “teeth,” begin short but become longer with age. The mushroom is spongy and semi-hollow at times.

These unusual-looking mushrooms are found on rotting hardwood trees and logs throughout the northern hemisphere and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America.

Lion’s mane mushrooms are edible as well as medicinal, with a variety of potential health benefits. These potential benefits include protection against dementia, protection against stomach ulcers, reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes symptom management, and many more.

It’s pretty much impossible to buy fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in the UK due to the fact that it’s a relatively unknown species. Your best bet is to find a specialist farmer, or, the easier option, is to grow this species of mushroom yourself.

Is Lion’s Mane Mushroom Easy to Grow?

Lion’s mane is a reasonably simple mushroom to cultivate, but it can be a challenge for novices because the mycelium takes longer to develop than other mushrooms, creating an increased risk of contamination. It can also be challenging for first time growers to determine whether the lion’s mane is fully colonised and ready to produce fruit.

If you’re new to mushroom growing, we suggest you should get some hands-on experience first. The easiest way to practise mushroom cultivation is by growing your own! Oyster mushrooms are a great place to start. Alternatively, you can use a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit if you’re keen to try lion’s mane at home without the hassle of growing your own from scratch!

Growing in bags vs on logs

The two most popular methods of growing lion’s mane mushrooms are in bags or on logs. They both have their positives and negatives, but the answer to the best way to grow lion’s mane mushrooms is dependent on your experience and the harvest time you are hoping for.

If you’re growing lion’s mane on logs, you should expect to harvest your first batch in one to two years following inoculation. You can harvest lion’s mane mushrooms from a single log for up to six years after they begin to grow. It’s important to note growing mushrooms on logs generally requires more effort and resources to set up, but are relatively easy to maintain during incubation.

It takes far less time to grow lion’s mane indoors in a bag or container. The lion’s mane mushroom can be harvested in about 6 to 8 weeks after inoculating your substrate. Growing in bags is debatably the easier option if you are just starting out, but if you already have some growing experience under your belt then consider when you want your mushrooms to be harvestable.

It’s worth noting that bags can be used to grow mushrooms indoors, whereas logs have to be grown outdoors.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors

Below we’ve put together a step-by-step tutorial to help you grow lion’s mane mushrooms in a bag or container.

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Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

It’s essential that you keep your work environment clean and sterile during the inoculation procedure. When you have spent time preparing your mushrooms, the last thing you want to do is introduce competitive bacteria into your substrate that could outcompete your spawn. Before you start, wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol or another cleaning solution.

After you have cleaned your workplace, you need to assemble all the equipment and supplies needed.

There are several ways you can choose to grow Lion’s Mane mushrooms but growers typically opt to begin the process of substrate preparation, inoculation and incubation within a mushroom growing bag. This makes life a lot easier when handling aspects like sterilisation and pasteurisation too.

From there, it is really a preference in growing technique. Some growers prefer to keep their Lion’s Mane growing from the bag, some prefer to use jars, others choose fruiting chambers. The key considerations are ensuring that the substrate has successfully been inoculated and colonised and that the eventual growing environment has sufficient humidity.

Some supplies we recommend

• A Pressure cooker
• Kitchen Scales
• Measuring cups
• Lion’s mane grain spawn

• Mushroom growing bags or buckets
• Hardwood pellets
• Soy Hulls

Step 2. Preparing Your Mushroom Substrate

Preparing your mushroom substrate correctly is a critical step in the cultivation of any mushroom. It is where most new growers experience problems, as this is where bacteria or competing organisms are first introduced. This is especially true in the case of Lion’s mane mushrooms as the fungus takes much longer to develop than other commonly cultivated mushrooms. As a result, there is a often a much greater window of time for contamination to occur.

There are several types of substrate you could opt for when growing Lion’s Mane mushrooms. In this guide, we’ll be focusing on hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP) but you can learn about more types of substrates here.

A good substrate should provide the sustenance your fungi need to thrive and produce delicious mushrooms. It provides all of the nutrients, nitrates and hydration, so it is key you start on the right foot. Supplemented substrates are usually preferred by experienced growers when working with Lion’s Mane.

Whilst some prefer to use bran or oat supplements, one of our favourite and most recommended substrates for growing Lion’s Mane is Master’s Mix.

What is Master’s Mix?

Master’s Mix is a blend between hardwood pellets and soy hulls, which is ideal for Lion’s Mane as it naturally occurs on hardwood trees and the added soy provides an excellent source for the nitrogen and protein for the fungi.

It also provides a structure that is well suited for mycelium growth, allowing for fast colonisation and greater yield sizes.

Whilst sterilization isn’t strictly necessary for hardwood pellets, it is best practice that you do so to maximise your chances of success. Plus, if you do opt for a mixed blend like Master’s mix, you will most certainly need to sterilize your substrate mix.

We have a detailed guide to Master’s Mix in the works, but following the steps below will give you everything you need to know to get started.

Making your Master’s Mix Blend

To produce a simple master’s mix, prepare even amounts of hardwood fuel pellets and soy hulls. The recommended hydration level for a Masters’ Mix is 60% but if you’re using hardwood pellets, you will need to allow for additional water to redhyrate the pellets sufficiently.

Below are the supplies and weights need to produce a 2.3kg substrate:

• 450g hardwood pellets
• 450g soy hulls
• 1.4L clean water
• A growing container (we recommend using a mushroom growing bag)
• A pair of weight scales
• A pressure cooker (Optional)
• Latex gloves (Optional)

The first thing you will need to do is to mix your hardwood pellets and soy hulls together in a sterilised container or bag. Next, you will need to add the clean water to the mix. Allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes (or as long as required) to rehydrate the pellets into a sawdust-like mix. If you’re using a mushroom growing bag, it is easiest to hydrate your pellets and mix the supplies directly in the bag.

Sterlising your Substrate Mix

The next step is to sterilise your substrate mixture. There are several ways to sterilise and pastuerise a substrate, but it is recommend that you use a pressure cooker to do so.

If your mix has now hydrated, simply fold and seal the growing bag and place it into your pressure cooker. It is recommended to leave the mix in the cooker for at least two hours at a pressure of 15PSI.

Once your substrate mix has been in the cooker for 2 or more hours, you will need to carefully remove the growing bag and allow it to completely cool in a sanitary environment.

When the substrate has fully cooled, it is time to begin the inoculation process.

Step 3. Inoculating Your Mushroom Substrate

Before starting the inoculation process, use soap and water to thoroughly clean your hands before handling any of your growing materials. You should also ensure that the working environment has been sanitised prior to unsealing the growing bag.

We also recommend continuing this next step in a controlled decontaminated space, such as a flow hood or a DIY container (such as a sterilised clear box with embedded gloves).

For a 2.3kg substrate, we would recommend using 200 grams of grain spawn mix. We stock grain spawn in sizes from 600g to 3kg, so you will have plenty to work with.

If using grain spawn, carefully break apart the spawn and mix throughout the substrate mix, ensuring even coverage and layering.

Once your lion’s mane spawn has been mixed into the substrate, seal your growing bag or cover your container.

A better way to do this is to open the bag following pressure cooking, rapidly add the spawn, seal it immediately, and then mix the material within the sealed bag. This is ideally done in front of a flow hood and reduces exposure time.

Step 4. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Now that you’ve prepared and inoculated your substrate, it’s time to let the fungi do its thing.

Place your growing bag in a dark space away from direct sunlight and store at room temperature (18-25°C), although consistently at 23°C is ideal.

How long does it take for Lion’s Mane mushrooms to colonise?

It can take between 14-21 days for your Lion’s Mane to colonise the substrate mix but this could take longer depending on a number of factors, such as the amount of spawn used, the substrate hydration level, and external storage conditions and the quality of the spawn.

How to tell if Lion’s Mane is fully colonised

When compared with other commonly cultivated mushrooms, Lion’s Mane mushroom mycelium threads (known as hyphae) are somewhat finer in appearance and can make it harder to determine whether it has fully colonised the substrate.

Ideally, you will see the substrate mix even coated in a white mycelium, but other ways of testing include feeling the mix to test whether it has become firmer to the touch.

Step 5. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

While your Lion’s Mane is perfectly capable of fruiting their mushrooms when ready, it can be helpful to provide a helping hand by creating conditions that encourage a flush to appear.

For Lion’s Mane, this can be achieved by increasing the humidity of the growing environment. Whilst keeping the growing bag in a shady area, try misting the substrate several times a day with water.

You can also place your growing bag into a plastic liner and spray the inside lining to create a contained humid environment. Pro tip: if you’re not able to mist your substrate every day, place wet tissue paper or cloth inside of the outer lining to maintain humidity.

We suggest cutting a small (5 cm) hole on the side of your bag rather than the top. If you cut the top of the bag or open the entire top, the substrate dries out faster and you get a lot of smaller mushrooms instead of a few large groupings.

Only one hole in your bag is required for every 750 grams of substrate. For most bags, one hole is sufficient. However, if you have a really large bag, you may want to cut more holes.

If your bag has any extra room at the top, we recommend folding it down and taping it in place. Mushrooms may attempt to grow from the top if this is not done.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs

Growing lion’s mane on logs is a low-cost approach to ensure a consistent, long-term supply of fresh lion’s mane.

Everything you need to know about growing lion’s mane on logs is included in the step-by-step guide below. For a more in-depth guide on growing on logs, check out our full article on the topic.

What you’ll need:

• Lion’s mane mushroom plug spawn
• Comprising dowels, wax and wax applicator
• Hardwood logs, which are 2-6 weeks old
• Hammer
• Drill with 8mm bit (depending on the size of dowels)
• Gas cooker (if not near to a domestic stove)
• Pan for heating the wax

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Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

As mentioned above, it’s essential to keep your growing space clean to avoid contamination of your spawn.

When growing lion’s mane mushrooms, always use hardwood logs, we suggest beech or oak logs.

It’s vital to choose healthy trees while selecting logs and to never use logs older than 6 weeks. Any tree with rotting wood or symptoms of infection faces an increased risk of competition with pre-existing fungus in the logs.

Start by drilling a row of 15 cm holes down the length of your log. This is deep enough that when you hammer your plug into the wood, it will leave a little space underneath it, giving an ideal environment for the mycelium to thrive.

After you’ve finished the first row of holes, place the following row of holes in a staggered pattern. Begin the next row of holes 6 cm apart from the first, staggering the rows to create a diamond or checkerboard pattern.

Step 2. Inoculating Your Logs

Getting your plug spawn dowels into the hole should now be a breeze. All you have to do now is gently tap them in with a hammer to secure them.

Your plugs should be flush with the log’s timber and just beneath the bark’s surface. You’ll be able to plug the hole with wax this way.

This is an important step in keeping your mycelium safe and uninfected. The most common form of wax used to fill holes is soy wax; however, other waxes such as cheese or beeswax can also be utilised.

Once the wax has melted, use a wax applicator to apply it to your holes. You can buy them inexpensively or make your own with a cotton ball or rag, or a small brush.

Step 3. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Once you have inserted the spawn into your logs and sealed them with wax, your logs are pretty much ready to be left for incubation.

There are several options for storing logs during incubation. Shaded areas like beneath a tree or the side of a house are ideal places to keep your logs.

The most important thing is to keep your logs in an area with good air circulation and a high humidity level.

In dry weather, water your logs with a hose once or twice a week for 10 minutes to maintain the proper moisture level. If they dry out, your mycelium will die.

Step 4. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

You can speed up the growth of your mushrooms by initiating or ‘shocking’ your logs. This can be accomplished by soaking them in cold water for 12-24 hours. This can be done in a stream or pond, a kiddie pool, or even bathtubs or boats!

To ensure that the mycelium has colonised the majority of the log, wait at least a year before shocking it. Instead of waiting two or three years for mushrooms to grow normally, shock is a great technique to accelerate their growth.

When should you harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

It won’t be long before you can harvest and enjoy your lion’s mane mushrooms as they begin to fruit. You might be eating excellent, fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in as little as 4 weeks.

A Lion’s mane mushroom has reached maturity when it stops expanding in diameter and its spines start to lengthen and thicken.

Harvest them before they turn pink or brown for the best taste. To achieve various mane textures, harvest the lion’s mane at various stages of growth and maturity. Younger lion’s mane mushrooms are firmer than their older counterparts.

Cut the “ball” off close to the base of the Lion’s Mane using a sharp knife, being careful not to injure the fruit. If handled gently to avoid bruising, lion’s mane will stay considerably longer in the fridge.

How should Lion’s Mushroom be stored?

Fresh lion’s mane keeps for about a week in the refrigerator. If you have more lion’s mane mushrooms than you can use in a week, dry them out in a food dehydrator or oven to store them.

Fresh vs Dried

Keep them refrigerated and away from water if you’re storing them fresh. Keep in mind that they will only survive a few days in the fridge.

If you want to keep the mushrooms fresh, put them in a paper bag that isn’t too full. They must be able to breathe and keep away from direct dampness; otherwise, they will absorb it like sponges.

If you discover any dark or soft places on a mushroom, or if the mushroom feels squishy and slimy, it’s a dead giveaway that it’s going bad.

Consider drying your mushrooms for a longer-term approach to storing them.

You must finely slice your mushrooms after properly washing them. After that, you set them on your tray and dehydrate them. They’ll be there for the next 6-8 hours. Once completely dry and crisp, seal in a jar and store until ready to eat.

Although this is a straightforward method for long-term storage, it can be time-consuming.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom FAQs

Are Lion’s Mane Good for You?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are a type of medicinal mushroom with a variety of health advantages.

According to research, lion’s mane mushrooms can strengthen the immune system which protects the body from pathogens that enter through the nose and mouth.

Are Lion’s Mane’s Mushrooms Legal?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are perfectly legal. It’s only that fresh lion’s mane is hard to come by, and you’re unlikely to find them at your local supermarket.

What substrates does Lion’s Mane grow best on?

The following are the best types of substrate for growing your Lion’s Mane:

• Hardwood logs (I.e. Ash or Beech)
• Hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP)
• Master’s Mix Supplemented

Other Growing Guides

How To Grow Oyster Mushrooms

How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: Everything You Need To Know

How To Grow Mushrooms In Coffee Grounds

How To Grow Mushrooms In Buckets

How To Grow Mushrooms Outdoors With A Mushroom Bed

Bald eagles are apex predators in North America and have been known to attack and eat small animals, including cats. While eagles typically go after prey that is sick or wounded, they have been known to attack healthy animals if they are hungry enough. If you have a cat that spends time outdoors, it is important to be aware of the risk of an eagle attack. There are steps you can take to protect your cat, including keeping it indoors or supervising it when it is outside.

Because the Bald Eagle has powerful hooked beaks and large claws, cats can be killed by one of its large claws or beaks. In general, bald eagles will not target cats. When the bird catches fish out of the water with its talons, it will use its prey to pull it from the water. Despite their lack of aggression, bald eagles are not considered dangerous to humans. Preyers can kill bald eagles, but they are more likely to kill their eaglets or eggs. Bald eagles have been killed when they perch on power lines in the past. Although the Bald Eagle is not endangered, it is protected by a variety of federal laws and regulations.

Bald eagles were granted protection by the Continental Congress in 1777. If old forests where Bald eagles can often live are removed, they will most likely no longer be able to find a home and will die. It is illegal under the 1972 amendment to the United States Constitution to kill a Bald Eagle. It is possible to be fined $5,000 or imprisoned for up to one year for the same offense. If you are caught twice, you will face a $10,000 fine and two years in prison.

How Heavy Of An Animal Can A Bald Eagle Pick Up?

What are the Heaviest Eagle Hunting Calls? A bald eagle can travel up to 7 pounds if it is in good health. Even with larger eagles, they can only carry 12 to 13 pounds at a time, making them nearly impossible for larger eagles to lift.

How much weight can an adult bald eagle carry? A bald eagle carries a large stick, as seen by photographer Alex Lamine on November 4th, 2015 at Berry College. Mr. North dropped an unknown object of unknown weight from the ground on November 6, 2019, despite the fact that it appeared to be more than he could lift from the ground. As the air pressure rises and the wind picks up, the ability to take off and stay airborne increases, all of which affects the ability to fly and then stay airborne at the same time. The FAA points out that center of gravity deviations of less than three inches can have a significant impact on handling characteristics of fully loaded aircraft. A few of Neil Rettig’s observations from filming bald eagles along the Mississippi river were shared. According to Jim, eagles can lift even more in high winds.

Bald eagles are commonly thought to weigh less than 50-60% of their body weight. A bald eagle should have a body weight of 10%. If the incentives and flying conditions were optimal, the aircraft may have a greater capacity. With a weight of 108%, eagles can carry or glide. Among birds with males, the American kestrel has 145%, the Pallas’ Fish Eagle has 160%, and the tiny Calliope Hummingbird has 116%. DM2 took the fight to the Berry College girl after Mr. North and the Berry College male both failed. After he dropped the stick, it was much easier for him to lift from the ground. DM2 appeared to glide down rather than lift up, carrying him right into the nest, and his giant stick appeared to carry him all the way.

The worst nightmare for birds is when they come into contact with dogs. According to the National Wildlife Federation, eagles are not afraid to lift a dog up to 15 pounds, and they frequently do so. They are known for their incredible hunting ability, which is attributed to their strength and agility. Hawks, including eagles, eat dogs the most. The dogs, as small and weak as they are, are easy prey for predators. Birds of prey have become more common in urban and suburban areas, posing a threat to humans and their pets. They are magnificent birds capable of catching a lot of food, and they are powerful and powerful birds. The eagle is a predator, capable of catching and carrying small animals in addition to catching and carrying small prey. Make sure your dog is kept indoors and kept in close observation if you are concerned that he or she will be snatched by an eagle.

What Bird Can Pick Up A Cat?

There is no definitive answer to this question as it depends on the size and strength of the bird in question. Generally speaking, however, most birds would not be able to pick up a cat due to the size difference between the two animals. There have been isolated incidents of birds carrying off small kittens or cats, but this is rare and would likely require an exceptionally large and strong bird.

When a cat is looking for something, it is referred to as an opportunistic hunter. Birds, mice, rats, and other small vertebrates will all be consumed by these creatures. It is critical that a cat bite into an animal’s neck as soon as possible in order to kill it. The bite will break the spine, crush the trachea, or sever the carotid artery, all while snapping your neck. The cat will begin its hunt by stalking its prey. It will keep an eye on the bird while lowering itself to the ground. The cat usually advances quickly on the bird. When the cat reaches its range, it will leap at the bird, aiming its palm at it as it pounces.

Large owls are thought to have carried away cats in the past. Because cats and owls are nocturnal creatures, they are more active at night. Although it is extremely unlikely and very rare, large owl species are said to have carried away cats. It is common for owls and cats to spend the majority of their time in the dark at night. In general, owls are the primary prey for small dogs and cats under the age of 20 pounds. Despite the anecdotal evidence, it is not something that should be taken lightly, despite the fact that this is a highly unlikely occurrence. The owl and cat should not be treated lightly and should not be overlooked as predators capable of causing significant harm.

Cats Are Safe From Being Picked Up By Hawks, Bald Eagles, And Ravens

Cats cannot be picked up by a raven, hawk, or bald eagle because they are too small. In general, crows can catch and pick up a small cat, but this is unlikely because after catching the cat, the crow can move on to another prey.

Do Bald Eagles Attack Pets?

Small dogs and puppies, particularly toy or miniature breeds, are especially vulnerable to being attacked by birds of prey, according to The Spruce Pets. Large raptors are known to prey on animals weighing up to 20 pounds as part of a hunt.

Experts tell me that an eagle almost never attacks your dog. Bald eagles can carry up to three pounds in weight, with one to two pounds per animal. Eagle attacks on dogs weighing less than three pounds are not as common as they are on cats. Goldfinches, tree sparrows, and snow buntings are the most common birds to be seen on the roadside. Birds are typically in a body temperature range of 105 degrees F to 105 degrees F, and the more fluff they generate, the more air they expel. Are freeze-dried mealworms of the same type as live mealworms? In the winter months, there are fewer migrating birds and a few remaining in Duluth.

Birds consume fat on a daily basis in the winter to help protect themselves from cold weather. Because raw suet is available during the winter months, the plant is similar to what Mother Nature provides for mammals. You can also make homemade fatty treats and suet cakes, both of which are excellent.

What are some things that eat the bald eagle? Bald eagles, which are carnivorous animals, are not preyed upon in the wild. bobcats, wolverines, black bears, foxes, raccoons, and large birds are all common prey species for these young. Farmers, hunters, and ranchers have all tried various methods of removing these predators, but they remain a problem. Scarecrows are said to deter eagles from using an area for a short period of time, typically three weeks. If dogs are aggressive toward predators, they may repel eagles. Hazing with aircraft has a limited economic value and must be approved by the Director of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS). Despite its status as the national bird of the United States, the bald eagle is vulnerable. We must all work together as a nation to make certain that these birds are protected, which is why the US Fish and Wildlife Service is working to protect them.

Bald Eagles: Don’t Let Your Pets Become A Meal

Birds, according to Gail Buhl, education manager at the Raptor Center, are typically fed fish or other birds, but puppies and kittens can also be fed to eagles. Despite the fact that bald eagles can pick up small puppies, they are not capable of carrying them very far and may sustain injuries if they fall. It is unacceptable to leave your pets outside without your supervision.

Do Eagles Attack Pets

Do eagles attack pets? It is possible for an eagle to attack a pet if the animal is small enough and the eagle is feeling particularly threatened or hungry. However, attacks on pets are not common and typically only occur if the eagle is unable to find other food sources.

Birds, unlike venomous reptiles and spiders, can be just as dangerous for small pets. A razor-sharp eagle‘s nacelle is capable of impaleing prey at a rate of 400 pounds per square inch. When diving, a bald eagle can reach speeds of up to 100 miles per hour. An eagle can attack a dog weighing less than ten pounds at the most dangerous time. If an eagle attack is severe enough, the treatment and prognosis will be determined. In most cases, the dog will not survive unless it has only suffered minor puncture wounds. If your dog is struck by an eagle, there is a chance he will be injured, most likely by breaking bones, concussions, or organ damage.

Cover your dog’s outdoor enclosure if it is located near an eagle or other predatory bird. Small dogs may benefit from wearing protective gear like the puncture-resistant Raptor Shield in order to avoid being attacked by eagles. A short, non-retractable leash is best for playing outside and potty breaks.

The Beagle, on the other hand, may act on its own in response to perceived threats to its safety or to the Beagles’ perceptions of cats as prey. Even if the Beagles are unfamiliar with cats, they may still attack if they are cornered or threatened. Beagles have been accused of attacking cats out of instinct, despite the fact that they have never met cats before. As a result, both the cat and the Beagle may be harmed or even killed. It is critical to remember that even if your Beagle is friendly with cats, it will occasionally attack if threatened or cornered. If you are concerned about your cat’s safety, it is best to keep them separate from the Beagles.

Eagle Attacks: How To Keep Your Pets Safe

As a result, if eagles are in the area, keep your cat indoors during times when it is safe to do so. If you see an eagle in the area, keep your dog on a leash and keep your children away from it.

Do Bald Eagles Eat Rabbits

Some Bald Eagles eat primarily fish; others consume other birds such as gulls and geese, depending on their environment. Some mammals, like rabbits, lambs, and, yes, even adorable kittens, are more common than others on the menu.

Small animals and birds, such as rabbits, hares, grouses, and ptarmigans, are frequently eaten by eagles. A bald eagle can eat both fish and birds, such as ducks, geese, and puffins. Birds such as Golden eagles are common preyers of ducks, but adult owls are rarely targeted in hunting. Birds such as hawks, eagles, and other owls have been observed preying on owls. Birds are naturally enemies of one another, as is the case with eagles and hawks. Birds, like owls, will hunt hawks in order to find nesting sites, and eagles will hunt hawks as well. Bald eagles are capable of preying on cats, whereas most bald eagles are carnivores who primarily consume fish.

Young foxes, as well as full-grown foxes, are also preyed upon by eagles. It is a carnivore that eats rodents, other birds, and snakes. Bald eagles can weigh up to 7 or 8 pounds when they are at their best. Even the world’s largest eagles cannot carry more than 10 or 12 pounds at a time, but a small eagle can carry more than that.

Bald eagles are preyed upon by anglers, and they can be found in high numbers when there are a lot of fish. In addition to seabirds and ducks, small mammals like rabbits, squirrels, prairie dogs, and muskrats can be found on grasslands and marshes. Even though Tuesday’s feline feast may have been shocking or disturbing to some viewers, there are many good reasons to keep your cats indoors, such as “they might get slaughtered and eaten by eagles.”

Do Eagles Eat Rabbits?

Can eagles eat carrot? They consume rabbits. Adult rabbits, even those with small screech owls, can quickly be overwhelmed by the large barn owls, barred owls, hawk owls, or great horned owls that live nearby, even if they are not hunting. What types of rabbits do eagles eat? Cottontail rabbits (Sylvilagus spp.; hereafter, cottontails) are among the most commonly identified prey items in the diets of golden eagle breeding in the western United States (U.S.). What does a hawk eat besides spiders? Other birds are primarily eaten by Cooper’s Hawks, but if prey appears, they will consume squirrels, rabbits, and rodents. A Cooper’s hawk, unlike other raptors, kills by repeatedly squeezing its prey with its powerful talons, unlike other raptors that kill by grabbing their prey and biting the heads off.

Do Bald Eagles Eat Chickens

When the eagle is gliding down, it unfurls its hand-like claws, scoops up a chicken, and then circles up a branch to eat, with the larger bird laying the smaller bird on the branch for easy eating. The eagle’s beak is quite effective at removing the meat of other birds, but it is unknown when the chicken dies.

Bald eagles are on the loose at White Oak Farm in rural Georgia every winter. With little time and resources, the farmers are racing to adapt. One of the largest pasture flocks can be found here in White Oak. Approximately 60,000 birds wander the land on a regular basis, as long as the land is pasture-raised. Gary Harris sought assistance from the National Audubon Society in dealing with the birds. White Oak Pastures, a 2,500-acre farm in Georgia, raises pigs, chickens, cattle, pigs, sheep, goats, and many other animals. Because the animals move across the land and their droppings help fertilize it, this arrangement benefits both birds and ruminants.

The chickens also consume bugs found in cow dung, reducing the number of pests that can affect the cattle. We sell our products in Whole Foods in major cities throughout the southeastern United States, including Miami, Florida, and Princeton, New Jersey. It also owns an organic produce farm, small eggs, honey, and pet treats. Harris opened two abattoirs in 2007 and 2011 for a total cost of $7.5 million. However, Harris claims that the eagles are good for business, despite their irrationality. Visitors to the farm’s cabins were drawn in by a Facebook photo of the birds. A Bald Eagle can land in the middle of dozens of chickens and continue to pecking as if nothing had happened.

Daniel Coady claims that the chicken mortality rate at the farm is excessive. When chicks are scared, they flock into a corner of their house, all of which are huddled together in a panic. A $5,000 investment has been made by the farm to purchase noisemakers that must be manually set off between dawn and dusk. The eagles, on the other hand, may provide some financial relief as a result of their financial strain. In Bluffton, Georgia, White Oak Farms is one of the country’s largest privately owned poultry operations. According to Harris, if everyone farmed his land in the same manner that he does, eagles would likely go extinct and be replaced by more healthy populations. Nature’s rejection of monocultures explains why Harris transformed White Oak, according to his account.

How To Protect Your Chickens From Raptors

Birds are more likely to survive if they are kept in a wooded area with hawks and eagles hunting nearby. Using a mesh or solid roof to cover your run will also help keep the birds safe. If you have chickens that are free range, keep them in a secure location when needed.

Do Golden Eagles Eat Cats

Birds frequently eat cats, but rarely. Despite the fact that eagles are meat eaters, they also consume carrion. Fish is the most popular dish, followed by other birds and wildfowl.

Cats are occasionally eaten by eagles, though this is usually by females. Their preferred cuisine is fish, in addition to other birds and wild fowl. Flying an eagle can take it to heights of up to 15,000 feet. It takes about 35-40 miles per hour to cruise. Birds are aerial pirates in the wild, forcing other prey birds to give up their prey. Their greatest threat is man, and eagles nest and hunt far from human habitation. Except for some vultures, the size of an eagle is significantly greater than that of any other raptor.

A bird that swoops and carries its prey is the most common method of bird watching. The only hope for survival for an eagle after it has its talons drawn into its prey is to fall to the ground. An eagle can lift and fly away with an average weight of 4 pounds. The eagles have been observed preying on cats in the past, but this behavior is uncommon among this type of raptor. Birds are not a threat to cats living in urban or suburban areas.

Small dogs, particularly Chihuahuas and Toy Poodles, are prone to being killed by predatory birds. The majority of predatory birds seek out wild mammals for food, but small dogs may also be targeted. Despite the fact that a golden eagle can kill a man, it has never preyed on an adult human. Small dogs, particularly those that are small, such as Chihuahuas and Toy Poodles, are particularly vulnerable to predators. Adult humans are the only ones who have ever been preyed upon by golden eagles, despite their lethal strength.

This firearm transported me back in time and reminded me how shooting can just be plain fun.

Twenty years of law enforcement have me constantly considering how I can be quicker to the draw, faster in my reloads, consideration of cover, and issuing commands while I’m handling my firearm.

My gun is a defender of my life and the lives of others, but there was a time when things were much simpler.

In fact, they were a hoot!

The Ruger Mark IV 22/45 took me back there and I’m going to tell you how it can take you there too.

The Evolution of Fun

Ruger took me back to simpler times when the .22 long rifle was the next logical progression from a BB gun.

Young people growing up in rural areas might be called upon to save their town from the ravages of Black Bart or some other villain.

I had known about the Mark series pistols for some time but had heard mixed reviews because of the engineering behind the handguns. Things have changed significantly.

The order of business when I received the pistol was to take it apart. It really couldn’t have been easier. I made sure it was safe and empty, pressed a button, and it disassembled into four distinct parts which I could tell would be easy to clean.

The worst of my fears abated, I endeavored to see what joy might be gleaned from this modernized shooter.

Outfitting

Heading out to the range a total of five times I endeavored to put the pistol through its paces with four brands of ammo as well as a suppressor to test the gun’s versatility (Ruger makes a variant with a threaded barrel for just such purposes).

Perhaps most importantly, I mounted a Vortex Razor with a 3 MOA dot to give it that modern accuracy, and quick sight acquisition flair.

The 22/45 comes with adjustable iron sights but I wanted to plink with the greatest of ease. It also has a Picatinny rail which I mounted, then bolted on the Vortex. With just a little bit of time to get the Razor adjusted, I dialed it in and soon was plinking away like the days of old. Or wait, not like the days of old, better than the days of old!

By dialing the red dot brightness up or down depending on the lighting conditions, I was able to pull up on target, find my red dot, and start shooting. This was much easier than aligning the front and rear sights like I was used to; it was a modern marvel!

Performance

The trigger had about 1.5 mm of slack before it started to snug, then broke at an average of 3.12 lbs on my Lyman Digital Trigger Gauge. Loading the magazine was interesting too until I learned to pull down on the spring tension release button which held the follower at bay.

The controls were all easily accessible, particularly because I had selected the Ruger Mark IV 22/45. Although I wanted to get away from the responsibility-laden shooting of law enforcement, this model made for an easier bridge.

With one magazine, once you shot the 10 rounds, you were done.

No need to conduct a rapid reload, no need to seek cover or call for some! I soon began to relax and enjoy the sheer simplicities of marksmanship, sending rounds downrange with great accuracy and little regard for heavy recoil or a booming percussion.

A moment of brilliance tugged at my mind’s edge. Hey, this is good enough that my kids might like it.

Despite the attractive nature of the gaming world, most children still crave analog experiences whether they realize it or not—especially when those experiences are shared with loved ones. I took my kids to the range and let them try the Ruger Mark IV also.

My son liked it.

He was comfortable enough that neither the recoil nor the pop of the .22 LR was really an issue for him.

He was big enough to grip the pistol easily and used the Vortex red dot to narrow in on his target and press the trigger back to complete, consistently emptying the magazine, hitting most of what he was aiming for.

My daughter was a bit too small to truly get a good grip on the pistol and reach the trigger also. So, we compromised. She held the gun and aimed intuitively through the Vortex while I provided a little support and pressed the trigger when she was on and said “ready”.

The result was magnificent. Using an old west splatter target, she shot bad guys aplenty and even peppered an errant horse in the butt for being in the vicinity. Much fun was had by both and an entertaining experience was shared by all.

I eventually had to stop shooting for the sheer pleasure and needed to remember I was reviewing this pistol for you, dear reader. I took my four ammo types and set out a target 12 yards away, then carefully fired an entire magazine of each for accuracy.

It wasn’t supported but it was about as accurate a test as you’d need to utilize to measure this plinking marvel.

I used three brands and four types of .22 long rifle. First was CCI, the 40-grain gold standard of plinkers everywhere.

Next were two varieties of Aguila, both 40-grain, one being standard velocity and the other being high velocity.

Finally, I used Federal Premium, also in a 40-grain.

The last I used only during testing of the Gemtech suppressor, and this was Gemtech 42-grain subsonics.

The groupings came in as follows: CCI came in at two inches for ten whole rounds. The ammo was solid, reliable, and predictable with no failures to fire. Both Aguilas performed well, with only a slightly stronger pop distinguishing the high velocity from the standard.

With the high velocity, I achieved a 1.34-inch group and with the standard, I got approximately 2 inches. The Federal also averaged in at a group of 2 inches. All of these ammunitions were reliable and provided an economical level of fun with reasonable accuracy.

Heading to Liberty Firearms Institute on a slow day I was able to test the Gemtech GM-22 out with the Ruger Mark IV. This was a match made in heaven. Unscrewing the thread protector, I removed it and the crush washer before screwing on the suppressor.

I just so happened to be wearing a suit and tie at the time so admonishments from Q came ringing to my ears as a testy “double oh seven!”

I tried three ammo types and measured the difference in sound with a decibel meter about ear’s distance from the muzzle.

There was an ambient noise of approximately 70 dbl. in the range. Using various loads, I noticed a trend. The GM-22 took the rounds down in decibels to just above 100 decibels, removing the sonic crack one typically experiences.

Now, sound experts say 100 decibels will damage your hearing after 8 hours of steady exposure. All I noticed was a slight pop and the action of the bolt clicking.

For its diminutive size, the GM-22 is awesome.

Check out our field-strip video since there’s a few idiosyncrasies on the Mark IV.

By the Numbers

Reliability 5/5

I really racked up a tally with this pistol. Between me and my family, we ran approximately 1,500 rounds through the Ruger Mark IV 22/45. The only hiccup was shooter initiated. The base of the magazine sits deeply into the magwell and I failed to properly seat it once, causing a failure to feed. This was quickly remedied and not duplicated. The gun provided flawless performance and was only cleaned once during testing.

Ergonomics 4/5

The ergos on this pistol are wonderful. I like the slim profile of the grip, just like a 1911, and this also gives it less aesthetically in common with a Luger. The controls are all pretty easy to get to and even smaller hands can make use of them. There is a good design to the backstrap, protecting the shooter’s hand from the bolt that blows back. It is super easy to operate, from loading, firing, to cleaning.

Accuracy 3.5/5

I wouldn’t call the standard 22/45 a card splitting dynamo, but it does really well in what it is designed for. Imagine a few hours on a warm afternoon, plinking at bottles or cans set up in your favorite shooting spot. Or, perhaps you might hang a target such as Dastardly Dan, and work on fundamentals of shooting. The gun’s performance is solid and predictable. Using the Vortex Razor helped simplify things in my mind. For my children, only one address was necessary—put the red dot on what you want to hit!

Customization 4/5

There is a ridiculous amount to customization available to these guns. Ever hear the name Volquartsen or Tandemkross?

You can change out triggers, barrels, grips, heck, just about anything you’d like and upgrade this gun ‘til your heart’s content. I wouldn’t call the market robust, but there are plenty of options out these for those looking to upgrade. Having the ability to add optics like the Vortex Razor and GM-22 suppressor also widen the variety of customization possible with this gun.

Value 4/5

These little pistols are an excellent value. Listed on a few websites between $400 and $500 (depending on model) you can’t go wrong. Is this the all-time home defender pistol? No. Is this the gun you spend quality time teaching your wife or children how to shoot and have countless hours of fun? Yes.

Overall 4/5

Hats off to Ruger for bringing the joy of shooting back to me in a way that is difficult to express.

Field Strip & Reassembly

The field strip and reassembly is a little different so we made a quick video to help you out.

Conclusion

The Ruger Mark IV is fun and easy to shoot. It’s a breeze to clean, it’s economical to feed, the reliability is flawless, and we loved that this little .22LR pistol fits any shooter, even the kids. The accuracy could be tuned up a little, but for a plinker, it’s hard to go wrong.

You can spend a lot of time teaching important fundamentals on this firearm that later translate to other systems. You can bond with members of your family and have a blast while plinking away. You can upgrade it into a race gun also, but it’s simply wonderful just the way it is.

Special thanks to Liberty Firearms Institute for transfers and also for holding the Gemtech suppressor and allowing me to shoot it before my tax stamp was settled.

Do you run a suppressor on your .22lr pistol or rifle? What is your favorite plinker? Let us know in the comments or drop a review below! And if you need ammo for that .22, check out the Best .22 Long Rifle Ammo!

Or looking to mount a red dot? Check out Best Pistol Red Dots.

The porcupine is willing and able to defend itself against attack, but really just wants to be left alone to live its mostly solitary life.

After his horse tangled with a porcupine and ended up with an ankle full of quills, a friend grumbled, “Porcupines, what good are they?” This is the same question another friend asked years ago when he chided me for “wasting a column writing about porcupines”.

It isn’t an unusual question. Humans tend to judge the value of just about everything by how they are personally benefited or vexed by it. That seems to be particularly true of wildlife. If a personal or even general benefit isn’t obvious, then clearly we don’t need that species.

A porcupine is a mild mannered creature wanting nothing more than to go about its business and be left alone. When a dog, horse or human can’t abide the live-and-let-live attitude of the porcupine, it can and will defend itself. And for some reason, humans are offended by that.

Here is a small animal, weighing less than 20 pounds, and we won’t tolerate an act of self defense? Perhaps it rocks our world a bit much. As the self-proclaimed rulers of this world is it an attack on our sovereignty to have an animal, especially a small non aggressive one, be able to put us in our place?

A complaint about porcupines is that they damage trees. Absolutely true. However, that viewpoint is literally missing the forest for the trees. Porcupines evolved with the forests and are part of a system of forest replenishment. Trees damaged by porcupines provide critical habitat for dozens of other species. These trees then become part of the nutrient cycling essential to forest health. Chewing on trees only becomes a “problem” when that tree happens to be in a human’s backyard or is part of a commercial plantation.

In a greater context, our ancestors probably had greater respect for the lowly porcupine as they were once a staple of many human diets. Today, few humans eat them but they remain an important part of mountain lion fare. Sure, they may only make up a few percent of the average lion’s chow and if a lion went hungry rather than feast on porcupine, it might be character building. But having porcupines available when other food is scarce or difficult to catch may also mean the difference between life and death for a lion, a species humans seem to value.

Aesthetically, porcupines are just as fun to watch as other wildlife. They may not be as flamboyant as an elk, as personable as an otter or as cute as a marten, but fun just the same. And I actually like knowing that I approach a porcupine at my own peril. There is sport in that.

Regardless of these clear values, porcupines are part of the system and as such are worthwhile. What watch repairman or auto mechanic would discard a part just because he doesn’t understand its function? As Aldo Leopold said, “It is the first rule of intelligent tinkering to save all the parts.”

We shouldn’t have to understand porcupines to appreciate them.

Wildlife License Plates

Idaho Wildlife license plates provide essential funding that benefits the great diversity of native plants and wildlife that are not hunted, fished or trapped—over 10,000 species or 98% of Idaho’s species diversity. Game species that share the same habitats (such as elk, deer, antelope, sage-grouse, salmon, trout) also benefit from these specialty plates.

No state tax dollars are provided for wildlife diversity, conservation education and recreation programs. Neither are any revenues from the sale of hunting or fishing licenses spent on nongame species. Instead, these species depend on direct donations, federal grants, fundraising initiatives—and the Idaho Wildlife license plates.

Both my vehicles have Bluebird Plates. I prefer the bluebird because the nongame program gets 70 percent of the money from bluebird plates, but only 60 percent of the money from elk and trout plates – 10 percent of the money from elk plates supports wildlife disease monitoring and testing programs (to benefit the livestock industry) and 10 percent from cutthroat plates supports non-motorized boat access.

Incidentally, in 2014, the Idaho Legislature denied the Department of Fish and Game the ability to add new plates or even to change the name of the elk and cutthroat plates (very specific) to wildlife and fish plates, a move that would have allowed for changing images occasionally and generating more revenue. It would seem that they believe that we Idahoans don’t want a well funded wildlife program. Go figure.

Lightning Safety Tips for Fishermen

I love the phenomena of thunderstorms. Like many of you, I’m fascinated by the crackle of lightning bolts and house shaking thunderclaps. Also, like too many people, I’ve unwisely continued fishing while a storm approached when I should have been long gone to safety. Lucky for me, I miraculously survived that ordeal. Honestly, even a record largemouth bass is not worth getting fried over.

Facts about Lightning & Fishing

• Lightning kills 80 to 100 people yearly in the U.S.A little more than half of victims were engaged in outdoor recreation like fishing or boating. Ten times as many are struck but survived with severe, life-long injuries or disabilities. With the height of lightning season upon us, it’s time for fishermen to consider lightning safety.

• You Must Stop Fishing during Lightning.Lightning can strike as many as ten miles away from its source cloud. This is why it is recommended to stop fishing and move indoors as soon any thunder is heard. The debris clouds trailing behind a thunderstorm can produce their own lightning, fishermen should wait 30 minutes after the storm has passed to begin fishing to be completely safe. While inside during a storm stay away from doors and windows, plumbing, wiring, appliances and telephones.

• When to Stop Fishing during Lightning?A somewhat less conservative response to seeing lightning involves the ’30/30 rule.’ Upon spotting lightning, if you can count to 30 before hearing thunder, the odds are you’re out of range of the lightning. A count of five before hearing thunder equals roughly one mile of distance from a lightning strike, a count of ten equals two miles, etc. However, thunderstorms can move as fast as 50mph so the next bolt of lightning could be right on top of you.

William Becker, of the University of Florida, notes that lightning is very unpredictable and bolts contain as much as 100 million volts – a minimum of 500,000 times the electricity needed to power a sparkplug! Lightning follows Ben Franklin’s ‘path of least resistance’ rule, and guess what? The path can easily be through a fisherman’s body, which happens to conduct electricity quite well. So, if it’s impossible to seek indoor shelter and you are trapped outside during a thunderstorm, reducing your exposure is critical. Lightning Safety Tips for FishermenWhat to do When You See Lightning?

First thing to do

1) Lay down your fishing rods, they could act like an antennae and draw a lightning strike right to you. If on land,

• seek like-sized shrubs or a group of small trees, get low and avoid touching the plants. On open terrain like fishing beaches or desert potholes with no form of cover, find a low spot and crouch on your heels.

• Never move towards solitary trees and avoid isolated structures like gazebos or picnic table covers (especially if they are constructed of metal), lightning can travel as much a 60 feet sideways after striking an object. An automobile – but not convertibles or cars with a fiberglass roof – offer some shelter but put your hands in your lap and avoid contact with the steering wheel, radio, ignition, etc.

2) If you are on a Boat

Boaters are at great risk during lightnings. They are often the highest object on the water’s surface. Even distant thunder or lightning flashes should trigger an immediate move toward shelter on land.

• Lower all fishing rods and radio antennasThen crouch down without contacting any metal railings, wiring, or the motor; don’t get in the water or dangle your legs or hands in the water.

• Disconnect the VHF radio and GPSThis way they may survive a lightning strike. Lightning protection systems are available for some fishing boats but getting off the water is safer.

Lightning strikes the United States around 25 million times per year.

Most Florida fishermen won’t be ‘shocked’ to hear their state annually has more strikes than any other. However, NOAA notes that lightning occurs in all fifty states. Lightning can occur at any time, but late afternoon hours are the most dangerous periods for lightning strikes, and folks spending time outside in open areas like fields or beaches are the most common victims. So make yourself aware of the weather forecast before heading out to fish and if the predictions include thunderstorms plan on returning home before the storms are due to bubble up.Fishing for bass, walleye, trout, catfish, bream, or whichever species you favor, can be a fun way to enjoy the great outdoors if you keep in mind lightning safety whenever you grab your fishing rods for a day on the water.

To spot and stalk or ambush hunt — that is the question

I have always been plagued with that dilemma ever since I started down this venture we call hunting. Growing up, we always still hunted or ambush hunted. I really wasn’t exposed to spot and stalk hunting until a few years ago. When I did go down the spot and stalk path, I couldn’t help but just want to find somewhere where I could sit and wait for that bear or buck to walk by though. In turn, when I was ambush hunting, I couldn’t stop thinking about what I could be seeing if I was glassing at that time. It was definitely a “grass is greener on the other side” scenario for me and, sometimes, it still is.

So which is better?

I feel like there really isn’t a concrete answer for this question. Everybody is different and different situations call for different types of hunting strategies. For instance, it wouldn’t be the best idea to spot and stalk hunt in country where you couldn’t see 10’ in front of you. This would call for more of a still hunting/ambush hunting approach. The whole idea behind spot and stalk is to spot the animal from a good distance away and plan a stalk in order to get close enough for a shot. Could that be done in dense country? Yes, it could. Is it the most productive way of hunting there? In my opinion, no. Let’s take a look at both applications.

Spot and stalk

This is by far my favorite way to hunt. Sitting on a high vantage point and overlooking vast open country with my binoculars brings a calming feeling to me. It’s like a never ending puzzle that is begging to be solved. Where will you see the animals? What animals will you see? Will you even see anything? If you do, how are you going to make your approach? I have learned more about deer hunting this way than any other animal. It is such an added benefit, in my opinion, to be able to sit there and watch animals from a long ways away act like themselves and do their thing. What part of the hill do they tend to walk on? What facing slope are they choosing over the others? Where are they bedding? That one is the most important, especially for a spot and stalk bowhunter. If you can glass a deer up and actually watch where it beds, now the game has really begun. Being able to do this is going to give you a lot more time to get over to where that animal is because you really don’t need to worry too much about that animal moving its position. Also, if you have never experienced the rush of sneaking up on a bedded deer or herd of elk, you are missing out. This is where our natural predatory instincts kick in and they are put to the ultimate test. Try it out sometime.

Ambush hunting

This type of hunting brings its own set of adrenaline rush. I can remember being a kid and sitting up against a tree with my dad. It was the first archery hunt that I had ever gone on. The day before we saw two or three amazing mule deer bucks and found a prominent trail leading up a fence line right towards where we were positioned for the morning. Just as the sun was peaking over the hillside in front of me, I saw antlers along with it. A beautiful old buck with a gray patch on his back slowly worked his way down towards me. I was so shaken up, I literally couldn’t pick up my bow. The old warrior walked right past me at 10 yards without an arrow to his name. That deer still haunts me.

Continued below.

Ambush hunting can be the most boring experience known to mankind, especially if you are a little kid. I have had the thought of bringing an audio book with me into the blind or perhaps a podcast. The hard nose in me says that this will take away from my experience and that those things don’t belong in the mountains and maybe they don’t. The plus with it, though, is that if you do see something, chances are you are going to be presented with a shot. I will admit that it is a very exciting experience hearing something walking towards you and not being able to see it until it comes into view. There is no better way to get close to game than letting the game get close to you.

Which method is the best way to go?

I am afraid that only you can answer that question. How do you prefer to hunt? If you don’t care, then take a look at the country you will be hunting. What application do you think is going to lend success? I myself prefer to spot and stalk as I have stated above. Because of this, I try to find country that allows me to do so. The past few months, I have been fighting with myself on how to approach my next spring bear hunt. In the past it has been a constant battle of spot and stalk or ambush hunting. In the end, I decided to do what makes me happy and plays to my strengths, successful or not. If you like sitting in a blind or treestand, then do it! If you’re like me and enjoy looking through your optics and playing “Where’s Waldo?” with the quarry you seek, then do it! You write your own story.

Always know your target before you pull the trigger. This is one of the golden rules of hunting. It’s not enough to just know that you’re shooting at a turkey. Just as in duck hunting you must know the species (and sometimes the sex). In deer hunting, you must be able to tell a buck from a doe. Well in turkey hunting, you must know the difference between a turkey hen vs a tom turkey.

A hen is a female turkey. They lay eggs and commonly make sounds known as clucks, yelps, cuts, kee-kees, and purrs.

A male turkey is known as a tom. Toms will make sounds known as gobbling, spitting, drumming, and yelping.

A juvenile tom is called a jake. For more information on jakes including whether you should shoot them or not, read our full article on the subject.

In most states, the law requires a harvest of only tom turkeys during the spring season. Some states allow you to shoot bearded hens. During fall seasons, there are states that allow both sexes to be harvested while others still only allow toms to be harvested.

As you can see, it is very important to be able to tell a tom from a hen. So let’s get into the differences.

Beard

Toms generally have a beard protruding from their chest. In a mature tom, these beards are usually seven inches or longer in length. Jakes will have shorter beards. Some toms have multiple beards.

Beards are black and are made of feather-like bristles.

The beard is usually easy to pick up when hunting so it is a key identifier. However, you can’t totally rely on the beard when identifying a turkey hen vs. a tom.

You see, some hens have beards. According to Julie Craven at BirdWatching, 5-10 percent of all hen turkeys have beards. And if that’s not confusing enough, some toms suffer from “beard rot” leaving them with a thin beard or even no beard at all. Beard rot results from vitamin deficiency in a turkey.

So a beard is a good guideline, but not a hard rule. What else can we use to tell a hen from a tom?

Spurs

For the most part, only toms and jakes grow spurs or “hooks”. In fact, spurs provide a rough estimate of the age of the tom. The theory is that the longer the spur, the older the turkey. The jake has a short, rounded spur while a three-year-old bird can have spurs longer than one inch in length.

A spur is a claw-like feather on the backside of the leg. They can be very sharp. Toms use the spurs to fight other gobblers and establish dominance. Spurs can vary in color from black to pink.

Unfortunately, spurs wear down, break, and even fall off. It can also be difficult to see the spurs of a tom in the field. So let’s move on to another factor we can use to differentiate a hen from a tom.

Size

Toms are bigger than hens. They typically run 11 to 24 pounds. A hen weighs from 5 to 12 pounds. The heaviest tom on record is 37.6 pounds.

Toms are also usually a bit longer than hens. The largest toms can be over four feet in length while the longest hens are usually just over three feet in length.

Size differences can be useful for determining sex if you have a mature tom and a hen. If you are seeing them separately in the field, it can be tough to determine gender based on size. Keep in mind that jakes and larger hens can be similar in size as well.

Size is another tool in our toolbox, but what other clues can we use?

Head

The head is a great way to differentiate a tom from a hen as you will likely be focused on the head.

A tom’s head will be a combination of red, white, and blue. It is generally featherless. Toms also have a longer snood than a hen. The snood is the fleshy protuberance above the bill. It can contract, expand, and change colors based on the turkey’s mood.

The hen’s head is much less flashy than the tom’s. It is a blue-ish gray color. As mentioned above, the snood will be much shorter than a tom’s. Hen’s have small feathers on their heads.

The head is not the only coloring difference between a hen vs a tom turkey. Let’s look at the rest of their feathers.

Plumage

As you might have guessed, tom turkeys have flashier feathering than the hen like most other avian species.

The hen’s overall feathering is a browner tint than the darker, blacker tom’s. The tips of the feathers on a hen are more of a buff color. The tom turkey has dark, black color tips.

Let’s talk about how to identify the gender of a bird when tracking turkeys.

Tracks

As you might assume, the bigger tom has a bigger track than the smaller hen. If you find a track that is longer than four inches, it is probably a tom. Hen turkey tracks will usually be about three and a half inches in length.

Finally, there is another sign a turkey leaves behind.

Droppings

Yep, you can tell the sex of a turkey by its excrement. Toms leave a long, sometimes j-shaped dropping. These droppings are generally about two inches in length.

Tom droppings are easily distinguished from the more clumped together hen excrement.

Turkey Hen vs Tom: Final Thoughts

Determining the sex of a turkey is not easy when you are first getting started. As you become more experienced, you will learn to recognize toms and hens faster.

A good rule of thumb is to only shoot a bird after you have identified two distinguishing traits. For instance, if you see red on the head and a beard on the breast, you can feel confident that you are shooting a legal tom.

The exception to this rule would be if you are hunting in a state that allows you to shoot any bearded turkey, and you are fine taking a hen.

Hopefully, this article has made you feel a bit more comfortable in recognizing your game this hunting season. Bookmark this page and look at the pictures periodically to refresh yourself on the signs of a turkey hen vs a tom.

If you enjoyed this article, you may also like to read about the sounds a hen turkey makes.

The rain was coming down by the bucket and I huddled under a pine tree, praying that I wouldn’t get too wet. My proprietary waterproof system had utterly failed, and I wasn’t too surprised. An old ski parka layered on top of a fleece vest wasn’t exactly the bastion of water-repellence technology I hoped it would be. As a result of being wet and cold, I was missing out on the fishing—for golden trout, of all things! If you’ve ever fished for golden trout before, you know getting to them is half the battle.

It was on this trip that I learned the real value of a solid wading jacket, and I resolved to buy a nice one after getting out of that downpour. The problem I ran into, though, was how to pick the right one for me. I wasn’t sure where to start, and the reviews of wading jackets at the time didn’t exactly clear things up for me.

That’s what I aim to do with this piece. We’ll dive into some of the features you should look for in a wading jacket, as well as some factors to consider that will likely influence your decision. As always, we’ll end with a list of wading jackets that I’ve either personally used myself or had recommended to me by anglers I know and trust.

Consider the conditions

The first thing to consider when looking for the best wading jacket for you is the conditions it’ll most likely be used in. Since I live and fish mostly in the Rocky Mountains, I don’t need a bombproof rain jacket like my buddies in southeast Alaska use. They’re in the rain more often than not. I rarely face conditions that tough.

You can quickly spend a lot of cash on wading jackets if you opt for the ultra-premium steelheader-deluxe models. While those are nice to have, they’re far from necessary for the fishing I do. There’s a fine line between being prepared and preparing for a disaster that won’t ever happen.

Keep it warm

I’m a firm believer in layering for any outdoor activity, and fishing in the rain is no exception. I prefer a rain shell over an insulating layer, as that’s what keeps me most comfortable on the water. I’m sure plenty of anglers agree with that.

But do you? That’s the key here. If you want a do-it-all wading jacket that both keeps you dry and insulates, go for it. Don’t let one person’s opinion talk you out of picking a piece of gear you know you’ll enjoy.

Packability

Finally, my favorite wading jackets are packable. They’ll squeeze down and fit in a backpack, under the seat in a drift boat, or anywhere else where they’re out of the way. A good packable wading jacket should be light, too, so that carrying it around all day if the forecast calls for rain doesn’t become an inconvenience.

So with all of these features in mind, let’s take a look at the wading jackets I’d personally recommend.

Skwala RS Jacket

• Insane build quality
• Thoughtful design
• Light and packable

The Skwala RS Jacket is the standard to which I personally measure every non-insulated wading jacket. Yes, Skwala is a new company, but their products are among the best on the market. What makes the RS Jacket stand out is its insanely high build quality and attention to detail. The RS Jacket is designed a half-size larger to fit over an insulating layer and your waders, so you don’t have to worry about this jacket being a tight fit. The pull tabs for the jacket’s hood are located inside the chest pockets to eliminate anything that might potentially catch fly line. And this thing will hold up to the worst downpours imaginable. It also helps cut the wind, and is extremely well-articulated, so it doesn’t bunch up when you’re hiking, rowing, or casting. What more could you ask for from your wading jacket?

Simms Bulkley Insulated Jacket

• Insulated for added warmth
• Fly box friendly pockets
• GORE-TEX lined

The Bulkley Insulated Jacket is Simms’ answer to the worst weather conditions imaginable. Seriously, this thing is bomb-proof. For starters, it’s lined with GORE-TEX both inside and out, which Simms says will keep you dry even if you’re wading in past your belly. The PrimaLoft insulation is proven to keep you warm, and Simms engineered the sleeves to prevent water from flowing up them even if you stick your arm in the river. The pockets are designed with fly boxes in mind so you’ll always have what you need within easy reach. If the ultimate in both warmth and waterproofing are what you’re after, the Bulkley is hard to beat.

Orvis Clearwater Wading Jacket

• Very breathable
• Rear D-ring for net attachment
• Lots of pockets

The Orvis Clearwater Wading Jacket offers a ton of features in a more budget-friendly price range. I’m particularly fond of the integrated D-ring for attaching a net, which removes the need to wear a full fishing pack with this jacket. It’s designed to slip over the top of all your gear, freeing you up to move unencumbered while on the water. The Clearwater also features a three-layer nylon shell that’ll keep you dry but offers superior breathability, as well. Add on the legendary Orvis quality and you’re looking at a wonderful wading jacket.

Frogg Toggs Ultra-Lite Jacket

• Incredibly light
• Cheap
• Completely waterproof

This jacket from Frogg Toggs costs a whopping $24.99, and it’s one of my absolute favorites. This thing is light, and packs down tiny. It’ll fit in a day pack without any problem. But it’s also completely waterproof, and does a decent job of retaining some of your body heat. Now, this is a no-frills jacket, intended only to keep you dry. You’re not getting a slim, well-cut hood, or articulated sleeves. What you’re getting is the best bang-for-your-buck rain jacket on the market, and one I used for years before getting a wading jacket that had a few more features.

Patagonia Swiftcurrent Wading Jacket

• Made from recycled nylon
• Low-profile pockets
• Snag-free design

Patagonia’s Swiftcurrent Wading Jacket is just another excellent entry in the company’s line of fantastic gear. This wading jacket places an emphasis on reducing or eliminating the possibility for your fly line to snag on it, which is a feature many anglers should appreciate. The fully-waterproof shell is made from 100-percent recycled nylon and it has plenty of pockets for storing fly boxes and all your terminal tackle. The jacket only weighs a hair over 22 ounces making it extremely light and easy to stuff into a day pack.

There are tons of wading jacket options on the market, and this list is only intended as a jumping-off point. Remember to carefully consider what features you do and don’t need. Something minimalist like the Frogg Toggs might be perfect for you while your buddy may need something with all the pockets and hemmed hoods.

Regardless of what you choose, make sure to take care of the jacket so it takes care of you when you need it most.