Night fishing for trout can be a real challenge, but it can also come with great rewards. Some of the biggest trout come out at night and can be caught close to shore. There are a lot of questions around trout fishing at night and I hope to answer them for you here.

Do Trout Come Out At Night?

As trout mature, they tend to do most of their hunting and feeding during the night. They come out at night to hunt for minnows, shiners, mice, and smaller fish.

This is why night is a great time if you want to target big fish. The majority of an average trout’s diet is made up of insects and worms. However, as they grow in size (typically over 20″), they will look for bigger meals such as minnows and smaller fish.

Of course, if the opportunity arises during daylight, they will attack a wounded or unsuspecting minnow. This is why lures work so well at catching trout. However, it is much easier for these big trout to sneak up on and ambush prey in the darkness of night.

Big trout come out at night not only because hunting is easier, but also because it is safer. A big trout’s only real predators are birds, humans, and sometimes bears. This makes it dangerous for them to move into the shallows during the day where they can be seen. But at night they can safely move into the shallows where their prey is plentiful.

Do Trout Sleep?

Trout sleep, but not in the same way that we humans do. Rather than shutting completely down, they will go into a sort of trance. They may even need to continue swimming if they are in a river.

Is Trout Fishing Good At Night?

Normally, trout fishing is not very good at night, however the exception is if you are targeting trout over 20 inches. Big trout feed on smaller fish, and they are most actively hunting at night.

What Time of Day is Best For Trout Fishing?

The best time to fish for trout is around sunrise and sunset. The reason is because this is when there is the most bug activity. Bugs are the main food source for 99% of trout. That being said, the best time to catch giant trout is after dark.

So all in all, If you are fishing an area with only smaller trout, you are probably better off fishing during the day light. But if you know there are some big trout over 20 inches, then it may be worth fishing after dark.

Do Trout See At Night?

Trout are a major predator within their ecosystem and rely heavily on eyesight. Although they don’t have night vision, they are good at detecting movement and seeing outlines.

When you are choosing the lure you’ll use to fish for trout at night, it’s important to use opaque, dark colors, as well as fish-like profiles.

Biologists have also been doing a lot of research on something called lateral lines. These are built in sensors that fish use to detect vibrations and other disturbances in the water. These lateral lines play a huge role in helping trout key in on their target. So even if a fish can’t see your lure, it will likely be able to detect the vibrations of it.

Can You Catch Trout at Night With PowerBait?

You can catch trout with PowerBait at night, but it not as effective as lures or even worms. Trout rely partially on vibrations to hunt prey at night, and since PowerBait doesn’t make any movement, it doesn’t put off any vibrations.

PowerBait is also designed to catch stocked trout rather than wild trout

Do Stocked Trout Bite at Night?

Stocked rainbow trout generally don’t bite at night. They have been raised in a controlled environment and fed fish pellets their whole life. Although they still have some natural instincts, they haven’t grown up with a need to hunt for food at night.

And as I mentioned earlier, the trout that feed at night are for the most part, big trout that rely heavily on eating smaller fish to maintain their size. Stocked trout are usually around 8 to 12 inches and after being stocked in the lake or river, will eat mainly insects and other small bugs.

If you want to fish for stocked trout, your best bet would be to use worms.

Trout Fishing at Night with Worms

Worms are a good bait for catching trout at night. They put off both smell and movement which can help trout to find them in the dark. Fish them under a bobber close to the shore. They work best during or after a rain.

Bait fishing for trout at night isn’t the most effective method. Most trout aren’t hunting for food at night, so it’s important to catch their attention and trigger their instinct with something like a spinner or Rapala. These will put off a strong vibration alerting trout near by.

Lure Colors For Trout Fishing at Night

Since it is more difficult for trout to see at night, it is important to use colors that will give clear profiles for trout to see. This is done best with colors like black, purple and dark blue. These will have a solid outline against a moonlit or starry sky.

You should avoid clear swimbaits that will be difficult for fish to see.

If you want to learn more check out my article on lure colors for night fishing.

Trout Fishing at Night with Lights

Some anglers use lights at night to fish for speckled sea trout. These lights can attract speckled trout and help to illuminate your baits and lures. However, lights do not work well for attracting freshwater trout when night fishing. In fact, lights are likely to scare fish away.

You should still bring a head lamp or a flashlight for your own use of getting around in the dark, but try not to shine the light into the area you are trying to fish.

Some night anglers prefer using red lights because they allow your eyes to stay dilated so you can see better in the dark.

Brown Trout at Night

Your best chances at having a good experience night fishing for trout is to go somewhere that is known for big brown trout. Brown trout are the most active at night and are extremely aggressive.

Use solid dark colored swimbaits, spinners, and even topwater lures. Most of the brown trout move into shallow water near the banks at night. They are hunting for minnows, frogs, and even mice.

Brown trout have some of the most sensitive lateral lines amongst trout. This is why it can be vary important to utilize lures that vibrate, rattle and splash.

Conclusion

If you want to try night fishing for trout, go somewhere that is known for having big trout over 20 inches, preferably big browns. Use lures that put off a lot of vibration and or splash near the surface. Focus mainly in shallow water near shore. And be careful not to shine lights into the spots you are fishing.

The Tlingit (/ˈklɪŋkɪt/ or /ˈtlɪŋɡɪt/; also spelled Tlinkit; Russian: Тлинкиты) are indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast of North America. Their language is the Tlingit language (natively Lingít, pronounced [ɬɪ̀nkɪ́tʰ]), in which the name means ‘People of the Tides’. The Russian name Koloshi (Колоши, from a Sugpiaq-Alutiiq term kulut’ruaq for the labret worn by women) or the related German name Koulischen may be encountered referring to the people in older historical literature, such as Grigory Shelikhov‘s 1796 map of Russian America.

How Raven Brought Light and Why Seagulls Cry

Before humans, the animals lived on the Earth. Each were given a cedar box from the Great Spirit, and when they opened the boxes mountains, rivers, trees and everything nice came out. (It’s the reserve Pandora’s Box!) Thus, the geography of the Earth was made. However, there was a problem. Why was it so dark?! The animals were walking into each other. Birds were flying into mountains. All in all, it was a bad time. So, where was the box full of light? Oh shit. Seagull had it. Not good. Seagull is like it’s MINE! No one is allow to touch it. Then he holds the box protectingly under his wings. But what is a trickster if they don’t have a plan? So, Raven flew up the Seagull and was like, can’t you open the box? Seagull is like mine. Raven flattered Seagull. He begged Seagull. He lied to Seagull. He tried every trick up in his arsenal. And what does Seagull do?

LAST FORT OF THE TLINGIT

In Alaska, in the early 19th century, the Tlingit – an indigenous people of Northwest America – built a final physical barrier to block the advance of the invaders. This place, in fact, was the scene of the last bloody battles between the indigenous peoples of Canada and the Russian soldiers, before Russia colonized the land in 1804. The Russians first invaded Alaska in 1799 and the Tlingit clans successfully repulsed their colonization attempts. However, the indigenous people he had to give in to Russian attacks in the attack on October 1, 1804, forever abandoning the last fort – nicknamed Shiskinou (meaning “village fortress”). Historical descriptions of the location of the fort were based on the features of the nearby landscape, offering only a general suggestion where the fort was located. However, the exact location has always remained uncertain. All this until new research found the fort’s unusual perimeter shape in Sitka National Historical Park, at the mouth of Kasda Heen (Indian River).

TLINGIT RAVEN RATTLE

Shark, Raven, Bird, Human. What does it mean to find these life forms intermingled within a singular piece, in the shape of a rattle? In Tlingit society, the interactions among these beings and the mythologies associated with them represent cultural interpretations of individual and clan relationships. Specific aspects of these relations and beliefs led to the amalgamation of stylized versions of marine animals, birds, and other enigmatic figures in this hand-held rattle carved from wood. This “Dance Rattle”—aptly described as the “Shark on Raven” rattle—was an object purchased by art collector and ethnologist Louis Shotridge (Tlingit) during the 1927 Wanamaker Expedition to acquire Northwest Coast Native objects. During the late 1800s to early 1900s, the Canadian and American governments began pressuring Native people to set aside their cultural objects and adopt aspects of Western culture. Shotridge observed that many Tlingit objects were leaving their communities of origin, and landing in museums. The Free Museum of Science and Art (forerunner to the Penn Museum) had only a small collection of Northwest Coast Native objects, but Shotridge was determined to improve the representation of Tlingit culture at Penn. He persuaded Museum Director George Byron Gordon to fund travel expenses to Southeastern Alaska to collect objects for the Museum. According to Associate Curator Lucy Fowler Williams, these were the first University Museum expeditions led by a Native person, and Shotridge “found the Museum to be a safe haven for Native materials.”

Tlingit ‘Raven’ story

ONE DAY, MY SON asked me, “How do we know if history is true?” He was 9 years old at the time, and his question shocked me. I explained to him that there are those who remember what happened, there is the evidence of what happened, and there are those who write it down. I told him that if enough of the stories match, then we all agree — that is what happened. I reminded him that this is how it “easily” works when the written word is the documentation for history, and that when it comes to Native history, we have to get the story right every time we tell it. High-level discussion with a 9-year-old. But his question has immediate relevance to this exhibition. There are countless Raven stories in the Tlingit community, and there are many versions of how Raven came to bring the light to the world. The stories are not necessarily contradictory, but they do emphasize different points and have different details, depending on whom the caretaker of that story was and how he or she was taught to tell the story. During the four years that glass artist Preston Singletary and I have been working on an exhibition with Tacoma’s Museum of Glass, he and I have continuously wrestled with questions at the intersection of oral history, the defining nature of art and the universal elements contained within this particular Raven story.

Culture of the Tlingit

The culture of the Tlingit, an Indigenous people from Alaska, British Columbia, and the Yukon, is multifaceted, a characteristic of Northwest Coast peoples with access to easily exploited rich resources. In Tlingit culture a heavy emphasis is placed upon family and kinship, and on a rich tradition of oratory. Wealth and economic power are important indicators of status, but so is generosity and proper behavior, all signs of “good breeding” and ties to aristocracy. Art and spirituality are incorporated in nearly all areas of Tlingit culture, with even everyday objects such as spoons and storage boxes decorated and imbued with spiritual power and historical associations.

Kushtaka

According to the folklore of the Tlingit people in what is now the northwestern USA, sailors who disappear at sea are said to be tricked and killed by the Kushtaka. These malicious creatures can switch between the form of a man and the shape of an otter. They can imitate the sound of a crying baby to lure innocent people and then tear them apart. However, the species is not inherently evil and there are many tales of Kushtaka saving people from a frozen death. Some stories tell of Kushtaka finding travelers who are freezing to death, and who are beyond help. Knowing that they cannot warm the human in time to save him, they turn him or her into a fellow Kushtaka, which allows the person in question to survive the horrible cold. This is a mixed boon: while the newly transformed Kushtaka is saved from death, they can no longer live among the humans.

Tlingit Myths

“No one knows just how the story of Raven really begins,” says Dekinā’k of the Box House people in Sitka, Alaska, “so each starts from the point where he does know it.” Could there be a more perfect way of introducing a creation myth than this? The importance of Raven to the stories of the Tlingit — who settled in southeastern Alaska around 10,000 years ago — would be hard to overestimate. Raven is a culture hero and trickster (like Prometheus), a shape-shifter (like Proteus), but he is also the creator of the earth. Back when there was no light in the world because a rich old man on the Nass River kept it all to himself, Raven “thought over all kinds of plans for getting this light into the world and finally he hit on a good one.” The rich old man who kept all the light to himself had a daughter, whom Raven impregnated by transforming himself into a small piece of dirt in a drop of water, which she swallowed.

The Tlingits didn’t wear long headdresses. Instead, both men and women sometimes wore basketry hats made of finely woven spruce root. The designs and patterns of these hats often displayed a person’s status and family connections. The Tlingits painted their faces with different colors and designs for different occasions, and often wore Indian tribal tattoos. Tlingit women often wore their hair in two long braids, while men usually left theirs long and loose. Like other Northwestern Indians, Tlingit men often wore mustaches and beards.

TLINGIT INDIAN FOLKLORE

Tlingit Myths and Texts: Online book about the mythology of the Tlingit tribe.

Tlingit Creation Story:

Raven: Tlingit myths about the life and deeds of Raven.

How Mosquitos Came To Be: Tlingit folktale about the origin of mosquitoes.

Tlingit Transformation Tales: Tlingit legends of Salmon Boy and the Bear Mother.

Katlian and the Iron People: Early 19th-century legend of a brave Tlingit chief’s encounters with the Russians.

Inviting The Bears: Tlingit legend about a man who threw a feast for the bear people.

The Star Shooter

The Arrow Chain: Tlingit stories about a boy who rescued his friend from the moon.

Raven and the Tides: Tlingit myth about the origin of the tides.

The Woman Who Married A Frog: Tlingit legend about a woman turned into a frog for her vanity.

Natsilane: Tlingit legend about the origin of the killer whale.

Beaver and Porcupine: Tlingit legend about a friendly rivalry between two animals.

Native Alaskan Stories: Eight Ahtna, Tlingit, and Eskimo legends presented by a Native Alaskan educational organization.

RAVEN TALES

Raven Tales are unique to Tlingit culture. Although the tales are associated with the Raven moiety, most are shared by any Tlingit regardless of clan affiliation and make up of the stories told to children. Raven Cycle stories are often shared anecdotally, the telling of one inspiring the telling of another. Many are humorous; some are serious, imparting Tlingit morality and ethics, and others belong to specific clans and may only be shared with permission. Some of the most popular are Pacific Northwest tribal creation myths. The Raven Cycle stories have 1 Raven characters, although most storytellers do not clearly distinguish them. One character is the creator, Raven, who is sometimes identical to the Owner of Daylight. The other is the childish Raven: selfish, sly, conniving, and hungry. Comparing several stories reveals logical inconsistencies between the two, which is usually explained by their setting in a mythical place and time in which the rules of the modern world did not apply.

Tlingit Myths

Images

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There is beauty in simplicity and the traditional soft-hackle wet fly is quite simply, beautiful. In its bareness, in the liveliness of its soft hackle fibers it suggests all that seems necessary to tempt fish. Because of its simplicity it’s also one of the easiest flies to tie—and often one of the deadliest.

Also called a Hackle Fly, North Country Fly, Stewart Spider, or Yorkshire Spider, these flies were first mentioned in Dame Juliana Berners’ 1496 Treatise of Fishing with an Angle. Likely their history extends even farther back than that. But it wasn’t until Sylvester Nemes’ 1975 The Soft-Hackled Fly that they began to receive the attention they deserve in the United States, and became known in general as “soft-hackle” flies. (Incidentally, The Soft Hackled Fly was updated in 2006 as The Soft-Hackled Fly and Tiny Soft Hackles; I highly recommend both the original book and the update for their history, fly patterns, and ideas.)

The most basic version of the soft-hackle fly consists of a hook shank wrapped with thread, floss, or peacock herl and a hackle (partridge, grouse, hen or some other soft-hackled bird) wound around the forward part of the shank. Here the hackle suggests the legs or emergent wings of various insects such as caddis or mayflies. Slightly more elaborate versions include a small thorax of dubbed fur just behind the hackle. Others —often more specifically imitative of a mayfly nymph—will sport a tail and perhaps a body of dubbed fur, in which case the fly is often referred to as a soft-hackle nymph or “flymph,” a type popularized by Leisenring and Hidy. However you tie it, the soft hackle wet fly deserves an honored place in your fly box.

I first began tying these flies as a teenager in the 1950s after reading an article by Ray Bergman in Outdoor Life magazine titled Basic Wet Flies for Trout Fishing. They weren’t called “soft-hackle wet flies” back then, just “hackle flies.” Among my favorites were the Gray Hackle and Peacock and the Orange Fish Hawk, both tied with soft grizzly hen hackle on a #12 or #14 hook. Both were well-suited to the small skills of a beginning tyer and fly fisherman. Another favorite—one not found in Bergman—was one I called a Gray Pigeon (or sometimes a Flipper Fly). This pattern was hackled with a soft iridescent gray-blue feather taken from the neck area of a common pigeon with a body of soft gray fur clipped from the stomach of my old cat Flipper (who also supplied me with the pigeon).

I caught a lot of trout on these patterns but somewhere along the way, as my fly-tying skills became more developed and my flyfishing more sophisticated, I became interested in flies that more exactly imitated the insects in the streams I fished, flies that demanded more skill in both tying and fishing. I began to fill my fly boxes with more complicated patterns, relegating simpler flies to boxes that I rarely looked into. Eventually they became forgotten flies, rusting away and eaten by moths

Then in the mid-70s my interests began to shift back to simpler, more impressionistic patterns; flies that suggested insects or baitfish in general, flies tied with soft fibers that would move in the current like a living insect or baitfish. It was at this time that I tied the first Sparrow and other flies utilizing the soft aftershaft feathers found on a pheasant; also the Soft Hackle Streamer which (when you look at it closely) is simply a traditional soft hackle wet fly tied with a much longer marabou hackle thus allowing it to suggest a baitfish. About this time that I became friends with Sylvester Nemes, whose book rekindled my interest in the traditional soft-hackle wet fly. Since then I always carry a selection of traditional (and some not-so-traditional) soft-hackle wet flies with me wherever I fish.

Following the tying instructions given below I’ve listed some of my favorite soft-hackle patterns. While most of them are tied with partridge feathers, you can tie a whole range of soft-hackle wet flies using grouse, pheasant, woodcock, snipe, starling, grackle, sparrow, common hen in various colors, and, yes, even pigeon. For exceptionally soft-hackled flies, especially in the smaller sizes (#16-20), you might also want to tie some using the aftershaft feathers attached to the main body feathers of most of these birds; these mostly dun-colored feathers are the softest of the soft hackles and should not be overlooked by the tyer. They are very effective, especially in slower-moving or still water, where they are most productive. The ultra-soft and heavily-barbuled feathers found around the anus of most roosters and hens are also quite useful, especially grizzly; I refer to this feather often as a CPF (chicken-poop) feather throughout my web site.

Hook Selection

The soft-hackle wet fly is usually tied on wet fly hooks (any shape, model, and size you like) because it is usually most effective fished just under the surface. You may, however, tie it on lighter-wire dry-fly hooks to fish it in the surface film, perhaps as a drowned nymph that didn’t quite make it. A general rule for determining which hook to use is this: If you want the fly to imitate a caddis, tie it on a regular or short-shank hook without a tail; if you want it to imitate a mayfly, tie it on a regular or long-shank hook and add a tail.

While it’s most often used for trout, soft-hackle wet fly is also a fine steelhead and salmon fly, especially in heavily-fished waters or when the water is low. For a deeper, faster-sinking fly, use a 2x heavy wire hook or weight the fly with a copper wire or lead-wrapped body. Some anglers even tie it with a bead-head. Its effectiveness is not limited to fresh water either — it’s a productive bonefish fly, especially in smaller sizes (#8-#10).

Fishing the Soft-Hackle Wet Fly

Probably the most common way to fish a soft-hackle wet fly is to cast it across and slightly downstream, letting it sink and then swing in the current, rising with the tightening line much as a natural rises to the surface before hatching. It’s on this rise that fish usually strike. Another productive method is to cast the fly upstream on a short cast and then let it dead-drift back to you just under the surface (or, if tied on a light-wire hook, in the surface film). On lakes and ponds a soft hackle fly cast in front of a cruising trout and then twitched slightly can be absolutely deadly. Many soft-hackle fly anglers, especially in Europe, favor fishing two or three of these flies (of different colors and sizes) at a time.

And now it’s time to tie.

Tying the The Partridge & Olive

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, sizes 10-18

Thread:

6/0 Olive or size A flat nylon

Body:

Olive thread or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Soft Hackle Wets

Here are some of my favorite soft-hackle wet flies that you might want to tie up and try next time you’re on the stream. All are tied in the manner described above.

The Partridge & Chartreuse

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 fluorescent chartreuse or size A flat nylon

Body:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Orange

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 orange or size A flat nylon

Body:

Orange thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Orange thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Yellow

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 yellow or size A flat nylon

Body:

Yellow thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Yellow thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Pheasant & Black

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Body:

Black thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Black fur dubbing

Hackle:

Iridescent black ringneck pheasant feather taken from head or lower neck of pheasant

Head:

Black fur dubbing or thread

Brown Hackle, Peacock

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Peacock herl

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Brown mottled hen or grouse

Head:

Black

Aftershaft Soft Hackle Wet Fly

Hook:

Daiichi 1140, 1150, 1550,1640 Tiemco 2487, or any hook that you prefer, #14-20

Thread:

6/0, olive, orange, yellow, black, rust

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Aftershaft feather from partridge, pheasant (hen or cock), grouse

Head:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Soft Hackle Nymphs

These flies differ from the above soft-hackle wet flies in that they’re most often tied on a 1xl or 2xl hook, with a tail and with a body and thorax of fur, to imitate an emerging mayfly nymph. To imitate a caddis, simply tie the same fly on a regular or a shorter-shanked hook and omit the tail. These patterns may be varied, of course, to match more closely the sizes and colors of insects found on your local waters.

Partridge & Hare’s Ear

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 olive

Body:

Olive thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Olive thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

Partridge & Muskrat

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 gray

Tail:

Partridge

Body:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Gray thread or blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Partridge & Red Squirrel (Hendrickson Nymph)

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers or wood duck

Body:

Red squirrel fur (from the back of the squirrel, to include predominantly rust-red hairs)

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed red squirrel fur

Soft Hackle March Brown Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12, 14

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers

Body:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Soft Hackle Pheasant Tail Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers (three or four)

Body:

Pheasant tail fibers wound over hook shank

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

Originally published in 2007

On a plaque outside David L. Hayes’ Leitchfield, Ky., home are the words “One old fisherman lives here with the catch of his life.” Whether the sign refers to Ruth, his wife of 64 years, or the gigantic smallmouth bass that hangs on his living room wall is anyone’s guess. It’s a question Hayes wryly refuses to answer.

Unfortunately for the 80-year-old angler, it’s not the only question surrounding his trophy catch from Dale Hollow Lake on the Tennessee-Kentucky border 50 years ago. Controversy swirls around this fish that stood as the world record for more than 40 years and now splits the record keeping authorities squarely down the middle.

The International Game Fish Association, generally recognized as the authority on freshwater fishing records since taking over from Field & Stream in 1978, disqualified Hayes’ catch in 1996. The National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame did likewise the same year. In 1999, however, the Hall of Fame reinstated Hayes’ catch. The IGFA has not budged.

Even the states involved in this tangled tale are on different pages. Kentucky disqualified the catch in the midst of the IGFA and Hall of Fame turmoil. Hayes still sits atop the Tennessee record book.

It’s a controversy that confounds smallmouth fans and frustrates the small community of Celina, Tenn., where a remarkable series of events took place more than half a century ago.

The catch

The date was July 9, 1955, and David Hayes, his wife and their six-year-old son were spending the day on Dale Hollow Lake trolling a 600 series pearl Bomber for smallmouth and walleye. They’d been coming to “the Hollow” for about three years, and Hayes had gotten very good at summertime trolling — so good that he was occasionally followed by local guides and other anglers hoping to learn his secrets.

On July 9, however, things were slow. Hayes’ favorite trolling runs were coming up empty … at least until he swung into a favorite cut between Illwill Creek and Phillips Bottom, just north of Trooper Island and in Kentucky waters.

“There were a couple of weed beds through there, and if you lined it up just right you could bring your plug right between them and keep it bumping the bottom.”

Hayes had about 300 feet of line out when the big fish hit. At first he thought he was snagged. Then he felt the surge of a powerful fish.

It took several minutes with his Tru-Temper steel rod, Penn Peer 209 reel and 20-pound-test line to bring the bass boatside, but Hayes eventually put a net under the leviathan. “It was between 10:00 and 10:30 a.m.,” he said.

“I had no idea it was a world record.”

The controversy

The fastest, easiest way to be called a liar is to catch a giant fish. Make it a world record, and the detractors will beat a path to your door.

After Hayes swung his giant smallmouth aboard his 21-foot cruiser, he stowed the fish in a metal cooler he kept on the deck of the boat and went right back to fishing. The Hayes family liked to eat fish, and the day was still young.

Sometime around noon, Hayes was getting low on gas and decided to head to the nearest marina — Wisdom Dock, up Illwill Creek. When he got there, he was met by Granville “Lightnin’ ” Madison, a dockhand who filled Hayes’ gas tank. When Madison asked if Hayes was having any luck, the angler was characteristically modest.

“I’ve got one pretty good smallmouth,” Hayes said.

Madison asked if he could weigh it, and Hayes agreed. Unbeknownst to the angler, Kentucky Water Police Officer Oral Burtram was inside the marina and saw the fish on the scales. The smallmouth lacked an ounce of weighing 12 pounds.

From Wisdom Dock, Hayes headed down the lake to Cedar Hill Resort, where he maintained a slip for his boat. It was there that the story took an unfortunate turn.

Once again the fish was placed on the scales — this time they were certified — and once again the bass weighed 11 pounds, 15 ounces. People who were there and saw the fish still marvel at its size.

Hayes’ mistake was in letting the fish out of his sight. He let dockhands at Cedar Hill weigh it. Had he kept it under his control the entire time, he would likely have never lost his place in the record books.

More than a month later, on August 17, Raymond “Doughbelly” Barlow presented an affidavit to the Corp of Engineers office at Dale Hollow Lake. The document, sworn to by Doughbelly’s nephew, John H. Barlow, claimed that Hayes’ bass had been tampered with — that it really weighed only 8 pounds, 15 ounces and that Cedar Hill Resort owner Dick Roberts and John’s own brother Ira had asked John (a one-time guide at Cedar Hill) to “fix it up good.”

John claimed he shoved 3 pounds of motor parts and sinkers into the bass’ gullet then pinned the fish’s throat shut with a treble hook. After the alleged dirty work was done, the bass weighed 11-15 — the same as it had weighed at Wisdom Dock.

Because the Corps isn’t involved in keeping fishing records, the affidavit was returned to Doughbelly and a copy kept in the Corps office. It would be more than 40 years before anyone looked at it again.

A record is undone

Hayes was firmly entrenched in the record books by the mid-1990s when a Livingston, Tenn., assistant principal invited him to display the fish at an outdoors show. Eldon Davis and a few others decided that Hayes’ bass didn’t look like it weighed nearly 12 pounds and began their own investigation.

Davis found the John Barlow affidavit and then found Barlow himself. Using a private polygrapher and a set of questions devised by Davis, John passed a lie detector test. He was never given a subsequent test by state officials.

Within a few months, Hayes’ bass was stricken from the record books despite the fact that no one from IGFA bothered to get his version of events. Hayes learned of the disqualification when Bassmaster senior writer Colin Moore called to interview him in 1996.

Tennessee’s due diligence

Whether or not David Hayes holds the world record for smallmouth bass, the record came from Dale Hollow Lake. Both the second (John Gorman’s 10-14 in 1969) and third (Paul Beal’s 10-8 in 1986) biggest bronzebacks were caught there.

So when Ron Fox, assistant director of the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, investigated the catch and controversy in the summer of 1996, it was with an eye to discovering the truth, not to defend a state icon.

“I thought the research would be brief and confirm that the fish was a hoax, but the more I looked into it, the more the bits and pieces added up to help us reach our decision to maintain the catch as a record.”

Fox talked to all the living witnesses to the catch and weighing. He heard from Bobby Stone, the night clerk at Cedar Hill who slept each night on the freezer containing the fish until it was sent to a taxidermist. Stone also examined the fish on the day it was caught, had his photo taken with the fish numerous times after the weighing and stated unequivocally that the fish’s gullet was not pinned shut with a treble hook or otherwise compromised.

Fox talked with Lightnin’ Madison who saw the fish at Wisdom Dock and confirmed its weight at 11-15. He even spoke with John Barlow’s brother, Ira, a Cedar Hill clerk and guide who was at the dock when Hayes came in and whom John implicated in the alleged tampering.

Ira told Fox that John was nowhere near Cedar Hill that day and that John fabricated the story in order to get revenge on Dick Roberts, who had fired him from his guiding position. Ira even passed a polygraph test by a licensed examiner.

“I feel very comfortable that Mr. Hayes caught the world record smallmouth and deserves the recognition for it,” Fox said. In March of 1997, TWRA decided to keep the Hayes fish as the state record.

A formula for the truth

Whether you contend that Hayes’ smallmouth weighed a legitimate 11 pounds, 15 ounces or whether you believe John Barlow and others boosted its weight, there’s no question that the fish was 27 inches long and had a girth of 21 2/3 inches.

A highly regarded formula for estimating bass weight is length x length x length ÷ 1,600. Plug the known numbers into the formula and Hayes’ bass comes out to 12.3 pounds (12 pounds, 5 ounces).

The other most commonly used formula for estimating bass weight based upon measurements is length x length x girth ÷ 1,200. Under this equation, the Hayes smallmouth weighs 13.16 pounds (13-3).

If the bass’ girth measurement is reduced by three inches — more than enough to compensate for any foul play, the formula would still indicate a weight of 11.34 pounds (11-5).

The Hayes bass was simply too large to weigh just 8-15, as John Barlow claimed.

The affidavit

Why would Dick Roberts ask John Barlow to boost the weight of Hayes’ bass? The obvious answer, of course, would be to gain notoriety from having a world record smallmouth weighed at Cedar Hill Resort.

Forget for a moment that Dick Roberts was a pillar of the community, that he taught Sunday school at Celina United Methodist Church for more than 40 years and that he had the respect of virtually everyone around the lake. Ignore the fact that it would be completely out of his character to do something so unethical.

Instead, ask why anyone would need the help of John Barlow for such a deed. After all, even according to Barlow’s own sworn statement, “Mr. Roberts and Ira Barlow came to me, and Mr. Roberts asked me to lead the fish — told me to fix it up good — and handed me a number of lead sinkers. Ira Barlow also had some lead sinkers in his hand.”

Why did they need John Barlow if Roberts and Ira Barlow were standing right there with the sinkers? Why bring someone else in on the fraud? It makes no sense.

The usual suspects

Three men came together to create the affidavit sworn to by John H. Barlow, and all of them had motives to lie and discredit Cedar Hill Resort. In addition to John, there was Doughbelly Barlow and James H. Reneau Jr.

Doughbelly was a well-known character around Dale Hollow Lake in the 1950s. The corpulent fishing guide worked out of Dale Hollow Marina and was a sometime deputy sheriff known for ruthless behavior. He was also John’s uncle.

Doughbelly was renowned for being jealous of other anglers who were catching bass when he was struggling. It would have bothered him to see a world record come into a competing marina. That it was caught by a weekend angler added insult to injury.

Jimmy Reneau was the attorney who prepared the affidavit. He also was the owner of Holly Creek Resort, just up the lake from Cedar Hill. Whatever business Dick Roberts gained by having a record smallmouth come to Cedar Hill, Reneau may have felt he was losing at Holly Creek.

Even the county court clerk who notarized the affidavit may have had something to gain from the conspiracy. Mary Ruth “Oopie” Reneau was Jimmy’s sister.

Can I get a witness?

By the time John Barlow’s affidavit came to light in the mid-1990s, most of the principals in the matter were dead. Raymond Barlow died in 1975; Jimmy Reneau committed suicide in 1981; Oopie died in 1984; and Dick Roberts passed away in 1993.

Of the six men John Barlow implicated in the conspiracy — himself, Dick Roberts, Dick’s eldest son Dickie, Ira Barlow, Walter Blakely and David Hayes — only the Barlows, Dickie Roberts and Hayes were alive in 1995 when the statement resurfaced.

And only John Barlow recollected anything at all about tampering with the big smallmouth. Hayes denies it emphatically. Dickie Roberts was astounded by the charges and refuted any involvement on the part of himself or his father.

And when Ira Barlow was on his deathbed in 1998, he told his son, Tim, that the fish was legitimate and that John had fabricated the entire tale. Tim calls his Uncle John a “career liar” and says that setting the record straight was something his father wanted to do, right to the very end of his life.

Absolutely no one backs up John Barlow’s story of fish tampering. Even the witnesses he lists in his infamous affidavit refute him.

Where are we now?

The witnesses to the record smallmouth controversy are, quite naturally, disappearing. David Hayes is nearly the only one left.

Though Tennessee and the Hall of Fame have placed Hayes in his proper position in the record book, Kentucky and the IGFA have not, choosing instead to ignore the considerable evidence in his favor.

Whether or not his home state and the IGFA do the right thing and reinstate his catch will have little effect on Hayes’ life. He enjoys his retirement, his family and his friends. Unless someone asks about the big fish, Hayes seldom talks about it.

But to have one of the greatest accomplishments in sportfishing history discredited in the face of so much evidence to the contrary is an indignity that no one should suffer.

As Ron Fox puts it, “Mr. Hayes is a fine individual and should not end this life with his accomplishment being lost from the record books.”

Growing up a 22 LR Rifle was my best friend and my love for firearms directly came from the 22LR round. If you are considering buying a 22 rifle, you probably want to know what the Best 22LR rifle for you is.

First, everyone is different, and it’s extremely important to know that. So one size definitely does not fit all. But I will do my best to cover a full spectrum of 22 LR rifles so you can find one that suits you or the person you are shopping for best.

7 Best 22LR Rifles

Here is our list of the 8 of the Best 22LR rifles of 2024!

Ruger 10/22

The Ruger 10/22 is a great 22LR rifle because of its superbly reliable action, outstanding durability, and extensive range of models available.

Its action can eat through the cheapest of ammo types with little issue, making it the perfect choice for hunters, survivalists and plinkers alike.

The Ruger 10/22 takes its place as the best overall because it can be used for essentially every purpose under the sun – from hunting to plinking to target shooting – while offering an affordable option for any shooter looking for a reliable semi-automatic 22LR rifle.

Additionally, it offers an array of ergonomic enhancements that improve accuracy and overall function.

The Ruger 10/22 is also the 22 rifle with the most available accessories on the market.

Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22

The Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 is a great 22LR rifle for shooters who want an AR-style platform to practice their skills.

It offers the same features and similar functionality as an AR, making it perfect for training with a direct translation to your main AR.

The M&P 15-22 has an M-Lok handguard that allows you to attach any standard AR accessories, plus it has a threaded barrel for adding on a suppressor or flash hider.

Furthermore, the lightweight polymer receivers make this rifle easy to carry around without sacrificing durability or accuracy.

Additionally, its appearance stands out from other 22lr rifles due to its AR styling, which makes it appealing to those who like tactical designs.

Savage Mark II FV SR

The Savage Mark II FV SR is an excellent choice for a 22lr rifle due to its features and performance.

It comes with a 16.5-inch heavy-profile fluted barrel which provides accurate shots round after round.

The threaded muzzle is a nice feature that allows for suppressor mounting. The detachable box magazine holds five rounds of .22 Long Rifle ammunition.

Additionally, the rifle has an adjustable Savage AccuTrigger that allows shooters to fine-tune their trigger pull for a crisp and clean break.

Overall, this rifle offers great value for its price point while providing all of the features needed for effective small-game hunting or target shooting purposes.

Henry Golden Boy

The Henry Golden Boy is a great 22lr rifle due to its reliability, aesthetics, and affordability. It is built with high-quality components that ensure smooth operation and longevity.

The Henry Repeating Arms Golden Boy also features a classic lever action design that adds a touch of nostalgia to your shooting experience.

It comes in several different configurations, including a complete walnut stock or one trimmed with gold for added elegance.

The Henry Golden Boy is very affordable compared to other lever action rifles on the market, making it an attractive option for those looking for value without sacrificing quality or aesthetics.

Browning BL-22

The Browning BL-22 is a great 22LR rifle due to its high-quality design and features. It’s one of the best lever action rifles on the market even though it’s 22LR.

It is built as a tribute to John Browning’s gun-making mind and features scroll engraving on the receiver, a polished blued finish, and a takedown design for ease of cleaning and storage.

The SA-22 also has an ambidextrous bottom ejection port which was ahead of its time.

The 19-inch barrel has a 1:16 rate of twist for accuracy when shooting small game or varmints.

Furthermore, the 10-round magazine loads through a port in the stock, which gives it a slim design that is easy to handle overall – making it an excellent choice for those looking for an attractive yet reliable rifle at an affordable price point.

Ruger Charger

The Ruger 10/22 Charger is a compact and lightweight pistol version of the popular 10/22 rifle. It also inspired the 9mm version the Ruger PC Charger.

It measures just under 20 inches long and features a folding pistol brace for easy storage and transport.

The Charger also comes with an open front sight and grooves in the receiver for mounting a scope, making it ideal for plinking or target shooting.

It offers great value for money with its affordable price tag of just under $300. The Ruger 10/22 sets the standard for what a 22LR rifle should be with its reliable performance, durable construction, ergonomic design, and high-quality components that ensure accuracy and reliability over time.

Tikka T1x MTR

The Tikka T1x MTR is a great 22lr rifle due to its high-quality construction, accuracy, and versatility.

It is built using many of the same features as Tikka’s popular T3x centerfire rifles, which ensures that it has high-performance bedding footing, a single-stage trigger mechanism and a synthetic stock that can withstand temperature variations.

The semi-heavy barrel keeps everything cooler and steadier than a thin barrel while also contributing to increased accuracy.

The modular design of the rifle allows users to swap out components depending on their needs or preferences.

Overall, the Tikka T1x MTR offers outstanding quality at an affordable price point with plenty of options for any shooter looking for accuracy in their rimfire rifle.

What are the benefits of owning a 22LR rifle?

They are cheap to buy and shoot

22LR rifles are relatively inexpensive compared to other types of firearms, with prices ranging from $100 to $500.

Furthermore, .22LR ammunition is also relatively cheap compared to other calibers, such as 9mm or 5.56mm.

This makes 22LR rifles an attractive choice for shooters who want a quality firearm without breaking the bank.

Not only are they cheaper than most other types of guns on the market, but they also tend to have less recoil which helps people train and avoid flinching before shooting.

The low cost of ammunition means you can put a lot more rounds down range for your dollar than with other calibers.

They are accurate

22LR rifles are accurate but only effective to roughly 150 yards, with some gun models capable of achieving sub-inch groupings at 100 yards.

This level of accuracy is comparable to more expensive rifles such as those chambered in .308 or .30-06 but 22LR is not effective at the ranges those rounds are.

The key factor that contributes to the accuracy of a 22LR rifle is its barrel length. Longer barrels typically produce higher levels of accuracy than shorter ones due to their increased dwell time and the twist rate of the barrel.

Other features that can influence accuracy include the fit and finish of the rifle, as well as its stock design which can help reduce recoil and improve stability during shooting sessions.

They are suitable for shooting small game and pests

The 22LR rifle is capable of shooting a variety of small game and pests.

It is especially effective at taking small game such as squirrels, rabbits, ground birds and other similar animals.

It can also be used for pest removal tasks such as snake defense or eliminating other nuisance animals.

The 22LR cartridge works well for these types of tasks due to its low recoil and noise level, which makes it ideal for close-quarter situations.

There are even “pest control” rounds, often called rat shot which doesn’t damage property but can kill mice and rats at close range indoors.

On several occasions, I have dispatched a mouse caught on a glue trap before discarding him to stop the mouse from suffering.

They are available in a wide range of styles and sizes

There are a variety of 22LR rifles available, including bolt action, semi-automatic, and lever action rifles. These rifles offer different features depending on the type, such as:

Bolt action rifles offer precision shooting capabilities with a smooth operation and easy loading of rounds.

Semi-automatic rifles are more modern versions of rifles that allow for faster firing rates.

Lever action rifles provide an old-school cowboy look and feel while still being modern enough to use modern ammunition like 22LR rounds.

They are easy to handle and shoot

An easy-to-handle and shoot 22LR rifle should have the following characteristics:

1. Superbly accurate – The rifle should be able to accurately hit targets at various distances.
2. Lightweight – The rifle should be lightweight so that it is easy to carry around and handle during shooting sessions.
3. Excellent trigger – The trigger should be smooth and responsive, allowing for precise shots every time. Typically a low-poundage trigger pull is desired.
4. Comb height – The comb height should be adjustable so that shooters of all heights can comfortably use the rifle without strain or discomfort in their neck or shoulders while aiming down the sights or scope.
5. Fun to shoot – Shooting with any type of 22LR rifle should be enjoyable due to its accuracy, lightweight design, and fun features like a bipod or scope with adjustable magnification level if applicable in this particular model you’re considering purchasing (just make sure it’s legal where you live!).

They are quiet

22LR rifles benefit from being quiet because they use less powder and are typically shot from longer barrels.

By using a 22LR rifle that is quiet, hunters can reduce the risk of spooking their prey and increase their chances of success.

A quiet rifle is also beneficial for those who wish to practice shooting without disturbing their neighbors or damaging their hearing. However, you should always wearing hearing protection while shooting.

They are good for target shooting practice

Yes, 22LR rifles are great for target shooting practice.

The lack of recoil and relatively inexpensive ammunition makes the .22 LR cartridge ideal for beginners who want to learn how to shoot properly.

The lack of recoil also helps experienced shooters train to avoid flinching before pulling the trigger.

With the low cost of ammo that means that you can put more rounds down range for your dollar than with other calibers.

They are fun to shoot

Yes, 22LR rifles are fun to shoot. They are accurate, reliable, and offer a great range of uses.

They can be used for target practice, pest removal, or even for hunting rabbits in the fall.

Plus, they are relatively inexpensive compared to other types of ammunition and you don’t have to worry about them being scarce due to their popularity. Overall 22LR rifles provide an enjoyable shooting experience without financial burden.

What to consider when buying a 22LR rifle?

There is plenty to consider when buying a 22LR rifle for yourself or a loved one. From the brand to action, to any number of things. Here is a comprehensive list of things to consider when buying your rifle.

Action type

You probably already know what kind of action you’d like but here are the three most popular.

Lever Action

These .22 LR rifles are cycled by hand, but instead of a handle at the back of the bolt, there is a lever by the trigger that must be actuated to load another round.

A lever action rifle uses a manually operated system that feeds cartridges into the chamber by means of pulling back on the lever, which operates an internal mechanism that moves ammunition into position before cocking it ready to fire again when pulled back again by hand.

They are often recreations of guns from the Old West and are popular with those who are interested in that time period.

Semi-Auto

Semi-Auto rifles are typically magazine feed and often have a higher magazine capacity of 10-25 rounds and beyond.

These guns fire and reload with a single trigger pull and release. This allows for much higher rates of fire.

Single Shot

Single shot rifles only have one shot capacity as indicated by their name; after firing one round, you will need to manually reload before firing again.

These types of 22LR rifles are typically used for hunting small game since they don’t offer much firepower compared to other types of action firearms, such as semi-automatic or bolt action models.

Bolt Action

A bolt action rifle uses a manual mechanism to eject the spent cartridge and chamber a new one. This type of rifle typically has a longer barrel for increased accuracy and a larger capacity than other types of 22LR rifles.

Bolt action rifles are similar to single shot in that you have to chamber a new round manually; unlike single-shot rifles, you have an easy way to do that with a lever on the bolt.

Bolt actions are a classic rifle and are used for better accuracy and precision. They typically have smaller magazine capacities and even sometimes have internal magazines inside of the gun.

Caliber

When choosing a 22LR rifle, it is important to consider the caliber of the rifle.

You are probably saying 22LR, Duh.

You’re right. However, be sure to make sure it’s a 22 Long Rifle; there are a few flavors of .22 caliber rounds.

22LR, 22 Long, and 22 Short are all popular 22 caliber rounds. The most popular is by far the 22 Long Rifle (.22LR). But some rifles can shoot only one or all three rounds.

One thing is certain the 22 Longs and 22 Shorts in 22LR magazines are a recipe for disaster if they are not compatible.

There are four different types of 22 caliber rounds available: 22 Long Rifle (LR), 22 Long (L), 22 Short (S), and 22 Magnum (M).

22 LR: This is the most common type of rimfire cartridge and is compatible with most rifles and magazines.

It can be chambered safely in both tube-fed and detachable magazines.

It offers high accuracy, low recoil, and high velocity for long-range shooting. The standard muzzle energy is around 35 to 40-foot pounds which makes it suitable for small game hunting or target practice at short ranges.

22 Long: This round is not compatible with most 22LR rifles as it does not fit in most detachable magazines.

However, it can be fired safely in some rifles that are designed for both types of cartridges.

The muzzle energy for this round tends to be higher than the LR version at around 45 to 50 foot pounds which makes it more suitable for larger game such as varmint or small deer species up to 100 yards away from the shooter’s position.

22 Short: Like its longer counterpart, this cartridge also has limited compatibility with certain rifles that can handle both types of cartridges without any issues. The short is shorter than both the 22LR and 22 Long

Barrel length

When buying a 22LR rifle, it is important to consider the barrel length.

Longer barrels offer better accuracy and muzzle velocity, which can make a significant difference in terms of accuracy.

Additionally, longer barrels are more suitable for hunting as they can provide more power and range than shorter barrels.

Note that shorter barrels are typically lighter and easier to maneuver around obstacles in the field or at the range.

While there may be some tradeoffs with shorter barrels such as reduced accuracy or decreased muzzle velocity compared to longer ones, they still provide excellent performance in most situations and are an ideal choice for many shooters looking for a compact, fun rifle.

Trigger

The trigger pull for a 22LR rifle is typically smooth and reliable. The Ruger 10/22 features a tapered cold hammer-forged barrel that uses the two screw V lock system for a tight fit to the receiver.

Trigger pull and weight varies from rifle to rifle so finding one that is your preferred weight is important. You can also purchase rifles with adjustable trigger weights.

When buying a 22LR rifle, it is important to consider the features of the trigger group. Many modern rifles come with a push-to-fire safety that helps train younger shooters in proper rifle safety habits and can be found on both large and small caliber rifles.

On the other hand, some older 22LR rifles do not have a push-to-fire safety or any type of safety mechanism at all so it is important to know what type of trigger you are getting before making a purchase decision.

Safety features

When buying a 22LR rifle, safety features to consider include the following:

• Bolt action – A bolt action rifle uses a manual mechanism to load and unload ammunition. It has a handle or lever that you pull back to open the chamber, then push forward to close it again. These typically have a push button safety
• Semi-automatic – Typically, all have a push-button safety and can usually be found near the trigger or trigger guard.
• Lever-Action – Traditional lever-action rifles do not have a push button safety. However, some .22LR rifles like the Rossi Rio Bravo have push button safeties.

Stock options

A variety of stock options are available for 22LR rifles, including:

Synthetic

Synthetic stocks are one of the most popular modern-day options for .22LR stocks. The Synthetic stock is available on nearly any rifle configuration offered today.

The synthetic stock is typically a plastic or resin that makes the gun light and extremely durable to wear and tear and the elements.

Wooden

Wood stocks are the classic look you remember from your favorite western movie. These stocks are often coated to resist wear and tear and moisture.

Many lever-action rifles and bolt-action rifles have wooden stock options.

Chassis

Drop-in chassis are extremely popular for precision shooters as they allow the barrel to free float, which improves accuracy. There are many different brands and options depending on which gun you purchase.

Some chassis even make the guns look more “tactical” or transform your rifle to look like an entirely different gun.

Scope mounting options

For 22LR rifles, scope mounting options include: Picatinny rail, dovetail mount, Weaver rail mount, ring mount and integral scope mounts.

Picatinny rails are typically found on newer models of 22LR rifles and provide an easy way to attach optics.

Dovetail mounts are more common on older models of 22LR rifles and can sometimes require the services of a gunsmith to install.

Weaver rails offer another option for attaching optics but may require drilling into the firearm’s receiver if it doesn’t already have a rail installed.

Ring mounts can be used with both Picatinny and Weaver rails or directly onto the barrel without any additional hardware required.

Integral scope mounts are built into some older models of 22LR rifles but may not be compatible with modern optics due to changes in design over time.

For 22LR rifles, there are a variety of scope options available. These include:

• Magnification: Between 4 – 7X power
• Fixed 4X or low power variable magnification optic (LPVO).
• Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 – Best scope for 22LR Benchrest
• Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 – Best Red Dot Scope Under $100
• Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20 – Best Scope for 22LR Squirrel Hunting

Magazine capacity

The magazine capacity for a 22LR rifle is the maximum number of rounds the rifle can hold in its magazine.

Most detachable magazines range from 10-25 rounds. You can find aftermarket magazines that get higher round counts but loading them may be a challenge.

Bolt action rifles often have a 5-10 round internal magazine. If it does have a detachable magazine it is typically a small single stack style magazine, think 1911 single stack magazine scaled down.

Bolt design

When buying a bolt action 22LR rifle, considerations should be made for the bolt design.

Bolt Actions are manually cycled from a handle at the back of the bolt and typically feed from a magazine.

They are reliable weapons that work well and are great hosts for suppressors if that’s something that interests you.

The bolt design should focus on a smooth action and a throw knob that lives up to your standards in size and style.

Weight and Balance

It is important to consider the weight and balance of the rifle. Ruger’s Precision Rifle in .22 LR offers a good balance between weight and accuracy, with a 6.8 lb weight and 35.13″-38.6″ length.

The Ruger Precision Rifle in .22 LR has an AR-style pistol grip, fiberglass chassis, heavy barrel, massive bolt handle which makes it look like most tactical rifles you’d see at the range.

The Ruger Carbine 10/22 Rifle also offers good weight balance with its 5 lb weight and 33″-34″ length.

The Ruger 10/22 Carbine Rifle comes with a wood stock which gives it an aesthetic advantage over other models in its class but it does not have any additional features that would make it stand out from other rifles of its caliber or type (such as AR-15s).

Customization Options

Customization options for 22LR rifles include:

• Adjustable sights – Most .22LR rifles have adjustable sights to allow for precise aim and accuracy.
• Long-range scope – A long-range scope can be added to increase the range at which a rifle can be accurately fired.
• Trigger adjustment – Some models of .22LR rifles come with a built-in trigger adjustment feature that allows users to fine-tune their pull weight.
• Stock adjustment – Some models of 22LR rifles allow users to adjust the stock for better fit and comfort.
• Aftermarket Accessories – Some guns have far more aftermarket options than others. Typically the volume sellers like the Ruger 10/22 will have a ton of aftermarket accessory options.

Value for money

When evaluating the value for money of a 22LR rifle, it is important to consider the type of action and features that are offered and everything in the list above.

Depending on your needs, you can find rifles with different actions such as bolt action, lever action, semi-automatic and more. Additionally, some rifles offer features such as adjustable sights or rubberized grips for comfort and accuracy.

When comparing value for money between different 22LR rifles, it is important to consider the quality of the components used in each model.

High-quality components such as a steel barrel or synthetic stock will provide better performance over time than lower-quality parts like plastic stocks or aluminum barrels which may be less durable or accurate over time.

FAQ

What is the best 22LR rifle?

When it comes to the best .22 LR rifles, there are many options available. Some of the top models include:

• Ruger 10/22
• Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22
• H&K 416 22
• Browning BL-22

What are the advantages of a bolt action rifle compared to other types of rifles?

The main advantage of a bolt action rifle is its mechanical accuracy, which is the maximum potential accuracy of a firearm without any human inputs.

Bolt actions can be built to tighter tolerances than semi-autos, which increases accuracy and repeatability. Additionally, they are also great hosts for suppressors and are generally quieter than semi-auto-suppressed guns due to no moving action.

On the other hand, semi-automatic rifles such as 10/22s can be just as accurate in practice if they are fitted with custom parts or properly cared of by their owners. Ultimately it comes down to the shooter rather than the gun itself regarding practical accuracy in field conditions.

What type of ammunition is used in a 22LR rifle?

22LR rifles utilize rimfire ammunition, which is loaded with a primer and a bullet and the primer is in the rim of the cartridge, hence the name “rimfire.”

The rimfire system dates back to the 19th century and uses a small explosive charge located in the perimeter of the cartridge case around which the rest of the components are assembled.

22LR ammo can be prone to duds due to the primer being in the rim of the cartridge it can lead to poor performance in semi-auto rifles or other issues such as poor cartridge seating or decreased accuracy potentials.

Higher quality brands like CCI offer better performance at minimal recoil additions, while subsonic rounds keep projectiles below supersonic speeds for quieter shooting experiences coupled with suppressors.

Copper jacketed hollow point bullets provide for humane kills on small game hunts while providing reliable operation even in cheaper bulk offerings that often present more duds than centerfire cartridges do in similar situations.

What type of scope is best for 22LR rifles?

When choosing a scope for 22LR rifle scope, it is important to consider the shooting distance and the appropriate magnification.

A good scope will have the right magnification for your particular uses, such as squirrel hunting, bench rest competitions, or long range shooting.

For most types of 22LR rifle use, a variable-powered scope with low-powered magnification is ideal.

This allows you to use more than one magnification setting without buying multiple scopes.

Additionally, a variable-powered scope allows you to adjust quickly between different ranges without having to change out lenses or adjust settings on fixed power scopes.

What is the best trigger for a 22LR rifle?

The best trigger for a .22 LR rifle is one that is smooth, lightweight, and has little to no grit. It should be easy to pull with no grit or delay in firing.

The Savage AccuTrigger is one of the best affordable triggers available for a .22 LR rifle due to its adjustable design that allows you to customize your pull weight from 2 lbs all the way down to 0 lbs.

It also features an ergonomic shape that makes it comfortable and easy to use while still providing precise control over your shots.

Manticore makes an extremely adjustable Ruger 10/22 trigger.

What are the best accessories for a 22LR rifle?

When it comes to accessories for a 22LR rifle, there are many options available. Here is a list of some of the best accessories:

• Bipods – These provide stability and balance when shooting and can be used with most 22LR rifles. We cover a number of them in our best bipod guide.
• Scope or Optic – A scope or optic will allow you to accurately aim at your target and is essential if you plan on using your rifle for hunting or competition shooting purposes.
• Hearing Protection – While not a direct accessory to the gun ear protection is important when shooting any type of firearm as it helps reduce damage caused by exposure to loud noises while also preventing hearing loss over time if worn regularly while shooting.
• Magazine Loader – This tool makes loading magazines easier so that you can quickly reload without taking too much time away from the range or hunt.
• Gun Case – To ensure that your rifle stays in good condition during transport, it’s important to invest in a good gun case that protects it from dust, moisture, and other potential damage sources during travel.

What type of rifle is best for squirrel hunting?

For squirrel hunting, the best 22 LR rifle would be one that is accurate, lightweight and easy to use.

Options such as the Ruger 10/22, Savage A22, and Christensen Arms Ranger 22 are good choices for this purpose due to their accuracy and ease of use.

For maximum effectiveness when hunting squirrels with a 22 LR rifle, it is recommended that you use high-quality ammunition such as copper-plated hollow points or full metal jacket rounds that have been optimized for small game hunting.

It is important to practice shooting from different angles before going out in the field so that you can become more familiar with your rifle’s range and accuracy capabilities.

If you are looking for more of a fun and cool-looking gun check out the GSG 522.

Everybody knows what not to wear when you’re hunting; fur boots, a gas mask, and anything bright. What’s more difficult is knowing exactly what to wear, as well as which brands you can trust for hunting gear.

Today, I’ll be looking at some of the best hunting clothes brands and highlighting a bit about what makes each of them distinct, whether it’s their history, their innovations, or their product catalog.

The 10 Best Hunting Clothes Brands

#1: Sitka

If you have even a passing interest in the world of hunting clothes then you already know about Sitka.

Their layered garments are big deals and highly coveted by hunters everywhere. The company is also famous for their inventive use of GORE-TEX in their clothes to improve their waterproofing and overall durability.

It’s funny that I describe Sitka as standing atop the hunting clothes mountain because that’s where their story literally began.

The company’s founders were atop a freezing cold peak, desperately trying to hunt game, but suffered from underwhelming equipment. It was then that they realized that they weren’t alone.

I’m not saying that Bigfoot snuck up on them, but that their loneliness was a metaphor for how customers felt when they hunted using less-than-stellar apparel. Thus, they set out to make clothing that could withstand any and all elements.

That’s why many of their items contain materials like the aforementioned GORE-TEX alongside others like PrimaLoft and Polygiene.

Sitka develops all their items to be tough and dependable regardless of whether they’re made for big game, whitetail, waterfowl, or turkey hunting.

Highlights

• One of the most popular hunting clothes brands means their items are easy to find
• Gracious warranty and return policy
• Contributes grants to pro-environmental causes

#2: Kuiu

Jason Hairston founded Kuiu in 2011 as a way for customers to reliably purchase his designs.

Kuiu cut out the middle man and used a direct-to-consumer model that reduced costs, helped the brand develop deeper ties with their fanbase, and gain more intel to improve their products.

Their humble beginnings and close relationship with their customers helped Kuiu become one of the best hunting clothes brands of the past decade.

They became so beloved and regarded by people across the United States that they gained the approval of larger brands that wanted to support their vision.

The Main Post Partners, a California-based firm, invested $50m in Kuiu in 2017, allowing Hairston’s company to expand even more.

They used the investment to improve their testing policies in weather conditions like winter tundra, monsoons, and nighttime eclipses.

Kuiu is especially noted for their high-quality camouflage. Their designs use dense materials like Quixdown, 3DEFX+, and DOT AIR for flexible, reliable, and inconspicuous apparel.

Highlights

• Began as a small company, then expanded by building customer rapport
• Kuiu Inner Circle membership provides bonuses and exclusive perks
• Benefits and discounts for military members and first responders

#3: Filson

Let’s turn the clocks back to 1897, the year the electric bicycle was invented and Amelia Earheart was born.

Dwarfing both of those facts was Filson’s establishment. The Seattle-based company started by making clothes for pioneers and explorers during the Yukon Gold Rush, and only grew from there.

Nowadays you may feel like you’ve struck gold and feel quite a rush when you look through Filson’s wardrobe. They’ve recently adopted a larger lifestyle focus but still manufacture plenty of outwear items, vests, pants, and garments for fishers and hunters.

Filson’s catalog is more casual than some of the other best hunting clothing brands. That’s not a bad thing since there are few companies that make pieces that can fit in at a bar and in the wilderness as Filson’s.

So they’re a brand to look into if you want a more fashionable type of hunting apparel.

Highlights

• Versatile and modern looks
• Free shipping on all US orders over $75
• Free returns on all purchases

#4: Kryptek

If the first thing that popped into your head when you read this brand’s name was something about cryptocurrency then I’m sorry to disappoint you. Maybe I can make it up to you by explaining why Kryptek is one of the best hunting clothes brands.

Thankfully, their distinguishing features are instantly apparent. Kryptek’s clothes have a quality that most other brands couldn’t dream of matching.

The American brand uses military-grade technology to make military-worthy gear that doesn’t cost as much as a US fighter jet.

Kryptek was created by military veterans who realized that most hunting clothes lacked the durability of military wear. Their experience in their field gave them the insight necessary to apply combat-wear technology to hunting apparel.

It’s how they were able to introduce micro and macro-level camouflage designs and Kryptek Cool Touch fabrics (among other innovations) to consumer-level goods. They’re a great brand if you want hunting clothes that exude durability.

Highlights

• The company was founded by military veterans
• Unique camouflage technology gives a three-dimensional camo appearance
• Many retail locations in Washington

#5: Orvis

Orvis is a company that predates many modern hunting technologies like GPS, red dot sight, and online shopping. They’re actually the oldest active made-to-order business in the United States, which is a sign of Orvis’ commitment to customer satisfaction.

They began all the way back in 1856 in Manchester, Vermont by making fishing equipment. Fishing has remained part of their product repertoire alongside hunting goods for men, women, and children, and a fully developed line of canine items.

Activism is deeply embedded into Orvis’ DNA. They’ve donated to wildlife conversation organizations since the late 1800s. Orvis sends 5% of their annual income to environmental projects like the Atlantic Salmon Federation, Nature Conservancy, and the Ruffled Grouse Society.

You’ll find traditional rough-and-tough hunting gear standing shoulder to shoulder with relaxed trousers, sweaters, and polos in Orvis’ catalog, meaning they have an item for nearly every occasion.

Highlights

• Some of their proceeds are redistributed towards conservation efforts
• Free shipping on all orders if you use the code FREESHIP
• New subscribers of their email newsletter can receive a 15% discount

#6: First Lite

The next entry in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is this Idaho-based company. First Lite was entirely the product of their environment.

Founders Kenton Carruth and Scott Robinson both got their feet wet in the winter sports industry and wanted to find a way to combine winter technology with Idaho’s hunting potential.

They found that merino wool kept them warm at night, cool during the day, and didn’t leave them steaming with sweat the next day. The material’s versatility formed the backbone of First Lite’s mantra; to develop hunting clothes for any situation.

Interestingly, the desire to create versatile products allowed them to develop specific lines of clothes. First Lite has sets dedicated to some of these types of game:

1. Southern turkey
2. Northern turkey
3. Spring bear
4. Archery elk
5. Western big game

First Line develops simple garments for every layer. They make everything from boxer briefs to jackets, and every piece should last you through most seasons.

Highlights

• Use materials like merino wool
• Free shipping on orders over $199
• Can ship internationally

#7: Drake

You have no idea how many puns I want to make about this company, but I’m turning a new leaf here at Honest Brand Reviews. Therefore, Drake Waterfowl is safe, unlike the game you might be hunting if you wear one of their items.

As you can probably guess from their name, Drake Waterfowl planted their flag in the industry for their duck-hunting equipment.

However, focusing just on that would undermine the quality of their other collections. The brand also produces high-quality fishing, collegiate, non-typical, and casual apparel.

These apparel lines aren’t copied and pasted from one another either. Drake Waterfowl spends plenty of resources testing their products in the field. They tinker with each item’s construction to improve them for their intended purpose.

That’s why some of their lines, like the Drake Waterfowl Endurance Series, are made with flexibility but a bit more weight than other lines.

The style of game determines their functionality, and Drake Waterfowl take great care in tailoring their products to customer needs.

Highlights

• One of the best hunting clothes brands for duck hunting
• Items are intelligently designed for their specific purposes
• You can earn free shipping on orders over $75 if you sign up for the brand’s email newsletter

#8: King’s Camo

Here’s a screwback of an origin story for one of the best hunting clothes brands. King’s Camo originally started in 1995 as a manufacturer of graphic tees for King’s Calendars.

They started developing camo shirts in 2000 and launched their tentpole King’s Desert Shadow Camo two years later.

The design marked a shift in this company’s goals, and they pivoted hard towards making more hunting gear.

However, their focus still remains on innovating their camouflage. King’s Camo digs deeper into how a pattern can affect one’s performance on the hunt. You won’t find a company that puts more thought into camouflage patterns than these guys.

Seeing as that’s the case, their materials may not be as tough as some of the other best hunting clothes brands, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing given that King’s Camo still uses quality materials and isn’t cutting any corners.

Their defined vision caters to people who want to achieve supreme stealth.

Highlights

• They focus on optimizing camouflage patterns and textures
• Agreeable prices
• Free shipping on US orders that total more than $150

#9: Banded

Banded is a company that can make ducks quiver in their boots. They’re one of the best hunting clothes brands for waterfowl because many of their items are designed for warmer weather when fowl are more abundant. Banded’s products are uniformly lightweight and agile.

Their items are pretty stupendous when you consider the technology behind them. They utilize a GoSystem technical layering scheme where each of their products is divided into one of three categories:

• Shield layer
• Mid-layer
• Core layer

Each one serves a specific purpose but provides a versatile cover when combined. You can layer them atop one another without overheating or weighing yourself down.

Banded’s line of casual clothing is robust. They have athleisure pieces (and everyone could use more athleisure clothing in my opinion), sweaters, pullovers, trousers, and hats.

Highlights

• Lightweight and flexible waterfowl apparel
• A diverse collection of casual pieces
• VIP membership comes with exclusive perks

#10: Mossy Oak Camo

The final company I’ll highlight in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is one that came from the humblest of beginnings.

Mossy Oak Camo was founder Toxey Haas’ way of commemorating the leaves, earth, and branches scattered across his West Point, Mississippi stomping grounds. He worked alongside a company in 1986 to develop a fabric that would mimic those textures.

The design helped hunters blend into their surroundings more effectively, and Mossy Oak Camo slowly gained a strong foothold within the industry.

They’ve continued to reiterate and improve their designs too, launching new lines like the Mossy Oak Camo Obsession, the Mossy Oak Camo Elements Auga, and the Mossy Oak Camo Shadow Grass Blades.

As you can probably assume, this brand provides a huge array of camouflage patterns and textures.

Their assortment of subdivisions allows them to cover most types of game in most environments, making them a proverbial one-stop-shop for hunting apparel.

Highlights

• A diverse collection of camouflage
• Strong fanbase community that spurs each other to engage in environmental conservation
• Official partner of organizations like the DU, NWTF, and NRA

How to Shop For The Best Hunting Clothes

By now, you’re aware of what the best hunting clothes brands are, but you still might not know how to choose the best hunting apparel for you.

Luckily, I’ve cooked up a quick checklist that you can run through to help guide your decision.

Brand

Branding matters for a few reasons. Some brands can only ship to specific locations, some are more prosocial in environmental concerns, and some dedicate more time to customer satisfaction.

All of these can affect which of the best hunting clothes brands is the best for you without even seeing their product gallery.

Materials and Sustainability

The materials matter in hunting because they can influence a piece’s functionality. Comfort only matters so much if your pieces restrict your movement or don’t protect you against poor weather conditions.

Durability

An item’s durability refers to how well it can withstand the elements and the physical activity required in hunting. You don’t always need the heaviest-duty apparel, but you definitely want something that can get the job done.

Camouflage Abilities

Nobody ever wants to stick out like a sore thumb, especially when it comes to hunting. Some of the best hunting clothes brands that I listed made their names with their camouflage abilities, which speaks to how important good camo is in hunting.

Size

Size partially plays into camouflage and functionality, as a piece that’s too small can restrict movement while one that’s too large can be cumbersome.

Additional Features

Do you need an item that has additional protection? How about a jacket with plenty of storage for accessories? These are all extra features that can determine whether a piece is right for you.

Price

The best way to look at a product’s price is that it’s the sum of all the previous factors I just listed. You know that a cheap hunting jacket is going to be lacking in at least one regard, so it’s worth your time and effort to buy one that earns its price tag.

FAQ

What to wear to stay warm while hunting?

The best way to stay warm while you hunt is by layering up. You should build your layers like this:

• A base layer of merino wool
• A mid-layer that insulates while wicking away moisture, ex. Fleece
• A top layer that protects against the wind and rain

What is the best color to wear while hunting?

This depends on what game you’re hunting and where you’re hunting. Neutral and earthy colors are the smartest ones to wear as you’ll want to blend into your environment.

Can you hunt in jeans?

The problem with hunting in jeans is not the material – in fact, denim is a great fabric for hunting because it’s so durable – but the color. If you do hunt in jeans then opt for neutral tones rather than blue jeans.

What camo is best for deer hunting?

You’re going to want to choose a green camouflage when you go deer hunting. Prime deer season is when many plants are at their most vibrant, so you’ll want to fit into the flora.

Final Thoughts

The best hunting clothes brands all serve similar purposes – to help you become the best hunter possible – in their own unique ways. I hope that my list has helped you decide which company most closely aligns with what you’re looking for in a piece of hunting apparel.

Check out some of our recently published articles:

10 Best Jacket Brands

8 Best Carpet Brands

10 Best Watch Brands For Women

20 Best Plant Based Protein Shakes

At first glance, moose and horses look somewhat similar. They’re both ungulates, or mammals with hooves, walk on four legs, and have a similar body and head shape. That’s about where the similarities end, though.

In the U.S., horses are almost exclusively pets, while moose almost exclusively live in the wild. Male moose have antlers; horses don’t. And while there are a few different species of moose, just like there are many horse breeds, horses are faster while moose are larger. Generally, a moose weighs up to 1,400 pounds (635 kg), while horses typically weigh a maximum of 1,200 (550 kg) pounds.

Here are 11 photos that help showcase the size difference between moose and horses.

Jump to:

• 1. Size Comparison
• 2. There Are Some Exceptions
• 3. A Little Bit Taller
• 4. Just a Bystander
• 5. Different Sizes for Different Climates
• 6. Watch the Road
• 7. Keep a Safe Distance
• 8. Watch Out for the Antlers
• 9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose
• 10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine
• 11. Care to Share?
• Final Thoughts

1. Size Comparison

On average, a moose will be heavier, taller, and longer than a horse. In fact, they’re the largest species in the family Cervidae, which also includes elk and deer.

2. There Are Some Exceptions

While moose are typically larger than horses, there are some horse breeds that have the moose beat. The Shire horse, for example, is one of the largest horse breeds and can greatly outweigh a moose. A stallion Shire horse usually ranges from 1,950-2,400 pounds (900-1100 kg). The largest Shire horse, a gelding named Samson, topped the scales at 3,360 pounds (1,524 kg)!

3. A Little Bit Taller

While the moose is closer to the camera in this photo, it’s still pretty clear that it’s taller than the horse. The average height of a moose at the shoulders is between 4 feet 7 inches (1.3 meters) and 6 feet 11 inches (2.1 meters), while horses, on average, are about five feet tall (1.5 meters).

4. Just a Bystander

Though there have been people throughout history who have managed to domesticate moose, it doesn’t happen often. This moose seems perfectly content to watch his fellow ungulates pull a wagon.

5. Different Sizes for Different Climates

Domesticated horses can be found all over the world today, but modern horses originally came from central Asia. Moose, however, are only found in the wild in the northern parts of North America and Eurasia. They stay warm thanks to their thick fur but also their massive size, which helps their bodies retain heat.

6. Watch the Road

While moose are usually larger, both moose and horses are big enough to cause big problems on the road. Both are typically taller than a sedan, and moose can be as tall as or taller than a pickup truck. While not as common as hitting a deer, there are still about 500 incidents involving moose each year in New England alone. Moose can also do much more damage to vehicles and are more likely to result in fatalities than an accident with a dear.

While it’s much less common to hit a horse, as they don’t often roam free, there are still a handful of incidents each year. They most often happen between October and December and usually on main roads. Things are especially bad in Amish country, where they use horse-drawn carriages instead of vehicles. Pennsylvania calculated that between 2007-2016, there were 633 crashes that involved horses and buggies, with a total of 23 deaths.

To avoid colliding with a moose or horse, use caution when driving through wilderness, farmland, or areas where horse-drawn carriages are common.

7. Keep a Safe Distance

It’s hard to say what would happen if a moose and horse were to meet; there isn’t a lot of research done, and it would depend on the specific horse and moose. However, moose are known to be aggressive at times and, because of their size, can inflict serious damage. If you’re riding your horse and run into a moose, it’s best to keep your distance and get away as quickly and calmly as possible, especially if your horse spooks easily.

8. Watch Out for the Antlers

While the body of a moose is typically going to be taller than the body of a horse, that size difference only grows when you factor in a moose’s antlers. The antlers, which are made of bone, average between four and five feet (1.2-1.5 meters) wide and can weigh between 25 and 30 pounds (11-16.5 kilograms). Only male moose, or bulls, have antlers, and they typically use their antlers to assert dominance.

9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose

Most often, the male moose, or bulls, are the aggressive ones. While moose typically will leave you alone, they can also carry a parasite called a brainworm that increases their aggression. If an angry moose attacks a horse, the moose may fight using its antlers or by kicking with its front hooves. Moose can kick both straight ahead and sideways. Combined with their muscular build, this makes them particularly dangerous in a fight.

10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine

Just because moose are bigger and stronger doesn’t mean they can’t get along with their distant cousins. Blogger and horse trainer Carola Sossdorf adopted an orphaned moose named Emma when the moose was just a few days old. While a female moose is less likely to be aggressive anyway, being raised among other horses likely helped her get used to having horses around.

11. Care to Share?

This photographer managed to snap a photo of a horse and moose sharing a meal, but that doesn’t happen often, in part because the two animals have different dietary needs. Both are herbivores, meaning they exclusively eat plants, but they choose different plants for their diets. Horses typically dine on grass and hay, as well as the oats in horse feed.

Moose, however, typically eat leaves and twigs from woody plants they can find in their natural habitat. Leaving food out for moose is not advised, as offering them food outside of their diet can cause them harm.

Final Thoughts

On average, you’ll find moose to be taller than horses, but there are always exceptions. Part of the reason moose are built to be larger is that their body mass helps them survive in the colder climates they inhabit. Because horses are domesticated in North America, they’re usually more used to being around people. Moose, however, can sometimes become aggressive, so it’s best to avoid them when possible.

Both animals are beautiful creatures with majestic, strong natures. While you can snuggle up to a horse, given the tendencies of moose, it’s best to watch them from a distance.

I’m sitting in the low water of the Rondout Creek next to my house, with the water flowing past slowly. The sun glints off the water and dances in the most complex and beautiful way. Trees are swaying and cedar waxwings are darting in the blue sky above. In my hands and all around me, floating in the slow moving water are lengths of basswood fiber. Fiber from the bark of a tree I had carefully chosen earlier in the season from the adjacent bank to harvest and process into fiber to be used in making baskets. In this moment I feel completely serene and smile, letting the beauty of this perfect summer day fill me.

This memory of being in the river and rinsing basswood inner bark fiber represents why I do what I do in the deepest way. It was a glimpse of what it feels like to really be a human being on this earth; working with the plants and being in touch with the landscape. The entire process of working with basswood, from choosing a tree to using the fiber in baskets is very dear to me and I want to share that experience with you in this post. As you read below please remember that the plants are our greatest teachers. Just when I think I know something about basswood I get shown a new way by the plant itself! I encourage you to try the process yourself and build your own personal knowledge of working with this wonderful tree. At my 2017 Wild Basketry program I loved seeing participants getting to know the tree throughout the entire season from harvest to completing twined bags at the end of the 8 months we spent together.

Basswood, American Linden, Tilia Americana,

Basswood is the common name of one of our most beautiful native trees in North America, specifically in the region of central New York state where I live. Tilia Americana is the common name, but it is also often called by the name Linden. Besides being a wonderful shade tree the leaves are incredibly rich nutrients and serve to nourish the forest floor each year. And of course its name hints at one of its most valuable purposes: basswood = bast = fiber. The inner bark of the wonderful tree can be removed from the trunk, retted, and made into fiber for a variety of projects. It was valued by many native peoples from the east coast to the Great Lakes region. I wonder… did someone sit in the very river I harvest my basswood from and do the same process three hundred years ago? Tilia as a genus was not only important to North America. A quick glance at wikipedia tells us that there are around 30 species of Tilia throughout the northern hemisphere. In Europe it is commonly known as Linden, or Lime tree. Traditionally it was used to make cordage and other fiber products all across its range. What a truly wonderful tree.

What is Basswood Used For?

Basswood fiber makes for excellent cordage. The long lengths you can obtain are its main advantage. It may not be as strong as dogbane or as soft as milkweed, but I love the color it’s flexibility. It also takes dye really well.

It is also great for using in twined projects, using as a sewing strand, wrapping, and basically any thing else you can dream of! Recently I’ve also been using the inner bark before it is retted as long flexible stakes for weaving pack baskets. I hope that in a year I can update this post with even more used for this great material! If you are fortunate enough to be surrounded by basswood tree you are indeed lucky and blessed.

How to Harvest and Process Basswood

When to Harvest

I have found that the best season for me to harvest and peel the bark from basswood in my part of the world, which is the Hudson Valley, in New York State, is in June. I have peeled logs as early as May and as late as October and it still works, but is more difficult to separate the inner bark from the wood log.

How to Choose a Tree

The perfect tree is the one that says yes when you ask if it is open to becoming something new. There are many ways to ask a tree if it is ready, but I’ll share my process. First I close my eyes, touch the tree and just ask, either out loud or in thought. Then I step back and really look at the tree and it’s surroundings. Is it part of a cluster of many trees where removing it won’t damage the ecosystem or is it the only basswood in the forest? Is it easy to get to or far out of reach? Will cutting it down damage other trees? Is the tree healthy or struggling to survive? Is there a bird’s nest and its branches? Does it just feel right or wrong? Does it for fulfill the general requirements for a good basket tree listed below? Pay attention to the signs and trust your instincts. Don’t be afraid to hear no and continue looking.

The Specifics of Good Basket Tree

Besides the tree’s readiness to be cut down, you are also looking for physical characteristics which make a tree better for getting long, straight, easy to use fiber. A long, straight trunk with very few branches is ideal. I usually harvest trees between 5 and 10 inches in diameter which are growing tightly in clusters with more basswoods. This being said you can also remove the bark from fallen branches, crooked trees, and other less ideal trees. I recently removed the bark from a large 16″ diameter tree. It was backbreaking work, but so far the bark seems like it’ll be great. Some I used as thicker stakes and some I put in a bin to ret.

Removing the Outer Bark

After you have safely cut down the tree, you can remove any unnecessary branches and either prepare to remove the bark in the field, or move the trunk to your working area. If I have a very long trunk I’ll usually cut it into sections about 10 feet long to carry out. In my process I use a draw knife to first remove the rough great outer bark from the log. You want to get all the scaly gray bark off without cutting too deeply into be inner bark. It’s a fine line and only practice will help you get over the learning curve of this process.

Peeling the Inner Bark Off the Log

Once the log is completely smooth I will cut lines about 4 inches apart down the entire log through the inner bark layer all the way into the wood. Then peel each section up from the log. This is the material that will become cordage after it is retted. The wood you are left with is excellent for carving; soft and easy to work with. Save it or give it to a friend who will make good use of it.

Retting Basswood Fiber

As soon as you have peeled the sections of basswood inner bark from the trunk it is time to put them through a process called retting. Retting sounds alot like ‘rotting’ and in a way that is what is happening. In water retting you submerge the lengths of basswood inner bark in water for a period of 6-8 weeks. During this time microorganisms in the water rot away the cellular tissue and pectins leaving only the long gorgeous strands of bast fiber. It’s a stinky, fun process that is a good way to scare your neighbors away as buckets of rotting bark sit out all summer next to your house! It may end up taking longer than 8 weeks. Just test it and put it back if it’s not done. Sometimes I’ll even peel half of the layers off and then put it back to get the rest of it retted enough to use.

It is best in my opinion to ret your basswood fibers in water that is full of life. River or pond water is great, but if you must use water from the hose the process will still work, but it seems to take longer. I usually take a large tote bin down to the river. First I put the basswood lengths in the tote using the space in the most economical way, by putting coils inside coils until the whole bin is full.

Be gentle when coiling your basswood. If you bend it too sharply it will crack and those cracks will come back to haunt you later when you find your fibers are broken into two foot sections along the length of your beautiful 8 foot piece of bark. Learn from my mistakes and be patient and gentle! Then I use a bucket to fill the bin to the top, making sure it is far enough from the bank that rising water won’t wash it away.

Make sure every single inch is completely submerged with a couple inches of water on top. Do not skimp on this! Even a tiny piece exposed can be a real pain later. Don’t be lazy, and take your time weighing down the pieces with rocks. I was wisely told once that impatience is wanting something for nothing. If it doesn’t all fit then get another bin or bucket. Again I have taken shortcuts and ended up with dry spots in the middle of otherwise perfectly good lengths.

Let the bin of basswood fiber sit for 6-8 weeks, or longer. Check on it to make sure water levels are good. Sometimes if the water gets too nasty I’ll pour it out and refill it. I’m not sure if leaving the same nasty water or changing it periodically is better for the basswood.

When is it ready? You can tell it’s ready when the bark is very flexible when you squeeze it. Give it a test once in awhile and usually after 6-8 weeks it is ready. You can always take one piece out and try rinsing it and if it doesn’t come apart then put it back in for longer.

Rinsing the Basswood Fiber

My favorite way of rinsing basswood fiber is to take the lengths of bark into the river itself. There, rub the bark and bend it and if it is ready soon you will see layers of the bark start to separate. Continue to work it, peeling and rubbing and squeezing it until beautiful, translucent layers of fiber separate along the whole length of the bark. They may feel slimy. Just continue to rinse them until they feel clean and then take each piece or group of pieces and let them dry in the sun. Either before or after they dry I like to bundle each group of pieces neatly so they don’t get tangled in storage. Make sure they are completely dry before storing them. You put so much work into processing and harvesting, not to mention all the work the tree did growing. Don’t let it go to waste and be grateful for every inch of beautiful fiber that you iwll soon be making into beautiful products.

Making bags, cordage, and more