Amy Trubek

2004 | No. 68

The Shagbark Hickory Nut Is It the Finest Native American Nut?

By Amy Trubek

“They are the nobility of nuts,” the chef Odessa Piper says, “what the black truffle is to mushrooms.” Shagbark hickory nuts have “more flavor… more snap, more tooth-feel than either pecans or walnuts.” Unlike most nuts, toasting is required to intensify their flavor and create the shattering texture that makes them unique. Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) is a relative of the pecan and a North American native, widely found in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa. It’s hard to miss because the unique bark peels away from the tree in thin strips from six inches to four feet long. The trees are often found along roadsides. On the small dairy farms that dominate the rolling hills of southern Wisconsin, the cornfields and cow pastures mingle with stands of oak and hickory.

Gathering hickory nuts has long been part of rural Wisconsin family life. I went looking for hickory nuts late one fall, when the leaves had turned a vibrant mustard yellow. The nuts had dropped to the ground, their moist green husks now hard and black, having split open along four ribs to expose thin but strong inner shells. Several people told me that when they were young, their families would take a drive in the country and pull over when someone spotted a tree. The kids would pile out of the car and race to see who could pick up the most nuts the fastest. These people recalled with pleasure the nut’s luscious combination of sweet and smoky. But as to shelling… on that subject their eyes tended to glaze over.

Shelling the nuts is drudgery. Once the hard shell is broken, typically with a hammer, the meats have to be pried out. One serious harvester I met uses a dental pick. A pound of nutmeats takes a lot of cracking and picking and scraping — up to four hours’ worth — which explains why hickory nuts are rarely found in supermarkets or restaurants. Conventional wisdom in Wisconsin holds that this activity is for old-timers.

The main place to find shelled shagbark hickory nuts for sale is at farmers’ markets. At the one in Madison, various stands sell them. Harvey Ruehlow of the Nut Factory says, “The old guys are dying off, and the young people don’t have time.” He and his wife, Beverly, learned to forage and pick from Harvey’s dad, who loved to eat cinnamon rolls topped with chopped hickory nuts — it used to be that the nuts were used only for baking.

Note on toasting from Edward Behr

Eaten raw, shagbark hickory nuts have an echo of the curious rancid fruit flavor of another North American native, the black walnut — most people don’t like it. But shagbark hickory nuts respond unusually well to toasting, and they require a degree of it to taste their best. A mere light toasting causes the odd fruitiness to disappear and a superior taste to emerge, like a cross between a regular walnut and a pecan. Enough toasting also gives a satisfying, soft, oily crunch. The effect is so good that either the shagbark hickory or the wild pecan, another member of the hickory family, is the finest native North American nut. (A competitor, once, would have been the American chestnut, before the chestnut blight eliminated it.) To toast the nuts, heat the oven to 250 degrees F, spread them on a metal baking sheet or pan, toast for two minutes until they show some color, stir, and then toast for at least a minute or two longer. The longer the time, the stronger the flavor and the more crunch. Our small group of tasters preferred them after 10 or even 15 minutes. ● From issue 68

The internet is rife with myth, heresies, and conspiracy theories born out of fiction, but mercury tipped bullets do not exist. Not commercially and not legally either. Also, a mercury tipped bullet wouldn’t become the explosive projectile imagined by Frederick Forsyth in Day of the Jackal.

I highly doubt there are ballistic advantages if any, that mercury tipped bullets may have over their standard counterparts. In the instance that a mercury-tipped round is successfully fired, it would be for but one deadly purpose.

How Deadly Would Mercury Tipped Bullets Be?

Depending on the purity of the mercury you want to use, you’ll need more than 10 grams or 0.353 ounces to make it potentially lethal. To overcome splatter and in the case of over-penetration, you’ll need to up the dose so that enough mercury is absorbed into the body.

The added payload weight would significantly mess with a mercury tipped bullet’s ballistics. Depending on the amount absorbed prior to the target getting medical help, any heavy metal poisoning won’t have immediate terminal effects.

Liquid mercury targets the liver, heart, kidneys, and the central nervous system. If a victim gets doses of a chelating agent, the effects of identifiable symptoms may be reduced.

While acute poisoning by mercury tipped bullets will often lead to death, it’s from liver or kidney damage that was pre-existing.

Another possibility is that the mercury will attack the central nervous system and the brain. All I am saying is, the mercury tipped bullets gunshot wound could prove more fatal than a secondary poisoning by the heavy metal.

However, some of its compounds, like mercury fulminate are highly toxic and sensitive to friction or heat.

A bullet tipped with mercury fulminate will explode, not in a dramatic Day of the Jackal style, but fragment further nonetheless. Unlike liquid mercury where the victim is slowly poisoned to death, mercury fulminate acts soon after the gunshot.

Let’s examine the myths surrounding mercury tipped bullets and scenarios where they have been tried and tested.

Forsyth’s Weight behind the Mercury Tipped Bullets Myth

The Day of the Jackal is Frederick Forsyth’s bestselling novel based on a real-life terrorist. He describes a process where bullets are filled with mercury, enabling them to explode on impact.

The bullet tip was drilled, and a drop of mercury poured into the hole, which was then sealed. According to Forsyth, when this bullet is fired, the mercury pushes forward to augment the round’s ballistic capabilities.

This concept, designed for maximum knockdown power, was one envisioned sorely in a work of fiction, though a few individuals claim to have tried it. It capitalizes on the bullet’s momentum and the continual devastation that the mercury carries past the fragmented round.

There are many holes that I can punch into a theory involving topping off bullets with mercury, or any other ballistic substance for that matter.

The very thing intended to make the slug explode on impact can also detonate when it’s firing from the chamber with grievous ramifications for the gun and the shooter. It’s all imaginable and may sound doable, but that’s until you factor in the physics.

And then there are legal angles since there is no way you’ll be wasting precious metals like mercury at the range. Hunting is also out of the question, and shooting such a bullet in self-defense will amount to murder.

That’s all if your mercury tipped bullets can deliver it to your target.

Amalgam Attributes of Mercury with Bullet Materials

Encasing mercury on the tip of a bullet is a procedure that shouldn’t be attempted without protective gear. Mercury is a toxic metal and reacts in peculiar ways that might catch you off-guard, with dire consequences.

Like I stated earlier, making mercury tipped bullets has been attempted, albeit in controlled environments.

Kotzar’s Findings

One instance detailed by Geoff Kotzar in a Google Group’s discussion cites what happened when he used .22LR hollow points. He injected mercury into the hollow cavity and then applied epoxy to enclose it.

Kotzar left his rounds standing overnight and when he woke up the following morning, his lead slugs had turned silver-like. What he hadn’t realized is that mercury forms an amalgam or a composite with almost all metals.

This amalgam can be solid, soft, or liquid depending on the ratio of mercury. A good example of common amalgam use is in dentistry for dental fillings and in gold mining where ore is amalgamated with mercury.

Dental fillings, particularly from before composite resins were developed, used tin, copper, silver, zinc or indium. The resultant amalgams were soft and plausible during the application but hardened as the metal was added to proportions greater than the mercury ratio.

The lead hollow points .22LRs in which Geoff Kotzar encased mercury readily became amalgams, turning a silver color. He didn’t find a trace of the mercury, and the cavity only contained the receded epoxy at the bottom.

The resultant amalgam, despite the mercury present within, is a brittle and homogenous bullet that is bound to break up mid-flight instead of exploding on impact.

This round may stray way off target due to interferences in its ballistic coefficients. After the amalgamation, there is no actual mercury that will leach out of this slug, just like in dental tooth fillings.

Going by the conventional hollow point cavity could be that a coating or an actual bullet made from a non-amalgamating metal holds the solution.

A few notable metals that mercury does not form amalgams with include iron, tungsten, tantalum, and platinum.

The Mercury Fulminate Angle

An alternative to liquid mercury tipped bullets would be to fill a hollow point, or drilled cavity with mercury II fulminate.

A primary explosive, mercury fulminate is used as a percussion or blasting cap trigger for igniting other explosions. This crystalline substance is highly sensitive to shock, friction or heat, and is similar to mercury II cyanate as both are isomers.

Mercury fulminate replaced flints as trigger means for muzzleloader black powder charges back in the 1820s. Years later, the compound was incorporated into primers for pistol and self-contained rifle ammo.

Although mercury fulminates potency weakens with time, it’s non-corrosive and decomposes into the elements which constitute it.

Due to the reduced mercury forming amalgams with brass cartridges, fulminate was replaced by more effective lead styphnate, tetrazene derivatives, and lead azide.

Mercury supplies can also be unreliable, and wartime supply deficits steered munitions manufacturers to try other chemistry.

Though not like books and movies purport, filling a bullet tip with crystals of mercury fulminate would create a projectile that explodes on impact. Fulminate ignites at less than 300° Fahrenheit, exploding with a velocity of about 4,000 fps.

I am taking the liberty to assume that firing the cartridge doesn’t make the bullet explode inside your gun’s barrel.

The person who created the mercury tipped exploding bullets myth may have heard about the explosive qualities of mercury II fulminate. I do not doubt that someone has tried it and probably ended up knee-deep in a mess, perhaps even a terminal one.

The Curious Case of a Deputy Shot with Mercury Tipped Bullets

Having trolled the internet and examined several stories researching the existence of mercury tipped bullets, one stands out.

In San Antonio Texas, a sheriff’s deputy was shot nearly 30 years ago but only died last year. Bexar County deputy Leo Gomez was shot by a gang-affiliated individual on the 24th of February, 1991.

Gomez was hit seven times with mercury tipped bullets, by a gang member named Enrique Lopez. The suspect, who had been stopped and questioned by the officer, pulled out a .45 automatic pistol and fired several mercury-tipped slugs at the deputy.

Although Gomez survived the shooting, the mercury remained within his body. This led to years of health issues, and an early retirement which culminated with terminal brain cancer.

Detectives later found out that the shooter had retrieved mercury from a thermometer, pouring it down the tips of his hollow-point bullets.

According to colleagues of the late deputy Leo Gomez, he suffered a lot and for many years. He did recover from the gunshot wounds and got back to work at the sheriff’s office.

A lot of blood work was done, and he became a sort of test subject for US air force medical researchers. Leo however surprised all his doctors by living when they expected him to die, and at that, vigorously at his love of motorcycles and police work.

He retired early from the Bexar county precinct three but continued to work as a reserve deputy constable. After a motorbike crash that left him with serious injuries in 2016, Leo was diagnosed with brain cancer.

This prompted his total retirement from law enforcement in 2018. He passed away at the age of 63, on Thursday, May 2nd, 2019.

Are Exploding Rounds a Myth Too?

Although not actually in use at the time, exploding bullets were discovered over a century ago. When their destructive nature came under review, however, the 1868 St. Petersburg declaration was instituted.

This states that inflammable projectiles or explosives under 14 ounces should never be employed during wartime.

Examples of the explosive rounds in existence at the time were the 7.62mm x54R Russian machine gun cartridge. These had a phosphorous and tetryl internal charge.

Later, Pyrodex charges were added to handgun cartridges, sometimes with a mercury additive.

Due to the level of innovation and customization that’s present in the world of guns, individuals can easily obtain instructions on making bullets that explode.

One of the most infamous examples of the use of exploding rounds is President Ronald Reagan’s attempted assassination in 1981. The would-be assassin, a man named John Hinckley used Bingham Devastator rounds, slugs of which were extracted from the president and a policeman.

The .22 caliber Devastators are composed of an aluminum tip within which a lead azide center is lacquer sealed. You will not come across these rounds today, seeing as their sale was restricted following the 81 incident.

Explosive incendiaries inside small-caliber bullets tend to have inconsistent results. Mostly the explosion doesn’t happen, a fact that Reagan thanked for his life.

Expanding Bullets Can Be Confused With Exploding Ones

Rifle and pistol bullets have been designed that expand or mushroom on impact. Hunting rounds in particular have half jackets, exposing the soft nose so that the lead expands to minimize over-penetration.

During the Burmese campaign, the old lee Enfield .303 round-nosed bullets were modified at an arms factory in India. This increased their terminal capacity, and they earned the nickname ‘dum-dum bullets’.

With the adoption of spitzer rounds which are pointed, the dum-dum bullets faded into oblivion. The term is however still used to refer to expanding bullets.

The most common handgun round with expanding properties is the JHPs or jacketed hollow points. This bullet has an axial hole within which is a tiny polymer cap, where theorists insist mercury can be added.

When mercury is mentioned in conjunction with expanding rounds, it’s probably mercury compounds in the materials rather than elemental liquid mercury.

Farm-Fresh Eggs are in high demand right now with store prices skyrocketing. People are turning to their chicken-keeping neighbors for food instead of choosing the convenience of the grocery store. This is a great thing! However, many people struggle to eat fresh eggs because they have been led to believe that these eggs are not safe for consumption. So today, we will dig into the question- “Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?”

Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?

Short answer- yes!

Longer answer- It can depend on a few different variables that hinge on the specific chicken keeper.

Let’s talk about these variables and the differences between farm-fresh and store-bought eggs.

Farm-Fresh Eggs are Different than Store-Bought Eggs

What makes eggs straight from the farm different than the eggs that you can purchase at the grocery store?

1. Age

The eggs that you find sitting in a grocery store refrigerator are between 6 weeks and 2 months old. While eggs sold by your local farmer can last that long (even longer when stored properly), he/she usually won’t sell them at that age.

2.NutrientContent

Farm-fresh eggs have been shown to contain less cholesterol, more vitamins & nutrients, and much more Omega 3 fatty acids than typical store-bought eggs. The nutritional value of an egg is related to the diet of the bird (think solely pellet-fed vs. homemade feed vs. free-range) so this factor can vary from one farm to the next.

3. Protective Coating

Most eggs sold straight from the farm still have the bloom intact. Bloom is a protective coating that the hen covers her egg in before she lays it. Eggs sold in grocery store refrigerators have had this bloom removed so bacteria can freely enter through the pores in the shell.

Factors that Affect Egg Safety

Eggs from backyard chickens are safe to eat when the birds are healthy, the coop is clean, the eggs have an intact bloom, and they are handled properly. It is a good idea to get to know the farmer/homesteader you buy eggs from (and use good practices if you are selling eggs).

Be aware that many chicken owners do not allow on-site tours of their coops due to biosecurity issues. However, they should be willing to tell you about their practices.

Flock Living Conditions & Health

The condition of the coop, run, feed, and water are all related to egg safety. The flock should have access to:

• A dry, clean, and draft-free coop
• Clean nest boxes-1 box per 4 chickens is recommended
• Fresh and clean water (The water may get dirty throughout the day, but should be changed as needed.)

Flock health is very important as well because a sick flock could equal sick (or lower quality) eggs. Sick birds should be quarantined and treated separately from healthy chickens.

Egg Handling Practices

• Eggs should be collected daily and multiple times per day during extreme heat and cold.
• Farm-fresh eggs can be left unwashed and out on the counter at room temperature OR they can be washed and placed in the refrigerator. Unwashed eggs are usually the better option (we will talk about why in a minute).
• The oldest eggs should be used/sold first. Using an egg organizer like an egg skelter is a good way to keep the oldest eggs moving out first.
• Egg cartons CAN safely be reused
• Broken and cracked eggs should be discarded.

Intact Bloom

An egg is laid with a porous shell. This means that bacteria and other small particles can move in and out of the shell. To protect the egg’s contents, the hen produces a protective layer called bloom.

The bloom is a protective coating that a hen places on her eggs before she lays them. This coating protects the egg by sealing the eggshell pores, preventing bacteria from permeating the shell. This is why most backyard chicken keepers advocate for selling unwashed eggs.

With the protective bloom intact, eggs can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks (sometimes up to a month). Once the egg is washed, however, the bloom is removed and the egg can no longer be safely stored at room temp. Washed eggs must be refrigerated to keep bacteria from growing in and on them.

When Should Eggs Be Washed?

If you have a clean coop with clean nesting boxes, then typically your eggs will be clean. However, that is not always the case. When it is rainy outside, the birds can bring mud in on their feet & bottoms which transfers to the egg shells.

This isn’t an issue since the bloom is still intact, but if you are selling eggs, your customers may prefer dirty eggs to be washed. Otherwise, there is no need to wash farm-fresh eggs until just before you plan to eat them.

Eggs should be washed in warm water, slightly warmer (by about 20 degrees F) than the shell. This helps to keep bacteria from moving back into the egg through the shell. Using cold water can create a vacuum that pulls bacteria into the egg.

How to Store Fresh Eggs Safely

Storing fresh eggs is just a bit different than storing eggs from the grocery store. This is because of the difference in egg age and the presence of the bloom. There are several ways to preserve and extend the shelf life of eggs such as by freezing, dehydrating, water glassing, and freeze-drying.

Shelf Life of Fresh Eggs

• Washed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 6-8 weeks
• Unwashed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 3-6 months
• Unwashed fresh eggs at room temperature: 2-3 weeks.

Shelf Life of Store-Bought Eggs

Store-bought eggs are washed and must be stored in the refrigerator (this is at least true in the United States). They are usually good for 3-4 weeks after the packing date. The packing date is listed as a Julian date on each egg carton. Do not confuse this with the “best by” date.

How to Recognize Bad Eggs

If you want to test your eggs before cracking them, you can use a few different methods:

1. Egg Float Test

The float test is a little bit controversial. Some people swear by it and some say that it is unreliable. Place an egg in a bowl of water. If the egg floats it is bad, if it sinks it is good. The idea is that a bad egg will float because the air cell inside has grown large enough to make it buoyant.

1. Candling

Candling is the process of shining a light through the egg to view the contents- almost like an x-ray. You can use this method to see if a chick has begun to develop (if it has been with the hens for several days) or to see if there are dark spots that may indicate a rotten egg.

1. Shake Test

You can shake an egg close to your ear to listen for a sloshing sound. The idea with this test is that as the egg ages, the air pocket grows and the contents shrink so there is more room for the yolk and white to slosh around.

1. Crack into another bowl

You can also simply crack your eggs one at a time in a separate bowl. This keeps one bad egg from ruining the entire batch that you are cooking with. Just note that if you do crack a bad egg, you may smell it for a while.

With proper flock management and egg handling, you can lay the question, “Are farm-fresh eggs safe?” to rest!

Raising Backyard Chickens

Keep reading to learn even more about the joys of raising backyard chickens on the homestead!

• Basics of Raising Chickens
• Using Cardboard Bedding in the Chicken Coop
• 6 Reasons Every Homestead Needs a Rooster
• How Do You Keep Chickens Warm?
• How to Treat Common Chicken Illnesses
• 10 Ways to Help Chickens Beat the Heat
• 10 Dual-Purpose Chicken Breeds
• Save Money Raising Chickens for Eggs

Be prepared when you enter the turkey woods this spring with this year’s must-have gear.

Mossberg International SA-28 Tactical Turkey ShotgunNow that modern loads can turn sub-gauge shotguns into true turkey killers, it’s time to get a modern sub-gauge shotgun. The International SA-28 Tactical Turkey is a small-framed semi-auto gas gun with a 2¾-inch chamber designed specifically with that in mind. At only 39 inches long, this 6-pound featherweight sports a straight stock and a contoured pistol grip, providing a short but maneuverable 12.75-inch LOP. Highly visible fiber-optic ghost-ring sights come standard on the 22-inch, vent-rib barrel, as does the top-mounted Picatinny rail should you choose to add an optic. Decked out in Mossy Oak Greenleaf camo, this bad boy ships ready-to-hunt with an extended turkey choke. Also available in 20-gauge. MSRP: $902; mossberg.com.

Primos Turkey CallsWhen turkey season comes calling, Primos has what you need to call back with confidence. Three new calls for spring include The Owl Call, The Crow Call and a new aluminum Rare Breed pot call. The Owl and Crow locator calls are both made of hardwood and are designed with built-in back pressure to allow for a wide range of sounds sure to elicit a gobble from any toms in earshot. The Rare Breed pot call is now available with a water-resistant, no-conditioning-required aluminum striking surface that’ll produce wind-cutting high-pitch notes right out of the box, ringin’ the ears of lonely toms near and far. MSRP: $54.99 Owl, $45.99 Crow, $49.99 Rare Breed; primos.com.

Hevi-Shot Turkey LoadsHevi-Shot has jumped on the proverbial TSS bandwagon this year with something a bit different in its new Hevi-18 TSS Turkey shells. Not only have they loaded premium 18 g/cc density No. 7 and No. 9 TSS into their 3½- and 3-inch 12-, 20-, .410 and 28-gauge loads, but they’ve also launched a reduced-recoil 2¾-inch load of Hevi-18 for your 12- and 20-gauge guns. Now available in a 3-inch 28-gauge load, Hevi-Shot’s Magnum Blend is a bit more economical but just as deadly with a blend of 12 g/cc density No. 5, No. 6 and No. 7 tungsten shot packed into each hull. MSRP: $45.99-$103.99 Hevi-18, $38.99-$60.99 Magnum Blend; hevishot.com.

Mojo Scoot-N-Shoot Max Turkey DecoyIf you were a fan of the original Mojo Shoot-N-Scoot “reaping” decoy, then the upgraded Shoot-N-Scoot Max should tickle your tail feathers. Built to take advantage of the aggressive nature of breeding gobblers, sometimes resulting in charging birds at uncomfortably close ranges, the new Max version sports the ability to attach either the included artificial wings and tail fan to get a turkey’s attention, or the real thing. Fan includes a mesh viewing window and wings sport orange for safety. Check local laws surrounding turkey “reaping” before you hit the field. MSRP: $79.99; mojooutdoors.com.

Iver Johnson Pump Turkey ShotgunLooking for a solid turkey gun that’ll tackle turkeys nationwide but won’t put you in the hole? This 12-gauge pump gun from Iver Johnson is all that and more. While the PAS12MO could use a better name, it sports a Mossy Oak Obsession camo finish, twin action bars for dependable cycling, a 3-inch chamber, a Pic rail for mounting optics and, perhaps best of all, the push-button ability to remove the buttstock and convert to a pistol-grip shotgun with a 24-inch barrel. How cool is that? MSRP: $386; iverjohnsonarms.com.

Nomad Bull Lounger Turkey VestBe you a run-and-gun gobble chaser or a sit-and-wait ambush hunter, the Bull Lounger adapts to your style of hunting. A lightweight, adjustable and removable aluminum frame provides a solid back rest just about anywhere a turkey may demand you set up, and the thick foam seat means you’ll be able to sit comfortably to wait him out. Pockets galore adorn this pack, 23 in total, starting with a huge game pouch at the rear, water bottle pockets, a Thermacell pocket and various call pockets and zippered compartments out front for your shells, gloves, cellphone, sandwich and everything else you can possibly think of. Available in Mossy Oak Bottomland and Shadow Leaf. MSRP: $250; nomadoutdoor.com.

APEX Mossy Oak Greenleaf Turkey TSS BlendApex Ammunition has partnered with Mossy Oak to release a special offering to turkey hunters this year: a duplex load consisting of No. 9 and No. 10 TSS pellets. Engineered for massive payloads and tight patterns, the Mossy Oak Greenleaf Turkey TSS Blend is available in 3-inch 12-gauge 2¼-ounce loads and 3-inch 20-gauge 1⅝-ounce loads throwing an incredible 1,096 and 774 ultra-dense 18 g/cc density TSS pellets. Shells are handloaded to tight tolerances and use a super-tough, tungsten-grade wad to deliver tight patterns and protect your barrel. MSRP: $49.99-$62.99; apexammunition.com.

ALPS OutdoorZ High Ridge Chair and Dash Panel BlindIf you’re going to be sittin’ for a spell waiting on a strutter, you might as well do it in a chair designed for the task. The low-profile High Ridge Chair from ALPS unfolds into a comfy low-lounger with a call table attached conveniently to the side. Built-in pockets keep calls organized and within easy reach, and a dedicated pocket holds your Thermacell in the perfect spot. Used with or without a chair, the Dash Panel Blind is a lightweight and quick-deploying ground blind for hiding up to two hunters. Three-sided design provides more than full-frontal concealment and sports mesh viewing windows on the side panels and a large adjustable Silent-Trac shooting window out front. Includes ground stakes and a carry bag. MSRP: $79.99 chair; $139.99 blind; alpsoutdoorz.com.

What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

Choosing the best HF Ham Radio for off-grid or grid-down survival communications is challenging. In this blog, we go through key features every HF survival radio should have. We also take a look at 5 of the best low-power, and energy efficient QRP portable ham radios, for off-grid and grid-down preparedness communications.

If you have not already seen my video entitled Grid Down Comms, I would highly recommend it. If you have seen it, consider sharing it to those just getting started in ham radio for preparedness.

Hello Operators. After the devastating earthquake and mobile phone grid failure in Turkey and Syria, an Operator reached out on Twitter, asking about the best HF radio for grid down or off grid survival. In this video and associated blog post, I do my best to highlight the pros and cons of my top HF radio picks, seen on the channel.

Why an HF Survival Strategy?

The preparedness community has been fixated on a single type of survival communications (tactical comms). We can call it tactical comms, fire team comms, squad level communications, … This type of communications is usually done over VHF or UHF on FM or encrypted digital voice, using various types of handheld portable radios.That type of communication is great once your group is all in sync. That is to say, tactical communications with short-range handheld radios only functions, once your crew has rallied. Without that initial mobilization, there is no way to coordinate short-range comms. Before the group musters, a wider coverage area of communications is required, to coordinate the rallying point. That wider range coverage is provided by HF NVIS!

The following video goes through key features every survival radio should have. It also summarizes the pros and cons of each of these radios for grid-down or off-grid survival. For a full review of each radio, check the videos posted later in this blog.

Requirements

Asking “Which is the best radio for survival?” can often leaad to many wrong answers to the question. A better question might be, “Which radio best fits our survival radio requirements?”. If nothing else, this question might lead us to much better answers. The reason is, in a disaster, grid down scenario, operating off grid, resources are not easy to come by. A radio well suited to a POTA activation might be the “worst-case scenario” for a grid-down disaster. Consider this, charging a radio on a normal day is easy and uneventful. Charging or powering a radio in a grid-down scenario, while only carrying what you have on your back, makes things much more difficult. For this reason, we have a set of important requirements, any radio chosen as our HF Survival Radio should have. Let’s go through them.

The following list includes the most important features, any HF Survival Radio should have:

• Low current consumption on RX & efficient TX consumption
• Minimum of 10 watts output, 5 watts is ok
• Band coverage
  • Best case band coverage 160M – 70cm
  • Acceptable band coverage 80M – 10M
  • Bare bones band coverage 80M – 20M
• Built-in audio interface for data comms
• Internal battery & fast charging
• Ability to charge the internal battery, while using and powering the radio
• Daylight readable display.

We can also expand the list to include these key yet often overlooked features.

• Built-in adjustable filters
• DSP, noise reduction, notch filter, …
• Standby mode for display
• Speech compressor built-in
• Easily accessible data port

Rigs mentioned in the video

The following radios are not an exhaustive list. I do not have a (tr)uSDX or Elecraft radios for demonstration. The (tr)uSDX is on the way! I do have the radios which have been demonstrated and reviewed on the channel over the years. This list includes Xiegu, Yaesu, Icom, and Lab599.

XIegu G90

The G90 is the our budget HF radio. Ultimately, the only things missing are the audio interface and external battery. At 20 watts output in a package similar to the Yaesu FT-818, this is an attractive option for someone able to live with the limited band coverage.

Xiegu X6100

The X6100 is portable portable, full featured radio. 10 watts output, built-in audio interface, filters and DSP built-in, … It suffers from slow firmware development from Xiegu, but open-source firmware has recently become available. Internal battery life is good, It can also be charged and powered externally while the radio is in use.

Yaesu FT-818

The Yaesu FT-81x is a 160M – 70cm all-mode portable HF radio, with a small form factor. It is the oldest but best-supported QRP radio by the aftermarket. Discontinued in 2024, but is still available on the used market. Definitely needs the filter fitted (if you can find one). I would suggest an external battery for the 81x. The internal Ni-MH battery pack is heavy and lacks energy density. The Windcamp Li-Ion battery pack with higher energy density than the AA Ni-MH, would be an excellent upgrade. For data it requires a Digirig, and works well with it. If you have the 817nd model, fit the RTC for more reliable data.

Lab599 TX500

The Lab599 TX-500 is the only “rugged” radio available from ham radio manufacturers. Milled from a single block of aluminum for strength and durability. The TX-500 is also comfortable in the rain, snow, and below-freezing operations. Its small modular form factor and ergonomic design are greatly appreciated. It lacks an audio interface but a Digirig can be easily fitted. Battery packs from both Lab599 and DIY599 are incoming and worth-while.The TX-500 is the only solution for those wanting a green radio option, in a pocket portable package.

Icom IC-705

The Icom IC-705 is the only FT-818 alternative with 160M – 70cm band coverage. It also has filters, DSP, notch, .. already fitted making it a full featured radio. The internal GPS is a nice touch, but can only be accessed by USB cable. Still, it allows us to leave a pocket GPS at home. The large screen is easy to read, but precautions must be taken to protect it during transport. Although larger than the other rigs in this post, all of its features means less to buy and carry as added features. This is the best equipped but least rugged out of the radio mentioned in this post. For difficult field work, I would recomment the Peovi full cage wrap and polycarbonate display protector. Having dropped my IC-705 twice without incident, the Peovi cage was an excellent inestment.

Based on many of the comments coming in, many operators still don’t understand my “Survival Radio” philosophy. Asynchronous messaging is at the core of my group’s communications strategy. A radio, tablet, and wire antenna make up the core of this all-mode, data station. Reducing capabilities eg a CW-only station, would reduce size and weight, but also irreconcilably reduce operational capability. Therefore, my station is made up of:

• HF Radio
• Microsoft Surface Tablet
• Wire multi-band antenna

Microsoft Surface

My primary computer for data mode communications is the Microsoft Surface Go 2. Despite its Windows operating system, the Surface Go 2 has performed flawlessly since taking it into use. Much easier to deploy and support than a Raspberry Pi, the Surface Go 2 is the best portable data mode comms investment, made in a very long time.

Digirig Mobile audio interface

For any radio used other than the Icom IC-705 or the Xiegu x6100, I use the Digirig Mobile. There is no point buying any other audio interface for man-portable ops! It is small, lightweight, has audio and cat control, has cross-platform compatibility, and excellent customer support. Our audio interface should not be as large as our radio. for man-portable ops, anything larger than a DigiRig is ridiculous!

Antennas strategy

I recently published a post and video entitled, Portable HF Antenna Strategy for off grid comms”. That video and blog correctly point out how NVIS for regional communication is ignored by most ham radio manufacturers. In fact, NVIS is more of an afterthought, as the majority of ham radio operators spend most of their time on the DX bands. Sadly, the emcomm and preparedness communities are definitely “niche” markets. I was able to find excellent options from Tim Ortiz N9SAB, who makes lightweight multiband antennas for man-portable ops.

Looking for other ways to support the channel?

Support the channel by shopping on ebay, at Battery Hookups or GigaParts.For GigaParts and Battery Hookup, use my callsign for a small discount.Alternatively, drop a little something in the TipJar. It really makes a difference.

• TipJar https://oh8stn.net/TipJar
• GigaParts: https://oh8stn.net/GigaParts
• Shop at Battery Hookup: https://oh8stn.net/batteryhookup
• Shop at eBay (affiliate link) : https://oh8stn.net/ebay
• Buy an N9SAB Antenna https://ebay.us/OVVZcG (eBay affiliate link)

Like with any hobby, shopping for gear can be just as fun and exciting as the activity itself.

This is why lots of people end up with multiple tools, especially if their hobby benefits from upgrading and replacing their old stuff.

This is the case for anglers and fishing enthusiasts, so many also wonder what to do with old fishing rods.

If you’re one of these folks who want to declutter and get rid of your old fishing gear without tossing them to the bin, you’re in luck.

We have just rounded up 5 ways to recycle these stuff, so make sure to read on.

What to Do with Old Fishing Rods

1. Turn them into decor.

If you have old fishing gear on hand, it would be highly likely that you’ll thoroughly enjoy the activity and you wouldn’t mind if others knew about your hobby.

If you’re thinking of introducing some elements of this hobby into your interiors, then you easily use your old fishing rods as decor.

Some mount their vintage rods as is to add some rustic vibe to their space.

Others use them as an accent to wall hangings to add more personality and humor to their decor.

If you’re quite creative, you can also come up with your own way of displaying them around your home.

2. Re-use them for gardening.

If your old rods are still in great shape, you can easily repurpose them around the house. Most folks use them as gardening stakes as their flexibility comes in handy for such an outdoor use.

3. Re-use them as shelter rods.

Another way to repurpose old fishing rods is by turning them into shelter rods.

So if you like to set up your own little shelter when you spend some time outdoors, you don’t have to purchase rods that are specifically made for such purposes anymore.

4. Use for spare parts.

In case you’re the handy type and you would want to have a go at tweaking and tuning the mechanisms of your fishing gear, it would be ideal to hold on to your old fishing rods and reels. This way, you’ll have on hand spare parts for your projects.

Even faulty old rods can still find a lease on new life through this method, so it can be worth a shot.

The only downside is that you might end up hoarding old gear instead of decluttering your collection.

5. Donate them.

Last but definitely not least is donation. There are several organizations that accept old fishing rods, even the ones that don’t work anymore, so they can hand them down to folks who need them but can’t afford them.

These groups often work with the youth, so if you want to inspire younger generations to enjoy this beautiful sport, you should take this option into consideration.

Conclusion

There are lots of great reasons why you should find out what to do with old fishing rods.

Not only will this help you cut down the waste you create through your hobby but it will also let you help others as well.

How to make a trotline. Trotlines are one of the old time-tested methods when you want to catch a lot of catfish in a hurry. When you need to make a “meat haul” or just want to fish around the clock while spending your vacation time doing other things, set out a trotline or two and you will always come home with fish! Here are some simple instructions on how to rig up and set out a trotline.

A lot of folks ask me how to make a trotline. I have tried various methods and styles but I always come back to the simplest version and it just plain works. A trotline is nothing more than a long piece of heavy main line that has short lines or drops tied to it at regular spacing intervals. These drops have one hook each. State rules vary, but in my state (Texas) you can have a maximum of 25 hooks per trotline. Other methods to catch catfish include jug fishing which is very similar to trotlines, but more mobile so to speak. You can read about how to jug fish here.

How you set out the trotline in the water depends on where you are fishing. In a creek or small river you simply tie each end of the mainline to each bank via a stake or a tree limb. The line spans the creek or river and is submerged with small weights along the length to take it underwater. In open water such as a lake you have to tie empty jugs to each end and then anchor each end with heavy weights. then you have the smaller weights in the middle to take the mainline under the surface. The floating jugs help keep the mainline accessible when you get ready to run the line for fish. Trotlines can be dangerous if you are careless. They can drag you out of the boat and underwater in a heartbeat. I recommend always fishing with a partner when fishing trotlines.

To make the trotline I use just a few simple supplies. For the mainline I like to use a heavy 700 lb. test, tarred, braided or twisted nylon line. The heavier the better in my opinion. This line is relatively cheap and strong as well. Texas regulations state that the drop hooks must be a minimum of 3 feet apart. So a 25 hook mainline will need to be at least 100 feet long. I usually just use a standard 120 ft. long mainline to account for tying each end and also to account for the spacing knots to be discussed later.

For convenience I like to remove my drop hooks from the mainline for storage. That way I can ball up the mainline and not have to fight sharp hooks for safety. To keep your drops evenly spaced along the mainline I simply tie two knots about an inch apart at three foot intervals. This is simple and does not require clips and other extra parts.

The drops are simply constructed of a piece of 100 lb. test tarred twisted nylon line cut in 3 ft. lengths and the ends tied together to form a loop. I always cut lines with a good pair of sharp scissors and the burn the ends with a flame to prevent unraveling. I then loop a snap swivel on one end and a trotline clip on the other

.

The hook is a matter of personal choice depending on your bait, but big is always better in my opinion. The trotline clips make it easy and safe to assemble or disassemble the trotline while out on the water. I use them all the time and have never had one come apart yet.

I like to store my trotlines in a 5 gallon bucket. I store the mainline balled up in the bottom of the bucket along with the weights and then hang 25 drops and hooks around the top edge. Everything stays untangled and easy to use in a boat. I always store just one complete trotline in a bucket so I know that I have everything in one place per bucket.

To set out the line just use my diagrams below and bait her up and then sit back and relax. I usually run my lines every 4 or 5 hours apart. I also bait the lines just a dusk and go back at dawn to load my boat up (usually) with a good haul of cats.

You now know how to make a trotline. One thing I would strongly suggest is stopping by our fishing discussion board at TexasRiverData.com and ask any questions you may have and get more trotline instructions and tips. You can read and discuss the latest information there.

Try this method for yourself and stay safe and watch those hooks!