The Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety

The Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety are stated variously by different organizations and are often presented in different order, but the meaning is consistent and universal, including in Africa. If these rules are followed, a firearm-involved accident is highly unlikely.

1. Treat every firearm as if it’s loaded.
2. Control the direction of your firearm’s muzzle.
3. Be sure of your target and what’s beyond your target.
4. Be sure that the barrel and action are clear of obstructions and that only the proper size ammunition is used.
5. It is not uncommon for termites and other insects to discover that a rifle barrel is an ideal place to build a nest. Take a look through your barrel every day!
6. Unload firearms when not in use.
7. Never point a firearm at anything you do not intend to shoot.
8. Never climb a fence or tree or jump a ditch or log with a loaded firearm.
9. Never shoot a bullet at a flat, hard surface or water.
10. Store firearms and ammunition separately.
11. Avoid alcoholic beverages and drugs before and during shooting.

These commandments rely upon basic common sense. Implied throughout is the reliance on control of the direction the barrel is pointed—and the lack of reliance on the firearm’s mechanical safety. These rules don’t change in Africa. Most professional hunters (PHs) will attest that the most dangerous creature in the African bush is an excited visitor with a firearm!

Four Basic Safety Rules

The International Hunter Education Association (IHEA) reduces the Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety to four basic safety rules. They can be remembered by using the acronym ACTT and the statement “ACTT responsibly around firearms.” ACTT stands for:

1. Assume every firearm is loaded. Consider any firearm that you have not just unloaded to be still loaded, and treat it accordingly.
2. Control the muzzle —point guns in a safe direction. Decide what the safest muzzle direction is, and keep your firearm pointed in that direction. Never point a firearm at yourself or others.
3. Trigger finger —keep your finger off the trigger until ready to fire. The natural instinct when picking up a firearm is to put your finger in the trigger guard. Don’t! This could cause an accidental discharge if the firearm is loaded.
4. Target—be sure of your target and beyond. Never point your firearm at something you do not intend to shoot. Make sure you positively identify what you are shooting at and what lies in front of it and beyond it. Do not use telescopic sights as a substitute for binoculars when identifying persons, animals, or objects.

Universal Drills

Basic firearms safety applies no matter where you are, and is often accomplished by certain basic and universal rituals or drills.

• Checking the chamber. Whenever passing a firearm to another person or getting into a vehicle, the normal etiquette or protocol is to check the chamber to make sure it is empty—likewise when receiving a firearm from another person.
• Negotiating an obstacle. Whether crossing a fence, boulder, log, or stream, or entering a stand or blind, it is almost unavoidable that the firearm’s muzzle can be temporarily out of control and a 100% safe direction cannot be guaranteed. There are two ways to handle the situation.
• The buddy system. Two buddies (or you and your PH) take turns holding the firearms and negotiating the obstacle.
• Unload the firearm! The standard procedure for crossing a fence is to unload the firearm and lay it down at the base of the fence with the muzzle pointing in a safe direction. Cross the fence, and retrieve the firearm. While this is the “school solution” for all obstacles, many will be negotiated simply and quickly by slinging the rifle. The point is that the muzzle is temporarily out of control, especially in the case of a slip or fall, so the chamber should first be unloaded.
• Getting into a vehicle. Customs and laws vary. In some areas, it is specifically illegal to have an uncased firearm in a vehicle. Required or not, it is always a good idea to put a firearm in a soft case while in a vehicle—not only to reduce wear and tear, but also to reduce the chance of a scope changing zero. However, whether a case is used or not, when a firearm is in a vehicle (including a boat or aircraft) or in a saddle scabbard on a horse or ATV, the muzzle is temporarily out of control, so the chamber must be clear. The drill for getting into a vehicle or any similar situation is thus simple: Clear the chamber and check it!

Introduction to the African Elephant

Two Varieties of African Elephants

Most authorities maintain there are two varieties of African elephants: the bush elephant found across most of sub-Saharan Africa and the forest elephant of the forest zone. Today, these are often described as two separate species: Loxodonta africana (the bush elephant) and Loxodonta cyclotis (the forest elephant).

• The primary difference is size. Forest elephants are much smaller, with mature males averaging eight feet at the shoulder, while bush elephant bulls range from 10 to 13 feet or more. Weighing up to 15,000 pounds, the bush elephant is the largest land animal on Earth. But the size difference between the bush and forest elephants is significant enough that the Asian elephant, though smaller than the African bush elephant, is actually larger than the forest elephant.
• Based primarily on size, the two African elephant types have long been recognized and considered subspecies. Separate species classification, though recent and not agreed upon, is based on differences in size as well as appearance. For example, bush elephants typically have four toenails on the front feet and three on the rear, while forest elephants typically have five toenails on the front feet and four on the rear.

Common Behaviors

The African elephant is a browsing animal that must have prodigious amounts of both vegetation and water. A large elephant may consume 900 pounds of foliage daily. Elephants are thus highly destructive feeders and, when overpopulated, quickly devastate their habitat. Elephants will normally water daily and must water every other day. With their huge food intake requirements, they may travel many miles daily between good browse and water sources.

Elephants have extremely keen hearing and an uncanny sense of smell. Their eyesight is not on par with their other senses. But it’s unclear if they really can’t see particularly well or if they simply place greater reliance on their two stronger senses.

Elephants are social animals with a generally matriarchal society. The primary unit is customarily about 10 females, mostly related, led by an older female. Depending on available food and water, family groups may congregate into much larger herds, sometimes into the hundreds, but such gatherings are temporary.

Cows and Bulls

Although elephants are very slow breeders, normal population increase will be about 5% per year. Cows (females) can reproduce at about 10 to 12 years old, with single calves born after a 22-month gestational period. Although sexually mature earlier, bulls (males) are usually neither big enough nor strong enough to compete for mating rights until their mid-20s. By this time, bulls are nearly twice as heavy as females of the same age, but elephants continue to grow slowly throughout their lives until they reach old age.

As young bulls reach puberty, they are ejected from the family group. Cows may come into estrus at any time of the year, at which time bulls will join the group for breeding—with bulls fighting viciously for mating rights.

Cows are exceptionally good and protective mothers and are generally far more aggressive than bulls. However, breeding bulls experience an exaggerated level of testosterone, accompanied by facial gland and penis secretions (the former can be seen while the latter is found in tracks). The increased testosterone causes extreme aggression, a state called musth. Cows with young are always extremely dangerous to approach, but a bull in musth is probably the most dangerous.

Teeth and Tusks

Life expectancy depends primarily on tooth wear. Elephants have four molars, with new molars growing and moving forward replace the front pair as they wear. An elephant will replace its molars four to six times, but when the last set wears out, slow starvation is certain. Average life expectancy in the wild is about 50 years. But in areas with softer soil (such as montane and forest environments), elephants can live to 70 and more.

The tusks are actually incisors that continue to grow throughout an elephant’s life. Although tuskless African elephants occur in both sexes, both males and females typically grow tusks, with cow ivory much smaller and thinner than bull ivory. In the old days, it was said that an elephant may grow a pound of ivory per year, but this is not true. A bull in his 30s—in his prime—may grow several pounds of ivory per year, with growth slowing as he begins to age. To a degree, tusk size is somewhat dependent on body size, but genetics and minerals are probably much more important. While the trunk is the primary instrument in stripping leaves, elephants use their tusks for digging, for breaking branches, and for fighting. So, it isn’t unusual for an elephant to break one or both tusks during its long life.

Threats to African Elephant

Primary threats to the elephant are the illegal ivory trade and loss of habitat to human expansion. In the 1970s and 1980s, commercial poaching reached a peak, and elephant populations fell precipitously in much of Africa. In 1989, the international body Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) enacted a near-worldwide ban on ivory trade that blocked many markets and allowed significant recovery for 20 years.

Unfortunately, since 2009, a new wave of poaching has swept much of Africa. Total numbers continent-wide are uncertain and hotly disputed, but it must be accepted that the African elephant is again in crisis. That said, Africa is a big continent. There are several countries, primarily in southern Africa, where elephants have been protected and are being managed well.

Management

Since 1990, CITES has allowed exemptions for sport-hunted ivory for personal use, by quota, from countries that have demonstrated that limited hunting is beneficial to their elephant population. Namibia and South Africa have limited habitat for elephants, with current populations of a few ten thousand each at or near carrying capacity. Zimbabwe is estimated to have a minimum of 70,000 elephants, far above carrying capacity. These countries continue elephant hunting as part of their management, as do Cameroon, Mozambique, Tanzania, and Zambia, all with approval of CITES.

Africa’s largest elephant population is in Botswana, which has 250,000 by recent (2015) survey. Although this number is considered far above the carrying capacity, Botswana does not currently allow elephant hunting.

For American hunters, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service does not precisely echo CITES in allowing importation of legally sport-hunted ivory. In 2017, import permits were being issued for Namibia and South Africa, with a moratorium on ivory importation from Tanzania and Zimbabwe (permitting for Zimbabwe ivory appears likely to resume in the near future).

Despite increasing pressure from illegal poaching, African countries that continue to hunt elephants consider regulated hunting an important tool because (1) placing value on elephants—through direct fees and local employment—deters poaching; (2) license and permit fees fund anti-poaching efforts; (3) legal safaris in the field deter illegal activities; and (4) with elephants being highly intelligent animals, legal hunting acts as a deterrent against human/elephant conflict (crop-raiding). In areas where elephants are overpopulated, the management imperative for hunting is as strong as for any species in the world.

Equipment for African Elephant Hunting

Legal Requirements

Many African countries have minimum caliber requirements for dangerous game, and hey, if they do, the elephant is always considered dangerous game. Both the legal minimum and common sense say that a .375 is the minimum caliber for elephant. Now, in many countries, this is not stated as .375. It’s stated as the European equivalent, the 9.3mm or .366 caliber, which is very, very minimal for elephant.

Use of handguns and archery tackle is much more restrictive, specifically illegal in many areas but allowed in some. Now whether you prefer the European 9.3mm or the more common .375, or larger and more powerful cartridge, or a big handgun or archery tackle, keep in mind that whether enacted into law or not, minimum standards exist because of conventional wisdom developed over time and based on experience, which is both good and bad.

An elephant bull can be 10 times larger than the average buffalo. So, a .375 is a good sound, sensible minimum. And if the law allows and you choose to deviate from that and use a handgun or archery tackle or black powder, make sure it’s legal in the area where you’re hunting and discuss it with your PH.

Cartridges for Elephant Hunting

The .375 H&H, introduced clear back in 1912, is probably the baseline for hunting elephant. It’s going to be within the legal minimum in all countries, and it’s a cartridge of relatively low recoil that most people can learn to handle. But keep in mind with elephants, shot placement is always more important than raw power. Now faster .375s are going to give you a little bit more penetration and certainly deliver more energy. But keep in mind that as you go up the velocity scale, and with the .375s, recoil goes up.

Now the 9.3s are the European equivalent. Cartridges like the .370 Sako Magnum, also called 9.3x66mm, and the old 9.3x64mm Brenneke, are essentially the equal of the .375. If a 9.3 is legal where you’re hunting, you’re going to do just fine with them.

Low recoil options are actually relatively limited. The old 9.3x62mm and 9.3x74R in double rifles is very, very minimally adequate for elephant. It may be legal in areas where 9.3s are allowed, but you’re pushing the limit. And that’s really as low as you should ever consider going for elephant hunting today.

The several .416s and cartridges like the .450/.400, and .404 Jeffery are extremely effective on elephant. In fact, with higher velocity, many of them will actually penetrate better than the big bores. They’re going to be a lot more effective than the .375 for elephant. But you have to keep in mind that they’re not as versatile for other game and they do produce more recoil.

The true big bores are the traditional choices for hunting elephant. Now with their higher velocity, the .40s may penetrate better, but the big bores are going to deliver a heavier blow. Obviously, as you increase in power, then recoil goes up. So, it’s really important to not use more gun than you can handle comfortably, but there is no such thing as too much gun for elephant. Your professional hunter will almost certainly be armed with a big bore to back you up, if necessary.

Rifles for Elephant Hunting

The bolt action is by far the most common choice for visiting hunters. And there’s bolt actions and suitable calibers at a wide variety of price ranges. This is certainly the least expensive option, and it’s going to be effective. However, if you choose a bolt action, you have to make absolutely certain that all aspects of feeding and functioning are totally reliable. And in your practice sessions, make sure that you practice working that bolt so that you can get off follow-up shots quickly, if you need to.

The double rifle is the preference of many professional hunters because of the instantaneous availability of that second shot, and hey, that applies to visiting hunters as well. Elephant hunting is probably the only situation where the double rifle really is superior to the bolt action simply because of that instantaneous and reliable second shot.

The drawbacks to the double rifle are greatly increased cost and reduced versatility. But in this most specialized of all hunts, versatility shouldn’t be a major consideration. Several modern single shots are chambered for cartridges that are absolutely adequate for elephant. But a single shot isn’t recommended simply because of the frequent requirement for a quick backup shot.

Now as a visiting hunter, you’re not going to be hunting alone, so if you choose a single shot, that’s fine. Your professional hunter is going to be there, but he may well have to back you up simply because no human being can load a single shot fast enough when things go wrong with elephant.

No other action types, whether slide action, semi-auto or lever action, have been factory chambered for cartridges adequate for elephant. Custom work is possible, but you don’t see these in elephant hunting very often.

Bullets for Elephant Hunting

Hey, this is easy, solids only. Non-expanding or solid bullets are designed for deepest penetration on the largest game. And these are the bullets you absolutely have to use. Elephant hunting is purely a game of shot placement and then penetration of the bullet.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside an elephant skull.

Professional Hunter: Craig, there’s no way that any form of soft point, even a premium soft, would enter the brain. It’s just so much bone to travel through that a soft point would slow down and not make the brain.

The two primary choices today are the homogeneous-alloy or all-copper bullet—the solid, solid—and then the traditional jacketed bullet that has a lead core but it’s jacketed with a coating of mild steel, what we call steel-jacketed solids. Both are extremely good. There really aren’t any bad solids on the market today; it’s obviously a very small market. And these are bullets that you trust your life to, and really, all the solids on the market today are very good.

You should use the one that gives you the most confidence. The only limitation is that the homogeneous-alloy bullets have a slightly different pressure curve, may not be a good idea to use them in older double rifles with thin barrel walls. But again, just a matter of confidence. There aren’t any bad solids, but for elephant hunting, you’ve got to choose a solid.

Legal Requirements

Most African countries (but not all) have established legal minimums for “dangerous game,” which always includes elephant. If in doubt, ask your professional hunter (PH)! Although we often state that the .375 is the legal minimum, this is not always true.

In several countries, the actual minimum is the European equivalent, which is 9.3mm (.366-inch). Some countries do not have established legal minimum standards, and in some countries, the rules vary. Zimbabwe, uniquely, has a minimum energy standard, which includes the 9.3x62mm Mauser. But this rule is only applicable on government land and not on private land.

Use of handguns and archery tackle is more restrictive, specifically illegal in many areas but allowed in some. Whether you prefer the European 9.3mm, the more common .375, a larger and more powerful cartridge, a big handgun, or an archery tackle—keep in mind that, whether enacted into law or not, minimum standards exist because of conventional wisdom developed over time and based on experience—both good and bad.

An elephant bull can be 10 times larger than the average buffalo! Regardless of law or convention, a .375-caliber rifle is the recommended minimum for elephant. If you wish to deviate from this and local law allows it, discuss this with your PH, and make certain that he or she is willing and confident to conduct a hunt under such circumstances.

Cartridges for Elephant Hunting

9.3s and .375s. The baseline for elephant hunting is probably the .375 H&H, introduced in 1912. The .375 H&H is adequate for elephant under most conditions and has the advantage of fairly moderate recoil that most shooters can learn to handle. In any discussion of hunting elephant, shot placement is far more important than raw power.

Faster .375s, such as the .375 Weatherby Magnum and Remington Ultra Mag, deliver more energy, but they also deliver more recoil. The .375 Ruger, though slightly faster than the .375 H&H, is a more compact cartridge, chambered in several excellent but inexpensive rifles.

9.3mms, such as the .370 Sako Magnum and 9.3×64, are essentially ballistically identical to the .375 H&H, but they may not be legal if the stated minimum is .375 caliber. Lower-recoil options are few. Even in areas where 9.3s are legal, the 9.3x62mm Mauser and 9.3x74R (for double rifles) should be considered very marginal, especially for hunting larger-bodied bulls.

.40s and .416s. The several .416s and cartridges such as the .450/.400 for double rifles and the .404 Jeffery are much more effective on elephant than the .375s. Shot placement remains critical, but the .375 and equivalent should be considered a bare-bones minimum, with the .40-caliber cartridges as far better choices. Their disadvantages are that they are not as versatile for other game and that they produce more recoil. But they are very good choices for elephant.

Big bores (.450 and larger). The true big bores are the most traditional choices and are effective on elephant. Because of higher velocity, the .40-caliber cartridges penetrate at least as well, but the big bores deliver a heavier blow. Recoil tends to increase along with caliber, so it’s important to avoid using larger calibers than you are comfortable shooting. But there is no such thing as “too much gun” on elephant. The largest calibers are highly specialized, but so is elephant hunting! Your PH will almost certainly be armed with a big bore.

Rifles for Elephant Hunting

Bolt actions. A bolt-action rifle is by far the most common choice for the visiting hunter. There are numerous options in various price ranges chambered to suitable cartridges. But if a bolt action is chosen, its user must make certain all aspects of feeding and functioning are totally reliable. In practice sessions, he or she should concentrate on learning to work the bolt quickly for follow-up shots.

Double rifles. The double-barreled rifle is often the PH’s choice because of the instantaneous availability of a second shot. In elephant hunting, this applies to the visiting hunter as well: Elephant hunting is one of very few situations where the double rifle is clearly superior to the bolt action—purely because of that instant availability of a second shot. The double rifle’s drawbacks are higher cost and reduced versatility, but in this most specialized of all hunts, versatility should not be a consideration.

Single shots. Several modern single shots are chambered in suitable cartridges for elephant. Because of the frequent requirement for a fast second shot, single shots are not recommended for elephant hunting. But they can be used with the understanding that the visiting hunter will not be alone and may have to rely on the PH for necessary backup.

Other action types. No other action types (slide action, semi-automatic, lever action) have been factory chambered for cartridges adequate for elephant, although custom work is possible.

Bullets for Elephant Hunting

Solids only! Non-expanding solid bullets are designed for the deepest penetration on the largest game. Only high-quality non-expanding bullets are suitable for elephant. Choices usually fall between homogeneous copper alloy bullets and traditional lead-core bullets jacketed with mild steel overlain with copper (steel-jacketed solids). Both bullet types are effective.

Because of their highly specialized and relatively limited use, there are no “bad” solids in production today. However, homogeneous-alloy solids have a different pressure curve, so they are not recommended for older double rifles with thin barrel walls. Because of distance and size of target, extreme accuracy is not a requirement. The primary criterion in the choice is the bullet that gives you the most confidence.

Scopes and Sights for Elephant Hunting

Optical or open?Elephant hunting is one of the few situations in the entire hunting world where iron sights are superior to telescopic sights. Here are reasons why iron sights are superior: Ranges are very close and the target is very large, but proper shot placement within that large target remains essential. The use of a magnifying sight runs the risk of seeing nothing but a wall of gray at very close range. Also, telescopic sights tend to create tunnel vision. The greatest danger in elephant hunting may not be from the target elephant but from unseen elephants nearby, so peripheral vision is important.

Ideal iron sights for elephant.Either aperture or traditional open sights may be used, but it’s important that they be extremely sturdy. Do not assume that iron sights are automatically stronger than optical sights. Also, if iron sights are chosen, do not assume that you can simply pick up the rifle and use them well enough. Practice is required!

Ideal scopes for elephant.Because of familiarity with scopes or visual acuity, scopes can be used if there are issues that preclude use of iron sights. But in elephant hunting, magnification is dangerous and too much magnification can be deadly. Low-range variables with a low setting of 1X (meaning no magnification) are ideal, and a low setting of 2X is probably the maximum that should be considered. Lighted reticles greatly speed aiming and assist in shot placement.

Optical options.Traditional open sights (notch or V rear, bead or blade front) require the eye to focus in three focal planes: rear sight, front sight, and target. This becomes increasingly difficult as range increases and greater precision is required. Also, open sights become more difficult for most people as middle age approaches and the eye becomes less flexible. The aperture, or peep, sight is an iron sight, but it is actually an optical sight in that the eye naturally centers the front sight in the aperture or circular opening of the rear sight. Thus, aperture sights require the eye to focus in just two focal planes: front sight and target. Most shooters can effectively use aperture sights for some time after open sights are completely “fuzzed out.” A disadvantage is that, in low light, all iron sights—open and aperture—quickly become hard to see. But an aperture sight is a valid option on an elephant rifle.

• Another extremely sound option is the reflex or red-dot sight. This is a non-magnifying sight that projects or reflects a red dot as the aiming point. Actual dots may be yellow, green, or blue. But on elephant, a red dot is probably the most visible. The reflex sight, like a scope, allows the eye to operate in one focal plane. As with a scope reticle, the eye simply superimposes the dot on the aiming point. All iron sights and reflex sights encourage shooting with both eyes open, thus maintaining the peripheral vision that can be critical in elephant hunting.

Scope mounts.While any mechanical device can fail, the scope mount is probably the weakest link. Recoil is the great enemy to both scopes and mounts, so strong and rugged mounts must be chosen and must be assembled properly in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. Modern detachable mounts are adequately strong. But even if iron sights are present on the rifle, make sure you have another option in case there is scope failure or a need to go into extremely thick cover. That said, it has been proven that low-powered scopes and reflex sights are faster to use than any iron sights, even at very close range. In elephant hunting, shooting distances are usually very close. This is a situation where a hunter might consider removing a scope in favor of iron sights before concluding a stalk but only if the alternate sights are properly zeroed and he or she is completely familiar with them.

Quality.Both rifles and scopes take serious beatings in Africa, constantly bouncing over rough roads. Scopes should be rugged, and the best way to ensure that is to use one of the many high-quality brands and to avoid the most inexpensive scopes.

Protection.Dust is a major issue in Africa. Bring a scope cover or lens caps. Leave it on your scope in the vehicle, and remove it when you commence a stalk. Using a soft gun case in vehicles will also save wear and tear on the scope as well as the rifle.

Handguns, Muzzleloaders, and Archery Tackle

Handguns, muzzleloaders, and archery tackle are legal in some areas. Elephants have been taken by the most imaginable alternative methods. Equipment requirements for these methods of take are highly specialized. (Remember that an elephant may be 10 times the size of a buffalo bull!) If alternative methods are desired, this must be discussed with and cleared by your outfitter and/or PH, preferably a person who has previous experience with the type of method you wish to use.

Hunting success is never assured, but the choice of alternative methods of take renders success more difficult. This is not a problem for dedicated handgun, muzzleloader, and archery hunters, but it must be understood. Also, the PH is morally and legally responsible for the safety of the entire party. If the PH deems it essential to shoot in order to prevent the escape of a wounded animal and avoid a dangerous follow-up, then that’s a judgment call he or she must be allowed to make. Obviously, when equipment of marginal power and penetration are used, it is more likely that the PH will be required to fire backup shots.

The Professional Hunter’s Greatest Concern

While we all think about Africa’s dangerous animals and snakes, most professional hunters (PHs) and guides worldwide worry most about strangers with firearms. Statistically, nearly as many PHs and trackers are injured by accidental gunshot wounds as by dangerous animals.

Range Day

One of the first events on any safari or guided hunt is to go “check zero.” Some PHs are astute “gun guys,” but many are not. Either way, they will endeavor to get you as close to the animals they hunt as circumstances (terrain, vegetation, etc.) allow. Long-range shooting on elephants is out of the question, but the shot may be standing unsupported at close range or on shooting sticks at very medium range. PHs have a vested interest in making certain your firearms have survived the journey and are reasonably in zero, but they probably don’t care as much as you do that your zero is “perfect.” At the ranges elephants are taken, an inch or two off at 100 yards makes very little difference. Zero does need to be checked, but the purpose of that range day is actually threefold. The PH and his or her team—including the trackers—want not only to ensure that the rifle hasn’t shifted during travel but also to evaluate your shooting ability and your gun handling safety.

Every day is “qual day.” In the U.S. military, an oft-used saying is “every day is qualification or ‘qual’ day.” Range day is like qualification day, and it’s not an exam you cram for. Basic gun handling safety must be practiced all the time, and it matters to your safari. The way you shoot and handle your firearm on range day has much to do with the way your PH and his or her team will conduct the safari—how they will try to set up your shots, what shots they will recommend (or in fact allow) you to take, and how much time they will have to devote to watching your gun handling when they should instead be focused on finding game and orchestrating stalks. Safe gun handling starts at home on your range, but it continues on range day and must be constant throughout.

Shooting Off of Sticks

In African hunting, three-legged shooting sticks are almost universal. There are several reasons for this.

• They get you up off the ground. Low vegetation often precludes shooting positions commonly used elsewhere (such as prone, sitting, and kneeling) because the animal is often obscured.
• Even when a low position is possible, everything in Africa has thorns, and biting ants are a common pest in many areas. Shooting standing off sticks solves the problem.
• Sticks are ideal in the African situation. The lead tracker often carries them. During a deliberate stalk, the PH usually takes the sticks and the lead. But if an animal is suddenly spotted or encountered within shooting range, the lead tracker will customarily set up the sticks and fade to one side. The PH comes up to the other side to evaluate the animal. Your job as the hunter is to step forward, avoiding sudden movements, get the rifle on the sticks, and be prepared to shoot if the PH gives the go-ahead.

Shooting Sticks Technique

Shooting sticks require practice! It takes a bit of work to become comfortable and familiar with shooting sticks. The two primary secrets are:

• Learn the right height for you!Usually, it’s about the level of the top shirt button, so you can lean slightly forward into the sticks.
• Placement of your supporting hand.Never rest the barrel directly on the junction of the sticks (or anything else). The ideal is to grasp both the fore-end of your rifle and the sticks, tying them together. Not everyone has large enough hands to do this, so you have to find what works for you. This is another exam you can’t cram for! Don’t let range day be the first time you’ve ever used sticks. Make your own or get a commercial set, and practice with it on your own range. Then you can not only demonstrate your ability but also show your PH and your trackers exactly how you like the sticks set up.

Practice does make perfect! Sticks are not a perfect solution; slight horizontal wobble is almost unavoidable. However, with practice, most shooters can become adequately steady for perhaps 150-yard shots, certainly covering almost all shots at elephants.

Steady and Steadier

With shots at elephants, the target is large and the range is close. The shot must be placed well, but speed is generally more important than precision. Practice on your range until you can consistently hit a pie plate-sized target off sticks at 50 yards and unsupported standing at 25 yards. That should prepare you for most shots at elephants.

Loaded or Unloaded?

As in all things, listen to your PH, and follow his or her directions! Typically, the rifle will be carried with cartridges in the magazine but with the chamber unloaded until the PH directs. The PH will walk ahead of you, and in areas where dangerous game might be present, his or her rifle will usually be fully loaded and ready. Yours doesn’t need to be until you are “action imminent.” There is very little imminent danger while tracking elephant. So, there is usually no reason for the chamber to be loaded until an actual stalk begins.

The basic rule is that the chamber should not be loaded unless you can absolutely control the direction of the muzzle. This means that if you are carrying the rifle slung over your shoulder, the chamber should be clear. In areas where dangerous game is present, most PHs don’t use rifle slings; they carry their rifles in their hands, and the rifles are always ready.

Most sport hunters do use slings, and that’s fine. But a fully loaded rifle should not be slung because it is impossible to control the muzzle in the case of a slip or fall, and many mechanical safeties can be brushed off by clothing while a rifle is slung. If in doubt, never hesitate to ask your PH if you should chamber a round.

Mechanical Safeties

The safety on your rifle is not a substitute for safe gun handling but serves as a backup for momentary lapses. Even if you are carrying your rifle at “port arms” ready, you may briefly lose control of the muzzle direction if you slip or stumble. But when glassing and tracking, whether carrying the rifle casually or slung, the muzzle is not under tight control, so the chamber should be clear.

Whether loaded or unloaded, the muzzle must be pointed in a safe direction. When the chamber is loaded, check the mechanical safety constantly to make sure it is engaged. African hunting is especially problematic for gun handling safety because it is normal for you, your PH, and your trackers to walk single file, and you as the hunter will be well back in the line. No matter how you carry your rifle and how often you check your safety, focus on keeping the muzzle in a safe direction: UP, DOWN, or SIDEWAYS.

The “African Carry”

As so often seen in photos and on television, it is very common in Africa to carry the rifle with the action balanced over one shoulder, butt to the rear, muzzle forward and grasped and controlled by one hand. This is not in itself unsafe, as the hand controls the direction of the muzzle.

In order to understand the “African carry,” it’s useful to know where it comes from. In the old days when trackers also commonly served as “gunbearers,” the normal situation was for the gunbearer to walk ahead—rifle balanced on one shoulder, muzzle forward, butt to the rear. When game was encountered, the hunter needed only to reach forward, grasp the pistolgrip, and take the rifle, quickly and efficiently.

Today, almost all African hunters—professional and amateur—carry their own rifles. The “African carry” persists because few PHs use slings, and the muzzle-forward carry is very comfortable (especially with heavy double rifles, with flat action bottoms and broad muzzles to grasp). The obvious problem is the muzzle points forward. Thus, when walking in line, it is almost inevitable that the person carrying rifle will “sweep” the person walking ahead. If the rifle is unloaded, this is merely unsafe and a display of terrible manners. If the rifle is loaded, the “African carry” is potentially deadly. It is not recommended, but it is a very comfortable way to carry a rifle, especially on long, hot tracking hunts. If employed, it is essential to concentrate constantly on muzzle control. Keep the barrel offset well to the side and away from the people walking ahead.

Evaluating the Elephant

Listen to your PH. Hey, that’s the first and cardinal rule in all African hunting, and it’s equally important with elephant hunting. Hey, it’s your animal, but you must never shoot until the PH gives the go-ahead, and you have to be absolutely certain that you and your professional hunter are looking at the same animal.

Professional Hunter: Hit him.

A hunter fires her rifle at an elephant.

Professional Hunter: Again.

The professional hunter and hunter fire follow-up shots at the elephant.

Judging Elephants

This is your PH’s job, not yours.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington discuss an elephant they have just observed.

Professional Hunter: Brilliant.

Craig Boddington:

Professional Hunter: Beautiful elephant.

Craig Boddington:

Professional Hunter: The guy’s better than the one yesterday.

Craig Boddington: Yes.

Professional Hunter: He’s in the middle 60s.

Craig Boddington:Yes.

Professional Hunter: You can see how thick he is.

Craig Boddington: Oh, it’s beautiful.

Professional Hunter: That elephant will probably have about 29 to 30 inches in his head. He’s got a monster head.

Craig Boddington: Huge.

Professional Hunter: Absolutely monster head.

Craig Boddington: Yeah.

With experience, PHs can become pretty good at it, but judging the weight of ivory is probably the most difficult and frustrating trophy judgment in the world. This is because a major portion of the tusk is concealed within the skull, and the actual weight depends a lot on the size of the nerve.

Hunters discuss an elephant near a waterhole.

Hunter 1: Oh, lovely, thick ivory.

Hunter 2: Oh, he’s beautiful.

Hunter 1: What a great elephant.

Hunter 2: That is a great elephant.

Some elephants have larger nerve cavities than others. Your PH will do the best job possible of calling the ivory, but the ultimate decision is up to you.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington each hold up an elephant tusk.

Professional Hunter: Generally, what you look at is the girth of the ivory at the lip, OK? And let’s say, for instance, this ivory is 15 inches at the lip. We then take an assessment of what is actually showing, and in this case, there might be 3 feet of ivory showing. So, you multiply the 3 by the 15, that will give you 45 pounds. Now, that would be if the ivory was solid. We then have the nerve. And the nerve can vary as much as from 5 to 10% of weight lost to the nerve, depending on the age of the elephant.

This elephant is a sort of middle-aged elephant, and you would probably be looking at 7%, maybe 8%, even up to 10%. So, if you take that 45 pounds, less 10%, it would come to around about 40 pounds, 41, 42 pounds, which is exactly what this elephant is.

Craig Boddington That’s exactly what he is.

Professional Hunter: And that’s pretty much how we assess the weight of tusk in the elephant.

With elephant hunting today, there may be specific requirements. In some cases, there are legal minimums, which may be expressed as either tusk length or weight. And in some areas, there are legal maximums enforced to protect genetics for large tusks. Today, with elephant hunting an important management tool in overpopulated areas, there are also trophy hunts in reverse, where tuskless elephants, non-trophy bulls, and even females may be targeted.

Regardless of what type of elephant you’re looking for or have on license, the actual hunt’s much the same because you and your PH are going to have to get very close to make sure the chosen animal meets the requirements.

Trophy Quality

One of the best and most current references is Safari Club International’s record book, available online at scirecordbook.org. With elephants, its primary value is its currency, showing where record-class elephants are being taken today. With elephants, it’s extremely important to research the area you plan to hunt and establish reasonable goals. Monster tuskers can appear almost anywhere, but at the cost of an elephant safari today, it may be foolish to pass a bull that’s average and acceptable for the area and continue looking for an animal that may not exist. Once again, listen to your PH.

Craig Boddington fires his rifle at an elephant.

Professional Hunter: Look at that.

Craig Boddington: Oh, that’s beautiful.

Professional Hunter: He’s 20 inches at the lip.

Craig Boddington: Oh my god. That’s beautiful. Fantastic.

Professional Hunter: He’s absolutely beautiful.

Craig Boddington: Fantastic.

Hunters: Whoa. Whoa.

Professional Hunter: Now, that other tusk is just—

Craig Boddington: The other tusk is unbelievable, absolutely. It’s heavier than I thought, heavier than you thought.

Professional Hunter: That left tusk is going to hit 70.

Measuring

Although the record books are excellent references, try to avoid record book fever. Elephants are measured and enter the record book based on tusk weight. However, your professional hunter is generally going to evaluate the elephant based on tusk length, meaning the length of the exposed tusk at the lip, understanding that a whole lot of that tusk lies buried deep in the skull.

Once you’ve taken your elephant, if possible, you should get accurate tusk weights before you leave camp, but at a minimum, take measurements. Measure the total length of the tusk. Measure from the lip to the tip, and then get the circumference at the widest point. You should record those just for future reference.

Listen to Your Professional Hunter

Listening to your professional hunter (PH) is the first and most cardinal rule of African hunting, and it is even more important with all dangerous game. It is essential that you never shoot until your PH gives the go-ahead. But even when he or she does, it’s still your shot and your animal. So, don’t take a shot unless you are comfortable, steady, confident, and certain that you and your PH are looking at the same animal.

Judging Elephants

This is your PH’s job, not yours. With experience, PHs can become pretty good at it, but judging the weight of ivory is probably the most difficult and frustrating trophy judgment in the world. This is because a major portion of the tusk is concealed within the skull and the actual weight depends a lot on the size of the nerve; some elephants have larger nerve cavities than others. Your PH will do the best job possible of “calling the ivory,” but ultimate decision is up to you.

With elephant hunting today, there may be specific requirements. In some cases, there are legal minimums (which may be expressed as either tusk length or weight). And in some areas, there are legal maximums that are enforced to protect genetics for large tusks. Today, with elephant hunting being an important management tool in overpopulated areas, there are “trophy hunts in reverse.” These hunts may target tuskless elephants, non-trophy bulls, and even females. Regardless of what type of elephant you are looking for or have “on license,” the actual hunt is much the same—because you and your PH are going to have to get very close to make sure the chosen animal meets the requirements.

Trophy Quality

One of the best and most complete references is Safari Club International’s record book, available online (www.scirecordbook.org). With elephants, the primary value is its currency, showing where “record class” elephants are being taken today. With elephants, it is extremely important to research the area you plan to hunt and to establish reasonable goals. Monster tuskers can appear almost anywhere. But at the cost of an elephant safari today, it may be foolish to pass a bull that is average and acceptable for the area and to continue looking for an animal that may not exist. Listen to your PH!

Measuring

Although record books are excellent references, try to avoid “record book fever.” Elephant trophies go into the record books based on tusk weight. However, most PHs judge ivory by estimating the length of the tusk showing beyond the lip and the circumference of the tusk. If possible, you should get accurate tusk weights before you leave camp. But for future reference, it’s a good idea to take measurements: outside the lip, total length, and circumference at the lip.

In the Group

Lone elephant bulls are frequently encountered, but bachelor groups of three to six are probably most common. When hunting bulls, most PHs avoid cow herds because of the danger. But since elephants may breed throughout the year, a mature bull could be found in a herd at any time. When hunting cow elephants, it is necessary to penetrate the herds to make sure a chosen animal doesn’t have a calf at heel.

It is essential to be absolutely certain you are focusing on the same animal as your PH. Shooting the wrong elephant has been done, and it is a horrible mistake! The first and cardinal rule applies: Listen to your PH. It is essential that you never shoot until your PH gives the go-ahead. But even when he or she does, it’s still your shot and your elephant. So, don’t take the shot unless you are comfortable, steady, confident, and certain you and your PH are looking at the same animal.

Stages of Elephant Hunting—Locating Elephants and the Approach

Most elephant hunts have four phases: locating elephants, the approach, selecting the animal, and taking the shot.

Locating Elephants: Tracking

Elephants are usually located by tracking or glassing. Tracking elephants is one of the most traditional and interesting of all African hunts. And it’s pure magic to watch the African trackers do their work.

Despite their great weight, elephants are actually more difficult to track than buffalo because their feet have pads rather than hooves. So, elephant tracking is advanced tracking that only the most skilled trackers can do well. It starts with a search for fresh tracks, which can mean days of covering ground, usually done by a combination of driving and walking. Fresh tracks will often be found crossing a road or track. And water sources are often critical.

It may take a short time on the track, but by examining tracks, dung, and signs of feeding, African trackers can determine the age of tracks. This is critical information, but it depends on the time of day. Early in the morning, it’s perfectly acceptable to follow tracks made during the night, even 12 hours earlier.

A hunter investigates an elephant track.

Craig Boddington: An elephant hunt always starts with finding a good track. We’ve got a good one here. He’s worn in the back. It’s fresh. It’s from this morning. It’s about 7 o’clock right now, just the perfect time to find an elephant track.

Ivan is going to measure it. But we don’t really need to measure this track. We know that this is an older bull because he’s worn. And this is one we’re going to follow.

Elephants can cover many miles in a day, but usually, alternately feed and rest during the night. In the early morning, they’ll usually start to move toward heavy cover, where they’ll rest through the heat of the day. Knowledge of the area is, thus, important to evaluating the feasibility of following tracks, but an elephant will go where it goes. So, one never knows at the outset where and how far a track might lead.

Age of a track is, thus, extremely critical in evaluating whether or not to follow, but so is the track itself. Since mature bulls are nearly twice the size of cows, it’s very easy to determine bull tracks. Size of elephants vary regionally. So, you’re looking for a large track for the area you’re hunting. There are also indicators of age that fine soil will offer, such as depth of corrugations and sole wear.

The professional hunter points at an elephant track.

Professional Hunter: You see no smoothness on the track.

Craig Boddington: No, none whatsoever.

Professional Hunter: None whatsoever. And if you look here, if you look at the big calluses, you can see there’s no smoothness.

Craig Boddington: No smoothness. None whatsoever.

Professional Hunter: So, the baby skin is disappearing. And it’s getting more mature. And then the calluses get even bigger and bigger and bigger. And it just shows you the size of the body. And if you follow a track like that, probably you will end up with mature bull. So, the moment there’s any smoothness, you just walk away from it. It’s going to take you for a long walk.

None of these indicators say anything about size of tusks. The only way to determine size of tusks is track up the elephant and take a look.

Locating Elephants: Glassing

In more open or hilly country, elephants are often spotted simply by glassing. This is common in Namibia. It’s common in Botswana. It’s also common in hilly country in Zimbabwe.

If elephants are spotted at a distance then, you may have to circle the wind, where you may be able to make a direct approach. But the approach begins once elephants are spotted.

The Approach

The elephant hunt really starts almost at the end of the track. This may mean the sign is very fresh. Experienced PHs and trackers develop almost a sixth sense as to when elephants are near. Because of timing and the elephant’s habit of seeking thick cover at midday, auditory clues are actually the most likely—a stick breaking as elephants feed, a trumpet from a paranoid cow, the soft belly rumbling of undisturbed elephants, or the much softer swishing sound of the great ears fanning.

Following tracks is fairly straightforward. Although if the wind is unfavorable, experienced trackers will often deliberately leave the tracks and try to circle the wind. But now, with elephants nearby, it’s absolutely essential to get the wind right.

Most trackers carry ash bags, cloth sacks filled with fine ash, that when shaken will show wind direction. This is usually the time to load the chamber of your rifle. Don’t hesitate to ask your PH if you should load up. But make sure your safety is engaged, and pay close attention to keeping your muzzle in a safe direction.

From this point, movement will be much slower and has to be as quiet as possible. Depending on the cover, you may be able to walk upright or you may need to crouch. Crawling or butt scooting is possible, but rare with elephants.

Follow your PH’s lead, and concentrate on stepping as quietly as possible.

How to Hunt African Elephant

Most elephant hunts have four phases: locating elephants, the approach, selecting the elephant, and taking the shot. Depending on the circumstances, elephants are generally located by tracking or glassing.

Hunting Techniques for Locating Elephant

Tracking

Tracking elephants is one of the most traditional and interesting of all African hunts, and it is pure magic to watch African trackers to their work. Despite their great weight, elephants are actually more difficult to track than buffalo because their feet have pads rather than hooves. So, elephant tracking is advanced tracking that only the most skilled trackers can do well.

It starts with a search for fresh tracks, which can mean days of covering ground, usually done by a combination of driving and walking. Fresh tracks will often be found crossing a road or track, and water sources are often critical. It may take a short time on the track. But by examining tracks, dung, and signs of feeding, African trackers can determine the age of tracks. This is critical information.

Successful tracking depends on the time of day. Early in the morning, it is perfectly acceptable to follow tracks made during the night, even 12 hours earlier. Elephants can cover many miles in a day, but they usually alternately feed and rest during the night. In the early morning, they will usually start to move toward heavy cover, where they will rest through the heat of the day. Knowledge of the area is thus important to evaluating the feasibility of following tracks. But an elephant will go where it goes, so one never knows at the outset where and how far a track might lead.

Age of a track is thus extremely critical in evaluating whether or not to follow, but so is the track itself. Because mature bulls are nearly twice the size of cows, it is very easy to determine bull tracks. Size of elephants vary regionally, so you’re looking for a large track for the area you are hunting. There are also indicators of age that fine soil will offer, such as depth of corrugations and sole wear. None of these indicators say anything about size of tusks. The only way to determine that is to track up the elephant and get a close look!

Glassing

In more open or hilly country, elephants are sometimes located by glassing. This is common in both Botswana and Caprivi, where elephants are extremely plentiful and the bush conditions allow it, and in hilly country in Zimbabwe and elsewhere. Depending on wind, you might circle to intercept or make a direct approach once elephants are located.

The Approach

The elephant hunt really starts almost at the end of the track. This may mean the sign is very fresh. Experienced PHs and trackers develop almost a sixth sense as to when elephants are near. Because of timing and the elephants’ habit of seeking thick cover at midday, auditory clues are the signs you will most likely encounter: a stick breaking as elephants feed, a trumpet from a paranoid cow, the soft belly rumbling of undisturbed elephants, or the much softer swishing sound of the great ears fanning.

Following tracks is fairly straightforward. Although if the wind is unfavorable, experienced trackers will often deliberately leave the tracks and try to circle the wind. But now, with elephants nearby, it is absolutely essential to get the wind right. Most trackers carry ash bags—cloth sacks filled with fine ash—that will show wind direction when shaken. This is usually the time to load the chamber of your rifle. Don’t hesitate to ask your PH if you should “load up.” But make sure your safety is engaged, and pay close attention to keeping your muzzle in a safe direction.

From this point, movement will be much slower and must be as quiet as possible. Depending on the cover, you may be able to walk upright, or you may need to crouch. Crawling or butt-scooting is possible but rare with elephants. Follow your PH’s lead, and concentrate on stepping as quietly as possible.

Stages of Elephant Hunting—Selecting the Elephant

Selecting the Elephant

This is probably the most exciting phase of any elephant hunt. At this point, you’re probably very close. Perhaps closer than you ever expected to be from a wild elephant. But you’ll be shocked at how well elephants blend into cover and how little cover it takes for an elephant to hide almost completely. Whether you’re looking for a worthy bull or a tuskless cow, you must now find out.

Often, you have to go very close then retreat and circle back to look at all the individuals in a group. This phase often happens at midday when African winds are swirling and unstable. So, the trackers are paying close attention to the wind while the PH studies the herd.

Hunters observe an elephant that is very close to them.

Professional Hunter: Yeah, he’s very inquisitive. It’s fine, no problem.

Hunter: Way too smart.

Professional Hunter: He’s not actually feeding there. He’s looking at us. He’s pretending to eat. That’s something that he put in his mouth is called crotalaria. They don’t normally eat that. This is called displacement behavior, where what he’s doing is he’s pretending that he wanted to eat that, but actually he’s checking us out. See how wide open his eyes are? If he was feeding, his eyes would be half shut. And he’s just listening to us talking. If I talk in a proper voice, he’ll probably flare up a little bit. He might come in a step or two, but then he’ll back off.

There we go. That’s fine. He’s going to back off. Now, watch. Back off, big guy. Back off. Back off. No, no, don’t worry. Back off. Back off, big guy. Back off. Back off. Back off. Back off.

The elephant leaves. The hunters laugh in relief.

Professional Hunter: That’s fun stuff, isn’t it?

Not every group or herd will contain a suitable animal. But if you get into a group of elephants and you manage to see each and every one and determine that there’s nothing in there you’re looking for, hey, you’ve won on that day.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington discuss an elephant they have just observed.

Professional Hunter: Nice elephant.

Craig Boddington: Beautiful.

Professional Hunter: Anywhere else probably.

Craig Boddington: Anywhere else.

Professional Hunter: The champagne cork would have been gone.

Craig Boddington: We’re not anywhere else.

Professional Hunter: No, that’s true.

Craig Boddington: This is the kind of bull we’re seeing. What a fantastic experience.

The Final Stalk

Depending on the range, you may be in a shooting position while you’re evaluating the elephants. But even a small group of four or five bachelor bulls is likely to be spread out whether resting or feeding. Even if you see an acceptable bull, most PHs will want to look at the entire group, making sure there isn’t a monster being overlooked.

So often you’ll have to do some creeping and sneaking to get into position. You’re excited and a little bit scared. This is the time when firearms safety habits become critical. Your chamber will certainly be loaded by now, but check it one last time. Check the power ring on your scope too. Depending on the terrain, you may want some magnification or not, but make sure it’s where you want it.

As you’re creeping and sneaking, check your safety repeatedly. Keep your fingers away from the trigger guard, concentrate on keeping your muzzle in a safe direction, and follow your PH’s lead. If a final approach is needed, it will usually be just you and the PH. The tracker is staying back to reduce noise and movement.

Follow your PH’s lead, and be very, very careful where you step. The PH will probably carry the shooting sticks. And if circumstances dictate, he might be able to set them up. But as we’ve discussed earlier with elephants, be prepared for that standing unsupported shot and expect it to be very close.

Selecting the Elephant

This is perhaps the most exciting phase of any elephant hunt! At this point, you are probably very close—perhaps closer than you ever expected to be from a wild elephant. But you will be shocked at how well elephants blend into cover and how little cover it takes for an elephant to hide almost completely!

Whether you’re looking for a worthy bull or a tuskless cow, you must now find out. Often, you have to go very close, then retreat, and circle back to look at all the individuals in a group. This phase often happens at midday, when African winds are often swirling and unstable. So, the trackers are paying close attention to the wind while the PH studies the herd. Not every group or herd will contain a suitable animal. But if you actually manage to see, evaluate, and eliminate all the animals in the group, then on that day, you’ve won.

Stand Up and Shoot

Your PH’s default method will almost always be to set up the shooting sticks, but this requires both time and motion. There are many situations with elephants when your stalk carries you so close that the extra movement necessary to set up the sticks is almost certain to spook the animal.

With elephant hunting—perhaps more so than any other African hunting—it is essential that you can make an accurate shot from an unsupported standing position. This is another exam that cannot be crammed for. Practice shooting standing on your range. Again, pie-plate accuracy at just 25 yards is good enough. Shot placement is critical on elephant, but beyond 25 yards is actually a long shot on elephant. If such a shot is necessary, there should be time to set up sticks. For the close-range encounter, practice so that you can raise the rifle, snicking the safety as you raise it, find the sight picture quickly, and hit the pie plate.

Closing on Elephant

In the final moments of a stalk—and any time a hunter is in proximity to elephants, even if inadvertently—the rifle will almost always be fully loaded (cartridge in the chamber and safety on). This is not only to be ready but also to avoid the metallic noise of working the action in proximity to game. Again, muzzle control is essential, with the mechanical safety as only a backup system.

• Crawling. Depending on terrain and vegetation, a lot or a little creeping and crawling is often required to get into a final shooting position. The biggest safety challenge comes when crawling is required. And this is potentially one of the most dangerous situations because many mechanical safeties can be brushed into firing position by grass and twigs. The trigger can also be snagged. Natural excitement doesn’t make it better! It is essential to focus on the muzzle, step by step, and ensure it is pointed in a safe direction. The muzzle can be offset to one side, or if you are in the rear of the line, the muzzle can be reversed.
• Butt scooting. An alternative to crawling on hands and knees is to sit flat with legs forward, knees bent, and feet flat on the ground. The rifle is laid across the lap with the muzzle to either side in a safe direction and with arms straight and hands to the rear. Using legs and arms, you scoot forward a foot and then repeat. Although slow and uncomfortable, butt scooting is safer from a muzzle control standpoint. If any significant distance must be covered, it is also less strenuous than hands-and-knees and creates much less wear and tear on hands, knees, and rifle.

Although techniques for crawling and scooting are important to know, their use is rare in elephant hunting because the elephant’s eyesight are a third and distant line of defense. Approaches must be made with the wind in favor and in absolute silence, so walking slowly, one step at a time, is most common when closing on elephants. Also, if the wind changes the hunter must be ready to move quickly!

Toughness of African Elephant

Elephants are so huge that “toughness” is a silly subject. No shoulder-fired rifle has enough power to impress an elephant. They can be killed readily but only by bullet penetration into brain, spine, heart, and lungs. Some of our really modern expanding bullets are actually tough enough to provide adequate penetration on some shots. But only non-expanding solid bullets designed specifically for penetration can provide reliable penetration on all potential shots. That said, with elephants, we are asking for a great deal of penetration—often through massive bone. No caliber or bullet is going to work every single time, so with elephants, it is extremely important to keep in mind what might happen next and be prepared for fast follow-up shots.

Shot Placement

Hey. Elephants are so huge that toughness is a silly subject. No shoulder-fired rifle has enough power to really impress an elephant. It’s all about shot placement.

They can be killed readily but only by bullet penetration to the brain, spine, heart, and lungs. Some of our really modern expanding bullets are actually tough enough to provide adequate penetration on some shots, but only non-expanding solid bullets designed specifically for penetration can provide reliable penetration on all potential shots.

That said, with elephants, we’re asking for a great deal of penetration, often through massive bone. No caliber of bullet is going to work every single time. So, with elephants, it’s extremely important to keep in mind what might happen next and be prepared for fast follow-up shots.

Neck and Spine Shots

Though either will at least immobilize an elephant instantly, neither is recommended for an initial shot. The target is too small and the risks of a non-fatal wounding shot much too high.

Frontal Brain Shot

By the time most hunters go on an elephant safari, they’ve read too many old books and watched too many DVDs, and they want to make that frontal brain shot. It is not recommended. The skull is huge, the brain is small, and it’s easy to make a mistake. The biggest challenge with the frontal brain shot is the brain lies well back in the skull, so its relative position changes with distance and head angle.

A professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside an elephant skull.

Professional Hunter: Bearing in mind the brain is about the size of an American football and is totally surrounded and protected by this huge, bulky bone.

Craig Boddington: It sits a whole lot lower in the skull than a lot of people believe.

Generally speaking, at moderate distance, maybe 15 yards, and in a resting attitude, directly between the eyes is about right. Very close in the final instant of a charge, the elephant will drop its head, so center of the forehead is more correct.

When the elephant is threatening, he raises his head. Or when he’s very close, the uphill angle now requires shooting well below the eyes and requiring even more penetration.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside the elephant skull.

Craig Boddington: And that means you’re going to have to penetrate this much bone to reach that brain.

Professional Hunter: Exactly. As the elephant gets closer to you and his head goes down, your point of entry of your shot becomes higher and higher, and less and less bone to go through. The other major problem you have with a frontal with the elephant is that your elephant’s ivory sockets end up right above the eye. And depending on the size of the bull, you’ve got anything from 22 to 26 inches of ivory in the head. Any slight side shot, undoubtedly, the hunter ends up hitting the ivory and damaging the ivory.

It’s not true that a near miss to the brain will always stun an elephant—sometimes. But don’t count on it.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside the elephant skull.

Craig Boddington: This is where you have that honeycomb bone that they talk about that just soaks up the shock, right?

Professional Hunter: If someone puts a shot through the honeycomb, Craig, undoubtedly, the elephant will walk away. It’s not going to go down.

The most likely result of a failed brain shot is that, absent rapid follow-up shot, that elephant will never be seen again. However, despite the most careful maneuvering to get into position, the elephant ultimately decides what shot angle is offered. If an elephant senses something amiss, it will often confront the threat, which means a frontal brain shot will be offered. Avoid it if you can, but study it hard.

The brain lies at the center of the broomstick. So, while external aiming point changes with head attitude and distance, aiming to break that broomstick is always the right shooting solution. If the frontal brain shot is successful, the back legs usually collapse first, and the elephant is down so fast that he literally falls out from under the recoil of the rifle.

If the brain shot fails, things happen just as fast. But you should instantly recognize that you’ve flubbed, and you have to shoot again immediately and more accurately. By the time you’ve recovered from recoil, it will be too late to try a frontal brain again, but the elephant will normally turn away. So, in very rapid succession—fractions of seconds—you’ll be offered first the side brain shot, and then the shoulder shot, and then, as a last resort, a going-away shot to either hip or spine.

Side Brain Shot

Although still not recommended for first-time elephant hunters, the side brain shot is much easier to visualize than the frontal brain, and it’s just as deadly. Unlike with the frontal brain, from the side, the relative position to the brain doesn’t change with head angle and changes only slightly with distance.

A professional hunter, a hunter, and Craig Boddington stand beside a downed elephant.

Professional Hunter: I’ve got Kofi actually pointing out the earhole there. And as the head pivots up, there’s no movement.

Craig Boddington: No, that doesn’t move.

Professional Hunter: Do you see that?

Craig Boddington: That stays the same.

Professional Hunter: It really is the pivot point.

Craig Boddington: The frontal shot changes radically, and the side shot doesn’t change at all.

Professional Hunter: Absolutely.

Craig Boddington: Wow.

Viewed from the side, the elephant’s earhole is very visible. Perfect shot placement for the side brain shot with a broadside presentation is simply one hand’s breadth, three or four inches, in front of the earhole. At a very slight quartering-away angle, the earhole was the aiming point. At a very slight quarter-to angle, shoot slightly in front of the earhole.

As with the frontal brain, things happen quickly. And you’ll know instantly if your shot failed or was successful. But with a failed brain shot, things happen even faster. There will only be a split second for a follow-up shoulder shot, and then a split second later, the only opportunity is the going-away spine or hip shot.

Shoulder/Heart Shot

This is the shot preferred by most professional hunters and the shot that’s recommended for first-time elephant hunters. The target is huge, the aiming point is clear, and if properly executed, the result is certain. The shoulder/heart shot is not as dramatic as the brain shot. An elephant so hit can be expected to run 50 to possibly 200 yards. But losing an elephant to even a marginal chest cavity shot is extremely unlikely.

The elephant has a very prominent crease behind the shoulder that looks very much like an upside-down V. Find that crease, and come up to the top. The crease will end about one-third up from the brisket. Perfect. Broadside, the top of the V is a perfect lung shot. Quartering slightly away, the top of the V is a top of heart shot. For the perfect shoulder/heart shot, however, with a broadside presentation, find the top of the upside-down V. Then, depending on how the elephant is standing, move about 6 to 10 inches left or right toward the center of the shoulder.

A hit slightly higher back will still be solidly in the lungs, but it’s important to stay below the horizontal halfway point. Such a hit should be quickly fatal. But the elephant is going to run, and you can’t be certain of either shot placement or bullet performance, so follow up that first shot if you possibly can.

Shot Placement: Neck and Spine, Frontal Brain

Neck and spine shots. Though either placement will at least immobilize an elephant instantly, neither is recommended for an initial shot. The target is too small, and the risks of a non-fatal wounding shot are too high.

Frontal brain shot. By the time hunters go on an elephant safari, most have read too much of the old stuff and watched too many videos. The front brain shot is often the shot they dream of making, but it is not recommended for first-time elephant hunters! The skull is huge, the brain is small, and it’s easy to make a mistake. It is not true that a near-miss to the brain will always stun an elephant. Sometimes, it will, but don’t count on it. The most likely result of a failed brain shot is that, absent rapid follow-up shots, the elephant will never be seen again. This shot should be avoided if possible. However, despite the most careful maneuvering to get into position, the elephant ultimately decides what shot angle is offered. If an elephant senses something amiss, it will often confront the threat, which means a frontal brain shot will be offered. Avoid it if you can, but study it.

• Head angle. The biggest challenge with the frontal brain shot is that the brain lies well back in the skull, so its relative position changes with distance and head angle. Generally speaking, at moderate distance (15 yards) and in a resting attitude, directly between the eyes is close. When very close in the final instant of a charge, the elephant will drop its head, so the center of forehead is more correct. When threatening or when very close, the uphill angle requires shooting well below the eyes and even more penetration.
• Break the broomstick! The most visual and most easily remembered rule on the frontal brain shot is to visualize a broomstick horizontally through the elephant’s skull from earhole to earhole. The brain lies at the center of the broomstick, So, while the external aiming point changes with head attitude and distance, aiming to “break the broomstick” is always the right shooting solution.
• What next? If the frontal brain shot is successful, the back legs normally collapse first, and the elephant is down so quickly that it essentially falls out from under the rifle. If the brain shot fails, things happen just as fast. But you should recognize instantly that you’ve flubbed it, and you must shoot again immediately and more accurately. By the time you have recovered from recoil, it will be too late to try a frontal brain again. The elephant will normally turn away, so in very rapid succession (fractions of seconds), you will be offered first the side brain shot, then the shoulder shot, and, then as a last resort, a going-away shot to either hip or spine.

Shot Placement: Side Brain, Shoulder/Heart

Side brain shot. Although still not recommended for first-time elephant hunters, the side brain shot is much easier to visualize than the frontal brain shot—and equally deadly. With the side brain shot, the relative position of the brain doesn’t change with the head angle unlike with the frontal brain shot. And it changes only slightly with distance.

• Viewed from the side, the elephant’s earhole is very visible. Perfect shot placement for the side brain shot with a broadside presentation is simply one hand’s breadth—3 or 4 inches—in front of the earhole.
• At a very slight quartering-away angle, the earhole is the aiming point. At a very slight quartering-to angle, shoot slightly in front of the earhole.
• As with the frontal brain shot, things happen quickly, and you will know instantly if your shot failed or was successful. But with a failed side brain shot things happen even faster. There will be only a split second for a follow-up shoulder shot, and then a split second later the only opportunity is the going-away spine or hip shot.

Shoulder/heart shot. This is the shot preferred by most African PHs and most recommended for beginning elephant hunters. The target is huge, the aiming point is clear, and if properly executed, the result is certain. The shoulder/heart shot is not as dramatic as the brain shot. An elephant that is hit can be expected to run 50 to possibly 200 yards, but losing an elephant to even a very marginal chest-cavity shot is extremely unlikely.

• Find the V. The elephant has a very prominent crease behind the shoulder that looks very much like an upside-down V. Find that crease, and come up to the top. The crease will end about one-third up from the brisket—perfect! Broadside, the top of the V is a perfect lung shot. Quartering slightly away, the top of the V is a top of heart shot. For the perfect shoulder/heart shot, however, with a broadside presentation, find the top of the upside-down V. Then depending on how the elephant is standing, move about 6 to 10 inches left or right toward the center of the shoulder.
• A hit slightly high or back will still be solidly in the lungs, but it’s important to stay below the horizontal halfway point.
• Such a hit should be quickly fatal, but the elephant is going to run. You cannot be certain of either shot placement or bullet performance, so follow up that first shot if you possibly can!

Shot Angles

Obviously, just like any other animal, elephants don’t always stand perfectly broadside. But because elephants are so much larger than anything else, only very slight quartering angles can be accepted for body shots, and angles make brain shots more difficult. The broadside presentation is rarely perfect, but most PHs will work very hard to maneuver you into an acceptable shooting position and presentation. And you must not shoot until your PH says, “Take him.”

Going-Away Shots

On unwounded elephant, of course, never. However, to prevent the escape of a wounded animal, the going-away shot is not an uncommon option. Like most animals, upon receiving a bullet, an elephant is most likely to turn away to escape, opening up two opportunities for follow-up shots.

Spine Shot

A central Texas heart shot is unlikely to penetrate to the vitals of an elephant, so it’s essential to break heavy bone. Unlike most animals, on an elephant, the spine is very visible as a prominent ridge above the tail. This is not a large aiming point, but a hit on that ridge will immobilize your elephant.

Hip Shot

Although harder to visualize, the hip shot is much preferred by experienced elephant hunters for stopping wounded elephants. As an elephant goes away, the pumping action of the massive hip joint is actually visible at just about the level of the anus. Aside from the obvious danger of following the elephant, the elephant’s able to cover vast amounts of ground. So, potential loss of the wounded elephant is probably higher than with any other animal. Never shoot unless you’re certain, but once the initial shot is fired, follow up your shot if you possibly can. If the first shot wasn’t fatal, additional shots can’t worsen the situation.

Shot Angles

Obviously game animals don’t always stand perfectly broadside. But because elephants are so much larger than anything else, only very slight quartering angles can be accepted for body shots, and angles make brain shots more difficult. The broadside presentation is rarely perfect, but most PHs will work very hard to maneuver you into an acceptable shooting position and presentation. You must not shoot until your PH says, “Take him!”

• Going-away shots. On unwounded elephant, of course, never! However, to prevent the escape of a wounded animal, the going-away shot is not an uncommon option. Like most animals, upon receiving a bullet, an elephant is most likely to turn away to escape—opening up two opportunities for follow-up shots.
• Spine shot. A central “Texas heart shot” is unlikely to penetrate to the vitals of an elephant, so it’s essential to break heavy bone. Unlike most animals, the spine on the elephant is very visible as a prominent ridge above the tail. This is not a large aiming point, but a hit on that ridge will immobilize your elephant.
• Hip shot. Although harder to visualize, the hip shot is much preferred by experienced elephant hunters for stopping wounded elephants. As an elephant goes away, the pumping action of the massive hip joint is actually visible, at about the level of the anus.

Aside from the obvious danger of following a wounded elephant, the elephant is able to cover vast amounts of ground. So, potential loss of a wounded elephant is probably higher than than with any other animal. Never shoot unless you are certain, but once the initial shot is fired, follow up your shot if you possibly can. If the first shot wasn’t fatal, additional shots cannot worsen the situation!

After the Shot

Adrenaline is surging, and that’s good. But that’s not the time to throw away safety. After firing a shot, immediately make ready to shoot again. With elephant hunting, a backup or insurance shot is almost always fired no matter what happens after the first shot. Sometimes, you will remain in position and observe or listen for a time. Other times, you will rush forward, depending entirely on your PH’s judgment at that moment. After the shot or shots, you should reload your chamber and be ready. But before you move forward to check your elephant or look for sign, be certain you engage your safety, and maintain full control of your rifle with both hands. Before you move is the right time to top up your magazine, especially if you have fired more than one shot.

Approach a downed elephant with extreme caution, and do not rush ahead of your PH and trackers. Approach with your PH. Ideally, approach so that a final insurance shot may be fired from a safe position—either into the brain or heart, depending on how the elephant is lying. With elephants, it is the lack of reaction to that insurance shot that verifies the animal’s death. Once it is certain the animal is deceased, unload your chamber.

Follow-Up Shots and Backup Shots

Follow-up shots. On the range, practice firing additional shots from sticks and while standing unsupported. If a brain shot is not successful, things happen very fast. And elephants almost never go down immediately even to perfectly placed heart/lung shots. So, with elephants, additional follow-up shots can be extremely important. If the first shot didn’t go right, follow-up shots, in this unique case, can actually be more important than the first shot.

• Practice working your action or using the second barrel of your double without changing position or losing your sight picture. Speed is of the essence! Things happen fast after the first shot is fired. But with elephants, there will usually be a brief opportunity for a follow-up shot, provided you have trained yourself adequately. Especially with failed brain shots—which are common—it is extremely unlikely that elephant will ever be seen again, so quick follow-up shots are of critical importance. As with all situations, it remains essential to be absolutely certain you are aiming at the same elephant!

Backup shots. These shots are commonly thought of as being fired by your PH at your elephant. Most competent PHs prefer not to fire, following the ethic that it is your animal and your long-awaited adventure. Some, usually with limited experience, are too anxious to assist.

• The subject of backup shots must be discussed with your PH at the start of your safari. If you insist on a brain shot, then it is highly recommended that you ask your PH to be prepared to fire immediately after you do. The result of a failed brain shot, as one famous PH said, is that the elephant will “ramp the horizon, never to be seen again.” The shoulder/heart shot, though not as immediate, is far more certain, and its use may preclude the necessity for the PH to fire.
• Ultimately, the PH is responsible for the entire party’s safety, including yours. It is the PH’s responsibility to recover wounded game if at all possible, and this is clearly essential with wounded dangerous game. It is recommended that the PH be allowed to use his or her judgment as to whether or not to fire. The necessity for the PH to fire is greatly mitigated by accurate initial shot placement and by follow-up shots when they can safely be made.

Following Up on Elephant

Absent a well-executed brain shot, it’s very unlikely for an elephant to fall within sight. However, the animal is huge. It’ll be heard crashing away for some time and may roar in pain and fright. In open cover, some PHs will immediately dash forward, trying to keep the elephant in sight. But it’s more common to wait a bit and listen.

If the shot is well placed, the elephant will go down very quickly, usually well within earshot. Either way, before moving, top up your rifle. Follow your PH’s lead. But be sure to engage your safety and keep your rifle muzzle in a safe direction. And be ready.

Your professional hunter and, perhaps, the trackers have observed the hit or hits, and they have a reasonable idea of the situation. But hey, some hits are better than they look and some are worse. Unless it’s believed that the shots weren’t well placed, the initial follow-up is generally conducted with the hope and often belief that the elephant is down.

With elephants, however, this is usually readily apparent. Blood spray from the trunk will indicate a proper heart-lung hit, and the elephant will quickly be found. The spoor will also reveal a poorer hit and a worse situation. Your professional hunter is in charge and he’s done this before. Place yourself where he tells you, and proceed carefully.

The professional hunter signals the group to stop.

Craig Boddington: There’s still movement?

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington walk slowly forward.

Rifle fully loaded, on safe, controlled by both hands, muzzle in a safe direction. When the elephant is spotted, whether down or standing, shoot again at your PH’s direction.

Craig Boddington fires his rifle at the elephant.

Professional Hunter: He’s going away.

The elephant is shown lying down.

Another hunter fires his rifle at an elephant in a herd. The elephant collapses. The other elephants run away as hunters shout at them. The elephant gets up.

Hunter: He’s getting back up. Hit him again.

The hunters fire multiple follow-up shots at the elephant.

Depending on cover and spoor, after you follow it for maybe 200 yards, the assumption has to be made that you’re following a wounded elephant. This is a dangerous situation, and the outcome is now uncertain. The spoor has to be followed as long as it is possible for the trackers to hold the track or until the elephant’s crossed a totally unbreachable boundary such as an international border. Wounded elephants have been recovered after several days on the track.

In the case of a wounded elephant, the PH is absolutely in charge. And one of the things he worries about most is an inexperienced hunter with a rifle in his hands. Some PHs prefer to follow up alone with their trackers. Others will invite the hunter to participate based on their evaluation of his or her coolness and safe gun handling. If invited, walk as the PH directs, usually to the side rather than the rear and concentrate. This is serious stuff.

Pay attention to where the PH and trackers are at all times. Keep your rifle on safe, and monitor your muzzle direction. This is a good time to load up again with solids. In the case of a charge, the frontal brain shot is usually the only shot that’s presented, and it’s the only shot that’s going to stop the elephant.

An elephant charges forward. Two hunters fire multiple shots at the elephant. The elephant collapses.

It hasn’t changed. Imagine the broomstick running from earhole to earhole, and shoot to break that broomstick.

Following Up on Elephant

Absent a well-executed brain shot, it is extremely unlikely for an elephant to succumb within sight. The animal is huge, so it will be heard crashing away for some time and may roar in pain and fright. In open cover, some PHs will immediately dash forward, trying to keep the elephant in sight. But it’s more common to wait a bit and listen. If the shot is well placed, the elephant will go down very quickly, usually well within earshot. Either way, before moving, top up your rifle. Follow your PH’s lead. But be sure to engage your safety, and keep your rifle muzzle in a safe direction. And be ready!

• Your PH and, perhaps, the trackers have observed the hit or hits. Based on experience, they will have a reasonable idea of the situation. But some hits are better than they look, and others are worse. Unless it’s believed that the shot or shots weren’t well placed, the initial follow-up is generally conducted with the hope (and often belief) that the elephant is down. With elephants, however, this is usually readily apparent. Blood spray from the trunk will indicate a proper heart/lung hit, and the elephant will quickly be found. The spoor will also quickly reveal a poorer hit and a worse situation. Your PH is in charge, and he or she has done this before. Place yourself where the PH tells you and proceed carefully—rifle fully loaded, on safe, controlled by both hands, muzzle in a safe direction. When the elephant is spotted, whether down or standing, shoot again on your PH’s instruction and place your shot as well as you can.
• Depending on cover and spoor, after you’ve followed for 200 yards, the assumption must be made that you are following a wounded elephant. This is a dangerous situation, and the outcome is now uncertain. The spoor must be followed as long as it is possible for the trackers to hold the track or until the elephant has crossed a totally unbreachable boundary, such as an international border. Elephants have been recovered after several days on the track.
• In the case of a wounded elephant, the PH is absolutely in charge, and one of the things he or she worries about most is an inexperienced hunter with a rifle following behind. Some PHs prefer to follow up alone with their trackers. Others will invite the hunter to participate based on evaluation of his or her coolness and safe gun handling. If invited, walk as the PH directs—usually to the side rather than the rear—and concentrate. This is serious stuff. Pay attention to where the PH and trackers are at all times, keep your rifle on safe, and monitor your muzzle direction. This is a good time to load up with solids!
• In the case of a charge, the frontal brain is usually the only shot—and almost always the only shot that will stop the elephant. The shot placement hasn’t changed; you must shoot to “break the broomstick” running from earhole to earhole.

Researching Africa

Anticipation is part of the fun of any safari, but smart preparation will make any safari more successful.

For further study:

• African literature. These works are unusually rich. Since the African elephant has long been the stuff of legends, there are a number of great books specifically on elephant hunting, both old and current. While Africa has certainly changed, elephant hunting hasn’t changed much, so there is value to this reading. Just be aware that today’s trophy quality is not what it was 50 years ago, so do not allow your reading and study to instill unrealistic expectations.
• Films and videos. Beware of unnecessarily sensationalized media. With elephants, mock charges are common, but serious charges are rare, especially with straight shooting and careful hunting. However, there are great films, television shows, and videos (both amateur and professional) on elephant hunting. The most important thing to learn is to visualize proper shot placement, and moving pictures are excellent for this. They are also valuable for ivory judgment.

Conditioning

Elephant hunting is not marathon running or sheep hunting, but an elephant hunt with typical tracking can be one of the most physically demanding hunts in Africa. The best exercise for walking is walking. Tracking is conducted at a slow, steady pace. But it isn’t unusual to be on tracks for several hours, and at the end of the hunt, the vehicle may be several hours away.

Practice

Shooting accurately is a key to the success of any hunt. The more practice time you can manage in the months and weeks before the hunt is to the good. There is no formula, but if an unfamiliar heavy rifle is acquired for an elephant hunt, a minimum of 50 (better 100) shots should be fired through it prior to the hunt, both to build familiarity and to ensure absolute reliability. Because of recoil, this cannot be done in one or two sittings. You can use a .22 to practice shooting off sticks and while standing. Shooting the elephant rifle should be limited to 5 to 10 shots per range session to avoid acquiring a recoil-induced flinch.

• Shooting sticks. Make or acquire a set of shooting sticks and practice with them, working your bolt through a full magazine or using both barrels of your double.
• Speed. The great complaint of African professional hunters (PHs) about their hunters’ shooting is not raw accuracy but speed in acquiring targets and getting their shots off. Rather than just practicing shooting off sticks, practice starting a few feet behind them with rifle down and safety on. Work on getting into position, acquiring the target, and getting an accurate shot off quickly.
• Offhand or standing. Practice shooting unsupported at closer ranges. In the field, this is to be avoided. But in close encounters with elephants, there is often no other option, so spend a lot of range time shooting offhand.
• Reloading. Practice working your action rapidly with as little movement off the target as possible, firing two or three shots rather than just one.
• Use a .22. While there is no substitute for shooting the rifle or the rifles you intend to use on safari and becoming absolutely familiar and confident, shooting off sticks and shooting offhand can be practiced very effectively with a .22 rimfire—cheaper ammo, no recoil, less noise. Training with an accurate airgun is equally effective.

Medical Considerations

Always consult your doctor before planning any distant hunt, or beginning a training regimen for any hunt. That said, medical preparations for safaris are minimal.

• Inoculations. The Centers of Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) maintains a listing of required and recommended inoculations by country. Again, consult with your doctor before taking any medications, but “required” and “recommended” mean just that. You can expect to be required to show proof of a required inoculation in order to gain entry to a country, while recommended inoculations are at your discretion. It’s important to check the current listings, but typically, there are no required inoculations for Namibia, South Africa, or Zimbabwe. Countries to the north often require a current yellow fever vaccination.
• Malaria prophylaxis. Except for South Africa, most elephant hunting areas have potential for malaria-carrying mosquitoes. Numerous malaria preventives are available—all by prescription—so discuss the best option with your doctor.
• Medical evacuation membership. African hunting is generally safe, but in the case of an accident or sudden illness, medical evacuation from a foreign country can be catastrophically expensive. Several firms offer medical evacuation memberships that will cover these expenses if evacuation is necessary. This coverage is a good idea any time you are away from home, so annual membership is ideal for people who travel regularly. If this is not the case, short-term membership is available to cover the period of your safari.
• First-aid training. If you aren’t trained, get basic first-aid training. Your PH will do everything possible to prevent you from being injured. You should be prepared to help your PH if there’s a serious accident.

Paperwork

Temporary firearms importation and visa requirements vary with countries (and visa requirements vary depending on your country of origin). Both are subject to change. Discuss these requirements with your outfitter well ahead of your safari, and be clear as to what actions are required and who (you or your outfitter) is supposed to do them.

Airline Reservations and Requirements

Airline Reservations and Requirements Traveling with firearms is increasingly difficult. Some carriers no longer carry firearms, and many carriers require advance notice. Some interim destinations require special permits to transit with firearms. The simplest and safest solution is usually to use a “firearms and hunting-savvy” travel agent to help sort through the labyrinth, but if you book your travel yourself, speak to an airline representative and make sure all requirements are fully understood.

Clothing

With current baggage restrictions, it’s advisable to pack light. This is generally possible on an African safari because weather is usually mild and, unlike hunting camps in many areas, laundry is done on a more or less daily basis.

• Camouflage is becoming more common in Africa, and restrictions against wearing it have generally been lifted. Whether camouflage or solid, neutral green is the preferred color. You should have at maximum three changes of clothing.
• Fabric chosen should be quiet to avoid scratching noises in brush and should be rugged enough to withstand vigorous handwashing. Cotton is always a good choice.
• Whether you wear short or long trousers or sleeves is a personal choice. Most PHs wear shorts. Shorts are quieter in brush and cooler during the heat of the day but mean more exposure to the sun and (probably) more scratches from thorns.
• Do not underestimate how cold it can be during the African winter (June to August), which corresponds with the peak safari season in southern Africa. In addition to layered outerwear for cold mornings and rapidly cooling evenings, bring a warm watch cap or balaclava and gloves.
• Rain is extremely unlikely between June and October, but it is not impossible. Light rain gear can also double as an extra layer.

Additional Equipment

Optics

Binoculars are mandatory, likewise good sunglasses.

Firearms Accessories

Cleaning kit. Africa is hard on firearms. Dust is the major issue, but once in a while, insects nest in gun barrels (overnight). Bring minimal cleaning gear: oil, solvent, patches, and a jointed cleaning rod.

Rifle sling, scope caps, soft gun case, belt ammunition pouch, hearing protection. Especially if the decision is made to bring just one rifle, consider bringing a spare riflescope set in rings, along with necessary tools to switch in case a scope fails or is damaged in a fall.

Ammunition. Required amounts vary depending on length of safari and size of bag, but running low isn’t fun, and running out is a problem. Think about two to three cartridges for each animal you plan to hunt along with spares for zeroing and checking zero periodically. If a specific rifle is brought primarily for elephant, then 30 rounds is plenty, mixed between expanding and solids. Weigh your total ammunition, and make sure you don’t exceed the international 5-kilogram or 11-pound baggage limit for ammunition.

Packing Tips

Firearms and Ammunition

Firearms must be packed separately in sturdy locked cases. Make sure your hinges are secure and the hasps allow the case to be securely locked. Always declare firearms and ammunition when you approach any ticket counter.

In the United States, up to 5 kilograms or 11 pounds of ammunition in original factory containers can be in checked baggage, separate from firearms. In Europe and South Africa, the same weight limit applies, but ammunition must be checked separately in its own locked case (wood, metal, or plastic). The simplest approach is to get a small, sturdy ammunition case and pack it in your duffel bag with locks inside but not locked when you leave the United States. In this fashion, you are ready to comply if required during a plane change or stopover.

Carry-On Bag

While baggage handling is generally reliable, delays and lost bags do occur everywhere in the world. Pack your carry-on bag as if it were the only bag you will receive! You can usually borrow a rifle and ammo and purchase basic clothing articles, so mandatory in the carry-on are binoculars, camera, extra prescription glasses, all prescription medications for the full period of your hunt, one change of clothing, and anything else you simply cannot live without for 10 days or 2 weeks.

Checked Bags

Luggage must be rugged and waterproof, but soft duffel bags are better than hard-sided luggage because they are easier to fit into vehicles and smaller final transport to camp.

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Trotline Fishing Tips and Tricks

Where and When to Set out Trotlines

Catching catfish with trotlines is very fun and a great way to provide family and friends with some of the best table fare there is. While many anglers have their go-to ways of catching catfish, there are several timeless tips and tricks out there that may lead to many more fish on your trotline than the next angler.

The first tip to catching catfish on a trotline would be to identify raises in the waterways you’re fishing. The shallower water that these raises may serve flatheads and other catfish subspecies very well as they pursue food at night. These fish tend to lay in deeper water and cover during the day and navigate into shallower, open water at night to feed.

The next tip would be to pay attention to the time of the year you’re fishing. The three times of the year to identify in your area are pre-spawn, spawn, and post-spawn. The spawn is when fish breed. However, different fish may spawn at different times of the year, so don’t confuse the report of someone fishing for spawning bass or crappie with when the catfish may be spawning. When catfish spawn, many of them tend to stay very close to, if not hovering over a bed. This fixes their focus more on breeding and reproducing than feeding, making them harder to catch on a trotline.

Take the state of Kentucky, for example. Catfish in the state of Kentucky tend to spawn in the month of June. Some of the most successful catfishing anglers may fish up to Memorial Day and then back off of setting trot lines in the month of June. Then, around 4th of July, it’s a great time to get your trotlines back in the water.

A final trick that can prove to produce high yields of catfish is to target flathead catfish in the fall when they are heavily feeding to prepare for winter. Months such as September and October, throughout most parts of the U.S., can prove to be very good months to set trotlines. Especially, for flatheads.

What You Need to Build a Trotline

Building a trotline for catfishing can prove to be a relatively simple way to catch a large amount of catfish with minimal effort. The supplies required to build your own trotline can all be acquired at Walmart and are relatively affordable for the yield of catfish they can all provide. Trotline supplies include:

• Main Line – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#36)
• Drop Lines (The lines going from your main line to your hooks) – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#18)
• Fishing Swivels – Requires 2 Swivels Per Drop Line
• Catfish Hooks – Requires 1 per Drop Line; Get as big as size 8/0 for bigger catfish like flatheads and blue cats and as small as size 1/0 for smaller breeds like channel or mud catfish
• Trotline Clips – Used to attach angler information for legality purposes or for attaching weights throughout the trotline to maximize the amount of submersion
• Line Winder – Serves to wind up a trotline in an organized manner

How to Build a Trotline:

• How many hooks should you put on a trotline?
• How long does a trotline need to be?
• How do you assemble a trotline?
• How do you weigh down a trotline?

The first question you need to answer is: How long should my trotline be? To answer this question, you will need to do some scouting. If you’re going to drop your trotline in a big body of water like a lake or reservoir, you may want to tie off to a couple of trees sticking up in shallow water. In this case, your trotline should be long enough to span the distance between the trees. If you’re dropping the trotline in a river, you need to know where you want to fish. Catfish like creeks and rivers with shallow flats next to deeper water. In many cases, these flats run along the bank for short distances. You may need a short trotline in this case. Other times, you may want to go bank to bank and, in these cases, you will need a longer trotline.

Next, you need to know how many hooks to tie to your trotline. The general rule of thumb is to have a hook every six feet. This will give you good coverage, but hooks will not be so close that they tangle up when a hooked catfish starts thrashing. Check the regulations for the lake and state you fish in. In many cases, there are limits on the number of hooks a trotline can have. Also, most states require trotlines to have a form of identification to indicate who owns the trotline. Make sure your trotline is tagged appropriately.

The easiest way to assemble your trotline is to tie your mainline between two trees. Next, tie your 24-inch drop line to the mainline every six feet. After you tie each dropline, go ahead and tie the swivels and hook to the dropline. Some anglers prefer two swivels per dropline and others use one swivel — the choice is yours. Once you are done, wind it up and you’re ready for the water. If you have time and are fishing areas with little traffic, you can do all this at the actual location. Once you’re on the water, simply tie off the main line, tie your drop lines and hooks and then bait as you go.

To sink your trotline to the bottom, you will need to tie weights to your trotline. Most anything will work for a weight. Rocks and coffee cans full of cement are often used. Tie enough weights to get to the depth you need. Generally, there is a heavy weight in the middle and several others on either side. Keep in mind the more weight you have, the more weight you’re pulling up when checking the trotline.

How to Set a Trotline

Your overall setup will only be as good as where you place the trotline and how well you fasten it to each end’s anchor. The following steps serve as a great baseline to properly setup your trotline:

• Identify solid anchor points to tie the trotline to on each side of the body of water you’re fishing. Solid tree roots, green bushes, or fallen timber are great things to search for first.
• Tie each end of the trotline to the identified anchor points.
• Begin on any side of the trotline and place your drop lines on the main line and bait each hook as you assemble the drop lines. As you progress across the trotline, fasten weights to any points on the main line that will help to properly submerge the main line. Continue fastening the drop lines and weights to the other end of the trotline.

Best Bait to Use on a Trotline

When it comes to catching catfish on a trotline, your trotline will only be as attractive as the bait you put on each hook. It is important to know that different subspecies of catfish prefer different types of food. Knowing which subspecies of catfish you’re targeting will help you determine what type of bait to use on your trotline. Some subspecies of catfish prefer live bait, while others prefer lifeless bait.

Questions that may lead you to choosing the best bait for catfish in your water are:

• What kind of catfish are in the water I’m fishing?
• Of those types of catfish, which ones am I targeting?

Best Live Bait to Use on a Trotline

When targeting flathead or channel catfish, live bait can prove to be the most effective.

Best Cut Bait and Artificial Bait to Use on a Trotline

When targeting blue catfish or channel catfish, freshly cut parts of dead fish work best, followed by any types of dead bait or “stink catfish baits.”

Best Hooks to Use on a Trotline

The best hook to use on a trotline is directly correlated with the size and species of catfish you’re targeting and the size of the bait being used on the trotline. When targeting smaller sizes and species of catfish, such as channel catfish or mud catfish, you may look toward a smaller J-Style hook such as sizes 1/0 or 2/0 hooks. As the catfish size and species you’re targeting get larger, so will the size of your hook. When targeting big catfish such as blue catfish or flathead catfish, you should start getting closer to a size 8/0 hook.

By PJ DelHomme

Chuck Adams reveals what it takes to keep bowhunting—even into your 70s.

Chuck Adams is perhaps the greatest bowhunter of all time. That’s a bold statement, but consider this. In 1990, Adams became the first archer in history to harvest all varieties of North American big game—a feat called the Super Slam. As I write this in early August 2022, he has more than 210 Pope and Young record-book entries, which is more than any other hunter in history. In addition, he’s racked up six bowhunting World’s Records. Adams turned 71 in May, and I was able to track him down before he headed back to Alaska to hunt solo for Sitka blacktail deer. Here’s what he had to say.

You started bowhunting in California when you were 13. Why bowhunting?

The minimum age you could hunt big game there was 12, and both my grandfathers and dad had great hunting spots. As a young kid, I would think about hunting deer all year. Using a rifle, I got my deer down in a few days, and I thought it was a lot of anticipation for the pay off. I took up bowhunting, so I could hunt more and kill less. I got my first deer with a bow at 16. It took me three years to do that, just like my hero Fred Bear.

How do you continually get out there and get it done? What’s your secret?

It’s probably genetics. My dad was packing deer on his back when he was in his 80s. And I live a really healthy lifestyle. I don’t drink alcohol. I don’t eat domestic red meat—it’s all wild game. I’m out there hiking around and doing something all the time. I can tell you I still feel like I’m 30. I carried three deer back to my camp [last season] about five miles. The average Sitka deer is 60 pounds of boneless meat.

How often do you practice shooting your bow?

I talked to a doctor about 20 years ago because my friends were having shoulder issues. My doctor said I would be better off shooting less. So that’s what I did, and I’m one of the few guys over 60 that I know who has had no shoulder problems. And I usually shoot a 75-pound bow.

I’ll usually start shooting 20-30 arrows twice a week in May. Then in July, I shoot about 60 arrows each week. I always warm up with about five minutes of shoulder rolls. I also take time between shots to re-oxygenate my muscles. When I shot tournament archery, I watched people shoot too fast, and they didn’t let their muscles or their mind recoup between shots.

Did you ever go on a hunt and think you weren’t going to make it back?

I wrote about the “Death March” in one of my books about a hunt in British Columbia in the 1970s. We had 29 horses and mules when we started, and nine of them died on the trail because of malnutrition. The hunt was set up with one of the companies I worked with, and they didn’t do their research. It started snowing, and we didn’t dare ride the horses except to cross the streams, which we did 28 times—I counted. If we all hadn’t been in good shape, I’m not sure what might have happened.

How much does luck play into hunting—bowhunting in particular?

It’s huge—sometimes. For example, I didn’t expect to kill the new World’s Record typical velvet Sitka deer last year, and it was the first deer I saw on the trip. Overall, though, luck is fairly small when it comes to planning. The most important thing in bowhunting is persistence. If you’re persistent enough, you will overcome anything.

Do you ever kill anything without big antlers? Do you take all that meat home?

I love the meat, and I pack it all out. I eat the heck out of wild game. Nowadays in Alaska, the excess baggage fees have gotten so high that I donate some meat to the local mission on the island. If my bush pilot needs meat, I’ll sign it over to him. And the laws are pretty clear about wanton waste. This year I applied for a cow elk permit in Wyoming, which I’ll probably get. And one in Montana, too.

Most folks can’t say they hunt for a living. Can you say that?

No. I make a living, so I can hunt. I write, do seminars, TV shows and rep a few companies that I like, so I can go hunt. If I felt any pressure to hunt, I think I’d quit. I hunt for fun, not to make money.

Any hunt you would never want to do again?

Polar bear. I was 1,000 miles away from my outfitter, and it was a rodeo from start to finish. My guide said he had the best dogs, but they had supposedly run away, so he had another set of dogs that were terrible. They ran away from the first bear we saw. I ended up stalking that bear myself.

Do you have a state or terrain that speaks to you more than others?

My two favorite states to hunt are Montana because of the variety of game and Alaska because there you can hunt most species without a guide. I only go with a guide if it’s legally required. I’ve been bowhunting for 50 years, so I don’t really need one. Guides do have knowledge of the area. But honestly, I wouldn’t want another Chuck Adams guiding me because two bowhunters make twice as much noise as one.

In just about every photo I see of you, you’re wearing the same faded camo and old boots. Why not upgrade to high-tech camo?

I don’t think all those new camo patterns work as well as merino wool and traditional stuff. I think it’s a stunt. That stuff is too expensive. You can fade a pair of black Levis and be just fine. Today, I would say there is a cult following all those camo patterns. When guys show up at hunting camp all wearing the same fancy camo, I just laugh.

Any plans to hang up your bow and take up golf?

I’ll hang up my bow when I can’t put one foot in front of the other. I’ve got 211 Pope and Young animals, the most of any hunter, and my buddy Frank is trying to catch me. That’s really not the reason, but I am challenge oriented. I can’t stand the thought of running a race and even seeing anyone close. I hunt because I love it. I think the bottom line is that I enjoy bowhunting as much as I ever have. The glitter has never worn off for me.

Learn more about Chuck Adams at his website, www.chuckadamsarchery.com. Or follow his exploits on Instagram @Chuckadamsarcheryofficial.

PJ DelHomme writes and edits content from his basement office in western Montana. He runs Crazy Canyon Media and Crazy Canyon Journal.

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Originally published in 2007

On a plaque outside David L. Hayes’ Leitchfield, Ky., home are the words “One old fisherman lives here with the catch of his life.” Whether the sign refers to Ruth, his wife of 64 years, or the gigantic smallmouth bass that hangs on his living room wall is anyone’s guess. It’s a question Hayes wryly refuses to answer.

Unfortunately for the 80-year-old angler, it’s not the only question surrounding his trophy catch from Dale Hollow Lake on the Tennessee-Kentucky border 50 years ago. Controversy swirls around this fish that stood as the world record for more than 40 years and now splits the record keeping authorities squarely down the middle.

The International Game Fish Association, generally recognized as the authority on freshwater fishing records since taking over from Field & Stream in 1978, disqualified Hayes’ catch in 1996. The National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame did likewise the same year. In 1999, however, the Hall of Fame reinstated Hayes’ catch. The IGFA has not budged.

Even the states involved in this tangled tale are on different pages. Kentucky disqualified the catch in the midst of the IGFA and Hall of Fame turmoil. Hayes still sits atop the Tennessee record book.

It’s a controversy that confounds smallmouth fans and frustrates the small community of Celina, Tenn., where a remarkable series of events took place more than half a century ago.

The catch

The date was July 9, 1955, and David Hayes, his wife and their six-year-old son were spending the day on Dale Hollow Lake trolling a 600 series pearl Bomber for smallmouth and walleye. They’d been coming to “the Hollow” for about three years, and Hayes had gotten very good at summertime trolling — so good that he was occasionally followed by local guides and other anglers hoping to learn his secrets.

On July 9, however, things were slow. Hayes’ favorite trolling runs were coming up empty … at least until he swung into a favorite cut between Illwill Creek and Phillips Bottom, just north of Trooper Island and in Kentucky waters.

“There were a couple of weed beds through there, and if you lined it up just right you could bring your plug right between them and keep it bumping the bottom.”

Hayes had about 300 feet of line out when the big fish hit. At first he thought he was snagged. Then he felt the surge of a powerful fish.

It took several minutes with his Tru-Temper steel rod, Penn Peer 209 reel and 20-pound-test line to bring the bass boatside, but Hayes eventually put a net under the leviathan. “It was between 10:00 and 10:30 a.m.,” he said.

“I had no idea it was a world record.”

The controversy

The fastest, easiest way to be called a liar is to catch a giant fish. Make it a world record, and the detractors will beat a path to your door.

After Hayes swung his giant smallmouth aboard his 21-foot cruiser, he stowed the fish in a metal cooler he kept on the deck of the boat and went right back to fishing. The Hayes family liked to eat fish, and the day was still young.

Sometime around noon, Hayes was getting low on gas and decided to head to the nearest marina — Wisdom Dock, up Illwill Creek. When he got there, he was met by Granville “Lightnin’ ” Madison, a dockhand who filled Hayes’ gas tank. When Madison asked if Hayes was having any luck, the angler was characteristically modest.

“I’ve got one pretty good smallmouth,” Hayes said.

Madison asked if he could weigh it, and Hayes agreed. Unbeknownst to the angler, Kentucky Water Police Officer Oral Burtram was inside the marina and saw the fish on the scales. The smallmouth lacked an ounce of weighing 12 pounds.

From Wisdom Dock, Hayes headed down the lake to Cedar Hill Resort, where he maintained a slip for his boat. It was there that the story took an unfortunate turn.

Once again the fish was placed on the scales — this time they were certified — and once again the bass weighed 11 pounds, 15 ounces. People who were there and saw the fish still marvel at its size.

Hayes’ mistake was in letting the fish out of his sight. He let dockhands at Cedar Hill weigh it. Had he kept it under his control the entire time, he would likely have never lost his place in the record books.

More than a month later, on August 17, Raymond “Doughbelly” Barlow presented an affidavit to the Corp of Engineers office at Dale Hollow Lake. The document, sworn to by Doughbelly’s nephew, John H. Barlow, claimed that Hayes’ bass had been tampered with — that it really weighed only 8 pounds, 15 ounces and that Cedar Hill Resort owner Dick Roberts and John’s own brother Ira had asked John (a one-time guide at Cedar Hill) to “fix it up good.”

John claimed he shoved 3 pounds of motor parts and sinkers into the bass’ gullet then pinned the fish’s throat shut with a treble hook. After the alleged dirty work was done, the bass weighed 11-15 — the same as it had weighed at Wisdom Dock.

Because the Corps isn’t involved in keeping fishing records, the affidavit was returned to Doughbelly and a copy kept in the Corps office. It would be more than 40 years before anyone looked at it again.

A record is undone

Hayes was firmly entrenched in the record books by the mid-1990s when a Livingston, Tenn., assistant principal invited him to display the fish at an outdoors show. Eldon Davis and a few others decided that Hayes’ bass didn’t look like it weighed nearly 12 pounds and began their own investigation.

Davis found the John Barlow affidavit and then found Barlow himself. Using a private polygrapher and a set of questions devised by Davis, John passed a lie detector test. He was never given a subsequent test by state officials.

Within a few months, Hayes’ bass was stricken from the record books despite the fact that no one from IGFA bothered to get his version of events. Hayes learned of the disqualification when Bassmaster senior writer Colin Moore called to interview him in 1996.

Tennessee’s due diligence

Whether or not David Hayes holds the world record for smallmouth bass, the record came from Dale Hollow Lake. Both the second (John Gorman’s 10-14 in 1969) and third (Paul Beal’s 10-8 in 1986) biggest bronzebacks were caught there.

So when Ron Fox, assistant director of the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, investigated the catch and controversy in the summer of 1996, it was with an eye to discovering the truth, not to defend a state icon.

“I thought the research would be brief and confirm that the fish was a hoax, but the more I looked into it, the more the bits and pieces added up to help us reach our decision to maintain the catch as a record.”

Fox talked to all the living witnesses to the catch and weighing. He heard from Bobby Stone, the night clerk at Cedar Hill who slept each night on the freezer containing the fish until it was sent to a taxidermist. Stone also examined the fish on the day it was caught, had his photo taken with the fish numerous times after the weighing and stated unequivocally that the fish’s gullet was not pinned shut with a treble hook or otherwise compromised.

Fox talked with Lightnin’ Madison who saw the fish at Wisdom Dock and confirmed its weight at 11-15. He even spoke with John Barlow’s brother, Ira, a Cedar Hill clerk and guide who was at the dock when Hayes came in and whom John implicated in the alleged tampering.

Ira told Fox that John was nowhere near Cedar Hill that day and that John fabricated the story in order to get revenge on Dick Roberts, who had fired him from his guiding position. Ira even passed a polygraph test by a licensed examiner.

“I feel very comfortable that Mr. Hayes caught the world record smallmouth and deserves the recognition for it,” Fox said. In March of 1997, TWRA decided to keep the Hayes fish as the state record.

A formula for the truth

Whether you contend that Hayes’ smallmouth weighed a legitimate 11 pounds, 15 ounces or whether you believe John Barlow and others boosted its weight, there’s no question that the fish was 27 inches long and had a girth of 21 2/3 inches.

A highly regarded formula for estimating bass weight is length x length x length ÷ 1,600. Plug the known numbers into the formula and Hayes’ bass comes out to 12.3 pounds (12 pounds, 5 ounces).

The other most commonly used formula for estimating bass weight based upon measurements is length x length x girth ÷ 1,200. Under this equation, the Hayes smallmouth weighs 13.16 pounds (13-3).

If the bass’ girth measurement is reduced by three inches — more than enough to compensate for any foul play, the formula would still indicate a weight of 11.34 pounds (11-5).

The Hayes bass was simply too large to weigh just 8-15, as John Barlow claimed.

The affidavit

Why would Dick Roberts ask John Barlow to boost the weight of Hayes’ bass? The obvious answer, of course, would be to gain notoriety from having a world record smallmouth weighed at Cedar Hill Resort.

Forget for a moment that Dick Roberts was a pillar of the community, that he taught Sunday school at Celina United Methodist Church for more than 40 years and that he had the respect of virtually everyone around the lake. Ignore the fact that it would be completely out of his character to do something so unethical.

Instead, ask why anyone would need the help of John Barlow for such a deed. After all, even according to Barlow’s own sworn statement, “Mr. Roberts and Ira Barlow came to me, and Mr. Roberts asked me to lead the fish — told me to fix it up good — and handed me a number of lead sinkers. Ira Barlow also had some lead sinkers in his hand.”

Why did they need John Barlow if Roberts and Ira Barlow were standing right there with the sinkers? Why bring someone else in on the fraud? It makes no sense.

The usual suspects

Three men came together to create the affidavit sworn to by John H. Barlow, and all of them had motives to lie and discredit Cedar Hill Resort. In addition to John, there was Doughbelly Barlow and James H. Reneau Jr.

Doughbelly was a well-known character around Dale Hollow Lake in the 1950s. The corpulent fishing guide worked out of Dale Hollow Marina and was a sometime deputy sheriff known for ruthless behavior. He was also John’s uncle.

Doughbelly was renowned for being jealous of other anglers who were catching bass when he was struggling. It would have bothered him to see a world record come into a competing marina. That it was caught by a weekend angler added insult to injury.

Jimmy Reneau was the attorney who prepared the affidavit. He also was the owner of Holly Creek Resort, just up the lake from Cedar Hill. Whatever business Dick Roberts gained by having a record smallmouth come to Cedar Hill, Reneau may have felt he was losing at Holly Creek.

Even the county court clerk who notarized the affidavit may have had something to gain from the conspiracy. Mary Ruth “Oopie” Reneau was Jimmy’s sister.

Can I get a witness?

By the time John Barlow’s affidavit came to light in the mid-1990s, most of the principals in the matter were dead. Raymond Barlow died in 1975; Jimmy Reneau committed suicide in 1981; Oopie died in 1984; and Dick Roberts passed away in 1993.

Of the six men John Barlow implicated in the conspiracy — himself, Dick Roberts, Dick’s eldest son Dickie, Ira Barlow, Walter Blakely and David Hayes — only the Barlows, Dickie Roberts and Hayes were alive in 1995 when the statement resurfaced.

And only John Barlow recollected anything at all about tampering with the big smallmouth. Hayes denies it emphatically. Dickie Roberts was astounded by the charges and refuted any involvement on the part of himself or his father.

And when Ira Barlow was on his deathbed in 1998, he told his son, Tim, that the fish was legitimate and that John had fabricated the entire tale. Tim calls his Uncle John a “career liar” and says that setting the record straight was something his father wanted to do, right to the very end of his life.

Absolutely no one backs up John Barlow’s story of fish tampering. Even the witnesses he lists in his infamous affidavit refute him.

Where are we now?

The witnesses to the record smallmouth controversy are, quite naturally, disappearing. David Hayes is nearly the only one left.

Though Tennessee and the Hall of Fame have placed Hayes in his proper position in the record book, Kentucky and the IGFA have not, choosing instead to ignore the considerable evidence in his favor.

Whether or not his home state and the IGFA do the right thing and reinstate his catch will have little effect on Hayes’ life. He enjoys his retirement, his family and his friends. Unless someone asks about the big fish, Hayes seldom talks about it.

But to have one of the greatest accomplishments in sportfishing history discredited in the face of so much evidence to the contrary is an indignity that no one should suffer.

As Ron Fox puts it, “Mr. Hayes is a fine individual and should not end this life with his accomplishment being lost from the record books.”

Bob Jensen |

I like to go ice-fishing. And, I like to catch whatever I can catch through the ice. Walleyes, bluegills, crappies, bass…they’re all fun. But I also really like to catch perch and so do a whole lot of other ice-anglers. Fortunately, there are lots of outstanding places to catch perch across the Ice-Belt. Following are some ideas for catching perch (and most other fish) through the ice from the middle part of the ice-fishing season until the ice disappears.

You’ve Gotta Find’em

As always, first you’ve gotta’ find’em. “Pounding” is a good way to locate perch as well as walleyes. Drop your bait to the bottom, then pick it up so it’s just a few inches above the bottom. A spoon works well for “pounding”. If you have a depth-finder that enables you to see a certain zone, several of the Vexilar units incorporate this feature, set the unit so you can look at the zone just above the bottom. It’s easy to do and will really give you a good idea of what’s going on down there around your lure.

Now, on a tight line, allow the bait to fall so it hits the bottom. Do this 3 or 4 times, then lift the bait up 6-12 inches above the bottom and hold it there. The pounding action will attract any fish that might be in the area and they’ll come in for a closer look. They might eat, they might not, but at least you know that there are fish in the area. I prefer to “pound” the spoon with a tight line. If the spoon falls on a limp line, it can tangle up in the line. Fish usually don’t eat spoons that are tangled.

Presentation

If the perch are looking but not eating, you need to show them something different. Don’t change baits yet, just present it differently. Maybe move it faster or slower, but move it differently.

If the fish still don’t respond, we need to go to another color or maybe another type of bait. In the mid and latter parts of the ice-fishing season, the fish have seen a lot of baits. Try showing them something that maybe they haven’t seen as much of. Clam Tackle’s Pinhead Mino and Leech Flutter Spoons are a couple of relatively new baits that the perch have been liking. The eighth ounce size is a good place to start, but don’t hesitate to try the sixteenth ounce size if the fish don’t eat the bigger one. Go larger for walleyes. These spoons have become very popular in a short amount of time for finicky fish.

And, sometimes you have to go tiny for pressured perch or when the weather has them shut off. This is when you bring out the lightweight small stuff. My go-to setup for finicky perch or crappies has become a Sceptre light action rod with a spring- bobber. 3 pound test Floroice line is as light as I go. This size is nearly invisible, yet it’s plenty strong for most perch. A little Drop Kick or Drop Jig tipped with a spike or waxworm completes the package. I like to start with a heavier jig, but will go smaller if necessary. The spring-bobber on the rod will reveal even the lightest strike. Keep in mind, the weight of the jig will pull the bobber down a bit. If the spring-bobber goes down farther or goes up, a fish has eaten your bait.

Some of the best ice-fishing of the season is coming. If you keep these ideas in mind, your next few weeks of ice-fishing will be even more productive.

To see new and old episodes of Fishing the Midwest television, new and old fishing articles, and fishing video tips, visit fishingthemidwest.com and don’t forget to join us at Facebook.com/fishingthemidwest.

Factors That Influence The Value of a Benelli M3

When evaluating the worth of a Benelli M3 shotgun, it’s essential to consider the multitude of factors that can influence its market value. Beyond its model and condition, various elements come into play, each leaving its unique imprint on the shotgun’s overall desirability and worth.Whether you’re a prospective buyer looking for a deal or a seller aiming to maximize your returns, understanding these elements is crucial. From the condition and rarity of the firearm to the presence of special features and customizations.

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Conditions

When it comes to determining the value of a Benelli M3 shotgun, one of the most critical factors to consider is its condition. The condition of a firearm can significantly impact its market worth, influencing the decisions of both buyers and sellers alike.We will explore the telltale signs of each condition, shedding light on what sets them apart and how they can affect the shotgun’s value. Whether you’re a seasoned firearm enthusiast or someone looking to buy or sell a Benelli M3, understanding these conditions is key to making informed decisions and getting the most out of your shotgun.

New or Mint Condition

New or Mint Condition for the Benelli M3 refers to shotguns that are in pristine, untouched, and essentially brand-new condition. These firearms exhibit no signs of wear, use, or cosmetic imperfections, and they typically come with all the original packaging, manuals, and accessories. Shotguns in this condition command a premium in the market due to their exceptional state and desirability among collectors and discerning buyers. Their value is at its highest because they offer the assurance of reliability and performance akin to a brand-new firearm. For buyers seeking the best possible condition and overall shooting experience, investing in a Benelli M3 in New or Mint Condition is an ideal choice, although it comes at a higher price point. Collectors often covet these shotguns as they represent the pinnacle of preservation and can be considered investments due to their potential for future appreciation in value. However, readers should be aware that maintaining this condition over time may require careful storage and handling to prevent any degradation or wear that could impact the shotgun’s value.

Excellent Condition

Excellent Condition for the Benelli M3 denotes shotguns that have been well-maintained and exhibit minimal signs of wear or use. These firearms may have seen some limited use but have been cared for meticulously by their owners. In this condition, the shotgun’s finish remains largely intact, with only minor handling marks or imperfections, often barely noticeable. Mechanically, shotguns in Excellent Condition function flawlessly, offering reliable and consistent performance. While they may not be in brand-new condition, these shotguns still maintain a high level of appeal and functionality. Their market value remains strong, making them an attractive choice for buyers who seek a well-crafted firearm with a track record of reliability but are willing to accept slight cosmetic imperfections in exchange for a more budget-friendly price compared to New or Mint Condition shotguns. Readers should understand that Excellent Condition shotguns represent a balance between value and condition, offering a dependable and well-preserved firearm without the premium price tag associated with brand-new models.

Very Good Condition

Very Good Condition for the Benelli M3 characterizes shotguns that have been used but remain in solid shape with minor wear and cosmetic imperfections. These firearms may exhibit some visible signs of use, including small scratches, handling marks, or slight finish wear, but nothing that significantly detracts from their overall appearance or functionality. Mechanically, shotguns in Very Good Condition continue to operate reliably, with no major issues affecting their performance. This condition represents a balance between affordability and functionality, making Very Good Condition Benelli M3 shotguns an attractive choice for buyers who prioritize value and are willing to accept some cosmetic wear in exchange for a firearm that offers dependable operation and a more accessible price point than models in Excellent or New Condition. Readers should understand that Very Good Condition shotguns provide a practical and budget-friendly option for those looking for a reliable firearm that may show signs of use but remains fully functional and capable of meeting their shooting needs.

Good Condition

Good Condition for the Benelli M3 shotguns describes firearms that have been used and exhibit noticeable wear, handling marks, and cosmetic imperfections. These shotguns have seen extensive use and may display significant finish wear, scratches, or dings, although these blemishes do not affect their mechanical functionality. Mechanically, shotguns in Good Condition continue to operate reliably, providing consistent performance despite their cosmetic wear and tear. This condition represents an entry-level option for budget-conscious buyers who prioritize functionality and are willing to accept cosmetic imperfections for an affordable price. Good Condition Benelli M3 shotguns can still serve their intended purpose effectively, making them suitable for shooting enthusiasts seeking a dependable firearm without a substantial investment. However, readers should be aware that Good Condition shotguns may not offer the same aesthetic appeal as those in higher conditions and may require some refinishing or restoration efforts to improve their appearance if desired.

Fair Condition

Fair Condition for the Benelli M3 shotguns indicates firearms that have experienced extensive use and exhibit significant wear, cosmetic imperfections, and signs of aging. These shotguns display noticeable finish wear, scratches, dents, and may have some rust or corrosion on metal components. While they have seen substantial use, shotguns in Fair Condition still maintain basic functionality, firing reliably and safely. This condition represents a cost-effective choice for budget-conscious buyers who prioritize affordability over aesthetics and are willing to accept considerable wear and imperfections. Fair Condition Benelli M3 shotguns are suitable for utilitarian purposes, such as farm or ranch use, where cosmetic appearance takes a backseat to functionality. Readers should understand that while Fair Condition shotguns offer a budget-friendly option, they may require maintenance, refinishing, or potential restoration efforts to improve their overall appearance and condition if desired.

Poor Condition

Poor Condition for the Benelli M3 shotguns denotes firearms that have experienced extensive use, neglect, or damage, resulting in severe wear, corrosion, and significant cosmetic imperfections. These shotguns exhibit substantial finish wear, scratches, dents, rust, or corrosion on both metal and wooden components. Mechanically, shotguns in Poor Condition may have functional issues or safety concerns due to wear and neglect. This condition is typically associated with shotguns that have been poorly maintained, heavily abused, or neglected for an extended period. Poor Condition shotguns are typically not suitable for shooting and may require extensive repairs or restoration efforts to make them functional and safe. They are often considered projects for experienced gunsmiths or individuals with the skills and resources to restore them. Readers should be aware that Poor Condition shotguns are generally not recommended for regular use, and their market value is significantly reduced due to their condition.

Models

When it comes to the Benelli M3 shotgun, diversity is one of its defining features. This renowned firearm offers a wide array of models, each tailored to specific shooting preferences and applications. Whether you’re a seasoned shooter, a collector, or someone exploring the world of firearms, understanding the various models of the Benelli M3 is essential. From the tactical prowess of the ‘Benelli M3 Tactical’ to the adaptability of the ‘Benelli M3 Convertible,’ we leave no stone unturned in our quest to unravel the distinctive attributes of each model, helping you make informed decisions in the world of Benelli shotguns.

Tactical

The Benelli M3 Tactical is a specialized variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed primarily for law enforcement and tactical applications. What sets it apart is its unique ability to switch between pump-action and semi-automatic modes, offering adaptability in dynamic situations. This feature, combined with its rugged construction and reliability, makes it a favored choice among tactical units. The Benelli M3 Tactical’s impact on market value is generally positive, as its tactical features and reputation for dependability tend to make it more desirable to buyers in the law enforcement and civilian self-defense market segments. Its versatility and functionality have solidified its position as a reliable firearm for those seeking a shotgun tailored for tactical use.

Convertible

The Benelli M3 Convertible is a notable variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun that distinguishes itself through its dual-operation system. It provides users with the unique ability to switch seamlessly between pump-action and semi-automatic modes, catering to various shooting scenarios. This versatility is particularly valuable for shooters who require adaptability in their firearms. While the Benelli M3 Convertible may not command a significant premium in terms of market value, its appeal lies in its flexibility, making it an attractive choice for a broad range of users, including law enforcement, military personnel, and civilian shooters who value the option to switch between operating modes based on their specific needs.

Super 90

The Benelli M3 Super 90 is a notable variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun with a history dating back to the late 20th century. This model is recognized for its reliability, durability, and dual-operation system, allowing users to switch between pump-action and semi-automatic modes. The “Super 90” designation signifies its chambering for 12-gauge shells and its reliability, as Benelli shotguns are known for their robust construction. The Benelli M3 Super 90 has earned its place as a versatile and dependable firearm, suitable for a wide range of applications, including law enforcement, military, hunting, and sport shooting. Its impact on market value is generally positive, with its reputation for reliability and adaptability contributing to its desirability among discerning buyers and collectors alike.

Super 90 Entry

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Entry is a specialized variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed for close-quarters combat and entry scenarios. It is recognized for its shorter barrel length, typically around 14 inches, which allows for greater maneuverability in tight spaces. This compact configuration is particularly favored by law enforcement and military units engaged in breaching and room-clearing operations. While the Benelli M3 Super 90 Entry may not be as versatile as some other models due to its specialized design, it excels in its intended role, making it a preferred choice for those seeking a compact and powerful shotgun for tactical use. Its impact on market value is often positive within the tactical and self-defense market segments, as its unique design and reputation for reliability are highly valued by those who require a close-quarters firearm solution.

Super 90 Field

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Field is a variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun specifically tailored for hunting and field applications. It is known for its longer barrel length, typically around 26 to 28 inches, and various choke options that enhance its performance in hunting scenarios. The “Super 90” designation signifies its chambering for 12-gauge shells and its robust build quality. The Benelli M3 Super 90 Field is a preferred choice among hunters who appreciate its reliability, durability, and versatility in the field. Its longer barrel and choke options contribute to improved accuracy and range, making it well-suited for various types of hunting, including waterfowl, upland game, and turkey. While its impact on market value may not be as pronounced as specialized tactical models, the Benelli M3 Super 90 Field is valued by hunters who seek a dependable and adaptable shotgun for their outdoor pursuits.

Convertible Pistol Grip

The Benelli M3 Convertible Pistol Grip is a variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed to provide enhanced control and maneuverability. What sets it apart is the inclusion of a pistol grip, which offers a different ergonomic grip style compared to traditional shotgun stocks. This configuration is often favored by those who prefer a more compact and close-quarters firearm setup, such as security personnel or those using the shotgun in confined spaces. The pistol grip design allows for quick aiming and rapid target acquisition. While the Benelli M3 Convertible Pistol Grip may not have a significant impact on market value, its appeal lies in its specialized grip option, which some shooters find advantageous for specific applications, such as home defense or tactical use.

Super 90 Kromo

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Kromo is a distinctive variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun, recognized for its unique chrome finish that sets it apart in terms of aesthetics. While the core functionality and features remain consistent with the standard Benelli M3, the Kromo’s chrome-plated exterior adds a striking and visually appealing element to the firearm. The chrome finish not only enhances the shotgun’s appearance but also contributes to increased corrosion resistance, making it particularly suitable for challenging environments. This special edition Benelli M3 may hold a unique appeal for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its eye-catching design and the added layer of durability provided by the chrome plating. However, the impact of the Kromo’s finish on market value can vary based on individual preferences and collector interest.

Convertible Slug

The Benelli M3 Convertible Slug is a variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun optimized for slug shooting. It is specifically designed to accommodate the use of slug ammunition, which is often used for increased accuracy and stopping power at longer ranges. While the core features of the Benelli M3 remain consistent, this specialized variant may include barrel configurations and sights tailored for improved accuracy with slug rounds. The Benelli M3 Convertible Slug’s impact on market value can be positive, as it caters to a specific niche of shooters who prioritize accuracy and power, particularly for hunting or target shooting at extended distances. This variant’s ability to provide versatility by accommodating both slug and standard shotgun shells makes it attractive to those seeking a single firearm for multiple shooting scenarios.

Special Editions

The allure of a Benelli M3 shotgun becomes even more captivating when adorned with the mark of exclusivity and distinction—special editions. These unique variants of the Benelli M3 offer firearm enthusiasts and collectors an opportunity to own a piece of history and craftsmanship that goes beyond the ordinary.From the sleek ‘Benelli M3 Black Tactical’ to the rugged ‘Benelli M3 Super 90 Marine,’ we delve into the details of each special edition and explore how their individual characteristics contribute to the shotgun’s desirability and market value. Whether you’re a collector in search of rarity or a shooter seeking enhanced aesthetics.

Black Tactical

The Benelli M3 Black Tactical is a special edition variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed with a focus on tactical applications. What sets it apart is its sleek and tactical all-black finish, which not only enhances its aesthetics but also contributes to reduced glare and visibility in low-light situations. This special edition caters to law enforcement, military, and civilian shooters seeking a tactical shotgun that combines functionality with a distinct appearance. While its impact on market value may vary, the Benelli M3 Black Tactical’s specialized features and visual appeal make it a compelling choice for those who prioritize both aesthetics and tactical performance in a shotgun.

Super 90 Marine

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Marine is a special edition of the Benelli M3 shotgun known for its robust and corrosion-resistant design. What distinguishes it is its marine-grade stainless steel finish, making it highly suitable for use in wet and saltwater environments where traditional firearms might be prone to rust and corrosion. The stainless steel construction ensures durability and reliability in harsh conditions, appealing to maritime security personnel, boat owners, and those in coastal regions. While the Benelli M3 Super 90 Marine may not significantly impact market value, its unique finish and resistance to the corrosive effects of saltwater make it an attractive choice for individuals seeking a shotgun capable of withstanding the challenges of marine environments.

Super 90 Kryptek Highlander

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Kryptek Highlander is a special edition variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun, featuring the distinctive Kryptek Highlander camouflage pattern. This unique finish not only enhances the shotgun’s aesthetics but also provides effective concealment in various outdoor environments, particularly those with highland terrain and foliage. The Kryptek Highlander pattern makes it a preferred choice for hunters and outdoor enthusiasts seeking a shotgun that blends seamlessly with natural surroundings. While the impact of this special edition on market value may vary, its camouflage finish and suitability for hunting purposes make it an appealing choice for those who prioritize both functionality and camouflage capabilities in a shotgun.

Super 90 Desert Camo

The Benelli M3 Super 90 Desert Camo is a special edition variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun, featuring a desert camouflage finish that is well-suited for arid and desert environments. What sets it apart is its unique exterior that not only enhances its appearance but also provides effective concealment in desert terrains. This special edition caters to hunters and outdoor enthusiasts seeking a shotgun that blends seamlessly with the arid landscapes, making it a preferred choice for desert hunting. While its impact on market value may vary, the Benelli M3 Super 90 Desert Camo’s distinctive camouflage finish and suitability for desert environments make it an appealing choice for those who prioritize both functionality and camouflage capabilities in a shotgun.

Tactical Entry Gun

The Benelli M3 Tactical Entry Gun is a specialized variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed for close-quarters combat and entry scenarios. What sets it apart is its shorter barrel length, often around 14 inches, which allows for greater maneuverability in tight spaces. This compact configuration, combined with its tactical features, such as a collapsible stock and ghost ring sights, makes it a preferred choice for law enforcement and military units engaged in breaching and room-clearing operations. While the Benelli M3 Tactical Entry Gun may not significantly impact market value, its appeal lies in its specialized design and its reputation for reliability and adaptability in high-stress situations. This variant caters to those who require a compact and powerful shotgun for tactical use, where quick target acquisition and maneuverability are crucial factors.

Super 90 SpeedFeed

The Benelli M3 Super 90 SpeedFeed is a special edition variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun, often recognized for its SpeedFeed stock. This feature allows for quick ammunition access and reloads, making it an attractive choice for shooters who prioritize rapid and efficient reloading during high-stress situations. While the core functionality of the Benelli M3 remains consistent, the SpeedFeed stock adds a layer of practicality for those who require swift follow-up shots. The impact of the Benelli M3 Super 90 SpeedFeed on market value may vary, but its specialized stock design and appeal to shooters seeking improved reload speed and convenience make it a compelling choice for those in law enforcement, home defense, and other tactical applications.

Entry Comfortech

The Benelli M3 Entry Comfortech is a specialized variant of the Benelli M3 shotgun designed with a focus on shooter comfort and reduced recoil. What distinguishes it is the inclusion of a Comfortech stock, which incorporates advanced recoil-absorbing technology. This specialized stock design significantly reduces felt recoil, making it an ideal choice for shooters who value a more comfortable shooting experience, especially during extended shooting sessions. While the Benelli M3 Entry Comfortech may not significantly impact market value, its appeal lies in its dedication to improving shooter comfort, making it a preferred choice for those who prioritize reduced recoil and enhanced ergonomics without compromising the shotgun’s reliability and adaptability for various applications, including hunting and sport shooting.

Finishes

The exterior finish of a Benelli M3 shotgun not only protects it from the elements but also plays a vital role in its aesthetics and market value. From classic matte black to eye-catching camouflage patterns, the range of available finishes for the Benelli M3 is as diverse as its models.We will not only reveal the unique characteristics of each finish but also delve into how they can influence the shotgun’s desirability and appeal to prospective buyers. Whether you’re a shooter with a preference for stealthy matte black or a hunter seeking the perfect camouflage.

Matte Black

The Matte Black finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun offers a sleek and understated appearance that is both classic and versatile. This finish provides a non-reflective, low-gloss surface, reducing glare and making it an excellent choice for tactical applications where minimizing visibility is essential. While the Matte Black finish may not have a significant impact on market value, its practical and unassuming design is favored by those who appreciate a straightforward and durable finish that complements the shotgun’s robust construction.

Blued Steel

The Blued Steel finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun offers a classic and traditional appearance that has been a hallmark of firearms for generations. This finish is achieved through a bluing process that provides corrosion resistance and an attractive dark blue-black appearance. While the Blued Steel finish may not significantly impact market value, it appeals to those who appreciate the timeless aesthetics of a blued firearm and the added layer of protection against rust and corrosion. This finish reflects a commitment to the heritage of firearms craftsmanship while maintaining the functionality and reliability that the Benelli M3 is known for.

Camouflage

The Camouflage finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun offers a versatile and practical exterior that is designed to blend seamlessly with various natural environments. This finish typically features patterns such as Mossy Oak, Realtree, or other camouflage designs, making it an excellent choice for hunters and outdoor enthusiasts. The primary purpose of the Camouflage finish is to provide effective concealment in the field, allowing the shotgun user to remain undetected by game animals. While the impact of the Camouflage finish on market value may vary, its appeal lies in its functionality, catering to those who prioritize effective camouflage and stealth during hunting and outdoor activities. This finish allows the Benelli M3 to adapt to different terrains and environments, enhancing the overall hunting experience.

Nickel-Plated

The Nickel-Plated finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun offers a distinctive and visually striking appearance. This finish is achieved through the application of a nickel plating layer, providing a bright and reflective surface. While the Nickel-Plated finish may not have a significant impact on market value, it is favored by those who appreciate the unique aesthetics it brings to the firearm. The nickel plating not only adds a layer of corrosion resistance but also imparts a polished and lustrous look to the shotgun. It caters to shooters who seek a shotgun with a standout appearance, making it an attractive choice for collectors and enthusiasts interested in firearms with a distinct finish.

Marine Grade Stainless Steel

The Marine Grade Stainless Steel finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a practical and robust choice, specifically designed for use in harsh and corrosive environments, such as maritime and saltwater conditions. This finish provides superior resistance to rust and corrosion, ensuring the shotgun’s durability and functionality in challenging settings. While the impact of the Marine Grade Stainless Steel finish on market value may vary, it appeals to individuals who require a shotgun capable of withstanding the corrosive effects of saltwater and other harsh elements. This finish reflects the firearm’s suitability for maritime security personnel, boat owners, and those operating in coastal regions, where reliability and corrosion resistance are paramount.

Desert Camo

The Desert Camo finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a specialized exterior design that is well-suited for arid and desert environments. This finish typically features a camouflage pattern tailored to blend seamlessly with desert terrains, providing effective concealment during hunting or shooting in such settings. While the Desert Camo finish may not significantly impact market value, it is valued by those who prioritize functionality and camouflage capabilities in desert environments. This specialized finish allows the Benelli M3 to adapt to the unique challenges posed by desert landscapes, enhancing the overall hunting or shooting experience by providing effective camouflage and concealment in arid conditions.

Kryptek Highlander Camo

The Kryptek Highlander Camo finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a distinctive and effective camouflage pattern designed for highland terrains and foliage-rich environments. This specialized finish allows the shotgun to seamlessly blend into natural surroundings, making it an excellent choice for hunters and outdoor enthusiasts seeking effective concealment. While the impact of the Kryptek Highlander Camo finish on market value may vary, it caters to those who prioritize both functionality and camouflage capabilities in their shotgun. The unique pattern reflects a commitment to providing shooters with effective concealment in highland environments, enhancing their overall hunting and shooting experiences by allowing them to remain undetected by game animals.

Kryptek Typhon Camo

The Kryptek Typhon Camo finish for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a specialized camouflage pattern designed for stealth and concealment in dark and low-light environments. This finish features a dark and intricate pattern that provides effective blending into shadowy and nighttime settings, making it particularly suitable for nocturnal hunting or tactical applications where minimizing visibility is crucial. While the impact of the Kryptek Typhon Camo finish on market value may vary, it appeals to those who prioritize both functionality and camouflage capabilities in low-light conditions. This unique finish reflects a commitment to providing shooters with effective concealment in situations where staying unseen is essential, enhancing their hunting or tactical experiences by allowing them to operate discreetly in the dark.

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Included Accessories

While the Benelli M3 shotgun is a remarkable firearm on its own, its value and versatility can be further enhanced by the array of accessories that often accompany it.From the convenience of extra magazines to the assurance of a trigger lock, these accessories can play a crucial role in tailoring your shotgun to your specific needs and preferences. We will not only list these accessories but also delve into how each one can impact the overall value and functionality of your Benelli M3. Whether you’re a new owner or considering a purchase, understanding the significance of these accessories is key to maximizing the potential of your Benelli M3 shotgun.

Original Box

The Original Box for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a valuable accessory primarily from a collector’s perspective. While it does not significantly impact the market value for those intending to use the shotgun for practical purposes, it holds importance for collectors and enthusiasts who value firearms in their original packaging. The presence of the original box, along with any accompanying paperwork, such as manuals and documentation, can enhance the shotgun’s appeal to collectors. However, for those looking to sell or use the shotgun for its intended purpose, the absence of the original box is unlikely to affect its functionality or overall value. It’s essential for readers to understand that the impact of the original box on the shotgun’s value largely depends on the collector market and individual preferences.

Manuals

Owner’s Manuals and other documentation for the Benelli M3 shotgun, while valuable for familiarizing owners with the firearm’s operation and maintenance, generally do not have a significant impact on its market value. These documents are important for ensuring safe and proper use of the shotgun, as they provide essential information about assembly, disassembly, cleaning, and maintenance procedures. However, their absence or presence is unlikely to influence the shotgun’s monetary value when it comes to selling or trading it in. Their primary value lies in helping owners understand and maintain their firearms correctly, contributing to the overall safety and longevity of the shotgun rather than affecting its market price.

Extra Magazines

Extra magazines for the Benelli M3 shotgun are practical accessories that can enhance the firearm’s utility, particularly for those using the shotgun in a tactical or self-defense context. While they do not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, they offer practical advantages by providing additional ammunition capacity for quicker reloads during high-stress situations. For individuals who prioritize the shotgun’s performance in tactical scenarios, having extra magazines can be a valuable asset, allowing for a more rapid response to threats. However, for those using the shotgun primarily for hunting or sport shooting, the presence or absence of extra magazines is less likely to affect their overall shooting experience or the shotgun’s market value. It’s important for readers to recognize that the impact of extra magazines on the shotgun’s value varies based on the intended use and user preferences.

Choke Tubes

Choke tubes for the Benelli M3 shotgun are essential accessories that play a crucial role in determining the shotgun’s versatility and performance in various shooting scenarios. Choke tubes allow shooters to adjust the spread and pattern of shot pellets, making the shotgun more adaptable for different purposes, such as hunting or sport shooting. The presence of a variety of choke tubes, including options like improved cylinder, modified, and full choke, can enhance the shotgun’s value to individuals who require flexibility in their shooting activities. While choke tubes may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, they offer practical advantages by tailoring the shotgun’s performance to specific needs. Shooters who engage in diverse shooting disciplines may find the availability of different choke tubes a valuable asset, allowing them to optimize the shotgun’s performance for different targets and distances.

Choke Wrench

A choke wrench for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a small yet essential tool that allows users to change or adjust choke tubes easily. While a choke wrench itself does not have a significant impact on the shotgun’s market value, it holds practical value for shotgun owners who frequently change choke tubes to adapt to different shooting scenarios. The presence of a choke wrench can enhance the user’s convenience and efficiency in managing choke tubes. It allows for quick and secure adjustments, ensuring that shooters can optimize their shotgun’s performance for specific shooting situations. However, for individuals who seldom change choke tubes or have limited need for adjustments, the absence of a choke wrench is unlikely to affect their overall experience with the shotgun. Readers should recognize that the impact of a choke wrench on the shotgun’s value depends on the user’s shooting preferences and frequency of choke tube changes.

Shotgun Sling

A shotgun sling for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a practical accessory that offers convenience and ease of carry while on the move. While it may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, it provides valuable advantages for users who require mobility and versatility in their shooting activities. Shotgun slings allow users to carry the shotgun comfortably, leaving their hands free for other tasks or maneuvers. They are particularly useful for hunters who may need to hike long distances or for those engaging in tactical operations. The presence of a shotgun sling can enhance the overall shooting experience by reducing fatigue and providing a secure method of carrying the shotgun. However, for individuals who primarily use the shotgun for stationary shooting or have no need for extended carrying, the absence of a sling is unlikely to affect their overall experience with the firearm. It’s important for readers to recognize that the impact of a shotgun sling on the shotgun’s value depends on the user’s specific shooting requirements and preferences.

Cleaning Kit

A cleaning kit for the Benelli M3 shotgun is an essential accessory that plays a vital role in firearm maintenance and longevity. While it may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, it is a practical and necessary tool for firearm owners. Cleaning kits typically include essential items such as cleaning rods, brushes, patches, and solvents, which are essential for maintaining the shotgun’s reliability and performance. Regular cleaning and maintenance help prevent corrosion, remove fouling, and ensure that the firearm functions correctly. Having a cleaning kit on hand allows users to keep their shotgun in optimal condition, contributing to its longevity and overall reliability. Readers should understand that while a cleaning kit may not directly affect the shotgun’s market value, it is a critical accessory for responsible firearm ownership and ensures the shotgun’s continued performance and durability over time.

Trigger Lock

A trigger lock for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a safety accessory designed to prevent unauthorized access and use of the firearm. While it may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, it is an important safety tool for responsible firearm ownership. Trigger locks help ensure that the shotgun cannot be fired accidentally or by unauthorized individuals, particularly in households with children or when the firearm is not in use. They provide an additional layer of firearm safety, complementing other safety measures such as safe storage practices and firearm education. Having a trigger lock can contribute to the overall safety and responsible ownership of the shotgun. It is essential for readers to understand that while a trigger lock may not directly affect the shotgun’s market value, it is a vital accessory for maintaining safety and preventing unauthorized access to the firearm.

Gun Case

A gun case for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a practical accessory that offers protection, storage, and transportation convenience for the firearm. While it may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, it holds considerable value in terms of safeguarding the shotgun and ensuring its longevity. Gun cases typically provide a secure and padded environment for storing and transporting the shotgun, protecting it from dust, moisture, and potential damage. They also offer a level of discretion, as they can conceal the firearm’s presence during transportation. Having a gun case is especially important for those who travel with their shotgun or store it for extended periods between uses. While it may not directly affect market value, it contributes to responsible firearm ownership and ensures the shotgun remains in excellent condition for years to come. Readers should recognize that the impact of a gun case on the shotgun’s value is primarily related to its utility and protection benefits rather than its market price.

Recoil Pad

A recoil pad for the Benelli M3 shotgun is a practical accessory designed to reduce felt recoil, thereby improving the shooter’s comfort and reducing the potential for recoil-related fatigue or discomfort. While it may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, it holds considerable value in terms of enhancing the overall shooting experience. Recoil pads are typically made of rubber or other shock-absorbing materials and are designed to be affixed to the shotgun’s buttstock. They help to absorb and disperse the energy generated by recoil, resulting in a softer and more manageable recoil sensation when firing the shotgun. For shooters who engage in extended shooting sessions or those who may be sensitive to recoil, a recoil pad can significantly improve their comfort and accuracy. While the presence or absence of a recoil pad may not directly affect the shotgun’s market value, it does contribute to the shooter’s overall enjoyment and comfort when using the firearm, making it a valuable accessory for some users.

Front and Rear Sights

Front and rear sights for the Benelli M3 shotgun are essential accessories that play a crucial role in aiming and accuracy. While they may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, they hold substantial value for shooters who prioritize precision and target acquisition. Front and rear sights enhance the shotgun’s versatility, allowing for more accurate shots at varying distances. The presence of these sights enables users to align their aim effectively, whether for hunting, sport shooting, or tactical purposes. While shotguns typically have a more limited effective range compared to rifles, the addition of front and rear sights can help shooters maximize their accuracy within the shotgun’s effective range. These sights are particularly valuable for those who require precise shot placement, such as hunters targeting small game or shooters engaged in competitive sports. Readers should understand that while front and rear sights may not directly affect the shotgun’s market value, they are valuable tools for enhancing shooting accuracy and performance.

Stock Shims

Stock shims for the Benelli M3 shotgun are practical accessories designed to allow users to adjust the shotgun’s stock to achieve a better fit and improved shooting comfort. While they may not significantly impact the shotgun’s market value, they hold considerable value for shooters who seek a personalized and comfortable shooting experience. Stock shims come in various thicknesses and configurations, allowing users to modify the shotgun’s stock to better match their body proportions and shooting style. Properly fitted stock shims can enhance the shooter’s comfort and accuracy by ensuring a more natural and ergonomic alignment between the shotgun and the shooter. This is particularly beneficial for individuals who spend extended periods shooting or require precise shot placement. While stock shims may not directly affect the shotgun’s market value, they contribute to the shooter’s overall comfort and satisfaction when using the firearm, making them a valuable accessory for those who prioritize a customized fit. Readers should understand that the impact of stock shims on the shotgun’s value is related to their utility and comfort benefits rather than their market price.

Customization

The Benelli M3 shotgun is more than just a firearm; it’s a canvas for customization. Whether you’re seeking to improve performance, enhance aesthetics, or tailor your shotgun to a specific shooting discipline, customization offers endless possibilities. From optics that enhance accuracy to extended magazine tubes for more rounds, we dive into the details of each customization, shedding light on what it is, why it matters, and how it can impact the overall market value of your Benelli M3. Whether you’re a competitive shooter, a hunting enthusiast, or someone who appreciates the finer details, our comprehensive guide will empower you to make informed decisions when it comes to customizing your Benelli M3 shotgun.

Optics

Optics customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the addition of optical devices such as scopes, red dot sights, or holographic sights to improve accuracy and target acquisition. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can vary based on the quality and type of optics installed. High-quality optics from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value by making it more accurate and versatile, appealing to shooters who prioritize precision. Conversely, low-quality or poorly chosen optics can have a negligible impact or even decrease the shotgun’s value, as they may hinder accuracy or reliability. The choice of optics should align with the shooter’s intended use, with hunting optics, for instance, catering to hunters seeking improved accuracy, while tactical optics may appeal to law enforcement or home defense users. It’s crucial for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the optics’ quality and suitability for the shotgun’s purpose.

Extended Magazine Tubes

Extended magazine tubes customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the installation of longer magazine tubes to increase ammunition capacity. The impact on the shotgun’s market value typically leans towards enhancement, as extended magazine tubes cater to users who prioritize increased firepower. This customization is particularly appealing to tactical users, law enforcement, and home defense applications, where having more rounds readily available is essential. The value addition is significant when extended magazine tubes are installed correctly and do not compromise the shotgun’s reliability or functionality. However, it’s important to note that the impact on market value can also depend on the shotgun’s overall configuration, as well as the specific aftermarket parts used for the extension. It’s crucial for readers to understand that extended magazine tubes can positively affect the shotgun’s value if done correctly and with quality components, but the overall impact may vary based on individual preferences and intended use.

Tactical Stocks

Tactical stocks customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the replacement of the factory stock with a specialized tactical stock, such as a collapsible stock or a pistol grip stock. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be variable, with both positive and negative factors to consider. High-quality tactical stocks from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value, as they offer improved ergonomics, customization options, and features like adjustable length of pull or recoil-reducing technologies. Such stocks cater to users who prioritize adaptability and comfort, particularly in tactical or home defense applications. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the chosen tactical stock compromises the shotgun’s overall balance, functionality, or aesthetics. It’s essential for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the specific tactical stock chosen, its quality, and its suitability for the intended use of the shotgun.

Foregrips

Foregrips customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves adding a vertical or angled grip to the shotgun’s forend to improve handling and control. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can vary based on the quality and type of foregrip chosen. High-quality foregrips from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value by offering improved handling and control, particularly for users engaged in tactical or home defense applications. Foregrips can provide stability during rapid fire, better maneuverability in tight spaces, and help reduce recoil-induced muzzle rise. However, it’s important to note that the impact on market value may decrease if the chosen foregrip is of poor quality, negatively affecting the shotgun’s reliability, balance, or aesthetics. The choice of foregrip should align with the shooter’s intended use, with tactical foregrips designed for users who prioritize enhanced control and versatility. Readers should understand that the effect on market value depends on the foregrip’s quality and suitability for the shotgun’s purpose.

Shell Carriers

Shell carriers customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves attaching holders or carriers to the shotgun’s stock or receiver to provide quick access to additional ammunition. The impact on the shotgun’s market value typically leans toward enhancement, as shell carriers cater to users who prioritize increased ammunition capacity and quick reloads. High-quality shell carriers from reputable manufacturers can positively affect the shotgun’s overall value by making it more adaptable and appealing to those engaged in tactical or competitive shooting disciplines. The presence of shell carriers can also enhance the shotgun’s readiness in home defense scenarios. However, it’s essential to consider the quality and installation of shell carriers, as poorly designed or improperly installed carriers may negatively affect the shotgun’s reliability or aesthetics, potentially decreasing its value. Readers should understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen shell carriers for the shotgun’s intended use.

Recoil Pads

Recoil pads customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the addition of recoil-absorbing pads to the shotgun’s buttstock, aimed at reducing felt recoil and improving shooter comfort. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be predominantly positive, as recoil pads enhance the overall shooting experience. High-quality recoil pads from reputable manufacturers can significantly increase the shotgun’s value by making it more comfortable to shoot, particularly for users who engage in extended shooting sessions or are sensitive to recoil. These pads help mitigate the effects of recoil, reducing shoulder fatigue and improving shot placement accuracy. While the presence of recoil pads may not directly affect market value, it enhances the shotgun’s appeal to a broader audience by making it more accessible and comfortable to shoot. Readers should understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen recoil pad for the shotgun’s purpose and the user’s preferences.

Barrel Extensions

Barrel extensions customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the attachment of extended barrels or muzzle devices to achieve specific performance or aesthetic goals. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be variable, depending on several factors. High-quality barrel extensions from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s value by providing increased versatility, improved accuracy, or reduced recoil. For instance, extended barrels may offer better choke options for hunters or competitive shooters, enhancing their shooting experience. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the barrel extensions negatively affect the shotgun’s balance, handling, or aesthetics. It’s crucial for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the specific barrel extension chosen, its quality, and its suitability for the intended use of the shotgun. Additionally, barrel extensions may have different impacts in various shooting disciplines, and their value is often subjective based on user preferences and needs.

Sling Attachments

Sling attachments customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the installation of hardware or mounts that allow users to attach slings for convenient carrying and maneuverability. The impact on the shotgun’s market value is generally positive, as sling attachments enhance the shotgun’s overall versatility and appeal, particularly for users who value mobility and quick access to their firearm. High-quality sling attachments from reputable manufacturers can increase the shotgun’s value by offering secure and reliable attachment points for slings, which can improve comfort and accessibility during transport. Sling attachments cater to a wide range of users, from hunters who need to carry their shotgun in the field to law enforcement or home defense users requiring quick access. While the presence of sling attachments may not drastically affect market value, they contribute to the shotgun’s overall functionality and user-friendliness. Readers should recognize that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen sling attachments for the shotgun’s intended use and the user’s preferences.

Shell Holders

Shell holders customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the attachment of holders or carriers that provide easy access to additional shotgun shells. The impact on the shotgun’s market value is generally positive, as shell holders enhance the shotgun’s overall practicality and appeal, particularly for users who prioritize quick and efficient reloads. High-quality shell holders from reputable manufacturers can increase the shotgun’s value by making it more adaptable and appealing to those engaged in hunting, sport shooting, or tactical applications. These holders provide a convenient way to carry extra ammunition, ensuring that users have quick access to additional rounds when needed. While the presence of shell holders may not significantly impact market value, they contribute to the shotgun’s overall readiness and versatility. Readers should understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen shell holders for the shotgun’s intended use and the user’s preferences.

Magazine Followers

Magazine followers customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves replacing or upgrading the component inside the shotgun’s magazine tube that helps feed ammunition into the chamber. The impact on the shotgun’s market value is typically positive, as high-quality magazine followers from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s reliability and feeding performance. Upgraded followers can reduce the risk of feeding issues, improve the shotgun’s overall functionality, and make it more appealing to users who prioritize reliability in various shooting scenarios, including home defense or competitive shooting. While the presence of magazine followers may not drastically affect market value, they contribute to the shotgun’s overall dependability and user satisfaction. Readers should understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen magazine followers for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on improved reliability and performance.

Flashlights or Laser Sights

Customization with flashlights or laser sights for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves adding illumination or aiming devices to enhance target visibility and accuracy, especially in low-light conditions. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be positive, as high-quality lights or lasers from reputable manufacturers can improve the shotgun’s overall usability, making it more attractive to users who prioritize visibility and precision, such as home defense or law enforcement personnel. Well-chosen accessories can significantly enhance a shooter’s ability to identify and engage targets effectively in challenging lighting situations. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the lights or lasers chosen are of poor quality, affecting their reliability or alignment, which can hinder accuracy. It’s important for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality, performance, and suitability of the chosen lighting or laser accessories for the shotgun’s intended use, with a focus on enhancing visibility and precision.

Choke Tubes

Choke tubes customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the ability to change or adapt the shotgun’s choke constriction to suit different shooting scenarios. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be predominantly positive, as a variety of high-quality choke tubes from reputable manufacturers can increase the shotgun’s versatility and appeal to users who prioritize adaptability in their shooting activities. Choke tubes allow users to tailor the shotgun’s pattern and spread of shot pellets, optimizing performance for various targets and distances. This flexibility is particularly valuable for hunters and sport shooters who need to adapt quickly to different shooting situations. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the choke tubes chosen are of low quality or incompatible with the shotgun, affecting their performance or reliability. It’s essential for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen choke tubes for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on enhancing adaptability and performance.

Muzzle Devices

Muzzle devices customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the addition of specialized attachments to the shotgun’s muzzle, typically for reducing recoil, muzzle rise, or flash suppression. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can vary based on the type and quality of the muzzle device chosen. High-quality muzzle devices from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value by improving its recoil management, making it more appealing to users who prioritize recoil control and follow-up shots. Devices designed to reduce muzzle rise can aid in quicker target reacquisition, benefiting competitive shooters and those engaged in rapid-fire scenarios. While the presence of muzzle devices may not drastically affect market value, they contribute to the shotgun’s overall shooting comfort and performance. However, it’s essential for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen muzzle device for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on improving recoil control and overall shooting experience.

Porting

Porting customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the modification of the shotgun’s barrel by adding specially designed ports or vents to reduce felt recoil and muzzle rise. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be positive, as porting can improve the shotgun’s overall shooting comfort and appeal to users who prioritize recoil control and faster follow-up shots, such as competitive shooters or hunters. Well-executed porting can significantly enhance the shooter’s experience by mitigating recoil and minimizing muzzle flip, ultimately contributing to improved accuracy. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the porting is poorly executed, affecting the shotgun’s functionality, aesthetics, or even causing excessive noise and blast. It’s crucial for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and craftsmanship of the porting job, as well as its suitability for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on enhanced recoil control and shooting comfort.

Trigger Upgrades

Trigger upgrades customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involve modifying or replacing the shotgun’s trigger components to achieve a smoother, lighter, or more consistent trigger pull. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can vary based on the quality and type of trigger upgrade performed. High-quality trigger upgrades from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value by improving trigger performance, making it more appealing to users who prioritize accuracy and shooting control. A well-tuned trigger can contribute to better shot placement and overall shooting experience. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the trigger upgrade is poorly executed, leading to reliability issues or safety concerns. It’s essential for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality, craftsmanship, and suitability of the chosen trigger upgrade for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on improved trigger performance and shooting control.

Furniture Customization

Furniture customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves modifying or replacing various external components, such as the stock, forearm, or grip, to improve ergonomics, aesthetics, or functionality. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be diverse, depending on the specific customization and its execution. High-quality furniture upgrades from reputable manufacturers can enhance the shotgun’s overall value by offering improved comfort, adaptability, and visual appeal, making it more attractive to users who prioritize customization and personalization. Custom stocks, forearms, or grips can provide a better fit and improved handling, benefiting users in various shooting scenarios, from hunting to competitive shooting. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the customization negatively affects the shotgun’s balance, reliability, or aesthetics. It’s crucial for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality, craftsmanship, and suitability of the chosen furniture customization for the shotgun’s intended use, focusing on enhanced ergonomics and user satisfaction.

Custom Engravings

Custom engravings customization for the Benelli M3 shotgun involves the addition of intricate or personalized designs, patterns, or markings to the shotgun’s exterior, often for aesthetic or commemorative purposes. The impact on the shotgun’s market value can be variable, depending on the quality, uniqueness, and craftsmanship of the engraving work. High-quality custom engravings, especially those executed by skilled artisans, can significantly increase the shotgun’s value by enhancing its visual appeal and uniqueness, making it a coveted collector’s piece or an heirloom firearm. Custom engravings can also carry sentimental value, commemorating special occasions or personal preferences. However, the impact on market value may decrease if the engraving work is poorly executed or if the design does not resonate with potential buyers. It’s crucial for readers to understand that the effect on market value depends on the quality and suitability of the chosen custom engravings for the shotgun’s intended use, with a focus on enhancing aesthetics and personal significance.

History of the Benelli M3

The Benelli M3, produced by the renowned Italian firearms manufacturer Benelli Armi S.p.A., stands as a testament to decades of innovation and excellence in shotgun design. Its story begins in the late 20th century, a time when semi-automatic shotguns were rapidly evolving to meet the needs of various markets, including law enforcement, military, and civilian users.

The Benelli M3, initially introduced in the 1980s, represented a significant departure from traditional pump-action shotguns. What set it apart was its unique dual-operation system, allowing shooters to switch seamlessly between pump-action and semi-automatic modes with a simple flick of a lever. This innovative feature provided users with unparalleled versatility and adaptability in various shooting scenarios.

One of the key drivers behind the development of the Benelli M3 was its adoption by law enforcement and military agencies worldwide. Its robust and reliable design, combined with the ability to quickly switch between modes, made it an attractive choice for tactical applications. The shotgun’s reputation for reliability and ease of use contributed to its widespread adoption among specialized units and SWAT teams.

Over the years, the Benelli M3 underwent refinements and improvements, solidifying its position as a dependable and rugged firearm. Its design considerations also catered to civilian shooters, especially those interested in home defense and competitive shooting sports.

The Benelli M3’s impact on the firearms industry cannot be overstated. Its dual-operation system became a benchmark for versatility in shotguns, inspiring other manufacturers to explore similar designs. Benelli’s commitment to quality and innovation ensured that the M3 remained a popular choice among discerning shooters and collectors.

As the years progressed, the Benelli M3 continued to evolve, with variations and special editions catering to specific user needs. Its reputation for reliability, durability, and adaptability remained steadfast, making it a sought-after shotgun in both the law enforcement and civilian markets.

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Painting your goose decoys can be done with a few supplies and a little learning.

Let me make this SUPER easy for you to do by following my step-by-step directions on how to paint goose decoys.

Many people have used these instructions to make decoys that looked like they should have been thrown away to look brand new and ready to hunt over once again.

Supplies Needed

• Earth brown flat non-reflective spray paint
• Khaki flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black Flat oil based paint
• White Flat oil based paint
• Small paint brush
• Painters tape/masking tape
• Box cutter/knife
• Disposable/plastic gloves (optional)

Step 1: Clean and dry the decoys.

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape/masking tape covering the white tail feather area.

Step 3-11: Instantly download/view my complete FREE step-by-step instructions by clicking the button below.

Setting Up Your Painting Area

When it comes to prepping your workstation for your decoys, you should choose a space in the home that is free of traffic. Paint fumes can also be hazardous, so ensure the room or area has enough ventilation.

This will ensure that you are not disturbed throughout the process. You can set up your station on a big enough table and place some newspaper or material down so that you don’t stain your table.

Ensure that the tape is big enough to place your decoys, paint cans, brushes, and any other tools you are using for painting and that you have all of your tools on hand before beginning the process.

Also, ensure that the area is free of any dust and debris that could be get stuck to the paint and affect the finish on the painted decoys.

Using Masking Tape To Protect Areas

Masking tape is going to come in extremely handy in this process. The masking tape will be used to cover the right side feather area, the whitetail feather area as well as the white ring around the decoy neck.

Start by applying a 1/4 inch masking tape covering these three areas after you have cleaned and dried the decoys, but before you begin painting.

What Type Of Colors Should You Pick?

When it comes to painting a goose decoy, you should note that a goose can be any color from completely gray to completely white.

Male geese are also born with bright orange beaks, and the females have a brown beaks. As both of the sexes mature, the males will grow white feathers and keep the orange beak, and the females will grow gray feathers, and the beak will also change to orange.

So when it comes to choosing the colors for your decoys, bear this information in mind.

What Type Of Pattern Should You Go For?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you want them to look as realistic as possible. So this is the time that you need to make reference to the photo that you are referencing to paint decoys.

You want to add details to make them look realistic as well, and if the chest feathers are a different color than the body, then you need to use that specific color of paint across the chest at this time.

Ultimately, try to stick to the details of real geese and ensure that they look natural and realistic as much as you can. Although you may want to add some of your own creativity, if it means taking away from the realism of your decoy, then don’t do it.

Is There A Color Difference In Geese Based On Gender?

In most breeds, both the male and female geese look alike. So it’s quite difficult to tell them apart. In most cases, though, the goose is darker than the gander.

This is even evident when they are still quite small, and as they grow, most geese will resemble the Toulouse color while the gander will resemble the Emden.

How To Apply The Paint

When it comes down to deciding whether to spray paint your decoy or paint it with a brush, it all boils down to personal preference.

While some people may find it easier to spray-paint their decoys, others believe that they get more accuracy out of a paintbrush.

The good news is that there is no rule that says that you need to use either one or the other, and you can choose to use both.

When it comes to coloring larger areas of the goose, a spray can do the trick. However, when it comes to adding detail and painting areas such as the tail, feathers, or beak, using a specific-size paintbrush will give you more detail and accuracy.

Spray

Spray cans can be used for larger areas.

Brush

A paintbrush will help you achieve more detail.

How Long Should The Paint Dry?

If you are applying a primer, you should allow it to dry for approximately 20 minutes before adding paint. When painting, allow the paint 10 to 20 minutes of drying time is required before you apply another coat.

If you are using spray paint, then it’s going to dry quicker, and you’ll need approximately 10 minutes in order for it to dry completely.

When it comes to painting the beak, it is recommended that you use acrylic paint and allow it to dry for 10 minutes before applying any additional coats.

How Long Before You Can Deploy The Decoy To The Field?

Depending on whether you are using spray paint or paintbrushes to finish off your decoys, it can take anywhere between 1 to 3 hours before you use it.

So once you’ve completed painting the decoy, set it on a flat surface so it can dry consistently.

You should check on it 2 to 3 hours later, and if the paint is completely dry, then you are ready to set your decoy out in the woods and use it as you please.

Will Geese Be Able To Tell The Difference Based On Smell?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you should do it well in advance. This will give the paint enough time to dry thoroughly and also get the smell of paint fumes off the decoys.

However, as long as the decoys look realistic, that is no reason why geese will not commit.

Should You Apply Coatings To Make Your Paint Last Longer?

Yes, there is no rule that says that you cannot use extra coats of paint on your decoys to ensure that the paint lasts longer. However, it is recommended that you only purchase a satin finish, latex paint.

This is because satin-finish does not contain any type of gloss and is the right sheen for painting decoys.

Ultimately, if you invest in any type of paint or say a high gloss paint, it’s going to make your decoys look shiny, and unless you’ve seen a shiny goose, this is sure to make other geese flare instead of committing.

So if you want to avoid this from happening, ensure that the paint you use on your decoys looks as natural to the real thing as possible.

You Might Also Read: Duck Hunting Decoy Tips

Many people these days are transitioning from living in a city to living in the woods. And while it may seem like an unwise decision, living somewhere remote and secluded can give a lot of people the peace of mind they need. If you’re thinking of making the move to living in the woods, there are a few things that you should know to survive. Read on to find out how you can survive living in the woods.

Tips To Survive Living in the Woods

If you’ve lived in the city for a long time, you might find yourself longing for the simplicity of life in the woods. Though it may seem challenging, surviving in the wilderness is possible with the proper preparation. Here are a few tips to help you survive living in the woods:

1. Secure Your Home

The very first thing you need to do is make sure your home is secure. If you’re living in a cabin or some other type of small dwelling, fortify it as much as possible. Board up the windows, build a strong door and stockpile supplies. It’s also essential to have a good stash of weapons and ammunition on hand in case you need to defend your home from intruders. Make sure to check a review of the best survival rifles so that you’re prepared for anything.

Having a good relationship with your neighbors is essential in an area like this. If you can, try to team up with them and create a fortress where everyone can be safe.

2. Know Your Surroundings

Another important tip is to get to know your surroundings. Learn which plants are edible, where the freshwater sources are, and what animals you can expect to encounter. It’s also a good idea to familiarize yourself with the area’s weather patterns to prepare for extreme conditions.

If you take the time to learn about your surroundings and prepare for the worst, you’ll be much more likely to survive living in the woods.

3. Find a Source of Water

When you first move into the woods, one of the most important things you’ll need to do is find a water source. This can be a stream, river, lake, or natural spring. Once you’ve found a water source, you’ll need to purify the water before drinking it. Boiling the water for at least five minutes will kill any harmful bacteria.

While it’s not to say that you won’t have access to clean water from where you’ll be living, there is a possibility that you might lose water often because of things like power outages or line breaks. So, it’s always good to have a backup plan in place.

Another way to ensure that you always have a clean water supply is to collect rainwater. This can be done by simply placing a few barrels or buckets outside during a storm. Once the rain stops, you can use this water for drinking, cooking, or even bathing.

4. Learn How To Catch Fish and Hunt

One of the best ways to ensure that you have a steady food supply is to learn how to catch fish and hunt. This will not only provide you with a fresh source of food but can also be a fun activity to do in your spare time.

If you don’t want to eat meat, you still have plenty of options. There are many edible plants and berries that grow in the woods. With some research, you’ll be able to identify which ones are safe to eat.

While you can always head to town to purchase food, it’s always a good idea to have some stored away in an emergency. Canned goods, dried fruit, and nuts are all great options for long-term storage.

5. Stock up on Essentials

Living in the woods means not having easy access to civilization. Therefore, it’s important to stock up on essential supplies like food, water, and medicine. You should also have a first-aid kit on hand in case of injury. This should include essential items like bandages, antiseptic wipes, and pain relievers. It’s also a good idea to keep a few extra blankets around in case the temperature drops.

6. Learn Basic Survival Skills

Living in the woods would not be possible if you didn’t know some basic survival skills. Building a fire, purifying water, and shelter-building are all essential for surviving in the wild. There are many resources available that can teach you these skills. You can find books, websites, and even YouTube videos showing you what to do in different situations. Make sure to check these resources out before your move. This way, you’ll be prepared for anything that comes your way.

7. Watch Out for Wild Animals

Wild animals are one of the most dangerous things you’ll need to watch out for while living in the woods. Many animals call the woods their home, and only some of them are friendly. Bears, cougars, and snakes are just a few of the potential dangers you’ll need to be aware of.

The best way to avoid run-ins with wild animals is to ensure you’re always aware of your surroundings. If you see an animal, make a lot of noise so that it knows you’re there and will hopefully avoid you. You should always carry a weapon with you in case you come face-to-face with an aggressive animal.

So, there you have it! These are just a few of the things you’ll need to know if you’re planning on living in the woods. With a little bit of preparation, you can make sure that your experience is a positive one. In time, you’ll find that living in the woods is an enriching experience. Make sure to take care of yourself and always be aware of your surroundings.

We have some great new Thermal Rifle Scopes in 2024. Here is a list of my Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024. We are currently in the process of reviewing them and will be posting videos on The Old Deer Hunters Youtube Channel.

ALL Scopes Available at Outdoorlegacygear.com

Pulsar Thermion 2 DUO D XP50 Thermal/Day Scope

Best Thermal/Day Scope – Multi-spectral

Pulsar Night Vision has release the Pulsar Thermion 2 Duo DXP50, the first multi spectral hunting riflescope. It combines thermal imaging with of full-colour daytime optics to provide the hunter with a true night or day hunting scope.

Thermal Image for Night Hunting – Full Color Digital Image for Day Hunting

The Pulsar Thermion 2 Duo DXP50 is based on the Thermion 2 XP50 Pro, plus a 4k full-color channel for daytime hunting.

The Thermal can be use in darkness, fog or rain, and the 4k resolution digital camera gives you a clear, full color image during the day. Plus you can record your hunts.It requires only one click of a button to switch between the two channels – thermal and daytime digital. It’s simple, fast and convenient.

Using the Thermion Duo DXP50 as a daytime riflescope is simple and easy as the lens does not require focusing. The daytime digital channel gives you a focused image at any range.

There is an equal field of view for both thermal and digital channels. You can easily switch between thermal and digital without compromising focus on the observed object and clearly identify your target any time or any weather condition.

The new riflescope is equipped with a high-sensitivity European-made Lynred sensor with < 25 mK NETD which unprecedented heat separation when observing in low temperature contrast conditions such as rain or fog.

The 640×480 pixel resolution ensures exemplary detail and identification of the target and the surrounding landscape. The size of the sensor allows for a wide field of view for comfortable and informative observation of both static and dynamic scenes.

Just like the Thermion 2 LRF, the Thermion Duo DXP50 features high-precision ambidextrous focusing knobs. They now come with a fin lever, which perfectly does the job for precise focusing of the thermal channel. Positioned on both sides of the scope, the knobs make this device comfortable for both left- and right-handed users.

High-definition digital zoom allows the hunter to zoom-in with up to eight times magnification without loosing image quality—ideal for long-distance shooting. One of the Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024.

See our Christmas Gifts Suggestions For Hunters

Pulsar Thermion 2 LRF XG50 Thermal Scope

Best ALL PURPOSE Thermal Scope

The 2024 Pulsar Thermion 2 LRF XG50 is a new thermal rifle scope with a lot of improvements over the original Thermion XG50 introduced a couple of years ago. It has a new thermal sensor, Laser Range Finding (LRF) capability, magnification of 3X-24X and is priced at $6000.

The Thermion 2 LRF XG50 has a new sensor for improved image quality and overall performance. The original XG50 used a BAE sensor, but it did not quite live up to normal Pulsar performance standards.

Fast forward to 2024 and Pulsar has upgraded from the Thermion XG50 to the Thermion 2 series. The Pulsar Thermion 2 LRF XG50 now has a new 12-micron Lynred thermal sensor for improved image quality and overall performance. Plus, it now has laser range finding capability and Stream Vision Ballistics software (coming soon) that actually plots the aiming point for the target. (more about that later).

The combination of LRF and 3X base magnification make this scope ideal for coyote hunters who have to often deal with longer shots than hog hunters. It is also great for hog hunters because the field of view is 46 feet wide at 100 yard. The LRF is a good option for all hunters because it is so difficult to judge distance at night.

The new Thermion 2 LRF XG50 is a 640×480 high definition thermal rifle scope. The differences between the new Thermion 2 LRF XG50 and the Thermion 2 XP50 Pro are the magnification range and the different types of thermal sensors.

The XP50 Pro has a magnification range of 2-16X with a 17-micoron <25 MKv sensor. The Thermion 2 LRF XG50 has a magnification range of 3-24X with a 12-micron <40 MKv sensor. I compared these scopes side by side, and both have about the best image available in this price range of under $6000.

The Big Question everyone has “Is the XG50 image quality as good as the XP50?”

The Thermion 2 XP50 Pro has a little better heat separation capability so the image may be a little better in bad weather. The Pulsar Thermion 2 LRF XG50 has a 12-micron sensor that makes the animal appear larger in the screen with more detail. Lets take a look side by side and see how they compare in the video below.

After testing the two scopes side by side, the answer to the Big Question is YES! The image of the LRF XG50 is as good as the XP50 Pro.

The image of the Thermion 2 LRF XG50 is as good or maybe better because you can see more detail of the target animal, and the detail of the background is not bad either. Just look at the video abovw to see for yourself. One may be better than the other in different weather conditions, but on a good thermal night, they are both great. The video shows you a good image, but the image in the scope is even better. You will be very pleased with the image quality.

Hunting With The Thermion 2 LRF XG50 is totally enjoyable. There are no “I wish my scope had…) thoughts going through your mind. I think it has the perfect magnification range, a superior image and with all the features of a Pulsar Thermion 2, you can hardly ask for more. One of the Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024.

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InfiRay Bolt V2 TH50c Thermal Scope

Best Thermal Scope For Coyote Hunting

The new InfiRay Bolt TH50c V2 now has audio recording in 2024 to go with one of the best thermal scope images available on the market.

The InfiRay Bolt TH50-C Thermal Riflescope is the latest addition to the Bolt series of thermal rifle scopes and is distributed in the United States by IRay USA. The InfiRay Bolt TH50 3.5x14x5 has a 640×512 12-micron thermal processor, 3.5X base magnification, and a 50mm objective lens. It is a tube-type thermal scope that looks very much like a traditional glass scope which makes it more user-friendly for bolt-action rifles. Of course, it is right at home on a modern sporting rifle as well. The image is displayed on an OLED screen, with a 2560×2560 pixels resolution. It has all the features needed to be a great scope and carries a price tag of $5495.

Features Include:

• High-Resolution 640X512 Sensor
• Rugged Aircraft Aluminum Housing
• Internal Recording
• Wifi connectivity with InfiRay Outdoor App
• 8 Hour internal battery
• 18500 Removable/Rechargeable Battery Capable (4hrs)
• Full Circular Display
• Tactile Turret Adjustment
• 30mm Mounting versatility
• Weighs 33 ounces

I was very happy to see InfiRay and IRayUSA offer the new Bolt series of Thermal Rifle Scopes. I have to say I am a fan of the new tube-type thermal rifle scopes. Not only do they work much better on my bolt action Tikka T3, but they are much easier to use. The controls are handier to use in the dark than the older models with just a row of buttons on top. Zooming is done with the top turret knob. The power, record, brightness, and palette buttons are grouped together on top of the eyepiece making it very convenient.

Overall, the InfiRay Bolt TH50-C is one of the best thermal scopes I have used. It has an excellent image, is solidly built, comes with a 5-year warranty, but most of all it is easy to use. If your main hunting interest is coyotes, there is nothing in this price range that will beat the overall capability of this scope. The scope has excellent image quality, the dual battery system gives you 8-10 hours of battery life with inexpensive 18500 backup power in your pocket. Controls that hunters use the most at the tip of your fingers. It may not record audio, but it is a coyote killing machine. One of the Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024 I have tested.

If you buy this scope, you will not be disappointed. AVAILAVABLE at Outdoorlegacygear.com

Best Compact Thermal LRF Scope

The AGM Varmint LRF TS50-640 2.5-20X Thermal Rifle Scope is AGM’s top-of-the-line laser range-finding thermal scope. This new thermal rifle scope gives you a great image and a built-in, easy-to-use Laser Range Finder for under $4995. In addition, this new scope is powered by a single rechargeable 18650 battery that will give you up to 4-6 hours of hunting time on a single charge.

The AGM Varmint TS50-640 2.5-20X LRF is a compact thermal scope with laser range finding capability. It uses a 640×512 resolution, 12-micron thermal processor. It has a base magnification of 2.5X and a digital zoom to 20X. The AGM Varmint LRF TS50-640 2.5-20X has a 1024×768 OLED screen and provides an excellent image day or night.

This optic can be used as a thermal riflescope or handheld monocular and can be applied to scenarios such as patrolling, hunting, and static observation. It is only 8.5 long × 2.6 wide × 4.2 in tall and weighs less than 25 ounces.

The built-in laser range finder of the AGM Varmint LRF is accurate out past 600 yards. It has a small box on the screen that you bracket the target in, then a single push of a button gives you the range that is displayed in the upper right corner. The range has a single or continuous 15-second scanning mode.

One 18650 rechargeable battery gives the device up to 6 hours of continuous operation time on a high-grade fully charged battery. Compared to a similar scope using CR123 batteries, the Varmint’s 18650 rechargeable battery will save you about $10 per hunt. Two 18650 batteries are provided with the scope.

An external 5V power bank (battery pack) can be used via a USB to USB-C connector but you probably won’t need it if you charge the two supplied batteries before your hunt. The device has 16 Gig’s of storage for onboard video recording and image capturing. It does not capture audio. An internal Wi-Fi module for live video streaming and video/image recording via the T-Vision application are included.

Another plus for this thermal riflescope is the mount. It comes from the factory with the excellent American Defense Manufacturing single lever quick detachable mount at no extra charge. This single lever configuration is not only secure but makes reattaching the scope to the rifle quick and easy without a need to re-zero. One of the Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024.

N-Vision Optics Halo-XRF Thermal Scope

Best Thermal Scope On The Market <$10K

The N-Vision Optics Halo-XRF Thermal Scope is arguably the best thermal scope on the market. It is priced at $9,495.00. Based on the American made BAE thermal core, it has a fantastic image even above the base magnification. It also runs on 18650 batteries and has an ADM QD mount. One of the Best 5 Thermal Scopes 2024 – actually the best of all.

If you can afford this scope, buy it and you will be extremely happy.

See N-Vison Halo XRF Video Review Here

AVAILAVABLE at Outdoorlegacygear.com

Specifications

Calibration (NUC) Manual: Manual

Identification range: 380 yards Display Type: OLED 640&times;480 B&W Size: 8.9 x 4.1 x 3.4 inches Recognition range: 726 yards

Detection range: 2020 yards

Power: two 18650 batteries

Digital Zoom: 1x/2x/4x/8x

Sensor Pixel Pitch: 12 um

Remote power: USB 5.0V

Resolution: 640 x 480

Magnification: 3.5x

Refresh Rate: 60 Hz

Weight: 41.5 oz

Lens: 50mm F1.1

Focus: Fixed