Fishing always seems like a simple, laid-back event. It’s usually a family-bonding experience accompanied by a slow, leisurely boat ride and a picnic. You catch a few fish, maybe grill some, then release the rest.

As with most things, there are outliers to this stereotype. Instead of a calm and easy affair, an angling trip can also turn into a strenuous game of tug-of-war between you and a giant inhabitant of the seas.

Regular-sized fish may be the norm, but there are also people who have caught large, record-breaking creatures with just their trusty rod and reel. Here are some of the largest fish ever caught over the years.

3,427-Pound Great White Shark, New York, 1986

The biggest fish recorded to be caught on rod and reel is a controversial one. In August 1986, Frank Mundus and Donnie Braddick caught a 3,427-pound great white shark off the coast of Montauk in New York.

The two anglers were reportedly using a 150-lb test line on a group of white sharks. According to a 2005 recounting of Mundus himself, their fight to reel in the shark went on for a total of one hour and 40 minutes.

A Controversial Record Breaker

Unfortunately, the catch is considered to be controversial. There are accusations that Mundus was only able to catch the great white shark after fishing by a dead whale. The dead whale allegedly attracted the sharks, which allowed Mundus and Braddick to bait and reel it in. This violates the record rules of the International Game Fish Association (IGFA).

However, according to Mundus, his boat pulled up to an already dead whale. By his account, the whale had large bloody bite marks the size of peach baskets and still had blood coming out of its mouth. He claims he and Braddick waited by the whale until midnight, when two sharks slammed into the whale.

IGFA-Approved Honorable Mentions

Although the 3,000-plus pound great white shark that Mundus and Braddick caught is tangled up in some controversy, there have been plenty more large catches over the decades that are recognized and approved by the IGFA.

The five official largest fish ever caught on rod and reel while saltwater fishing are the following:

2,664-Pound Great White Shark, Australia, 1959

The contested and official largest fish caught on rod and reel are both great white sharks but are almost 1,000 pounds and over 30 years apart.

The official IGFA-approved record is held by Alfred Dean, who caught a 2,664-pound great white shark while angling in Ceduna, Australia back in April 1959. Since great white sharks have become a protected species today, this record-breaking catch will likely stay unbeaten for years to come.

1,785-Pound Tiger Shark, Australia, 2004

The next largest fish ever caught by an angler using only a rod and a reel is another shark caught much more recently. This time, it was a tiger shark weighing 1,785 pounds and 11 ounces. It was caught by Kevin J. Clapson in ULladulla, Australia in March 2004.

This catch is tied with another record-setting catch from 1964 by Walter Maxwell. The only difference between the two catches was 11 ounces, leading the IGFA to rule in favor of a tie.

1,708-Pound Greenland Shark, Norway, 1987

In October 1987, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught another large shark while angling in Trondheimsfjord, Norway. He used a herring as bait to reel in a Greenland shark. The fish weighed a total of 1,708 pounds 9 ounces.

Greenland sharks are one of the largest living species of sharks in the world. It can grow up to seven meters or 23 feet long and live up to 500 years old, based on radiocarbon dating.

1,560-Pound Black Marlin, Peru, 1953

The next largest fish ever caught on rod and reel is a welcome change from the shark family that dominate the top three spots. Taking the fourth spot is a gigantic black marlin caught off the coast of Cabo Blanco in northern Peru in August 1953.

The 1,560-pound black marlin was caught by angling legend Alfred C. Glassell, Jr., who used a 130-lb line class and bait. This catch is one of the longest-standing IGFA world records. This particular fish can still be seen as part of a permanent exhibition in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

1,496-Pound Bluefin Tuna, Canada, 1979

Another non-shark entry rounds up the last spot in the top five largest fish caught by rod and reel. In October 1979, renowned heavy-tackle angler Ken Fraser used a mackerel as bait to reel in a 1,496-pound bluefin tuna. The huge fish was caught in Aulds Cove, off the coast of Nova Scotia, Canada.

This region is known for its bluefin tuna fishery. However, Fraser’s heavy-tackle angling record remains unbeaten to this day.

Making It Big

When it comes to saltwater fishing, a huge part of what gets you catches the size of those on this list is luck, patience, and perseverance. Of course, having the best fishing tackle matters too.

Increase your chances of catching record-breaking fish with Rite Angler’s high-quality tackle. We offer products designed for success and made with anti-corrosive materials for better durability to withstand stormy seas, the blazing sun, and the biggest catch.

Rite Angler has been the partner of many fishers and anglers since our founding in 1990, providing reliable terminal tackle and other fishing equipment for men and women serious about improving their fishing game.

Check out our website and order superior lures, lines, and tackle for your next fishing trip, today!

A Damascus Sword is any sword forged by Damascus Steel, high-grade steel made from Indian wootz steel using an ancient technology that was lost to history. Their surfaces might have vibrant whirling patterns. Damascus Steel, like Japanese folded steel, is the subject of numerous imaginative quality exaggerations, with swords claiming to be able to cut neatly through falling silk and cleave rocks in half.

The origin of the steel for the sword.

The term “Damascus Steel” has a hazy history. Two Islamic philosophers named Al-Kindi and Al-Biruni (approximately 800-873 CE) wrote about swords and the steels used to make them, describing them according to their look, the place where they were made or forged, or the name of the blacksmith. Additionally, both scholars cite “damscene” or “damascus” in parts of their descriptions of the swords.

How is Damascus steel made?

Since this process and expertise were lost in the 1700s, anyone who says their knives are made of Damascus steel does not refer to the original way they used to make them.

This steel was initially created by casting wootz, a type of steel first made in India more than 2000 years ago. In the third and fourth centuries, the city of Damascus, now known as modern-day Syria, saw a rise in the use of weapons and other objects fashioned of wootz.

Although several efforts have been made to reverse engineer the method for producing Damascus steel, no one has been able to cast an equivalent material.

Cast wootz steel was created by melting iron and steel with charcoal in an oxygen-free environment. Following the metal’s carbon absorption from charcoal, the alloy underwent a lengthy cooling process that produced a crystalline substance containing carbide.

Damascus steel is made by forging wootz into swords and other weaponry. However, this procedure was only available to the elite because it took great ability to maintain steady temperatures to manufacture steel with the iconic signature wavy pattern.

Why choose Damascus steel for swords?

Many producers choose between 2-5 alloys that work well together and create a beautiful pattern as a vital component in the process. Once the knife has been forged and ground to shape, the waves of steel meet at the edge, and you can change the blade’s performance by adjusting the alloy and heat treatment process.

If you want to acquire a high-quality Damascus steel sword, do your research and approach it as an investment.

Damascus steel is distinguished by its extraordinary hardness and a wet, streaked look created by the original material’s fluctuating carbon levels. Sometimes a single bar is welded together from different types of steel. Next, the bar is doubled over, welded, redoubled, and rewelded until the various layers of steel entangle, which is worked out to form the blade. 

The patterns created due to quenching and polishing are distinct and complicated. Damascus swords are primarily appraised by their wetness, which indicates the steel’s quality.

Conclusion

Finally, most of today’s highly exotic alloys outperform any pattern-welded steel. Therefore, having and using a Damascus steel blade is more about personal taste and respect for the time and effort it takes to create such a blade.

A well-made Damascus sword will hold its sharpness for longer than most production-quality blades, although the highest-performing blade steel may be found elsewhere.

Quality is mainly influenced by price. Damascus steel from a reputable manufacturer is of the finest quality. Knives manufactured from these steels are exceptional. 

Unfortunately, low-cost knockoffs from China, Pakistan, and India flood the market, frequently appearing on eBay and other online merchants. Avoid them because they are trash; as the saying goes, if the price is too reasonable to be true, it probably is.

For the past couple of decades, I’ve held the belief that deer move more in the rain. Not heavy rain, mind you, but light to moderate precipitation. I can count the number of times I’ve sat in a treestand or ground blind, had little deer movement, and then they came out of the woodworks as the rain started falling from the sky.

I killed my biggest buck ever in the rain, which I self-filmed for Realtree’s Monster Bucks.

I sat through a steady rain shower, and as it began to subside, deer poured out of the bedding area in front of me. First, a couple of nice 2-year-olds. Then a yearling buck. Then the giant velvet 8-pointer. Even more bucks, does, and fawns walked out afterward. They all fed out in the clover in front of me, all while it misted rain. Eventually, I got a shot opportunity and made it count.

That wasn’t the only incident I’ve seen or shot deer during or just after a rain event. It’s happened numerous times.

That said, I think rain is more likely to get deer on their feet on warmer days, especially during the early season. Generally, rain cools you down, which gives deer reprieve from the heat, effectively getting them up on their feet.

I think rain showers that occur mid- to late-afternoon have even more power to get deer up and moving. When conditions align with crepuscular (dawn and dusk) movement, I believe it increases deer activity, even more than crepuscular movements without additional triggers.

But I’m not a biologist, and my experiences aren’t peer-reviewed research studies. So, let’s look at some deer science.

What’s Does Research Show about Deer Movement in the Rain?

Several colleges with teams dedicated to whitetail biology and behavior have attempted to address this question. While general whitetail behavior isn’t the focus of most wildlife agencies and DNRs (they focus on resource management), even some of them have studied the impact of rain on whitetail movement.

said Levi Jaster, a big game program coordinator for the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks.

Moriah Boggess, a deer biologist with the Indiana DNR, initially expressed similar input.

Some Research Shows More Deer Movement in Light to Moderate Rainfall

Interestingly, some biologists and experts have discovered data or had experiences that suggest deer do, in fact, move more, if only slightly, during light to moderate rainfall. Both Boggess and Jaster have mixed feelings on the subject.

Boggess says that other researchers have found light rain can increase deer movement, but heavy rain can decrease it. Still, he says there is no consistent effect of rain across all the whitetail’s range. That’s a reasonable conclusion, though, mainly since whitetails inhabit a very diverse range of climates and habitats.

Despite the inconclusive research studies, Boggess’ own experiences suggest deer do move more during light rain.

Even Jaster relays that there might be something to it.

The scientific results on record are still inconclusive. The conclusion on whether or not deer move in the rain is likely somewhere in-between. Fortunately, you can test this theory on your own.

Some Pros and Cons of Hunting in the Rain

Rain can impact other aspects of deer hunting, too. General deer movement isn’t the only factor. Understanding how it limits hunters and how hunters can leverage it is important to know.

For example, most people believe that light rain and moisture increase the effectiveness of a deer’s nose. Boggess says,

Other negatives apply, too. Jaster says,

Don’t forget the positive aspects, though. It also helps to wash away scent, so there might be both positives and negatives.

The most significant advantage to rain might be quiet walking, though.

Boggess notes that rain softens twigs and leaves, which offers perfect stalking conditions. On rainy days, perhaps slowly still hunt and scout your way through deer habitat. Jaster says rain and wind likely make it more challenging to see hunters’ movements, too. So, that’s good.

Overall, it’s still not completely understood whether or not deer move more in the rain.

But I think deer tend to move more during light rainfall, especially during the early season when temperatures are warmer and when the rain event occurs in the early morning or late afternoon. Perhaps only the deer I hunt like their salad with dressing, but I doubt that’s true.

No matter what, the more deer data you can start accumulating, especially from the deer you hunt, the better. You might discover some exciting things about the specific deer you hunt.

What location has caught the most blue marlin over 1,000 pounds?

This question was recently posted on social media, and asked everyone around the world to count up the granders (marlin weighing 1,000 pounds or more) caught from their home waters. We wanted to see, statistically, which location would stand out as the best place in the world to catch a grander blue.

Utilizing the Hawaii Fishing News Grander list, we counted up about 144 from Hawaii.

With that in mind, the following may be inexact, but it will give you a pretty dang good idea where the granders were caught in Hawaii:

Big Island: 87Oahu: 43Maui: 7Molokai: 3 (Two were caught the same day!)Kauai: 2

Of all the grander marlin caught in Hawaii, however, three fish stand out as extremely noteworthy catches. These fish include Capt. George Parker’s 1,002-pound blue marlin caught in 1954, the first grander in Hawaii. Capt. Bobby Brown’s 1,376-pound blue caught in 1982, a world record that still stands today. And, the largest marlin ever caught on rod and reel, Capt. Cornelius Choy’s 1,805-pound blue caught in 1970.

The best “Big Fish” months appear to be July with 21 granders, while June and March each have 20. May has tallied 14 granders, with 13 caught in August, 12 landed in April 12 and 10 in September. The winter months of October through February average less than five, but for some reason January posts nine, which offsets the lowest months of November and December, with three each.

June 10, 1970 is an especially notable date because it was on this day that Choy brought in his monster marlin. This year, on June 10 and 11 the Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series will pay homage to Choy’s 1,800-pounder at Leg One of the aeries, The Kewalo Big Fish Chase.

A $75,000 bounty has been placed on Choy’s monster and whoever catches a marlin larger than 1,805 pounds will walk away with the purse. Jungle rules do apply, in deference to the favorite way of fishing by Oahu folks. However the rod and reel must adhere to IGFA tackle specs. This “bounty” is open only to teams entered in the Kewalo Big Fish Chase. There’s also a guaranteed $10,000 purse to be split among the largest marlin, ahi, mahi and ono – on top of the purse generated from the $500.00 per team entry fee.

Rules for the Bounty and the tournament can be found at: http://konatournaments.com/events/kewalo-harbor-big-fish-chase/

HONARABLE MENTION

During the online discussion, folks from all over the world chimed in, but in the end, it was apparent that Hawaii is still the Blue Marlin Grander Capital of the World. Honorable mention went to Madeira, Cape Verde and the Canary Islands. Mauritius was noted as holding the potential to give Hawaii a run for its money, if only it had a large fleet of boats. They estimated 40 granders weighed in Mauritius with the largest weighing 1,430 pounds. Very respectful!

An interesting tidbit from the conversation was that known hot spots that catch large numbers of blue marlin such as St. Thomas, Panama and Costa Rica had very few granders to speak of. That doesn’t discount the great fishing that the offer, with the Costa Rica FAD fishing reporting sometimes 20+ blue marlin a day – from one boat!

Capt. Bomboy Llanes caught a 1,258.4-pound blue marlin back in 2003 at the Firecracker Open tournament, and it was long thought to be the largest marlin ever caught in a tournament. However, Capt. Tim Dean chimed in from Australia and reminded is that he weighed a 1,278-pound black marlin at the Lizard Island Black Marlin Classic.

Therefore, Bomboy had to adjust his claim to having caught the “largest blue marlin in a tournament, anywhere in the world.” Small adjustment for such a big fish, on a world-wide scale.

The story of Molly Palmer went viral back in 2012 when she was fishing in the Big Island Marlin Tournament. She refused to cheat and decided to disqualify a 1,022-pound marlin that was not only the tournament winner but also a potential woman’s world record because of a technicality.

Going in to its 31st year, the eight tournament Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series, the features the return of Taj Mahal and the Hula Blues Band in their only performance for the year. Taj will be taking a break from the TajMo tour with Keb Mo, following the release of their new record “TAJMO” featuring cameos by Bonnie Raitt and more.

Taj had his own tournament in Costa Rica for a few years and loves to fish. Last year at the BIMT he tagged and released a marlin to get back in the groove. This year he has a brand new plan.

For a complete schedule of all eight events in the $1.5 million Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series visit www.konatournaments.com

Ever wondered how big is a moose compared to a human? Adult Moose usually measure up to 9 feet (2.8 meters) in terms of body length. Compared to a human, the average moose has a much bigger body overall, while also having a total body mass that is in the range of ten times that of a person at the same height.

A common sight in the colder regions of North America, moose are generally friendly creatures that pose little of a threat when approached. They’re known for their distinctive calls, deer-like antlers, and their bulbous noses that make them easy to tell apart from deer or elk.

But how big can a moose get, compared to a human?

Moose are the biggest representatives of the deer family, and a single look at one will tell you why. Larger than any horse, deer, or other hoofed animals, the moose towers above most mammals including us humans. If you want to know more fascinating facts about moose and their impressive bodies, feel free to take a look at our quick fact sheet below!

Related Reading: Do Moose Come Out in the Rain?

How Tall is a Moose?

While it is easy to see that moose are incredibly massive animals, and their bodies can easily dwarf those of us human beings, there is the question of how tall moose really are, not just how big overall. Being four-hoofed animals that never walk upright, the total body dimensions of a moose are a bit misleading when it comes to visualizing just how large a moose looks when put next to a human.

Adult moose measure about 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.2 meters) in height when measured at the shoulder. However, when the head and antlers are taken into account and the moose stands tall, this figure can eclipse 10 feet (3 meters).

As you can tell, the measurement of a moose’s height paints a different picture than the sole body length numbers alone – however, it should still be quite clear to see that moose are gigantic animals, and even smaller specimens will have us, humans, walking in their shadows due to their sheer mass and size.

How Big Can a Moose Get?

Over the course of a moose’s life cycle, their bodies change and develop quite radically, just like ours. Therefore, how big a moose can get depends on a few factors.We’ve laid everything out in the quick overview below. It should give you everything you need to know about the dimensions of a moose.

• First note that moose exhibit sexual dimorphism, i.e. females are of different size and appearance than males. A female moose will not grow antlers, and is on average about 60-70% the body mass of a comparable male
• There are a few recognized subspecies of moose, the largest of which is the Alaskan moose. The so-called Taiga moose, which is common across Central Europe, Russia, and parts of Kazakhstan, is noticeably smaller
• As moose age, their bodies grow larger and stronger. Male moose start growing antlers after about a year of age, and they renew them after every mating season. At their peak, the antlers alone can be over 6 feet (1.8 meters) long, somewhat shorter in the case of Eurasian moose
• Moose calves are about the same size as horse calves, but they grow very quickly and reach adult size after a year
• The biggest moose ever confirmed was a male Alaskan moose shot in 1897 – it measured 7.6 feet (230 centimeters) tall at the shoulders and weighed 1,800 pounds (816 kilograms)

Why Are Moose So Big?

While it is obvious that moose are some of the largest herbivores found in North America and Eurasia, the less obvious fact is the answer to the question of why their bodies are as massive as they are.

The truth is that moose need to be so large in order to properly survive in their natural habitat. The cold temperatures and harsh seasons that moose often experience in Alaska and Siberia have effected great evolutionary pressure on these animals – and it shows.

Moose have many tricks up their sleeves in order to cope with their home climate. For example, their many hairs are hollow on the inside, which helps them insulate for added warmth.

The incredible weight that moose pack on is also no coincidence – large volumes of fat storage provides another way to weather the freezing temperatures outside, so moose like to keep themselves well-fed.

And in turn, this excessive body weight needs to be supported by strong limbs and muscles – which is why the body of a moose needs to reach its uniquely humongous dimensions in order for these animals to thrive.

In fact, when moose are introduced to warmer climates (as is unfortunately the case more and more often these days as areas historically populated by moose undergo climate change), their bodies suffer greatly. They lose weight, experience chronic stress, and female moose will also develop fertility issues.

All in all, the short answer for why moose are so big is that they have evolved more so than almost any other four-hoofed herbivore to survive exceptionally well in the cold.

No wonder, then, that there is only one animal that shares the moose’s habitat and can rival it in size – the bison, another mammal whose gigantic body is mostly the result of evolutionary pressures intended to make it easier to survive freezing winters.

Related Reading: Can You Ride a Moose? Has It Ever Been Done?

How Big Are Moose Antlers?

The antlers are easily the most recognizable aspect of the moose’s appearance. However, just like deer, moose “renew” their antlers every season, and with each passing year the antlers grow longer, taller, and more intricate. It should also be noted that female moose (cows) never grow antlers.

The antlers of an adult male moose are typically up to 6 feet (1.8 meters) long end-to-end. The moose with the longest antlers are by far the Alaskan variety, while Eurasian moose tend to display slightly shorter specimens.

The antlers of a moose can add significantly to the animal’s overall size, though most formal measurements of moose are based on the height measured at the shoulders.

Why Are Moose Antlers So Big?

Though they add a lot of distinctiveness to the visual appearance of a moose, it is a question worth asking why moose grow their antlers to such an impressive size to begin with.

The antlers of the moose are used for display purposes, indicating a male’s sexual prowess and overall health and strength. If multiple males compete over a single female, they will actually use their antlers to fight. The victor is then generally taken to have the stronger antlers, and by extension the stronger, healthier body with the superior genes. Therefore, natural selection has led to most moose growing impressively large, intricately-shaped antlers.

The moose’s antlers might not be as significant to the animal’s daily lifestyle as most other parts of their bodies – however, when mating season strikes, their antlers are their number one tool of choice in order to attract the perfect mate. And in cases of rivalry between male moose, they can serve as potent weapons and displays of strength!

Are Moose Dangerous?

Now that you know all the basic facts about the size of the average moose you might encounter in the wild, you might be a bit worried that these large animals with their weapon-like antlers could pose a threat to your or your loved ones. But is it true that moose are dangerous animals?

While moose are certainly massive and strong enough to cause serious damage to people and their property, they are not very aggressive animals. Generally speaking, it is hard to provoke them, and incidents where moose attack humans have been incredibly rare throughout history.

The moose is not an animal that will charge or attack a random bystander for no good reason. As long as you keep your distance and do not make any moves that could be considered threatening, you should be perfectly safe.

If a moose does charge you, it is also a good idea to flee and not try to do anything to calm it or go any closer – moose can run at 35 mph (56 kph), and they generally only let go once they realize that their aggressor has given up.

Continue Reading: How Long Is Moose Meat Good in the Freezer? [ANSWERED]

Many different types of nut trees grow naturally in Ohio or have been brought from other places.

These trees produce delicious nuts and beautify the landscapes of the state. We’ll learn about the unique characteristics of each tree, where they prefer to grow, and why they’re important to both humans and animals. Native trees such as Black Walnut and Hickory have long been valued for their strong wood and tasty nuts.

In this article, we’ll look at how to tell the difference between native nut trees in Ohio that have been growing here for a long time and non-native nut trees that have recently been introduced.

So, let’s get started.

1. Ohio Buckeye

• Common Name: Ohio Buckeye
• Scientific Name: Aesculus glabra
• Mature Height: 20-40′ (6-12 m)
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: green flowers
• Uses: planted in parks, yards, and along streets for its attractive autumn foliage

The Ohio Buckeye, also known as Fetid Buckeye or Stinking Buckeye, is a Native American tree that features a broad spherical crown with a flat top and can reach a height of 20-40 feet.

The Ohio Buckeye’s palmate leaves are composed of 5 leaflets, each 3-5 inches long and radiating from a central point with fine uneven teeth. The leaves are yellowish green on top and pale and hairy on the bottom, and they are linked to the tree in different directions.

Because of the unpleasant odor of the blossoms and most other portions of the tree when crushed, the Ohio Buckeye is also known as Fetid Buckeye or Stinking Buckeye. It thrives in damp locations naturally, such as river bottoms, and is planted as a landscaping tree in drier highland areas for its gorgeous autumn foliage.

The tree produces spherical, light brown spiny capsules that are 1-2 inches wide. These capsules carry 1-2 glossy brown toxic seeds that fauna avoids. The bark of the Ohio Buckeye was originally employed as a cerebrospinal system stimulant.

The Ohio Buckeye leaves turn yellow to orange in the fall, creating a stunning picture. It can be distinguished from Yellow Buckeye by the warty spines on its fruit capsules. Despite its unpleasant odor, they are one of the most commonly found nut trees in Ohio.

2. Black Walnut

• Common Name: Black Walnut
• Scientific Name: Juglans nigra
• Mature Height: 50-75 feet (15-23 meters)
• Native to North America
• Flowers in catkins and fruits are green with an edible nut inside

The black walnut tree can be found throughout North America. It can reach a height of 75 feet!

The Black Walnut tree’s leaves are compound, which means that many little leaves grow together on one stalk. Each leaflet is approximately 3-4 inches long and has a pointed tip. The leaves become yellowish green in the fall and fall off the tree.

The Black Walnut tree’s fruit is green with a firm dark nut inside. The nutmeat is delicious and safe to consume. The husk that covers the nut, on the other hand, contains a chemical that can color your skin. Pioneers dyed their garments light brown using these husks!

The wood of black walnut is also quite valued. It does not shrink or distort, making it ideal for making furniture and cabinets. Animals such as squirrels and birds rely on the Black Walnut tree for food.

One important feature of Black Walnut is its ability to create juglone, a natural herbicide. This compound can be damaging to surrounding plants and is present in the tree’s fallen leaves and roots.

3. American Bladdernut

• Common Name: American Bladdernut
• Scientific Name: Staphylea trifolia
• Mature Height: 20-25 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Green capsule fruit
• Uses: Provides shade and beauty in gardens and forests

The American Bladdernut tree has several slender stems and an open crown. It can reach a height of 20-25 feet and has compound leaves that are 6-9 inches long.

The leaves are oppositely connected and consist of 3-5 oval leaflets ranging in length from 1-3 inches. The fine-toothed margins of the dark green leaves are placed above while the paler green margins are located below.

The bark of the American Bladdernut is originally gray and smooth, but it can turn scaly and fractured as the tree becomes older. The tree’s fruit is a 3-lobed green capsule that turns brown when mature and can grow to be 1-2 inches long. The capsule dangles and opens at the pointed end, releasing lustrous brown spherical seeds.

The American Bladdernut is native to Ohio and grows in moist soils and shade in the understory of deciduous woodlands.

It gets its name from its distinctive inflated green-to-brown bladders, which are most visible in the summer and autumn. These bladders help distinguish this tree from others. Because of its location in the understory of deciduous forests, this tree is sometimes ignored.

4. Butternut

• Common Name: Butternut
• Scientific Name: Juglans cinerea
• Mature Height: 40-60 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces small greenish-yellow flowers in the spring; develops oblong nuts enclosed in sticky husks.
• Uses: Valued for its timber, which is used in woodworking and furniture making; nuts are edible and enjoyed by both wildlife and humans for their rich flavor.

Butternut, commonly known as White Walnut, is a medium-sized tree with a divided trunk and an open crown that can grow to a height of 40-60 feet. It is scientifically known as Juglans cinerea and is a member of the Walnut family (Juglandaceae).

If you are looking for the best variety among the nut trees in Ohio, then Butternut must be the ideal choice. It is a native tree with a wide range that can live for 80-100 years.

The tree’s compound leaves are 15-25 inches long and have 11-17 leaflets. These leaflets have a toothed border and are typically 2-4 inches long. The last leaflet of each leaf is normally present and the same size as the lateral leaflets, gradually shrinking toward the leaf base.

The bark of the tree is light gray with broad flat ridges. Butternut flowers are catkins that are 1-2 inches long and made up of many tiny green flowers. The fruit is an oval, edible nut with a sticky green husk that becomes brown.

Butternut trees grow in a wide range of soil types, often on slopes with well-draining rich soils.

Butternut wood is highly hard, robust, and in high demand among woodworkers. This tree’s sap can be boiled to make syrup, and yellow dye derived from the husks can be used to color clothes. The common name comes from the butter-like oil that American Indians extracted from the nuts.

Unfortunately, Butternut is plagued by a devastating illness known as Butternut canker, which is caused by a fungus and has killed many of these trees.

5. Horse chestnut

• Common Name: Horse Chestnut
• Scientific Name: Aesculus hippocastanum
• Mature Height: 50-75 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces white or pink flowers with a yellow or red spot in the spring; develops spiky capsules containing shiny brown nuts.
• Uses: Ornamental tree in parks and gardens, nuts for wildlife.

Aesculus hippocastanum, or horse chestnut, is a medium-sized tree that can grow to be 40-60 feet tall. It is a member of the Soapberry family and is recognized for its lovely white blooms with yellow or orange centers that grow in spike clusters 8-12 inches long.

The Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves are palmately compound, with 5-9 leaflets radiating from a central point on each leaf.

The bark of Horse-Chestnut trees is dark brown with numerous furrows and scales, and the fruit has numerous spines.

The fruit is a spherical, thick-walled leathery green capsule with 1-3 smooth, non-edible, lustrous chestnut-brown seeds. The tree is not native to the United States and was brought over from Europe perhaps 75-100 years ago.

Horse-Chestnut trees thrive in a wide range of soil conditions and can be found in parks and yards across the United States. They are linked to Ohio Buckeye trees and were sometimes used to treat horse coughs, which is how they received their name. Esculin, a substance found in the Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves and bark, has been extracted for use in skin protectants.

The Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves become yellow in the autumn season. This plant is a lovely addition to any outdoor setting, and many people enjoy its distinctive flowers and foliage. However, keep in mind that the tree’s seeds are not edible and should not be consumed.

6. Yellow Buckeye

• Common Name: Yellow Buckeye
• Scientific Name: Aesculus flava
• Mature Height: 50-70 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces showy yellow flowers in the spring; develops spiny capsules containing shiny brown nuts.
• Uses: Planted for decorative purposes in gardens and parks, providing shade and visual appeal; nuts serve as a food source for wildlife.

Aesculus flava, or Yellow Buckeye, is a big tree that can grow to be 50 to 70 feet tall. It has a circular crown with spreading branches and single or several trunks.

Yellow Buckeye leaves are a palmate compound and range in length from 5 to 14 inches. They are composed of 5 to 7 leaflets radiating from a central point. The leaflets are finely serrated and uniformly yellowish-green on top, paler below, and frequently hairy.

Yellow Buckeye produces green-to-tan tubular flowers in triangular clusters 4 to 6 inches tall in the spring. The Yellow Buckeye produces a smooth, leathery, 3-parted light brown capsule that is spherical and 2 to 3 inches wide. There are 1 to 2 deadly seeds inside the capsule.

Yellow Buckeyes are endemic to Ohio and feature a yellow-to-orange fall color. They can grow up to 6,000 feet in a range of settings and are often found in deep moist soils, rivers, and mountain valleys.

Although the Yellow Buckeye is ubiquitous in the Great Smoky Mountains, it is rare in pure stands in Ohio and is restricted to rich bottomlands.

The Yellow Buckeye’s soft wood is listed at the bottom of the 35 major timbers in the United States and is frequently used for pulpwood, artificial limbs, and interior finishes for dwellings.

Yellow Buckeye seeds and young shoots are poisonous and can make cattle sick. However, the Yellow Buckeye is often marketed as a shade tree and is also known as Sweet Buckeye, Big Buckeye, or Large Buckeye.

7. Shellbark Hickory

• Common Name: Shellbark Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya laciniosa
• Mature Height: 70-90 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Thick-shelled green fruit turning dark brown at maturity, round 2-3″ in diameter, husk splits open into 4 sections, releasing a nearly round nut.
• Uses: Fruit is edible and eaten by wildlife.

One of the tallest nut trees in Ohio, the Shellbark Hickory, also known as the Big Shagbark Hickory or Kingnut, is a huge, natural tree that may be found throughout most of the United States save the far eastern limit of Ohio.

It can reach a height of 90 feet and has a straight trunk and a narrow spherical crown.

It has complex leaves that are glossy green on top and lighter on the bottom, with 7 (occasionally 9) lance-shaped leaflets. The tree’s bark is gray and rough, growing shaggy with age and flaking into long, thin, loosely linked pieces.

The Shellbark is one of the easiest hickories to identify due to its enormous leaves, incredibly large fruit, and orange twigs. Its fruit, which is edible and consumed by wildlife, is thick-shelled, green, and matures to a dark brown color.

The husk separates into four parts, revealing an almost spherical nut. The central stalk (rachis) of the tree persists after the leaflets fall off each autumn.

Shellbark Hickory grows well in moist to wet soils, floodplains, and sun to partial shade. The tree has been present for 150-200 years, and the Latin species name, laciniosa, means “with folds,” referring to the shaggy bark. It’s a lovely tree that feeds wildlife and lends a unique touch to any area.

8. Mockernut Hickory

• Common Name: Mockernut Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya tomentosa
• Mature Height: 40-80 feet
• Native/Non-native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Produces thick-shelled green nuts
• Uses: Valued for its strength for furniture; also used for smoking meat, such as ham.

The Mockernut Hickory is a medium to big tree with a straight trunk. It can reach heights of 40-80 feet and has a narrow circular crown. It has complex leaves that are 8-20 inches long and have 7-9 leaflets. Each leaflet is elliptical, with a pointy apex and a round base.

The leaves are lustrous dark green on top and lighter and hairy on the bottom. The bark is gray to light brown and has short forked ridges.

The Mockernut Hickory produces thick-shelled green nuts that develop to brown. These nuts contain a small edible kernel that ranges in color from tan to light brown.

The tree bears nuts after 20 years, but the optimal nut-bearing age ranges from 50 to 150 years. Its nuts are an essential wildlife food source, as many birds and animals consume them or store them for the winter.

Mockernut Hickory is native to the eastern and southern United States, where it can be found in damp highland areas. It is commonly found growing with oaks and other hickories on ridges and hillsides in the sun.

The species name stems from the Latin term tomentum, which means “covered with dense short hairs,” and refers to the underside of leaves, which aids in species identification.

Mockernut Hickory wood has long been prized for its strength and durability, particularly in furniture. It is also used to smoke meat, like ham. Its hairy, sturdy twigs are frequently reddish brown.

The Mockernut Hickory tree represents a strong and enduring species that has survived for 300-500 years.

9. Bitternut Hickory

• Common Name: Bitternut Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya cordiformis
• Mature Height: 50-100 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Produces nuts
• Uses: Wood is used for smoking meat, and nuts were once used for lamp fuel

Bitternut Hickory is a huge, strong tree that can reach heights of 100 feet. The trunk is straight, with slender erect branches and an open spherical crown.

The leaves are compound, which means they are made up of several smaller leaflets. Each leaflet is 3-6 inches long and has a pointed tip and a finely serrated border. The leaves are glossy green above and lighter below.

Bitternut Hickory bark is gray in hue with uneven vertical fractures.

Bitternut Hickory fruit is a circular nut, 34 to 12 inches in diameter, with a pointed end and four ridges extending to the point. This nut is too bitter for humans and most creatures to consume. Previously, the oil derived from the nuts was utilized as lamp fuel.

Bitternut Hickory is a North American native that thrives in damp soils and lowlands. It is a full-sun tree that does not tolerate shade. It has a bright yellow bud that makes it simple to distinguish before the leaves appear. Bitternut Hickory wood is used for smoking meat and has a particular flavor.

This tree has been existing for 100-150 years and is an important part of North America’s natural landscape.

10. American Chestnut

• Common Name: American Chestnut
• Scientific Name: Castanea dentata
• Mature Height: 60-90 feet (18-27.5 meters)
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Catkin with male and female flowers on the same tree (monoecious)
• Uses: Hard oak-like wood with a straight grain, relatively decay-resistant.

The American Chestnut is a magnificent tree that previously stood more than 100 feet tall.

The leaves of the American Chestnut are distinctive, having large teeth that extend beyond the leaf margin and curve forward like saw teeth. The bark of the American Chestnut is smooth and dark brown to red, splitting into large flat-topped ridges.

The American Chestnut is well-known for its delectable chestnuts, which are frequently roasted over an open fire during the holiday season. However, the tree has numerous more purposes besides producing tasty nuts. The wood of the American Chestnut is firm and straight like oak, making it a great choice for furniture and building materials.

A fungus known as chestnut blight has made mature trees extremely scarce today. Chestnut blight is a fungus that destroys trees by damaging the bark and interfering with nutrition delivery.

The American Chestnut tree is endemic to the eastern United States and is frequently observed in parks or near historic structures.

Although mature trees are difficult to obtain owing to chestnut disease, the American Chestnut will sprout from the stumps of dead or cut trees and can continue to thrive.

Similar Articles

• White Flowering Trees In Ohio
• Yellow Flowering Trees In Ohio
• Common Oak Trees In Ohio
• Common Willow Trees In Ohio
• Common Purple Trees In Ohio
• Common Pine Trees In Ohio
• Common Birch Trees In Ohio
• Common Ash Trees In Ohio
• Native Cherry Trees In Ohio
• Native Hickory Trees In Ohio
• Common Elm Trees In Ohio
• Common Spruce Trees In Ohio
• Common Poplar Trees In Ohio
• Common Maple Trees In Ohio
• Common Cedar Trees In Ohio
• Native Aspen Trees In Ohio
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Common Nut Trees In Ohio – Sources

The Regional Gardening team makes sure that the information in our articles is accurate by only using sources that are known to be trustworthy. Some of these sources are peer-reviewed journals from government agencies, well-known universities, and scientific research organizations.

1. Trees Of Ohio, Division Of Wildlife
2. Trees Of Ohio Field Guide, ​​Book by Stan Tekiela
3. Ohio Trees, OSU Extension Publications
4. Native Plant Lists, Ohio Department Of Natural Resources
5. Ohio Department Of Agriculture
6. Gardening, The Ohio State University

Rifle barrel life – How fast will your barrel reach retirement age?

In this age of increasing retirement age, it seems we’re expecting our rifle barrels to follow suit! In the world of high-performance rifle cartridges, barrel life maybe a short season. This month we look into rifle barrel life with 3 top gunsmiths on both sides of the Atlantic to get a shot at this highly energized topic amongst competitors, hunters and ELR shooters alike.

We spoke to three top gunsmiths in the game to find out how it effects competition shooters, ELR shooters and hunters, all after the ultimate performance for their intended game.

Left to right: Mik Maksimovic presenting a new rifle to a customer, Ryan Pierce out hunting and Harry Drescher from Solid Solution Designs

Rigby: Barrel life with traditional rifles like this Rigby in 375H&H is almost infinite. You will probably never wear out this traditional hunting rifle’s barrel.

Rifle barrel life is a topic I come across often when discussing some of the long-range cartridges both online and in gun shops. A few have also asked me about the barrel wear on the 300 Norma Mag cartridge so I thought I will put out a few thoughts about it as well as reeling in the thoughts of some top gun smiths in the process. What do they have to say?

For this we have reached out to Mik Maksimovic at Dolphin Gun company in the UK that has built more F-Class rifles than he cares to forget about.

We also spoke to Harry Drescher in the Netherlands from Solid Solution Designs that builds many large bore rifles for long range and ELR (exlrs.com) as well US based gunsmith Ryan Pierce, who has probably built more 300 Norma hunting rifles than anyone else and is a well-respected knowledge source on the respective 300Norma Facebook group. Among other things, Ryan builds 300 Normas that are meant to hunt with. This means that weight is usually on a premium and the overall balance of the gun important.

In this way we shall get 3 expert views on the important topic.

Why do barrels burn out?

Barrel wear or rather barrel burning comes from the immense heat that is generated whenever a cartridge is fired and you’re effectively channeling all that energy through a small hole hence coining the term for some cartridges as ‘over-bore’ cartridges. This creates immense heat and friction inside a small bore, pushing a bullet along the lands of the rifle barrel. The more powder you burn through a small hole, the more your barrels burns out. Shoot a few rounds fast, any you will feel that barrel steaming! All this in the name of Long Range Performance. Check out the video below of the high performance 338LM at 1 mile that we shot in Sicily.

Rifle barrel life in perspective

A 308win cartridge will burn circa 42grains of powder for a 30 caliber bullet. A 300 Norma is burning 90 grains of powder for the same 30 cal. bullet.

A 338 Lapua burns circa 90grains of powder under a larger .338 bullet. David Tubb’s 33XC is burning close to 125grain of powder, that’s 38% more than the 338Lapua for the same bullet diameter. Those big numbers you see on your chrono have an effect on your shoulder as well as your barrel life :_)

Does short barrel life hold you back from that shiny new cartridge you’ve been craving for?

Voere X3 rifle topped with leading Steiner tactical optics on offer

If you’re reading this, it probably concerns you. Rifle barrel life puts many prospective shooters off a high-performance cartridge. But should you really be concerned with barrel life? Here’s one way of seeing it. If burning barrels concerns you more than the performance you can achieve, than that level of performance is probably not for you or you don’t need it. High performance cartridges are created for specific tasks. If I’m using a 37XC cartridge to take out a high value target, the cost of my round is virtually negligible. If I take a 300Norma on my next Ibex hunt, the cost of the barrel wear and the lifetime of that barrel is virtually negligible too compared to the cost of my hunt. In the same way, if I’m a prospective F-class competitor and absolutely want the top cartridge I can manage to shoot that could help me achieve a marginal advantage to WIN, then 500 rounds of barrel life maybe just the ticket to achieve that. Are you still with me? If yes, keep reading.

300 Norma cartridge

Let’s take a hunting rifle chambered in 300Norma such as those built by Ryan Pierce. Let’s say we get 1000 rounds of tip top accuracy, 1/3 MOA accuracy shooting a 215gr at 3100ft/s without pushing it. We’re going to get impressive performance that will put meat in the freezer for years to come. It requires less than half the windage of my 308win seen below making my shots more forgiving in the same wind condition. If you take it out for practice once a month and fire 30 controlled rounds each time, that’s 360 rounds of practice in a year. That’s 3 years of practice with enough life in the barrel to bag tons of meat. Being a more wind forgiving round, it allows you make the same shot with half with difficulty. If you’re doing an Ibex hunt and absolutely must connect at any feasible distance you may be shooting, you can’t go wrong with a 300 Norma. You’re spending a few thousands on that trophy Ibex, barrel life in comparison is nothing, you guessed it! If you want to read more about the 300Norma, we prepared this in detail write up.

I’ve also noticed that the users after specific cartridges often are trying to achieve very specific goals and understand this principle better than others who just go to the range to plink and have fun burning a few rounds of ammo. Typically these rifle cartridge users build rifles around the bullet and cartridge they want to use or otherwise rechamber an existing rifle for a specific rifle which entails a new barrel and set of dies in most scenarios (as is the case with 338LM users shooting a 33XC) Typically these shooters are more involved with their goals and objectives and want to achieve specific goals.

How much barrel life are you happy with?

Above: A 308Win round is often thought of having some of the best barrel life available. 10k rounds is not unheard of in service rifles. Burning barrels is not an issue with such volume to bore ratio as found in the 308win. Get the March Scope 2.5-25×56 with upto 100MOA of elevation

View your barrel with a borescope as we did here https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGVveyJi9U/

If like us you enjoy Ultra long range, the 300 Norma Mag is a fantastic contender for 1-mile shooting as you can see here and even a few hundred yards further in the right conditions. Mine is doing 3250ft/s with a 215berger, it’s no slouch. My shooting buddy Robert is running 230s at 3050ft/s from a 29inch barrel.

Above: Pushing the limits during ladder testing of the 300Norma Mag before taking it for the King of 1 mile competition in France.

If you shoot 3 rounds and let it cool, you’re looking at 900-1200 rounds of barrel life maybe more.

“The other question I ask shooters that write to us at rifletalks.com is, do you want a 1-mile rifle or a rifle that can potentially shoot 1 mile?”

What’s the difference some ask me?

A 300win mag can shoot 1 mile as will your 30-06 and your 284Win as I saw at the king of 1 mile with the excellent shooting of Cap Beng from France. The guy is a phenomenal army shot but under gunned with a 284win at 1 mile. Had he been running a 300Norma, the outcome could have been very different.

A one mile rifle cartridge like the 300 Norma and similar cartridges have what it takes to connect at 1 mile. They are still supersonic at the distance, their windage correction will be relatively low say 6-8MOA of wind in 10mph full value which makes it easier to connect in changing winds.

If you want to shoot 1 mile in Europe, join this facebook group, Trapani one mile shoot with more info about the next one mile shooting weekend in Sicily, Italy coming March 2021.

Considerations around rifle barrel life

Below are some questions you may want to ask yourself when deciding about a new high performance cartridge.

1. String of shots – how many rounds are you expecting to shoot in a string?
2. What are your objectives with this cartridge?
3. Are you in for competition or a high-performance hunting cartridge?
4. What is the cost of your barrel wear?
5. What is the cost of ammo before you wear out the barrel?
6. How can you extend the lifetime of your barrel?
7. Are the achievements worthwhile for you?

How can I see what’s going on in the barrel?

I suggest you get yourself this borescope, for $129 it will give you a good idea what’s happening inside your barrel as you shoot your way through its lifetime as well as seeing what’s going on after you actually clean your barrel. Take the guess work out of the equation.

Above: a bartlein 308 barrel just before engaging the rifling forward of the lead, it’s brand new, only fired a proofing round through it.

Above, a 308barrel with about 200 rounds of 300 Norma Mag through it at 3250ft/s. Surprised?

How much does your rifle barrel wear cost?

Often, shooters take this to be the rifle barrel cost. If you’re in Europe you’re looking at £900-£1300 per barrel depending on configuration, length, fluting, finish, muzzle break etc.

When you consider a high-performance cartridge doing 1000 rounds of peak performance before it drops off, you’re looking at about £1 per shot in barrel wear plus whatever it costs you to assemble your ammo. I can see some of you raising their eyebrows. If you consider the cost of 1000 high performance rounds, you’re looking somewhere at £2-3 a pop if you handload and £6-8 if you shoot factory for the big magnums and ELR rounds. That’s £2-3000 in ammo consumed before replacing the barrel…. Still interested? Ok once we’re over the financials, let’s speak to the experts.

Chat with Mik Maksimovic

What does Mik Maksimovic have to say about rifle barrel life and burning barrels? (Dolphin Gun Company UK)

Producing some of the largest volume of F-Class rifles in Europe, Mik knows barrel life as the palm of his rifled hands 🙂

Rod: What kills rifle barrels fast when shooting strings?

Mik: Hey Rod, firstly, rifle barrels don’t wear out they BURN out. Heat from repeated firing burns barrels out slightly quicker

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your F-open gun to go?

Mik: I expect 2000 rounds from my 300 WSM and 1200 to 1500 from my 7-270 WSM

Rod: Do you see any big changes in F–open calibers?

Mik: F-Open is always evolving calibre wise, we have gone from 6.5-284 to 7mm to 30 Cal, but it’s restricted to 8mm and no one has gone down that route yet, no really good bullets in 8mm avail yet. (editor: similar challenges lie with the .408 round, not enough high performance bullets to choose from restricting the popularity of the cartridges)

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Mik: Using single based powders and cleaning correctly and regularly will give you the best barrel life, double based or high energy powders will burn a barrel out quicker

Rod: How far off is an FTR 308win barrel in terms of barrel wear from an open gun by today’s performance standards?

Mik: FTR 308Win barrel burns out the same as an F-open barrel, they use 20% or so less powder so they get longer barrel life, the barrel life is dependent on the calibre, and amount/type of powder burnt down the barrel.

You can email Mik mik@dolphinguncompany.co.uk if you need more info referring to this article

Ryan Pierce on High Performance hunting rifles

Next: Ryan Pierce from Piercision rifles, USA

Above: Ryan doing what he enjoys best with his own high performance hunting rifles

Rod: What kills a barrel fast when shooting strings?

Ryan: There’s quite a few variables that come into play for killing a barrel. How hot you get the barrel. Are you shooting at a pace similar to F-class? (editor: 1 round every 80 seconds or so) That will cut barrel life in half easily if you get the barrel really hot all the time. I keep my barrels cool whenever possible. During load development I’ll wait a couple minutes between shots and use a chamber cooler during that time. The type of powder used will have an effect on barrel life also. I generally don’t let the barrels on my big magnums get really dirty. Extreme spread and accuracy opens up when that happens, due to carbon build up etc.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing 300Norma/ 28Nosler hunting rifles to go?

Above: High performance rounds can help you half your windage hold offs.

Ryan: Round count is pretty subjective. Accuracy requirements play a big role in that as well, along with the above-mentioned variables.

For instance, if a guy shoots a bunch of rounds through his 28 Nosler all the time and gets the barrel smoking hot while doing so he could shoot a barrel out in 3-400 rounds pretty easily. However, if you keep it cool and clean you can get 600 or more rounds down it. That’s pushing a 195gr at 3100+ fps. The Norma and Norma improved I am telling guys to expect 1000 rounds or more of good accuracy if the barrel is taken care of. I have a barrel with 800 rounds through it that still hammers. A customer sent me some groups from his awhile back that were still 1/8 moa at that round count. It all comes down to how the barrel is treated.

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing hunting calibers or barrels used for them?

Ryan: I did hear about Bartlein’s new steel they’re offering. Sounds like a good deal. Time will tell on the new steel.

As far as new cartridges go there’s always going to be the “latest and greatest”. “I’ve obviously built quite a few 300 Norma and Norma improved. The fact that Lapua makes the brass is a huge bonus for it. I have 28 WARM firings on a single piece of brass and the primer pocket is still tight. Feels almost brand new. Its a great round. Extremely accurate and wide nodes. Capable of sending a 230 berger over 3000 fps in a 26″ barrel and still fit in magazines while throated for heavy bullets.”

I’m currently messing with reloader 50 in my heavy 30″ barrel setup and have a node at 3150 fps with a 230 berger and no pressure signs. Its offering much better case fill than N570 also. Another one of the popular cartridges I’ve chambering for guys is the 30-28 Nosler which is simply a 28 Nosler necked up to 30 cal. It has more case capacity than the 30 Nosler. My personal rifle in it has a 26″ proof carbon and is pushing a 230 Berger at a little over 2950 fps with h1000. It’s mind blowing accurate as well. The last two groups I shot at 580 yds had .6″ vertical. I also shot a cold bore 3 shot group over 3 days at 580 yds. One shot per day. Each day had 10 mph winds from different directions. The 3 shot group was 1.7″ tall x 6″ wide. I misjudged a fishtail wind and opened the group up to 6″. The first two days the group was under 2″ and perfectly centered. It also shoots the 215 Bergers lights out at a little under 3100 fps with h1000. I’m guessing optimal barrel life for it will be 1200-1500 rounds.

Above: Nowhere is the game more life and death than when hunting in the mountains. High performance cartridges may just be your ticket to success!

Rod: How far off are these cartridges in terms of barrel wear from traditional cartridges like 300win mag by today’s performance standards and materials?

Ryan: Both those 30 cal magnums mentioned are quite a bit faster than the 300 win mag. 300 win mag is gonna get 1500+ rounds of good barrel life if its taken care of.

Another somewhat new and great option is the 131 gr Blackjack bullet with its sky-high BC. Its been out over a year now. I’ve done a few for guys and they’ve hammered. I’m finishing up a 25 SST for myself in the next week or two and will be using that bullet with it on deer/antelope size game. Not sure how long the barrel will last but seeing as its predominantly a hunting rifle it will last a long time.

That’s the same with my bigger magnums. Remember 600-1000 rounds of barrel life in a hunting rifle is a really long time. That’s a lot of meat in the freezer, haha. If the new steel ends up offering 50% or more-barrel life in big magnums, then the 33XC might start picking up popularity in hunting rifles. My current setup has quite a bit of throat erosion at 190 rounds. My buddy said it looked like his 6XC at 2000 rounds LOL.

The funny thing is the 33XC barrel is consistently holding 2-3″ vertical at 1000 right now. How much longer it will do that I have no idea but I’m guessing the barrel will give up peak accuracy around 400 rounds or maybe a hair less. I’m going to try a different powder in my next barrel and see if that helps with throat erosion etc. Currently using N570 and pushing a 300 gr berger at 3225 fps in a 30″ proof carbon barrel. That combo definitely isn’t going to be easy on barrels!

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Ryan: My advice to new shooters on allowing the barrels to last as long as possible is to keep them cool. Don’t shoot 5-10 round strings. Let it cool between each shot to maximize barrel life.

Ryan is extremely knowledgeable and helpful, you may contact him here piercisionrifles@yahoo.com

Remember, keep load development short when testing hi performance rifle cartridges. Learn how to load develop in < 50 rounds here.

Dutch Rifle smith on ELR rounds

FOR SALE MARCH GENESIS 6-60×56

Read about the March Genesis ELR scope.

Next from the Netherlands, is Harry Drescher (Solid Solution Designs)

Rod: What kills a barrel fast during shooting strings?

Harry: In order to answer this question, we should think about how the barrel is built and how it is constructed, that is a free-floating match barrel in a MTU style profile. Let’s take stainless steel barrels, Single point cut rifling. The critical part of the barrel is the first 10 inches from the chamber into the barrel. This is exposed to a lot of pressure, heat, carbon and coppering. It is the area where the bullet spins for the first time in the lands and grooves of the barrel. If you shoot a fast string,and repeat this, the internal surface wears fast and the heat stress will cause deformities also known as heat cracks or snake skin. In time when these deformities grow, the accuracy can drop off.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing ELR rifles like 33XC and 375chey to go?

Harry: If the customer chooses the type of barrel and the type of rifling as mentioned in option 1 we can expect loss off accuracy after as much as 1200 rounds in high performance mode. This means monolthic bullets, with speeds over 960m/s

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing calibers or barrels used for them?

Harry: Recently we have seen a massive increase of sales of replacement barrels in 33xc, and 37xc as well as 416 Barret. The main brand chosen is in our view Bartlein, Krieger, and Proof research. Runner up is Benchmark and Rangemaster Precision Arms barrels being both top notch supplier of button rifled barrels.

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Harry: Choose a matching finished length and twist rate that really helps you achieve your ULR goals. Lower twist rates can really make the difference in the subsonic phase.

First accuracy, then speed we always say. Off course it’s a relative thing.

When your barrel is freshly cut, and you start using it, it will wear out. The first few hundred rounds will be the best that you get. A good tip might be to focus your cleaning more on carbon removal and less on copper removal. In this way you maintain the performance level even better.

And for projectiles, please choose a good High BC bullet like WTC, Berger solid, Cutting Edge, SSD Holland.

Rod: How far off are these ELR cartridges from introductory cartridges like 338Lapua when it comes to burning barrels?

Harry: The true ELR cartridges are reducing rifle barrel life fast. That is absolutely true. We have seen that already with the good old 300rum back in the days.

Where a 338lapua magnum can do easily 3000 rounds without loss off accuracy, Formula 1 cartridges like 375CT, 33xc, and the others mentioned will engage your barrel rapidly. I have even had a customer who did 600 rounds laser-style in his 416Barret, ending the rifling for a good 45 percent…….. I must admit that he used a brass solid over a copper solid, but still. Yeah!

You may reach Harry Drescher here: Info@solidsolutiondesigns.com

Over and Out,

Rod

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I’ve been bowhunting for 30 years and in the 2016 season, I took my biggest mule deer ever with a bow. I shoot a PSE Omen bow and on this hunt, I was using a Rage Hypodermic broadhead.

I go to Wyoming fishing. I wanted to hunt mule deer in Wyoming, but I had been guiding so much that I hadn’t had a chance to go to Wyoming and hunt for myself. 2016 was the only time in 10 years that I was able to make a mule deer hunt in Wyoming. When I drew my tag, I knew I’d be hunting in a really good unit.

I made six scouting trips before the season. I found a buck in the middle of July, then I didn’t see him again for 1-1/2 months. I found him again five or six days before my hunt started. I had pulled my trailer up to the area that I wanted to hunt five days before the season. When I saw this buck, his antlers had grown from about a 210-inch buck to a 252-inch buck in a little bit more than 1-1/2 months.

I came back home to Utah for a couple of days, and all I could think about was that mule deer buck. I went back to Wyoming two days before bow season started on Thursday. I arrived on Tuesday, and I found that buck again on Wednesday. The buck was holding on a peak at about 10,000 feet – almost above the tree line. I saw a grizzly bear, two wolves and about five or six black bears. I could see the Grand Teton Mountains off to my west.

I was hunting along the Wind River where one of the tallest peaks in Wyoming is and it’s called Gannet Peak. This is a really remote area of Wyoming, and I rarely see any other hunters when I’m up there. The first time I found this buck and every time I found him until I took him, he was on the same peak. I had put some trail cameras out on this mountain, and I got trail camera pictures from when he scored about 210 inches.

I was hiking in to my stand before daylight on the day I took the buck. My Dad and a friend of mine were hunting on the opposite side of the mountain from me. All the way in to where I was going to setup, I thought about the bears I had seen when I was scouting. I had one hand on my bow and the other hand on my bear spray as I moved silently through the dark woods. I hoped that the buck would be feeding at daylight on a south-facing slope where I had seen him before. One of the advantages of bowhunting mule deer in the early season is, because their antlers are still in the velvet, they tend to stay in open places more often than when they’re in hard horn.

The buck I was hunting was with another buck that would score about 180 on the P&Y scale. About 8 a.m., when the sun started warming up, the bucks would usually leave the open areas and move to the north side of the slope. I decided to try and intercept the buck as he went from his feeding area in the early morning to his bedding area. When I spotted the buck, I knew I had to climb the mountain to get above him. I climbed between 1,000 and 2,000 feet up above the buck. I was only about 100 yards from the top of the mountain when I set up. As the two deer moved toward me, the smaller buck was leading my buck up a trail about 50 yards from me.

Once I finally took the shot, the arrow hit the buck hard enough to turn the buck around and cause him to start going back down the trail he had just come up. Then the buck bedded down about 80 yards from me. After about 30 minutes, I saw the buck come rolling out of this patch of trees where he had bedded down. If he hadn’t hit this one tree while he was rolling, he would have fallen off a ledge, landed about 500 feet down the mountain and probably would have broken his rack.

He was a 252-inch buck, and he had a total of 25 points. The buck was also the state record for mule deer taken in the velvet in the state of Wyoming.

Day 1: Mossy Oak Pro Brandon Wicks’s Biggest Bull Elk

Tomorrow: One of Brandon Wicks’s Most Memorable Elk Hunts

Have you ever gone to pick up your air gun, only to find that it no longer functions after a few hundred shots? Air guns are delicate machines, and even with the best care, they will eventually break down. But how long do air guns last on average? Keep reading to find out!

When an airgun’s life is over, it means that there are no longer any spare parts available to repair the gun. This could be because they have run out or been destroyed entirely so you will need a new one for your collection. Here is a breakdown of the common types:

BB guns

The durability of a BB gun is unparalleled. The U.S Army has documented that these guns shoot over 20 million shots before needing parts replacement. The barrel of a centerfire firearm wears rapidly and may get 1,000 to 5,000 proper shots in its lifetime. It is difficult to replace when needed. A BB gun shot tube, by contrast, is an inexpensive part that any owner can replace.

CO2 guns

This class of air guns contains all the single shots like the Crosman 180s and Sheridan 2260. These longer-lasting action-type CO2-powered guns can be entirely built from parts if needed with no effect on their life span! As long as those proprietary pieces exist, they’ll continue working indefinitely

Pneumatic airguns

It’s true that pneumatic air rifles (variable pumps and PCPs) have an indefinitely long life, but there are some known issues. For example, the guns with barrels soldered to their pump tubes can separate at this point and no one has yet devised a commercial method for resoldering them either.
The other major failure happens when too much stress builds up on your pivot pins–they break off inside where you cannot reach them without professional help; repairing these failures is a thankless task requiring lots more money than buying a brand new gun.

Spring piston airguns

You can expect your spring piston air gun to last for 10,000 – 75 thousand shots before it needs repairs. This all depends on which model you have and how well they were made!

With proper care and maintenance, a spring piston air gun can last hundreds of thousands of rounds without any signs of failure or wear. An overhaul (new spring, piston seal, and breech seals) can make your springers last for decades.

(For more on the best break barrel air rifle that hits like a champ, see this post)

In our previous post, we talked about the intricacies of deer vision, focusing on their perception of color, sensitivity to light, ability to detect movement, and their response to blue-spectrum and UV light. With that foundation, it’s time to delve into choosing the best camo for deer hunting in different hunting environments and seasons.

In this follow-up post, we’ll discuss what the science says about deer vision and camouflage and how to use them to enhance your concealment and help you choose the right camouflage for hunting deer.

Selecting the Right Camouflage to Beat Deer Vision

Choosing the right camouflage can make all the difference in a successful deer hunt. Deer have exceptional vision, and hunters need to be aware of how they perceive colors and movement to avoid detection. In this section, we’ll look at the science behind deer vision and how it relates to camouflage.

1. Match your environment: Choose a camouflage pattern that blends well with the dominant colors, patterns, and textures of your hunting environment.
2. Adapt to the season: Select camouflage that reflects the changing foliage and vegetation throughout the hunting season. Early-season hunts may require more green elements, while late-season hunts call for patterns with more browns and grays. Snowy environments or winter hunts may necessitate snow camouflage patterns.
3. Consider deer’s unique color perception: Deer perceive reds, oranges, and some tans and grays as shades of green or gray. Be cautious when selecting camouflage patterns, as they may appear effective to human eyes but stand out to deer due to their unique color perception.
4. Minimize blue-spectrum and UV visibility: Since deer are sensitive to blue-spectrum and UV light, avoid clothing and gear treated with brighteners, which can make them more visible to deer. Use UV-free detergents for washing your hunting gear and consider using UV-blocking sprays on your clothing and equipment to minimize the chances of being detected by deer.

READ: Deer Vision 101: How Deer See Color, Light, and Movement

Why Mimicry Camo Might Not Be the Best Camo

Mimicry camo, which uses pictures or photos of sticks, leaves, bark, trees, etc. to mimic the environment, is the most common type of hunting camouflage. These patterns can look incredibly realistic to the human eye and provide a sense of satisfaction to the hunter wearing them.

As research into deer vision and behavior has advanced, it has become clear that mimicry camo may not be the most effective option for hunting. While these patterns may look highly detailed to the human eye, deer perceive them as blurry blobs of color. Instead, patterns that use disruptive shapes and colors to break up the hunter’s outline have been shown to be more effective at fooling the eyes of whitetail deer.

While mimicry camo may look great to human eyes, it may not always be the most effective choice when hunting deer. By understanding the limitations of deer vision and the importance of breaking up your outline, you can make an informed decision when choosing your hunting apparel and give yourself the best possible chance of success.

The Effectiveness of Computer-Generated “Disruption” Camo Patterns

In recent years, computer-generated “disruption-style” camo patterns have become increasingly popular among hunters. With advancements in technology, it’s easier than ever to create intricate designs and patterns that are meant to mimic natural surroundings. But are these patterns actually effective? In this section, we’ll take a closer look at the effectiveness of computer-generated camo patterns and compare them to traditional, nature-based mimicry patterns.

Disruption camo is designed to break up the outline of the hunter and create the illusion of depth using different-sized patterns. This method tricks the animal’s eyes into not recognizing the subject as one single object, which makes it harder for them to identify the threat. In essence, disruption camo is designed to trick the animal’s eyes into not seeing anything at all.

1. Kuiu, Sitka, Huntworth, and Forloh: These companies have developed advanced camouflage patterns using computer algorithms and digital technologies to create intricate designs that blend effectively with different types of terrains and vegetation. Their patterns can be quite effective for bow hunters, as they help to break up the human silhouette and blend seamlessly with the environment.
2. Asio Gear’s owl-inspired camo: Asio Gear has developed a camouflage pattern specifically for bow hunters, inspired by the natural plumage of owls. This unique pattern is designed to mimic the disruptive coloration and patterning found in owl feathers, which help owls remain concealed from their prey. The effectiveness of this pattern for deer hunting will depend on the specific environment in which you are hunting and how well the colors and patterns match the local vegetation and terrain.

Modern hunting gear companies like the ones detailed above have developed innovative, computer-generated camouflage patterns designed to provide better concealment in various hunting environments. These patterns are often based on detailed studies of natural environments and animal vision, with the aim of increasing their effectiveness in fooling the keen eyes of deer and other game animals.

READ: Bow Hunting Clothes: Optimizing Camo, Scent, and Stealth

Mastering the Art of Concealment

Effective camouflage is just one piece of the puzzle when it comes to successful bow hunting. In addition to choosing the right gear, it’s important to master the art of concealment. This means staying motionless, scent-free, and taking advantage of natural cover to blend into the environment. In this section, we’ll explore the key strategies and techniques for concealing yourself effectively while bow hunting.

1. Blend with the environment: Choose a camouflage that closely resembles the natural patterns and contrasts in your hunting area, helping you to blend in seamlessly.
2. Minimize movement: Deer are highly sensitive to movement, so remain as still and quiet as possible when waiting for the perfect shot.
3. Maintain awareness: Stay vigilant and keep an eye on your surroundings. Deer have a wide field of view, and their heightened senses can detect even the slightest disturbances.
4. Camouflage vs. solid colors: While it’s possible to hunt deer without wearing camouflage, using camo can improve your chances of remaining concealed and undetected. For bow hunters, who need to get closer to their quarry, being able to break up your outline and blend into your environment is critical to your success. However, it’s crucial to combine camo with other hunting strategies and choose the appropriate pattern for your hunting environment and season.

It’s also important to consider other gear that can reduce visibility, such as face masks, gloves, and boots. These items should also match the camo pattern of the clothing.

The Best Camo for Deer Hunting

When it comes to deer hunting, camouflage isn’t just a fashion statement – it’s a crucial tool for success. Understanding deer vision and visual processes is key to creating effective camouflage that works in two ways. First, it must break up the hunter’s 3-dimensional shape and avoid stimulating the ambient system. This is achieved through an effective macro pattern.

Second, if the hunter is detected, the camouflage must prevent or delay recognition by making the hunter appear to have a completely different texture, which is where the micro pattern comes into play. Camouflage gives hunters an extra edge in the difficult pursuit of hunting by enhancing their concealment and increasing their chances of a successful hunt.

Many hunting clothing companies offer camouflage patterns that incorporate both macro and micro patterns to effectively break up the hunter’s shape and texture.

Some examples of such camo patterns include:

• Sitka Optifade Subalpine and Elevated II (and all the other variations they have)
• Kuiu Valo, Verde, and Vias
• First Lite Specter
• Huntworth Disruption
• True Timber Strata
• Under Armour Ridge Reaper Barren

These patterns use a combination of larger and smaller shapes, colors, and textures to create a highly effective camouflage that can help hunters remain hidden from deer.

There isn’t a single combination of colors that works optimally to beat deer vision, but generally speaking, camo patterns that incorporate shades of brown, green, and gray are the most effective. These colors match the natural environment, work against what a deer can see best, and reduce the silhouette of the hunter, making them less detectable.

It’s also important to choose a camo pattern that matches the specific environment and season you’ll be hunting in, as this can vary greatly depending on the location and time of year. Ultimately, the best combination of colors will depend on the individual hunting situation and environment you are in.

*Does mimicry camo work for deer hunting? Of course, it does. Deer have limited ability to see fine details, making mimicry camo effective, especially in environments where the camo closely matches the surroundings. However, based on my experience, I choose disruption-style camo 90% of the time. Disruption-style camo is designed to break up the human outline and create visual confusion, providing reliable concealment in various environments. While mimicry camo excels in perfectly matched environments, disruption-style camo offers versatility and effectiveness even when the colors and patterns may not perfectly align. This is why disruption-style camo has become my preferred choice for its all-around performance.

The Best Camo Patterns for Bow Hunters in Treestands

For bow hunters who hunt from treestands or elevated positions, there are disruption-style camo patterns specifically designed to blend into the vertical lines of trees. Sitka’s Elevated II and Kuiu’s Vias Camo are examples of camo patterns that utilize a mix of grays and greens to break up the human silhouette against the vertical lines of trees.

When hunting from a treestand, it’s important to consider the angle at which deer are likely to approach. Camouflage that blends in well with the vertical lines of trees can be particularly effective when deer are approaching from below, as it helps to break up the hunter’s outline and prevent them from being spotted.

Some of the best camos for deer hunting from a tree stand are:

• Sitka’s Elevated II
• Kuiu’s Verde (Early season)
• Kuiu Valo (Mid-season)
• Asio Gear’s Raptor Camo (See my mid-season gear review here)
• True Timber Strata
• Huntworth Disruption (or Tarnen)

What Deer Science Says

Understanding the science behind deer vision and camouflage is crucial for any serious bow hunter. As hunters, we want to reduce our visibility to deer and increase our chances of a successful hunt. Thanks to a number of scientific studies, we now have a better understanding of what camo patterns work best and why.

There are a number of scientific studies that support the effectiveness (or lack of) of camo patterns that mimic the environment. For example, a study conducted by the University of Georgia found that hunters wearing naturalistic camouflage patterns (mimicry) were less visible to deer than those wearing non-naturalistic patterns or solid colors.

Here are some additional resources and studies that can provide more scientific insight into deer vision and how it relates to the camouflage you wear when hunting:

• New York Times
• The Free Library
• The Deer Laboratory
• North Country Whitetails
• The Outdoor Channel
• Desolve Camouflage Camo Science

Conclusion

By applying your understanding of deer vision to your choice of camouflage, you’ll be better prepared to blend into your hunting environment and stay concealed from the keen eyes of whitetail deer. Remember to select a pattern that closely matches the natural colors, patterns, and textures of your hunting area, and adapt your camouflage according to the season.

Additionally, bear in mind that deer rely on other senses, such as hearing and smell. Thus, it’s essential to minimize noise, control your scent, and remain aware of wind direction while hunting. By combining all these elements, you’ll become a more proficient and effective whitetail deer bow hunter.

Understanding how deer see and process information is essential when trying to find the best camo for deer hunting. While many camouflage patterns use mimicry to blend in with natural environments, ungulates (deer) do not perceive fine detail the same way humans do. Instead, breaking up your outline is the key to effective camouflage, using different-sized patterns to create the illusion of depth and disrupt the animal’s ability to recognize one single object. This is where disruptive camouflage patterns can be more effective than mimicry patterns. By focusing on our outline, removing contrast to the environment we are hunting in, and using effective camouflage, we can reduce our visibility and increase our chances of a successful hunt.

While I didn’t list every deer hunting camouflage that meets the criteria in this post, you can now take this information and make an informed decision on what to buy the next time you are shopping for bow hunting clothes.