By Adam Parr

For the past few years, I’ve struggled to find elk antlers in the mountains of Colorado and quickly became frustrated with the lack of my success. One consistency I’ve come to realize over the past two seasons is that elk shed hunting is simply a different ball game. Comparatively to both whitetails and mule deer, elk antlers always seemed to elude me while deer antlers were relatively easy to find.

The entire purpose of my blog is to document my findings as I embrace a new lifestyle in a much more extreme terrain and environment. With that being said, I believe any midwestern whitetail hunter can have success in their first season shed hunting for mule deer because a lot of the same principles apply. Mule deer are found at lower elevations during the winter months, making them easier to pattern and are easily accessible. They seem to hold more of a consistent pattern for longer periods of time, while an elk herd has a much larger range and can be found in a completely different area from one day to the next.

Below are a few tips to help shorten your elk shed hunting learning curve and to get you on the fast track to finding brown gold!

Get Higher

No, I’m not making a 420 reference here; I’m talking elevation. As a general rule of thumb, the majority of mature bulls are going to be found at higher elevations than the smaller bulls and cows. Although mule deer and elk wintering areas will have some cross-over, most of the lower elevation elk sign will be cows and young bulls.

In areas of extreme snowfall and harsh winter conditions, even the herd bulls will get pushed down to lower elevations out of necessity to survive. The key thing to remember is that elk typically shed their antlers much later in the Spring than deer, so it is important to pay attention to snow accumulation. This past Winter, snowfall was heavy in December, January, and February but March and April were mild with very little accumulation. A mild Spring caused the elk to move back up to higher areas of the mountains during the time that the majority of shedding occurs.

Locate Secluded Basins

The key word here is seclusion. Bigger bulls and elk in general, prefer seclusion and will not tolerate human interaction, which is why you also find them at higher elevations. A great way to locate these areas is through the use of Google Earth, which shows the terrain features from a birds-eye view before ever stepping foot on the ground. Looking at maps prior to entering an area lets you visualize the terrain without wasting time and energy scouring areas that are unproductive.

Mule deer and cow elk will be found closer to roads and human traffic, but don’t be fooled by these visuals. Bull elk are seeking solidarity out of eyesight over the next mountain top.

Go Where The Grass Is

Much like livestock and cattle, elk require an average of 20 pounds of grass and browse vegetation to sustain themselves through a harsh Winter so it’s imperative to locate food. These large grassy meadows, which are predominately found on South facing slopes can be easily identified, once again from Google Earth. By keeping this information in mind, it will help you locate potential feeding areas that elk will utilize on a regular basis.

No matter how good a secluded basin looks at a high elevation, if it doesn’t have a plentiful amount of food, the elk will be nowhere in sight. This seems like common sense to many people but this is something I struggled with early on and I wasted a lot of hours searching areas that did not hold bulls or any elk, for that matter.

The Trifecta

If you want to start having serious success with elk sheds, locate the ultimate elk wintering area; A secluded basin, with an abundance of food at high-elevation. Once you find an area like this, the probability of it being a great spot year after year will be high. For some added advice, be sure to check out this quick video from Mark Kayser, Tips For Finding Elk Shed Antlers.

It is also important to be in very good physical shape if you want to attempt getting into secluded areas of elk country. The terrain is tough, the air is thin and the distance is far, but If you are willing to put in the work, shed antler success will follow.

For additional shed hunting tips and helpful information, be sure to check out 4 New School Tips For The Beginner Colorado Shed Hunter. Happy shed hunting!

January 15, 2021

The tune of Mrs. McCottontail was singing out of the X24. My thumb positioned on the volume buttons, ramping the volume of the rabbit cries up and down. My attention was on the grown up fence row that led into a nasty thicket full of briars and treetops. Suddenly a group of birds were frantically communicating with each other straight down the fence row. I thought to myself, “Surely that means a bobcat is on its way.”

All of a sudden a bobcat magically appeared no more that 50 yards in front of me. The bobcat’s eyes were fixated on the call -flipping his tail as he stalked toward the sound. My rifle was already positioned in the direction of the X24. As the cat crossed in front of my gun barrel, I lip squeaked to stop him, settled the crosshairs on his shoulder, and squeezed the trigger. Pew! Thwap!!! There laid a bobcat just feet from the call. I walked up to the cat and was in awe – just like I am of every bobcat that I’ve been blessed to put my hands on.

After several years of calling bobcats in Kentucky, I’ve found that thorough scouting, smart stand selection, and solid calling techniques all work together to increase your odds of tagging bobcats.

SCOUT FOR BOBCATS

Scouting is an important tool to take advantage of for bobcat success. It’s pretty tough to call up a bobcat in a place that doesn’t have them.

First things first, you have to find them. You’ll rarely see a bobcat out in the wide open. Bobcats seem to love the thick stuff. Lots of times the thicker the better. Recently logged areas that have treetops scattered throughout and have grown up in thick briars can be hot spots for cats. Brushy creek bottoms, thick drainages, and even grown up fields can be places that bobcats love to hang out in and hunt.

Get out there and start looking for sign such as tracks & droppings. Probably the easiest way to find tracks is by walking travel corridors after a snow. Looking for tracks in mud and sand along creeks and pond banks can also pay off.

Take advantage of trail cameras. Trail cameras are an excellent scouting method for finding bobcats. Not only will they let you know if you have a cat to hunt, but they can also help you pattern a cat and let you know when you need to be in the area calling.

One thing I’ve learned over the years is if you call a bobcat in an area, there’s a good chance you’ll find success in that area year after year. I have a few stand locations that I can count on to produce a bobcat, year in and year out. There’s actually a couple of locations that I don’t dare call unless bobcat season is in because there’s that good of a chance that a cat will stroll in.

STAND SELECTION

Stand selection is crucial for success. An ideal stand will have you set up tight on thick cover, but be in an area open enough for you to see. Setting up in woods or in thickets can be effective, but you take the chance of a bobcat coming into the call and sneaking back off without you ever seeing it. Plus, there’s a good chance you could spook a bobcat walking in if you push too far into their area.

I personally like to find open areas such as a small field that is adjacent to where I have bobcats scouted. If possible I’ll set up 50-75 yards away from the thick cover and place the FOXPRO out half the distance from me to the edge of cover. A bobcat isn’t likely to cover a tremendous amount of open ground. So you’ll need to set up close enough that a bobcat will feel comfortable to come to your call.

When it comes to wind direction for bobcats, you’ll find that opinions differ. I’ll give you mine – Always Hunt The Wind! I have seen bobcats circle to the downwind side of my FOXPRO on more than one occasion. I have also seen a bobcat enter my scent cone, get nervous, and run off without the opportunity to fire a shot. I have also called numerous coyotes (which never get a pass) while making bobcat stands. It doesn’t matter if I’m calling for bobcats, coyotes, or fox – I’m always hunting the wind.

SOUNDS & SOUND SEQUENCES

I definitely have favorite sounds that I like to use on bobcat stands. In my experiences of calling bobcats, I’ve become a big fan of cottontail distress sounds. That being said, I’ve called cats in on jackrabbit, snowshoe hare, and various bird sounds. I’ve actually had success calling in bobcats on over a dozen different FOXPRO sound files.

A general bobcat sequence that I like to run starts out light and builds in intensity throughout the sequence. I’ll usually run 3-4 different prey distress sound files resulting in a 15-25 minute stand depending on the location (most of the bobcats I call in show up under 8 minutes). For instance, I’ll start out with a sound such as “Bay Bee Cottontail.” I’ll run that sound for 4-6 minutes. If a cat doesn’t show, I’ll pause for 20-40 seconds and then go into an adult cottontail sound such as “Mrs. McCottontail.” Again, I’ll run that sound for 4-6 minutes. If a cat still doesn’t show I’ll pause for 20-40 seconds again and then go into a snowshoe hare sound such as “Snowshoe Hare HP.” If a bobcat still doesn’t show I’ll finish with a few minutes of a jackrabbit sound such as “Lightning Jack.” As you can see, I like to start out light and increase with intensity with each successive sound. I’ve learned over the years that if a bobcat doesn’t show on a sound played, they’ll usually show up rather quickly after the next sound starts up. It’s almost as if they are afraid they lost their chance to claim the rabbit and then charge in when another sound starts back up.

Over the last 2 years I’ve fallen in love with the new FOXPRO sound file “Mrs. McCottontail.” I’m starting to think that it might be the best bobcat calling sound file ever recorded. After watching 8 different bobcats show up while that sound was playing, I’ve henceforth started leading off with “Mrs. McCottontail.” I’ve recently tagged 2 bobcats that each came to the call in under 5 minutes to that sound.

CLOSING

It’s an amazing sight to witness a bobcat come to the call. Sometimes they sneak in, stalking your call. At times they will come running in just like a coyote. Other times one will show up out of nowhere just sitting there scanning the area. No matter how they come to the call you need to be ready to capitalize on the opportunity. I wish you the best of luck on your next bobcat stand.

Shoot straight and shoot often.

Have you ever been knee-deep in flooded timber, crouched alongside a tree as you watch a flock of mallards work your decoys like they read the script perfectly? You give them a few last feed chuckles as they cup their wings, and you make your shot. You swing perfectly with the appropriate lead, only to watch them all turn and fly out of your life forever, leaving you with nothing to show for it aside from possibly a wounded bird. Has this happened to you? If you’re an avid waterfowler, odds are it has.

The situation I described is all too familiar for most waterfowlers, especially since the federal banning of lead shot for waterfowl in the early ’90s. While this ban played an important role in conservation—fewer birds and other animals are now exposed to toxic lead fragments—the fact remains that most modern waterfowl loads can’t quite match the fatality of lead.

However, in recent years, variations of waterfowl loads have hit the market and gained the attention of outdoorsmen. Variations include split loads, where you could see a mix between a smaller and larger shot to give you that extra knockdown power while still providing enough pellets. Bismuth loads provide a greater density, ensuring cleaner kills. And finally, there’s the revolution of tungsten, which is nearly 70% denser than lead, providing a level of kinetic energy the likes of which hunters had never seen.

But with rising ammo prices and a lack of information surrounding the different shot loads, hunters can have a hard time figuring out which product gives them the best value. I’ll break down the pros and cons of each shot and let you make the final decision on what to put in your shotgun this season!

Steel Shot

What started off as a crunch-time decision to create an effective shot load after the federal ban of lead waterfowl loads led into it becoming the most common waterfowl and upland ammunition today. However, the progression into this wasn’t so glamorous. Steel is an extremely hard metal with a very low density (roughly 7.8 grams per cubic centimeter). This means the shot is very rough on chokes. It also has extremely lower energy rates, especially at long distances.

Over the years, the development of steel shot loads has progressed—through methods of wad advancements, powder improvements, and even shot size stacking. Many hunters have grown to appreciate steel for its low cost as well as its effectiveness in close quarters. Though the complaints regarding wounded birds have decreased with these developments, waterfowlers still feel there is too much risk associated with steel, and they often go with something a little denser and more powerful.

Bismuth Shot

Bismuth shot was the first steel alternative after the federal ban of lead shot in the United States. With a far more impressive density compared to steel (roughly 9.6 compared to 7.8), bismuth proved to be a much more fatal alternative while also being much less harsh on shotguns, especially older ones.

The introduction of bismuth also had its downsides though. Unfortunately, it’s an extremely brittle metal that was inconsistent and had a lack of durability during contact with larger birds. Combining this with its price point higher than steel, it was hard for consumers to make that switch.

The good news is that technology has caught up and improved upon those inferior earlier designs. After nearly a decade with a small market presence, bismuth has made an impressive comeback in recent years with its developments of durable metal blends, bridging that gap for waterfowlers who want better kinetic energy without paying tungsten price.

Tungsten

Tungsten has become a staple as the most effective and lethal shot option for waterfowlers, turkey hunters and upland enthusiasts alike. Tungsten super shot (TSS) has 60% greater density than the once-beloved lead shot and nearly twice the density as steel, making it a bird crusher!

Due to its high density and velocity, hunters can get the same knockdown power with smaller shot sizes, allowing for a much larger kill zone. To put this into perspective, the amount of penetration you would get from using No. 4 tungsten at 40 yards is still nearly 10% greater than the penetration you would get from using steel shot at 20 yards. This equates to fewer wounded birds and quicker limits.

The drawback to shooting tungsten is an extremely high price point. Apex Ammunition is one of the leaders in the market for tungsten waterfowl loads. For a price comparison, its TSS ammo is currently priced at nearly $5 per round, compared to its steel blend, which is roughly 92 cents per round. While this price gap can be somewhat astounding, the argument remains that while you may pay more for TSS per round, you’ll be shooting fewer shots and bagging more birds.

Best Bang For Your Buck

Whether you decide to use steel shot, bismuth, or TSS will ultimately come down to your experiences with each, your budget, and the value you see in the options. It’s no secret that while the lead ban took away a very deadly and affordable option, it is an incredible conservation move for protecting our wildlife, and there are options on the market that perform at the same level and even higher, even if at a higher price point. In my experience, using TSS has proven to be well worth the money given its knockdown power and the ability to use smaller shot sizes, giving me a lower margin of error and, thus, more harvested birds. Having said that, I am friends with many avid bird hunters who swear by the effectiveness of modern steel and bismuth loads, and their success is hard to argue with. I would encourage everybody to at least experience all three and make your decision based on how well they perform for you! Good luck this season!

READ MORE: TICK EASE FOUNDER “TICK MAN DAN” TELLS ALL ON THE DANGERS OF THESE PESTS

Here are four ways to try controlling scent on your hunting clothes this season, and two that maybe you should avoid.

Whether you are trying to get the human scent off of your deer hunting clothes, or trying to add some that could change the game, we all know one thing when it comes to our favorite quarry: their noses rule and we have to try and beat them!

Deer will see you, hear you and smell your human odor before you ever know that they are there. Turn the tide with some of these tried-and-true, but not very well-known methods of adding scent to your clothes.

They just might fool that big whitetail into thinking you’re something else.

1. Pack it in the pines

First, get over to the dollar store and pick up some of those small, drawstring, linen jewelry pouches. Next, get yourself outside and find the nearest set of pine trees.

Now, fill the bags with green needles and pack them in every inch of your hunting clothes. You really can’t overdo it too much, as pine scent is so very prevalent in most wooded areas. Pack everything in a new garbage bag and let it simmer.

Once you take your clothes out and start hunting, leave the pouches in the bag and put your clothes back in to store for the next hunt.

2. Add some smoke and ash

Like baking soda, ash is a great odor remover, and you can basically use it in the same way. You can bag it the same way, but you’ll have to be more careful working with it. You’ll want to start outside at the fire pit, and since you’re there, start a fire!

Bring some of your other items that you want to get ready for your hunt and let them get some of that smoke “flavor” as well. Deer aren’t spooked by smoke and it’s a great cover-up. I know people that swear by smoking little cigars when they hunt, so why not the natural stuff?

3. Put some oak fruit on it

I hunt the oaks. There’s an oak bottom swamp I’ve been hunting for the last 10 years that has deer trails running in and out of it like an eight-cylinder piston with acorns everywhere.

I’ve learned that above and beyond making my clothes scent-free, adding a little acorn scent is like cooking a steak on the grill to us. Use the garbage bag method and toss in some cotton balls that have been dressed with one dip of the bottle of acorn scent. Too much can be a bad thing with this as you don’t want to stink like an acorn factory.

4. Have it there waiting for you

What smells more like your hunting area than… your hunting area? It needs to be done after a frost or in colder weather. It is best in the more northern climates as insect penetration can happen if you’re not careful.

You’ll need to check the weather to determine just how long you could leave it out there. I’ll leave my coat and bibs out overnight at least as they’re the last thing I’ll put on anyway.

Now, here are two ways that I used for years that I do not recommend for obvious reasons. Ticks carrying Lyme disease present a real danger nowadays, and it’s no longer feasible to try these methods, but to each their own.

Since it’s not easy for most to take their clothes out into the woods to get that natural smell that we all want, you might try this at your own risk.

5. Put it on the wood pile

Again, wait for the first real frost. I always liked to put it on there in a way that I could leave it for days at a time. There’s nothing I like more than fresh oak or ash logs split and ready to burn except when they’re leaving their scent on my hunting clothes.

6. Bury it in the leaves

Leaf litter is everywhere. It might be the most natural smelling thing you could use to make your outerwear the stuff that will bend that big buck’s nose the other way while you’re right in front of him.

I used to put my clothes on the wood pile and then bury it with leaves! Since your yard is probably full of them and you’re sick of raking it all, try putting it to good use.

Given that we’re all looking for an edge, maybe one of these methods will help you to get a little closer to your buck. After all, success is what we’re all chasing out there and maybe this will help!

All photos by Craig Raleigh

NEXT: 11 THINGS THAT EVERY DEER HUNTER DIDN’T KNOW THEY NEEDED

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Almost as important as tea processing is tea harvesting. As you may know, simply growing the tea plants can be a major challenge for the farmers, and it can take years to perfect.

Finally, after all the work the farmers have put into growing the tea, it comes time to pick the leaves. The tea harvest is something that comes a few times a year and it can actually determine the quality of a tea in many cases. The quality of a tea is not just determined by how the tea is grown and processed, but also how it is picked.

This said, let’s go into the detail to understand the tea harvesting process 🍃🍵

What is tea harvesting?

Harvesting tea leaves is an important stage in the tea production process. As you may know by now, a farmer can greatly change the flavor of a tea by harvesting tea leaves from different parts of the tea plant or at different times. This is one of the many calculations a farmer needs to make, in order to improve the flavor of the tea he produces, and to maximize the yield of his tea field.

How to Harvest Camellia sinensis

Harvesting tea leaves is just like harvesting the leaves of any other plant. You want to ideally pick the leaves at the stem, so it doesn’t interfere with the integrity of the leaf itself. Tea harvesting can require a lot of skill and it can be a full time job. For a tea like gyokuro for example, one of the most prized leaf teas in Japan, you need to pick the top three leaves of the tea plant. These are the sweetest in flavor and highest in nutrients.

You first need to identify the top three leaves of the tea plant and then you need to grasp the stem of the tea plant a few millimeters below the third leaf. Then you can gently pull up until you hear a small pop sound, and the leaf should be separated. This method of harvesting tea leaves is extremely time consuming but it can yield great quality green tea.

How many times can you harvest tea in a year?

Harvesting tea leaves is something that can happen up to 4 times per year. After the tea is harvested for the first time in early spring, it can then be harvested a second time in June or July. Tea from the second harvest is the second highest in nutrients and flavor, so it is often used for more inexpensive teas. Farmers may also combine leaves from the first and second harvest to lower the price of the tea, while still providing plenty of flavor. During the summer, the temperatures in much of Japan can get quite hot, so it is a lot of work to harvest during this time.

The tea plant can be harvested a third time in late summer, but this is really more common in southern Japan. The third harvest of the plant will produce very low quality tea that is lower in nutrients. The tea plant needs sufficient time to pull nutrients from the soil and when it is harvested in such a short amount of time, it is unable to produce as strong of a flavor.

In mid October or mid November, some tea plants will be harvested for a fourth and final time. This is known to some as Aki Bancha, or fall harvest. Some farmers choose to sell this tea to customers, but farmers like Mr. Watanabe in Yakushima have a different plan for the leaves. He harvests the leaves in fall and then actually uses them as a fertilizer for the plant. His thought behind this is that the tea plant has absorbed nutrients from the soil all year, so now it must return some at the end of the year.

How are the best leaves selected?

If you are producing a premium quality Japanese green tea, it has to come from the first harvest. The tea plant is harvested up to 4 times from April, all the way to November and the quality declines with each harvest. After the last tea harvest in November, the tea plant has all winter to build up nutrients and it releases those nutrients in the first sprouts of the spring time. These fresh spring leaves are the most flavorful, and therefore they command the highest price.

Tea picked during the first harvest is called ‘Shincha‘ and it is one of the highest regarded teas in Japan. Serious tea drinkers will wait around all year to be among the first to purchase the new Shincha harvest in springtime. This practice used to be more common decades ago, but now with the widespread use of refrigeration, the tea can be kept fresh all throughout the year. Shincha tea, like the Shincha from Mr. Nuruki can be quite flavorful, with a light sweet and savory flavor.

Once fall comes around in Japan, it becomes especially important for farmers to fertilize their tea crop. The soil must be set up for the long winter ahead, so the tea plant can rest and absorb nutrients ahead of the spring harvest. A lot of farmers will use a type of straw on the base of the tea plants. This serves a few important purposes. First, it allows the tea plant to retain moisture by locking in water. It also fertilizes the tea plant and keeps the roots warm through the winter.

After a long winter, the sprouts of the tea plant will begin to come up in the spring and soon they are able to be harvested. The most common way to harvest the tea plant in Japan is with this motorized tea harvesting machine. This is the most efficient way to harvest tea, and it’s one of the reasons why the tea plants are organized in these neat rows. The harvester will trim these like hedges and overtime they will develop a neatly carved shape.

Tea Harvester

The tea harvester is one of the more common tools used in tea harvesting. This tool is operated by two people, as they hold each side of the machine and walk along each side of the tea rows to trim the top leaves.

After being cut, these leaves are kept inside a net and collected afterwards. This tea harvester combines the precision of hand picking with the speed of the mechanical tea harvester, which we will mention next.

Mechanical Tea Harvester

The mechanical tea harvester is an innovative invention when it comes to harvesting tea leaves. This machine is essentially a combine that can be drive between the rows of the tea plant and automatically harvest them. The advantage of the mechanical tea harvester is that it is much faster than the hand held tea harvester. It simply skims the top of the tea bush to trim the top leaves of the tea plant and collect them into a net.

The downside of the mechanical tea harvester is that it is not as accurate as the hand held tea harvester. Because the mechanical tea harvester is so large, it is very difficult to control and you can be as precise with the harvesting as you can be with the hand held version. The results will show up in the leaves. You want larger leaves in the case of gyokuro and sencha and as long as the leaves look good, the tea harvester must work just fine!

Is a Tea Harvester better than a Mechanical Tea Harvester?

Technically the regular hand held tea harvester is better than the mechanical tea harvester, but there are a few different variables. The mechanical tea harvester is large and less maneuverable, but as long as all the tea rows are the same height, it should be able to get the job done. For this reason tea harvested with the mechanical tea harvester is not necessarily worse, it just comes down to what the final leaves end up looking like.

Handpicked tea leaves

Occasionally, tea like ceremonial matcha and Gyokuro will be made with hand picked leaves. This method of tea harvesting extremely expensive in Japan, but the benefit is that the leaves are picked perfectly. On one day out of the year, people from all around the town will gather on this field to pick the fresh sprouts of the tea plant. There is a precise method to their picking. They want to select the top 3 leaves of the tea plant, so they will pick slightly underneath the third leaf. Once the leaf has been picked, they will drop it into their basket and then look for the next one.

If a farmer wants to produce a more inexpensive tea like Bancha, they will select leaves lower down on the tea plant, along with some stems as well. This method of tea harvesting can give the farmer a much higher yield. The leaves are more mature, and not quite as flavorful. The more mature leaves of a Bancha are lower in caffeine and they can produce a quite pleasant citrusy flavor, with notes of cereal, popcorn and wood.

As you can see, the harvest can be an important factor in determining how prized a tea is. Depending on when it is picked, how it is picked and where on the tea plant it is picked, the tea can be in a completely different category. If you are interested in trying some first harvest teas with larger leaf pickings, we highly suggest you checkout our selection of gyokuro teas. These teas are designed to have an incredibly sweet flavor and a savory finish. They are known as being the most sought after leaf teas in Japan and a lot of work goes into their harvest. Try them out for yourself and let us know what you think!

The cottonwood tree is one of the most popular tree species in the world. Going by the scientific name Populus Deltoides, the tree originates from and is common in North America, growing in the US, Canada, and Mexico.

Read on to learn more about how to identify this beautiful tree…

The trees come in different varieties and are identified quite easily using their subspecies names. Cottonwood trees growing in southern Canada and the Eastern US come from the subspecies Deltoides, while those growing in the Southern part of Canada and the Central sections of the US go by the subspecies name Monilifera. The Wislizeni subspecies grows in the southern parts of Colorado, Texas, and Mexico.

All these subspecies of the cottonwood tree can grow to a height of up to 60 meters and a diameter of about 3 meters, making it one of the largest hardwood trees in North America.

For optimal growth, the trees grow around rivers and floodplains to access water.

As noted earlier, the cottonwood tree has three different subspecies spread out across North America. The Deltoides subspecies grow in the southern-eastern parts of Canada and the Eastern parts of the US. Some of the notable areas include Ontario, Quebec, North Dakota, and Texas.

In comparison, the Monilifera subspecies grow in south-central Canada, the central US, and New Mexico. Cities in these areas include Manitoba and Alberta.

The final subspecies of the tree is termed Wislizeni. It grows mostly in southern Colorado, Texas, Mexico, and California. Identifying the cottonwood tree and distinguishing each of these tree species is quite a task. Fortunately, we’ve got you covered. In the next sections, we offer a guide on identifying the cottonwood trees and distinguishing their various varieties. We will start by looking at how cottonwood trees germinate and spread.

How Cottonwood Tree Seeds Germinate and Spread

As noted earlier, the eastern cottonwood tree grows mostly in the east side of the US, stretching all the way into Canada. The tree grows in a wide range of soil types. However, for optimal growth, well-drained soils along river banks are recommended.

The tree is also diecious, implying the male and female flowers grow on separate trees.1 Usually, the male flowers and buds grow earlier than female buds. They also tend to bloom much faster than their female counterparts.

The seeds of the tree develop in capsules hosted by short stalks. Under most conditions, the trees start producing seeds at the age of 5 to 10 years. Seed dispersal happens about two months after flowering. Water and wind are the seed’s main dispersal agents. Since most cottonwood trees grow around water bodies, the water medium and winds in such locations carry the seeds, dispersing them in the process. Unfortunately, the viability of the seeds is a bit low. To germinate, they must find moist seedbeds or be immersed in water, conditions that are not always readily available.

Nevertheless, the seeds can enjoy a germination rate of as high as 90 percent under the right conditions.1 These optimal conditions include sufficient sunlight to supply solar energy and soil moisture to supply water for photosynthesis. The growth of the seeds starts slowly.

Once the root zone is developed, the rate of growth is much faster. This fast and steady pace of growth is maintained throughout the tree’s lifetime. One feature of the tree worth noting that affects its growth is its shading tolerance.

In this regard, cottonwood trees are shade intolerant. They are one of the most shade-intolerant hardwood tree species, coming second to only the Black Willow.

Both of these trees grow in the same areas, competing for light and water. However, cottonwood trees tend to outgrow Black Willows, especially in stable water and sunlight levels1 Having discussed how cottonwood trees germinate, let’s now review how the trees look like.

What Do Cottonwood Trees Look Like?

Flowers of Cottonwood Trees

Cottonwood trees are easy to identify from their flowers, leaves, barks, and seeds. The male and female flowers grow on separate trees, a property identified by the term dioecious.2

The flowers are contained in about 3 inches of catkins. Each catkin has about 15 to 40 buds and is uniform in length. The flowers in the catkins appear before the leaves and are usually pollinated by winds.

The male flowers in the catkins protrude from the tree’s branches in clusters of about 2 to 4 inches. They are typically red and yellow with between 30 and 40 stamens. In comparison, female flowers are green and appear singly. Each female flower has a separate stalk.

Leaves of Cottonwood Trees

The leaves of cottonwood trees are triangular with a heart-shaped base that tapers to a long-pointed tip. They can grow to about 7 inches long and 5 inches wide and are shiny green on the top and slightly pale on the underside.2

The stalks of the leaves are long and slender, with two glands at the top. The heterophyllous property of the leaf is perhaps its most distinguishing property. Regarding this, cottonwood trees have two types of leaves; those formed during early winter and those produced later in the season.

The trees use the leaves that grow in early winter for early spring growth, while those growing later in the season are for full maturity. The leaves are distinguishable based on their size and number of teeth, with the former having smaller and fewer teeth than the latter.

Barks of Cottonwood Trees

The barks of cottonwood trees vary in texture, color, and furrowed depth depending on the tree’s age. Typically, young trees will have smooth, shallow furrowed, light grey to yellow-green bark. 2

As the trees grow and mature, the bark’s color changes to gray and becomes rougher, and deeply furrowed. The twigs from the bark are brown and angled, with large buds of about three-quarter inches long. Green-brown resin scales cover the bark of the tree.

Seeds of Cotton Wood Trees

The seeds of cottonwood trees are formed after the pollination of flowers. Before fertilization, female catkins are about 6 inches long. Once fertilized, they produce elliptical shaped seed capsules that are initially green in color.

With time, the seeds turn brown, and the capsules split, releasing about 7 to 10 seeds. The seeds are usually attached to a white cotton-like thread that is easily dispersed by the wind.

Cottonwood trees start producing seeds at five years old, with their peak productivity coming at fifteen years.2 From that point onward, the trees will continue producing seeds for the rest of their life cycle.

Habitats of Cottonwood Trees

Cottonwoods grow in mostly riparian areas such as streams, rivers, and wetlands. The combined ecosystem of the cottonwood trees and marshlands offers an amazing habitat for different species of animals.

Some animals in this habitat include beavers, which feed on cottonwood’s tree barks, shoots, and stems. They also burrow holes into the trees to form their homes. Raptors, otherwise known as birds of prey, use cottonwoods as nests, while insects feed on the bark and other parts of the tree.

So vast is the biodiversity in cottonwood tree habitats that researchers estimate about 40 different animal species benefit from these trees.4 Other animal species in cottonwood forests include moose, deer, elk, insects, and birds.

The Cottonwood Tree Habitat’s Value to Plants

The Eastern cottonwood tree is by far the most predominant plant species in the flood plains of the US. The floods in these locations create ideal conditions for the growth of trees and other species.

Within these locations, cottonwood trees grow in pure and mixed stands. Other tree species that grow side by side with the cottonwood tree in these habitats include the white oak, black-berry, American hornbeam, and basswood. These riparian habitats that host cottonwood trees are also known to have common shrubs such as the Northern spicebush, black tupelo, and sand oak.8

Graminoid tree species in the habitats include wheatgrass, sand dune, switchgrass, and Indiana grass. These habitats are also known to have forbs (herbaceous flowering plant other than a grass) and vines. Common ones include the Asian bittersweet, poison ivy, trumpet creeper, and Virginia creeper.

Some cottonwood species grow in plains. In such habitats, tree species associated with the cottonwood tree include the green ash, American elm, and Russian olive. Shrubs in plain cottonwood habitats include the rocky mountain marple, douglas hawthorn, and Eastern wahoo. Graminoids in this location include the blue grama, Cheatgrass, and Canada wildrye. Forbs and vines include the Virginia creeper, pepper vine, and long root smartweed.

The Cottonwood Tree Habitat’s Value to Animals

Cottonwood tree habitats are exceedingly important for animal life. Eastern cottonwood trees are classified as having a fair value for most wildlife species, including songbirds, game birds, and game mammals.

For example, the northern Great Plains, which hosts eastern cottonwood trees, provides about 50 percent of deer habitats and 70 percent of the habitats for the sharp tailed grouse. Palin cottonwood regions support about 82 percent of the bird species in Colorado.8

As noted earlier, cottonwoods have three subspecies. In more casual terminology, these subspecies are termed Eastern Cottonwood, Black Cottonwood, and Fremont Cottonwood. Each of these tree types has a unique set of characteristics that sets it apart from the others.

The Eastern Cottonwood Tree

This subspecies is most popular in North America. The tree grows in riparian areas and is considered one of the softest hardwood trees in the region.

The Black Cottonwood

This subspecies grows mostly in rocky mountains. Also called the Western Balsam poplar of the California poplar, this tree is the largest type of Western Cottonwood.

The Fremont Cottonwood

This subspecies grows in California, Utah, Arizona, and Mexico. The tree is quite like the Eastern Cottonwood, save for the larger and fewer leaves and differences in flower and seed pod appearance.

Identification Based on Location

Another way to identify cottonwood trees is by looking at the ecological characteristics of the location of the trees. As noted before, cottonwood trees grow well in areas with sufficient light. The trees are the second most shade-intolerant species in North America.

They also require a lot of water. So much water that most cottonwood trees are grown in riparian areas such as rivers, lakes, and marshlands. Knowing these prerequisite conditions for the growth of the trees makes it easy to locate them.

For instance, in North America, the US’s Central, Eastern and Southwestern states have these conditions. It is therefore not surprising that most of the cottonwood in the country grows in these regions. Similarly, in Canada, cottonwood trees grow along the lakes and rivers in Ontario. Again, these conditions are favorable for the trees. Finding them in such locations is therefore predictable. By knowing the optimal conditions for the growth of the trees, identifying them is as simple as matching the conditions to a corresponding ecosystem.

Identification Based on Nearby Tree Species

Another way to identify cottonwood trees is by looking at the nearby tree species. A limited number of tree species can grow under the conditions favored for cottonwood trees. Therefore, by knowing which trees can grow under similar conditions to cottonwood trees and identifying them, locating cottonwood trees growing nearby is fairly easy.

For example, the black willow tree grows under fairly the same environmental conditions as cottonwood trees. In many locations, the two tree species compete for sun and water. Thus, by identifying black willows in a given site, one is also likely to find cottonwood trees nearby.

Notably, cottonwood trees have more than just ecological value. They are also historical monuments. The story of the Kansas State Capitol – Cottonwood Tree illustrates the historical importance of the tree.

The cottonwood tree is one of the state symbols of Kansas, and is visible in old photos of the capital and the story of how a cottonwood tree became a city symbol is quite an interesting one.

One account provides that the cottonwood tree in the old photos of the Capitol grew in the east wing of the Capitol. It offered a much-appreciated shade for dignitaries of the city, including Benjamin Harrison and Vice President Curtis.

The Kansas Historical Society shares a much more reliable account. The story goes that T.J. Anderson moved to the city in 1865 and bought a house that faced the Capitol. At one point, he noticed a small tree of about three feet growing between some of the building’s stone. He and a fellow professor decided to preserve the tree even during the Capitol’s construction, and that is how it came to appear in the photos.

Fire would later ravage the Capitol’s cottonwood tree in 1882. In 1966 the tree experienced more damage, from the Topeka Tornado that happened that year. In 1983, the Secretary of State, Jack Brier, made several attempts to prevent the tree from collapsing.3 Despite all efforts, the tree finally collapsed at the end of that year.

As one of the native trees in North America, the Cottonwood tree delivered several benefits to the ancient communities of the region.5 Most native communities used the tree for religious practices. In particular, the native tribes of Pueblo and Navajo used the tree extensively in their spiritual practices.

Its roots were sometimes used to make Kachina dolls and other objects of worship used in traditional religious ceremonies. Other ancient tribes used the tree as a source of medicine. The community doctors would use the bark and leaves of the trees to make concoctions that many believed to have healing properties.

The uses of the tree went beyond religious and medicinal applications. Some native communities used the trees to make toys and dugout canoes for sea traveling. The large size of the tree’s trunk makes it possible to create such canoes, while the leaf’s shape makes it suitable for making toy whistles.

Others used the tree to make yellow dyes. The dye comes from the tree’s buds, which have chemicals that, once dried, produce the yellow pigment.

Some communities would even consume the seeds of the trees. The seeds have a sticky feel that gives a gum-like sensation that was a delicacy back in those days.5 Cottonwood trees continue to deliver these benefits and more today.

Modern Uses of Cottonwood Trees

The uses of cottonwood trees have since increased from their native applications. Presently, the tree is used primarily for making lumber and related products.6 The tree is suitable for such applications due to its moisture content and density.

In that regard, cottonwood trees have a very low moisture content of about 12 percent measured on a wet basis, and a light density of about 28 pounds per cubic foot.7 These properties make the tree light, but very strong… exactly what is needed for interior furniture applications.

Consequently, most lumber uses of the tree are limited to interior décor. The mentioned properties of the tree also make it exceedingly suitable for making wood pulp. Wood pulp has been increasing in popularity over the past few years. Cottonwood trees are used to make this pulp that is then used to produce high-quality papers for magazines and books. Important to note here is that the uses of cottonwood are limited to light applications, which, as stated earlier, are due to its low moisture content and light density.

In exterior furniture applications, using this tree is not recommended. Its light properties make it too fragile to carry the immense loads that exterior furniture typically carries. Other modern applications of the tree include usage in making food containers and packaging.

The Legacy of Cottonwood Trees in North America

Cottonwood trees are one of the most popular hardwoods in North America. The tree has several ancient uses, including making carvings used in religious festivals. Modern uses of the tree include mostly lumber and related products, where the tree’s low moisture content and light density is highly desired.

The trees are easy to identify by looking at their flowers, leaves, barks, and seeds, the details of which are covered extensively in this guide. Cottonwood trees also offer a habitat for various animal and plant species, some of which have been listed.

Beyond the mentioned benefits, cottonwood trees have historical value, too. Kansas uses the tree as one of its symbols, a metaphor for strength and longevity. With these tips for how to identify the trees based on their local names, location, and nearby tree species, you can start searching for these trees, and impress your friends with the subspecies.

These trees do more than all of this, though. As hardwood trees, they act as carbon sinks, meaning they suck a large amount of pre-existing carbon dioxide (CO2) out of the air. So, these trees actually have the power to not just slow down climate change, but actually reverse it with their carbon removal capabilities. It’s for this reason that the world needs to conserve these trees, to help them aid the Earth as a whole.

Magnification: 3-9XPower Variability: VariableObjective Diameter: 40 mmLength/Weight/Tube Diameter: 12.3 inches/13.3 ounces/1 inchField of View: 34.10 – 14.10 feet/100 yardsEye Relief/Exit Pupil: 4.20 – 3.60 inches/13.3 – 4.4 mmReticle: Duplex, Wide Duplex, LR DuplexAdjustment Info: 1/4 MOA/ClickOptics Coatings: Fully Multi-CoatedFinish: Black MatteWaterproof/Shockproof: Yes/YesParallax Setting: 150 yardsAirgun rated: NoIlluminated Reticle: NoMounting Rings Included: No

Best Uses: Big Game Hunting, Varmint Hunting, Target Shooting

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Leupold VX-1 Scope Review

The Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope is the all-purpose big game hunting scope that’ll perform exceptionally well for a variety of hunters. It doesn’t matter that this scope is on the lower price end for Leupold, you’re getting excellent value for your buck. It is waterproof, fog-proof and recoil-proof and features Leupold’s Quantum Optical System. ‘What is that?’ I hear you ask, you will have to keep reading to get the answer.

Reviewers are chirping the same high praises I have for this scope, with a stunning rating from loads of feedback to date. In fact, many reviewers gave this VX-1 a perfect score. This scope is far from being a bottom-barrel scope considering it is one of Leupold’s most affordable optics.

Out of the four models in the VX-1 series, I had to go with the most versatile and practical 3-9X40 scope for this review. It’s no debate that these dimensions are the most commonly used among hunters, that and the fact that the price is well-suited for most hunters budgets, is what made this scope an obvious pick.

Although this Leupold is the first of the VX series and is at the bottom end for their line, it’s still better quality and a better buy than other brands high end scopes. Take a peek at the Q&A to get a full rundown of what this great value scope has to offer.

Pros:

• Price
• Aesthetic appeal
• Eco-friendly glass
• Excellent quality coatings
• Made in USA

Cons:

• No complex ballistic reticle

VX-1 3-9X40 Rifle Scope Q&A:

What is the Quantum Optical System on the VX-1 rifle scope?

This rifle scope, and all of the the VX (Variable Power) series scopes, have Leupold’s Quantum Optical System that combines sophisticated mechanisms, engineering and science expertise, and industry-leading optical designs to create a whole new experience with a variable power rifle scope.

They’re made with lead-free, environmentally-friendly glass compositions that’s undergone a thorough and scrutinous refining process to ensure the glass produces as much of a razor-sharp image quality as possible.

The short answer? It’s a souped-up and pimped-out system that gets you the best glass for the best image and best light transmission possible. You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.

Is this a low budget rifle scope?

While the VX-1 has a low budget price, it’s actually a mid-range rifle scope that looks more like a premium one. I say low budget because you can get it for less than $200 when you buy online, in fact, we named it one of our top picks for a rifle scope under $200. Otherwise, you’re going to find it in the price range of anywhere between $200 to $450.

The sleek feature that also makes it look like a premium scope is the lack of slapping on intrusive brand labels and the like with contrasting white lettering. Leupold keeps it classy and simple with bare minimum gold accents on the black matte finish.

Where is the Leupold rifle scope made?

All of Leupold rifle scopes are designed, manufactured, assembled, and packaged in their factory in Oregon, USA. They haven’t been outsourced overseas to Japan, China, Germany, or the Philippines – not that outsourced rifle scopes aren’t good, but it’s satisfying to own American-made products that are unmatched.

What style reticles are available with the VX-1?

This Leupold VX-1 rifle scope has the popular, clean, and non-distracting reticle there is – the classic Duplex cross-hair.

The only other available reticle with this rifle scope is the LR Duplex that features two dots on the elevation cross hair below the center to serve as a basic bullet drop compensator.

Noteworthy Features:

• Quantum Optical System for the most advanced variable power ranging scope
• Leupold’s Multicoat 4 for 92% light transmission and pristine, crystal clear images
• 1/4 MOA clicks that are finger-adjustable for easy rotations
• Fully waterproof, recoil-proof, and fog-proof
• Available with the LR Duplex reticle for long distance shots
• American classic style eyepiece with low profile lockable ring
• Light-weight and compact for field hunting and scouting
• Easy to mount, super fast and simple to sight in
• Made in the USA

Our Verdict on the VX1 3-9X40

According to the bull’s-eye, the Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope has more reach than you think – it’s all in the glass. The glass is world-class, the coatings are top-notch, and the quality is unbeatable. The only thing that it’s missing is a more advanced ballistic reticle option. It is available with a simple LR Duplex reticle, but it would be nice to see something that can match its quality and potential.

However, doubling your budget can land you the VX-3i 3.5-10X40 where you have the option of buying the Boone & Crockett reticle. Or, you could just sneak your way online into Leupold’s Custom Shop and upgrade your VX-1 with any of the 18 available reticles like the super-cool TMOA reticle. Ouch, we can already feel the penny pinching going on!

Moving on and staying on budget, the Redfield Revolution 3-9X40 scope would be the VX-1’s closest alternative. Maybe it has something to do with its relationship to Leupold? If you pay close attention to the full Revolution review, you’ll know exactly what we’re talking about!

The VX-1 has earned it’s place in the hunting world, and it’s on the Top 100 Best Seller’s List as a very popular and in-demand scope. To sum it up, we’ve already said it perfectly. With the VX-1, “You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.” ‘Nuff said.

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Further Reading

• 27 Tips to Help You Understand Rifle Scope Parallax Adjustments Today
• Atibal XP8 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (Second Focal Plane)
• ATN THOR LT 320 3-6X Thermal Rifle Scope Review
• ATN X-Sight 4K Buckhunter 5-20x Riflescope Review
• ATN X-Sight II 5-20X Night Vision Scope Review – HD Resolution (Day/Night Compatible)

Private land ownership and property information is a key value of onX Hunt—and, for many, one of the key reasons they choose to continue their onX membership. Hunters, hikers, and anyone heading into the outdoors depend on the onX Hunt App to show them an array of information, including public/private boundaries and land ownership information.

We have a variety of in-house teams here at onX who spend their days aggregating and managing data from various sources; information which then flows into our three apps. Day in and day out, we’re working within our system to ensure we remain the source to which you can confidently turn when you’re heading into the field and need accurate information.

While we source all information from a broad variety of sources, one of the most challenging is maintaining updated private land ownership information. We’re beholden to external sources for this information, and can only update our information within the onX Hunt App when these sources themselves are updated.

In an effort to ensure the most accurate land ownership information enters the App, we work with a variety of data sources around the country to gather information, including several private data providers as well as directly from a state and/or a county. Some government sources only update their files once a year, while others update weekly or not at all. The ownership info found in the 3,143 U.S. county databases doesn’t always match other databases—we know, because we check. Utilizing private data providers in addition to government sources allows us to unlock new methods of update delivery and frequency that, put quite simply, government sources sometimes lack. For some counties and some states, accurate and updated government public parcel data is challenging to source, and private sources can help us bridge those data gaps.

This parcel data comes in two different categories: spatial and attribution. Changes in spatial data means the parcel size itself has changed (for example, a single parcel has split in half, or two parcels have merged), and this information always comes from the relevant county. Attribution, as the name would suggest, represents the name of the parcel owner and other details such as address, tax ID, and additional details. We use both private and county sources to source this attribution information, as sometimes private vendors have faster ways of updating this information than the counties themselves. Eventually, the county will update attribution information and send it out; however, that process has been known to take years.

At onX, we have individuals who seek out and vet sources throughout the year to determine whether the data they provide would be better than whatever data a given state or county is currently supplying. Each of these sources is updated at various intervals depending on the state or county, and then we take their updated data and verify it through our own systems before moving it into the apps.

Once we have the updated private parcel data information, our in-house mapping team works to confirm the changes using a mixture of manual and automatic review processes, cleaning the parcel geometries and ensuring boundaries match. If there are issues, our curation team will step in and assist with the process. Once the data is ready, we adjust the information within our system, and then confirm the alignment of the new boundaries to existing public lands boundaries. Once the information is confirmed and verified, it will then be added to the next App update flow.

In short, if an official data source has not updated its land ownership records, we don’t have new information to flow into our Apps.

So, what does this mean for you if you or a friend has a property that’s showing incorrect ownership information in the onX Hunt App? While we may be waiting for new data to process through the county or state level, you can reach out to our team directly and submit a map error. Include as many details as possible—the more information, the better! The error report is sent directly to our mapping team, who will verify the information. If the report is verified, it will be corrected the next time we update the area. We continually work to help make all of these processes more efficient so we can move data more quickly while maintaining our high standard of quality.

Map accuracy is a cornerstone of how we work at onX. While many of our competitors only pull ownership data from a single source, we utilize a variety of different sources, cross-referencing and doing our own in-house comparisons to ensure the data that makes it into the Hunt App is as accurate as possible. However, we’re still held to relying upon the counties and our other data partners to keep their information up-to-date and accurate. It takes a great deal of time and effort to gather the data, format it for use in our maps, double-check everything and finally release the update, so we appreciate your patience throughout the process.

Thank you for helping us correct any errors from our data sources. You have the power to help us correct these errors—help us find the mistakes and to keep the information updated. We take the data within our maps very seriously, and work intently to ensure you’re getting the best possible information within our apps.

You may know about a few expensive mushroom varieties like truffles, but there are also some very rare and expensive mushroom varieties you may not have heard of.

This article will teach you about a dozen of the most expensive mushrooms in the world. You’ll learn how much each type costs and why they’re so expensive.

Why Are Some Mushrooms So Much More Expensive Than Others?

The most expensive mushrooms in the world only grow in the wild and are difficult or impossible for farmers to cultivate.

Since they can’t be mass-produced and only grow for a certain period of the year, they’re more scarce.

Varieties of fungi like truffles also grow under the ground, which makes them even harder to find, and therefore more costly (in time and money) to extract.

What Are the Most Expensive Mushrooms?

How many of these costly mushrooms have you heard of?

1. Kalahari Truffles

Cost: $4 per pound (£6.45 per kilogram)

Truffles have a reputation of being some of the most expensive types of fungi.

But though these truffles grown in the Kalahari Desert in Namibia, Africa may run slightly more expensive than your average grocery store button mushroom, they’re actually quite affordable.

Compared to the more popular white or black truffles, they have a more mild flavor and scent.

Their cheaper price is based on the fact that they grow in more sandy ground. They’re easy to find by looking for cracks in the sandy earth, so there’s no need to use truffle dogs or pigs to locate them.

2. Enoki Mushrooms

Cost: $8 per pound (£12.90 per kilogram)

Enoki mushrooms are now widely available in many grocery stores in North America and Europe. However, they don’t look like most other types of mushrooms that you can buy.

They have long, thin white stems with very small caps. They also tend to grow in clumps.

These little mushrooms have a mild flavor and make a nice addition to stir-fries. As long as they’re not overcooked, they tend to retain a lot of crunch.

3. Oyster Mushrooms

Price: $5 to $15 per pound (£8 to £24 per kilogram)

Oyster mushrooms are the second-most-common mushroom in North America and Europe.

They are exceeded in popularity only by the agaricus bisporus mushroom (which includes button mushrooms, cremini and portobello).

Oyster mushrooms are one of the easiest mushrooms to grow at home. Many mushroom farmers now grow them and they can even be grown from kits right on your kitchen counter.

Since they’re so easy to grow, they’re naturally the least expensive mushroom on our list.

These fungi are available in a wide range of colors including grey, white, pink, blue and others.

They’re best used fresh within a few days of harvesting, but they can also be dried.

4. Lion’s Mane

Price: $10 per pound (£16 per kilogram)

Lion’s mane is an interesting-looking mushroom with long, white spines. It looks a bit like a tiny mop, clump of hair or a little white hedgehog.

The flavor of lion’s mane is said to be similar to lobster or crab meat. You can eat these mushrooms raw but cooking lion’s mane enhances their flavor and texture.

Historically, lion’s mane was harvested from the wild. Now it’s fairly easy to cultivate in controlled environments.

Aside from being edible, lion’s mane is also used for its medicinal properties.

While lion’s mane sells for about $10 per pound when fresh, it can sell for significantly more when dried and powdered for use as a supplement.

Check out Growing Lion’s Mane Mushrooms: The Ultimate Guide if you’d like to try growing some for yourself.

5. Shiitake Mushrooms

Price: $7 to $15 per pound (£11 to £24 per kilogram), fresh

Shiitakes have been the favorite variety of mushrooms in many Asian countries for a while. They’re now quite popular in the west as well.

These fungi have a firm texture and a meaty flavor, which makes them great as a meat alternative in vegetarian recipes.

Many supermarkets and grocery stores now carry fresh shiitake mushrooms. They can also be found dried in bulk as well.

Shiitake mushrooms can be fairly easily cultivated, either indoor under controlled conditions, or outdoor when grown on logs. So they’re less expensive than most varieties on this list.

Although shiitake is mostly grown as an edible mushroom, it’s considered to have some medicinal benefits as well.

If you’ve got some spare logs laying around, try growing some shiitake using our resource How To Grow Mushrooms On Logs: The Ultimate Guide

6. Morels

Price: $30 to $90 (£21 to £65) per pound when fresh, $250 (£180) per pound or more dried.

Morels are some of the most sought-after varieties of fungus by mushroom hunters.

Once a mushroom hunter locates an area where morels grow, they’ll tend to keep it secret for just their family and friends. Morels will continue to grow back in the same place year after year.

Morels are very difficult to cultivate and they’re only available fresh for a few months each year in the wild. So they tend to command a high price.

They’re one of the most expensive mushrooms in the USA

7. Porcini Mushrooms

Price: $50 to $70 per pound (£80 to 112 per kilogram), dried

The porcini or king bolete mushroom is found in hardwood forests across Europe. They’re most common in Italy, although they can also be found in parts of North America as well.

You can recognize porcini mushrooms by their oversized caps and thick stems.

As with most expensive mushrooms, porcinis are difficult to cultivate.

So they’re harvested from the wild when they’re in season and then dried out to be sold around the world during the rest of the year.

8. Chanterelles

Price: $200 per pound (£320 per kilogram), dried.

Among most mushroom hunters, chanterelles are second only to morels.

These golden-yellow mushrooms are distinct and fairly easy to spot, without many look-alikes. However, they can cause illness and discomfort when eaten raw and need to be cooked.

They tend to pop up on warm humid days after rainfall.

Like most expensive mushroom varieties, they’re very difficult to cultivate and the majority are harvested from the wild.

If you happen to get your hands on some tasty chanterelles, be sure to read 30 Of The Best Mushroom Recipe Ideas to make the most of them.

9. Black Truffles

Price: $800 per pound (£1290 per kilogram) fresh

Black truffles are the most well-known type of truffle. Even though they aren’t as expensive as white truffles, they still come with a hefty price tag.

Like their white counterparts, black truffles are mostly found in the wild using pigs and dogs.

Some American and Australian mushroom producers have attempted to grow black truffles with limited success.

Since these fungi tend to grow at the base of mature oak trees, it’s a time-consuming and expensive endeavor.

That also makes black truffles some of the most expensive mushrooms to grow.

Most black truffles are bought by chefs at high-end restaurants.

There is even a bit of a “black market” for these truffles. There are numerous fake “black truffle oil” products on the market that are actually made from synthetic chemicals, rather than fungi.

10. Matsutake Mushrooms

Price: $1,000 to $2,000 per pound (£1600 to £3200 per kilogram)

Matsutake mushrooms are native to Japan. They look a bit similar to shiitake mushrooms, with shaggy brown caps. However, they have longer stems.

This Japanese mushroom has a distinct spicy smell and taste.

Like with products such as green tea, there are varying degrees of quality when it comes to matsutake mushrooms.

The best-quality mushrooms at the beginning of the harvest season command the highest prices.

Within Japan, you may be able to find them toward the end of the season for as little as $2 per pound, though.

For importing matsutake mushrooms into Europe or North America, the average cost is about $90 (£65) per kilogram.

The matsutake harvest has been drastically reduced over the past 50 years due to a pine-killing pest that affects the trees that matsutake grows around.

11. European White Truffles

Price: Anywhere from $1,000 to $4,000 per pound (£1600 to £6445 per kilogram), depending on the harvest that year.

White truffles are the rarest and most expensive of all the truffle varieties.

Although white truffles are actually quite common across Europe, they’re notoriously hard to find. Truffle hunters will often employ trained truffle dogs or pigs to help locate these expensive fungi.

So far, no farmer has successfully cultivated white truffles. That’s why the price still remains so high.

What Is the Most Expensive Mushroom in the World?

So what’s the most expensive mushroom in the world? The winner is…

The yartsa gunbu mushroom (Cordyceps sinensis).

Price: $50,000 per pound (£80,500 per kilogram), or $2,000 for a single ounce.

If you clicked this link while wondering how to grow the most expensive mushrooms in the world, things are about to get a little weird.

This mushroom is also known as the caterpillar fungus and for good reason. It infects the bodies of a specific species of caterpillars.

The fungus kills its host and then grows out of the caterpillar.

As you can imagine, these little mushroom fungi are hard to locate in the wild.

The caterpillars typically bury themselves a few inches into the ground before they die.

These mushrooms have also never been cultivated in a controlled environment.

Yartsa gunbu or cordyceps mushrooms are believed to be an aphrodisiac. It’s claimed to have other medicinal benefits as well.

Many people also simply eat them as a status symbol because of their rarity and cost.

Want to try growing something a bit more straightforward? See our article The five Easiest Mushrooms to Grow.

What Is the Rarest Mushroom?

The yartsa gunbu also wins the prize for rarest mushroom.

It’s not just that these mushrooms are only found in the wild growing out of caterpillars. They also only grow in a specific area as well.

These exceedingly rare and expensive mushrooms are mostly only found around the Himalayas, at altitudes from 3,000 to 5,000 meters (9,000 to 16,000 feet) above sea level.

Is There Any Cheaper Alternative?

Very few people are willing to pay $50,000 per pound (£80,500 per kilogram) for some mushrooms that grow out of caterpillars.

Luckily, there’s a much cheaper option.

While cordyceps sinensis is extremely rare and needs to be harvested from the wild, it does have a close relative that offers most of the same benefits.

Cordyceps militaris can be easily cultivated on much more conventional growing mediums (rice and soy) without the need to sacrifice insects to get it.

That means you can buy bottles of cordyceps militaris capsules for about $20 (£14.40), when the same amount of cordyceps sinensis would cost over $1,000 (£720).

Final Thoughts

There are some truly rare mushrooms out there, including some that cost thousands of dollars or pounds per serving.

What makes a particular type of mushroom expensive is usually an inability to cultivate it. Wild mushrooms only grow during a certain part of the year and they’re difficult to find.

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This delicious pan-seared rockfish is made with fish seared in butter and oil, and then served with a lemon and caper pan sauce.

This year has had its ups and downs, but for us there has been one constant.

We’ve had a freezer full of amazing seafood.

Since we knew we’d be home (not traveling) for quite some time, we signed up for monthly seafood deliveries from a CSF (community supported fishery).

And guys, it’s made the year a little bit easier.

If you’re looking for a CSF to join, I can highly recommend the one we joined, Sitka Salmon Shares.

One of our monthly fish deliveries included black rockfish (or black bass). We immediately made blackened rockfish tacos (yum!), but next I wanted to try a recipe where I could taste the rockfish more clearly.

This pan-seared rockfish is based on one of my all-time favorite fish recipes, Julia Child’s fish meunière (fish in butter sauce), and is served with an easy lemon caper sauce.

Looking for more white fish recipes? Try these: pan-seared lingcod, baked lingcod with tomato caper sauce, broiled cod, broiled halibut, pan-seared halibut, pan-seared hake, and halibut tacos.

What Does Rockfish Taste Like?

It depends on the type of rockfish you’re buying!

The black rockfish I used was a mild, flaky fish.

In the past, I’ve purchased Pacific rockfish at Aldi that had a somewhat stronger flavor profile. It was still quite tasty.

Can I Make This Pan-Seared Rockfish Gluten-Free?

Yes, absolutely!

Before pan-searing the rockfish, you’ll dust the fish with flour. All-purpose gluten-free flour, such as Cup 4 Cup, will work perfectly.

Can I Skip the Flour?

Yes, you can.

The sear on the fish will be slightly less golden.

How to Make Pan-Seared Rockfish

Start by patting the fish dry and lightly dusting it with flour. Season the fish with salt and set aside.

Next, heat butter and olive oil in a heavy pan. I like to use this Lodge 12″ carbon steel skillet.

Place the fish into the pan, and avoid trying to move the fish. Don’t touch it yet.

After about three minutes, use a metal spatula to test the fish. Ideally, use a fish spatula.

I use this Wusthof fish spatula, but have also heard good things about this OXO fish spatula.

Try to slide the spatula under the fish.

If the rockfish releases easily from the pan, flip it. If it doesn’t, try again in a few seconds.

It will release when the bottom of the fish is done cooking.

After you flip the fish, top each fillet with a little more butter.

Cook the rockfish for another couple minutes, and then remove it from the pan.

How to Make the Pan-Sauce

To make the sauce, add lemon juice and capers to the hot pan.

Use a wooden spoon to stir, scraping up any bits of fish stuck to the pan. Stir in some fresh herbs, and it’s ready!

Top the pan-seared rockfish with the lemon caper pan-sauce and a few more fresh herbs.

I like to serve this rockfish along with French mashed potatoes and a haricot vert salad.