It’s that time of year again; temperatures are creeping up, sweaters are being traded for tank tops, and people are taking off on vacation. But how do you successfully conceal carry through all of this?

You may be surprised to learn that concealed carry in the summer is just as easy as it is in colder months. The trick is to piece together the right wardrobe, wear the right holster, and do your research before taking any trips.

While you will probably have to make some adjustments and exceptions while learning how to conceal carry in the summer, it’s not as difficult as it sounds. The first thing to do is make sure you have the proper equipment.

What are the Best Summer Concealed Carry Holsters?

We don’t have to tell you that different holsters work better in different situations. But what is the best holster for summertime concealed carry?

The first thing you want to look at when it comes to CCW in the summer is your carry position. Inside the waistband holsters are generally considered the best way to conceal carry in summer. These holsters can be concealed under even a simple T-shirt, making them much easier to dress for in warmer seasons.

The next thing to consider is holster material. Hands down, the best holster material for summertime is Kydex. While leather is always a comfortable option, it does tend to get a bit sticky when it comes in contact with water, humidity, or sweat.

The Vedder Holsters LightTuck™ Kydex IWB holster is an excellent choice of summer concealed carry holsters. While it’s our most popular holster year-round, its slim design and built-in sweat shield make it easy to hide under lighter clothing and protect your weapon from moisture on your body.

If you just can’t bear to give up your comfortable hybrid holster during the summer months, an easy trick to avoid a sticky situation is to wear an undershirt. Yes, it’s an added layer of clothing, but having that thin layer of fabric between your holster and your skin provides a sweat barrier that allows you to carry a hybrid holster, or any holster for that matter, more comfortably.

Guns: Concealed Carry Options for Summer

In the winter, when thick layers of clothing are the norm, it’s easy to carry a gun of any size. In the summer, when these extra layers are shed for lighter, smaller articles of clothing, the smaller the gun the easier it will be to conceal.

Trading your full-sized weapon for a compact one will make concealed carrying in the summer a much easier task. If you’re looking for ideas, check out our lists of the best Glocks, Rugers, and Berettas for concealed carry.

That being said, you can successfully conceal most pistols in the summer, even larger ones, with the right holster, belt, and clothing combination. So let’s talk about how to dress for concealed carry in summer.

Concealed Carry Clothing for Summer

If you’re like most people, the minute those temperatures start to creep up, you’re trading your thick jackets and jeans for lightweight tank tops and shorts.

Not only does this make it harder to hide your muffin top, but it also makes concealing your carry pistol more difficult. But don’t worry, we have some tips and tricks for keeping things hidden under summer clothing (two birds, one stone, if you know what we mean!).

Luckily, it’s not as daunting as it seems. Concealed carry in the summer is just as easy as it is in the winter, you just have to get a bit more creative.

If you can pull them off, cargo shorts are your best friend. They are usually loose and riddled with pockets, making them an excellent choice for both waistband and pocket carry.

A concealable IWB holster, like the Vedder LightTuck™, is also surprisingly easy to conceal under a simple cotton T-shirt or tank top. If you prefer OWB carry, or your T-shirt just isn’t cutting it, a light, loose button-up shirt does wonders to conceal even larger pistols. Look for things like fishing shirts and Hawaiian shirts to wear either over a T-shirt or on their own.

When it comes to women’s concealed carry clothing for summer, skirts with belt loops are a great option. You can also easily conceal your gun under a loose-fitting shirt or wear a tighter shirt with a lightweight wrap or shawl-type garment to prevent printing. Any sort of shirt with an embellishment, like a knot, front tie, or another distracting style, also work well.

One of the best parts of summer fashion is that patterns and bright, distracting colors are everywhere (yet another reason Hawaiian shirts are great for CCW!). These patterns and bold colors work well to hide printing, no matter what shirt you wear.

Preventing Chaffing

Look, it’s nothing to be embarrassed about. Lots of people experience chaffing from their holster and firearm during the summer, and it’s one of the main reasons people decide to leave their weapon at home during warmer months.

If chafing has got you down, don’t worry. There are a few things you can do to help mitigate this uncomfortable situation. First, consider wearing an undershirt tucked into your pants to prevent contact between your body and carry system. If you live in a really hot and humid environment (ahem, Florida) and don’t want to wear an added layer, you can always try anti-chafing powders or rollers, which are quite effective.

Invest in a Good Gun Belt

Few things reduce printing and make CCW more comfortable, like a quality gun belt. Whether you like tactical belts or stylish leather ones, a good gun belt is an easy way to make summer concealed carry a success. Unlike regular belts, EDC belts are designed to be thicker, stiffer, and more durable, preventing belt sag and reducing printing.

Use a Holster Claw

A holster claw is always a good idea and is especially useful in the summer. Holster claws are designed to reduce printing by pressing against your gun belt to draw the grip of your pistol closer to your body. You can order any Vedder LightTuck™ with an optional Holster Claw or buy one separately to add to an existing holster. It really does make a difference!

Carry Off Body

Off body carry is a bit of a controversial topic in the gun community, but sometimes it’s a good option if you’re struggling to conceal your weapon under summer clothing. If you are going to use this means of carry, it’s essential that you pair it with a proper holster. A pocket holster often works well for slipping into a purse or backpack.

Read more about the pros and cons of off body carry here.

Concealed Carrying While on Vacation

Ah, summer. The kids are out of school, the weather is warm, and the days are longer. It’s the ideal time to take that much-needed vacation. But how does concealed carry fit into your travel plans?

There are plenty of reasons why you might want to have your gun while on a trip. You’ll likely be around large groups of people and wandering into unfamiliar places, all of which warrant having a self-defense plan. But, with new places comes new rules, so how do you conceal carry while on vacation?

Concealed Carry While Driving

If you’re taking a road trip this summer, you’re probably wondering if you can have your gun in your vehicle with you. So long as you have a valid concealed carry permit, you can safely have a firearm in your car in most circumstances, though different rules may apply.

If you will be traveling through multiple states, it’s imperative to read up on their individual laws. Every state has different regulations when it comes to firearms, so you’ll want to make sure you’re complying with the laws where you’re going, even if you’re just passing through. You’ll also need to verify that the states you’re going to have a reciprocity agreement with the state where your carry permit is from so you don’t run into any issues.

You should also note that if you are pulled over, some states require you to disclose that you have a gun in the vehicle to the officer. Once again, read up on the laws in the states where you will be traveling before your trip so you can be prepared.

If you can bring your pistol, you’ll want to figure out how to carry comfortably while driving. You may want to consider a carry position that won’t be uncomfortable for long periods of sitting. Appendix and 4 o’clock carry are generally not recommended for driving as they tend to dig into your back or thigh after a while. Carrying strong side or cross draw works well in a vehicle as the gun sits out of the way on your hip.

You can always have your firearm off-body somewhere in your car, but if you choose to carry that way, be prepared to take it with you anytime you get out of the vehicle. You should also keep your vehicle locked while you’re fueling up so there’s no chance of someone walking away with your pistol.

Check out our article “Can You Concealed Carry While Driving?” for more tips.

Concealed Carry While Flying

We hope we don’t have to tell you that you can’t wear your gun on a plane (if you don’t know, TSA will be sure to inform you with a trip to airport jail). But you may not know that you can have a gun in your checked baggage, so long as you comply with certain rules.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has a number of regulations that must be followed to check a firearm, including securing your unloaded gun in a hard-sided, locked container and checking in with airport security. Be sure to review all the rules before attempting to check a gun in your luggage.

As long as you follow the rules to the letter, you shouldn’t have any issues checking your firearm. You should be prepared to get to the airport a little early as the process does take additional time.

It’s also important to consider the city and state you will be flying into before bringing your gun. Like when taking a road trip, make sure to read up on the state’s individual laws and verify that your concealed carry permit is recognized there.

To learn more about concealed carrying while traveling by plane, check out our article here.

Other Factors to Consider

Vacation Activities: Before you decide to travel with a gun, think about the activities you’ll be doing on your trip and where you will be staying.

If you’re planning a trip out here to Central Florida where you will be visiting one of our many theme parks, you won’t be able to take your weapon with you into the park and, therefore, may not want to bring it at all. On the other hand, if you’re taking a road trip to visit family, go camping, or visit some gun-friendly attractions, bringing your firearm should work out just fine.

Wherever you’re going, just be sure to check out local and state laws and think about the activities you will be participating in once you’re there. Many businesses and parks reserve the right to prohibit weapons in their establishment, so make sure you know the rules before you go.

Hotels: Another thing to consider when deciding whether or not to bring your gun on vacation is where you’re staying. If you’re staying with friends or family that you trust and are okay with you bringing your weapon into the house, then, by all means, bring your sidearm. It may be a different story if you’re staying in a hotel or rental home.

First, you must ensure the place where you will be staying doesn’t have any policies against firearms. Second, think about whether you will be able to take your gun with you when you leave your room. Whether or not you leave the “do not disturb” sign on your door, hotel staff have a key to your room and may access it at any time.

One way to help mitigate any potential issues is to bring a small travel gun safe to lock your weapon in while you leave. You can find lightweight, inexpensive options online.

Vehicle Rentals: If you’re planning to rent a car during your vacation, don’t just assume that you can have a gun in the vehicle. While many rental car agencies don’t have a specific policy against weapons in their cars, some do, so make sure you do your research beforehand.

Summary

With the right gun, holster, and clothing combo, concealed carry during warmer months doesn’t have to be difficult. When you’re learning how to conceal carry in the summer, consider the types of activities you will be participating in, the kinds of places you may visit, and the wardrobe you currently have.

If you’re looking for belts or holsters that are custom-made for your weapon of choice, we recommend visiting our Holsters by Gun Model page. For all of our belt and holster options and for more information to help you choose the carry system that works best for you, visit our Vedder Holsters website.

Looking for items beyond holsters and belts, check out our Resources Page for popular product links like lights, lasers, first aid, maintenance, and more.

*This page contains affiliate links. When you purchase a product included on this list, we receive a commission at no extra cost to you.

No where to be seen…

Right when it comes time to hunt, all those deer you have been seeing the past few weeks…

Gone!

All of a sudden, they have disappeared.

Well, don’t worry. There are a number of explanations for why your deer have vanished.

Checkout the list below, hopefully it can help you locate those elusive deer.

7 Reasons Why Your Deer Might Have Disappeared

1. Heavy Hunting Pressure

Here’s the deal, if you are hunting an area that has seen a lot of traffic from other hunters, don’t be surprised if the deer are scarce.

Deer have evolved for thousands of years to avoid prey and survive. A lot of human hunters in the area is very likely to drive the deer elsewhere.

This happens every year in the week after opening day when truck loads of hunters wear out the dirt roads through popular public land.

You basically have 2 options:

1. Hunt somewhere else (private land?).
2. Hike your way in away from the truck loads of road hunters.

2. Weather Change

If you have recently experienced a major weather change, specifically rain, temperature, or pressure, then those deer that have been behaving one way for weeks may decide to change up their behavior.

Your best bet in this scenario is to follow their lead and change up your behavior as well.

A lot of times when this happens you will see deer that have been out in the open head for cover. So naturally what you want to do is start hunting in thick cover. For more tips, checkout our article on how to hunt deer in thick woods and brush.

3. Lack of Food Source

Just like us humans, deer prefer some types of feed over others. When their favorite food source starts running scarce, you can expect them to switch it up and looking for a different area to feed.

One way you can prevent this in the future is to plant your own feed plot.

4. Wild Fires

Anyone who lives out on the west coast knows, these last few years have seen a major uptick in wild fires. As a result, insane amounts of smoke and ash have been dumped into the air. We personally have hunted areas adjacent to wild fires and the smokes seems to cause a deer to change behavior.

Probably due to thousands of years of evolution, deer have learned to be alerted by the smell of smoke and may migrate as a result. Be aware if you are planning to hunt a smoky area near a fire, the deer may be more scarce than usual.

5. Predators

Deer are programmed to survive. It is what they spend every day of their life trying to do. They are highly attuned to predators in the area and if they sense they are in danger, they will not hesitate to migrate elsewhere.

Baby deer even use their spots for concealment to hide from predators.

The two main predators that are likely to cause this are bears and mountain lions.

Mountain lions are notorious for causing deer to disappear. Let’s just hope that the deer decided to leave the area and didn’t have a run in with a cat.

6. Nocturnal Shift

Sometimes a shift in temperature can cause deer to alter their sleep routine. If you are doing most of your hunting at night, try switching it up and hunting early morning or vice versa.

7. Late Season

If you are hunting late in the season and don’t seem to be seeing as many deer as you did earlier in the season, it is possible other hunters may have beaten you to the punch. This may only apply if you are hunting public land but it is still a possibility and something you should consider.

Summary

Nothing is more frustrating than when you are anticipating some good hunting and don’t end up seeing anything. We hope the list above can help you pinpoint why your deer seem to have disappeared. With any luck, you will be back on their trail in no time. For those of you looking for more help, checkout our article on deer hunting tips.

The SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake is a game-changer! Although there are some folks who are not much into muzzle brakes for personal reasons, they are still not a bad idea.

I’ve used quite a few SilencerCo ASR muzzle devices, and I can say for a fact that they are an awesome choice. To start with, they are solid and also great for reducing recoil and muzzle rise. They are built from high-quality materials that can withstand the heat and pressure of regular use. In addition, this muzzle brake is pretty easy it is to install. So if you are in doubt, this is the muzzle brake for you. To find out about other brakes and firearms, read up more on our website.

Table of Contents

Construction

I’m not sure exactly what kind of steel this muzzle brake is made of. But it’s strong.

We actually got an ASR Flash Hider hot enough to melt it. A customer blasted like 20 mags of full auto through a SilencerCo suppressor.

This one got way too hot. It still works, though.

The muzzle device got hot enough that the metal got soft and blistered. We straightened it out and let it cool down. And the muzzle device still works on that full-auto rifle today. It didn’t get brittle. And even the black nitride finish held up to some extent.

That makes me pretty certain that the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake will hold up through all sorts of hard use, since most of us don’t have full-auto rifles.

Also, the machining on this muzzle brake is super clean. All the corners are beveled slightly to remove any harsh edges. Even the internal edges of the ports are beveled slightly.

Lastly, the threads on the ASR mount are incredibly clean. But I’ll talk about the ASR mount later on.

But, even without mentioning the ASR mount, the construction and attention to detail on this muzzle brake is obviously top notch.

Fit and Finish

There’s some good and some bad here.

First, the black nitride finish is incredible. As I mentioned earlier, the black nitride finish on the ASR Flash Hider that we melted held up somewhat. It wasn’t perfect. But I wouldn’t expect any finish to hold up through being melted without any damage.

But it’s evidence that the finish is incredibly strong.

And the finish resists carbon fouling pretty well. It seems that this muzzle brake collects less carbon than many other muzzle devices I’ve used.

It takes quite a bit of suppressed shooting—and even more unsuppressed shooting—to get any significant carbon buildup on the muzzle device. So the nitride finish certainly seems to do its job.

The next aspect of the fit and finish that I noticed is the threading for mounting the muzzle brake to your barrel. The threading is incredibly smooth and well finished. This muzzle device threaded on super smoothly and easily.

My only complaint about the fit is the shims.

I don’t know if shims are a requirement for muzzle brakes. But I prefer crush washers. I find it much easier to time a muzzle device with a crush washer. And I’ve never had a muzzle device that’s mounted with a crush washer come loose.

If it’s necessary to use shims for a muzzle brake, so be it. You can use a crush washer for a compensator, though. And that must be timed. So why not use crush washers for muzzle brakes?

But I digress. My problem with this muzzle brake is that I’ve occasionally found it difficult to time the muzzle brake with the included shims. Either the shims were too thick or too thin. And I ended up having to pretty much overtorque the muzzle brake to get it properly timed.

It’s not a huge deal. I just used a bigger wrench. And this hasn’t been an issue with every ASR muzzle brake I’ve installed. It might just be a slight mismatch between the threading on the brake and the threading on certain barrels.

But you don’t have these sorts of issues with a crush washer. That’s all I’m saying.

Either way, my one complaint about the fit is pretty minor. Timing muzzle devices with shims is always kind of a pain. So I might have this complaint about any other muzzle brake.

Putting my minor gripe aside, the fit and finish on this muzzle brake is outstanding. It installed (mostly) flawlessly. And it requires very little cleaning and maintenance. That’s about as much as you can ask for from a muzzle brake.

It might be tough to see. But that shim is SMASHED.

Suppressor Mount

Obviously, the primary feature of this muzzle brake is the ASR suppressor mount.

Here’s my one sentence opinion of the ASR mount: it’s one of the best—if not the best—suppressor mounting system on the market right now.

Just look at those clean, sharp threads.

It’s super simple and easy to use. It’s absolutely secure. And it’s nearly impossible to get a false positive with the locking mechanism.

Also, referring again to the ASR Flash Hider we melted, we melted an ASR muzzle device. And the ASR mount still works! We didn’t even have an issue removing the suppressor after getting it hot enough to melt the muzzle device.

I know that this is a sample size of one.

But we use a lot of SilencerCo suppressors on rental guns at the range. And the operation is almost always flawless, despite how badly we beat them up and how often we burn them down on full-auto guns.

They very rarely even get carbon locked. That’s not to say that it can’t happen. But it takes a lot of abusive shooting to lock up the ASR mount.

So, in short, I’m convinced that the ASR suppressor mount is an amazing mounting system.

Obviously, you can only use SilencerCo suppressors with the ASR system (there may be other manufacturers that produce ASR compatible suppressors. But I’m not aware of them).

However, SilencerCo makes awesome suppressors. Being restricted to using SilencerCo suppressors isn’t really a limitation. No matter what you want to do with your suppressor, SilencerCo makes one that will fit the bill.

All in all, the ASR mount gets two thumbs up from me.

Muzzle Brake Performance

My observations here are pretty straightforward.

In terms of recoil reduction, this is a good muzzle brake. However, there are dedicated muzzle brakes that perform better.

I will say this, though: the only muzzle brakes that offer better recoil reduction are dedicated muzzle brakes. The other muzzle brakes with suppressor mounts feel about the same, or even slightly worse.

For a muzzle brake with a suppressor mount, this muzzle brake is outstanding. But, if your primary concern is recoil reduction—and you don’t need the suppressor mount—you’d be better served with a dedicated muzzle brake.

Allow me to make this recommendation, though:

Use this muzzle brake, even if you don’t have a suppressor right now and you just want recoil reduction.

Why?

This muzzle brake offers plenty of recoil reduction for typical AR-15 rounds. It might not be the very best. But it’s good. You’ll get a very controllable rifle. And, it saves you a bit of money if you decide to get a suppressor down the road.

Additionally, using a muzzle brake with a suppressor mount is especially valuable if you need to pin and weld your muzzle device.

It’s good enough that I pretty much use some variation of the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake on all my rifles, at this point. That way I can slap one of my SilencerCo suppressors on any rifle I have. And I have very little need—if any need—to swap muzzle devices in the future.

That’s my two cents on why using an ASR muzzle brake is a great idea.

But, in fairness, here’s a counterpoint:

You may want to forego this muzzle brake if the muzzle blast is a significant concern for you. The muzzle blast from this muzzle brake is relatively mild. But it’s still a muzzle brake.

If that’s your situation, allow me to recommend the SilencerCo ASR Flash Hider. That way you can still get a suppressor down the road, if you change your mind.

That’s all I have to say about that.

Braking Things Down

As you may have guessed, I think the ASR muzzle brake is an amazing muzzle device.

It performs well as a dedicated muzzle brake. And you can pop a suppressor on it, if you need to muzzle the muzzle blast.

The only thing to watch out for is timing it with the shims. You may need a pretty sturdy upper receiver vice block to get this muzzle brake properly timed. But that may just have been a product of the barrel I mounted this SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake on.

In the end, I think that you’d be hard pressed to find a more versatile muzzle brake that offered better recoil reduction than the ASR muzzle brake. It could easily be the only muzzle device you need.

Nymphing, often known as fly fishing, is unquestionably one of the most popular types of fly fishing out there.

Nymphing is the method of fishing using artificial flies that resemble young aquatic insects, larval, or other sub-aquatic life forms such as worms and crustaceans that trout find attractive. In other words, fly fishing is the process of catching a large quantity of fish in almost any water body at any time of the year.

Before the insects become adults, mayflies, caddisflies, and stoneflies spend their juvenile years underwater as nymphs. In contrast, other species of insects swim through the water, eventually being carried downstream by the river.

Why should you be concerned about these peculiar aquatic insects and their unusual life cycle? Because nymphs are a food source for trout. And if you’d like to catch trout regularly? Knowing how to fish nymph-imitated flies is critical.

A point to remember: Nymphing is also classified as fly fishing.

To begin, let’s examine why you should fish in the first place.

Why Nymphing is the Most Effective Method of Fly Fishing

While dry flies get the bulk of attention and praise from fly fishers, the reality is that trout spend most of their time eating nymphs underwater.

Nymphs are found in lakes and rivers at all times of the year and all hours of the day. And trout spend the majority of their time eating them.

That is why nymph fishing is so effective. As trout are constantly feeding on nymphs, you do not need to time your approach or wait for the perfect hatch to start catching fish. Instead, tie one or more artificial nymph flies in color and size that match the real insects present in the water and start fishing.

When and Where to Fish Nymphs?

The beautiful part is that you can find nymph almost in any water, whether it’s a swiftly-moving freestone stream, a sparkling spring creek, or maybe even a Stillwater lake or pond. This area may be home to an aquatic insect. The nymph usually remains submerged underwater whether a hatch occurs or not.

Thus, regardless of the stream or lake, wherever you are fishing, nymph flies may be used to catch fish. The first step toward success is learning about the live nymphs that trout consume to match the artificial one to the natural insect. The second critical skill is studying the water to get your bait to the correct location with the appropriate presentation to encourage the trout to bite.

We’ll discuss how to do all of this later, but the point is to locate the lake or stream where you can find trout and use nymphs to catch them. If only catching fish and taking it back home does not quench the thirst of your adventure, provides fishing-related apparel and merchandise that will fascinate every fish enthusiast.

What Equipment Do You Need?

Often in fishing, pursuing a new species or mastering a new casting method necessitates a costly visit to the fly shop to get all new equipment. Fortunately, this is not the case with nymph fishing.

Nymphing rods may get very complex. Suppose you’re serious about getting into this type of fishing, then you should consider purchasing the drift fly rods, which in their basic form is 3wt 9ft fly rod.

The revolutionary feature of this rod is the ability to add length without untying your fly line. The rod parts extend the length of the rod from 9 feet to more than 12 feet.

This method does not require a high-performance rod. Except for neatly storing lines, your fly reel will see little activity during nymphing until you hook onto a big one. The majority of fish may be captured by handed stripping.

Here is a short review of gears needed for fly fishing:

Rod: 9-foot 4,5, or 6-weight rod with a medium-to-fast action

Reel: A standard single action fly reel that will match the weight of the rod.

Line: Floating line that is weight forward

Leader: 9-foot tapered nylon leader

Tippet: 3X, 4X, 5X, and 6X spools

Pretty straightforward, isn’t it? Of course, you’ll still need some flies and a few other pieces of nymphing-specific gear, but as long as you have that fundamental rod and reel setup, you’re ready.

Modern nymphing rods, lines, and reels are incredibly well-designed for their intended use. However, if it is your first venture into fly fishing, it will be wise, to begin with, a fly rod combination capable of more than just nymphing.

With the ever-popular 9-foot 5-weight, it’s difficult to go wrong. It is enough to handle the big fish you’re likely to encounter when nymphing, and it’ll throw both conventional and indicator nymph setups effortlessly.

Unless you’re chuck-and-ducking, the only fly line you’ll need to nymph streams and rivers is a weight-forward floating line suited to your rod. If you want to try still water nymphing, a full sinking or perhaps an intermediate line will be beneficial. However, you may still catch trout in lakes with a long leader on a floating line.

Along with a well-stocked nymph box, you’ll need the following essential nymphing gear to get started: spools of tippet sizes 3X-7X, butt section or high-vis sighter material, split shot, strike indicators, nippers, and hemostats.

Techniques

While dry flies or streamers have their role, it’s challenging to match nymphs’ flexibility and year-round effectiveness. If you have learned to adjust your nymphing rigs and techniques to the changing circumstances of the day, you’ll be able to catch fish in every stream, pond, river, creek, or lake you visit at any time of year.

Now it’s time to tie everything together by discussing the fundamental nymphing components that apply to almost all rigging techniques. When choosing how to nymph on a new river, consider the following factors:

Depth Control

Because trout like to eat nymphs at the bottom of the stream, it is critical to get your bait under deep water. By incorporating the different techniques and rig adjustments discussed earlier, you may have control over the depth to which your flies sink.

When fishing in shallow or slow-moving water, conventional lightweight and indicator-less nymph setups are often sufficient to sink the fly to the bottom, as long as adequate runway is provided. As depths near 3-5 feet while current rises, rigs with the additional weight, like a Czech nymph rig or the two-fly strike indicator, start to rise.

When fishing in water more than 6 feet deep, more weight is required to bring your nymphs to the bottom. Tungsten bead-head nymphs tied to a Euro-style nymphing line with a high-vis sighter may be the key to luring fish from deep water.

Suppose circumstances deteriorate to a severe level of high swamp water with large fish in deep pools. You may need to substitute slinky weights for the split shot and catch fish chuck-and-duck style in that case.

Drift Control and Presentation

While it is essential to get your nymphs at the correct depth to attract the fish, if they are not drifting naturally, they will not lure very well (or at all). And, since natural drift is achieved by removing all drag from the nymphs, drift management is primarily a matter of line control.

Line control varies significantly across nymphing techniques. For more traditional fly casting methods, like traditional or indicator nymphing, slack must be applied continuously to ensure a drag-free drift, either via casting movements like the “tuck cast” or through frequent line mends. However, when using “tight-line” European nymphing methods, less attention is put on creating a “drag-free” drift, preferring to remain close to the flies to improve strike detection sensitivity.

Strike Detection

If your depth and drift control are reasonable, you have a better chance of getting a bite. However, unless you’re prepared and aware of what to look for, the fish will bite the hook without you knowing it.

When you’re just starting, you will find that fishing has considerable advantages using a highly visible and buoyant strike indicator. Not only will you be able to see if a fish eats your bait, but you will also know when your rig is dragging. Additionally, strike indications enable the suspension of a large amount of weight to achieve the desired depth.

To begin, fishing nymphs without a floating strike indicator requires you to rely on your senses to identify bites. By guiding your lures downstream, you can feel each bump of your rig against the bottom and the grip of a trout grabbing your fly. Additionally, when more stealth is required, whether in clear spring streams or shallow lakes, fishing with a bare leader significantly minimizes the chance of scaring away your prey.

Conclusion

With that basic setup in place, along with the methods and ideas, you’ll be well on your way to mastering nymph fishing! When you first begin, keep things simple and make an effort to appreciate every part of the nymphing experience. Catching fish is a pleasure!

About the Author

Matthew Bernhardt, a third-generation Coloradan, grew up at the forefront of the state’s fly-fishing revolution, enjoying time on the water, side by side with experienced guides and lifelong anglers.By combining his passion for fly-fishing with input from other experienced fly-fishers and guides and his fine arts degree from Colorado State University, Matthew spent five years carefully developing the Drifthook Fly Fishing System, built to help every angler catch more trout.When he’s not spending time with his wonderful family, you’ll find him out on the water catching MONSTER trout, and he anxiously looks forward to the day when his kids are old enough to join him there.

In the world of handguns, few names command as much respect and admiration as Glock. Renowned for their reliability, durability, and adaptability, Glock pistols have earned their place in the holsters of law enforcement, military personnel, and responsible gun owners worldwide.

Our team of special operations veterans and pro shooters have been shooting Glock models for years, on active duty, in competition, and as civilian concealed carriers. Together, they have over 200 years of experience shooting Glocks and can provide valuable insight to anyone looking to buy a Glock pistol.

In this extensive guide, we’ll delve deep into the realm of Glock pistols, exploring their history, shared features, model variations, and, most importantly, the best Glocks available today.

Background

Before we dive into the specifics of Glock pistols, let’s briefly touch on their origin. Our journey begins with the visionary engineer Gaston Glock, an Austrian entrepreneur with a polymer and synthetic materials background.

In the early 1980s, Glock responded to a request from the Austrian military to develop a new handgun, marking the inception of the Glock pistol.

Gaston Glock’s innovative design incorporated a polymer frame, a striker-fired mechanism, and a straightforward yet reliable operation. These groundbreaking elements catapulted Glock to the forefront of the firearms industry, forever changing the landscape of handguns.

Best Glock Pistols

Choosing the Right Glock for You

Purpose

First, determine the primary purpose for which you intend to use the firearm.

If it’s concealed carry, opt for a compact or subcompact model like the Glock 19, 43X, or 26, which balance concealability with firepower.

For home defense, consider a full-size or compact Glock, such as the Glock 17 or Glock 19, offering a blend of size, capacity, and accuracy.

In professional or duty settings, prioritize reliability and durability, making the full-size Glock 17 or Glock 22 popular.

Competitive shooters will want pistols optimized for accuracy and performance, with the Glock 34, designed specifically for competitions, being an excellent option with its extended barrel and improved trigger.

Frame Type

Frame type is another crucial consideration. Glock offers three main frame types: full-size, compact, and subcompact, though there are also some other variants on these.

Full-size frames provide a comfortable grip, making them ideal for duty use and competition, while compact frames, like the Glock 19, offer versatility, suitable for concealed carry and general use.

Subcompact frames, such as the Glock 43X and Glock 26, prioritize deep concealment and portability.

Full-size and compact frames are great duty sized handguns, while compact and subcompact frames are both good for shooters looking for a carry gun.

Caliber

Your choice of pistol cartridge matters as well. 9mm is the most popular for its manageable recoil, higher capacity, and affordability, suitable for various purposes.

.45 ACP delivers substantial stopping power but with more recoil, favored by those prioritizing larger caliber rounds. .40 S&W provides a compromise between 9mm and .45 Auto in terms of power and capacity, often chosen for law enforcement.

Capacity

Next, consider magazine capacity. Standard capacity magazines range from 10 to 17 rounds, striking a balance between capacity and concealability.

However, extended magazines, available as aftermarket accessories, can increase capacity, offering extra rounds, sometimes even without altering the pistol’s overall size.

Carefully assessing these factors ensures you’ll choose the right Glock pistol that aligns perfectly with your specific needs and preferences.

MOS or Standard Models

“MOS” in Glock terminology stands for “Modular Optic System.” Glock MOS models are equipped with features that allow for the easy attachment of optical sights, such as red dot sights or reflex sights, directly onto the pistol’s slide.

The Glock MOS system typically consists of a milled slot or plate on the slide that accommodates various mounting plates or adapters. Shooters can then attach compatible optical sights to these mounting plates, allowing them to co-witness with the pistol’s standard sights or provide an unobstructed view through the optic.

Gen 4 vs. Gen 5

Glock has introduced several generations of pistols, with Gen 4 and Gen 5 being the most recent.

Perhaps the most noticeable of these changes is removing the finger grooves previously found on Glock grips to accommodate shooters of all hand sizes better. Glock also improved the grip texture to help ensure a firm grip and front slide serrations to make racking the slide easier.

While the overall dimensions between the Gen 4 and Gen 5 remain relatively similar, eagle-eyed enthusiasts will spot a slight increase in width for the Gen 5 model. This minor alteration, though subtle, might pose compatibility challenges with specific Gen 4 accessories, particularly holsters.

Glock also widened the mag well, facilitating faster reloads, though it’s essential to remember that proper training remains crucial for mastering the art of swift magazine changes.

For southpaw shooters, Glock took another step in the right direction by adding an ambidextrous slide stop on the Gen 5. This thoughtful addition makes it much easier for left-handed shooters to engage the slide without the need to adjust their grip.

Finally, Gen 5 Glocks boast both a barrel upgrade and trigger upgrade, promising improved accuracy and a more refined shooting experience.

However, you can’t go wrong with Gen 4, either. Both generations are well-regarded and have their devoted followers, so if you’re not too worried about these differences, you may be able to save a bit of money by going with a Gen 4 model.

FAQs

Do Glocks have a safety?

While Glocks don’t have a manual safety or grip safety, Glocks do feature a unique safety system called their “Safe Action” system. This three part safety system includes a trigger safety, firing pin safety, and drop safety to ensure that Glocks cannot be fired unless the trigger is directly and completely pressed.

What are the best Glock sights?

Glock factory sights are known for being, well, not the greatest. For that reason, many Glock owners opt to upgrade the stock Glock sights for aftermarket sights. Choosing the best Glock sights largely depends on your personal preferences and use cases.

Some popular options include tritium night sights for low-light shooting and red dot sights for enhanced target acquisition.

What are the best Glock triggers?

The best Glock trigger is a matter of personal preference, as different shooters have varying preferences for trigger weight and feel. Some aftermarket options include the Apex Tactical trigger and the ZEV Technologies trigger, which allow customization to suit your liking.

Why are Glocks so popular?

Glocks have achieved popularity due to their reputation for reliability, simplicity, and versatility. These reliable pistols are known for functioning flawlessly in various conditions and requiring minimal maintenance, making them a dependable choice for a wide range of users.

The Bottom Line

That brings us to a close on the best Glocks. Glock pistols have rightfully earned their place as some of the most trusted and widely used firearms in the world.

Whether you’re a seasoned shooter or a novice exploring the world of handguns, there’s likely a Glock model that aligns with your needs and preferences, and with this guide to the best Glock pistols, you should have all the information that you need to choose the perfect Glock for you.

Remember, responsible firearm ownership entails not only choosing the right firearm but also obtaining proper training and adhering to safety practices. Embrace the responsibility that comes with gun ownership, and enjoy shooting responsibly.

By considering your purpose, frame type, caliber preference, and capacity requirements, you can confidently select the ideal Glock pistol for your specific needs. As you embark on your journey with Glock, prioritize safety, continuous training, and responsible firearm usage. Happy shooting!

Why Hunt Snow Geese without Decoys?

There are many good reasons to hunt snow geese without decoys, and there are several situations where you might have to. For example, if they are moving around in one big group, if you don’t have access to the field they are feeding in, or if you have limited hunting time, it may make more sense to set up a quick pass shoot rather than to decoy the birds.

There may be other practical reasons: if snow geese are destroying wheat crops, which could lead to ecological imbalance, or if you’re attempting to harvest as many snow geese as possible because their population is too high. Whether the reasons are practical or necessary, there are several effective ways to harvest snow geese, such as pass shooting, using a cow board, or sneaking. These eight essential snow geese hunting tips can save you money by helping you hunt without decoys.

8 Tips for Hunting Snow Geese Without Decoys

Find Exact Location

The most important variable in hunting snow geese is location. Considerable effort is required to scout them and understand their migratory patterns to locate their feeding, watering, and roosting areas, as they can migrate a remarkable distance within a short period of time.

Therefore, time is of the essence, and scouting will help you make the best use of the time you have. The more critical time is, the less time you can attribute to setting up decoys. Time is better spent making sure you know the exact location of the geese than trying to lure them somewhere.

Take Cover

When scouting, you should also be thinking of spots to conceal yourself effectively. Hide among the trees and woodland in the areas geese land to feed so they can’t see you and refrain from moving as much as possible to not startle them.

Fence lines can also give you some cover to hide. You can also try lying down in weeds in a field and using the ground as camouflage. Don’t startle the geese by jumping the gun. You’ll probably have to lay still for a while, so be patient.

Clothing

When it comes to blending in, you’ll want to wear appropriate clothing that matches the natural background. Wear the colors of the area you’ve scouted and find a comfortable position. There are also many professional layout blinds available designed specifically for hunting geese that you can choose from.

Pass Shooting

Now that you’ve done the basics, it’s time to consider various methods of hunting snow geese without decoys. Pass shooting is among the most popular and obvious. It is a relatively inexpensive method that allows the Geese to pass by an area you have already scouted.

After they arrive, target one or two geese in one group and shoot once or twice when they’re in range while the other group is further away. It’s critical that the second group maintains its usual patterns, so be sparing at first. This will help to increase the number of snow geese you can bag.

Use a Cow Board

Instead of decoys, you can use a cow board, which may seem a bit odd at first but is inexpensive and gives the geese the impression that they’re landing in a normal field devoid of humans. You will need to be a quick shot, however, as you’ll need to move it realistically so the geese don’t understand it’s fake, and be ready to shoot when a bird is in range within about 50 yards.

Sneaking

Sneaking takes some practice but is another effective method once you know how to do it. Naturally, sneaking works best during high harvest in the late season where you can hide more easily, and again you should take pains not to move too much by crawling slowly and making as little noise as possible. Target the geese at the edge of the flock closest to you, and shoot when you feel like you are close but not yet noticed.

Jump Hunting

Jump hunting involves traveling around and looking for flocks of snow geese already feeding in fields. If you have the requisite permission to hunt in the area, you can use the element of surprise to sprint out into the field and shoot as many of them as possible before they get away. First, though, you’ll want to get as close to them as possible by using the stealth methods described above.

Capture Their Attention

You can simulate geese calls from your hiding place, either by training your voice to emit sounds like theirs or, probably more easily, by using pre-recorded sounds and an amplification device. In your scouting and study of snow geese patterns, learn a comprehensive range of geese sounds.

For example, they cluck when they are excited, murmur when they are looking to feed, and honk when they are relaxed. So make calls, or use recordings, that correspond to where you need them to be: cluck when they are at a distance, and murmur when they are heading in your direction.

A Successful Snow Geese Hunt Without Decoys

You can use a combination of any of the methods above, or all of them, for a successful snow geese hunt, though some, such as capturing their attention, will take more practice than others.

Some of the tips are inexorable: you will not be able to bag snow geese without doing the necessary scouting and concealing yourself adequately before discharging your weapon.

The Benefits of Snow Geese Hunting without Decoys

Not using decoys when snow geese hunting is straightforward and easy to learn and can also result in good fun. If you want to save money, save time, or have a reason to eliminate snow geese as quickly as possible, you can easily circumvent the need to use decoys. All it takes is a little practice and patience.

You can also check:

Great Benefits of Hunting Activity

Air Rifles for Small Game (Buying Guide)

How to Start Hunting

Tips to Keep Your Feet Warm During Hunting (Read Article)

Yes, you can eat acorns, and all acorns are edible — it’s just that most need special processing. Here’s how to go about it.

If you haven’t read my other acorn posts, Acorns and the Forager’s Dilemma is an introduction to the use of acorns; the Forager’s Dilemma is, in a word, starch. Starch (carbohydrates) is the toughest thing to gather, and is a primary reason why humans settled down 10,000 years ago to grow grain.

Next I wrote about how various world cultures have traditionally used acorns, cultures ranging from Korea to Japan to the Native Americans, Europeans and North Africans.

Let me say loud and clear that you can eat acorns and all acorns are edible, at least all species of acorns are. We’ll get into details in a bit.

Basically there are three ways to eat acorns: Eating them as nuts (they are a lot like chestnuts), making acorn flour, or cooking in acorn oil. I have not yet tried to make acorn oil, but that link leads you to my friend Sam Thayer’s website; he sells it.

Collecting Edible Acorns

First you need to get yourself a supply of acorns. Go find some oak trees; they’re the ones with all the acorns that have fallen down around them. I know this sounds condescending and stupid, but oaks come in so many varieties that in autumn this really is the easiest way. It is a bit of a crapshoot, as it is tougher to determine a variety of oak by its acorn than by its the leaf — you can do it, but it is a little harder.

You can gather acorns anytime from September until early spring. I find gathering as the acorns fall is best. Suellen Ocean, who wrote a very useful book Acorns and Eat ’em,says she likes to collect Tanoak acorns in February and March, after many have begun sprouting.

She says acorns with sprouts between 1 to 2 inches long are still good to eat, but discard any acorn meats that have turned green. Ocean says recently sprouted acorns a) have begun to turn their starch into sugar, and b) are foolproof: “If it is sprouted, it’s a good acorn and I haven’t wasted time gathering wormy ones.”

A word on worms. When I first gathered acorns, little did I know that I had gathered scores already infected with the larva of the oak weevil. Nasty little maggoty things, you can tell they are inside your acorn if there is a little hole in the shell. Look for it, discard that acorn and move on. But know that oak weevil larvae bored those holes from the inside out. Like Alien.

It’s helpful to know what kind of oak you are dealing with because acorns from different oaks have different levels of tannins in them; more on that in a bit. If you don’t know your trees, start looking for little green acorns in May. Pick a leaf and compare it to oak leaves online or in a guidebook. Gather acorns and compare them to online images and guidebooks; different oaks bear acorns with different shapes.

With that in mind, remember that not all oaks are created equal, and the fundamental fact to know if you are going to eat acorns is that you are dealing with a wild food, and as such must contend with tremendous variability, both in species and even among individuals of the same species.

Some oaks bear acorns so low in bitter tannins that they can be eaten raw. Legend says that California Indians fought over these trees, which makes some sense because one mature Valley Oak can drop 2,000 pounds of acorns in a really good year. A ton of sweet acorns may well be worth fighting over.

That said, even “sweet” acorns should be leached to remove what tannins exist in them because several studies show that unleached acorns can make you constipated and can harm your teeth. Of all the species I know of, only the imported European cork oak and the Emory oak of the Sonoran Desert come close to being “sweet.”

Tannins aren’t the only thing that makes different species of acorn different. UC Riverside Professor David Bainbridge wrote in a 1986 academic paper that depending on species, acorns can range in fat content from 1.1 percent to 31.3 percent, protein from 2.3 percent to 8.6 percent, and carbohydrates from 32.7 percent to 89.7 percent. That is a huge range!

What does it mean? It means that in the kitchen you treat acorns from different species very, very differently. A fatty acorn will make a meal, like ground almonds. A carb-rich acorn — like Valley Oak acorns — makes a drier flour, more like chestnut or chickpea flour (acorns lack gluten and so will not rise.)

Differences in Various Oaks

Here’s a general breakdown:

‘Sweetest’ Acorns, meaning lowest in tannin: East Coast white oak, the Emory oak of the Southwest, the pin oak of the South, the valley and blue oaks of California, the burr oak of the Midwest, as well as the cork oak and the well-named bellota oak of Europe. To my California readers, know that there are an awful lot of cork oaks and burr oaks planted in towns and cities here, so keep your eyes peeled.

Largest Acorns: Valley oaks are really big, as are East Coast White oaks. Burr oaks are large, too, as is the California Black oak.

Fattiest Acorns: The Eastern red oak acorns I’ve used have a very high oil content, and I’ve read that the Algonquin used red oak acorns for oil. In the West, the champions are both live oaks, the Coastal and the interior live oak, as well as the tanoak and black oak, which is Quercus kellogii.

Shelling Acorns

I found that shelling the acorns is the most onerous part of dealing with them. They have an elastic shell that resists normal nut crackers. I found whacking them with a hammer to be the best way to open up an acorn. Some people use a knife, and I do this with green acorns, but not fully ripe ones.

Best way to whack ’em is to put the flat end (the side that used to have the cap) on a firm surface and rap the pointy end with a hammer, or, with long, tapered acorns like cork oak or Valley oaks, just whack the side.

Acorns are far easier to shell after they’ve dried. If you choose to dry them, do this in wide, shallow pans so they don’t get moldy. Once dried, I’ve worked with two-year-old acorns and they were fine. They will need an overnight soak before grinding, however.

Red oak acorns have a “test,” a skin that doesn’t want to come off, just like a chestnut. Easiest way to deal with this is to freeze your fresh acorns for a week or two before cracking. This will slip the skin off the nut. The skin is bitter, but it’s not that big a deal if you are making flour.

Shell your acorns into water. The meats oxidize, and you will get a lighter-colored flour if you do this. It’s aesthetic, but it matters to me.

Tannins

All acorns should be leached with water to remove bitter tannins, which will a) make your mouth feel and taste like felt, b) make you a bit nauseous, and possibly c) constipate you for days.

Getting those tannins out is the big barrier to cooking with acorns. But it ain’t no biggie. With my valley oak acorns, after shelling I drop the acorn meats directly into my stockpot that was two-thirds full of water. When I fill the pot about a third of the way up with shelled acorns, if I am in a hurry, I bring the pot of water to a boil. The water turns dark. As soon as it boils, pour the water off into the sink and repeat the process.

It requires about five changes of water to get valley oak acorns to taste like chestnuts. I did this all while watching football, and did not miss a snap. Other oaks will require more or fewer changes of water. Choose the “sweetest” acorns on my list above for the least amount of work.

There is a better method, but it takes days. Grind the raw acorns into flour, then mix a ratio of 1 cup of acorn meal to 3 cups water, or more water if you have large containers. Pour this all into a glass jar with a lid and put it in the fridge. Every day you shake the jar, wait 12 hours or more, then pour off the water — and the tannins.

How long? Anywhere from a week to two weeks, depending on how bitter your acorns are. This is a good way to leach acorns without using fuel for boiling water, and you do not denature a particular starch in the acorns that acts a little like the gluten in flour, i.e., it helps the flour stick to itself. I go into the full process of cold leaching acorns here.

If you plan on baking with the acorn flour, use the cold-water leaching method.

Once your acorns are free of tannins, you need to figure out what to do with them. Regardless, you need to dry them first or they will rot. Acorn grits can be patted dry on a tea towel. If it is hot out, lay the acorns out on cookie sheets and dry in the shade. You could also put them in an oven set on “warm.” You can also put the acorns in a dehydrator set on low heat, which is what I do.

You can also freeze your fresh acorn meal. Store dried flour in jars in the fridge. Why the fridge? What fat there is in acorns will go rancid pretty quick if you left the flour at room temperature.

What you can now do to eat acorns is pretty limitless.

My first success was an acorn flour flatbread in the style of an Italian piadina. I also make an acorn flour honey cake, which is really very tasty — almost like gingerbread cake. The flour also makes an excellent pasta dough when mixed with regular flour.

Other Ways To Eat Acorns

I will also substitute about 1/5 of the flour in my homemade flour tortillas with acorn flour, and I also make mean acorn gnocchi.

Use your imagination!

If you’ve ever wanted to try a lion’s mane mushroom you’d be hard-pressed to find one at the local supermarket. Yet, these unusual mushrooms are tasty and healthy, and there are numerous health benefits from consuming them.

If you’d like to learn how to grow these mushrooms yourself, then keep on reading. We’re covering their characteristics, health benefits, storage, and step-by-step instructions for cultivating lion’s mane mushrooms indoors and on logs.

What is a Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

The lion’s mane mushroom (also known as Hericium Erinaceus) is a white, pom-pom-like fungus that resembles the mane of a lion.

Individual mushrooms can grow to be fairly big, weighing as much as half a kilogramme. The spines, or “teeth,” begin short but become longer with age. The mushroom is spongy and semi-hollow at times.

These unusual-looking mushrooms are found on rotting hardwood trees and logs throughout the northern hemisphere and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America.

Lion’s mane mushrooms are edible as well as medicinal, with a variety of potential health benefits. These potential benefits include protection against dementia, protection against stomach ulcers, reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes symptom management, and many more.

It’s pretty much impossible to buy fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in the UK due to the fact that it’s a relatively unknown species. Your best bet is to find a specialist farmer, or, the easier option, is to grow this species of mushroom yourself.

Is Lion’s Mane Mushroom Easy to Grow?

Lion’s mane is a reasonably simple mushroom to cultivate, but it can be a challenge for novices because the mycelium takes longer to develop than other mushrooms, creating an increased risk of contamination. It can also be challenging for first time growers to determine whether the lion’s mane is fully colonised and ready to produce fruit.

If you’re new to mushroom growing, we suggest you should get some hands-on experience first. The easiest way to practise mushroom cultivation is by growing your own! Oyster mushrooms are a great place to start. Alternatively, you can use a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit if you’re keen to try lion’s mane at home without the hassle of growing your own from scratch!

Growing in bags vs on logs

The two most popular methods of growing lion’s mane mushrooms are in bags or on logs. They both have their positives and negatives, but the answer to the best way to grow lion’s mane mushrooms is dependent on your experience and the harvest time you are hoping for.

If you’re growing lion’s mane on logs, you should expect to harvest your first batch in one to two years following inoculation. You can harvest lion’s mane mushrooms from a single log for up to six years after they begin to grow. It’s important to note growing mushrooms on logs generally requires more effort and resources to set up, but are relatively easy to maintain during incubation.

It takes far less time to grow lion’s mane indoors in a bag or container. The lion’s mane mushroom can be harvested in about 6 to 8 weeks after inoculating your substrate. Growing in bags is debatably the easier option if you are just starting out, but if you already have some growing experience under your belt then consider when you want your mushrooms to be harvestable.

It’s worth noting that bags can be used to grow mushrooms indoors, whereas logs have to be grown outdoors.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors

Below we’ve put together a step-by-step tutorial to help you grow lion’s mane mushrooms in a bag or container.

Buy Now Lion’s Mane Mushroom Grain Spawn From £15.99

Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

It’s essential that you keep your work environment clean and sterile during the inoculation procedure. When you have spent time preparing your mushrooms, the last thing you want to do is introduce competitive bacteria into your substrate that could outcompete your spawn. Before you start, wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol or another cleaning solution.

After you have cleaned your workplace, you need to assemble all the equipment and supplies needed.

There are several ways you can choose to grow Lion’s Mane mushrooms but growers typically opt to begin the process of substrate preparation, inoculation and incubation within a mushroom growing bag. This makes life a lot easier when handling aspects like sterilisation and pasteurisation too.

From there, it is really a preference in growing technique. Some growers prefer to keep their Lion’s Mane growing from the bag, some prefer to use jars, others choose fruiting chambers. The key considerations are ensuring that the substrate has successfully been inoculated and colonised and that the eventual growing environment has sufficient humidity.

Some supplies we recommend

• A Pressure cooker
• Kitchen Scales
• Measuring cups
• Lion’s mane grain spawn

• Mushroom growing bags or buckets
• Hardwood pellets
• Soy Hulls

Step 2. Preparing Your Mushroom Substrate

Preparing your mushroom substrate correctly is a critical step in the cultivation of any mushroom. It is where most new growers experience problems, as this is where bacteria or competing organisms are first introduced. This is especially true in the case of Lion’s mane mushrooms as the fungus takes much longer to develop than other commonly cultivated mushrooms. As a result, there is a often a much greater window of time for contamination to occur.

There are several types of substrate you could opt for when growing Lion’s Mane mushrooms. In this guide, we’ll be focusing on hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP) but you can learn about more types of substrates here.

A good substrate should provide the sustenance your fungi need to thrive and produce delicious mushrooms. It provides all of the nutrients, nitrates and hydration, so it is key you start on the right foot. Supplemented substrates are usually preferred by experienced growers when working with Lion’s Mane.

Whilst some prefer to use bran or oat supplements, one of our favourite and most recommended substrates for growing Lion’s Mane is Master’s Mix.

What is Master’s Mix?

Master’s Mix is a blend between hardwood pellets and soy hulls, which is ideal for Lion’s Mane as it naturally occurs on hardwood trees and the added soy provides an excellent source for the nitrogen and protein for the fungi.

It also provides a structure that is well suited for mycelium growth, allowing for fast colonisation and greater yield sizes.

Whilst sterilization isn’t strictly necessary for hardwood pellets, it is best practice that you do so to maximise your chances of success. Plus, if you do opt for a mixed blend like Master’s mix, you will most certainly need to sterilize your substrate mix.

We have a detailed guide to Master’s Mix in the works, but following the steps below will give you everything you need to know to get started.

Making your Master’s Mix Blend

To produce a simple master’s mix, prepare even amounts of hardwood fuel pellets and soy hulls. The recommended hydration level for a Masters’ Mix is 60% but if you’re using hardwood pellets, you will need to allow for additional water to redhyrate the pellets sufficiently.

Below are the supplies and weights need to produce a 2.3kg substrate:

• 450g hardwood pellets
• 450g soy hulls
• 1.4L clean water
• A growing container (we recommend using a mushroom growing bag)
• A pair of weight scales
• A pressure cooker (Optional)
• Latex gloves (Optional)

The first thing you will need to do is to mix your hardwood pellets and soy hulls together in a sterilised container or bag. Next, you will need to add the clean water to the mix. Allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes (or as long as required) to rehydrate the pellets into a sawdust-like mix. If you’re using a mushroom growing bag, it is easiest to hydrate your pellets and mix the supplies directly in the bag.

Sterlising your Substrate Mix

The next step is to sterilise your substrate mixture. There are several ways to sterilise and pastuerise a substrate, but it is recommend that you use a pressure cooker to do so.

If your mix has now hydrated, simply fold and seal the growing bag and place it into your pressure cooker. It is recommended to leave the mix in the cooker for at least two hours at a pressure of 15PSI.

Once your substrate mix has been in the cooker for 2 or more hours, you will need to carefully remove the growing bag and allow it to completely cool in a sanitary environment.

When the substrate has fully cooled, it is time to begin the inoculation process.

Step 3. Inoculating Your Mushroom Substrate

Before starting the inoculation process, use soap and water to thoroughly clean your hands before handling any of your growing materials. You should also ensure that the working environment has been sanitised prior to unsealing the growing bag.

We also recommend continuing this next step in a controlled decontaminated space, such as a flow hood or a DIY container (such as a sterilised clear box with embedded gloves).

For a 2.3kg substrate, we would recommend using 200 grams of grain spawn mix. We stock grain spawn in sizes from 600g to 3kg, so you will have plenty to work with.

If using grain spawn, carefully break apart the spawn and mix throughout the substrate mix, ensuring even coverage and layering.

Once your lion’s mane spawn has been mixed into the substrate, seal your growing bag or cover your container.

A better way to do this is to open the bag following pressure cooking, rapidly add the spawn, seal it immediately, and then mix the material within the sealed bag. This is ideally done in front of a flow hood and reduces exposure time.

Step 4. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Now that you’ve prepared and inoculated your substrate, it’s time to let the fungi do its thing.

Place your growing bag in a dark space away from direct sunlight and store at room temperature (18-25°C), although consistently at 23°C is ideal.

How long does it take for Lion’s Mane mushrooms to colonise?

It can take between 14-21 days for your Lion’s Mane to colonise the substrate mix but this could take longer depending on a number of factors, such as the amount of spawn used, the substrate hydration level, and external storage conditions and the quality of the spawn.

How to tell if Lion’s Mane is fully colonised

When compared with other commonly cultivated mushrooms, Lion’s Mane mushroom mycelium threads (known as hyphae) are somewhat finer in appearance and can make it harder to determine whether it has fully colonised the substrate.

Ideally, you will see the substrate mix even coated in a white mycelium, but other ways of testing include feeling the mix to test whether it has become firmer to the touch.

Step 5. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

While your Lion’s Mane is perfectly capable of fruiting their mushrooms when ready, it can be helpful to provide a helping hand by creating conditions that encourage a flush to appear.

For Lion’s Mane, this can be achieved by increasing the humidity of the growing environment. Whilst keeping the growing bag in a shady area, try misting the substrate several times a day with water.

You can also place your growing bag into a plastic liner and spray the inside lining to create a contained humid environment. Pro tip: if you’re not able to mist your substrate every day, place wet tissue paper or cloth inside of the outer lining to maintain humidity.

We suggest cutting a small (5 cm) hole on the side of your bag rather than the top. If you cut the top of the bag or open the entire top, the substrate dries out faster and you get a lot of smaller mushrooms instead of a few large groupings.

Only one hole in your bag is required for every 750 grams of substrate. For most bags, one hole is sufficient. However, if you have a really large bag, you may want to cut more holes.

If your bag has any extra room at the top, we recommend folding it down and taping it in place. Mushrooms may attempt to grow from the top if this is not done.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs

Growing lion’s mane on logs is a low-cost approach to ensure a consistent, long-term supply of fresh lion’s mane.

Everything you need to know about growing lion’s mane on logs is included in the step-by-step guide below. For a more in-depth guide on growing on logs, check out our full article on the topic.

What you’ll need:

• Lion’s mane mushroom plug spawn
• Comprising dowels, wax and wax applicator
• Hardwood logs, which are 2-6 weeks old
• Hammer
• Drill with 8mm bit (depending on the size of dowels)
• Gas cooker (if not near to a domestic stove)
• Pan for heating the wax

Buy Now Lion’s Mane Mushroom Plug Spawn From £7.98

Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

As mentioned above, it’s essential to keep your growing space clean to avoid contamination of your spawn.

When growing lion’s mane mushrooms, always use hardwood logs, we suggest beech or oak logs.

It’s vital to choose healthy trees while selecting logs and to never use logs older than 6 weeks. Any tree with rotting wood or symptoms of infection faces an increased risk of competition with pre-existing fungus in the logs.

Start by drilling a row of 15 cm holes down the length of your log. This is deep enough that when you hammer your plug into the wood, it will leave a little space underneath it, giving an ideal environment for the mycelium to thrive.

After you’ve finished the first row of holes, place the following row of holes in a staggered pattern. Begin the next row of holes 6 cm apart from the first, staggering the rows to create a diamond or checkerboard pattern.

Step 2. Inoculating Your Logs

Getting your plug spawn dowels into the hole should now be a breeze. All you have to do now is gently tap them in with a hammer to secure them.

Your plugs should be flush with the log’s timber and just beneath the bark’s surface. You’ll be able to plug the hole with wax this way.

This is an important step in keeping your mycelium safe and uninfected. The most common form of wax used to fill holes is soy wax; however, other waxes such as cheese or beeswax can also be utilised.

Once the wax has melted, use a wax applicator to apply it to your holes. You can buy them inexpensively or make your own with a cotton ball or rag, or a small brush.

Step 3. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Once you have inserted the spawn into your logs and sealed them with wax, your logs are pretty much ready to be left for incubation.

There are several options for storing logs during incubation. Shaded areas like beneath a tree or the side of a house are ideal places to keep your logs.

The most important thing is to keep your logs in an area with good air circulation and a high humidity level.

In dry weather, water your logs with a hose once or twice a week for 10 minutes to maintain the proper moisture level. If they dry out, your mycelium will die.

Step 4. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

You can speed up the growth of your mushrooms by initiating or ‘shocking’ your logs. This can be accomplished by soaking them in cold water for 12-24 hours. This can be done in a stream or pond, a kiddie pool, or even bathtubs or boats!

To ensure that the mycelium has colonised the majority of the log, wait at least a year before shocking it. Instead of waiting two or three years for mushrooms to grow normally, shock is a great technique to accelerate their growth.

When should you harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

It won’t be long before you can harvest and enjoy your lion’s mane mushrooms as they begin to fruit. You might be eating excellent, fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in as little as 4 weeks.

A Lion’s mane mushroom has reached maturity when it stops expanding in diameter and its spines start to lengthen and thicken.

Harvest them before they turn pink or brown for the best taste. To achieve various mane textures, harvest the lion’s mane at various stages of growth and maturity. Younger lion’s mane mushrooms are firmer than their older counterparts.

Cut the “ball” off close to the base of the Lion’s Mane using a sharp knife, being careful not to injure the fruit. If handled gently to avoid bruising, lion’s mane will stay considerably longer in the fridge.

How should Lion’s Mushroom be stored?

Fresh lion’s mane keeps for about a week in the refrigerator. If you have more lion’s mane mushrooms than you can use in a week, dry them out in a food dehydrator or oven to store them.

Fresh vs Dried

Keep them refrigerated and away from water if you’re storing them fresh. Keep in mind that they will only survive a few days in the fridge.

If you want to keep the mushrooms fresh, put them in a paper bag that isn’t too full. They must be able to breathe and keep away from direct dampness; otherwise, they will absorb it like sponges.

If you discover any dark or soft places on a mushroom, or if the mushroom feels squishy and slimy, it’s a dead giveaway that it’s going bad.

Consider drying your mushrooms for a longer-term approach to storing them.

You must finely slice your mushrooms after properly washing them. After that, you set them on your tray and dehydrate them. They’ll be there for the next 6-8 hours. Once completely dry and crisp, seal in a jar and store until ready to eat.

Although this is a straightforward method for long-term storage, it can be time-consuming.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom FAQs

Are Lion’s Mane Good for You?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are a type of medicinal mushroom with a variety of health advantages.

According to research, lion’s mane mushrooms can strengthen the immune system which protects the body from pathogens that enter through the nose and mouth.

Are Lion’s Mane’s Mushrooms Legal?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are perfectly legal. It’s only that fresh lion’s mane is hard to come by, and you’re unlikely to find them at your local supermarket.

What substrates does Lion’s Mane grow best on?

The following are the best types of substrate for growing your Lion’s Mane:

• Hardwood logs (I.e. Ash or Beech)
• Hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP)
• Master’s Mix Supplemented

Other Growing Guides

How To Grow Oyster Mushrooms

How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: Everything You Need To Know

How To Grow Mushrooms In Coffee Grounds

How To Grow Mushrooms In Buckets

How To Grow Mushrooms Outdoors With A Mushroom Bed

You know you made a solid shot but can’t find a drop of blood. Now what? It happens to everyone at least once. Whether you’re bowhunting or rifle hunting, going after mule deer or whitetail, every deer hunter knows this is a risk they take. For one reason or another you will eventually find yourself trying to track a deer that doesn’t seem to be bleeding, no matter how observant you were or how positive you were that you hit your target. You have to do everything you can to retrace your steps to avoid the risk of losing your deer, but how long do you look for blood or a downed deer before being able to confidently determine you actually missed? Well, there are ways to be especially thorough in your search to at least feel like you aren’t walking away from a freezer full of meat. It won’t be easy, but you can use these tips to hopefully get your buck.

Go back to the site of the shot

The first thing you need to do is get back to where you made your shot. Replay the moment in your mind. How was your shot placement? Did you hit it too far forward or too far back? How did the deer react? Did it hunch like a gut shot or bolt like a vital hit?

Once you have that image in your head, look at the ground for disruptions where you hit it. It should be torn up, and there will hopefully be a clear track of your wounded deer. Look for your arrow or immediate signs of blood, but don’t get too far from the shot site. One of the biggest mistakes a hunter can make when tracking a wounded deer is to rush it. I typically wait half an hour before searching for blood outside twenty yards.

Running the risk of bumping a wounded deer is never a good idea. Give the deer time to bed down, and they will likely expire in their first bed. One bump can give a deer enough adrenaline to run another 500 yards and possibly out of your life forever. Be patient.

Circle downwind

To clarify this statement, when deer are shot, it is an instinct for them to circle downwind, roughly 50 to 60 yards. This can be a great starting point to check for blood. If you lose track or can’t find it, start walking in a 40-yard circle from the last place you remember seeing it. Look for white hair sticking out or brown hair if it’s snowing. Move slowly and keep your eyes open for the deer, tracks, or any possible blood.

Look for water and bedding

If blood is scarce, there are other reliable places to search for a downed whitetail. After being shot, deer seek water to replace the fluids lost in their blood. Finding a primary water source, such as a flowing creek headed downhill from the site of the shot, is a great place to search for blood.

Another great place to search for a downed whitetail is in a core bedding area. After being shot, it’s natural that a deer will want to go to a site where they feel safe. If you have a good idea of where that deer was bedding, there’s a good chance that’s where it is headed. Give it time and cautiously approach the area from downwind, looking for signs of blood along the way.

Call the dogs and friends

If it is legal, get tracking dogs. They aren’t a guarantee, but their sense of smell is much better than yours and might get you closer or bring you right to the deer. If you can’t get tracking dogs, get friends to substitute as hunting dogs. Just don’t tell them that they are playing dog for you. Getting more eyes and more experience in the woods is always a good idea.

As we all know, making the perfect shot on a big game animal is tough, especially one that makes blood trailing completely easy. But we should always strive for such a shot and be able to adapt if it doesn’t happen the exact way we want it to.

Deer hunting doesn’t end after the trigger is pulled or the arrow is released. It’s the deer recovery tasks that can often spoil things. Although sometimes necessary, waiting to track a wounded animal until the following day can be agonizing, and finding zero red blood signs without a clue of the animal’s direction of travel, is never a situation we want to encounter.

Here’s hoping these tips contribute to your luck if you do.

READ MORE: The 10 Worst States for Deer Hunting

Are you trying to determine which is the best Shimano spinning reel for your specific fishing needs? There are many options to pick from, so choosing the right reel can be challenging. In this article, we asked our fishing community to recommend their favorites so you can decide for yourself.

How to Choose the Right Shimano Spinning Reel

As you have probably figured out by now, the Shimano brand offers spinning reels that share several noteworthy features. Your choice of the fishing reel should be based on your preferences, style of fishing, the type of fish you’re targeting, and a reputable brand.

Size and Weight

The size of the Shimano spinning reels you get should depend on the size of the fish you want to catch. For instance, if you are targeting smaller fish, a 500 to 1000-size reel should suffice. If your reel is too big for your line size, you will have more lines than you know what to do with, and it’ll be heavy to carry all day.

If you are going with a heavier line, you’d need a bit larger reel. It’d be worth checking out the Shimano Ci4 or FG.

The former is lightweight and made of carbon material that flexes just enough to tackle medium size fish. However, the Stradic FJ is more rigid, which makes it more robust against stronger or bigger fish.

Drag System

Every experienced angler knows that a spinning reel with weak drag is basically a useless reel, especially if you are trying to catch strong fish.

The importance of a quality drag system is in its smoothness and stopping power. Depending on the size of the fish you’re targeting, you’ll want the appropriate drag pressure.

However, when you have a drag system that isn’t smooth, you risk breaking off your fish due to the spikes in tension on the line.

Gear Ratio

Slower ones would be 5s:1 and 6s:1 for heavy loads, and faster gear ratios, i.e., 7:1 or above, are for moving lures quickly through the water.

These determine the speed at which fishing reels pick up the line. So if a reel has a gear ratio of 6.3:1, that means that the spool goes around 6.3 times for every turn the reel handle makes.

What makes gears extra special in these reels is that no cutting work is applied to them. Instead, the whole surface is designed using 3D technology and created via cold forging.

Propulsion Line Management System and Aero Wrap II

Shimano spinning reels feature a Propulsion Management System, one of the best features of which is the Propulsion spool lip design.

It provides a more extended casting range than the standard variety and prevents wind knots and backlashes from forming.

Reels that have the Aero Wrap II feature as well can benefit from optimal oscillation, uniform line lay, and winding shape, which prevents energy loss during casting. In simpler words, with a Shimano reel that has these two features, you can increase how far you cast without exerting yourself.

Line Capacity

The line capacity you want in your Shimano reel will depend on a few factors including.

• Size of the spool
• The line you use on the spool

For example, if you are using a mono line for a Shimano Baitrunner reel, you can get a line that is 265 yds long with a 12 lb test or a 170 yds long line that can withstand a 15lb test.

Similarly, if you prefer braid and are using, say, a Shimano AERO Technium reel, you can get a 60-yds long line that can withstand a 40lb test or a 460-yds line that can withstand a 50lb test.

Quality Materials and Construction

The Hagane design concept in Shimano reels ensures that they can withstand consistent use and extreme abuse in the toughest of conditions.

The strength and durability of the Hagane gearing, efficient power transmission of the X-Ship technology, and the rigid body of the reel maintain this concept in every reel.

All of these benefits come together to eliminate body flexing, which in turn translates into more cranking power.

Shimano Warranty

Shimano reels come with a two-year warranty beginning the moment they are purchased.

It should be noted, however, that this warranty does not cover reels that have incurred damage because of wear and tear or neglect.

Damage that has been inflicted by the end-user is not covered by the warranty, nor is repair, modifications, or improper reassembly. The removal of serial numbers is an absolute no-go and nullifies the warranty no matter the issue.

Shimano USA Headquarters: 1 Holland, Irvine, CA 92618

Shimano phone number: (949) 951-5003

1. Shimano Stella SW

Best Saltwater Spinning Reel

Available in 8 size ranges (from 5,000 to a whopping 30,000), the Shimano Stella SW comes in three gearing ratios. Its power aluminum body, along with an X-rigid rotor handle and body, works together to reduce power loss. Like other Shimano reels, it also features X-ship technology.

This includes two bearings that are situated at either end of the pinion gear and remain in place under heavy load. The Stella makes for high-quality tuna and sailfish reels, which are robust and pull like mad.

We love the aesthetics of this Shimano spinning reel as well as how smooth it casts. However, be prepared to shell out some significant cash for this beauty. The only thing that will put you a bit aback is the price, which is steep. Ultimately, it’s a Stella…you get what you pay for.

2. Shimano Stella FJ

Best Freshwater Spinning Reel

The Shimano Stella FJ spinning reel boasts a smooth drivetrain as well as X-protect. This allows it to resist water damage. The propulsion line management system offers long casting ability and prevents knots from forming in the reel.

The spool support of the main shaft has been strengthened in this model, ensuring smooth drag delivery under heavy loads.

This reel has MicroModule II gearing and silent drive, which provide the smoothest and quietest operation we’ve ever experienced. Again, the only setback might be the price.

3. Shimano Ultegra XSD

Best Long Cast Spinning Reel

Though not usually in the running for the best reel, you would be hard-pressed to find a reel better than the Shimano Ultegra XSD for its price.

Its instant drag system allows you to switch between fight drag and free spool easily. The Super Stopper II feature also prevents back play and free movement on the handle for smooth line management.

The Ultegra XSD spinning fishing reel’s propulsion line management system features the AR-C spool and a patented angled spool lip, which reduces line friction. The technology reduces drag and increases casting distance.

We love how smoothly this reel casts, but we wish the brand had paid more attention to the aesthetics. The fishing reel looks a bit plasticky at first glance.

4. Shimano Exsence

If you need one of the best spinning reels that can withstand harsh saltwater conditions, check out the Shimano Exsence. It features an internal labyrinth structure that repels corrosive saltwater even if you are soaked by the heavy spray.

Plus, the X-Ship technology, as well as the Hagane gear and body, ensure smooth winding and increased durability. Also, the G Free Body technology shifts the center of gravity of the reel closer to the rod and, thus, the angler’s hand position. This reduces fatigue and increases casting distance.

The Shimano spinning fishing reel embodies all of the best features the brand has to offer but in a more rugged and affordable package. There are no cons to this reel that we could see, making this one of the best Shimano spinning reels you can get for saltwater fishing.

5. Shimano Stradic Ci4

The Shimano Stradic Ci4 boasts a CoreProtect waterproof drag system and is exceptionally lightweight, both of which make it ideal for saltwater fishing.

With striking good looks and a smooth operation that is right up there with more expensive models, it is little wonder why the Stradic spinning reel is popular with anglers.

The EVA grip on the Stradic is a lighter alternative to plastic and does not get as slippery when it gets wet, either. Plus, the cold-forge aluminum spool provides extra strength and durability compared to graphite or diecast aluminum spools.

The Shimano Stradic Ci4 is so lightweight that it floats, which you will thank the brand for if it is dragged into the water by an overly feisty fish.

However, the size and position of the anti-reverse lever in this Stradic is a problem. It is located right up against the rotor under the reel and is tiny that you may have difficulty using it.

6. Shimano Stradic Ci4+ RA

Shimano Rear Drag Spinning Reel

The Shimano Stradic Ci4+ spinning reel is an advanced version of the Ci4 fishing reel, the only difference being that it is two and a half times stiffer in comparison. This reduces flexibility in the body and rotor even if the rod is under extreme pressure.

Plus, the Stradic Ci4+ has a 6:1 line retrieve gear ratio and Aero Wrap II oscillation for excellent line lay. The power roller also reduces line twists, which will come in handy if you use mono or braid. The Stradic Ci4+ also boasts five Shielded A-RB bearings for a powerful yet, silky-smooth performance.

The Ci4+ Stradic fishing reel’s rapid-fire drag and the fact that it is an incredibly lightweight reel, make it a must-buy. However, like the Stradic Ci4, it also has a tiny anti-reverse switch, which can be challenging to access, especially when you are trying to reel in a big catch.

However, it is one of the best Shimano spinning reels you can get if you are looking for a light yet robust fishing reel.

7. Shimano NASCI

Inshore Spinning Reel

The Shimano NASCI is one of the best Shimano spinning reels for freshwater as well as saltwater fishing. It boasts the Hagane gear technology for a smooth retrieve experience even under heavy loads. The NASCI is available in 5.0:1 and 6.2:1 gear ratio.

The fishing reel also features thick bail wire that prevents it from wrapping, which is only suitable for propulsion line management.

We love how the NASCI feels in our hands, especially if it is paired with the right rod. The spinning reel can give you hours of easy fishing with little fatigue. However, the spool is not braid-ready, and the reel is not fully sealed either, which can pose a problem.

Frequently Asked Questions