One thing that will help you shoot more accurately is if you know your ammunition’s velocity and other related data. Luckily, there’s a tool for that — a shooting chronograph!

Not only can it measure the velocity of your shots but its data can also help you assess your reloading skills. No longer are chronographs only to be found in ballistics labs, but are now priced so as to be a regular part of a shooter’s kit.

Shooting chronographs are easy to use and show you valuable data.

In turn, these data can help you improve your reloading skills and the quality of your shots. Get that bullet to land where you want to with this shortlist of the best shooting chronographs. We’ll take a look at seven great options.

Shooting chronographs offer help when firing long-range shots in target shooting and before hunting trips.

Some of you may already know that I have been in the gun industry for more than 40 years now.

Over the last few years, I have tried and tested over 15 different chronographs. So, if you are unsure about getting one, then this article might serve as your ultimate buyer’s guide. Here’s the summary of the chronographs that I will discuss in this review:

GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester

• Unbeatable price
• Wide velocity range
• Solid design
• Not as durable as some of the others

$64 Shop NowClick to read my review Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph

• Can adjust accuracy up to 99.75%
• Ideal for beginners due to its ease of use
• Compatible with archery, airguns, firearms, and rifles
• Oversized sunscreens made of plastic
• Thin metal rods are bendable

$114 Shop NowClick to read my review Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph G2

• Has Bluetooth, SMS (text), and email features for data transfer
• Accuracy of +/-.25%
• Can measure 5 to 9,999 FPS (frames per second)
• Connect to a mobile device to view advanced statistical data
• Tripod has an average design

$207 Shop NowClick to read my review Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph

• Records up to 99 string shot data in its internal memory
• Compatible with pistols, shotguns, rifles, and arrows
• Has a velocity range of 21 feet up to 7,000 FPS
• Slower speed recording time when used in outdoor shooting
• Need to buy other accessories (e.g., Indoor Lighting System) for better performance

$110 Shop NowClick to read my review LabRadar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph

• Powers up either by using AA batteries or an external USB power source
• Can track and record different types of statistical data
• Good for both outdoor and indoor use
• Pricier than many other chronographs
• Not suitable to use for long periods of time

$559 Shop NowClick to read my review MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph

• Can record data up to 1,100 rounds per minute
• Compatible with many firearms, including airguns
• Great for pro shooters
• The Bayonet’s weight affects shooting
• Data is hard-to-read

$380 Shop NowClick to read my review Shooting Chrony 7000129 Beta Master Chronograph

• Has an accuracy of up to .5%
• Long battery life up to 48 hours of continuous use
• Complex design
• Read the full manual to achieve best results

$159 Shop NowClick to read my review

Why Is a Chronograph Essential?

I have heard many people ask: “Why should we even bother buying a chronograph anyway?” Chronographs are useful, especially for long-range shooters attempting to test their loads’ consistency.

Here are the three big pieces of data that a good chrono will give you:

For beginners, you may find yourself confused by all this (trust me, I was too). Trying to calculate the data of how your load does at the range is a lot of work.

Chronographs help find the right load for you by doing all the painful calculations.

How a Chronograph Operates

Let’s break this down easy. Chronographs are useful pieces of scientific equipment, but using one for our goals is actually pretty easy.

By default, a chronograph’s main goal is to measure time. This is also true for shooting chronographs.

How a shooting chronograph actually works depends on the exact type you get. Right now, there are three general styles.

Skybox Chronographs

Skybox chronographs use a “skybox” to measure when the shadow of the projectile passes two points. It does some math and provides velocity information. This is the most common and cheapest type of chronograph since they are easy to make and the tech is pretty simple. Chronos like the Caldwell down below use Skyboxes.

The downside of these is that they can be inconsistent depending on the weather. If you’re under 100% sun when you test one batch of ammo but 70% sun when you test a second batch, your results might not entirely match.

Radar Chronographs

Radar chronographs normally use Doppler radar to bounce a single off of the projectile and get information back from it. This is very handy since it can measure velocity at multiple distances between you and the target.

These are also rather expensive and harder to set up than the other kinds. The good news is they are very accurate and work in all weather conditions.

Electromagnetic Chronographs

Electromagnetic chronographs attach to the barrel or the rifle frame in some way and use a bayonet to extend past the muzzle of the barrel. In the bayonet is small electromagnetics that creates a small electromagnetic field above them. Measuring how that field is disturbed by the projectile enables the computer to math out how fast it is moving.

These are decently priced, very easy to use, and work in all weather, but make shooting for groups while taking velocity data at the same time much harder since the weight of the bayonet hanging off of the barrel shifts POI and affects harmonics. This can be solved by getting an aftermarket mount and attaching the bayonet to that.

Where to Use and Store Chronographs

You can use shooting chronographs almost anywhere you wish. Displays are usually easier to read indoors, but I have never had a problem using them outdoors.

My best recommendation is to use your chronograph on a cloudy day. Â

Like guns, you also need to take extra care of your chronograph. You can use a carry bag or kit to store all your chronograph accessories in one place.

7 Best Shooting Chronographs

I have chosen seven of the best shooting chronographs to buy this year. Before we talk about them in greater detail, I have summarized a neat table for you to look at. The table includes the dimensions, weight, and price of each featured chronograph:

NameDimensionsWeightPrice Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph21.5 x 10 x 4 inches3.2 lbs$114.99 Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph G260 x 36 x 36 inches8 lbs$207.00 Gun Gear Depot Precision Chronograph5.1 x 3.1 x 2.0 inches0.4 lbs$64.99 Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph16 x 4 x 32 inches2 lbs$110.49 LaBradar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph11 x 10 x 2 inches2.1 lbs$559.99 MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph12 x 4 x 2 inches2 lbs$380.00 Shooting Chrony 700129 Beta Master Chronograph20 x 20 x 3 inches7 lbs$159.99

Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph

Let’s start with the Caldwell Ballistic. Its decent price offers strong reliability. In addition, this is one of my first chronograph and its high performance is not reflected in its relatively modest price. The Ballistic also includes ¼-20 threads for tripod mounting and a 15-ft audio jack cable for data transfer. Plus, it also has a carry bag suited for portable travel.

The Caldwell Ballistic’s highlight feature is its pinpoint velocity. It has the ability to record readings of 5 to 9,999 fps (frames per second).

It is also factory calibrated and is easy to operate for newbies. Due to its calibrated design, it has a dependable accuracy of +/-.25%. Furthermore, this chronograph also caters to different types of shooters’ needs.

Airguns, arrows, firearms, paintball rifles – you name it! As an archery enthusiast, this chronograph is the one for me.

The Ballistic has a decently sized LCD screen that makes it easy to read. It measures its velocity by MPS (meters per second) or FPS (feet per second).

It records the velocity, SD, and ES of every projectile you fire from your gun. Since it is factory calibrated, its accuracy could reach up to 99.75%.

Like other Caldwells, the Ballistic’s effective accuracy lies at its 48 MHz processor. I saw how it generates quick data when I took my AK-47 rifle out at my local range. Its 15ft jack audio cable allows you to transfer data to all smartphone types.

When I paired it with my iPhone, I read my stats through an Excel sheet format.

Personally, I’ve never had an issue with durability on the Caldwell. Even when I accidentally shot mine with a .22 LR at 5ft, it kept working for almost a year before it finally died on me. Since I did shoot it, I’ll give it a pass for its early retirement.

Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph G2

Compared to the Ballistic, the G2 has a more expensive price in the market ($200+). But this chronograph’s high price equates to its high performance on the range. It has a +/-.25% accuracy like the other Caldwells.

The G2’s upside-down design allows shooters to place it either on a tabletop or with a tripod. Whenever I like to do my shooting test sitting down, I use my G2 instead. It is also compatible with a wide variety of weapons.

Examples are airguns, firearms, arrows, and paintball rifles. If you’re looking for versatile chronographs, the G2 is your best choice!

The G2 can also calculate more different types of data. This includes the average velocity, extreme spread, minimum, maximum, and standard deviation. It can also measure 5 to 9,999 feet per second (FPS) like the rest of its Caldwell counterparts. Unlike the Ballistic, G2 has its Bluetooth and SMS (text) features.

You can transfer your data using Bluetooth without using a cable jack. Also, you can share your data via SMS (text) or email. I can borrow my friend’s laptop, computer, or tablet to view my emailed data at any time. The G2 also includes a carry bag and a rechargeable Li-Ion battery. Click on the video below to see how the G2 works at the range:

The only downside to the G2 is its need for mobile devices. You need a phone, tablet, or laptop to view your advanced data analysis. Its tripod design is also average like other tripods in the market. Due to its collapsible feature, you can also use the G2 for indoor and outdoor shooting.

GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester

If you want a feature-rich shooting chronograph but you’re on a budget, you really can’t go wrong with this one from Gun Gear Depot.

With a velocity range of 999m/s (~3200 fps) it offers an excellent range for an enthusiast. It also records groups of up to forty rounds and will calculate kinetic energy (a feature of the much more expensive LabRadar chronograph).

It is powered by a rechargeable lithium battery (USB cable provided) and is portable and versatile. Its LED display is bright and the chronograph works confidently in most weather conditions – the design incorporates its own ‘sky screen’ over the chronograph. Â

If you want to improve your shooting this chronograph is a great entry-point – it’s affordable, simple to operate, and has a solid design. Decent data with no-nonsense. At the current sale price of $64.99 we highly recommend it.

Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph

If you prefer a simple yet reliable chronograph, then ProChrono is your best bet. This unit is one of the top-rated models in today’s market due to its wide array of features. It also comes with a decent price of $115.99.

Its accessible interface is also fitting for amateur and expert shooters. The ProChrono is also compatible with arrows, pistols, shotguns, and rifles.Â

One of the ProChrono’s best attributes is its shot string data. Its power-down memory can store up to 99 string shots.

The data shows a bullet’s average velocity, standard deviation, and extreme spread. You can also delete an individual or an entire string by touching a button on its easy-to-use keypad.

The ProChrono’s clear 4-digit LCD screen records both meters per second (MPS) and frames per second (FPS). I use this chrony most of the time because I can view my shot string data in greater detail. The ProChrono’s ability to track 21 feet to 7,000 FPS makes it suitable for large shooting areas. You can check out the model’s review below:

This little guy’s shot timing resolution runs up to 750 nanoseconds. As such, it could display shot string data right away. The ProChrono’s only downfall is its speed recording time on sunny days. Outdoor shooting with this chrony slows down the generation of your projectile data.

LabRadar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph

The LabRadar is the most expensive chronograph ($559.95)Â included in this review (but with good purpose!).

Unlike other chronographs, this uses radar instead of sunscreens to measure a bullet’s flight. The LabRadar comes with a set of accessories. This includes a USB cable, warranty card, instructions manual, and carrying cases.

This unit can run either using an external USB power source or 6 AA batteries. When using batteries, it only wastes ¾ of their power after 4 hours of use at the shooting range.

My friend who owns one of the chronys also commented on how easy the LabRadar’s setup is. It only took him less than 5 minutes to set it ready and 2 minutes to adjust between various loads. You can watch an unboxing and review of this chrony here:

The LabRadar also has the ability to track and gain velocities 100 yards and beyond. To test it, I went over to my friend’s place (the same person before) and used my .308 with it. I got my projectile’s maximum range result of 7.62mm per 100 yards! In addition, it also calculates a bullet’s SD, ES, maximum, minimum, and average velocities. Talk about an all-rounder in stats!

I have noticed a few setbacks with the LabRadar. We start off by talking about its price. The LabRadar costs at least $500 or up on average.

The price combined with the extra accessories you often need to get make this a very pricey option with arguably little benefits over something like a MagnetoSpeed V3.

MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph

MagnetoSpeed produces reliable chronographs and the V3 is one of them. The V3 comes at a reasonable price ($380) with great inclusions like its data logging feature.

It can collect data up to 1,100 rounds per minute, earning its top speed and accuracy ratings. This unit is suitable for muzzles and suppressors from ½ to 2 inches in diameter. True to its name, the V3 uses electromagnetic sensors to measure velocities by FPS.

Like many chronographs, you can use the V3 on various kinds of weapons, including airguns. The unit comes with a Bayonet that you attach to the muzzle of your gun to track its load data.

This is one of V3’s straightforward qualities as you can fire your shots away and it generates the data you need. Also, you can adjust the unit to rapid mode if you want to take quick shots. I had a lot of fun using it on my Spring Piston at my local range.

The V3 has a kit that includes a lot of accessories. It has a display unit, a Bayonet sensor, an alignment rod, and an instructions manual. It also has downloadable firmware updates and a troubleshooting guide.

If you ever run into problems, you can do the troubleshooting on your own. Scroll down to watch an overview and unboxing video of the V3:

I love my V3 and use it for nearly every range trip. If you mount the unit to your bayonet you’ll have to accept the shift in POI and adjustable for the new weight.

Personally, I use a mount from MK Machining so I can mount my V3 to the chassis of the rifle. For me, this makes the perfect setup.

Shooting Chrony 7000129 Beta Master Chronograph

Long-range shooter enthusiasts, you might want to read this one out. The Beta Master is one of the best long-range shooting chronographs in the market right now.

Along with its top performance, this chrony costs less than two hundred bucks ($149.99). Regardless of what gun you use, the Beta Master has an outstanding accuracy of .5%.

The Beta Master tracks a bullet’s speed from 30 to 7,000 feet per second which makes it ideal for long-range shooting. It also uses one 9 volt alkaline battery as its power source that could last up to 48 hours when used for long periods.

From my personal experience, I don’t charge the Beta Master often because of its long battery life.

This unit can perform a lot of actions, one of which includes its string shot memory. The Beta Master can store up to 60 shots in its internal memory. Like the ProChrono, you can delete an individual or a whole set of string shot data.

Also, this chronograph only weighs less than 3 pounds which makes it convenient to carry around. If you’re curious about how it does on the field, you can click on the video below:

The only major downside that the Beta Master has is its design. This might overwhelm the first-time users but its manual could help you get past that.

Speaking of the design’s downside, I had two of them and found that I had to be careful when closing the unit (it folds in half, like a clam shell) not to get the power cable from the battery caught between the halves. I practically cut the cable on one my units before I’d determined what was happening.

Turns out it didn’t matter much, as I shot the thing a short time later. go figure! But, give it a little bit of practice and you can see how powerful this bad boy can get.

Conclusion

If you wish to buy a cheap yet reliable chronograph, the GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester has the capacity to record accurate readings with a sale price of $64.99.

For newbies, I recommend the Caldwell Chronograph for its ease-of-use operation and all-in-one package.

MagnetoSpeed V3 goes well with experienced shooters for its complex data calculation.

Which chronograph do you prefer? Share your thoughts below in the comments section!

You might also enjoy:

• How To Reload Ammo [Ultimate Guide]
• [Review] Caldwell Shooting Supplies
• 4 Best Shot Timers

The best bass poppers make a lot of noise on the water, and that is what makes them so effective. They’re one of the oldest lures, but over time, testing has lended them quite a nice hand. Now we have poppers of all different shapes and sizes that work better than ever before.

Through my personal experience and other anglers’ knowledge and expertise, I’ve put together this list of the best poppers for bass fishing. These topwater lures will help you clean house on any freshwater pond or lake, so keep reading.

Our Picks For The Best Bass Poppers

Rebel Lures Pop-R Topwater Popper

BEST BASS POPPER OVERALL

• Type: Teeny Popper
• Size: ⅛ ounce
• Color: Ol’ Bass

FEATURED SPECS

• Design of the mouth spits water which creates a loud noise and vibration to attract ornery bass

EXTRA FEATURES

• Comes with two treble hooks and a feather-like tail which improves the action and natural appearance

BUYING ADVICE

• You can use both a straight retrieval or erratic jerking to imitate an injured baitfish

Pros

• Strong company reputation
• Great topwater action
• Versatility

Cons

• Many anglers recommend swapping the hooks

It’s a no-brainer that the Rebel Pop-R is the best topwater popper for bass fishing. If you’ve ever watched a bass fishing tournament or attended one, I can guarantee you’ve seen this lure used many times. It’s won hundreds of thousands of dollars in tournament money for many professional anglers.

When you cast it out, and it hits the water, you’ll hear the pop. Then, as you’re retrieving it, the lure spits water out using the concave mouth, which creates a lot of disturbance to attract the bass.

Arbogast Hula Popper

RUNNER-UP BASS POPPER

Specs

• Type: Hula Popper
• Size: 1 ¼ – 2 ¼
• Color: Yellow Belly

FEATURED SPECS

• Features an extra-strong and sharp treble hook to make it easier to set the hook

EXTRA FEATURES

• The hula popper creates a loud popping sound when it hits the water, and it bubbles as you retrieve

BUYING ADVICE

• Locate some grass beds and cast this right in there because it’s meant to imitate a jumping frog

Pros

• Great loud presentation
• Large lure catches big bass
• Works well at night too

Cons

• The lure is a bit large for some

Here we have another legendary lure with a long-standing history of creating successful anglers out of newbies. The skirt on this one pulsates, so it creates a clicking noise as you retrieve it. You can pair that with the concave mouth that creates a bubble trail.

Arbogast Jitterbug

BEST JITTERBBUG

Specs

• Type: Jitterbug
• Size: 2 ½ inches and ⅜ ounce
• Color: 16 color variations

FEATURED SPECS

• The double cupped lip creates an extremely loud presentation when it hits the water

EXTRA FEATURES

• This lure is small, so it’s great for casting large distances

BUYING ADVICE

• Make sure to choose your color to mimic your surroundings. They offer a wide assortment of colors.

Pros

• Loud presentation
• Great casting distance
• Exceptional night time lure

Cons

• Too many buying options

It’s not often that I would say having too many lure options is a bad thing, but it is when they’re confusing. I find this lure to have too many size variations where some are jointed, and some aren’t, it makes it confusing.

If I were you, I’d go with a non-jointed small lure option and purchase a couple of them in different colors, so you have one for each situation. I highly recommend getting a black one because this lure creates such a loud presentation; you don’t need the bass to see it for night fishing.

Heddon Chug’N Spook Popper

BEST SPOOK

Specs

• Type: Popping Spook
• Size: ½ ounce
• Color: Black Shiner

FEATURED SPECS

• Thin profile allows this lure to move through the water quickly while chugging and spitting

EXTRA FEATURES

• Also comes with a loud rattle inside to add to the already loud presentation

BUYING ADVICE

• These come in both fresh and saltwater options. That makes this one of the best poppers for striped bass as well.

Pros

• Simple and effective
• Comes with a wide range of colors and sizes
• Torpedo movement through the water

Cons

• Made in China

Don’t get confused by this lure. We’re not talking about the standard Heddon spook here; the company also makes a popper with a similar design. The only difference between this and the original spook is the concave mouth.

While it does a great job of creating noise from its mouth, the ticker on this lure is the internal rattle paired with the mouth.

Rapala X-Rap Pop 07

BEST SPITTER

Specs

• Type: Spitter
• Size: 2 ¾ inches
• Color: Silver/Red

FEATURED SPECS

• Incredibly lifelike appearance meant to mimic an injured shad or minnow

EXTRA FEATURES

• Deep cupped mouth with extended top lip spits water as you retrieve it

BUYING ADVICE

• These work great near docks or low hanging trees because they have a long casting system that provides pinpoint accuracy on your cast.

Pros

• Rapala reputation is always good
• Tail-down design improves the presentation
• Great spitting action
• Lifelike appearance

Cons

• Fragile hooks

If you’ve read any of my other reviews, you know I like to stick with a great company. Rapala bass lures are some of the best on the market, and the design of this one really proves that to us.

Whether you’re looking at the arched back to create a better presentation or the precisely cupped mouth which spits water and makes noise, this lure is designed perfectly for its intended purpose.

What Are Poppers?

Poppers are a topwater lure that make a loud popping and spitting sound when they hit the water and retreat. They come in a few different designs and styles, but the selling point is the design and shape of their mouth.

These are not weedless lures because they often come with two treble hooks. You’ll want to fish these near the weeds, but not necessarily in them. Having a bit of clear water allows the design to work it’s magic.

The topwater nature of these make them a great lure for smallmouth bass but certain options like the spook also dive a little so they work well for largemouth bass too.

Types of Bass Poppers

You’ve got a large assortment of bass fishing lures that claim to be poppers, but overall, we’re sticking to two main types. You have chuggers and spitters. They’re both very similar, but the presentation they create in the water is what makes them a little different.

Chuggers

The chugger is a lot like the Arbogast Hula Popper we reviewed above. These create a loud pop sound when they hit the water, and then they bubble when you retrieve them. As you pull them in, they almost shroud themselves in bubbles, and when they pop, that’s when you get the loud noise you’re looking for.

Spitters

The main difference between these two is in the shape of their mouth. When you look at a spitter closely, you’ll notice that the top lip of the concave mouth sticks out a little further than the bottom lip. As a result, these lures don’t create that bubble shroud and trail; instead, they spit the water back out somewhat like a water wheel.

It makes a softer sound, but I’ve found that the noise is more consistent, which is what drives bass crazy. Our top pick above is a perfect example of a high-quality spitter.

Features to Look For in the Best Poppers

Popper bass fishing is pretty basic, and most of the lures operate in the same fashion. When you’re shopping around, make sure to look for the following features to determine you have the right lure in your hand.

Concave Mouth – The main feature that makes this lure tick is the design of its mouth. The mouth either spits or chugs, and both of these create a loud noise when they hit the water and when you retrieve them. One sure-fire way of knowing you have a popper is by looking at the design of the mouth.

Treble Hooks – Topwater poppers for bass fishing always come with at least one treble hook. This is because you need to be able to set the hook when a bass comes at you from a variety of different directions. Many of the stock hooks that come with lures are low-quality, so be sure to pay attention to that.

Color Variations – Color is an important buying factor because it will impact your success. I always suggest mimicking the color of your lure to match the surroundings where you’re fishing. Most popular companies like Rapala or Rebel offer an assortment of colors, so you don’t have to worry about that.

How to Fish Poppers for Bass

Interestingly enough, there aren’t too many bass fishing tips I can give you on fishing poppers. They’re one of the simplest lures to fish, which makes them great for beginner bass fishing. You have two options for retrieving.

You can play it safe and follow a steady retrieval. You’ll do this by casting out and retrieving by cranking the reel at a normal pace. The popper will spit and chug as you do this at a natural pace.

If you’re looking to make things a little more interesting, you can cast out, leave the rod tip down and use the tip to jerk the lure in an erratic motion. For this, I suggest getting a lure with a little red on it. Some of the options recommended above have red bellies.

For this, to work best, you’ll keep the line tight, lift the rod tip up quickly, reel in the slack, and repeat this process. The bass will think your lure is injured, and they’ll be more likely to strike it.

Best Time to Use Poppers for Bass

While there isn’t a “wrong” time to fish poppers, any self-respecting bass angler would tell you that night time, overcast, or dusk is the best time to use these. When it’s dark, bass can’t see the lure as well, so they rely on what they hear.

For this situation, having a loud lure that draws a lot of attention is the key to success. Again, be sure to keep everything else in mind as well. Choose a color that relates to the time of day. If it’s pitch black out with very little moonlight, go with a completely black lure.

If you’ve got some moonlight, choose something that might reflect some of that light. Go with a silver shad color or something like that.

Also, keep in mind how your presentation needs to change based on the time of day and year. When it’s a cooler, overcast day – you need to slow it down. When it’s hot, and the sun is still beaming down at 9 pm, you can afford to pick up the pace a little.

Final Thoughts

The best bass poppers aren’t hard to find because so many of the most popular lure brands make a ton of them. I suggest sticking with the Pop-R, Heddon, and Rapala when it comes to these. Even if you have to pay an extra buck or two, you know you’re getting the highest quality lures.

The best thing about poppers is that they’re easy to fish. If you have a kid or a friend who is looking to get into fishing, get them hooked by rigging a topwater popper and showing them how easy it is to catch bass with the right lure and the proper strategy.

We love talking to our community here at Anglers.com, so be sure to drop us a comment with your favorite popper story and tell us more about how you like to fish these lures.

Good luck out there!

It’s not uncommon for anglers and my clients to ask about the best baits for salmon fishing on rivers around the great lakes. Therefore I thought I would write an article about the best baits for salmon that I and other river guides use, and include how and when to choose certain baits, and how I rig them.

The 4 best baits for fishing salmon in rivers are the spawn bag, the trout bead, a nymph or egg fly, and the plastic worm. These baits come in different sizes and colors and some will fish better than others depending on the conditions. Other baits like shrimp, grubs, and skein can be deadly effective.

I will discuss all 10 baits that I use annually.

These are just 4 of the best baits for salmon but there are a few other great baits that I will discuss and a bonus bait that at times might be better than all the other salmon baits. Look for my Guide Tip to see this hot bait.

I will also discuss the best hooks and leaders for each bait because a great bait can be often an ineffective bait simply using the wrong hook or a leader that is too thick or doesn’t work well.

Hooks And Leaders For The Best Salmon Baits

In the picture above I show you how to put a bait on a hook properly and why this way is better. There are 2 things you need to consider when putting your bait onto the hook and these are both important if you want to get the maximum effectiveness out of your bait and if you want to get better hook sets.

Hook Size

The first problem with an oversize hook is that the fish are more likely to see your hook and refuse the bait. It might not matter how great the bait is if they spot the hook.

An extra-large hook is also heavy and that may not allow your bait to flow naturally in the current because it might act like an anchor weight that keeps dragging your bait to the bottom which may result in fewer bites and also too many snags.

Just like trout, salmon almost always look and feed up or sideways and they rarely feed downwards so a bait that is constantly on the bottom of the river will likely not get eaten. A lighter hook will allow your bait to stay off the bottom and in the strike zone.

Something else to consider is that your bait should be proportionate to the hook and the bait should be covering at least 50% of the hook.

Bait Placement

Another mistake many anglers make is blurring the hook point into the bait. On very soft baits like skein or spawn that might be OK, but on plastics and firmer baits, it’s a problem.

Covering the hook point can and likely will prevent soft-biting fish from getting hooked or it can impede the hook from going into the fish which might affect how well the hook holds.

The Best Hooks For Salmon Baits

I have always found that short shank wide gap hooks are the best hooks for salmon fishing in rivers when using most baits and under most conditions.

A short hook means less hook exposed at the top and the bottom and a wide gap improves hooking percentage and tends to hold the fish better.

However, an exposed hook point can sometimes hook itself even without a hook set.

Myself, my guides and other guides that I know like to use hooks like these and we recommend them to our clients.

The best hooks for salmon baits are:

• #1 – Raven Specimen hook – A wide Gap hook that has become very popular with my guides. It hooks and holds well, and it’s strong for big salmon.
• #2 – Gamakatsu Octopus hook – A hook that has been around for many years and is a proven good hook for salmon and steelhead and liked by many anglers.
• #3 – Raven Specialist hook – Another great hook that is used by many anglers around the great lakes. It’s bit thinner
• #4 – Redwing Tackle Blackbird Sabretooth Premium hooks – similar to the Gamakatsu and Specialist, this is a good hook for salmon and steelhead and is well like by many anglers
• #5 – Daiichi 1150 Heavy Wide-Gape Hooks – This is my go-to hook when fishing beads or when fishing gin clear water for nervous salmon, steelhead, and trout. It’s a thinner lighter wire hook so it’s not the hook you want to be dragging big salmon in with, but it’s a low-profile hook that allows your bait to move more naturally and is less visible than the other hooks above.

For great lakes salmon fishing in rivers I would recommend having one or two of these hooks in sizes from size 6, size 8, and size 10, and be sure to match the size of the hook to the bait size.

The Best Baits For Salmon Fishing In Rivers

When I fish for salmon, steelhead, and even trout and I catch a ton of fish, if another angler asks how I did when I tell them how many fish I caught they often ask what bait I was using. Often, these anglers didn’t do so well, so they think the reason I did so much better is because of my bait.

The honest truth is that 9 out of 10 anglers that are not catching much fish are because of things not even related to their bait. Things like a bad presentation or a bad leader setup, and even a bad hook can be a reason for not catching any fish.

How you present your bait is often more important than the bait itself.

I tell my clients that the bait is only as good as your presentation, and your presentation is only as good as your leader setup, therefore you need to get it all correct if you want to catch more fish.

That means that if you drag your bait through the pool, or your bait is way over their fish’s heads, or you cover the water poorly, or even if your leader is too thick or not built properly, your great bait could become less effective and maybe not work at all.

If you think your presentation needs some work, or you would like to see my proven leader setup for salmon and steelhead be sure to check out my page How To Fish For Salmon.

The reason why spawn bags catch more salmon than any other bait is that 90% of anglers use spawn bags. If 90% of anglers used beads, or flies then they would be the best bait. I’m not saying that spawn isn’t the best bait, it’s just that there are times when it’s not.

I find that too many anglers are one-sided and only fish spawn and that mentality could limit the amount of salmon you catch. Many times I have outfished the spawn bag guys, even standing right beside 10 of them with other baits.

If 10 guys are running spawn bags through a pool for hours, those salmon will quickly get smart and stop eating spawn bags.

This is why I can often walk into a pool that everyone has fished with spawn bags and I will use a small fly, or a pink worm, or something that is different, smaller, or less intrusive, and I will catch a bunch of salmon that the spawn guys couldn’t catch.

However, spawn is often the best bait for new anglers and I discuss the reasons why I think this, as well as my color and size preferences in different types of water on my page Spawn Bag Tactics And Secrets.

For most spawn bag sizes I prefer to use a size 10 or size 8 hook.

Single Salmon Eggs

There are times when single eggs on a small size 12 Daiichi Salmon Egg Hook can be the best bait for salmon fishing in rivers. The store-bought single eggs are prepared in a way that allows them to scent well and stay on the hook.

My preferred single salmon eggs are the Pautzke Balls O’ Fire Salmon Eggs, and my most effective colors are Natural or Yellow, but other colors like Chartreuse, Pink, and Red have been very effective, especially in dirtier water.

Single eggs are most effective in low clear water when salmon are holding, but they can be great in any type of water, deep, fast, dirty, and clear.

If you don’t live near a tackle store and you need to buy your single eggs or spawn bags or even loose trout eggs online these are your best options:

Salmon Fishing With Beads

Fishing with soft and hard beads has become a very popular way of fishing for salmon, steelhead, and trout. The reason beads are so popular is that they work very well.

The belief is that salmon will occasionally eat eggs that float past them out of instinct, aggression, or even hunger, and they might eat just to maintain energy to prolong their spawning duration which can allow them to spawn longer and spawn more often.

Beads are a great way to imitate those loose salmon eggs drifting in the current, and based on my experience, beads will often outfish bigger spawn bags.

There are a few different brands of beads as well as soft and hard plastic and glass beads that anglers can use.

There are also a few good ways to rig beads. Anglers also have a ton of different colors and sizes to use and I discuss all of this and how I fish beads for steelhead and salmon on my page Advanced Bead Fishing For Salmon: Guide Tactics and Setup.

Or, if you are a trout angler, I go into detail on how to fish beads for trout on my page Bead Fishing For Trout.

Plastic Worms For Salmon Fishing

For many years, three and 4-inch plastic worms have been my secret hot bait for steelhead and trout, but worms are also one of my best baits for salmon fishing in rivers and I use them all the time. In fact, many of my buddies and guides swear that beads are often their top bait for salmon.

I have seen salmon hit a worm that is swinging across the pool at the end of a drift, and I have seen salmon hit a worm as it’s being reeled in, and I have even seen salmon chase a worm to the surface.

These 3 brands are great when fishing with the pink and red are my most effective colors.

Pink worms are my go-to color most of the time when I am fishing for salmon, but I have had days when the salmon prefer the red or brown worms, and Chartreuse worms can be very effective some days.

Also, If you are looking to try other colors like orange and white, both have worked for me, the Berkely Trout Worms have a lot of interesting colors.

I discuss my tactics, setups, and my favorite worms for steelhead, trout, and salmon on my page Fishing With Worms.

Flies Are A Great Bait For Salmon In Rivers

There are times when the anglers are all using spawn bags or brightly colored baits and that can sometimes stop the fish from feeding. This is when a black or brown nymph can really shine.

Most often I will use size 8 and 10 flies but will sometimes drop down to a smaller size 12 when the fish are pressured and nervous.

Some of the best flies for salmon fishing are: (click the link to see or buy the fly)

Wooly Bugger – Like this in a size 8 or 10 but have done well with smaller size 12 and 14 sizes. I also like them with or without a gold or silver bead head. I do find that the pattern in the link with the flash on the sides works the best. I have found that black and olive work the best, but there are some days when white and pink will be hot.

I like the flash on this fly because the salmon seem to be more attracted to flashy flies.

Prince nymph – This is a fantastic attractor nymph pattern that has been great for salmon and steelhead. I think the combination of the greenish shine on the body and the white wing gets their attention.

Stonefly – I tie my own and have a pattern that seems to worm better than most. This Bead Head Copper John Nymph in the link is the closest that I have seen to the stonefly pattern that I tie and use.

Copper John – Another great fly that seems to work in most colors however the red body version is the hot fly some days.

Zug Bug – Something about the peacock herl on this fly that drives big salmon crazy some days. I will always have some of these on hand. In fact, I have found that peacock hearl seems to work very well on salmon, so I use and do well with other flies with peacock herl like the Pheasant Tail Nymph.

If you want to see more of the flies that I use and recommend when fishing for salmon around the great lakes, be sure to check out my page on the Best Flies For Salmon Fishing On The Great Lakes: COMING SOON, or if you want to learn to fly fish for salmon check out my page How To Fly Fish For Salmon.

Using Shrimp For Salmon Fishing

Shrimp are recognized as effective bait for salmon fishing, with anglers enhancing their effectiveness by adding colors, scents, or attractants. Different types of shrimp, such as Coon Shrimp, Stripped Shrimp, Sand Shrimp, and Salad Shrimp, have proven successful in catching salmon.

While shrimp work well in faster currents, they are not as effective in slower or stagnant water.

Curing shrimp is a simple process, and ready-to-use cures and brines are available for consistent results.

Properly cured and dyed shrimp can prolong their lifespan and entice salmon to strike. Rigging shrimp involves using a size 6 or 8 hook and attaching the shrimp once in the head area.

See Salmon Fishing With Shrimp for more cures and info on this bait.

Various methods can be employed for salmon fishing with shrimp, including bottom fishing, plunking, side drifting, and float fishing. Each method has its advantages and requires specific techniques. Adding a floating bead to keep the shrimp off the bottom can be beneficial.

While shrimp have their place in salmon bait options, they may not have equal success rates compared to proven baits like spawn bags or skein when float fishing.

Using shrimp as an additional bait option is recommended when other baits are not producing desired results, but they should not be the primary choice.

Professional guides have found success with shrimp and many guides will use shrimp on the middle hook of plugs when side drifting or plunking for salmon.

Minnows and Minnow Patterns For Salmon Fishing

I have used live, dead, and even dead salted minnows with some success on fresh-run salmon that have just entered the river.

The best minnow imitation for salmon fishing and what I prefer to use most often is the Berkley Gulp! Alive Minnow or, if I want more action the Berkely Gulp Alive Paddleshad. I will fish these minnow imitations under a float or when bottom bouncing in shallow runs and pockets.

Other good options for minnow patterns are the Berkley PowerBait Pro Twitchtail Minnow and the Cabela’s Fisherman Series Go-To Swim Minnow which has a little extra movement in the tail in faster currents.

Most of the time I use minnows that are natural shad or minnow colors like silver with back, green or blueish backs. However, orange and chartreuse can be hot some days.

With these minnows, I will use a size 8 or 10 hooks and will hook it mid-body at the top of the back so that it rides more horizontally in the current.

Plastic Grubs and Plastic Flies Are Great For Salmon

Something that not a lot of anglers use is plastic grubs and plastic flies, however, I have had very good success with these baits under a float or when bottom bouncing. I use them in medium to fast-moving water mostly.

Salmon, like many river fish, are opportunistic and will grab anything that is presented well and looks edible.

The Mad River Steelhead Grubs, the Berkley Gulp! Crickets and the Berkley Gulp! Pinched Crawlers have all been good for me.

I have also done very well some days with the 3.5″ Vudu Rattle Shrimp in the colors gold, natural, and magic. I have also done well with Tsunami Holographic Shrimp in colors rootbeer, silver glitter, and red glitter.

Another bait that fits into this category is the leech. Yes, I salmon fish with leeches. I don’t use real leeches but there are some great fake ones. My favorite is the Berkley Gulp! 3” Leech or the Gulp Alive Leech.

Plastic Eggs, Fake Eggs, and Egg Clusters

Just like the beads and spawn sacks, these are just imitation eggs and at times they will work great for steelhead and salmon.

Plastic single eggs and egg clusters like the Sac Attack Imitation Cluster Eggs, or the Mad River Single Eggs and the Berkley Gulp! Floating Salmon Eggs.

Other potential baits Include:

• Salmon Fishing With Corn
• Salmon Fishing With Powerbait
• Salmon Fishing With Marshmallows
• Salmon Fishing With Minnows

Jigs For Salmon Fishing

You can fish with jigs for salmon a few different ways. There are times when casting a bass or walleye-style jig with a spinning rod and then slowly swinging it and bouncing the jig off the bottom and across the river can be deadly for salmon, steelhead, and even for trout.

For this tactic, I used Chompers Skirted Football Jigs, or the No-Alibi Pearl Alien Jigs, or the Missile Jigs Ike’s Mini Flip Jig. I have also done well with a jig head and a plastic minnow like the Berkley Gulp Alive minnow or even a twister tail type grub like the 4 inch Strike King Rage Tail Grub.

There are other times when drifting a jig under a float will be very effective and I use this method the most.

I will also use the bottom bouncing method and will dead drift the jig or use a bounce and dead drift presentation.

I’ve also done very well with the Steelhead Worm Jigs, or Kalin’s Marabou Jigs, or the Mimic Fry Jig, and the Fly Jig. These are all good options when salmon fishing under a float.

Using Skein For Salmon Fishing

A very hot bait for many anglers and a bait that often works when other baits don’t is Skein.

There are many salmon guides and anglers that will tell you this is the most effective bait that you can use for salmon, and at times, I will 100% agree with them.

Skein is the immature eggs of salmon, steelhead, or trout. Skein eggs are stuck together by a fine membrane and as the salmon get close to spawning the eggs will start to loosen from the membrane so they can be dropped when the salmon spawns.

Many anglers know that skein can work better than any other bait, especially with fresh salmon that are just entering the river. I drift skein under a float or when bottom bouncing.

All of my guides love to use skein when fishing for great lakes salmon and on days when the salmon are being difficult skein is often the only way to get the salmon to bite.

Most anglers will use Coho or king/Chinook salmon skeins from fish that they have caught but not all anglers have access to skein which is ok because you can buy salmon skeins in whole or in chucks.

Some of the best skeins you can get are the Pro-Cure Salmon Roe or the Pro-Cure Vacuum Packed Salmon Skeins eggs on Amazon.

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Lures For Salmon Fishing

If you are the type of angler that likes to throw lures at salmon and want to know my best lures and my tactics check out my page Lure Fishing For Salmon and don’t forget to check out my page Best Gear For River Fishing where I discuss all the release gear, waders, boots, vest and more.

Putting The Best Salmon Baits To Use

How you use the bait is as important as the bait itself. When I fish baits in the river for salmon I either use the float fishing method or I use something known as Bottom Bouncing.

You can see how to do both of these methods well on other pages. Check out my page Float Fishing For Salmon – Great Lakes Tactics From A Top Guide and my page Bottom Bouncing – 5 Proven Guide Tips For More Fish.

Want more on what bait to choose and when, see below.

FAQs About The Best Baits For Salmon

I received this message from a reader and thought I would share it with you since it’s related to the best baits for salmon and how to fish them in certain situations.

Question: Could you please elaborate a bit on when would the Salmon prefer a minnow style bait over eggs or rubber worms.

And targeting them on the fly like the woolly bugger and gulp minnows, is a complete dead drift better than say a retrieve where you trot the float in minuet steps of slow and fast speeds thus causing small up and down jigging motion on the buggers and other streamers to get a reaction bite?I came across a pod of 3-4 salmon and tried dead drifting, worms/woolly buggers/egg-sucking leeches, I couldn’t get them to bite at all except for one swipe at the egg-sucking leech.

Hi Durvesh,

I dead drift baits that don’t normally have movement in the river and on occasion, I might bounce or jig a bait like a minnow, a fly, or a jig to get a reaction strike. However, it will depend on the spot. 3 or 4 salmon holding in a smaller clear pool are likely to be nervous fish, therefore jigging or causing any type of commotion on the surface can spook them even more.

In larger faster flowing spots, jigging or holding back and releasing your float might work but 90% of the time I will dead drift a bait and it seems to work well.

I will often use smaller less intrusive baits like flies in low clear waters and bigger brighter baits in bigger pools or faster water.

Trying to determine if the fish want a worm or an egg or a minnow is trial and error and I will often rotate baits in each spot until I find something that works.

Make sure you use the right type of float for the type of water you are fishing, make sure you have the right leader set up and the right size leader for the spot, and make sure you fish well and don’t spook the fish.

Sometimes salmon can be very aggressive when something enters their space so they may hit an aggressively retrieved fly, jig, or lure out of anger or a territorial thing, so sometimes a switch to a lure will do the trick. However, that is always my last resort since that can also spook the fish.

Honestly, some salmon just won’t eat once they enter the river no matter what you do or try.

Ask A Guide About The Best Baits For Salmon Fishing

If you have a question, comment, or even a suggestion related to the best baits for salmon fishing in the river, let me and other readers hear it in the comment section below and I or one of my guides will get back to you.

Tight Lines

Graham

Everyone has seen them, perhaps not knowing them by name. Gardeners despise them, but kids love them. Found under lawns, rocks, and dirt, fishermen have long turned to them for bait. They look like short thick worms, but exactly what is a grub?

Feast your eyes on the following run down about everything grub related. Find out what they are, where they come from, where they are found, and most importantly how they can be used to catch fish!

Appearance – Life Cycle – and Common Characteristics of Grubs

The definition of a grub in laymen’s terms is the larva stage (or worm stage) of a beetle. When a beetle hatches from its egg it is first a grub, or beetle larva. Beetles come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. They also come this way while in their larval form giving quite a variety to their appearance. Common grubs are white grubs which are know to be quite devastating to lawns. Other grubs might not be so conspicuous, but they can all work wonders triggering a fish to bite.

Most grubs look like short and hairless caterpillars, but they like to live under ground. Grubs often curl up when exposed making a kind of C shape. They vary in terms of lifespan, but many grubs can spend several years before the metamorphosis to a beetle takes place. They can be found in almost every area of the world. Grubs prefer soft, damp dirt and can be found under grass, rocks, dirt, old stumps, fallen trees, etc.

Grubs from a Fisherman’s View Point

While the gardener is trying to kill these pests and keep them from destroying his lawn or crop, thefisherman sees them as the next best thing to night crawlers. Yes it’s no big secret I guess that a lot of fish like to eat worms, and grubs are basically that. They’re close enough it seems, because fish don’t seem to make much of a distinction.

When it comes to fishing with grubs, there are two different classifications an angler should be aware of. The first and less common is fishing with live grubs. You won’t hear as much about this, but fish don’t care what info is out there. They’ll eat them with pleasure. The second is all about fishing with plastic lures. Specifically what’s known as grub lures. You’ll often hear single or double tailed grub associated with these kinds of plastics. They work as well or better than live grubs. Getting a start using grubs for fishing takes nothing more than an affordable spinning rod an reel combo.

Fishing with Live Grubs

Live grubs will work to catch any kind of fish that forages for worms and insects as a food source. You can use grubs as bait by employing almost any set up you like. Bobbers, fly line, or the Carolina rig are all good techniques to use. Many grub larva will pop when you pierce them, so hook them once in and back out to keep them set.

This kind of fishing will require place casting to a spot you either see fish, or believe is holding fish. Sit back and wait for a bite. Give it some time, then move and try a different area if you don’t see action.

Fishing with Artificial Grubs

Fishing with artificial grubs is also known as fishing plastics. The grub lure really doesn’t look that much like a live grub. The lures are made with tails that give a spinning look by curling as they are propelled through the water. I believe it’s this spinning effect that draws strikes.

One thing I love about artificial grub fishing is that I’m never standing around. I do a lot of casting and usually get to pull on some fish, but I’m never lazy. Another feature of fishing a plastic grub is the ability to catch predatory fish that believe it’s something swimming through the water. I get halibut and spotted bay bass that would be much less likely to eat a live grub. Trout and fresh water bass have no problem eating a live or a plastic grub.

What is a Grub Going to Catch?

There will be a distinction between species of fish you catch depending on whether you’re using live or artificial grubs. This will be the same in either fresh or saltwater bodies that provide habitat for multiple species of fish. The difference between the two lies mostly in how the fisherman is able to present them to the fish.

Using live bait mostly requires that you use weight to get your bait out when casting, and into a desired location. It then sinks to the bottom where it lays in wait for foraging fish to swim by. Now it’s not to say that larger predatory fish don’t forage at times because they do. This can often be a result of seasonal behavior. You will tend to catch foraging types of fish more often than not with this kind of technique.

When you’re fishing an artificial grub as a lure, you will tend to get more reactionary strikes. This means you will catch fish that are more predatory in nature. They’re used to having only a second to decide whether to attack or not. The spinning tail of the artificial grub is especially suited for reaction strikes. You can slowly bounce it off the bottom, or swim it at any speed desired. The tail works effortlessly either way, and drives fish mad.

Wrapping up the Grub

Any landscape artist or gardener has surely come across these pests in their everyday work. They’ve mentioned them in bellyaching conversation and been asked in return, What is a grub? It’s quite interesting that the same critters that give these professional tradesmen so much grief can be valued by fishermen. I do hope you’ve enjoyed the bit of info provided, and I suppose the moral of the story is to get those grubs out of your lawn and into the water.

The new crossbows for 2024 are faster, more accurate and quieter than ever.

1. TenPoint Flatline 460

TenPoint’s new Flatline 460 Oracle X with the Burris Oracle X rangefinding crossbow scope gets the job done quickly and efficiently. It launches arrows at 460 fps from a stable, comfortable platform measuring only 26.5 inches long and 7.5 inches wide, with a 14-inch power stroke. The RX8-Cam™ system produces such high speeds, and Vector-Quad™ cable technology utilizes four cables, eliminating cam lean and generating straight-nock travel for pinpoint accuracy. A new, 1.5-inch longer dovetail and new aluminum Scope Struts provide a rock-solid foundation for optics mounting. Plus, the center-mounted riser eliminates the nose-heavy feel of traditional crossbows. Its ultra-light, two-piece TEC-TACTICAL stock is built for comfort, with an adjustable buttplate of up to an inch for a perfect fit. The included Burris® Oracle X™ Rangefinding Crossbow Scope features a built-in laser rangefinder that is activated via wireless remote. It instantly ranges game up to 200 yards away, and allows for 20-yard aiming in the event of a battery failure. Other features include an ACUslide with Auto-Brake Gear System for safe de-cocking, S1 zero-creep 2-stage trigger, Veil Alpine camo and more.

MSRP: $3,299 | tenpointcrossbows.com

2. Wicked Ridge Blackhawk XT

The Blackhawk XT from Wicked Ridge provides numerous features and the power to take down big game at an affordable price. Made in America, it is equipped with the built-in ACUdraw or ACUdraw 50, making cocking and de-cocking the bow quiet and easy. The ACUdraw is a fully integrated, user-friendly crank cocking device that reduces the draw weight to 5 pounds. The ACUdraw 50 takes the 50% reduction rope-cocking concept to an easy-to-use level with self-retracting cords and hooks that magnetically store in the buttstock’s unit when not in use. The bow’s 175-pound draw design consists of a lightweight riser and machined aluminum limb pockets fitted with 11-inch WRX laminated limbs. Powered by heavy-duty, machined 5S Cams and DynaFLIGHT 97 string and cables, the Blackhawk XT measures a narrow 15 inches wide and drives arrows downrange at speeds up to 380 fps. Other features include a fully integrated fore-grip backed up with elongated safety wings to keep the shooter’s hand safely below the bowstring’s path. The fully enclosed triggerguard provides added safety from accidental discharge. Its stock also features a picatinny rail below the front of the barrel to mount additional accessories. The package includes a TenPoint 4×32 scope, three Alpha-Nock Carbon arrows, a cocking device, and a quiver.

MSRP: $549 with ACUdraw; $449 with ACUdraw 50 | tenpointcrossbows.com

3. Barnett Hyper XP 405

This new crossbow utilizes the HyperFlite narrow-diameter arrows for deeper penetration, less wind drift, increased durability and engineering for delivery of maximum kinetic energy. The Hyper XP 405 features a narrow, 10-inch-wide profile when cocked. The parallel limb configuration, combined with a track-mounted string damper, significantly reduces recoil and noise while enhancing accuracy. Pairing the Hyper XP 405 with 22-inch, .204-diameter HyperFlite arrows increases the arrow’s flight and improves downrange accuracy with speeds to 405 fps and 138 foot-pounds of energy. Other features include a metal-injected molded trigger and TriggerTech Frictionless Release Technology. This provides a reliable, crisp, 3-pound pull for consistent shots and improved accuracy. An Anti-Dry Fire (ADF) system and a nock sensor ensure the crossbow cannot fire unless the arrow is loaded correctly. It also comes with finger safety reminders above the fore-grip, an adjustable buttstock for length-of-pull, and a 4-5x32mm red/green illuminated scope for bright or dim light.

MSRP: $599 | barnettcrossbows.com

4. AXE Crossbows AX440

Axe® Crossbows continues to define performance with the introduction of the AX440. At a maneuverable, stable and easily shouldered 30.5 inches long and less than 12 inches axle-to-axle (cocked), the weight of the 440 is centered over the shooter’s hand by way of a balanced shoot-through stock and riser design, and reverse limb system. This configuration empowers the most efficient part of the split limb system from just 15 inches of power stroke to launch bolts at 440 fps. The Axe cam system is linked by cables that run parallel to each other, rather than from the top of one cam to the bottom of the other. This design eliminates cam lean and limb torque, and is further enhanced by a cable brace that engages the riser to aid in the limitation of flex away from the center of the crossbow. The stock of the AX440 also eliminates the rail and utilizes dual carbon guide rods along the entire length of the stock. Combined, all of these features create a free-floating arrow system that minimizes contact, friction and torque along the arrow’s entire path. The result: greater efficiency, accuracy and speed.

MSRP: $2,099.99 | FERADYNE.COM

5. Bear Archery Constrictor Pro

The Constrictor Pro is a proven performer, redesigned for even more power on an extremely compact frame. The Constrictor Pro measures a mere 8.125 inches wide cocked, and roughly 12 inches wide uncocked, making it perfect for hunting in tight quarters. The crossbow is equipped with an ambidextrous top mount quiver that sits on a 360-degree pivot and allows the hunter to position the quiver in any orientation. This ready-to-hunt package includes Illuminated Reticle/Speed Adjustable Scope, three Bear X TrueX arrows, a four-arrow quiver, sling, manual cocking sled and arrow lube/string wax. Available in Stone/Veil Whitetail or Stone/TrueTimber Strata color and camo combinations.

MSRP: $699.99 | beararchery.com

CHECK OUT MORE NEW GEAR FOR 2024:

Top 14 Blinds, Treestands and Targets for 2024

Top 9 Bow Sights, Releases and Rests for 2024

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Top 9 Hunting Arrows for 2024

Top 10 Hunting Bows for 2024

A cousin of mad cow disease that eats holes in the brains of deer could be the tipping point that pushes Kansas to join other states that bar people from baiting the animals with piles of food.

Wildlife commissioners hope restricting the popular practice could slow the spread of chronic wasting disease and curb other deer-related problems, such as crop damage.

In northwest Kansas, biologists estimate at least one-third of 2.5-year-old bucks now have the fatal disease.

But opponents of a feed ban — so far, primarily people with financial interests — are raising heated complaints. That includes feed sellers, rural land brokers and hunting lodge owners.

Some Kansas lodges charge out-of-state hunters upward of $4,000 each for weeklong stays on properties where deer baiting and feeding ensures strong numbers of the country’s most popular game animal.

Lodge owners argue a ban would hurt their businesses and rural communities.

“When an outfitter or a landowner gets a thousand dollars in his pocket from outside, he don’t put it in his pocket,” Kenny Graham, who runs the 23,000-acre CK Outfitters lodge about an hour south of Topeka in Osage City, told commissioners at their June meeting. “He spends it with (a grain) elevator. He spends it to buy gas. He spends it to live on.”

Whitetail Properties Real Estate, which specializes in hunting land, is battling the potential restrictions. So is Hunter Nation, a politically conservative group that includes Kansas Attorney General Kris Kobach on the board of directors.

Whitetail Properties salesperson Todd Bigbee said rules would cause land values to drop, leading to “massive” losses.

“Especially to rural Kansas landowners who sell recreational land and lease hunting rights to others,” he said in an email to the Kansas News Service.

Biologists and veterinarians, though, have won over an increasing number of states to ban the practice of laying out corn, apples, peanuts and other food for deer.

They warn that these unnatural buffets gather deer in close proximity and spread sickness.

The National Deer Association, which promotes hunting and healthy deer populations, shares that concern. It has nothing against baiting and feeding under normal circumstances, but it supports a ban in areas with chronic wasting disease.

“There’s no doubt from the science side that baiting increases disease spread,” said wildlife biologist Kip Adams, the group’s head of conservation. “That’s very, very clear … The vast majority of wildlife professionals agree.”

Feed sellers and others who want to continue baiting in areas with disease aren’t convinced that shutting down feeding makes sense. They note that chronic wasting disease persists in states without legal baiting.

Surveys of Kansas hunters and landowners

Crowding around feed undermines a key evolutionary trait — a kind of deer version of social distancing.

“Maternal family groups actually do a pretty good job of spatially segregating,” North Dakota wildlife veterinarian Charlie Bahnson told Kansas wildlife commissioners at the June meeting. “That tends to all break down when you put artificial feed on the landscape.”

A sick deer standing over a bait pile covers it in pee, poop and saliva. Other deer chowing down at the same spot pick up germs.

They could catch bovine tuberculosis, for example. Or they could swallow the prions that cause the always-fatal chronic wasting disease.

Kansas wildlife officials are revving up a public education campaign. Hunter Nation has launched a counter-campaign.

A ban would make hunting harder for many people, said Kansas lawyer Keith Mark, the group’s founder and president.

If young people can’t get close enough to animals to hit their targets, hunting won’t hold enough appeal to coax kids away from computer games and other entertainment, he said. The U.S. needs to replenish the ranks of its aging hunters.

“Being able to attract deer to a close proximity is certainly better for young hunters — really all hunters,” to kill as many deer as permitted, he said. “Isn’t that what we’re trying to do here?”

“I don’t buy that,” Adams said. “There’s a lot of places (where) kids and new hunters are shooting deer with rifles, shotguns and bows — where they cannot use bait.”

Adams wrote this month that the number of states that allow baiting has fallen from 26 to 22 in the past five years. He expects the number will keep falling as chronic wasting disease spreads.

In Kansas, wildlife biologists estimate based on carcass samples that somewhere between 33% and 48% of 2.5-year-old bucks in northwest Kansas counties now have the disease, which first cropped up in Kansas two decades ago.

They peg the rates at 10-16% in north-central Kansas, 9%-21% in southwestern Kansas, 1%-4% in south-central Kansas and about 1% for eastern Kansas.

Skeptics reject those estimates and want more testing.

Tim Neuman, a wildlife biologist employed by feed and supplement manufacturer Ani-logics Outdoors, argues that banning the use of these products would be “counterproductive” because some landowners would ignore that and carry on. Then more animals would end up congregating at those spots.

“It makes it worse because it concentrates deer even more,” he said, so “there’s only half as much (feed), but there’s still the same amount of deer.”

He urged Kansas to hold off and see if researchers can find preventive treatments.

“We are still in the infancy with the knowledge of chronic wasting disease,” he said.

Many Kansans enjoy increasing their chances of shooting a deer or watching and photographing the creatures by putting out food.

The Kansas Bowhunters Association will remain neutral on potential regulations, because its membership is torn, president Bob McCartney said. The group’s executive council has decided to support whatever decision the state wildlife agency reaches.

In 2020, the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks surveyed hunters and found 54% of respondents would oppose a total ban on bait and mineral supplements that attract game.

Last year, the department commissioned a survey of landowners that found 45% either feed deer on their land or allow someone else to do it.

Still, the state’s wildlife commissioners feel compelled by science to push toward regulation.

“I think the commission would all vote to ban baiting today,” commissioner Troy Sporer said in June. He asked department staff to make clear to the public that the state’s wildlife commissioners want “to ban baiting, in time.”

“They need to know (that) is our intention,” he said.

The seven-person commission guides the department’s actions. Its members are appointed to staggered four-year terms by the governor.

Staff will schedule town hall meetings in coming months. They’re also hoping to convince the public that it’s better to support deer by creating healthy habitats.

Deer benefit when landowners remove invasive trees and restore prairie, for example. The animals forage and hide in the grasses, which help fawns avoid hypothermia.

Landowners can also plant fields of buckwheat, cowpeas and other deer favorites. States consider this less hazardous than laying out food because deer keep their mouths farther away from bodily fluids on the ground and don’t crowd around a pile.

What do other states do?

It’s not clear whether Kansas wildlife commissioners will ultimately vote on a statewide, yearlong ban on baiting and feeding game or some kind of partial limitations.

A dozen Midwest states have various kinds of restrictions on the practices.

Baiting and feeding are terms used differently by various agencies and groups. Some distinguish between the two based on the goals or quality of the food. However, both words refer to setting out food in piles or with a dispenser.

Illinois opted for a statewide ban. In Nebraska, hunters can put out food but can’t shoot deer within 200 yards of it.

North Dakota bans baiting and feeding in areas with confirmed chronic wasting disease.

Bahnson, the North Dakota veterinarian, said officials take flak when they act.

“It generates a lot of pretty strong emotional responses,” he said. “Frankly, it’s not very fun to deal with from an agency standpoint.”

North Dakota lawmakers tried this year to strip the state’s wildlife officials of their ability to limit baiting, but they ultimately failed.

Bahnson said North Dakota hunters generally didn’t bait deer until a few decades ago. It became common at lodges, he said, and popular with bowhunters.

The story of chronic wasting disease

Wild elk started testing positive for chronic wasting disease in the 1980s in Colorado. Today, the disease has reached 30 more states and parts of Canada.

The prion — a kind of deformed protein — infects deer, elk and similar animals, slowly destroying their brains.

No people have gotten sick, but health authorities worry. Human exposure to mad cow disease has killed more than 200 people worldwide since its discovery in the 1990s.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention urges hunters to don impermeable gloves before cutting carcasses. Hunters should extract a sample for a chronic wasting disease test and shouldn’t eat the meat if it tests positive.

Kansas officials found a first case in 2001 in a captive elk southwest of Wichita. Wild animals started testing positive elsewhere in the state starting in 2005.

Since then, the Kansas State Veterinary Diagnostic Lab has confirmed cases in most counties. Western Kansas is a particular hotspot.

But hunting fuels a corner of the economy that often clashes with regulation.

In the book Deerland, writer and hunter Al Cambronne documents the political backlash in Wisconsin from feed mills in the early 2000s.

They won over state lawmakers to undo baiting restrictions that the state had imposed to slow the spread of chronic wasting disease.

One family-run feed mill said it lost more than $85,000 in a single winter during the ban.

Today, baiting is allowed in a few Wisconsin counties, but prohibited in most.

Businessowners in Kansas fear major losses, too.

In Osage County and Coffee County alone, anti-feeding rules would put three people out of business, lodge owner Graham warned Kansas wildlife commissioners.

“We contribute to the economy,” he said. “We care about the habitat.”

Hunter Nation also makes an economic case. It points to data from the Sportsmen’s Alliance, whose membership includes major hunting retailers and ammunition suppliers.

A report commissioned by the group estimates people seeking to hunt deer and other animals forked out more than $500 million on equipment, travel and related services in Kansas in 2020.

The report does not indicate how a ban on baiting and feeding would affect this spending.

Wildlife officials are considering putting a stop to baiting and feeding not just to slow the spread of disease, but also because the practices can lead to extra high deer numbers in some areas.

This can lead, for example, to localized damage to bird and pollinator habitat or complaints from farmers about crop damage.

Biologists are also concerned that corn is the most common deer feed.

If deer eat too much corn, this can give them health conditions. Yet the animals can’t turn down the starches in it, said Levi Jaster, a biologist and big game coordinator at the wildlife department. It’s the cervid version of potato chips.

“I like potato chips,” he said. “Rarely do I open a bag and eat (just) one … even though I know they’re bad for me.”

Critics of the agency shoot back that corn is so ubiquitous on Kansas farmland that the animals will eat plenty of it no matter what.

Celia Llopis-Jepsen is the environment reporter for the Kansas News Service. You can follow her on Twitter @celia_LJ or email her at celia (at) kcur (dot) org.

The Kansas News Service is a collaboration of KCUR, Kansas Public Radio, KMUW and High Plains Public Radio focused on health, the social determinants of health and their connection to public policy.

Kansas News Service stories and photos may be republished by news media at no cost with proper attribution and a link to ksnewsservice.org.

ModelDraw WeightStrokeVelocitySuggested Arrow LengthCrossbow Length / Weight Parker StingRay Check price on Amazon.com 100-125 lbs.11″135-150 FPS Crossbow Academy: ballistics, sighting, tuning20″34.25″ / 7.5 lbs.

What Comes in the Box?

Welcome to our review of the Parker StingRay bowfishing crossbow. Each package delivered by Parker includes the following items:

• The Parker Stingray crossbow
• Open sight
• Assembly hardware and tools
• AMS Retriever Pro Bowfishing Reel
• 200 feet of Hi-Vis Braided Dacron Line
• 2 AMS Safety Slide kits
• 1 Bowfishing Arrow
• Muzzy Gator Getter 1600-gr broadhead
• Owner’s manual
• Warranty card

Crossbow Assembly

Putting the StingRay together is amazingly simple for such a complex hunting package. The riser, or what Parker calls the front-end assembly, attaches to the stock once you’ve installed the cable slide. If your Stingray comes with a scope, it will be premounted for you, so there is no work to be done to get the scope onto the crossbow. Once you’ve attached the riser to the stock, you attach the AMS Retriever Pro Bowfishing Reel, which includes an integrated arrow quiver for storing your bowfishing arrow.

After putting your bow together, you should set the draw weight to whatever you want it to be, between 100# and 125#. The beauty of this design is that you don’t need any special tools or a bow press to set the draw weight. Once the assembly and tuning is complete, you’re ready to move on to sighting in your crossbow.

Accuracy And Power

Whether you have the open sight or the 1X scope with your x-bow, you’ll want to sight in your bow before you hit the water. I was able to have my open sights fine-tuned within a couple of shots, and then I tested the accuracy of the Stingray. The Stingray delivers arrows between 135fps and 150fps, depending on the draw weight you have set. Mine is set to the maximum 125 pounds, so the 1600-gr bowfishing arrow was hitting the target at 150 fps with almost 80 ft. lbs. of kinetic energy.

From 25 yards, I was able to maintain a 1/2″ grouping with this crossbow, and held the same grouping from 35 yards. From 50 yards, I could hold a pattern just 1-1/2” in diameter, which is more than accurate enough for serious bowfishing. With the Stingray sighted in and tested, I was ready to hit the water.

Will Hunters Enjoy the Parker Stingray?

This x-bow is designed for bowfishing, so you won’t take this up against a deer. With that said, it has the stopping power for a deer, but the speed of the arrows is probably too slow to account for the tendency of deer to string jump. I didn’t even try this bow land hunting, using it instead for what it was designed for—bowfishing.

For fishing purposes, this is an excellent crossbow. You can easily penetrate and nab the largest fish, whether you’re in fresh water or salt water. The reel works flawlessly, and the included 200 feet of high visibility line makes it easy to see where your arrow has gone. An illuminated nock will also help tremendously.

What was really exciting about this crossbow was the inclusion of the Muzzy Gator Getter arrow point. I had the good fortune of getting in on an alligator hunt, and chose the Stingray as my tool of choice for hunting gator. During my gator hunt, I was able to fill my limit of gator easily, with the Stingray performing exactly as I expected it to on this once-in-a-lifetime hunting opportunity.

Cocking The Stingray

The Stingray has an adjustable draw weight of 100 lbs. to 125 lbs., and the adjustment can be made without any special tools or a bow press. For some, this light draw weight might mean hand-cocking the crossbow, but I definitely would not recommend this. While it’s easy enough to draw by hand, using a rope cocking device makes your draw much more even and consistent, helping your accuracy considerably. Unfortunately, Parker does not include a rope cocking device with the Stingray, so I would recommend picking one up at your local archery shop when you get your Stingray.

The Crossbow Scope

Parker delivers this crossbow with either an open sight or a 1X scope. I chose the open sight, but I’ve also used the 1X scope in the past. This scope is very good quality, with coated optics for fog-resistance, and excellent light gathering capabilities for use in dark swampy areas. It sights in easily and quickly, and holds true almost indefinitely.

Bolts

Your purchase of the Parker Stingray will net you one bowfishing arrow, which many will say is all that you need. That’s probably true, because the hassle of switching your retrieval line from one arrow to another is more trouble than just pulling your arrow back in and reusing it, but you may want to invest in additional arrows in case yours becomes damaged. Parker recommends 1600-grain arrows for use with the Stingray, and attempting to use a lighter arrow than that could result in some serious problems and injuries for you and your crossbow.

Safety and Design

The Stingray is designed with boat fishing in mind, so it is small and compact. It is also lightweight, and almost perfectly balanced. It features a G2 Bull-Pup trigger with an auto-engaging ambidextrous safety and auto-engaging anti-dry fire mechanism, both of which operate reliably for each and every shot. The vented forearm’s safety finger flange is perfectly sized and positioned to keep you safe when firing your x-bow.

The AMS Retriever Pro bowfishing reel that comes with the Stingray is set up with a right-side crank, so if you are left-handed you may struggle with the retriever reel. It works perfectly, though, and serves wonderfully for reeling in that big catch when you nail it.

Warranty

All Parker crossbows are covered by a 5-year limited warranty, and Parker’s customer service representatives are easy to work with, friendly, and knowledgeable. Make sure to register your warranty within 15 days of your purchase, though, or your warranty may not be valid.

What Crossbow Case Fits the Parker StingRay?

If you use a smaller scope, the Carbon Express Deluxe Case is a nice soft carrycase for $66. If your StingRay is equipped with a bigger scope, opt for the Allen Company case. It is a $30, soft carrycase which offers more space.

Crossbow Review – Summary

Thanks for reading my review of the Parker Stingray. This is an exciting crossbow with excellent potential for hunting alligators and use in bowfishing. If you want to get involved in bowfishing, but would rather use a crossbow than a bow, the Stingray is the crossbow for you. Take a look at today’s amazon.com price on this crossbow and check out our top 10 crossbows rankings for more.

Answer this honestly…How many of you have had a conversation with a friend where one of these talking points came up?

• Dude, My Black Flash camera is visible!
• I can see my No Glow camera flash! I know it’s spooking deer!
• I don’t know what’s wrong, I was just looking through some trail camera photos and it looks like I can see the flash from my Black out camera! I have two of them out there?

Over the years, we’ve seen this topic come up on social media over and over. Some folks immediately understand what is going on, others are baffled.

If you can see the flash from a Black Flash camera what the heck is going on? All of this boils down to two scenarios…. You don’t really have a no glow camera OR there are multiple cameras in one area and one camera is capturing another camera’s flash at night.

940NM Wavelengths To Humans and Whitetails

No Glow, Black Flash, Invisible Flash, Black Out are all trail camera terms referring to the same exact thing… Any trail camera flash unit utilizing a 940nm LED, which in the Electromagnetic Spectrum is beyond the UV Spectrum and invisible to the human eye. But what about whitetails?

When you think about how ungulates see, in what colors, and how those colors react to UV it becomes pretty damn interesting. Ungulates have dichromatic vision, they see yellow and blue colors with everything else being black/white and gray. Blue colors fall between 430-520nm wavelengths and yellow falls between 565-580nm wavelengths. So theoretically, if your trail camera is not putting out light between those spectrums, deer are not seeing it OR at least not in the same color as we see it. Now, lets pull it back to trail cameras.

Types of Flash

You have 3 categories of flash types in trail cameras, WHITE,RED, and BLACK.

White Flash trail cameras give you an actual flash. Hobbyist folks seem to really gravitate towards these types of cameras because they put out color night images. This type of light falls into the lower range of the UV Spectrum at approx 300nm.

Red Flash also called IR trail cameras include any bulb that puts out light at wavelengths between approx 625nm up to 750nm. At the bottom end light is visible at the upper end it is less noticeable.

Black Flash, aka invisible flash, no glow, black out, or whatever else you want to call it, also falls into the IR spectrum but at the upper end with a wavelength of 940nm. General science tells us that mammals cannot see light at this wavelength. Really, only amphibians and reptiles can see this type of light.

IR and Black Flash cameras have added HW to capture light at these wavelengths. This is the purpose of the cameras IR filter OR the camera could have a dedicated night sensor and lens making it a dual lens camera.

Why Can You See It?

Scenario 1: If you can see the flash with your naked eye, you certainly don’t have a 940nm flash unit. Don’t get this confused with a faint red glow before the actual flash. At times, mainly when the LEDs first get power they will likely emit some light below the 940nm range. This happens well before the flash actually goes off.

Scenario 2: You have two cameras setup in some what close proximity to one another. One camera is picking up the other’s flash. The first time it happens it’s kinda of weird but when you step back and think how trail cameras work with specific flash units and IR filters it makes a whole lot of sense.

If you find yourself in either scenario don’t panic, the wool hasn’t been pulled over your eyes. What you are seeing is completely normal in the trail camera world, it just doesn’t happen all that often because there’s not many folks running cameras on top of one another. With proper setups and going through our “spook proof equation” it’s unlikely you are actually spooking whitetails with your trail cameras.

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Yellow perch are a popular gamefish in their native range in parts of the Midwest and Canada, as well a wider area of North America where they now thrive.

Why not? Perch are incredibly tasty and at times can be caught in huge numbers … if you know what you’re doing.

One of the most important things you’ll need to know to catch lots of fillet-worthy perch is what to put on the hook.

This article reveals dozens of the best baits for perch we know, which at times can result in excellent catches. Some will be obvious, like the ever-effective minnows and worms. Some are a little unusual.

And a few will surprise the heck out of you but can really get the job done.

Many of these bait types can be used all year, whether under the summer sun when you might be fishing deeper water or in the dead of winter while ice fishing.

To put this article together, we consulted with Bill Janowich. Simply put, Janowich has been perfecting his fish-catching techniques longer than I’ve been alive.

“I’ve been perch fishing for over 70 years, so I’ve seen a thing or two,” said Janowich, who lives in Ohio near Lake Erie. His favorite perch bait on that Great Lake is a 2-inch shiner minnow.

“However, there are many other fisheries in the world, and many different methods of catching perch,” he told us. “Sometimes, necessity is the mother of invention.”

We already have a complete guide to yellow perch fishing on this website.

This article complements the fishing guide by going into more depth on the many baits that will have you catching these fish 12 months out of the year, whether you’re fishing them under the blazing summer sun or through the winter ice.

A variety of baits also can be used in conjunction with Janowich’s own perch-fishing kit.

“I have personally used most of these baits myself,” he said. “Live bait is usually more effective than artificial lures.”

To help you keep them all straight, we’ll divide the types of baits into broad categories.

Don’t see your secret bait for catching yellow perch? Send us a comment below.

Fishy Baits

While the smaller perch feed primarily on insects and crustaceans, the big yellow perch you really want to catch love nothing better than a meal-sized minnow or cut bait.

Often the best minnow or cut baits to use are those that live in the water where you are fishing, because that’s what the perch are already eating.

One note here is that live fish aren’t always legal baits, so check the regulations where you will fish to be sure it’s allowed. In some waters or entire states, live fish and other aquatic creatures aren’t permitted because their use can result in invasive species.

Here are some great examples of using fish as bait to catch yellow perch.

Live Minnows and Other Swimmers

Various types of shiners, freshwater shad, and other small fish are incredibly effective yellow perch baits when fished live right near the bottom.

While many perch anglers prefer small minnows, Janowich likes to fish minnows in the 2- or even 3-inch size range. While that seems big for perches’ small mouths, perch love a nice meal and larger perch will be drawn to larger baits.

In fact, Janowich caught the 14.5-inch jumbo perch pictured above on a 3-inch emerald shiner. It was certified as an “outstanding catch” in Ohio and “fought like a northern pike,” he said.

If smaller 1-inch baits are all you can get, they will work well but also will result in catching some small yellow perch, but bigger ones also will take it.

The following are some minnow and other aquatic baits that might work well, given their availability and legality where you are fishing. Other local options may also be effective.

Shiners

This is a common family of minnows with hundreds of types, and they are among the best live bait you can get.

For example, emerald and spottail shiners are native to the Great Lakes, where shiners are Janowich’s first choice for perch bait. Emerald shiners are more common, but those spot-tails can be excellent if you can find them.

Shiner numbers are down in some areas of the Great Lakes, so catching them can be more difficult.

Bait shops also will sell other small bait fish, such as golden shiners and fathead minnows. Minnow prices at bait stores have gone up in recent years, but they are still worth seeking out, Janowich said.

Dead minnows, including commercially brined or home-salted varieties, aren’t as good as the live variety and at times can be mushy, but these still can be among the best bait alternatives if live minnows aren’t available, Janowich added.

Shad (various types)

Depending on where you are, there may be some freshwater shad available. Gizzard shad are fairly common in the Upper Midwest, and thread fin shad are another variety that might be available where you are.

Herring

These are in the same big family as shad and are similarly effective bait where you can obtain them.

Mosquito fish

Often can be caught in shallow water in lakes and ponds, or might be sold locally.

Suckers

There are a wide variety of suckers across the U.S., and if they co-exist with yellow perch, the small ones will be on the perch’s menu.

Gobies

These are destructive invasive species in many waters including the Great Lakes. Turn the tables when you catch one and turn them into bait.

Crayfish

Live or dead, the soft-shelled ones are especially good perch bait.

Tadpoles

Or pollywogs or whatever you call them, the larval stage of amphibians (often frogs) make excellent bait fished live. They can be found and netted in abundance at certain times of the year, often in the spring.

Freshwater Eels

Smaller eels are excellent perch baits, if you can get them. They are favorite forage for finny fishes and also have lots of action like leeches or lively worms.

Cut Baits

The above types of fish can be used dead, either whole or as cut baits.

Simply fillet larger fish and cut them into about 1-inch long strips of about a quarter inch wide, keeping the skin on to help hold your bait to the hook.

Generally speaking, the best cut baits use fish that are available in the waters where you are fishing.

Some cut bait types to consider include:

Yellow Perch

That’s right. Yellow perch are cannibals and will eat their own. Use the first one (or maybe the first smaller one) for bait to catch more in its own school.

Catch that first perch, especially a smaller one you don’t mind sacrificing, and fillet it out. Cut the fillet into strips that are 1 inch long and about a quarter inch wide, in a pennant shape and rig it up to your hook.

Other types of fish fillets also will often work.

Bluegill

These panfish may be fished as cut baits as described for perch, or if you can catch them small enough, they also can be great live baits for perch.

Bluegill have a naturally sweet meat, and as we’ll discuss more further down in this article, perch love sweets. (Woe is the life of a bluegill, as the bigger ones not only are good eating for humans but make excellent bait for larger fish including giant flathead catfish.)

Crappie

Considered in a similar orbit with yellow perch for their fine eating, crappie cut baits (or very small live crappie) are also a favorite on the perch diet.

White Bass

These are usually larger than yellow perch, but they can be used both for cut baits or, if you catch a very small one, as a live bait for perch.

White Perch

These are often predators of yellow perch, but if you catch a smaller one you can turn the tide and turn it into cut bait or use as a live bait.

Steelhead and Other Trout

While steelhead and their trout cousins are generally too large to use whole, they can be used as cut baits, including using the intestines, fins and eyes (see more on those below).

Fish Tails

That’s right, if you want your bait to look like a fish, start with a fish fin.

Simply cut off a piece of the tail fin, hook it up and drop it down to where the perch are. They’ll pretty much fight to get to it first. And that’s no fish tale (but it is a fish tail).

Yellow perch and some of the other species mentioned above work great for this.

Fish Intestines

“This is an old Canadian charter technique. Catch a fish, cut it open, cut out the intestine, cut it into 3 inch strips and attach to your hook. They last forever and are an excellent bait for all kind of fis,” Janowich said. We’ll take his word for it!

Fish Eyes

Fish eyes, and especially perch eyes, are a tasty offering if you’re a perch.

“Best thing is they’re free and present a ‘good-looking’ choice (sorry, couldn’t resist),” Janowich said.

Worms, Larvae and Other Crawlers

This category covers all sorts of critters in the worm and insect families that fish find irresistible.

Earthworms

The old reliable worm is among the top baits for yellow perch. For one, they simply work. Also, it’s hard to beat their availability, whether from your garden or the bait shop, they are easy to get for a day of fishing.

Nightcrawlers

Buy them at the store or, in some areas, catch them sticking out of their holes at night or hiding out under a piece of wood.

Also known as Canadian nightcrawlers, lob worms and dew worms, these are a premium bait for perch and other game fish.

They can be used whole or cut into pieces, depending on your needs.

There also are African and European nightcrawlers primarily available by purchasing, but the more common North American version is all you really need.

Red worms

Have a garden compost bin? You probably have these small worms, also known as red wigglers. You also can purchase them directly for bait or to start a colony.

They are a little challenging to hook up, but their active wiggling on the hook is nearly impossible for a perch to pass up.

Garden Worms

Whatever you can dig up in the yard or find under a rock at the lake will probably get the job done.

Some types don’t hold on a hook as well as others.

Larval Baits

Mealworms

These yellow critters are beetle larvae and make excellent perch, panfish and even trout bait.

You likely can buy them at a bait shop or pet store (they are sold as food for reptiles, aquarium fish and other pets). They also are fairly easy to raise at home, as I used to do. (Pro tip: the beetles are escape artists, so make sure you have a secure container.)

You’ll use smaller hooks with mealworms than you will with some baits, due to their size.

Waxworms

These are the larvae of a wax moth. Like mealworms, look for them both in bait and pet shops.

Ice fishermen often tip their lure hooks with these or similar live baits for added attraction.

Maggots

Yes, those larvae of the pesky house fly or similar insects. Bait suppliers will carry them in some areas because they are excellent for perch and several other types of game fish, from panfish to kokanee salmon.

Squats and pinkies are generally smaller maggots from other fly species and also work for perch bait. The “caster” form of a maggot, one that is turning into a pupae, also will do the job.

Leeches

These relatives of the earthworm come many species of their own, but leeches can be broadly categorized by blood-sucking and non-blood-sucking.

If you have a choice at the bait shop or while catching your own, Janowich highly recommends the non-bloodsucking variety, and not just because you don’t want them turning the tables and making you the bait.

The non-bloodsuckers feed on lots of things perch eat, which provides a more appetizing scent from the leech.

Janowich likes to hook them right on the sucker end to allow the rest of the leech to wriggle and writhe freely in the water. Perch won’t resist it.

Grasshoppers

Switching to baits found on land, grasshoppers are fantastic baits for perch as well as bluegill, trout and other fish that commonly eat insects.

Once the hoppers come out each year, they should be easy to net in grassy fields and similar areas.

On the hook, they wiggle enticingly, and perch can’t resist.

Crickets

Fish them like a grasshopper, with very similar results.

Compared to grasshoppers, crickets are more likely to be sold in bait shops and pet stores and might be available for longer periods.

But they are a little softer on the hook.

Imitation Baits

This section is about artificial baits made to look much like the real thing, and there are lots of options here because yellow perch will bite plenty of different things.

While purists like Janowich will nearly always stick with the real thing (and the real thing really works), imitation baits have their place.

Some anglers simply don’t want to fuss with live baits or baits that will spoil quickly. Having a jar or plastic bag full of artificial bait already in your tackle box has its appeal.

Note that I’m most experienced with the Berkley line of imitation baits, but try out the ones that work for you.

Artificial Minnows

Hate messing with the real thing … or have trouble finding them to catch or buy?

Artificial minnows along the lines of Berkley’s Gulp! minnows will often do the job, even if not quite as well as an actual live minnow.

We’ve seen some ads for products such as Magic Emerald Shine Minnows that might work similarly.

Artificial Worms

Berkley has a variety of products that fall under the category of fake worms, including PowerBait and Gulp! lines of earthworms, nightcrawlers and angle worms in natural colors as well as some brightly hued options among artificials.

But you certainly don’t have to limit yourself to Berkley products, especially in this category, as lots of companies make soft plastics in worm form.

Try scented artificial worms for increased catches.

Artificial Mealworms

Berkley’s Power Honey Worm is a good imitation bait closely resembling a mealworm, if you like to fish with smaller baits but can’t get the real wiggly kind.

Artificial Maggots

Grossed out by real maggots? Or maybe just don’t have them handy? A jar of Berkley Gulp! maggots can fill that need.

These are a very small bait and often used to tip the hook on a small lure such as spoon, spinner or jig for yellow perch as well as other game fish (including kokanee salmon where I live).

You’ll find some cheaper brands online as well, but we don’t have experience with them.

Artificial Waxworms

Not everyone makes this type as they are somewhat similar to mealworm and maggot baits, but Lunkerhunt has a few varieties that are available through various retailers.

Crappie Nibbles

These tiny pre-formed dough baits work great on the tips of lures.

How do we know? When we’re crappie fishing and put these on the tip of the jig hook, if there are yellow perch in the neighborhood, they won’t stay off the hook.

Even if you’re only after perch, try tipping the hook of a small jig with a Crappie Nibble and fishing it in schools of perch.

A few other companies make similar products as well.

From the Grocery Store

These fishing baits aren’t really intended as such, but they definitely will catch yellow perch. Fresh out of worms or minnows? Stop by the supermarket on your way to the lake.

Meat and Seafood

Hot Dogs

That’s right, “tube steaks” aren’t just for baseball games and campfires. Hot dogs will catch yellow perch in addition to some other game fish (catfish, anyone?). Tear or cut them into bait-sized pieces.

Some anglers suggest that the beef hot dogs, while popular at the ol’ ballgame, are less attractive to perch than those made of chicken or turkey, Janowich said.

Also consider, “smokeys” type of franks are tougher on the hook and produce even more oily scent to attract fish.

Bacon

It’s not just what brings you to breakfast, it’ll bring perch to your fishing hook. Use pieces of bacon raw for best results, as the oily scent it sends out will get the sleepiest perch up and at ‘em. It also will stay put on your hook longer.

Chicken Liver

These little organ meats are sold both in grocery stores and some bait shops. Yes, they are often thought of as catfish bait, but their scent will bring in the perch and other types of fish as well.

Shrimp and Prawns

Though typically saltwater species are sold for human consumption, shrimp and prawns are excellent bait for quite a few freshwater fish, including perch.

Cut them into fish-sized pieces, but leave the shell unpeeled when possible, as they’ll stay on the hook better if stabbed through the tough shell.

Anchovies

If you think of anchovies only as a pizza topping or perhaps as bait for larger fish like catfish and salmon, you might be missing the boat. Or at least the perch.

Cut these oily saltwater baitfish into pieces and the perch will lining up for a salty bite.

Sardines

You know those jokes about being packed together like sardines?

Well, these oily fish sold in tins have tons fish-attracting scent that a school of yellow perch won’t ignore. These are typically labeled Pacific wild caught.

On Other Store Aisles

Candy

That’s right, just like me, perch have a sweet tooth.

While it won’t last long if you hook a Hershey’s chocolate bar square on your hook, look for chewier textures that are more likely to last in the water.

Our suggestion: Try a candy gummy bear or other shape and you’re likely to land some sweet-loving perch. Heck, there are even gummy worms, so it was made to be!

Chewing Gum

What’s even tougher than a gummy candy? How about chewing gum.

Janowich suggests you chew the gum yourself just a minute to get it the right consistency, but leave most of the flavor in the gum before hooking on a piece.

The sweetness will attract the fish, and the rubbery texture will help keep it on your hook.

Golden Raisins

The light-colored types come in various colors and will catch the fish’s attention better than your standard black raisins.

Hook them in place and they will swell up a bit on the hook while releasing a sweet scent that appeals to perch.

Sweet Corn

Buy a small can of sweet corn. The kernels are sweet, brightly colored and tough enough to stay on the hook while attracting yellow perch.

Garlic

Not a sweet or a meat, but garlic is strongly scented and for whatever reason, fish like it. Why do you think so many artificial baits are scented with it? Try the real thing if you run out of your favorite standard bait.

The Weird

Shoe Laces

Uh-huh. You’ll have to cut them up, but make them look like a worm or a leech on the hook and suddenly a day on the boat when you left the bait at home is a day you’ll probably catch a perch or two.

And it really only has to work once, because you’ve already learned that fish fillets, guts and even eyes of that first catch will bring fish to your hook.

Rawhide

Even better than your typical shoe laces is rawhide, like the ones you tie up your boots with or other types of rawhide.

Strips of rawhide not only look like a tasty worm or eel, rawhide won’t rip off your hook easily. So, cowboy up and catch some perch!

Cigarette Butts

This is the first time on this website that we’ve suggested anglers hook on a piece of trash, but you’d be amazed at how well it can work at times. And they really stay on the hook.

“They stay on the hook for a long time and have been known to produce large quantities of perch,” Janowich told us. “I learned this trick by accident while on a fishing trip to Georgian Bay in Canada. For giggles, I baited one on a hook in shallow, weedy water and the perch went crazy.”

Acknowledgements

Northern Ohio resident Bill Janowich contributed many of the yellow perch fishing bait ideas in this article. Janowich is a life-long perch fisherman and has developed a perch-fishing kit he sells online at catchperch.com.

Do you have a favorite yellow perch bait we haven’t covered in this article? Leaving a comment below gives us the permission to add it to this article and/or publish it elsewhere. Comments must be approved. Leave a name as you would like it to be published and an email we can use to contact you if necessary. Your email address won’t ever be published.

Cover photo courtesy of grandviewoutdoors.com

If you hunt whitetails, it should be no secret to you that whitetails communicate through scent they leave behind. Whether detecting danger, bucks seeking a breeding doe or a doe locating a hiding fawn, whitetail deer use scent for much of their survival and social interaction. Scraping behavior of whitetails, is one of the CHIEF ways whitetail bucks leave scent behind throughout the year.

Bucks work scrape’s overhanging branches, called a licking branch, throughout the year, often times more than they work the scrape itself. But their most aggressive scraping of these areas occur from October to December when testosterone levels are highest. When a whitetail buck makes a scrape he does so where there is an attractive branch hanging along a roadway, at the edge of a field, on a well-worn trail, or in a random area he’s walking through. In most cases a buck begins the scraping process by rubbing his forehead, preorbital, and nasal glands on the branch and in some cases will actually lick and chew on the overhanging branch. Once done, most bucks will paw the leaves and other debris from the ground under the branch, then urinate into the pawed-out earth.

Photo Courtesy of americanhunter.org

The process usually takes less than two minutes. During this time, however, a buck will leave liberal amounts of scent behind. Scraping, like rubbing, allows a buck to make his presence known. It’s a calling card of sorts; a post on a whitetail bulletin board. Research suggests that scraping is primarily a buck activity. Does have been known to work a scrape from time to time but they most frequently work the licking branch above the scrape. Bucks almost always work both.

Scrapes can be broken down into 3 different categories, though the names or classification of these are often debated. The are Boundary, Secondary and Primary Scrapes.

Boundary scrapes: Boundary scrapes are made by traveling bucks moving through his territory. These scrapes will show up along field edges, fence rows and roads that aren’t too busy.

Secondary scrapes: Secondary scrapes are made my bucks as more of an impulse. These are far more random and a result of the buck “feeling the need” to make a scrape. Call it impulse, hormones or whatever you’d like but these scrapes are less frequent, spiritic and typically not a good target for hunting over.

Primary scrapes: These are the scrapes that hunters need to target. These scrapes are the epitome of whitetail scrapes, with some having the potential of becoming very attractive to whitetail bucks. These scrapes can be found in strategic locations—inside corners of agriculture fields, ridge lines, pinch points and especially along well-worn trails between bedding and feeding areas during the rut. Find these primary scrapes and hang a stand!

Bucks work licking branches 365 days to leave their scent, scraping behavior peaks during the 30 day window leading up to peak rut, especially during the last 10 days. Once breeding kicks in scraping behavior drops off drastically. Scraping will continue during the post rut but at a significantly lower rate than occurs leading up to that point.