Foxes and coyotes are widely distributed throughout North America. Interactions between these species are common, but the two mostly ignore each other in the wild.

However, a carcass can easily change the social dynamics and turn these animals from tolerant towards each other to aggressive.

Coyotes are about twice as large in size and three times heavier than foxes. They are also faster, reaching speeds up to 43 miles per hour vs. 30 miles per hour for red foxes. Foxes have a bite force of around 307 PSI, whereas coyotes bite with a strength of 727 PSI. In a one-on-one fight, the fox wouldn’t stand a chance.

The table below shows a quick comparison between coyote vs. fox*:

*Data in the table was sourced from research papers, scientific journals, magazines, and other official sources. For comparison purposes, we considered the physical, behavioral, and strength factors of red foxes, which are the most common fox species in North America. Strength facts and characteristics may vary for gray or arctic foxes.

Strike forces were calculated by multiplying the top speed for each species by the top weight mentioned in the table.

14 Differences Between Fox Vs. Coyote

1. Classification

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family. However, they are rather distant relatives.

While they are both Canidae, red foxes belong to the genus Vulpes (true foxes) and Vulpes vulpes species. They are further divided into 45 subspecies distributed all over the world, with the exception of some territories such as Tasmania.

Coyotes are members of the genus Canis, the same as domestic dogs, wolves, and dingoes. The species – Canis latrans – is divided into at least 19 subspecies which are all distributed across Northern and Central America.

Both red foxes and coyotes are top carnivores in some ecosystems. In shared habitats, coyotes don’t actively hunt or eat foxes but they do have the potential to kill them.

2. Size

Body Length

The most visible difference between red foxes and coyotes – fur color aside – is the size. Foxes are about two times smaller than coyotes, even though larger fox males can grow larger than coyote females.

On average, red foxes reach body lengths between 1.8 and 2.8 feet. Coyotes grow between 2.6 and 3 feet in length. However, some eastern coyote males can be larger, with lengths reaching 4.5 feet in some cases.

If estimating the size could be tricky from afar, the coat color can help tell whether the animal is a fox or coyote.

Red foxes have a reddish brown coat darker on the legs and tail and with white undersides. Coyotes’ predominant color is light gray and red interspersed with black and white. The legs and undersides are whitish.

Both animals have bushy tails, but the coyote tail is mostly dark gray in color whereas a red fox’s tail is a dark reddish brown.

Height

Another crucial difference between coyotes and foxes is their height – coyotes are about eight inches taller than foxes.

On average, they reach a shoulder height of 24 inches. Red foxes, on the other hand, rarely exceed 16 inches in height.

The height difference, together with the length and fur color, can help tell the difference between the two species when spotting them in the wild.

3. Skull Size (Length)

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family, and their skulls are very similar in shape. The most noticeable difference is the size.

Coyote skulls are about two inches longer than fox skulls. Specifically, coyote skulls are about eight inches long, whereas fox skulls are about six inches long.

The skulls of both animals have an elongated shape with a large braincase and elongated snouts.

The dental formula is also identical. Both coyotes and red foxes have 40 teeth in total, 20 on the upper jaw and 20 on the lower one.

Their dental formula is I.C.P.M (incisors, canines, premolars, and molars) 3.1.4.2/3.1.4.2 for each side of their jaws.

4. Scat Size

Another similarity between foxes and coyotes is the shape and overall appearance of their droppings.

Both species have dark brown scat, more or less cylindrical, and that mainly contains fur, tiny bones, feathers, seeds, and berries.

Foxes and coyotes living in urban areas may have lighter-colored droppings that can contain kitchen scrap traces.

Coyote scat can vary in length from about four to seven inches and is about 0.5 to 1-inch thick. Red fox scat is about two to three inches long and up to 0.5 inches thick.

4. Weight

Weight is an important asset in the animal world. The heavier an animal is, the greater the strike force it can generate.

And even if most animals use their bite to fight off an opponent, being able to make the opponent lose balance by slamming into it is a huge advantage.

With coyotes being about two times the size of red foxes, it doesn’t come as a surprise that they are also heavier.

Typically, coyotes weigh between 20 and 50 pounds. Red foxes are a lot lighter, with weights between 10 and 18 pounds.

5. Paw Size

Another unsurprising fact is the larger paws coyotes have compared to red foxes.

According to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, coyotes have a paw size of about 2” by 2.5”. Red fox paws are about 1.5” by 2” in size.

However, the size is not the only factor that could help you identify canid tracks.

Most canids have oval paws with the second and third toes of their front paws pointing away from each other.

In the case of coyotes, the second and third toe are closer together; they both point forward and the claws are oriented toward each other.

This trait makes it easy to tell coyote tracks apart from red foxes, but also wolves and dogs.

6. Speed

Another point in favor of coyotes is the speed: these canids can reach sprinting speeds up to 43 miles per hour.

Red foxes can run at a max of 30 miles per hour, and only for short distances. Their normal running speed is even slower.

Similar to foxes, coyotes can only run at top speed for short distances. However, they are still faster than foxes even when running at normal speed.

7. Strike Force

While the strike force in mammals is seldom measured, this value is easy to calculate by multiplying the speed by weight.

According to these factors, the strike force can be different each time the animal strikes. However, for comparison purposes, we considered the top speed of each species and the top weight coyotes and foxes can reach.

Based on these values, foxes can strike with a force up to 540 lb.-ft./s which is the equivalent of about 16.7 pounds of force.

However, coyotes can strike with up to 2,150 lb.-ft./s, or 66.8 pounds of force. This makes coyotes four times stronger than red foxes.

8. Jumping Abilities

Coyotes, much like red foxes and other canids, are not considered good climbers. However, they can jump – even if their jumping performance is inferior to that of foxes.

In fact, coyotes can jump about three feet up. Despite their smaller size, red foxes can easily jump over obstacles standing up to six feet tall.

While this is the only point in favor of foxes, it might be just what they need to get to safety if they can jump over a fence or up a tree where coyotes can’t reach them.

Climbing-wise, it should also be said that even though they are not considered good climbers, both red foxes and coyotes can climb trees as long as they can reach branches with a smoother incline and that don’t require the use of claws to grip onto the bark.

9. Bite Force

As explained, red foxes are better jumpers and climbers than coyotes. Their advantages end there, though.

As far as bite force is concerned, coyotes are stronger than foxes. In fact, they can exert a bite force of about 727 PSI. A red fox’s bite is about two times weaker, of only 307 PSI.

Both mammals have bites strong enough to kill prey and tear the flesh off bones. To put things into perspective, humans have a bite force of only 162 PSI.

If it would come to a fight between the two canid species, though, coyotes would have a clear advantage.

Despite this, an interesting fact to observe is that red foxes actually have stronger jaws than coyotes when measured pound-per-pound.

The bite force quotient (BFQ) is a measurement scientists use to estimate the bite force of various animals based on their body mass.

In a study on bite forces of various species of mammals, scientists found that red foxes have a BFQ of 90, whereas that of coyotes is only 88.

10. Behavior

Foxes may have a higher bite force quotient than coyotes, and they might be more agile climbers, however, that might not be enough when it comes to a fight.

If strength is in numbers, coyotes have all the odds in their favor.

In fact, while they have a solitary behavior when foraging, coyotes are actually social animals that live in packs.

Packs typically consist of family units – coyotes are monogamous – but unrelated coyotes could sometimes be accepted in a pack. Despite their social structure, coyotes are not known to defend their territory except for the denning season.

Unlike coyotes, red foxes are solitary animals. Females can sometimes live in groups, but this usually happens if they are all mated to the same male.

In fact, female red foxes are typically monogamous. Most males are monogamous too, but some may also seek other partners.

Apart from these circumstances, groups are mostly formed by females and their dependent or unmated offspring.

11. Diet

Coyotes and red foxes are considered omnivores, even though their primary diet consists of meat, and they can compete for resources.

Red foxes usually go after small prey, such as rodents, rabbits, and even birds and reptiles. They also eat insects and arthropods.

Foxes also eat eggs, fruits, berries, and other plant materials. When living near human settlements, they could also take advantage of kitchen refuse.

Coyotes have similar preferences. They go after small mammals, reptiles, insects, and other invertebrates.

As opportunistic mammals, coyotes take advantage of the proximity to human settlements and food scraps. Sometimes, coyotes may also hunt together and take down large prey.

Both coyotes and foxes also feed on carcasses and carrion, when they come across them.

12. Geographic Range

Red foxes are a common and invasive species present in most regions across the globe. The species is native to Eurasia and North America, but it is now found in the southern hemisphere as well.

For instance, red foxes introduced in Australia became an invasive species that is now found in all Australian territories, except for Tasmania. They are also found in South America in countries including Chile and Argentina.

Coyotes are only found in North and Central America, their geographic range spanning from Canada all the way south to Mexico.

Like red foxes, coyotes are considered an invasive species that is known to have expanded its original range over the years.

13. Habitat

Coyotes generally prefer open areas, such as prairies, grasslands, and deserts. Nonetheless, they are also found in open forest areas, urban parks, and suburban areas.

Red foxes prefer semi-open areas, such as the edge of forests and brushlands. They also inhabit prairies, grasslands, and urban and rural areas.

As one can imagine, it is common for coyotes and red foxes in North and Central America to share the same habitat.

Who Would Win A Fight?

Coyotes are larger and stronger than foxes, and when these two species come together in the wild, the former is considered the apex predator.

Yet, coyotes don’t actively hunt foxes. They typically tolerate them, unless a fox comes too close to a coyote’s food. In this case, coyotes are known to kill foxes.

Considering the size and strength differences, as well as the fact that coyotes sometimes hunt and eat in packs, a red fox has no chance of winning the fight. Its only chance would be to get to safety by jumping over a fence tall enough to deter the coyote.

Kayaking has been a part of the human story for thousands of years. Developed by Inuit people for fishing and transportation, kayaking is now an increasingly popular mode of recreation. Similar to canoeing, kayaking offers an active way to get out on the water and intimately enjoy the outdoors.

The growing interest in recreational kayaking is a direct result of the activity’s many benefits and widespread appeal. Kayaking offers a satisfying combination of physical exercise and the grace-filled sensation of being in sync with the stillness and flow of water.

On a clear and windless morning, the experience of slicing quietly across the surface of the water as you repeatedly dip and retract your paddle is simply glorious.

For beginner paddlers interested in purchasing a kayak of their own and advancing their skills, the kayak market can seem complicated. Although kayaking requires various pieces of gear (a paddle and a personal flotation device), a reliable entry-level kayak is the most important item that a beginner will need.

There are many different types and styles of kayaks, each designed for a specific purpose and to best suit a specific kind of paddler. Some categories beginners should be aware of include sit-in kayaks, sit-on-top kayaks, inflatable kayaks, tandem kayaks, and folding kayaks.

Because there are several categories, we’ve chosen the best kayaks in each category to help find the best kayak for you. Be sure to read our buyers guide and our comparison chart to better inform your decision. Scroll through to view our picks for the best beginner kayak, or jump to a category below:

• Best Sit-On-Top Kayak
• Best Sit-In Kayak
• Best Budget Kayak
• Best Tandem Kayak
• Best Pedal Kayak
• Best Inflatable Kayak
• Best Folding Kayak
• Best Kayak for Kids

Our how-to guide at the end of the list also provides answers to frequently asked questions and all the information you’ll need to select the best kayak for your adventures.

The Best Kayaks for Beginners in 2022

Best Sit-On-Top Kayak: Wilderness Systems Tarpon 105

The Tarpon 105 kayak from Wilderness Systems ($1,119) is our pick for the best kayak in the sit-on-top category. As a recreational kayak, the Tarpon 105 offers impressive versatility and can perform well when used for various activities such as fishing, camping, exploring, bird-watching, and even surfing waves.

For those looking to own a single kayak that is both beginner-friendly and adaptable, the Wilderness Systems Tarpon 105 is a wise choice. The newest version of the tried-and-true Tarpon is the Tarpon 105. This updated model builds on the success of previous Tarpon iterations and comes with more features than ever before.

Thanks to Wilderness Systems’ careful attention to detail and function-forward mindset, it’s fully stocked the Tarpon 105 with various features for on-the-water support — no matter what your favorite kayak-based activity is. In flatwater or flowing creeks and rivers, this kayak is sporty, stable, and downright fun.

For fishing purposes, the Tarpon 105 is compatible with fishing pole holders, GPS units, and fishfinder screens. Relative to similar boats, the Tarpon 105 is very stable and can maneuver easily through tight coves and sharp bends.

At 10.5 feet long, the Tarpon 105 is shorter and stubbier than many sit-on-top kayaks. Because of its shape, this boat is not especially fast, nor does it glide through the water outstandingly well.

Simply put, the Tarpon 105 was built for stable cruising and not for speedy racing. For a similar option that is also longer and faster, check out the Tarpon 120.

The 105’s flat hull allows the boat to turn quickly and easily. While paddling, the entire boat changes direction smoothly and with minimal effort.

For long kayaking sessions, the Tarpon 105 is built with Wilderness Systems’ exceptionally comfortable Phase 3 AirPro seating system. The thoughtfully contoured backrest is ergonomic and supportive — crucial traits for a long day on the water.

The Tarpon 105’s impressively long list of well-considered features includes large waterproof storage wells, a magnetic water bottle strap system, a built-in paddle holder, rigid carry handles, and a dog-friendly deck so you can bring your pup on board.

Paddlers who wish to prioritize stability and comfort over speed would do well with the Tarpon 105. Its shorter length gives the Tarpon a boost in portability, and at 55 pounds, it can be carried around without too much trouble.

Although a bit on the more expensive side at around $1,079, the Tarpon 105’s feature-packed, durable design makes it a good-value buy. A versatile kayak that doesn’t sacrifice fun or comfort, the Tarpon 105 is our choice for the best sit-on-top kayak.

Weight: 55 lbs.

Length: 10’6″

Pros:

• Comfortable seat
• Easy to climb in and out of, even while out on the water
• Makes smooth turns, impressively maneuverable
• Useful for lots of activities
• Packed with thoughtful features

Cons:

• Glides slowly
• More expensive than other options

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Best Sit-In Kayak: Old Town Manitou Sport

The Old Town Manitou Sport sit-in kayak ($850) is an excellent do-it-all kayak for beginners and seasoned paddlers alike. Originally designed by Necky Kayaks, which is now part of the Old Town brand, the Manitou Sport is a simple craft that offers stability and maneuverability above all else.

Except for technical whitewater, the Manitou Sport performs well on most water bodies including lakes, rivers, creeks, and bays. A 26.5-inch hull makes this kayak incredibly stable. Its 10’11” length offers a functional balance between smooth tracking and nimble maneuverability.

On open water, the Manitou Sport can handle plenty of speed. It also responds well to sharp turns in tight areas thanks to its extended keel. It’s difficult to find a kayak that shines in so many areas of performance.

Although this boat doesn’t quite offer enough storage space for overnight trips, there is plenty of room for a day trip’s worth of gear. Bow and stern deck rigging lets you secure equipment to the top of the boat, and a dry storage area provides reliable waterproofing.

Adjustable foot pedals and a comfortable seating system make it easy to sit in the boat for hours without becoming stiff or sore.

Overall, the Old Town Manitou Sport is easy to love. Its large cockpit is effortless to climb in and out of, and toggle handles allow comfortable two-person carrying of the kayak from the car to the water and back again.

At $850, this kayak is an excellent value, especially because it comes with a Carlisle Magic Mystic paddle. Old Town built the Manitou Sport to maximize recreational fun on the water, and it delivers with style.

Weight: 44 lbs.

Length: 10’11”

Pros:

• Durable and lightweight
• Comes with a paddle
• Good balance of graceful tracking and responsive maneuverability
• High-volume bow cuts through choppy water with ease
• Comfortable cockpit and seat
• Good value

Cons:

• Not ideal for open ocean or whitewater
• Not very practical for fishing

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Best Budget: Intex Challenger K1

The Intex Challenger K1 inflatable kayak (on sale for $95) is our pick for the best budget kayak available in 2022. With a normal price tag of $170, this boat is far cheaper than other options on this list. For the money, it’s an excellent value that is more than capable of providing many hours of on-the-water fun.

For a cheap kayak, the Challenger K1 handles impressively well on the water. In general, the entire boat rides low, which makes it quite stable and less vulnerable to being pushed around by the wind.

A long skeg helps the K1 track decently well in a straight line. At 9 feet long and 2.5 feet wide, the K1 has a short, stubby profile that turns and steers well.

One downside of the craft’s low profile is the resulting high likelihood of taking on water. The K1 does not have a scupper hole, so to drain any excess water, you’ll have to paddle to shore and flip the entire thing upside down.

The inflatable seat is decently comfortable, and we like that it is both removable and adjustable. On the boat’s upper deck, a cargo net provides a small amount of gear storage. There is not enough space for camping gear, but the net can easily handle a water bottle, a small tackle box, and some snacks.

Intex claims that the K1 is made from venture-resistant vinyl. However, users should take care to keep the boat away from sharp objects — in use and in storage.

Two separate air chambers are quick to inflate. But because there are only two chambers, it’s important to wear a personal flotation device when using this kayak. If one of the chambers pops, the remaining chamber will not provide much buoyancy in an emergency.

The K1 comes with an 84-inch aluminum oar, a repair patch, a carrying duffel, and an inflation pump. To set up the boat, simply inflate both chambers until the included gauge tells you that the boat is good to go.

When your paddling session is over, dry the boat with a towel and fold it back into its carrying duffel. When packed down, the boat and all of its components can be easily stored in a closet or garage.

All things considered, the Intex K1 challenger is a good purchase for paddlers in need of an affordable vessel and who are more concerned about fun than performance. This is not the kayak that will best suit advanced paddlers with racing or expeditionary aspirations. For a day of summer fun, though, the K1 is a wonderful and portable addition to your kit.

Weight: 23.9 lbs.

Length: 9′

Pros:

• Affordable
• Packs down into an included duffel bag
• Comes with a paddle and pump
• Tracks and steers well
• Removable and adjustable seat

Cons:

• No drain plug
• Not the most durable
• Included pump inflates slowly

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Best Tandem Kayak: Advanced Elements Advanced Frame Convertible

The Advanced Elements Convertible Tandem Kayak ($980) is a high-performance inflatable kayak that can be paddled by either one or two people. Although a bit on the more expensive side for an inflatable kayak, the Advanced Elements is comfortable, durable, and thoroughly packed with practical features.

Depending on how you set up the seats, this kayak can be either a tandem or a single kayak. Its 550-pound capacity is plenty to accommodate two paddlers plus additional gear.

Tiedown points, bungees, and integrated pockets offer adequate storage for quite a lot of gear. This kayak could feasibly be used for overnight expeditions — especially when configured for a single paddler.

When paddling the Advanced Elements Convertible Tandem, it’s easy to forget that you’re in an inflatable vessel. Impressively, this boat handles more like a rigid-sided kayak. Plus, it offers supreme durability with three outer layers of ripstop material.

At 15 feet long, the relatively narrow 32-inch hull provides excellent tracking without giving up too much stability. Multiple tracking fins and a small skeg contribute to a smooth, straight, and speedy ride.

In tandem mode, this kayak has ample space for both paddlers to move freely without getting in each other’s way. High seatbacks offer sufficient back support and remain comfortable throughout a full day on the water.

The low-lying seats keep your center of gravity close to the water while paddling. This configuration reduces wind resistance and keeps the boat from feeling tippy.

Inflating and setting up the AE Convertible tandem takes some getting used to. A thorough set of instructions is included, but you will still need to practice a few times before setting it up feels efficient.

Six air chambers can be pumped up, although only three of these are important for structural integrity. Each chamber has specific pressure requirements.

Be sure to be careful when inflating because it can be easy to over or underfill. The kayak does not come with paddles or a pump.

Overall, this is a hefty inflatable tandem that in many ways feels more like a solid plastic boat than an inflatable one. Its bulk may be a downside for some users — it’s difficult to pack into its duffel and carry on your own.

However, on the performance side, this kayak shines and offers tracking and speed that most other inflatable tandems cannot. It’s not cheap, but because it’s built to last, it’s our pick for the best tandem kayak of 2022.

Weight: 52 lbs.

Length: 15′

Pros:

• Durable
• Capacity of 550 lbs.
• Can be used as a single boat or a tandem
• Tracks well
• Handles speed with ease
• Ample storage space

Cons:

• Heavy
• More expensive than other options
• Setup is difficult, especially with just one person

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Best Pedal Kayak: Hobie Mirage Passport 10.5 R

Hobie has been making kayaks for over 20 years. This model ($1,799) is one of its newer ones, released in 2022. We loved the previous version of this kayak, and the updated model maintains the tried-and-true design while adding a new rotomolded hull construction.

Pedal kayaks have lots of pros. Generally, they are equipped with a few more accessory features and have more room for gear storage. And, of course, they allow you to paddle hands free. Fishing, bird-watching, photography, you name it — there are lots of great applications here.

The Hobie Mirage Passport 10.5 R offers great tracking in the water, whether the weight on board is 150 or 200 pounds. The Mirage Glide technology refers to the fins, pedal, and rudder components.

This kayak has a stowable rudder with steering control located by your left hand next to the seat. The Hobie is a bit wider than standard kayaks to accommodate the seat and steering control, although it only measures 34 inches across.

You may have noticed the aluminum frame seat. Pro: It’s way more comfortable than standard kayak seats. Con: It adds some weight.

If you are doing overnight paddles, or even day touring for hours on end, a comfortable seat is worth it. Even with the extra weight of this kayak, it’s balanced well and feels really streamlined moving through the water.

The Passport 10.5 R has kick-up fins that automatically recess. How cool is that? Whether you are paddling in shallow waters or encountering logs or obstacles, the kick-up fins will automatically recess upon impact to protect both you and your equipment.

Other features on this kayak include an 8-inch twist-and-seal hatch for storing gear, as well as two cargo storage areas with bungee straps on the bow and stern. If you are using this kayak for fishing or touring, storage is important.

There’s plenty of space on this boat to store rods, a tackle kit, dry bags, a small cooler, camera equipment, or anything else you may want to bring along.

Pedal/fishing kayaks can run up to $5,000. This Hobie cat model is a great-quality kayak at a great price, especially if you’re looking to pedal. This kayak comes with a two-piece aluminum paddle.

Weight: 65 lbs. (fitted hull weight), 75 lbs. (fully rigged weight)

Length: 10’5″

Pros:

• Very comfortable seat
• Waterproof gear storage with hatch
• Rod mounts and accessories to personalize your kayak
• Kick-up/retractable fins
• Good price
• High-tech rotomolded construction

Cons:

• Lots of individual components
• Heavier than most other kayaks on this list

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Best Inflatable Kayak: Kokopelli Moki-Lite

Made for touring across flat water, the Kokopelli Moki-Lite inflatable kayak ($699) is portable, easy to set up, and impressively lightweight. This watercraft is ideal for paddlers who are looking for a simple and high-quality boat for recreational paddling.

Compared to other inflatable kayaks, we appreciate how easily the Moki-Lite transitions from fully deflated to water-ready. In less than 10 minutes, this kayak’s floor and side tubes can be filled with air and launched onto the water. When you’re done paddling, the boat deflates and folds into its roomy river bag for easy transport.

The 1,000-denier reinforced PVC drop-stitch floor is fully rigid when pumped up and is abrasion-resistant. Additionally, the EVA seat is low-profile and relatively comfortable to sit in.

A removable 9-inch tracking fin helps the Moki-Lite track smoothly. The entire kayak is just 10 feet long, and this short length results in high-performance maneuverability.

The kayak comes with a four-piece alpine lake paddle, carry bag, Nano Barrel pump, tracking fin, and repair kit. For a streamlined and sporty-looking inflatable kayak, it doesn’t get much better than the Kokopelli Moki-Lite.

Weight: 17 lbs., 3.2 oz.

Length: 10′

Pros:

• Lightweight
• High-quality 1,000D outer material
• Good tracking with 9″ fin attached
• Easy to set up and pack down

Cons:

• Not a lot of cargo space

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Best Folding Kayak: Oru Inlet

For those living in tight quarters, folding kayaks offer all of the benefits of owning your own watercraft without the need for a large storage space. Whether you live in a van or a studio apartment, the Oru Inlet folding kayak ($999) is a brilliant tool that can go with you anywhere.

Compared to the often-convoluted process of inflating a kayak, the Inlet’s origami-like folding assembly is as simple as snapping a few clips and slipping into the cockpit. Oru claims that the Inlet can be set up in 3 minutes, a bold statement that has been verified by several owners and testers.

When it’s all folded up, the Oru Inlet can be slung over a single shoulder for effortless carrying. After all, it weighs only 20 pounds.

While the folds in the kayak do create weaknesses in the 5mm double-layered polypropylene exterior, the Inlet has been manufacturer-rated for 20,000 fold cycles. The hull’s 30-inch width provides enough stability for beginner paddlers to feel comfortable, and also makes it ideal for fishing.

At $999, the Inlet is cheaper than other offerings from Oru, although it’s still expensive compared to many kayaks on this list. The ideal user is someone who enjoys mellow on-the-water excursions and really wants to prioritize easy storage and compact gear.

The cockpit is large enough to store a small dry bag or a bit of fishing gear. However, there probably isn’t enough room for overnight gear, and there is no waterproof cargo area.

Although this is certainly a niche kayak, it easily earns its place on this list of best beginner kayaks. With the Oru Inlet, the entire user experience is defined by simplicity.

It’s simple to set up, simple to paddle, and efficient enough for regular use. With the Oru Inlet, limited gear storage space will no longer keep you from getting out to paddle.

Weight: 20 lbs.

Length: 10′

Pros:

• Super light
• Easy to set up and fold down
• When folded up, the kayak can be carried with a simple shoulder strap
• Padded seat
• Open cockpit is simple to enter and exit
• Beginner-friendly

Cons:

• Maximum weight capacity of 275 lbs.
• Expensive
• Does not track especially well

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Best Kayak for Kids: Perception Hi Five

Part stand-up paddleboard and part kayak, the Hi Five watercraft from Perception ($299) is all about fun on the water, which makes it our pick for the best kayak for kids.

The Hi Five is sized to perfectly suit kids up to 120 pounds. At just 6 feet long and 2 feet wide, this small kayak fits easily into most hatchbacks and roof racks.

Its unique design integrates the seat and other features into one continuous piece of polyethylene plastic that weighs just 24 pounds. Because the entire boat is one solid piece, there are very few ways a user can break or damage the Hi Five.

People with kids will know that the ability to withstand rough handling is an asset of any piece of kids’ gear, and the Hi Five is fully up to the task.

On the Hi Five’s stern, a flat swim-up deck allows for swimmers to easily climb aboard. Other clever features include a paddle rest, a large standing surface, and ergonomic grab handles. All of these features come in handy during blissful hours of family time on the water.

Additionally, the Hi Five is specifically designed to keep working as kids grow, making it a good long-term investment that can stay with you for many years.

For maximum safety, the Hi Five is super stable. It comes with a hitch-and-tether system so mom or dad can tow the boat when the smallest paddler in the family gets tired.

For $300 with a kid-size paddle included, the Hi Five can offer many years of joy and paddling progression. From rivers to creeks to small backyard ponds, the Perception Hi Five is a standout kids’ kayak.

Weight: 21 lbs.

Length: 6′

Pros:

• Good value
• Entire watercraft is one durable piece of molded plastic
• Progression-focused
• Lightweight and easy to transport

Cons:

• Not the most comfortable seat

Check Price at Amazon

Beginner Kayak Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

We compiled this list of kayaks with beginner paddlers in mind. The GearJunkie team has plentiful paddling experience, are we’re also keenly familiar with the kayak market. The boats on this list are user-friendly, approachable, and progression-focused.

Not all beginners will need the same kind of kayak, so we carefully considered dozens of boats and highlighted the best options in several categories. In every category, our recommended kayak had to beat out several other models to earn its place.

To identify our top picks, we considered overall value, usability, build quality, durability, and much more. We examined materials, studied brands, and compared pricetags down to the last detail.

As new kayaks hit the market, we’ll be sure to test them in consideration for this list. At any given time, our roundup will include the best of the best.

Beginners’ Buyers Guide for Kayaks: How to Choose

Before you purchase a beginner-level kayak, you first need to determine what type of kayaking you want to do. There are lots of well-made and high-quality kayak brands, and most brands offer options for a wide range of paddling pursuits. Once you know what kind of attributes you are looking for in a kayak, it will become much easier to choose.

If you want a kayak for mellow cruising on a backyard pond or small lake, you do not want to purchase a sea kayak that is made for slicing through big waves. Similarly, if you need a kayak that will be easy to transport, you don’t want to purchase something bulky and heavy.

There are a few key things to consider when deciding what your kayaking needs really are. There are many unique categories of kayaks, and each category has its own strengths and drawbacks.

In this buyer’s guide, we will provide information about many of these categories, including sit-on kayaks, sit-in kayaks, tandem kayaks, recreational kayaks, day touring kayaks, inflatable kayaks, folding kayaks, pedal-powered kayaks, and whitewater kayaks.

Once you have identified which category best fits your needs and plans, other important considerations to keep in mind include material, weight, capacity, durability, and price. Purchasing the right kayak can feel confusing, but with the use of this in-depth guide, we hope you’ll be able to identify the right kayak to buy.

Types of Kayaks

Sit-on-Top Kayaks

Sit-on-top kayaks do not have an internal, hollowed-out cockpit that you have to climb into. Instead, this style of kayak allows you to sit right on top of the boat, where your legs will be exposed to the open air.

Sit-on-top kayaks tend to be easier to get on and off of than sit-in kayaks. Also, sit-on-top kayaks tend to feel more stable than sit-ins, especially for new paddlers who are getting used to the water.

Sit-on-top kayaks are good for warm weather because the user is likely to get wet. This style of kayak is also better for users who plan to paddle with a dog on board.

Sit-In Kayaks

Sit-in kayaks have an internal cockpit that you have to climb into to paddle. When paddling a sit-in kayak, you will have a low center of gravity and the rotation of your hips will be more involved in steering the boat.

Some sit-in kayaks that are built for whitewater paddling utilize spray skirts that cover the cockpit to prevent water from getting inside. Sit-in kayak users will experience less wind resistance than sit-on-top kayakers.

Tandem Kayaks

Tandem kayaks are paddled by two people at once. To allow this, these boats are usually longer than single-user boats and include two seats instead of one.

Tandem boats can be inflatable or made of solid material. The process of learning how to paddle in sync with your partner can be a fun and tricky challenge.

Recreational Kayaks

When a kayak is labeled “recreational,” that means it’s built to prioritize fun over high-end performance. Recreational kayaks will not be the fastest or lightest boats on the market, but they will include practical features that maximize comfort and allow you to enjoy your paddling experience.

Day Touring Kayaks

Day touring kayaks are meant for single-day excursions. These boats lack adequate storage space for overnight trips or expeditions. Often, day touring kayaks are simple and user-friendly vessels built for a quick session on the water.

Inflatable Kayaks

Inflatable kayaks are filled with air like a balloon and can be deflated when not in use. For users who do not have enough storage space to keep a rigid plastic kayak at home, an inflatable kayak can be a fantastic solution.

Inflatable kayaks typically have multiple compartments that must all be pumped full of air before use. This list includes both single-user and tandem inflatable kayaks that we recommend.

Folding Kayaks

In recent years, many folding lightweight kayaks have entered the market. These boats aim to maximize portability for kayakers who don’t have a lot of available storage space in their lives.

Folding kayaks require some practice to assemble and set up properly. Although folding kayaks tend not to be as durable on the water as solid plastic kayaks, they tend to be more lightweight than any other category of kayaks.

Pedal Kayaks

Pedal-powered kayaks do not require a paddle to move about the water. Instead, these kayaks are operated using your legs, either by pushing or rotating the pedals to generate thrust. This style of kayak is excellent for fishing because the foot pedals leave your hands free to cast out and tend to your fishing rod.

Whitewater Kayaks

Whitewater kayaks are made to maneuver through fast-flowing water. Whitewater kayaks are almost always sit-in kayaks, with a short length and minimal storage space. Most whitewater kayaks utilize a spray skirt to keep water out of the cockpit.

Kayak Features

Material vs. Weight

Most kayaks on market these days are made of solid plastic, inflatable abrasion-resistant PVC, thin foldable plastic, or fiberglass. Different materials work well for different functions.

Solid plastic boats tend to be the most durable. Inflatable PVC and foldable plastic are lighter and easier to pack down and store in a small space.

If you plan on paddling with a dog on board, it may be wise to steer clear of inflatable kayaks that can be punctured. Solid plastic kayaks tend to be heavier than inflatable and foldable kayaks. (And obviously, tandem kayaks are heavier than single kayaks.)

If you plan to kayak alone and need to load and unload your kayak from your car on your own, it is wise to purchase a lighter kayak that you can easily carry. Or, get a kayak dolly. Kayaks on this list vary widely by weight, so be sure to check the kayak’s weight before purchasing.

Capacity

The majority of brands measure kayak capacity by weight. Before you purchase a kayak, make sure that the boat will be able to accommodate the total weight of the anticipated user (plus the weight of any gear). It’s good to stay on the conservative side of a boat’s capacity limit to ensure that it will perform safely and as intended.

Durability

Kayaks are built to be durable, but not all boats are created equal. Inflatable watercraft tend to be less durable than solid plastic ones because they are vulnerable to punctures.

To maximize the longevity of your kayak’s life, be careful not to drag it along jagged rocks during loading and unloading. When storing your kayak, be sure to keep it out of the full sun and away from potentially harmful objects and substances. And of course, always follow PSI recommendations to prevent overinflation.

Price

It’s wise to decide on a specific budget before you begin the actual shopping process. Kayaks vary in price a lot, and high-end options can be very expensive.

Still, it’s very possible to find a fairly priced kayak that offers excellent value for the money. If you are considering buying a kayak for yourself and your partner, you’ll also want to weigh the options of buying two kayaks versus buying a tandem.

FAQ

What is the best type of kayak for beginners?

We recommend all of the kayaks on this list to beginner paddlers. Ultimately, the best kayak will be the one that meets your individual needs and helps you progress as a paddler. Depending on your lifestyle, storage space, preferred paddling location, and other factors, some kayaks will suit you better than others.

What size kayak is best for beginners?

There are kayaks of all shapes and sizes on the market. The size and shape of kayaks vary depending on their intended function. Beginner kayaks tend to be between 9 and 12 feet long and 2 to 3 feet wide.

Long, thin kayaks are built for going fast in a straight line and cutting through choppy water and waves. Short, stubby kayaks are made to be nimble and easy to turn in fast-moving streams and whitewater. Many of the kayaks on this list are midsize to provide a good balance between smooth tracking and maneuverability.

Most kayaks — regardless of their size or shape — can accommodate paddlers of various heights and weights. Before purchasing a kayak, check to make sure it can accommodate a paddler of your size.

Which is better: sit-on-top kayaks or sit-in kayaks?

Neither kayak style is strictly better — they simply have different strengths and weaknesses.

A sit-on-top kayak is easier to climb in and out of, especially while out on the water. Sit-on-top kayaks also tend to be better for kayaking with a dog on board. Overall, sit-on-top kayaks tend to be more comfortable for long paddling sessions, as they allow the user to stretch their legs and move around.

Sit-in kayaks keep the paddler’s center of gravity low, which decreases wind residence and creates superior maneuverability. In colder or rainy weather, sit-in kayaks allow the user to stay fairly dry, especially with the use of a spray skirt.

What size kayak should I get for my height?

Most kayaks are made to accommodate people of a wide range of heights. Many recreational kayaks for beginners are around 10 feet long and will be suitable in size for most adults up to 6 feet tall. For those taller than 6 feet, a recreational kayak around 12 feet long will likely be a better fit.

It can be helpful to test a kayak’s size by sitting in it before purchasing. Make sure there’s enough legroom and your hips fit comfortably in the seat and cockpit. Many kayaks have multiple or adjustable footrests to accommodate paddlers with shorter or longer legs.

What length paddle do I need?

Having a properly sized paddle can make all the difference. When deciding on the length of your paddle, you must consider both your own height and the width of your kayak. Generally, the wider the kayak is, the longer paddle you’ll need to ensure that the sides of the boat won’t get in the way of the paddle blades entering the water.

Most of the beginner kayaks on this list are between 24 and 32 inches wide. So, here is a basic guideline for how to size kayak paddles for kayaks that are between 24 and 32 inches wide.

Paddlers under 5’5” should use a paddle that’s about 220 cm in length. Folks between 5’5” and 5’11” should use a paddle that’s about 240 cm in length. Paddlers over 5’11” should use a paddle that’s around 250 cm in length.

Adjustable paddles are a good idea for those who will not be able to test out their paddles before purchase. Adjustable paddles are also great as they divide into pieces for storage and travel.

Have a favorite kayak? Let us know in the comments, and we’ll check it out for future updates to this article.

Preserving Chub, Shinners & Sucker Minnows with Table Salt

You may ask yourself; what is the big deal about salted minnows? Why am I hearing more and more about fishing with salted minnows? I’ll answer that question!

First of all, in some Canadian provinces and many American states, it is illegal to use live bait on some lakes or you can’t use minnows unless they were caught in the lake you are fishing. It’s also illegal to transport live bait or bring live bait into a state, provincial or national park. It’s to stop the spread of invasive and invading species such as the Round Goby or the Rusty Crayfish. That’s one reason to fish with salted minnows.

The second reason is they work fantastic. Walleye, Northern Pike, Muskie, Smallmouth Bass, Largemouth Bass and Lake Trout and many other freshwater fish go crazy for salted minnows. The reason they go crazy is the salt! When a fish swims the muscles produce excess static electricity and there is a special chemical in the skin along the lateral line that discharges this static electricity is the form of ions. Predatory fish have sensors under their bottom jaw that detect these ions and salt mimics the ions. So when fish detect the salt, the dinner bell rings.

How to Salt Cure Minnows: Salting minnows is very easy but I have seen people make a couple of small mistakes that resulted in parts of the minnow rotting before it becomes salt-cured.

Step 1) Go to the local creek and catch some minnows or buy minnows at your local bait store. Minnows that are too big take a long time to cure and may rot so finger size or smaller is best. Leave your minnows on a newspaper to dry for a couple of hours. You don’t want them to be wet or they may form a crusty coating, which stops the curing process. Minnows bigger than your finger should be scaled and gutted, especially if they are Shinners or other fish with big scales.

Step 2) Get a container that is at least semi-transparent and has an air-tight lid. Pour about 1/2 inch of salt in the bottom. You can use table salt or pickling salt. Do not use rock salt.

Step 3) Place a layer of minnows on the salt. Make sure they are on the salt and not on each other. Cover the first layer with minnows then cover them with another 1/4 inch of salt.

Step 4) The reason you want a container that is at least semi-transparent is to see if you have minnows touching the sides with no salt touching parts of the minnow. You need to grab a fork and nudge the minnows away from the side and let the salt fall in. You want the minnow completely surrounded by salt and not pushed up to the sides of the container. Then you make sure there is a 1/4 inch layer of salt on top of the minnows and then add the next layer of minnows and keep repeating the process until your container is full of salt and minnows.

Step 5) Buy the wife something really nice, screw on the lid good and tight, put the salted minnows in the refrigerator and then give your wife the gift and at the same time you tell her you have minnows in the fridge. If you are generous with the salt and have an air tight lid, they should not smell at all and the wife will not give you a hard time. If you can’t keep them in the fridge, find the coolest spot possible.

Step 6 The night before you are going to use your dry salted minnows you can re-hydrate them by putting some in a plastic zip-loc bag and pour 100% pure Cod Liver Oil on them. After 12 to 24 hours they should re-hydrate and become plumper.

Fishing with Salted Minnows: With smaller minnows, it’s best to put them on a jig and very gently jig so you do not rip the minnow off the jig. Let the fish suck on the minnow for a few seconds before you set the hook. For the big minnows, it’s best to get bigger single hooks and a small sinker and just let the minnow sink to the bottom and then drag the minnow over the tops of rocks and weeds. When a fish hits, release your bail and let the fish take the minnow for 30 second to give the fish time to get all the minnow in its mouth. Also, many fish (especially Pike & Muskie) hit minnows by the side then spit it out to grab it again head first. So if the fish releases the minnow do not real in. Give him time to bit again.

I hope this page was helpful Gary

Ask any turkey hunter, whether he’s a novice or a seasoned veteran, what his meaning of the perfect spring gobbler hunt is, and nine times out of 10 his tainted version will paint a picture sort of like this….

“Well, year before last I had seen this big ol’ bird in the field bottom fuzzed up with a bunch of hens. I mean you could near about see him him any time you wanted to venture across that pine ridge to where you could see the whole field. I figured that he has to be roosting somewhere around the creek as it fed into the beaverpond.

“So one night I told my wife that I had a good mind to go see if I could kill that gobbler the next morning. I didn’t do a real good job of figuring what time it was going to get light enough to see cause I got to the top of that pine ridge and the sky hadn’t even begun to break yet. So I was sitting there catching my breath when, dad burn, if that bird didn’t gobble just down the hill at the end of the field.

“I eased down the hill toward him about 50 more yards and set up by a big ol’ rotten pine treetop that had fallen during a bad ice storm that winter. I mean that bird was gobblin’ up a storm by now. And it was just starting to get light. I hadn’t heard a hen yet, but I gave him something to gobble about when I hit that box call with three or four little yelps. I think he forgot to take a breath cause he gobbled twice in a row. Directly he flew down and landed about 30 yards from me and went into a full strut. When he lifted his head, I let him have it with both barrels.”

Sound familiar? You bet it does! Unfortunately, these textbook encounters seem to happen only to the friends of mine who take a lackadaisical attitude into the woods with them in the spring. All my buddies who really get after the longbeards and study turkey hunting as if it were a college algebra class usually recant their first dual of the day as only a very rewarding, learning experience where the only student was the hunter and the teacher happened to be a wily gobbler that left class early with a bunch of his girlfriends.

All of us turkey hunters have experienced the time when all of our heart and soul was involved in the hunt as we set up on a roosted bird at daylight, only to be totally discouraged in our calling and hunting abilities as Casanova merrily made his way through the forest with his harem, paying no attention to the deliberate approach, crafty setup and finely honed calling sequences. The rest of the morning just seemed to follow a time-tested ritual: a half-hearted march back toward the truck stopping only occasionally to vent our frustrations by making a weak stab at finding another turkey. “It’s getting too hot anyway, I think I’ll grab a biscuit and go fishing.”

It is at this very time of the day that the most successful turkey hunters, the ones that regularly fill their tags every year, have only begun to get excited about the day’s hunt.

Why? The more we learn about the behavior patterns of the wild turkey during the spring, through harvest data, radio telemetry studies of gobblers and just plain old hunting experience, the more we find that the absolute best time to kill a gobbler is between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Let’s take a look at what goes on in the turkey woods during this time of day and what makes it so productive. I visited with some experienced Georgia turkey hunters who have become quite good at calling in longbeards on a regular basis.

Being in the woods a lot during the entire year is not a problem for Mike Hunt, of West Point. Mike is a timber cruiser for Jones Woodyard in LaGrange and is constantly on the go around a several-county area as he cruises, marks and bids on tracks of timber. “Big Mike” became well-known in central Georgia for his deer hunting and fishing abilities, but during the last five years, he has enjoyed his share of success chasing gobblers. What is Mike’s favorite time of day to kill a bird? Just ask him.

“I have had by far most of my luck during my lunch break. I am at an advantage over most folks because come lunchtime I am usually real close to a piece of property that I have permission to turkey hunt on. I have to be at the woodyard most mornings at 8 a.m., so my early morning hunting before work is very short. I don’t usually have a problem knowing where to go to hear a bird on the roost at daylight but almost always he has hens with him early on, especially during April. So what I like to do is set up on him as normal, and even if he doesn’t come my way, I’ll get a fix on which way he’s headed. If I am around that area two to five hours later, I’ll slip in quietly and hit him with some excited cutts from my box call.

Mike’s strategies have been formulated through a lot of trial and error, like giving up on a bird and not trying him until the following day. His new-found tactics for success are simple. Give the bird time to court his hens and eventually they’ll leave him for their nests. The lovesick tom is content a lot of times to strut in his home range waiting for the hens to return later in the day.

“When I first started turkey hunting and knew very little about turkeys and their habits, especially gobblers, I only hunted at daybreak. Eventually I killed a few birds but most mornings I just couldn’t compete with all the hens. Now, I would say that if I had to choose one particular time of day that I was allowed to go into the woods after a longbeard, there’s no doubt it would be during the middle of the day.”

Laughing, Mike added, “I’m not a world-championship caller by any means, but I’ll tell you, a lonely gobbler can make a good caller out of me.”

Mike has also seen the sport of turkey hunting grow at a very fast pace. Naturally, he sees the disadvantage of having to compete with other hunters now more than ever for a good turkey, but with his midday tactics, Mike has found a way to take advantage of the early morning pressure.

“I honestly feel that with your turkey populations getting hunted harder and harder every year, and the vast majority of the hunting pressure taking place during the first three hours of daylight, their instincts are beginning to tell them that responding to the call of a hen first thing in the morning can be risky business. But on the flip side, some aggressive calling on up in the day when most hunters have gone home can bring in a gobbler when nothing else will. The biggest turkey I have ever called in for someone was for a fellow from Florida. I had fooled with this particular bird for a few days early in the morning, then I took this gentleman one day and he killed him at about 11:15 a.m. The old gobbler came strutting in very cautiously. His spur lengths were 1 1/2 inches and 1 3/8 inches.

Don Jones, of Marietta, spends most of his time in the turkey woods in McDuffie, Hancock, Taliaferro and Wilkes counties. These areas of the state have long been known to provide many hunters a rush on any given spring morning, but they also get plenty of hunting pressure, especially the past couple of seasons. Don, like Mike, knows the rewards of waiting out a gobbler until the middle of the day.

Being an excellent bowhunter with a Pope & Young deer to his credit, Don is an avid outdoorsman who just enjoys being in the woods. Staying in the woods from daylight until well into the afternoon is not uncommon for Don during the turkey season, and consequently, much of his success comes during what he calls his “flash hunts.”

“A flash hunt is when I’m calling aggressively one moment and the next moment I’ve got a gobbler on the ground,” said Don.

He describes his midday tactic as “prospecting.” Unlike a lot of experienced turkey hunters who rely on several different types of calls during a day’s hunt, Don travels very lightly in anticipation of covering a lot of ground on a routine hunt, and he depends almost exclusively on mouth diaphragms.

“Like any other turkey hunter, I’m waiting for the redbirds to wake up while waiting for that first gobble. If I’m not able to set up on a gobbling turkey early on, I start covering as much ground as possible. I stay mainly on top of the ridge and call down into the bottoms with a lot of excited cutting calls. I won’t usually get real serious about locating a receptive tom until after the sun has had a chance to get on up in the sky,” said Don.

“The reason I don’t call real heavy early on is I feel the chances of calling a longbeard away from his harem of hens is small, and I feel like I’m just educating the birds to my style of calling.”

This point is to be taken seriously. Since turkeys are birds with very strong social ties, meaning they don’t like to hang out alone except when hens nest, it is not a gobbler’s first choice to leave the company of other turkeys early in the morning.

The established dominance order a group of gobblers plays a key role in why midday hunting can be very successful. With turkeys roosting every night in groups, whether they’re large or small groups, there is a series of events that usually take place just after daybreak during the breeding season. They turkeys fly down and the dominant toms commence to strutting and courting the hens. During this time, the subordinate gobblers (usually 2-year-old birds) will hang around the action just to watch what is going on. Sometimes they can even get away with strutting, as long as it is outside the comfort zone of the boss tom. Any effort to get too close to the hens is met with some resistance. This continues for the first hour or two after fly-down time. Eventually, these subordinate, or satellite, gobblers will have worked themselves up in a frenzy and stray off looking for some action. It is these birds that can provide, in Don’s words, a flash hunt. Also, after a little longer length of time, the dominant gobbler is given the cold-shoulder treatment by his hens as they leave him to go to their nests, making him just vulnerable enough on up in the middle of the day to come in to some excited cutting calls of a hen.

Don ends up with this piece of advice, “I try to cover as much ground as possible, cutting loudly and often to get a response. The instant that I feel like the gobbler has begun to make his way toward my calling, I will cut back considerably on the volume and frequency of my calling. This is also a good time to begin scratching in the leaves to sound like a hen is feeding. I have killed some birds by only scratching after he answered my call and was headed my way.”

With turkey season nearly two weeks old, there is a good chance that gobblers in your neck of the woods have heard their share of calling early in the morning. By giving midday hunting a try, you can increase your odds by calling to birds when they don’t normally hear a lot of excited hen talk, catching a tom whose harem of hens has given him the slip, or maybe coaxing a satellite gobbler to within gun range.

Fish also make a viable bait source, which is great for those of us who love to spend time angling as well as hunting. They can be used in many of the same ways as the above methods: just save the heads and guts in the freezer and make a pile.

One of the main ways they’re used as bait by experienced coyote trappers and hunters, however, is by salting them. When salted, the fish can be kept almost indefinitely without making your house reek or taking up room in your freezer that could probably be better used by stocking with more edible game.

It’s not a bait of last resort, it’s actually quite effective, but it is a bit specialized when it comes to making sure you have some on hand.

Related: “When Is The Best Time To Hunt Coyotes?” Searching For The Perfect Shot

6. Chicken liver

This is one of the most popular baits for coyote, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, and they love to eat it.The main downside of using chicken liver as bait is that it can be expensive if you go through alot of it, and it doesn’t store well. You can’t just keep a bunch in your freezer like you can with some of the other types of baits on this list.You’ll have to either use it fresh or find a way to preserve it, which means figuring out how to keep it from going bad too quickly or learning how to salt it properly so that it lasts a bit longer.

8.) Coyote urine

If you want to guarantee that a coyote is going to show up, using coyote urine as bait is about as close as you can get. You can purchase it online or at many sporting goods stores, and all you have to do is let it drip onto the ground near where you’ll be waiting with your gun.The downside to using this method is that it can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it, and it also doesn’t store well. Once opened, a bottle of coyote urine will only last for a few months before it starts to lose its potency.You’ll also want to be sure that you don’t use too much, as the coyote will be able to smell it from quite a distance and if there’s too much they may just avoid the area altogether. A little goes a long way with this method.

9.) Fruits and vegetables

You might not think of fruits and vegetables as being good bait for coyote, but in reality they can be quite effective. This is especially true if you happen to live near an area where farmers are growing crops. Apples, watermelons, and other fruits make excellent bait, as do corn and other vegetables. The key is to find a way to keep them from going bad too quickly. One method is to soak them in salt water overnight, which will help to preserve them.You can also add some sugar to the mix, which will make the bait even more irresistible to coyotes. Just be sure not to use too much or you’ll end up attracting bears and other large animals that you don’t want to deal with.

10.) Bacon

Bacon is another bait that can be quite effective, but it shares many of the same drawbacks as chicken liver. It’s a strong scent that will often bring coyotes in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep bacon fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

11.) Coyote food

One of the best baits you can use is something that the coyote would normally eat. This could be anything from a small animal to a piece of meat that you’ve been able to trap.The key is to make sure the bait is fresh, and that you’re using something that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

12.) Sausage

Sausage is another type of meat that can be quite effective as bait for coyote, but it has the same drawbacks as bacon. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep sausage fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

13.Kitten food

Kitten food can be an effective bait for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

14.Cheese

Cheese is a common bait that can be used to catch many different types of animals, and it also works well for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

What To Look For When Choosing A Crossbow Under $500

You might think that when looking for a budget crossbow under $500 that you have to sacrifice certain features or preferences. That isn’t the case, though. You can still be picky. Here are some specific things to look at.

Brand Name

RELATED: Best Crossbow

It’s not always necessary to get a brand name, but in the case of crossbows, certain brands do give you the confidence that they’ll be well crafted. When looking for a budget crossbow, specifically, several name brands help assure you that the low price doesn’t necessarily mean lower quality. These include:

• Barnett
• PSE Archery
• TenPoint (who also make Wicked Ridge models)
• Bowtech/Excalibur
• Bear Archery
• Centerpoint
• Killer Instinct

RELATED: Best Hunting Gear

Compound, Recurve or Reverse Draw

Among the three main types of crossbows, compound models are by far the most common. They provide power and speed without being too bulky. Plus, they minimize draw weight without sacrificing power.

As opposed to compound crossbows, recurve models are much simpler. As a result, they rarely break down, require minimal maintenance and are easier to use. This makes them good for beginners. Their main downside is size, specifically ATA width. They also usually have a bit less power, but this can also be good for beginners.

Reverse-draw crossbows are a newer type of crossbow with a more innovative design that involves, well, drawing the crossbow the opposite way. The advantage is that you get a longer power stroke, which means the bowstring accelerates the bolt for more time, giving you more speed and power with a narrower ATA. They also tend to shoot more quietly.

Unfortunately, reverse-draw models are a bit more complicated to use and are usually more expensive. They’re a better choice for experienced archers looking for something new.

Speed

Crossbow bolt speed, measured in feet per second, or FPS, usually ranges between 300 and 500 FPS and is one of the most important features to look at. While just about any crossbow is fast enough to hunt medium-sized game like deer, you may want a more powerful model for big game like elk, moose or bear.

RELATED: Best Place To Shoot A Deer With A Crossbow

Additionally, while faster bolt speeds give you more range and improve accuracy, they can be hard to handle for beginners, and the effective range of the crossbow does not really change that much. We usually recommend you stay under 400 FPS for your first crossbow, but over 400 is fine if you have some experience.

Draw Weight

Draw weight is less of an issue for crossbows compared to vertical bows because pretty much any crossbow is going to be impossible for someone to cock without some kind of device. However, a lower draw weight may be easier to cock just using a foot stirrup rather than a cocking rope or crank. This is important for archers who don’t have a lot of upper body strength.

Cocking Method

Unless you’re a record-holding powerlifter, you’ll almost certainly need some kind of cocking device to cock your crossbow. The simplest way is with a foot stirrup. By putting your foot through the stirrup, you get leverage that allows you to pull up the bowstring.

However, other methods can make things a lot easier. For example, a cocking rope better distributes the draw weight so it takes less effort to pull up the bowstring.

The easiest way, though, is with a crank. By rotating the crank, you slowly draw back the bowstring with little effort at all. Some crossbow models come with a crank that’s integrated into the frame, a great feature to look for.

A crank also works to decock a crossbow, which makes them that much more valuable.

Safety

Crossbows are dangerous weapons, so safety should always be a priority, doubly so if you’re shopping for a youth or beginner crossbow shooter. Standard safety features include trigger safeties and anti-dry-fire mechanisms that keep the crossbow from releasing the bowstring if there isn’t a bolt loaded. Dry firing can damage a crossbow and even cause it to splinter and injure the shooter.

More advanced safety features include finger wings, trigger guards and even rail sensors. These do their best to prevent your fingers from crossing the plane of the crossbow bowstring which moves so fast that it could potentially cut off your finger.

Accessories

It’s always nice when a crossbow comes with accessories so you don’t have to buy them separately. Essential accessories you should look for so you can start hunting right off the bat include:

• Crossbow bolts
• Scope
• Some kind of cocking method (stirrup, cocking rope or crank)

Of course, some crossbows also come with other accessories that can increase your chances of hunting success. These add a lot of value to the package and include:

• Quiver
• Carrying case
• Sling
• Limb dampeners
• String silencers
• Rail lube

We also want to mention crossbow broadheads. You need hunting broadheads to go hunting, but these are rarely included in hunting packages, even if they come with bolts. If the package does, that’s a great feature.

Warranty

With proper maintenance and care, your crossbow should last for years, but it’s always worth checking the warranty a given crossbow comes with. For one thing, a long warranty lets you buy with the reassurance that you can return or repair it if there is some kind of defect. More importantly, long warranties signal that the manufacturer is confident in their product and has crafted it with care.

Final Thoughts

Even if you’re on a budget, you can still get a crossbow with the features and accessories you need. Our best overall crossbow under $500 is the Wicked Ridge Rampage 360, but the staff here at DeerHuntingGuide.net really love the PSE Archery Fang HD as well.

Make sure you’ve considered all the reviews and how each crossbow might fit your personal hunting needs and situation.

Now it’s time to go buy your favorite crossbow on the list, take it out in your yard and get it sighted in, just in time for the hunting season!

Available Montana Bison Hunts – Search HF Aventures

Montana has two bison migration hunts. Unit 385-20 is on the northern border of Yellowstone National Park near the town of Gardiner, and unit 395-20 is located on the western side of the park near the town of West Yellowstone. Season dates for these hunts will be November 15, 2024-February 15, 2024, and 40 tags will again be issued for each hunt. Keep in mind that there will be a lot of Native American tribes from across several of the western states that have traditional hunting rights and will be hunting if bison are coming out of the park.

Go on More Hunts with Better Information, Join Huntin’ Fool Today!

The other bison hunt is unit 385-21, and it is only valid in the Absaroka Beartooth portion of unit 385. Season dates will be September 15-November 14. The bison population is very small, and with a hunt quota of only five, it is not available to nonresidents. This is a very remote wilderness backcountry hunt that is loaded with grizzlies. Pack animals are a must if you harvest on this hunt. Only two of the hunters reported harvesting in 2022.

Montana’s non-resident bison hunts allow hunters the chance to harvest a bison as they migrate out of Yellowstone National Park. With a combination of mild weather and a lack of good snowfall, the herd will stay safely within the confines of the park’s boundaries for the entire hunting season. This had been the case since the 2017-2018 hunting season, and only 15 total bison were harvested between the 2018 and 2021 seasons by the 320 migration permit holders. With cold weather and heavy snow, the herd of almost 6,000 animals will move into the hunting districts along the northwestern boundary of the park in search of lower elevation and better access to forage. When this happens, hunters will have good success on their hunts. Rolling the dice on 2022-2024’s weather paid off for successful bison applicants as strong winter conditions beginning in early November set the stage in driving hundreds of migratory bison out of the park. In total, state hunters killed 73 bison between the two migration hunts. In district 385-20, 34 of the 40 tags issued in the draw were filled. Another 20 hunt roster tags were later activated on that hunt and 14 of those were also filled. In district 395-20, 25 of 40 tags were filled. Another 782 bison had been harvested by tribal hunters through the first week of March 2024.

Montana Bison Draw

There is no point system for Montana bison, so your odds are the same as all other applicants. These can be extremely frustrating hunts most years, but if you want to hunt Boone and Crockett eligible bison, Montana is one of only a handful of states that offers the opportunity to do so.

Our Memberships Include The Most Accurate Draw Odds Available, Join Now!

Self-Guided Montana Bison Hunts

Over the last 20+ years, we’ve collected hunting research and data, so join Huntin’ Fool today and access the best research tools for hunting bison in Montana, including 3D Maps, Draw Odds, Consultations, and much more. Go on more hunts with better information!

Private Land, Semi-Guided, and Guided Bison Hunts in Montana

Search our database for Montana Bison opportunities.

Consult with Hunters Who Have Hunted in Your Unit, Join Now!

Montana Bison Application Deadline

The Montana Bison application deadline is May 1, 2024.

Our magazine, which is available in print and online, has everything in one location – application info, draw details and odds, fees, hunter requirements, point structure, age restrictions, youth information, weapon restrictions, other tag opportunities, hunt planning, and much more. If you would like access to all of our research, join today!

2022 MONTANA NON-RESIDENT FEES Up-Front Fees Base Hunting License $15 Conservation License $10 Bonus Point (optional/per species) $20 Bison Application Fee $50 Post Draw License Fees (if successful) Bison Permit $1,250 Bow and Arrow License (required for all archery hunts) $10 *Fees do not include the additional 2.5% convenience fee.

MT Bison Hunting Articles from Huntin’ Fool Magazine

• Fort Peck Bison Bustin’ by Amy Hanneman
• First Bison at 59 by Matt Langenfeld
• Another Great Tag! by Colter Hanneman
• Trophy Bison at 60 by Matt Langenfeld
• My First Big Game Animal by Nancy Wollenzien

North Carolina is one of the top 10 hunting states with almost 700,000 paid license holders. And these hunters are serious about whitetail deer. It’s the most popular game animal with nearly 250,000 hunters spending an average of 15 days per season going after their quarry. If you want to harvest one of the more than 200,000 deer taken in the state each year, be sure you’re aware of the season dates and regulations.

2022-2024 Season Dates

North Carolina deer hunting seasons vary by region, though it’s worth noting that the archery season starts on September 10 everywhere.

Also be aware that the “gun” season for each zone applies to antlered deer only. You can only hunt antlerless deer in an “either-sex gun” season. These are a bit more complicated, so it has its own separate section below.

The archery seasons are either sex unless otherwise specified.

Northeastern and Southeastern Zones

Central Zone

Northwestern Zone

Western Zone

Either-Sex Deer Seasons

Regardless of their zone, each county in North Carolina follows one of five types of either-sex season in which both antlered and antlerless deer can be taken. These often coincide with part of the standard antlered-only gun season.

North Carolina Bag Limits

North Carolina has a pretty high bag limit of six deer, though there’s a season maximum of two antlered deer. There is no daily bag limit.

If you want to hunt more than six deer, it is possible to get bonus antlerless harvest report cards that allow for an additional two antlerless deer per card during the special urban archery season in the participating towns and cities.

Urban archery season lasts from January 14-February 19, and you can find the participating municipalities on page 66 of the North Carolina Inland Fishing, Hunting & Trapping Regulations Digest. The report card costs $11 for both residents and non-residents.

North Carolina Licenses and Costs

North Carolina is a fairly hunter-friendly state in that all you need is a license to hunt deer and any other game animal. In fact, you can even get a combo license that covers both hunting and fishing.

That said, there are many different kinds of licenses divided between annual and lifetime licenses with different prices for residents and non-residents. To be considered a resident, you have to have lived in North Carolina for six months or have established a permanent residence for 60 days. Students attending a university in North Carolina as well as active-duty military stationed in North Carolina or from North Carolina and stationed outside the state.

Anyone hunting in North Carolina needs a license except for:

• A landowner, their spouse or their dependents under 18 hunting on their own land
• Members of the armed forces serving outside of North Carolina in the state on leave for 30 days or less
• Youth under age 16 as long as they have completed a hunter safety course or are accompanied by an adult

Combo Licenses

Hunting-Only Licenses

Big game includes deer, bear and wild turkey, so if you’re a whitetail hunter, make sure to get the appropriate license. If you already have a lesser license but want to hunt deer, you can add it on. It costs $14 for residents and $100 for non-residents.

In addition to the above prices, residents of Georgia, South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia receive specific discounted non-resident prices for licenses, so make sure you check the digest.

Hunter Education Requirement

You must take a hunter education course and receive a certificate of completion to get a hunting license in North Carolina. The only exceptions are if you have a valid license acquired before July 1, 2013, or obtain an apprentice permit. Hunters with an apprentice permit must be accompanied by a licensed adult 18 years old or older. The Hunting Heritage Apprentice Permit is free.

What Weapons Can You Hunt With in North Carolina?

Archery

North Carolina allows bowhunting with longbows, recurve bows, compound bows and crossbows. Recurve and longbows must have a draw weight of at least 40 pounds while compound bows must have a draw weight of at least 35 pounds. Crossbows have a minimum draw weight of 100 pounds. Broadheads must have a cutting diameter of at least ⅞ inch.

Blackpowder

During blackpowder season, North Carolina only allows firearms manufactured before 1898 that cannot use fixed ammunition or replicas of such a weapon that haven’t been modified to fire fixed ammunition.

Gun

During deer gun season, North Carolina allows the use of shotguns no larger than 10 gauge and pistols with no restrictions on length or caliber. Additionally, any rifle is legal except for fully automatic rifles or those prohibited by specific counties.

Can You Hunt With an AR-15 in North Carolina?

Yes, you can hunt with an AR-15 in North Carolina. The only exceptions are if you have modified your AR-15 or similarly styled rifle for automatic fire or if the specific county has a law that supersedes the state regulation.

What Types of Deer Are Popular in North Carolina?

Whitetail deer are the only species of deer native to North Carolina. There are around 200 elk present in the state, but it is not legal to hunt them. As a result, whitetail deer is by far the most popular game animal, which is also true for the country in general. In 2022 North Carolina deer hunting season, nearly 250,000 hunters spent 3.7 million days harvesting overing 200,000 deer.

What Else Is Popular to Hunt in North Carolina?

Although more people hunt deer in North Carolina than any other game, it’s actually only the fourth most harvested animal. In 2022, doves were by far the most heavily hunted with a total harvest of more than 830,000. Ducks and squirrels were second and third respectively.

Other popular game animals include:

• Rabbits
• Raccoons
• Coyotes
• Geese
• Quail
• Wild swine