Are armor-piercing bullets legal?

A: Yes. Under federal law it is perfectly legal to make, sell and purchase “armor-piercing” ammunition as long as you have the proper licensing. However, there are some nuances to the definition of “armor piercing” ammunition that we’ll explore in this article, along with the licensing requirements for making ammunition for sale.

To explore this topic, we’ll first discuss the federal definition of armor piercing ammo (which actually applies to armor piercing bullets) and then we’ll cover what licensing is needed in order to make ammunition for sale (whether it is AP ammo or regular ammunition).

What is armor-piercing ammunition?

Before we discuss AP ammunition, we first need to look at the federal definition for ammunition:

18 USC 921(a)(17):(A) The term “ammunition” means ammunition or cartridge cases, primers, bullets, or propellant powder designed for use in any firearm.

As you can see, the legal definition for ammunition includes all the components of ammunition… it isn’t just the completed round of ammunition.

The components of ammunition are:

• Bullet – this is the projectile that is fired from the firearm – it is not the entire cartridge
• Primer – this is the part the ignites the powder when it is struck by a firing pin
• Powder – this is what burns and build gas pressure which propels the bullet down the barrel
• Case – this is the part of ammunition that holds everything else together. It is usually metallic (most often made of brass, but can be aluminum, steel, or polymer)

Knowing that each component is ammunition by itself is an important distinction here. First, as we’ll discuss next, the bullet alone is what is regulated as “armor piercing ammo.” Second, certain people can not posses ammunition (e.g. felons and other “prohibited persons“) and therefore the possession of an empty case is enough to cause trouble. Third, there are licensing requirements for making ammunition for sale. Often folks think that they don’t need an FFL to make only a component of ammunition, however, you can now see why this thinking is wrong.

Under federal law, “armor piercing ammunition” is:

18 USC 921(a)(17):(B) The term “armor piercing ammunition” means—(i) a projectile or projectile core which may be used in a handgun and which is constructed entirely (excluding the presence of traces of other substances) from one or a combination of tungsten alloys, steel, iron, brass, bronze, beryllium copper, or depleted uranium; or(ii) a full jacketed projectile larger than .22 caliber designed and intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket has a weight of more than 25 percent of the total weight of the projectile.

As you can see, there are two parts to the definition of AP ammo and both apply to the projectile (bullet):

1. Any bullet, or bullet core, which may be used in a handgun and is made of certain metals (e.g. steel, brass, etc.)
2. A full-jacketed bullet larger than .22 caliber designed and intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket is more the 25% of the total weight.

Both definitions involve the use of a bullet in a handgun. This is because this law was adopted as part of the Law Enforcement Officer’s Safety Act and was intended to regulate “cop-killer” bullets from easily concealable firearms (handguns).

Note the distinction (emphasis added) between the first and the second definition. One requires a design intent to be used in a handgun, while the other applies if a bullet could possibly be used in a handgun.

The ATF has defined many bullets, that are typically rifle bullets, as able to be used in a handgun. For example, a .223 Remington cartridge, which is what most AR-15s fire, is a rifle cartridge. However, with the popularity of AR-15 pistols, the ATF has cracked down on certain .223 Remington bullets – for example, brass bullets. This is because a brass bullet for a .223 Remington cartridge is now “armor piercing” in the eyes of the ATF because it can be used in a handgun.

There is an exemption for some bullets:

18 USC 921(a)(17):(C) The term “armor piercing ammunition” does not include shotgun shot required by Federal or State environmental or game regulations for hunting purposes, a frangible projectile designed for target shooting, a projectile which the Attorney General finds is primarily intended to be used for sporting purposes, or any other projectile or projectile core which the Attorney General finds is intended to be used for industrial purposes, including a charge used in an oil and gas well perforating device.

For example, “green tip” 5.56 ammunition (the military/NATO variation of .223 Remington) has been exempted by the ATF even though it has a tungsten steel “armor piercing” core.

Can you make and sell armor-piercing ammunition?

In order to make any ammunition for sale, you must have a Federal Firearms License (FFL) Specifically, you’d need a Type 6 or 7 FFL. If you’re only making standard ammunition for yourself, no license is needed.

The good news is that an FFL is fairly easy to get, even out of your home! Also, an FFL doesn’t cost as much as you might think. If you’re interested, check out our Get Your FFL Course.

If you want to make or sell AP ammo, you’ll need to get a Type 9, 10, or 11 FFL, and you’ll also need to become a Special Occupation Taxpayer (SOT). Don’t worry, we’ve got a course for that too. 🙂 As a manufacturer of AP ammo, you’ll need to accurately track and keep a log of every AP bullet you make, and you’ll only be able to sell to specific customers (typically government/LE) with approval.

If you’d like to learn more about how to make, sell, or even import AP ammo, please check out our ATF compliance course.

The hunting story follows human language back to the very beginning. And luckily for us bibliophiles, there are now hunting books, apps like Audible, and a Kindle to tell it.

Hunters know that stories abound the world over — and most spin plenty of their own tall tales. It’s easy to search the web and find a whole swath of hunting books sitting atop the charts. And those books about hunting are often entertaining, educational, and important.

But it turns out there are plenty of books that tell hunting stories without entirely branding them as such. Perhaps it’s a lauded gourmand recapping his life with bird dogs and expensive bottles of wine. Or perhaps it’s a series of outdoorsmen and women telling near-death stories that will both shock and educate you as you head afield.

It could also be a 1984 expedition into the Arctic, where a writer walks among natives — both wildlife and human — to learn the ways of their northern world. Or it could simply just be a collection of classic tried-and-true hunting stories, collected into one place for all to enjoy.

I gathered up a few of my favorites that walk the line and tell the tales. Among these best hunting books, I hope you find a few new favorites.

Best Hunting Books

‘Campfire Stories: Close Calls‘ by Steven Rinella & Contributors

My favorite hunting book of 2021 wasn’t a hunting book per se, but a hunting-adjacent audiobook experience put out by the MeatEater team in tandem with Audible. Inspired by a brown bear attack while filming a MeatEater episode, Rinella invites contributors with near-death stories that chill and entertain.

Stories range from bear attacks to backcountry falls to one particular harrowing escape from hypothermia. The quality of this audiobook experience is akin to listening to a really highly produced podcast in chunks from different folks on different topics. It’s a fun listen.

And I seriously doubt you’ll be able to drop one of these stories in the middle to listen to later. Once you’re in it, you’re in it.

Listen to ‘Campfire Stories: Close Calls’

‘The Hunter’s Game: Poachers and Conservationists in Twentieth-Century America‘ by Louis S. Warren

If you enjoy nerding out on conservation history like I do, “The Hunter’s Game” will take your understanding of American hunting culture to a new level. Historian Louis S. Warren weaves narratives that, though dense at times, are unlike any I’ve heard in the usual storytelling of American conservation lore.

The struggles of socioeconomic factors against a rising tide of sport hunters changed not only the face of wildlife management but also how Americans view wildlife in the broader scheme of things. And the stories he focuses on in Pennsylvania, New Mexico, and Montana shed a more complicated light on what it means to be a conservationist in modern-day America.

In my opinion, this is a must-read for all hunters and wildlife enthusiasts alike.

Read ‘The Hunter’s Game’

‘The Last Wild Road: Adventures and Essays from a Sporting Life‘ by T. Edward Nickens

T. Edward Nickens is one of the most prolific hunting writers among us, and his longtime effort as a journalist and editor-at-large at Field & Stream is reflected in this 2021 collection of stories.

Funny, poignant, and occasionally heartbreaking, Nickens’ stories run the gamut. But they always meet on the side of human connection in hunting, where consciousness meets the outdoors in fresh and sometimes surprising ways.

A personal favorite involves a trip to Pennsylvania, where Nickens meets and communes with a pair of brothers who lost their father in a hunting accident many years prior. What happens? You’ll have to read to find out.

Read ‘The Last Wild Road’

‘Traplines: Coming Home to Sawtooth Valley‘ by John Rember

I picked up “Traplines” off a bookshelf in the back of the Polebridge Mercantile outside of Glacier National Park. That weekend, it became a fast favorite.

Author John Rember tells the tale of his life spent in Idaho’s Sawtooth Valley. And he masterfully (and hilariously) weaves in the history of Sawtooth Valley, the plight of the salmon, learning to hunt with his father, and more.

I love this book. I reread it every year at least once, and it deserves a place on that coveted bookshelf.

Read ‘Traplines’

‘American Serengeti: The Last Big Animals of the Great Plains‘ by Dan Flores

If you’ve ever flown over middle America and stared down at the neverending grid of corn and suburbia, wondering what this place looked like before we plastered “for sale” signs and white picket fences all over it, this is the book to pick up.

Flores is a masterful writer and storyteller, and he delves into the wild history of the great plains. And, more specifically, he parcels out how the wildlife that makes its home there has fared through the colonization of the plains.

If hunting a bison or a pronghorn is on your list, get this book in your hands to better understand their plight.

Read ‘American Serengeti’

‘That Wild Country: An Epic Journey through the Past, Present, and Future of America’s Public Lands‘ by Mark Kenyon

The latest literary installment from the MeatEater crew is Mark Kenyon’s “That Wild Country.” Kenyon is a renowned figure in the current landscape of whitetail hunting, and he’s one of the most successful podcasters in the outdoor genre with his podcast Wired To Hunt. But aside from his regular gig in the hunting media world, he’s also an outdoor writer.

He enters the literary game with a book that celebrates his experiences on public lands while also delving into the history, politics, and possible future of our natural resources. The book is present, personal, and educational, and the reader will find it to be quite apt for the current moment whether they’re a hunter or an angler.

It’s also a great buy if you own a Kindle, offering free access with Kindle Unlimited or a $2 fee without.

Read ‘That Wild Country’

‘Great American Hunting Stories,’ Edited by Lamar Underwood

I like essay collections, and this one is particularly cool. It includes a lot of writing by big names in history like Theodore Roosevelt, Zane Grey, and William T. Hornaday.

This collection spans the globe, from getting charged by lions in the African bush to bird hunting in the American South. This collection is ready for readin’ by a roaring fireplace.

Read ‘Great American Hunting Stories’

‘Beyond Fair Chase: The Ethic and Tradition of Hunting‘ by Jim Posewitz

This small but mighty book is a beginner’s foray into the ethics of hunting. Often given out as part of course material for hunter education courses, “Beyond Fair Chase” opens the reader up to the basic foundation of what it means to be an ethical hunter.

And the book has now been in circulation for 27 years, with more than 2 million copies sold. At just $6, it’s affordable and makes for a great gift for the new or coming-of-age hunter. It’s not just a dry read on ethics, either. Posewitz fits in hunting stories and anecdotes throughout as examples of how to be a fair-chase hunter.

It’s also a great book for longtime hunters to revisit, offering a platform to expand on one’s own personal notions of fair chase while contemplating the reasons we all head out in the field in the first place.

Read ‘Beyond Fair Chase’

‘H Is for Hawk‘ by Helen McDonald

This is a beautiful book about an interspecies relationship with a primordial hunter. McDonald weaves her way through mortality and relationships while training and hunting with a goshawk.

The writing within this book is both stunning and crisp, and it won, oh, about a billion awards. If you haven’t read it, it’s a killer read, and both the paperback and Kindle versions are under $6 each.

Read ‘H Is for Hawk’

‘Off to the Side: A Memoir‘ by Jim Harrison

If you haven’t read Harrison by this point in your life, shame on you. And if I’d left him out of this list, the shame would be on me.

Harrison is a personal favorite writer of mine for both prose and poetry. And his memoir is fun, elegant, and delightfully twisted in a way that leaves you wishing you were tableside, stories rolling, a fire roaring, a glass of good wine in hand, with bird dogs sleeping at your feet.

He takes on a variety of his personal obsessions throughout. And, to be frank, I’d give this an R-rated review if it was a movie. He does dedicate an entire section to strippers. But he also dedicates an entire portion of the book to his own sporting tradition. And it’s pretty darn spectacular.

Read ‘Off to the Side’

‘Under the Biggest Sky of All: 75 Years on the Rocky Mountain Front‘ by Ron Mills

This book is a bit of an underdog, and you likely haven’t heard of it. But I love it.

Ron Mills is the old West as it lives in this moment, and this book is a gift from that tradition. His life on Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front is full of “campfire and horse sweat,” as the lauded writer Hal Herring puts it in the foreword. And Mills is certainly and definitively not a writer.

But that’s what makes this book so charming and deliriously fun. These are campfire stories, written down. They’re colloquial and cozy, and they’re full of grizzlies, floods, hypothermia, hunting, and much more. He covers the gamut of his life, and it’s just a kick in the Wranglers. Promise.

Read ‘Under the Biggest Sky of All’

‘Arctic Dreams‘ by Barry Lopez

I’ve loved this book for years. My copy is old, it’s ragged, and the edges of the pages are in that tired state of use that shows a certain kind of love for the writing.

“Arctic Dreams” hit the shelves in 1984, yet the book feels crisp, new, and prescient when it comes to the climate issues the Arctic faces today. Lopez digs deep — 496 pages deep — into the life, wildlife, hunting traditions, and cultural world of the Arctic Circle.

Frankly, it’s a spectacular, deliberate, and stunning literary opus that — in my very important opinion — is a perfect example of the highest echelon of writing. Can’t say much more. And y’all, it’s free to read on your Kindle if you have an Amazon Prime membership.

Read ‘Arctic Dreams’

‘A Hunter’s Heart: Honest Essays on Blood Sport,’ Edited by David Petersen

I list this book almost entirely because of the inclusion of my all-time favorite hunting essay “The Heart of the Game” by Tom McGuane. But, of course, it holds a swath of other great writers including President Jimmy Carter, Rick Bass, Terry Tempest Williams, and Ed Abbey.

I’d be doing it an injustice if I didn’t mention that the collection itself is impressive. But McGaune’s essay is particularly perfect. I found it over a decade ago in the collection “The Best of Outside: The First 20 Years.” It categorically changed my former non-hunter views on what hunting could be. And, really, it was the lead-in to my own journey as a sportswoman today.

You can read McGuane’s full essay here, but it’s worth putting it on your shelf. And if you’re putting it there, you’re certainly not making a mistake by having it live in this particular collection of hunting writing.

Read ‘A Hunter’s Heart’

‘The Mindful Carnivore: A Vegetarian’s Hunt for Sustenance‘ by Tovar Cerulli

I love this book for one primary reason: It’s a clear-cut outlier in the world of the traditional hunting story.

Cerulli documents his life as both a vegetarian and an eventual vegan. This book goes through the ins and outs of how our food relates back to the life cycle. It takes the reader through Cerulli’s deeply personal journey of deciding to put his own meat on the table through hunting.

This is the kind of book anyone and everyone can read and understand from an eating perspective. And voices like this have the power to change the public’s relationship with hunting.

Read ‘The Mindful Carnivore’

Cast Iron Cleaning With Electrolysis

Among the variety of restoration tools available to the dedicated vintage cast iron cookware collector, perhaps the most useful of all is cleaning by electrolysis. While a bit more work and expense than other methods to set up, a properly designed and implemented electrolysis tank can remove both rust and build-up in relatively short order.

The term electrolysis comes from two Greek words, and essentially means “to break down using electricity”. Some may remember high school science class experiments in which electrolysis was demonstrated to break down water into its molecular components of hydrogen and oxygen. But an electrolytic cell can also affect the electrodes to which the voltage source is attached, either by adding material, removing material, or both. The process, under conditions of high voltage and temperature, is the basis for electroplating such as that of decorative chrome on automobile parts.

For our purposes, electrolysis cleaning works somewhat like chrome plating in reverse. By connecting the positive and negative wires the opposite of the plating process, you get crud and rust removal.

The most common set up for an electrolysis iron cleaning tank involves a plastic storage container or the like, sturdy enough to be capable of holding eight or more gallons of water, and a car battery charger. You’ll need a piece of metal, either iron or steel, that will serve as a “sacrificial anode” to which the electrical current will flow from the piece being cleaned.

You’ll also need turn the water in the tank into what’s called an electrolyte, making it more conductive so the current will flow more readily through it. For this, we use Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda™ (not baking soda), available in the laundry additives section (medium size yellow box), at the rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Washing soda is primarily sodium carbonate, whereas baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Some people use a swimming pool water conditioner called pH+, which consists of sodium carbonate. Some advanced hobbyists use sodium hydroxide aka lye to achieve a double-acting electrolyte/cleaning solution, but for most, the simpler and less-hazardous washing soda will do.

Gallons of WaterWashing Soda 55-10 T.1/3 – 2/3 C. 1010-20 T.2/3 – 1-1/3 C. 1515-30 T.1 – 2 C. 2020-40 T.1-1/3 – 2-2/3 C. 2525-50 T.1-2/3 – 3-1/3 C.

To properly connect the voltage source, you just have to remember the blacK (negative) wire goes on the sKillet. Also, the battery charger you use must be a manual one, or have a manual charge mode. An automatic charger will see the electrolysis tank as a charged battery and shut itself down.

If you already own a fully automatic charger and don’t wish to purchase a manual one, there is a workaround, although it necessitates the use of a 12V car battery. Hooking up an automatic charger to the battery as if to charge it, you can then use jumper cables from the battery to your electrolysis setup. Current stored in the battery will flow to the pan and sacrificial metal, and the charger will happily supply current to the depleted battery. Heightened care is required using this setup as you must be diligent in properly maintaining the positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative connections between charger and battery. You must also ensure that the positive and negative leads from the battery do not directly touch. Additionally, the terminals and clamps can become hot.

I use a 2amp/10amp switchable manual Die Hard™ Charger from Sears. I understand Sam’s Club has some inexpensive manual chargers as well.

Manual car battery chargers have become increasingly harder to find. Another relatively affordable alternative is a variable DC power supply. Normally used for electronic equipment testing and repair, they offer advantages such as adjustable voltage and current. Set the unit to deliver and maintain a desired constant current (amperage) to achieve the best results.

I place a length of 2×2 wood across the top of my container, and suspend the pans in the water from it with coat hanger wire, attaching the black connector to the unsubmerged tip of the handle of the pan. The other, red connector goes to a piece of air conditioner cabinet steel sheet metal I get from an HVAC guy who often has panels of new, unpainted metal left over from his installations.

Other options for cheap anodes include rebar or used lawn mower blades. Larger steel cans like those for fruit juices with top and bottom removed, cut down the side and flattened are another inexpensive alternative. Anodes with more surface area tend to be the most efficient.

For best results, make sure the connectors make good electrical contact with both the piece being cleaned and the sacrificial metal. Use your wire brush or stainless steel scrubber to remove some of the rust and/or crud at the spot on your piece to which you will be attaching the charger connector.

In the long term, to keep your clamps away from corrosive moisture or being affected by the electrolytic process, you may opt to not connect your charger clamps directly to the piece, instead attaching them to the metal bracket or wire the piece is hung from. Adequate current should still be able to flow if all attachment points are relatively clean, bare metal. Poor connections cause increased electrical resistance and excessive heat. Clean metal-to-metal connections will assure the most efficient cleaning and the least damage to charger leads over time. Charger clamps becoming noticeably hot during use is an indication of poor contact.

Also, don’t be tempted to add more washing soda than recommended; it can cause excessive current and overheating problems which may make the charger shut down or melt cable wire insulation. You’ll know you have good current flowing when you see a mist of fine bubbles forming around the piece and your charger’s amp meter reads towards the upper end of its scale.

The process of electrolysis converts red rust (ferric oxide) to ferrous oxide, sometimes called black rust. The process also both coats and rots the “sacrificial” piece of metal over time, so it will need to be scraped down occasionally, or flipped so that a clean side faces the piece being cleaned. Eventually, it will need to be replaced.

A byproduct of the electrolytic process is the formation of potentially flammable hydrogen gas. It is prudent, therefore, to insure the area around the setup is well-ventilated, or, better, to consider doing it outdoors.

Electrolysis is largely a line-of-sight process, meaning the side of the piece closest to the sacrificial metal will become cleaner first. If you put something between the piece and the metal, a “shadow” of crud will be left on the piece where the object blocked the flow of current from the piece. Some people’s set-ups have metal on both sides, or surrounding the piece for faster action. I just turn the piece around from time to time. Visually, built-up crud loosens, and peels or flakes off like old paint. In some places, it sticks tighter, and takes longer to come off. The red rust will turn into a fine, soft black residue that easily wipes or scrubs off. The process is finished when the metal is bare and gray. Some darker staining may remain in spots that were particularly cruddy, but that’s OK, it can be dealt with.

Tip: If the rust is only on the inside, large format pieces like cauldrons and washing kettles can become their own electrolysis tank. Fill with water and dissolve an appropriate amount of washing soda for the volume. Use a 2×4, a piece of PVC pipe or other non-conductive material as a crossbar and hang a piece of sacrificial metal from it. Attach the negative cable of a manual battery charger to the side of the pot and the positive to the sacrificial anode.

How long does the electrolysis take? Before I started using lye, cleaning an average piece using electrolysis alone might have taken a couple of sessions, maybe 8 hours each. Softening things up with the lye first reduces that to about one afternoon session of a few hours. Hanging the piece to be cleaned as close as possible but without touching the sacrificial metal also tends to speed up the process.

Two identically rusted Lodge #7s, before and after electrolysis:

Other Thoughts

As you read about the usage of electrolysis for cast iron cleaning, you will often encounter a few caveats about the choice of materials for the sacrificial anode.

Many frequent electrolysis users, unhappy with the constant need for anode replacement, have turned to stainless steel, some even going so far as to create a 360° setup by using a stainless steel barrel as both container and anode. The advantage to stainless steel is that it does not corrode as readily as do other types of steel or iron. It is not unusual, however, to see comments that using stainless steel in an electrolysis setup creates a hazardous byproduct called hexavalent chromium. “Hex chrome”, as it is referred to in the electroplating industry, is indeed a problem for those working in that industry, where, at the temperatures and voltages employed, it can be produced, vaporized, and released into the atmosphere. At the far lower voltages and temperatures commonly used for cast iron cleaning, however, hex chrome is not a concern.

Similar warnings are seen against using galvanized metals, and the possibility that zinc may be released into the electrolyte, where it may come into contact with the piece being cleaned. Again, the voltages used should not be sufficient to cause concern.

To avoid the foregoing types of concerns altogether, the use of graphite as an anode appears to fit the bill quite nicely. Graphite is a form of carbon that happens to be electrically conductive, but at the same time is far less reactive to the electrolytic process than the majority of metals. As such, the only thing that it can possibly introduce back into the electrolyte or to the piece being cleaned is plain carbon. Graphite also has the advantage of not becoming coated with iron oxide as do typical metal anodes. It therefore needs no regular cleaning to maintain its performance. Storing the anode dry between cleaning sessions is recommended.

Although not as inexpensive as plain sheet metal or scrap iron, graphite can be had, considering its expected duty life, quite reasonably. Bars, rods, or plates of compressed extruded graphite are available from a variety of sources. Look online for liquidation sales of lots of remaindered graphite forms, avoiding those which mention other materials like copper in their composition.

It is important to note that, over time, any anode material used for electrolysis cleaning will deteriorate and will eventually need to be replaced.

Some users have found a hybrid electrolysis/lye method works well. Using the same concentration of sodium hydroxide as that used for a lye bath as the electrolyte can provide some advantages, including a “dual action” cleaning and increased metal anode life. The same cautions for using lye alone apply (if not more so).

Proper disposal of used electrolyte should include avoidance of soil contamination near vegetable gardens. And, as with any cleaning process, proper protocols should include thoroughly washing and rinsing the cleaned piece before beginning any seasoning regimen.

Finally, electrolysis should only be used to clean bare cast iron ware. Aluminum pieces will dissolve. Enameled cast iron pieces may also have their coatings compromised. Chrome or nickel-plated iron pieces may or may not be adversely affected, depending upon whether or not areas of plating have already begun to release or flake off.

Print Recipe

There’s more to venison than just backstrap, tenderloin and hamburger. Venison is versatile, but it would be a mistake to expect the same results from every part of a deer. Each cut is special in its own right. The cooking suggestions below will help you get the most out of your deer.

Venison Neck

Venison neck is laced with silver skin and oftentimes fat. It’s one of my favorite cuts for slow cooking. All that collagen breaks down with slow, low heat, and takes on an amazing texture that rivals that of pork shoulder.

However, because of its odd shape, I like to use the neck for dishes that call for shredded meat, dishes such as tamales, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, stew, soup and sandwiches. Or try the pulled meat on top of pizza, in pasta sauces or in hand pies. You can also cut off the entire neck, bone-in, and braise it to make pot roast over mashed potatoes.

The most ideal cut of meat for slow cooking requires connective tissue – venison neck provides that.

Recipes for Venison Neck:

• Cajun Smoked Venison Neck
• Japanese-Style Venison and Pork Belly

Venison Ribs

Depending on the size of the deer, you may not get more than a few scraps of meat here. We cut off strips between the rib bones and save it for grinding or filler meat for stew and chili.

If you shoot a larger deer, the ribs could be worth sawing off and braising. Do not cook venison ribs like you would pork or beef ribs; they will dry out quickly. Slow cook the ribs first until tender – covered and fully submerged in liquid – and then finish on the smoker or grill for color and flavor.

During the winter, our Nebraska deer can get quite fat. This fat may or may not taste good, and will determine whether you choose to keep the rib meat. If it tastes okay, a little fat is fine, but when there’s a lot of it, keep in mind that deer fat can have a waxy texture that is not so pleasant on the tongue.

Recipes for Venison Ribs:

• Amazing Venison Ribs
• Wild Game Stock (or Broth)

Venison Shoulder/Chuck

The shoulder is full of great meat for stew, soup, braising and grinding for burgers, chili and sausage. Aside from the “mock” tenders, most of the muscles on this part of a typical white-tailed deer are too small for decent steaks.

Leave the silver skin on for slow cooking – it will turn into gelatin and provide a juicy texture to the meat. If grinding, try to remove as much silver skin as possible. Too much silver skin in a grind will prevent proper binding in your burgers.

Larger muscles can also be shaved thinly for stir fry, fajitas and cheesesteak sandwiches. Also, you can slice the meat thinly to make jerky. Remember to remove as much silver skin as possible for these treatments.

Recipes for Venison Shoulder/Chuck:

• Venison Stew
• Venison Pot Pie
• Ultimate Square Venison Burger

Venison Loin/Backstrap

The coveted venison backstrap needs no introduction. The only rule for this cut is to not overcook it. Medium-rare is best: between 130- and 135-degrees Fahrenheit.

To cook the loin for stunning medallions, remove as much silver skin as possible. Tuck in the tapered ends – if any – and tie the entire piece with kitchen twine, which helps the loin cook evenly and keep its round shape. Allow the meat to rest before slicing to allow the juices to redistribute.

For a more impressive presentation, keep the meat attached to the ribs and saw off for racks of venison chops. For a simpler preparation, butterflied steaks are my go-to. The backstrap can also be sliced, seasoned and marinated to make the most tender kebabs on the grill.

I also enjoy making venison steak tartare with the loin, which is a raw dish.

Recipes for Venison Loin/Backstrap:

• Roasted Venison Loin with Scotch Whisky Sauce
• Bourbon BBQ Venison Backstrap
• Venison Steak Diane

Venison Tenderloin

The tenderloin is the first cut that is usually taken off a deer. This cut is so tender that it should be treated simply – salt and pepper is all it needs, with a quick hot sear with butter on the grill or in a pan.

Do not keep the tenderloins on the deer while hanging and aging. They will dry out quickly.

Recipes for Venison Tenderloin:

• Smoked Venison Tenderloin
• Venison Tenderloin Oscar
• Venison Tenderloin Mini Wellingtons

Venison Rump

The rump offers a small piece of muscle, best for pot roast and stew meat. It can also be ground for burger, chili and sausage. The size and quality of the cut will also depend on how careful you were when cutting the hindquarters from the deer.

Recipes for Venison Rump:

• Venison Fennelise Italian Sausage
• Easy Venison Taco Dip
• Grilled Venison Quesadilla Burger with Guacamole

Venison Hindquarter/Round

The hindquarter is my favorite part of the deer. It’s large and variable, with cuts that are suitable for steak, jerky, braising, stew, kebabs and grinding. The major muscles in the hindquarter are the top round, bottom round, eye of round and sirloin.

The top and bottom rounds are large pieces of whole muscle, great for steaks in young deer or aged deer. The bottom round is usually more tender, especially in the tri-tip area toward the bottom of the muscle. If you find these cuts a bit tough, marinate them first. The rounds also make delicious kebabs and stir fry when sliced thinly. When I’m out of loin, I use the rounds to make steak tartare.

The eye of round looks a lot like a piece of tenderloin. On young deer, this can be a very tender cut. For older deer, marinate it or use it for jerky or for stir fry and fajitas.

The sirloin is a large knuckle of muscles, with a little bit of silver skin throughout. On young deer or aged deer, the sirloin may be sliced for steaks – eat around the silver skin. For not-so-tender deer, this cut is suitable for braising whole, making jerky, as stew meat or ground meat.

Recipes for Venison Hindquarter/Round:

• Southern-Style Honey Barbecue Venison Jerky
• Pineapple and Jalapeño Venison Jerky
• Venison Kabobs
• Grilled Korean Bulgogi Venison Kebabs

Shanks

These long bones look like clubs of meat and are full of silver skin and ligaments near the joints. They’re a massive pain to debone and clean – the muscles are tiny, cradled by an extensive network of connective tissue.

While shanks are not suitable in some treatments, they are absolutely amazing in the slow cooker. Remember the collagen discussed in the neck section? The shanks have even more of it, and when braised, they turn into gelatin, making it the most unctuous cut of meat that exists on a deer. This is where venison osso buco comes from. Savor all four of them.

Recipes for Venison Shanks:

• Venison Osso Buco
• Braised Venison Shanks

Flank

The flanks are thin pieces of meat that stretch between the ribs and hindquarters on both sides of a deer. You can add them to the grind pile or slice for jerky.

Recipes for Venison Flank:

• Venison Carne Asada Marinade
• Homemade Ground Venison Jerky

Click here for more venison recipes

Wild Leeks, also known as Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are a favorite of foragers in the Northeast, and they often make their way into farmer’s market stands throughout the region. Learn how to find, identify and use wild leeks, all while foraging them sustainably.

Ramps are incredibly popular with foragers and home cooks, perhaps because they’re some of the earliest spring greens. Not the earliest by far, as they in close competition with many other spring wild edibles like homemade maple syrup, marsh marigold, Japanese knotweed, dandelions, chickweed, morel mushrooms, and many others.

I imagine part of their appeal is that they’re what’s called a “spring ephemeral” which means they’re a plant that comes up early for a quick 6-8 week burst, and then they die back for the rest of the year. The foraging window is short, which makes them all the more appealing.

Add in the fact that they’ve seen a lot of press in recent years in high-profile places like the new york times, and you have an incredibly popular tiny onion…

Yes, they are more or less tiny woodland onions. Their intense peppery green onion flavor is distinctive and delicious and makes some of the best darn pesto around.

Rams are only available native to the Northeastern US, and growing up in California I’d never heard of them, but a neighbor took me foraging for Ramps shortly after I’d moved to Vermont more than 15 years ago and I’ve been hooked ever since.

You’ll often see bundles of them for sale at farmer’s markets and natural food stores in the spring (late April to Early May), where they’re sold whole (bulb and all). They’re also available online from D’artagnan and from a few shops on Etsy.

These days, with their increase in popularity and slow growth rate, it’s recommended that you only harvest the greens (leaving the bulbs to come back next year).

The leaves are by far the tastiest part, so it’s a better strategy anyway.

What are Ramps?

Ramps (wild leeks) are a slow-growing native wild edible plant that’s found in the northeastern US. They have a unique growth habit, sprouting in the early spring for a quick burst of growth before dying back for the rest of the year.

They’re known as a “spring ephemeral” which means they’re only around for a short time. They grow under mature hardwood forest canopies, and they’ll sprout before the trees have leafed in for the season. During these early few weeks, they’ll soak up as much sunlight as they can before the canopy fills in, leaving them in deep shade.

This short growth window means ramps grow very slowly, and it takes around 7 years for a ramp to reach seed-bearing age. They tend to grow in dense carpets under hardwood trees, slowly expanding the colony each year.

Native Range for Ramps

While ramps are well known throughout the US thanks to positive press, whole foods markets, and fancy food blogs, they are really only grown in the northeast. It is possible to cultivate ramps, provided you have a mature hardwood forest ecosystem with a reasonably cool winter.

(You can buy sustainably harvested ramp seeds here, if you’re interested in starting your own patch.)

That said, their native range is limited to hardwood forests of the northeastern US. They’re also found in some locations in the southern and central US (range map – zoom for detailed view by county).

Identifying Ramps

Wild leek is pretty easy to identify in my opinion. It all starts with seasonality and location. They’re only around for a short window in April and May, and will only be found under hardwood trees.

Ramps can’t compete with other plants in full sunlight, but when hardwoods provide dense shade during most of the growing season, ramps eke out an existence by soaking up all the early spring sunlight before the canopy closes.

Start by looking in hardwood stands in April and May, and they’ll usually grow in dense clusters since little else can live in this dense shade environment.

Ramp plants each have 2-3 leaves with a bright yellow/green color coming out of a red stem. Each plant is small, but it’ll look like a carpet as they grow close in colonies.

The image below shows the base of a wild leek with three leaves, along with the bright red stem leading into the ground. Below ground the perennial bulb is white (but you should leave it there).

If you do try to pull the bulb up by hand, you’ll find it’s almost impossible without a trowel. Ramps are really well-rooted and they don’t give it up easily. The tissues right at the soil level are delicate, and if you touch you can feel the outer layers slip off (like an onion with very thin layers).

Pull a bit harder and the ramp bulb will almost always break off at the soil line (unless you dig it up). That’s part of the plant’s defense mechanism, as they’re predated by deer which could easily pull them up if they didn’t break off with a gentle tug.

That ramp has worked for at least 7 years to make that bulb, so it doesn’t want to give it up easily, to humans or other animal predators.

(I mention this for practicality’s sake since it is honestly an unholy pain to harvest the bulbs, which don’t have nearly as much flavor as the leaves anyway. Stick with the leaves, it’s a more sustainable option, tastes better and it’s a lot less work!)

If the winter was relatively mild, you’ll often find ramp seed heads from the previous year still sticking up on browned stalks. The seeds themselves are shiny, black, and hard in clusters at the top of browned plant material from the previous year.

The seeds can be harvested if you want to start your own ramp patch on wooded land. (They can also be purchased here, harvested sustainably in Vermont.)

The plant’s flower after the leaves have died back, and you’ll see white flowering umbels sticking out of the ground in early summer. They usually set seed by mid to late summer, and you can go back to the ramp patch to harvest seed if you hope to establish a colony elsewhere.

Generally, the seed doesn’t travel far, and each seed head will eventually tip over to land about 8 to 12 inches from the mother plant. That’s one reason for their dense colonies, though they are spread by small mammals too.

The seed is slow to germinate, often taking well over a year, possibly because it’s often held on stiff dead seed stalks for a year or more before it eventually tips over. It’s almost as if they’re sticking out there begging something to come along, scoop up the seed and establish a new patch somewhere else.

Nonetheless, when the seed pods are persistent, it’s an easy way to help identify them. It doesn’t happen every year, and if there’s particularly windy fall weather, intense storms, or just a bad winter they may well all have hit the ground before the next foraging season comes up the following year.

The last identifier is smell…ramps have an intense onion/garlic smell that’s impossible to miss. Gently tear a leaf and it’ll be unmistakable (and your hands will smell like garlic all day).

Ramp Look-Alikes

I’ll put it out there…ramps are pretty easy to identify.

They are a low-growing green plant found under hardwoods with 2-3 bright green leaves, a red stem, and an intense onion-y scent. There’s very little that matches that description, especially in the early spring in the northeast.

That said, every spring plant identification forums are inundated with pictures asking, “Are these ramps!?!?!”

The answer most often is no…because optimistic foragers are really just hoping that anything low growing and green this time of year is actually wild leeks. I’ve seen pictures of hostas…like literally garden hostas in grandma’s flower garden misidentified as ramps (thankfully, hostas are edible too).

There are a number of early spring plants that are toxic though, so you will want to be careful.

There’s a lot of greenery out there in the early spring, more than you’d think looking at lackluster brown lawns in the suburbs that haven’t started re-growing yet. The woods are quicker to rebound, and most of the greenery out there isn’t ramps.

I’d be particularly on the lookout for Lilly of the Valley and False Hellebore, both of which are deadly toxic.

They also look a bit like the Canadian Mayflower, which has edible berries later in the season and is closely related to Solomon’s Plume, and the berries taste much the same. (I have no idea as to the edibility of the leaves in the spring, but it’s a nice thing to come back to later in the season).

Sustainable Ramp Harvesting

Ramps are incredibly well adapted to their growing niche, and they’re still quite common here in Vermont. You’ll see dense patches of them driving around country roads in the spring, especially near sugarbushes.

That’s not the case everywhere though, and in many places they’re over-harvested. They’re actually threatened in Quebec, and their harvest is regulated in some areas.

They’re relatively easy to identify and expensive to buy, so it makes sense to just take to the woods and find your own.

The problem is, you never really know how many other people are foraging a patch (even in the most remote areas). A patch might look huge, but it’s being foraged by dozens of people each year and it’s slowly shrinking given its slow growth rate.

Remember that if you pull up the whole bulb, it’s going to take a seed around 18 to 24 months to germinate and then another 7 years to mature. Pull bulbs every year and you’ll have a problem, especially if many people are harvesting the same patch.

The most sustainable way to harvest ramps is to simply harvest the leaves, and no more than one leaf from each plant. The plants each produce 2-3 leaves a year, so you’ll be able to look as you harvest to make sure there are 1 to 2 leaves remaining so that this slow-growing plant can continue to thrive.

Beyond the pure sustainability angle, there are actually a good number of reasons to harvest just the ramp leaves. The most convincing, in my opinion, is that the leaves are the tasty part.

The bulbs are fine too…but honestly nothing special. They’re more or less like a shallot, mildly onion-y with a bit of crunch. The leaves though, they’re magic. An intense flavor that’s like nothing else, and bright green color to liven up any dish.

For flavor’s sake, harvest just the leaves and then pick up a few shallots at the farmer’s market if you have a dish that calls for cooking with whole ramps.

I’m hoping that a combination of laziness (given that they’re hard to pull), sustainability concerns, and flavor would help convince you to just harvest the leaves. But if you’re still not convinced, there’s one more incredibly good reason to leave the bulbs behind.

Many of the places where ramps grow are pristine wilderness…but some aren’t!

Listening to a podcast interview with Arthur Haines, he explains yet another good reason to exercise enlightened self-interest and leave the bulbs behind:

“Many of the major rivers where wild leeks grow are also home to industrial discharges because there are factories, mills, and other such industries along with them. And many of the things that are produced for these environmental pollutants from the mills turn out to be lipophilic, in other words, they are attracted to fats. And the first place that these environmental pollutants meet up with fats in a plant is in the cell membranes of the roots. There is a lipid by-layer there. And so things like dioxin, and polychlorinated by-phenols, two great examples…they are concentrated in the soils and in the underground storage organs, which includes things like bulbs, corms, roots, and rhizomes of the plants.

Interestingly, things like PCBs are poorly translocated to the aerial portions of the plants. With a couple of exceptions, that means they’re mostly confined to the underground storage organs. Where I’m going with all this, is if you don’t know where those wild leeks were collected, it’s actually a real health insult to you to eat those bulbs because they probably represent the highest level of pollution of that plant.”

Harvesting Ramp Leaves

So even if you don’t buy the sustainability reasons to just harvest the leaves, or quite frankly, just don’t care…there are still really good reasons to stick with leaves.

• Taste better
• Easier to Harvest
• Easier to Clean
• More likely to be Free of Contaminants

Sustainably Harvesting Ramp Bulbs

Does that mean harvesting ramp bulbs is unsustainable? Not necessarily…

Not everything is quite so black and white.

If you’re harvesting a patch on your land that you know for a fact is not harvested by anyone else, and that patch is healthy and thriving, then it’s totally possible to harvest wild leek bulbs sustainably. That’s a lot of ifs…

Even still, given their low reproduction rate, sustainably means harvesting no more than around 5% of the patch on any given year. That may sound like nothing, but ramps patches can be huge.

I know someone whose been farming the same land for 50 years, and it includes a large sugarbush completely covered with wild leeks. He harvests literally hundreds of bundles each spring and sells them at the farmer’s market each year.

The patch has grown over the past 5 decades, and now he’s retiring and turning the farm (and the managed ramp patch) over to his daughter, healthier than when he started.

Just because you see whole ramps at the farmer’s market doesn’t mean they’re necessarily unsustainable, and sometimes it’s best to reserve your judgment. For all you know that vendor has been carefully managing the patch for decades, carefully stewarding it for the next generation.

Ramp Recipes

Ramp leaves have an intense flavor that’s absolutely unforgettable. If you’ve found wild ramps (or just picked them up at the local farmer’s market), you’ll want to make the most of this short-lived wild spring green.

Their spicy green flavor goes well when balanced by fats and rich dishes, and my absolute favorite ways to preserve ramps is by turning them into ramp compound butter and ramp pesto.

Beyond blending the leaves with fats in butter or olive oil-rich pesto, you can honestly use them anywhere you’d use either fresh or cooked green, or anywhere you’d like a garlic-y flavor.

Try any of these tasty ramp recipes:

• Ramp Pasta ~ The Mom 100
• Potato Salad with Ramps and Radishes ~ Relishing It
• Pizza with Ramps & Wild Mushrooms ~ Saveur
• Ramp Lasagna ~ Local Kitchen Blog
• Ramp Jam ~ Saveur
• Bacon and Ramp Viniagrette ~ Saveur
• Ramp and Mushroom Tart ~ Saveur

Ramp Bulb Recipes

If you do happen to have access to sustainably harvested whole ramps, these recipes make use of the whole plant (including the bulb).

• Grilled Ramps ~ Serious Eats
• Ramp Risotto ~ Serious Eats
• Pickled Ramps ~ Practical Self Reliance

Spring Foraging Guides

Ramps are one of the first wild edibles of spring, but they’re not the only tasty thing to find this time of year!

• Spring Foraging: 20+ Wild Edibles to Find in Spring
• 60+ Dandelion Recipes
• Foraging Morel Mushrooms
• Foraging Chickweed
• Foraging Marsh Marigold
• Foraging Plantain Herb
• Foraging Yarrow
• Foraging Nettles
• Foraging Burdock
• Foraging Japanese Knotweed

A lot of hunters use the term “management buck” as an excuse to shoot a deer from their property. Some do it simply because they want to have fun and tag a deer, while others do it thinking that they will help sculpt the genetics in the wild for the whitetails in their area.

Who’s right? In those two scenarios, hunter #1 is right in the fact that he is not shy about wanting to have fun while hunting. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that! What about hunter #2?

Although the desire to want bigger bucks to hunt on a property isn’t a bad thing, it’s misguided if you are shooting bucks as “management deer” with the sole intention of believing you are actually going to modify wild genetics. That’s a topic for another day, but in short, it is simply not possible. The biggest reason why we can’t do a lick about genetics in the wild is simply that a whitetail gets as much as 60 percent of its DNA from Mom. And even then, social stress, nutrition and a litany of other factors make it virtually impossible to manage antlers by bullets or arrows (or both).

So … what is a management buck? For the sake of this exercise, a management buck is a mature (3-year-old or older) deer that isn’t considered a “trophy” by the landowner’s standards. By the time a buck hits this age, he is starting to settle in his ways. In other words, he has found his spot on the landscape where he will spend an inordinate amount of his time throughout the year. We call this “core area” for most properties.

When a buck finds this sweet spot on his overall home range, he will occupy it until he is either booted away by a larger, more dominant buck, or he’s killed (most oftentimes by a hunter).

For most areas in North America, we are talking about properties that are measured in hundreds (if not thousands) of acres when we are talking about the geeky level of deer management when you can actually determine if a buck is “living on your ground.”

Hunting Land is Key to Managing Bucks

I don’t own land, but I’ve been blessed to have had the opportunity to hunt several properties over the years that meet this description. One of them is a sprawling Illinois property that’s managed by my friend (and DDH contributor) Steve Bartylla. Over the past several years, I’ve had the good fortune of hunting management bucks on this property. To me, they are all trophies, because, well, any legal deer is a trophy in my eyes.

What is it about these deer that makes them management bucks? Here are 4 factors that can put a buck into “management” status:

1. They are considered mature (beyond 3-1/2 years old).
2. They have not exhibited the potential to have racks much larger than what they currently have (usually 130 inches or less), in an area that can easily produce near-Boone-and-Crockett-class antlers on bucks of similar ages.
3. They exhibit “bully” behavior during the rut. This simply means these bucks are not wimps, and they routinely suppress the potential of younger bucks with more desirable antler traits.
4. They live in areas of limited buck-rearing cover.

Having a land manager who knows the deer on his property inside and out is the key to identifying potential management bucks. As was the case on my Illinois hunts, I was supplied with trail-camera images of potential management bucks that I might see over the course of a hunt. This was very helpful, but even more helpful was knowing the precise locations where I may or may not see individual bucks.

WATCH: BEST DEER HUNT ENDS WITH SUPER WIDE BUCK

Some folks might view such management as almost anticlimactic when you’re hunting. I don’t. Because, again, if it’s an up-close encounter that makes my heart race; it’s game on!

Here are some more examples of mature whitetails that could very easily be considered management bucks for a hunter/landowner who is managing a large piece of ground in the Upper Midwest. All of these deer are mature, and all of them have exhibited near max potential for antler growth.

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PURSUIT CHANNEL SPOTLIGHT

Don’t Miss Out on a Chance at the “Iron Man Hunt”

My friends at Pursuit Channel are excited to announce their next big giveaway: a once in a lifetime hunt with Real Outfitters in TX . The lucky winner of this hunt, man or woman, will have an action packed 3-days and nights of hunting like you have never experienced before, guaranteed!

This will be classified as a challenging Iron Man Hunt because you’ll be hunting non-stop, day and night (yes, you will get some sleep). You’ll be hunting big whitetail bucks and a doe during the day, and the invasive Axis Deer buck and doe at night or day if needed. You’ll also have opportunities for Feral Hogs, Predators or Varmits, days or nights.

Don’t enter to win this hunt unless you want the hunting experiences you’ll never forget as long as you live. You’ll have some exciting stories to tell your friends and family about. This hunt will be with Real Outfitters in TX. This will be our 3rd trip winner hunt with them and they never disappointed our previous trip winners that have gone there to hunt. The winner can keep all of the meat they want or Real Outfitters will donate the meat to local programs feeding the hungry.

This hunt will be taken January 2 – 6th and food, lodging and guides are included. This hunt will be filmed by USOC Adventures TV Show and air between January – June of 2019 on the Pursuit Channel. Airfare will be provided by the Pursuit Channel.

What’s the best low light hunting scope you should take afield?

I think most hunters can likely agree that choosing the best low light hunting scope can be pretty tough, especially for those who are new to hunting or just don’t know a lot about optics in general.

It’s easy to get overwhelmed when searching for hunting scopes on the internet or when browsing the optics section of a sporting goods store. Even if you get past that initial overwhelming shock of seeing the sheer variety of optics choices billed as “low light hunting scopes,” cutting through the marketing jargon optics companies use to sell their products is a massive task itself.

I know how you feel and I’ve experienced much of that same frustration myself.

Though I’ve never owned a truly bad scope, I freely admit that I’ve purchased a few models that I wasn’t happy with and would not recommend to others. Nobody likes wasting money on a product that doesn’t live up to expectations and finding out you bought a sub-par rifle scope after having high expectations about how it would perform will definitley leave a bad taste in your mouth.

The good news is that we’re living in something of a golden age for hunting optics and the best scopes today are much better than was the case even 10 years ago. Indeed, there is a plethora of quality hunting scopes on the market today that provide exceptional performance at the range and afield.

In this post, I share my picks for the best low light hunting scopes. None of them are perfect, but the right scope can provide a vital edge when you need it most.

This is especially true during low-light conditions when many species of big game are most active. A scope with good low light performance can mean the difference between going home empty handed and punching your tag on the buck or bull of your dreams in a situation like that.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

Feel free to scroll straight through the article, or click one of the links below to jump straight to the best low light rifle scope in the specific category you’re looking for.

Best Value Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $200

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $1,000

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $2,000

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $3,000

Best Overall Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Leupold Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Vortex Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Long Range Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Value Low Light Hunting Scope

Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44mm

I’ll cut straight to the chase: I think the Leupold VX-5HD is the best value low light hunting scope currently available on the market. Not only that, but this is my favorite hunting scope in general. Period.

Why? Well, the VX-5HD has fantastic glass with special anti-reflective coatings to provide outstanding light transmission. Plus, this particular model of the VX-5HD I’m recommending here also uses an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Basically, it’s a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

It works just like a typical scope during the day, but you can turn on that illuminated reticle to aid in aiming during low light conditions. I’ve been in several situations where I had game come out during legal shooting light, but it was dark enough that I had trouble seeing the animals with my naked eye.

Fortunately, the light gathering capabilities of the VX-5HD are so fantastic that I could see much better while looking through the scope.

For example, I successfully and cleanly took a big blue wildebeest with my VX-5 on a recent hunt in Africa at dusk when it was dark enough that I could not see the black crosshairs on his dark body. However, I just turned on the illuminated reticle, put the dot where I wanted to hit, squeezed the trigger, and he dropped at the shot.

There’s no way I could have ethically or practically taken that shot with a scope without that fantastic light transmission and without the illuminated reticle.

It’s also really easy to adjust the brightness of that FireDot reticle as well to turn it up for use during the day if desired, or turn it way down to minimize glare inside the scope for use in low light conditions.

The Leupold VX-5HD also comes with Leupold’s CDS-ZL system and a side focus parallax adjustment dial. Additionally, it has a wide zoom range from 3x all the way up to 15x on the high end that make it well suited for basically any hunting situation you can think of from whitetail in thick timber to open country pronghorn hunts.

This scope is also really well built, tracks beautifully, and holds a zero exceptionally well.

To be fair, the Leupold VX-6HD line has a few additional features that some hunters really like, but I own and have hunted with both. In my opinion, the VX-5HD provides the best balance of size, weight, price, and the features that are most important to me.

And yes, a couple of other scopes on this list provide even better low light performance, but all are considerably more expensive than the Leupold VX-5HD.

All in all, this is a fantastic low light hunting scope that provides high end performance at a surprisingly reasonable price. If that big buck or bull of your dreams steps out of the woods right at last light, you want a scope like the VX-5HD on your hunting rifle so you can make that shot when it counts.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.7 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.93mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-7.7 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Great low light performance
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Great balance of useful features without too many unnecessary “extras”

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE AT EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Low Light Scope For Hunting Under $200

Vortex Crossfire II

The Vortex Crossfire II is a great entry level rifle scope and is exactly what you need if you want a no frills low light scope under $200 and don’t want to do a lot of shopping.

Let’s be realistic here: the Vortex Optics Crossfire II does not provide light transmission or image quality on par with some of the more expensive optics on this list. However, it’s still a capable low light hunting scope for those who don’t need a high performance optic and is a big step up over other lower price point scopes like the Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn.

This is because it has multi-coated lenses that facilitate light transmission and clarity under a variety of circumstances. It’s also available with a V-Brite Illuminated reticle as an additional option for those who want a more clearly defined aiming point at dawn or dusk.

Make no mistake: it’s more than adequate for many hunting situations, especially for hunters on a tight budget. I’d recommend moving up to something a little nicer if your budget allows though.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 13.33mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.44mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch main tube
• Field of View: 34.1-12.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes (optional)

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter
• Good glass

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• Restrictive eye box
• No parallax adjustment dial

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE ON EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $1,000

Zeiss Conquest V4 3-12x44mm

European companies like Zeiss, Schmitt & Bender, and Swarovski (more on the others in a minute) are all known for producing outstanding quality optics in general. You tend to get what you pay for with that stuff though and European optics are also generally very expensive.

Fortunately, the Zeiss Conquest V4 is a great way to get a high quality European rifle scope with excellent light transmission capabilities for less than $1,000. This scope does not have a lot of “bells and whistles”, but it’s still an excellent German scope with great low light performance. Indeed Zeiss advertises that it uses six-layer multi-coated lenses to offer exceptional 90% light transmission and a clear sight picture.

This is not billed as an extremely lightweight hunting scope or one that’s ideally suited for long range hunting situations (look at something like the Zeiss Victory V, Victory HT, Conquest V6, or V8 if you want something along those lines). However, the Conquest V4 is an outstanding choice for a hunter who wants a good low light scope without paying for a bunch of extra features.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.5 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.66mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.66mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 19-4.8 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 50 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Excellent light transmission at a reasonable price
• Very good quality glass
• Perfect for a hunter who wants a good scope without a bunch of “extras”
• Very durable

Cons

• Physically on the large and heavy side
• Smaller field of view
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A ZEISS CONQUEST SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

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Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $2,000

Schmidt & Bender 3-12×50 Klassik

The Schmidt & Bender 3-12x50mm Klassik rifle scope is yet another great low light hunting scope from a European manufacturer. Closely related to the 3-12x50mm PM II USMC model the United States Marine Corps used on their sniper rifles for years, the Schmidt & Bender Klassik delivers a great balance of incredibly clearly glass, exceptional light transmission, and outstanding durability.

Don’t let the price of relative lack of marketing for this scope in the Untied States fool you: this is definitely one of the best low light hunting scopes available and has light gathering and transmission capabilities that perform right up there with some higher end (and much more expensive) models also on this list. Plus, it also has an illuminated reticle to further facilitate precision shooting under challenging lighting conditions.

To be perfectly honest, this scope is so good under low light conditions that it could even potentially get you into trouble by allowing you to take a shot outside legal shooting hours if you’re not careful!

All things considered, the Schmidt & Bender 3-12x50mm Klassik rifle scope is the perfect low light hunting scope for someone who wants the best possible light transmission and incredible durability without any extra or unnecessary features and without spending over $2,000.

Key Features

• Weight: 21.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.4mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 11.1-36.4 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: First
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Extremely durable
• Outstanding glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Great for a hunter who wants an outstanding good scope without a bunch of “extras”

Cons

• On the heavier side
• Higher price point

BUY A SCHMIDT AND BENDER KLASSIK SCOPE FROM EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A SCHMIDT AND BENDER KLASSIK SCOPE FROM OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $3,000

Swaroviski Z6i 2-12x50mm

We can’t talk about low light hunting scopes without mentioning Swarovski. Specifically, I think the Swarovski Z 6i 2-12x50mm scope is the best low light hunting scope under $3,000.

Swarovski optics are known for having some of the absolute best quality glass in the business. Well, the Z6i is one of their higher end scopes and uses incredible glass that provides outstanding transmission while at the same time minimizing glare and reflection.

The Swarovski Z6i also has an illuminated reticle that also facilitates aiming under dim lighting conditions. Users also have the option of adding a custom elevation turret for use at longer range. The wide zoom range combined with the with the large 50 mm objective lens also makes this a very flexible scope with a large exit pupil across a wide magnification range.

Plus, this scope is surprisingly lightweight considering its overall quality and the extra features it comes with.

All things considered, it’s tough to argue with a combination of crystal-clear images, incredible light transmission, moderate weight, and those additional features that make the Swaro Z6i such an excellent hunting scope both for use during the middle of the day as well as at dawn and dusk when things are so challenging.

In fact, someone could definitely make the argument that the Swarovski Z6i is the top overall pick on this list of the best low light rifle scopes.

Key Features

• Weight: 18.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 2-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 25mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.16mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 63-10.5 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Optional Custom Elevation Turret
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Reasonable size and weight
• Outstanding quality glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Higher price point
• No parallax adjustment dial

BUY A SWAROVSKI Z6i SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

BUY A SWAROVSKI Z6i SCOPE FROM EURO OPTIC HERE

Best Low Light Hunting Scope

Tangent Theta TT315 3-15x50mm

If price is no option in your search for the absolute best possible low light hunting scope, then the Tangent Theta TT315 is what you need. A word of warning though: there’s a good chance you’ll never want anything else after you try out a Tangent Theta TT315.

This scope is specifically designed for professional marksman and incorporated all the features most useful in that role. Since those marksmen must look through their scope for long periods of time and depend on that scope to see minute target details, the TT315M has unsurpassed image quality and light transmission capabilities that allow the shooter to see the tiniest details of their target without eye fatigue and under periods of low light.

There are two downsides of this scope though: it’s very heavy and it’s very expensive.

To be perfectly honest, the vast majority of hunters do not need the low light performance of the Tangent Theta TT315 and there are plenty of other great low light scopes that aren’t quite as heavy or expensive. However, this is definitely the best low light rifle scope for those who do want/need that performance and who don’t mind shelling out a bunch of cash for this scope or lugging it around.

Key Features

• Weight: 36.15 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 11.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.5mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 12.8-2.8 meters at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .1 Mil
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Non-translating knobs with elevation zero-stop & mechanical windage direction indicator
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

BUY A TANGENT TT315 SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

BUY A TANGENT TT315 SCOPE FROM EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A TANGENT TT315 SCOPE FROM OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Leupold Low Light Hunting Scope

Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x50mm

The Leupold VX-6HD product line is Leupold’s top end hunting scope lineup and the 3-18x50mm version of the VX-6HD is definitely the best Leupold low light hunting scope. I also think this line contains some of their best rifle scopes overall as well.

This is because it uses outstanding glass with superior coatings that facilitates excellent light transmission. Plus, this particular scope also has an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Just like the VX-5HD I mentioned earlier, the FireDot Duplex reticle is a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

The VX-6HD is basically an upgraded VX-5HD with a wider zoom range (6x instead of 5x), a little bit better quality glass, and a couple of other extra features many hunters like having like a reversible throw lever, an electronic reticle level, and flip up alumina lens covers.

While I think the VX-5HD is the best value low light hunting scope, those extra features and capability of the VX-6HD make it a better choice for other hunters who want a little bit better scope with slightly better low light performance, a couple of extra features, and who don’t mind spending a little bit more.

All things considered, the Leupold VX-6HD is an outstanding low light hunting scope. This scope provides a substantial improvement in low light performance over the VX-Freedom and VX-3HD scope lines as well as a modest improvement over the VX-5HD both overall and in the role of a low-light scope.

The VX-6HD definitely won’t let you down if you need to make a shot under low light conditions.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.9 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 16.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.77mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-6.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Just about every feature you could want on a hunting scope

Cons

• On the large and heavy side
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-6HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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BUY A LEUPOLD VX-6HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Vortex Low Light Hunting Scope

Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×50

Look no further than the Vortex Razor HD LHT if you want the best Vortex low light hunting scope. This scope uses high quality glass, has a reticle with a center illuminated dot, a side parallax knob, and an exposed elevation turret with Vortex’s RevStop Zero System (their version of a a zero stop).

There’s a reason why Vortex Optics markets the Razor HD LHT as “one scope to rule them all” and this scope has much improved low light performance over their lower tier Crossfire, Diamondback, and Viper lines. Not only his the Razor HD LHT a better low light hunting scope, but it’s also just a better performing rifle scope overall.

Indeed, it’s well suited for use in dark-timber on whitetails as well as for open country antelope or elk hunts where precision long range shots may be necessary.

The Razor HD LHT also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Kentron Industries to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load to assist with making long shots on game and at the range.

Finally, the illuminated reticle is especially nice for use in low light conditions where there’s still legal shooting light, but it may be too dark to see the reticle. Just turn on the illuminated center dot, place that red dot where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger. The reticle also works just fine during the daytime when illumination is turned off.

If you want the absolute best Vortex low light hunting scope, then the Vortex Razor HD LHT is just what the doctor ordered.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.8mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 35.3-7.0 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed elevation turret (MOA)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Can order a custom elevation dial
• Excellent glass quality
• Illuminated center dot
• Well suited for a variety of deer hunting situations

Cons

• Busy reticle
• On heavy side

BUY A VORTEX RAZOR SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX RAZOR SCOPE ON EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A VORTEX RAZOR SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Long Range Low Light Hunting Scope

Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56

With a gigantic 56mm objective lens and fully multi-coated ED glass, the Nightforce ATACR is another excellent addition to this list of low-light scopes. This scope also has a large 34mm main tube and a zoom range from 5x all the way up to 25x on the high end that facilitates use at longer ranges.

It also provides over 35 mils of elevation adjustment. This scope is also available in first focal plane and second focal plane configurations. For those reasons, I think the ATACR is the best long range low light hunting scope.

So, this is the best rifle scope for you if you’re looking for something with excellent low light performance that you can also use to reach out to extreme ranges with.

Key Features

• Weight: 39.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 5-25x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 56mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 10.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 18-4.9 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA or .1 MRAD
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

BUY A NIGHTFORCE ATACR SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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BUY A NIGHTFORCE ATACR SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

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NEXT: BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION FOR SPORTSMEN

At some point in our lives, we’ve all probably dreamt about doing an out of state hunt of a lifetime. The call to adventure in a new place, maybe even chasing an animal you’ve never hunted before – it’s a really exciting idea. So why don’t more of us actually do it? Fear of the unknown? Maybe you’re not sure where to even begin? In this article, I will talk about planning a DIY hunt, including all the little details you might not think about. If you do your first trip the right way, we can guarantee it won’t be your last. Let’s dive into this DIY hunting guide so you can start planning!

Research, Research, and More Research

Planning a DIY hunt doesn’t always have to be expensive, but it certainly can be. After all, you may be traveling many states away and non-resident hunting licenses can be costly all on their own. So before you spend all that hard earned cash and invest your precious time, do yourself a favor and do some homework.

Start by deciding on these factors:

• What – what species do you want to hunt?
• Where – where would you like to hunt, what is the ideal setting for your picture perfect DIY hunt?
• How – Will your hunt be a bow or gun hunt, over the counter tag (OTC) or through an outfitter?

Search online for terms like “best DIY whitetail states” or “best states for whitetail deer hunting” (use whatever animal you’d like to hunt). You can quickly find some of the best areas for public land deer hunting and start developing your list of possibilities.

Those of us who like to hunt DIY are often opposed to looking at Outfitters. Don’t dismiss this opportunity. There are many out there who work will do drop camps or even work with landowners to offer a self-guided hunt with a trespass fee. Both of these options will allow you to do a DIY hunt, but can make the learning curve less steep and can actually cost you less money in the long run. They can often provide gear that you may otherwise have to buy and get you in an area where there may be less hunting pressure than trying to figure that out on your own. This can be a great way to learn an area and a species with potentially better success that starting from scratch on your own.

Sources for Help

There are many different resources for you, some free and some for an annual subscription. Some of the subscriptions I have used and are familiar with are Eastman’s, both Bow Hunting and Hunting Journals. These magazines give you access to the Member Research Section (MRS). This not only gives you access to the deadlines, but also rankings of units within a state for a variety of species, including the type of terrain and the amount of public vs. private land in those units.

Worldwide Trophy Adventures (WTA), formerly Cabela’s TAGS, is a service that can help you with your applications as well as front your application fees, for a small fee on each application. You only pay them for the tag if you draw.

The Huntin’ Fool is another great tool. They offer a magazine as well as access to a data base of North America’s premier outfitters and an application service as well. A new service that I haven’t used is Rolling Bones Outfitters. They are coming out with a new magazine, “Hunt The West” and appear to provide a lot of good information, although most of it appears to be through outfitters they have vetted.

There are also numerous websites, DIY blogs, and forums that can give you access to information, but be careful with some of the information gathered here. Trust but verify! I have personally harnessed a lot of good information in blogs like this on purehunting.com, as well as my YouTube Channel. With 6 full seasons of DIY Hunting as well as DIY tips and tactics, the channel is a great resource for DIY Hunting!

DIY Hunt By Species

Here is a list of the most popular DIY western hunting adventure species. These species are listed in order of how popular they are but also ranked easiest to hardest in terms of getting tag/having a successful hunt.

Pronghorn

States to look at: Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Montana

• Helpful Notes: A few states are pretty easy to draw or have OTC options, especially for archery tags. There are opportunities in some states, like New Mexico, to purchase a landowner tag. I have used this option two times and have had a great hunt for a nominal fee. DIY Pronghorn Hunting Tips Here.

Mule Deer

States to look at: Colorado, Nevada, Wyoming, South Dakota

• Helpful Notes: South Dakota has some great options for hunting mule deer, both with a bow and rifle and although there isn’t a true OTC license, many areas require zero points to draw. There is quite a bit of walk in ground (private land open to the public) in the Western part of the state. If you know how to play the system, you can even have an opportunity at more than one tag in a season. DIY Mule Deer Hunting Tips Here.

Elk

States to look at: Colorado, Montana, Wyoming and New Mexico

Colorado has quite a few OTC licenses for archery and rifle and Montana’s general season tag can be an easy draw. The draw odds decrease for limited units in both states. Wyoming and New Mexico have more difficult draw odds.

• Helpful Notes: Colorado has the largest elk herd of any state. The state manages for quantity and not quality for the general areas. The limited draw areas have good quality but may take years if not decades to draw. DIY Elk Hunting Tips Here.

Moose

States to look at: Alaska

• Helpful Notes: Big Game Hunting in Alaska.

Caribou

States to look at: Alaska and Canada

• Helpful Notes: These tags, although not difficult to obtain, will cost you more than the average hunt, even for a DIY hunt because of the travel and out of state or country nature of these hunts. There are lots of opportunities and ways to hunt them, from a river float hunt, outfitter or transporter drop camp to driving the “Haul Road”. Big Game Hunting in Alaska.

Bighorn sheep

States to look at: Montana, Idaho, Colorado

• Helpful Notes: Unless you have a very deep checkbook, these tags are difficult to draw. You won’t even be eligible for a tag in Colorado until you have put in for 4 years. Montana and Idaho have a true lottery system so you have a chance in your first year. Montana does have some unlimited areas. You are guaranteed a tag but there is a small quota in each unit and once it’s met, the area is closed. You need to check your sheep within 48 hours and you need to check the quota status daily.

Mountain goat

States to look at: Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, Idaho

• Helpful Notes: Not many helpful hints here. These are difficult animals to draw tags for and it will more than likely take years to draw one for a DIY hunt. If this hunt is high on your bucket list, it may be worth saving up and going to British Columbia or Alaska and going with an Outfitter. DIY Mountain Goat Tips Here.

Bear

States to look at: Montana, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho

Many of these states have OTC options

• Colorado does not have a spring bear season, just a fall season that starts on September 2nd. Most other states have a spring season and there are options for spot and stalk or sitting over a bait. Some parts of Idaho offer the opportunity for two bear tags in a season. DIY Bear Hunting Tips Here.

Applying for the Hunt

Depending on what states and what species you are wanting to hunt, you really need to dive into when the application deadlines are for the various states. The application deadlines start as early as December in the year prior to when you want to hunt in Alaska, through May. Some states, like Wyoming, have a different non-resident application deadline for elk than that for non-resident deer and pronghorn. Some states require that you pay the full amount of the tag with your application and you will receive a refund, less any fees, if you are unsuccessful. Others only charge an application fee and then will charge your credit card you have on file, if you are successful. Colorado just changed their procedure in 2018. Now you only need to pay a small application fee and don’t need to front the full license fee.

Hunting Regulations and Licenses

Next, it’s time to look at the hunting regulations and license types. It’s not always fun trying to understand a new state’s regulations and tag system, but this can make the difference between hunting next fall or waiting another year.

Maybe one of the states on your list provides over the counter tags for elk, but another state offers only a lottery system. There can be a difference of nearly $400 for out of state elk tags, so if you’re on a budget, this can be a deal breaker or limit your choices. Spend some time digesting the rules and don’t feel afraid to call their wildlife agency to clarify something if you’re confused. My experience has been that most are very willing to help and answer questions. Also, manage your expectations a bit when planning a DIY hunt. If you have never hunted elk before, don’t set unrealistic expectations of a 300 class 6 point for your first bull. Sure, that could happen, but enjoy the hunt and experience and gain knowledge and confidence for future elk hunts. If your bucket list state often takes several years to build preference points and ultimately draw a tag, you’d better get started sooner than later. Alternatively, look to another state that has similar hunting opportunities but a better chance at actually hunting this year.

Where to Hunt

After that step, you’ll need to find an actual place to hunt. While many states (especially western ones) are blessed with lots of public lands, that’s not the case everywhere. And even if there are abundant public lands, it can be a real zoo of other blaze orange hunters during certain seasons. Fortunately, there are ways around these problems.

One way to escape hunting pressure is to simply choose a different season than most others do. For example, firearm seasons tend to be short-lived and full of lots of hunters. But a DIY archery elk hunt (and archery seasons in general) tend to run longer and aren’t always as popular, which may give you a little breathing room. If your schedule allows, you may want to avoid weekends when there are likely to be more hunters out than on a week day. Also avoiding opening weekend can have benefits. You may miss the proverbial first kick and the cat, but there are usually fewer hunters in the field after the opening weekend.

Another way to avoid crowds is to seek out hard-to-access places. The simple truth is that some hunters will choose the easiest option, for any number of reasons. So if you can find a backcountry setting with no vehicle access or a place that’s full of steep topography, you may just be able to have that spot to yourself, at least for a while. Think about hunting right off a main road versus backpack elk hunting – not only are you going to have a better chance at solo hunting with the backpacking option, but it will be much more of an adventure too, which is probably at least one of your reasons for planning a DIY hunt.

Planning Ahead

After you’ve done your research, decided on a place, and bought your license and tags, it’s time to kick it up a notch. This is the time to get really serious because the effort you put in this stage will help shape how successful your hunt is.

Hunting Trip Checklist

Deciding what to take on a hunting trip can be a little tricky sometimes. You don’t want to bring too much stuff and be overloaded, but you don’t want to leave anything behind either. Though many people don’t do it, keeping a simple checklist of the hunting gear you’re going to bring on your trip can save you lots of heartache later on. Imagine arriving at your destination and only then finding out you forgot your quiver of arrows or your best hunting knife. Develop a hunting checklist and check it twice before you even think about leaving home. If you’re hunting with a buddy, or several friends, compare your lists. There are lots of things you will only need one of but would hate to have none if you all forget that one item. If you are going on a backcountry hunt where you will be gone several days, but are driving there, you can take more gear than you need and leave it in your truck, taking only the necessities into the backcountry.

The List of my Usual Hunting Gear and other tools looks like this for most DIY hunting:

• Hoyt Carbon Defiant bow
• Hoyt Carbon Defiant bow
• Gold Tip Hunter 340 arrows
• Razor-Tip Broadhead
• Nock Out lighted nocks
• Hamskea Hybrid Hunter rest
• Spot Hogg Fast Eddie sight
• Spot Hogg Whipper Snapper release
• Browning Shotgun/Rifle
• Browning ammo
• Tenzing TZ6000 pack
• Foxpro Calls
• Heads Up decoy
• Mountain house dinners
• Nite Ize – headlamp and flashlights, S-biners, Gear Ties
• OnXMaps – GPS chips and phone app
• Thorogood boots
• Browning Hell’s Canyon “Speed” clothing
• Somerset pop up camping trailer (if applicable)
• Kuiu sleeping bag
• Outdoor Edge knives
• Vortex Optics
• Marsupial gear optics harness
• Wilderness Athlete – Energy and Focus, Hydrate and Recovery, and meal replacement shakes
• Siberian Coolers

Physical Preparation

During your research phase, you picked out a few hunting locations you’d like to focus on. Keep a few places in your back pocket in case one doesn’t work out. Study these areas on Google Earth®, OnXMaps or other satellite imagery. In many cases, the topography and terrain will be different from what you’re used to. And if you’re planning on backcountry hunting or going hunting by yourself, you’ll have a lot of work to do. That means you need to be physically capable of actually packing an animal out and mentally strong enough to persist through the challenges you could face.

Well before a DIY elk hunt or DIY mule deer hunt, you should strengthen your cardiovascular system and muscles by running, backpacking, or hill climbing. There are lots of great hunting workouts you could use, especially if you try to relate the exercise to the actual hunt. Put yourself in uncomfortable outdoor situations and develop the tenacity to push through it. Practice shooting your bow or gun with a slightly elevated heart rate. If you don’t prepare like this, you could find out that your dream hunt turns into a nightmare that will haunt you forever. Wouldn’t you rather actually enjoy your time off?

Here is a complete blog and video series of different hunting workouts to focus on for western and DIY hunting.

​

The End Game

Let’s say you’ve been planning a DIY hunt for months and suddenly your plan comes together. Just like that, you’ve arrowed a huge elk up on top of a mountain. There’s the euphoria and excitement of it all. But then reality hits: how are you getting it home? Decide ahead of time how you will logistically tackle something like this.

First, research how to quarter an animal if you’re hunting a large species. Learn how to do the “gutless method” of quartering. Bring game bags with you to place the quarters in to avoid flies and dirt from touching the meat. Another tip is to pack a can of black pepper. Spreading this on the exposed meat will deter bugs from landing on the meat. If you’re hunting deer or smaller animals, you can often carry or drag them, or use game carts in less rugged places. Make sure you bring enough coolers with ample ice to keep your wild game meat cold and fresh. The absolute worst way to end such an epic adventure is to have your meat spoil because you didn’t plan ahead.

Hopefully you can see that planning a DIY hunt isn’t all that complicated. It does take work – no doubt about that. But if you feel that yearning to try a new adventure, pursue it now. Don’t wait any longer.

Are you a moose lover and looking for perfect Moose Names? Do you find yourself mesmerized by the sheer magnificence and grace of these gentle giants? If so, then you’ve come to the right place! We have collected 150+ cool and catchy names for moose.

Choosing the perfect name for your majestic moose companion can be an exciting and rewarding experience. Just like naming any other pet, the right moniker can reflect their personality, capture their uniqueness, and deepen the bond between you. But with so many options available, it can be overwhelming to settle on that one special name.

Before diving into the world of moose names, it’s essential to have a basic understanding of these awe-inspiring animals. Moose (Alces alces), also known as elk in Europe, are the largest species in the deer family. They are distinguished by their impressive antlers, humped shoulders, and long, slender legs.

Moose are native to the Northern Hemisphere and are found in various regions, including North America, Europe, and Asia. Despite their massive size, they are gentle herbivores that prefer wooded areas and are excellent swimmers.

In this article, we’ll explore the world of moose names, offering a wide range of options that cover everything from traditional and classic names to creative and quirky ones. Let’s dive into the list.

Best Moose Names

Over 150+ names we have selected 30+ top names that you love. These best moose names are a combination of regal, nature-inspired, and whimsical choices.

Whether you’re naming a toy moose, a fictional character, or simply want to give your love for moose a playful touch, these names are sure to capture the spirit of these magnificent creatures.

• Thor
• Willow
• Atlas
• Luna
• Mornington
• Aurora
• Rocky
• Hazel
• Maximus
• Juniper
• Finnegan
• Stella
• Josephus
• Aspen
• Winston
• Maple
• Hudson
• Penelope
• Moosey
• Everest
• Willow
• Oliver
• Misty
• Mozilla
• Ember
• Angus
• Clementine
• Moosejaw
• Savannah
• Orion
• Mabel
• Buck
• Murray

Cute Moose Names

These cute moose names are perfect for bringing out the adorable and lovable side of these majestic creatures. Whether you have a stuffed moose or a real-life moose friend, these names will add an extra dose of cuteness to their already charming nature.

Pick the one that makes your heart melt and enjoy the delightful companionship of your cute moose!

• Bambi
• Sprinkle
• Marshmallow
• Snickers
• Cinnamon
• Pudding
• Fluffy
• Noodle
• Waffles
• Mocha
• Buttons
• Fuzzy
• Cupcake
• Peanut
• Honey
• Cheeks
• Sprout
• Cookie
• Pebbles
• Lollipop
• Chip
• Snuggle
• Muffin
• Whiskers
• Sparkle
• Jellybean
• Pompom
• Fuzzball
• Petal
• Smooches

Cool Moose Names

These cool moose names are perfect for adding a touch of strength, power, and adventure to your moose’s persona. Whether you’re looking to name a fictional moose character or want to give your real-life moose a cool and distinctive name, these options are sure to make them stand out from the herd.

Choose the name that embodies the coolness you desire and enjoy the awe-inspiring presence of your moose companion!

• Maverick
• Thunder
• Blaze
• Diesel
• Titan
• Zenith
• Jagger
• Eclipse
• Avalanche
• Hunter
• Odin
• Storm
• Magnum
• Vortex
• Blitz
• Orion
• Goliath
• Surge
• Rebel
• Raptor
• Nitro
• Shadow
• Stryker
• Rocky
• Koda
• Maximus
• Ace
• Glacier
• Jet
• Arrow

Funny Moose Names

These funny moose names are designed to bring a smile to your face and add a touch of humor to your moose’s identity.

Whether you’re creating a funny fictional character or looking for a hilarious name for your stuffed moose, these playful options are sure to make you chuckle.

• Sir Moose-a-Lot
• Moose-tache
• Mooseton Churchill
• Moosey McMooserson
• Captain Antlers
• Moo-solini
• Moose-squito
• Monty the Moose
• Moose-efarian
• Moo-dini
• Moosey Malone
• Moose-alicious
• Moo-la-la
• Moose-amus Prime
• Moose-nificent
• Moose-cifer
• Moose-tang
• Sir Horns-a-Lot
• Moose-erati
• Moose-feratu
• Moo-saic
• Moose-terious
• Moolicious
• The Mooseinator
• Deerly Moose
• Moose-a-Tron
• Moose-aphone
• Shaggy Antlers
• Mooster Chef
• Moose-nose

Female Moose Names

These names encompass a variety of styles and characteristics, allowing you to choose the perfect one for your female moose companion.

• Aurora
• Willow
• Daisy
• Luna
• Bella
• Freya
• Hazel
• Ivy
• Nova
• Ruby
• Luna
• Stella
• Athena
• Mabel
• Nala
• Olive
• Pearl
• Quinn
• Rosie
• Savannah
• Tessa
• Uma
• Violet
• Wendy
• Xena
• Yara
• Zoey
• Cleo
• Gia
• Zelda

Baby Moose Names

Baby Moose Names are adorable and playful monikers for young moose. These names capture the youthful spirit and endearing qualities of baby moose, making them even more lovable.

Whether you’re looking for a name for a fictional story or seeking a unique name for a toy or pet, these names will add a touch of charm to your baby moose’s character.

• Sprout
• Bambi
• Pippin
• Caramel
• Gizmo
• Noodle
• Peanut
• Buttons
• Coco
• Willow
• Snickerdoodle
• Marshmallow
• Dottie
• Munchkin
• Wiggles
• Pudding
• Twigs
• Fuzzy
• Poppy
• Sprinkle
• Bouncy
• Fluffy
• Cupcake
• Pippin
• Whiskers
• S’mores
• Olive
• Nugget
• Waffles
• Cookie

Male Moose Names

Male Moose Names are strong and majestic appellations for male moose. These names reflect the powerful and dominant nature of male moose, showcasing their grandeur and magnificence.

Whether you’re looking to name a male moose character in a story or seeking a regal name for a figurine or artwork, these names will add a touch of nobility to your male moose’s persona.

• Thunder
• Atlas
• Maverick
• Titan
• Hercules
• Maximus
• Odin
• Brutus
• Jagger
• Thor
• Magnum
• Caesar
• Apollo
• Ranger
• Diesel
• Moose
• Everest
• Winston
• Jasper
• Rocky
• Duke
• Orion
• Buck
• Angus
• Bandit
• Hunter
• Finn
• Leo
• Asher
• Winchester

Badass Moose Names

• Thorntusk
• Brutus
• Titan
• Avalanche
• Grimjaw
• Vengeance
• Ragnor
• Shadowhorn
• Thunderhoof
• Fury
• Ragnarok
• Warhammer
• Thunderstrike
• Ironhide
• Savage
• Bloodfang
• Stormbreaker
• Goliath
• Wrathbringer
• Thunderstorm

Nicknames For Moose

• Sparkles
• Tinkerbell
• Moosie-Q
• Twinkletoes
• Pipsqueak
• Bambi
• Eeyore
• Jelly Belly
• Petunia
• Jinglepants
• Simba
• Petal
• Spruce the Moose
• Gus
• Pebbles
• Minnie Moose
• Fifi
• Igloo
• Tiny

Famous Moose Names

• Bullwinkle (Bullwinkle J. Moose) – A beloved moose character from “The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show,” a classic animated TV series.
• Chocolate Moose – A famous character from the children’s show “Captain Kangaroo,” known for his chocolate-flavored antlers.
• Morris the Moose – A popular children’s book character from the book series “Morris the Moose” by Bernard Wiseman.
• Mortimer Moose – A character from the “Zoobilee Zoo” TV series, where he was a gentle and friendly moose.
• Mighty Moose – A mascot for various sports teams, often representing strength and power.
• Bull Moose Party – A nickname for the Progressive Party, formed by Theodore Roosevelt in the early 20th century for his presidential campaign.
• Møøse (Monty Python’s Flying Circus) – A hilarious skit from the comedy series Monty Python, known for its absurdity and wordplay.
• Eddie the Moose – The mascot for the NHL team Winnipeg Jets, known for entertaining the crowd during hockey games.
• Moose Mason – A character from the Archie Comics series, known for his adventurous and mischievous nature.
• Alces – A Latin term often used to refer to the moose species.

Conclusion

Hope you have selected your favorite names. Moose Names offer a wide range of options to capture the essence and personality of these magnificent creatures. Whether you’re looking for names for baby moose, male moose, or any other type of moose character, there are plenty of choices that reflect their charm, cuteness, or strength.

These names allow us to connect with moose on a more personal level and bring their unique qualities to life. So, whether you’re writing a story, looking for a pet name, or simply appreciating the beauty of moose, these names will add an extra touch of character and endearment to your experience.

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