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What Air Rifles Are Made in Germany?

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Germany has a long tradition of gun manufacturing, dating back to the 1500s. Today, some of the best air rifles in the world are made in Germany. If you’re in the market for a new air rifle, you may want to consider one of these German-made options.

Umarex

Umarex is a German company that has been making air guns since 1972.

Umarex Sportwaffen GmbH & Co. KG is a German manufacturer of air guns (including Umarex air pistols such as the Beretta Elite II), tear-gas and signal pistols, paintball markers under the RAM brand and airsoft guns, based in Arnsberg, North Rhine-Westphalia. The firm was founded in 1972. Its United States subsidiary headquarters is located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.

Their rifles are known for their quality and reliability. The Umarex Steel Force is a good choice for those looking for an affordable entry-level air rifle. It’s also a great choice for plinking and target practice.

Check out the Umarex Walther LGV Master Pro for something a little more high-end. This rifle is designed for serious air gun shooters and hunters. It features a precision trigger and ScopeStop, which ensures that your scope stays in place when cocking the gun.

Weirauch

Weirauch is one of the oldest airgun manufacturers in Germany. Their guns are known for their exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The Weirauch HW100S is a good choice for an accurate and powerful air rifle. It’s also relatively quiet, making it a good choice for hunting.

The Weirauch HW97K is another great option from this manufacturer. It’s designed for target shooting and features a front sling swivel and adjustable trigger pull.

Hammerli

Hammerli is another well-known German airgun manufacturer. Their guns are used by competitive shooters and hunters around the world.

The Hammerli 850 AirMagnum is a good choice for those looking for an affordable yet high-quality air rifle. It’s also one of the most popular guns among beginners and casual shooters.

For something with a little more power, check out the Hammerli AR20 This gun is designed for serious hunters and competitive shooters. It features a bullpup design and comes with a scope rail mounted on top of the barrel.

Walther

Walther is one of the most famous gun manufacturers in Germany. They’ve been making guns since 1886 and their products are used by the military, law enforcement, and civilians around the world.

The Walther LGV Challenger is a great choice for an accurate air rifle. It’s also relatively quiet and has minimal recoil, making it a good choice for beginners and casual shooters alike.

For something with more power, check out the Walther LGV Ultra Master Pro Target Rifle. This gun was designed for competitive shooters and features an ultra-precise trigger system that can be adjusted to your specific needs.

Diana

Diana is another well-known German gun manufacturer with a long history (the company was founded in 1890). Their guns are known for their quality, accuracy, and durability.

The Diana 48 Sidelever Spring Rifle is an excellent choice if you’re looking for an accurate air rifle that’s easy to cock thanks to its sidelever design. This gun also has minimal recoil, making it ideal for beginners or casual shooters who want to avoid being bruised by stronger guns!

Another great option from Diana is the Diana StormRider. This gun packs quite a punch but it’s also surprisingly quiet given its power.

(For more on the best .22 air rifle on the market, see this post)

Federal Terminal Ascent Ammo Review: Great Accuracy and Performance

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Federal Premium Terminal Ascent — Great Accuracy and Performance
Federal’s initial Terminal Ascent offerings (from l.): 130-grain 6.5mm, 136-grain .277, 155-grain 7mm, 175-grain .308 and 200-grain .308.

An evolution of the legendary Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, Federal’s new Terminal Ascent bullet is a cutting-edge projectile possessing excellent aerodynamics and outstanding accuracy. It offers arguably the most versatile on-impact performance characteristics of all big game hunting bullets.

The short video below shows a hunter taking a Texas aoudad at 600 yards with Federal Custom Shop Rifle Ammo loaded with a Terminal Ascent bullet. Other equipment used: Mesa Precision Arms Rifle, Swarovski Z8 Scope, Silencer Central Banish 30 Suppressor.

Along with factory-loaded ammo for myriad popular cartridges, Federal introduced the Terminal Ascent in component-bullet form. Initial calibers and weights include a 130-grain 6.5mm version with a G1 ballistic coefficient of .532, 136-grain .277 (BC.493), 155-grain 7mm (.586), 175-grain .308 (.520) and a 200-grain .308 (.608).

The Terminal Ascent is basically the fourth generation of Bear Claw-type bullets. Following the original Bear Claw was the composite-tipped, boattailed Trophy Bonded Tip big game bullet optimized for all-around use on deer- to moose-size game.

Third came the Edge TLR, which provided excellent aerodynamics and on-impact performance, but Federal felt it lacked the extraordinary accuracy demanded by today’s extended-range hunters.

Two years of R&D have resulted in the Terminal Ascent, a bullet that shares the ideal impact performance of the Edge TLR and regularly shoots 0.6-inch, 10-shot, 100-yard groups.

Like the Bear Claw, the design features a rear portion of solid copper and a lead front core bonded to the jacket. As a result, no matter how fast it is driven and how close an animal, the Terminal Ascent won’t “grenade” on impact. A good mushroom shape with a generous shank will create a large-diameter wound channel and drive deep—no matter how much heavy bone and dense muscle it encounters.

A boattail enables air to flow around the rear profile with minimum friction and cavitation. A sophisticated heat-resistant, hollow composite tip with a sleek profile further enhances aerodynamics and provides an unparalleled on-impact expansion mechanism.

This composite tip is heat resistant, so it doesn’t erode and suffer reduced, unpredictable aerodynamics like common Delrin polymer may when high-BC projectiles are fired from extreme-velocity cartridges.

Because of the hollow composite tip, which collapses inward on impact and exposes the massive hollow nose of the main projectile, the Terminal Ascent design provides reliable expansion at velocities as low as 1,500 fps—and in many versions 1,400 fps. This means that even when impacting at long range, your bullet will expand reliably and kill cleanly.

To test how easy it is to obtain good handload results with the Terminal Ascent, I assembled 10-round batches for three different cartridges, using an educated guess to pick propellant types and charge weights.

For my Ruger M77 Hawkeye African, I loaded the 130-grain 6.5mm version over 47 grains of Reloder 16 in once-fired Lapua 6.5×55 cases. For the 155-grain 7mm, I loaded a test batch for my .280 Ackley Improved Kimber Mountain Ascent, charging Nosler brass with 59 grains of H4831sc. I loaded the 200-grain .30 caliber version for my Kimber 8400 .300 Win. Mag., charging once-fired, nickel-plated Federal cases with 70 grains of H4831sc.

An all cases I primed with Federal Gold Medal primers. Before seating the Terminal Ascent bullets, I contacted Federal’s tech guru Jared Kutney for some seating-depth advice.

“Terminal Ascent bullets have a secant ogive—some more noticeable than others—but in contrast to standard secant ogive bullets, they do like a little jump. We recommend starting with .050 to .075 inch of jump and adjusting from there. We have found that .060 inch works well for the 6.5mm and 7mm bullets, specifically.”

Following his suggestions but wishing to mix it up a little, I seated bullets in the 6.5×55 test batch .060 inch off the rifling leade but seated projectiles in the .280 Ackley Improved and the .300 Win. Mag. ammo to .050 off the leade.

Three consecutive three-shot 100-yard groups averaged 0.69 inch out of the .300 Win. Mag. Velocity averaged 2,842 fps with a standard deviation of 13 fps. The Ruger 6.5×55 produced superb accuracy as well, averaging 0.77-inch groups for a series of three consecutive three-shot groups at 100 yards. Velocity averaged 3,029 fps with a standard deviation of eight fps.

Finally, I tested the 155-grain 7mm Terminal Ascent in the lightweight Kimber. It has a spaghetti-thin barrel, and it will shoot sub m.o.a. with ammo it likes, but it takes considerably more tuning than heavier rifles.

My handload did not produce sub-m.o.a. accuracy—averaging 1.23 m.o.a. for three three-shot groups—but standard deviation was just 4.6 fps. Average speed was 3,000 fps.

So two out of three of the rifles tested produced sub-m.o.a. accuracy with the first Terminal Ascent handloads attempted—and that was on a day with winds gusting to 15 mph. I’d say that’s downright impressive.

As for the rifle that didn’t, I’m going to work with it. The 155-grain 7mm Terminal Ascent bullet is theoretically perfectly balanced for the .280 Ackley cartridge, and I’m determined to find an accurate load. Judging by the easy accuracy provided by the 6.5mm and .30 caliber versions, I suspect it won’t be difficult.

One other element of the Terminal Ascent bullet line intrigued me. I’m a big fan of the Trophy Bonded Tip bullet and had excellent luck using the Edge TLR in Africa, but I wanted to know more about the AccuChannel grooves around the Terminal Ascent’s shank.

“Solid shank bullets benefit from grooves from a dispersion standpoint,” he said. “Our leading theory is that it makes the bullet more malleable by creating a void into which bullet material can displace when engaging the rifling. The effect is a reduced magnitude of vibration applied to the barrel, and therefore, by way of reduced harmonic reaction of the barrel, a more consistent launch vector from shot to shot.”

There is a drawback, though. “The downside of grooves is the added drag they impart to the bullet in flight,” Kutney said.

However, all grooves are not created equal, and good engineers can minimize adverse effects.

“The AccuChannel provides a smoother geometry from a fluid flow standpoint so as to minimize the drag penalty of each groove,” Kutney said.

How much BC reduction are we talking about? Not much. Comparing the aerodynamics listed for equal-weight Edge TLR and the Terminal Ascent, the more accurate newer version gives up just 1.5 to 4 percent of BC.

I’ve taken a number of animals with Trophy Bonded Bear Claws, Trophy Bonded Tips and Edge TLRs. In every case, terminal performance has been textbook perfect.

Because the Terminal Ascent shares the construction characteristics of its predecessors and adds an unprecedented level of accuracy, it will undoubtedly provide excellent, dependable performance in the field.

Can I hunt deer with an air rifle?

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Air rifles have been gaining popularity steadily over the past several years. This is the result of several factors, such as a shortage of .22LR, an enormous influx of new shooters both young and old, and airguns that have become largely viable for hunting beyond the usual critters and varmints.

Considering all this, it looks like pneumatic hunting is here to stay.

To answer the question regarding hunting deer…YES, you can hunt deer with an air rifle. More and more states have been recognizing advances in technology and have made deer hunting with an air rifle legal. Get the right gear, follow the law, and have a good time.

Now, before investing in any equipment and heading out to fill the freezer, the first thing to do is know where and what you can legally hunt once you have your air rifle.

Of course, there are no federal regulations in place on air rifle hunting, but the same cannot be said about state laws. Not only do laws vary from state to state, but each state can set its own laws and codes on what can be hunted with an air rifle and what cannot.

There are even guidelines on what caliber, speed, and muzzle energy required to be legal in states that do allow air rifle hunting.

In this article, we will break down some of the state laws that pertain to air rifle deer hunting, and what types of equipment are suitable to ethically kill a deer.

State Laws

While it would be excessive to list all the laws for all the states regarding air rifle deer hunting, we will give a quick rundown of states where air rifle hunting has become popular and is legal with some stipulations. As well as some of the states where it is not permitted at all.

It seems to be much more prevalent to be legal to hunt deer in states in the eastern half of the nation, with some exceptions, while the majority of the states west of the Mississippi have prohibited it.

On the east side of the country, Missouri, Arkansas, and Michigan are all legal. So are Kentucky, Tennessee, and all states southeast of them are alright, while nearly all states in the northeast are states that have prohibited the practice, with the exception of Maryland, Vermont, and Maine.

Once you cross ole Miss, the only states where it is legal to hunt deer with air rifles are Idaho, Utah, Arizona, North Dakota, and the great state of Texas.

Texas Laws

Without going into detail on every state’s specific regulations, we will use Texas as our example. The regulations set forth by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department are pretty straightforward and reasonably fair. They state that on permitted public lands, you can hunt deer with an air rifle as long as it meets the following conditions:

  • The projectile must be at least 30 caliber in diameter
  • The projectile must be at least 150 grains in weight
  • The projectile velocity must be a minimum of 800 feet per second
  • OR any combination of bullet weight and muzzle velocity that produces a muzzle energy of at least 215 foot-pounds of energy.

What air gun should I use?

Conveniently these requirements can be met by nearly any air rifle in the Texan line from Airforce Air Guns. The superstar of this line being the Texan .50 Caliber.

This professional-grade air rifle can put a projectile downrange at over 1000 feet per second, with muzzle energy levels that top 650 foot-pounds. This is more than adequate for a humane kill shot in nearly any scenario and at amazing distances.

Why Are The Regulations So Specific, And Why Are They Important?

Air guns function much differently than traditional firearms like shotguns and centerfire rifles. As such, an understanding of the operation and subsequent limitations of pneumatic rifles.

Before you commit to an air rifle, you should do your best to ensure that it meets the state requirements for where you will be hunting. The caliber, speed, and energy levels should all be easily found either through the manufacturer’s website, or the rifle documentation.

Just like with any other legal hunting method, knowing how your weapon exceeds, and how it is limited, is absolutely crucial to reducing or eliminating loss due to wounding and escape.

Different brands will have different specifications for ballistic performance. Other critical factors to consider when hunting with an air rifle are the weight of the bullet, the skill of the hunter, and the distance to the target.

Another limiting factor that is unique to air rifles is the diminishing charge in the air reservoir. After each shot, the amount of air in the reservoir is reduced, thus making each successive shot have its own diminished ballistics.

Eventually, this will necessitate either recharging or refilling the reservoir or air source.

While it is absolutely possible to take big game at distances of 150 yards or more, the ideal effective distance for air rifles is 75 yards or less. After this point, there is a marked reduction in the lethality of the shots from air rifles.

This is vital knowledge for all hunters using air guns because this limitation can lead to wounding loss. Inside this range, shots placed into essential or vital organs, like the brain, heart, or lungs, is still critical to reducing wounding loss.

This is similar to the limitations and shot placement requirements of using other non-explosive weaponry like archery.

The standard practice of waiting approximately an hour for the animal to expire without fleeing should still be observed since the initial ballistic energy is enough to damage the organ fatally but may not prevent adrenaline-fueled attempts to escape if frightened.

Other Important Considerations When Choosing An Air Rifle

Classification

Your state may classify air rifles differently than on a federal level. Federally, air rifles are not considered firearms, but that being said, some states do.

New Jersey for example does classify air rifles as a firearm, and as such, they are bound and regulated by that state’s firearm laws. This extends from purchase and handling through usage during hunting.

Even if a state does not classify an air rifle as a firearm, they may still qualify for the label of “dangerous weapon” which means that felons cannot own them. Other states do not classify them as either firearms or dangerous weapons.

Licensing

Occasionally a state will require licensing for specific weapons when used for hunting. This often delineates between archers, black power weapons like muskets and other muzzleloaders, and traditional firearms. Before you hit the stands, make sure you have appropriate licensing if required in your area.

Caliber

This is one of the main factors to consider for hunters because the goal of every hunter should be to put the animal down and quickly and humanely as possible and reduce or eliminate the subsequent suffering.

As a general guideline, animals with fur should be shot with nothing smaller than a .22 caliber bullet. This is also dependant on species because obviously a .22 is too small to be effective and humane on deer.

The ideal caliber for deer will be an absolute minimum.30 caliber, with .40 being the standard, and the required minimum in states like Missouri.

As we mentioned with Texas, they have a minimum caliber requirement, but the bullet weight and speed can be variable, provided the muzzle energy is appropriate for an ethical kill by being a minimum of 215 foot-pounds.

Velocity

Velocity is important as it figures heavily into the muzzle energy calculation. Even a large caliber bullet can be useless as a humane killing option if it is not traveling fast enough to be effective.

Not only Texas, but Rhode Island and New Jersey have minimum velocity requirements for hunting projectiles.

Seasonal & Animal Restrictions

In most areas, hunting weapons each have their own seasonal restrictions, as well as guidelines on what they can be used during a given season. While it may be legal to use an air rifle for deer during one part of the year, it may be illegal to use it on coyotes during that same time of year.

It is best to check with the wildlife department for the state in which you will be hunting, for the specifics.

Age Limitations And Restrictions

The restrictions on buying and using air guns based on age will vary considerably from state to state. Some states have no restrictions, while some require the buyer to be 16, or even 18, for long guns.

Conclusion

As with anything, do your homework before jumping into something with legal ramifications. With that being said, “airguns” have come a long way and they shouldn’t be looked at as kid’s play anymore. If you spend a little money and buy the right gun, hunting is definitely possible with the capable rifles.

Does it hurt the deer when they scrape velvet off their antlers?

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Discover the truth behind deer shedding their velvet! Unraveling the mystery, we explore whether or not this process causes pain for these majestic creatures. Join us on an enlightening journey as we delve into the fascinating world of antler regeneration and its impact on deer.

The Process of Shedding Velvet from Deer Antlers: Does it Cause Pain?

When male whitetail deer, also known as bucks, grow their antlers during the summer, they are covered in a velvet-like texture. This velvet is a honeycomb, bone-like tissue that provides nutrients and blood supply to the growing antlers. Bucks use their antlers to fight other bucks and mark their territory by rubbing trees. However, during the mating season or “rutting,” high levels of testosterone cause the velvet encasing to die off.

The shedding of velvet from deer antlers does not cause pain to the buck. In fact, it is a natural process that occurs every year. A drop in testosterone after the rut weakens the connection tissue between the antlers and the buck’s head, leading to the antlers falling off. This typically happens in late winter, from January through March.

After shedding their antlers, bucks begin regrowing them during spring and summer months. The new antlers are usually larger than the previous year’s. From August through September, the antlers lose their velvet encasement in preparation for the breeding season. This cycle repeats annually.

During this time of year when bucks are shedding their antlers, it is a great opportunity for shed hunting enthusiasts to venture into wooded areas and search for these dropped antlers called “sheds.” Finding sheds requires first identifying deer signs that indicate deer activity in an area. These signs include tree rubs, scrapes on the ground made by bucks with their hooves, droppings, bedding areas characterized by depressions in long grasses made by deer, tracks, and travel routes marked with hoof prints.

To increase your chances of finding sheds, focus your search around bedding areas where deer rest or sleep, travel routes that are worn paths frequented by deer movement, food plots such as agricultural fields or areas abundant with acorns, and water sources. These locations are more likely to have shed antlers.

It is important to note that shed hunting should be done responsibly and ethically. Respect private property rights and obtain permission before searching on someone else’s land. Additionally, be mindful of your surroundings and take precautions to avoid disturbing wildlife or their habitats.

If you’re interested in learning more about whitetail deer or want additional information about shed hunting, you can visit the Mass Fish and Wildlife website for comprehensive resources.

Remember to share your experiences and findings in the comments section of the Animal Control Corner blog. Subscribe to receive future blog posts directly in your inbox by visiting Weston.org/StayInformed and entering your email address.

Happy shed hunting!

Understanding the Velvet Removal Process in Deer Antlers: Is it Harmful to the Deer?

The velvet removal process in deer antlers is a natural and necessary part of their annual cycle. It is not harmful to the deer but rather a result of hormonal changes. During the summer, male whitetail deer, known as bucks, grow antlers covered in a velvet-like texture. This velvet is a honeycomb, bone-like tissue that provides nutrients and blood supply to the growing antlers.

However, as the breeding season approaches, bucks experience high levels of testosterone during rutting. This surge in hormones causes the velvet encasing to die off. Bucks will then rub their antlers against trees to help remove the velvet and mark their territory. The rubbing action also helps strengthen their neck muscles for fights with other bucks.

Once the testosterone levels drop after rutting season, weakness develops in the connection tissue between the antlers and skull. As a result, the antlers fall off naturally without causing any pain or harm to the buck. This shedding process typically occurs from January through March.

During spring and summer, the antlers begin regrowing and are usually larger than those from previous years. From August through September, they lose their velvet encasement in preparation for the whitetail breeding season. The cycle then repeats itself annually.

It’s important to note that while shedding antlers may seem like an uncomfortable process for deer, it is actually a natural occurrence that allows them to grow new and stronger antlers each year. It is not harmful or painful for them.

If you come across shed antlers while out shed hunting or exploring nature, consider it a fascinating find that showcases this unique aspect of deer biology. Enjoy observing these natural wonders but remember not to disturb or interfere with wildlife during their mating or shedding seasons.

Shedding Velvet from Antlers: Exploring the Impact on Deer’s Well-being

Shedding Velvet from Antlers: Exploring the Impact on Deer

Shedding velvet from antlers is a natural process that occurs in male deer, known as bucks. During the summer months, bucks grow their antlers, which are covered in a velvet-like texture. This velvet is a living tissue that supplies blood and nutrients to the growing antlers. However, as the breeding season approaches and testosterone levels rise, the velvet begins to die off.

The shedding of velvet from antlers does not cause any harm or pain to the buck. In fact, it is a necessary process for their well-being. Once the velvet dies off, bucks will rub their antlers against trees to help remove it. This rubbing behavior also serves as a way for bucks to mark their territory and assert dominance over other males.

After the rutting season, when testosterone levels decrease, the connection tissue between the antlers and skull weakens, leading to the shedding of antlers. This typically occurs in late winter, from January through March. The dropped antlers are called “sheds” and can be found in areas where deer activity is high.

The shedding of antlers allows bucks to conserve energy during harsh winter months when food sources may be scarce. It also prepares them for the upcoming breeding season by allowing new antler growth during spring and summer months. The new antlers are usually larger than those shed in previous years.

Understanding this natural process of shedding velvet from antlers helps us appreciate and respect the well-being of deer populations. Shed hunting can be an enjoyable outdoor activity during this time of year while ensuring minimal disturbance to these magnificent creatures.

For more information on whitetail deer and their behavior, you can visit Mass Fish and Wildlife’s deer information web page. And if you happen to come across sheds or any other interesting finds while enjoying nature, don’t forget to share your experiences with the Animal Control Corner.

Happy shed hunting!

Debunking Myths: Does Scraping Velvet off Antlers Hurt Deer?

Myth: Scraping velvet off antlers causes pain and harm to deer.

Contrary to popular belief, scraping the velvet off antlers does not cause any pain or harm to deer. The velvet is a soft tissue that covers the growing antlers, providing them with nutrients and blood supply. As the antlers reach their full size, the velvet begins to die off naturally. Bucks will then rub their antlers against trees and other objects to help remove the dead velvet. This rubbing action is a normal behavior for bucks during this time of year and does not cause any discomfort or injury.

Myth: Removing the velvet from antlers affects deer health.

There is no evidence to suggest that removing the velvet from antlers has any negative impact on deer health. Once the velvet dies off and is rubbed away, the antlers are fully formed and hardened. They serve as weapons for bucks during mating season and as territorial markers throughout the year. The shedding of the velvet is simply part of a natural process that occurs annually in deer populations.

Myth: Bucks actively seek out assistance in removing their velvet.

While it may seem like bucks are seeking assistance in removing their velvet by rubbing against trees, this behavior is primarily driven by instinct rather than a deliberate attempt to seek help. Bucks engage in rubbing activities as a way to mark their territory, establish dominance, and prepare for mating season. The act of rubbing helps them shed the dead velvet, but it is not an intentional seeking of assistance from external sources.

Overall, it is important to understand that scraping velvet off antlers does not hurt or harm deer in any way. It is a natural process that occurs as part of their annual growth cycle. By debunking these myths, we can appreciate the beauty and wonder of deer shedding their antlers without any concerns for their well-being.

Examining the Natural Shedding Process of Velvet on Deer Antlers: Is there Pain Involved?

The Growth and Purpose of Antlers

Male whitetail deer, known as bucks, grow antlers during the summer months. These antlers are made of honeycomb, bone-like tissue and serve multiple purposes. Bucks use their antlers to fight other bucks during territorial disputes and also to mark their territory by rubbing trees. While the antlers are growing, they are covered in a velvet-like texture. This velvet encasing is eventually shed due to high levels of testosterone during mating season.

The Shedding Process

After the rutting season, when mating occurs, testosterone levels decrease in bucks. This drop in testosterone weakens the connection tissue between the antlers and the buck’s head, causing the antlers to fall off. This shedding process typically occurs from January through March, with dropped antlers referred to as “sheds.” It is important to note that this natural shedding process does not cause any pain or harm to the buck.

Antler Regrowth

Following the shedding of their antlers, bucks begin regrowing them from spring through summer. The new antlers usually grow back larger than the previous year. In preparation for the whitetail breeding season, which occurs from October to early December and is known as “rutting,” bucks lose the velvet encasement on their antlers from August through September.

Deer Signs and Shed Hunting

To find shed antlers, it is essential to locate areas with deer signs indicating deer activity. Bedding areas can be identified by depressions made by deer in long grasses. Travel routes are narrow paths marked with numerous hoof prints. Food plots such as agricultural fields or areas abundant with acorns, as well as water sources, are also prime locations to search for sheds. By observing these deer signs, shed hunters can increase their chances of finding antlers during this time of year.

Conclusion

The shedding process of velvet on deer antlers is a natural and painless occurrence for bucks. Understanding the growth, shedding, and regrowth cycles of antlers can enhance the experience of shed hunting. By identifying deer signs and focusing on areas with high deer activity, individuals can enjoy the outdoor activity of shed hunting in Weston’s open spaces and forested areas while respecting the natural behaviors of whitetail deer.

Shedding Velvet from Antlers: Unraveling the Truth about Deer’s Sensations

When it comes to shedding their antlers, male whitetail deer experience a unique sensation. The antler growth process begins during the summer months, with the antlers covered in a velvet-like texture. This velvet is a honeycomb, bone-like tissue that provides nourishment to the growing antlers. As the antlers develop, bucks use them for fighting other bucks and marking their territory by rubbing trees.

However, during the mating season known as “rutting,” high levels of testosterone cause the velvet encasing to die off. Bucks will actively rub trees to help remove this dead velvet. The drop in testosterone after rutting weakens the connection tissue, leading to the natural shedding of the antlers. It’s important to note that this shedding process does not hurt the buck in any way.

The annual shedding of antlers occurs in late winter, typically between January and March. The dropped antlers are referred to as “sheds.” After shedding, from spring through summer, new antlers grow back and are usually larger than those of the previous year. From August to September, these new antlers lose their velvet encasement in preparation for the whitetail breeding season.

To communicate their presence and readiness for mating, bucks engage in various behaviors such as rubbing trees and scraping the ground with their hooves. These actions leave behind visible signs known as “deer signs.” Tree rubs, scrapes, droppings, bedding areas, and tracks are all indicators that deer are present in an area.

If you’re interested in shed hunting and finding these sheds, it’s essential to look for these deer signs first. Bedding areas can be identified by depressions made by deer in long grasses. Travel routes are narrow paths marked with numerous hoof prints. Food plots like agricultural fields or areas abundant in acorns, as well as water sources, are also prime locations to search for sheds.

Understanding the shedding process and recognizing deer signs can greatly increase your chances of having a successful shed hunting experience. So head into the woods during this time of year when bucks are shedding their antlers, and enjoy the great outdoors while searching for these natural treasures!

For more information about whitetail deer and their behavior, you can visit the deer information web page from Mass Fish and Wildlife. And don’t forget to share your shed hunting experiences or any other interesting nature encounters in the comments section of the ACO Blog.

Happy shed hunting!

In conclusion, the process of scraping velvet off their antlers may cause some discomfort for deer, but it is a natural and necessary part of their growth. While it might appear painful, deer have evolved to handle this process efficiently, and any temporary discomfort they experience is outweighed by the benefits of shedding their velvet, such as improved mobility and readiness for mating season.

Tiger Muskie Fishing | Musky Lures | Rods and Reels

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Last updated on March 11th, 2024 at 02:49 am

best musky lures 2019Are you looking for the best musky lures for 2024 summer musky fishing?

While it is impossible to say that any one single muskie lure is best, we luckily have many great options to choose from when out on the water. Below we will take a look at some of the top best musky lures of 2024, including the best musky lures for trolling, the best musky lures for summer, and the best musky lures for Lake St. Clair and really every musky-rich water body.

When the musky feeding window is open and the stars align, a giant muskie or pike will hit just about anything that moves. In those rare instances, your musky bait selection doesn’t really matter and all one needs to do is to be in the right place at the right time. If you are extremely lucky and dedicated to muskie fishing, you will experience this musky feeding-frenzy type of action once or twice a season.

The majority of your time spent muskie fishing for trophy pike and muskies, however, will be spent casting, cranking, and waiting. The right musky lure presentation will be the difference between a big bite and a follow-up. Therefore, you don’t want to spend all of your time and effort casting second-rate lures. Here is our selection of the best musky lures and northern pike fishing baits available on the market today.

Best Musky Lures 2024

1. Musky Innovations Bull Dawg – Best Musky Lures For 2024

best musky lures for summer - Bull Dawg Musky LuresThe Musky Innovations Bull Dawg musky lure is made of 100% soft plastic. This musky lure, which is balanced with a jig-like head, swims down in the water at a 45º angle on the descent and swims horizontal during the retrieve.

Bull Dawgs can be used as a jig, jerkbait, or a crankbait. While being retrieved, this musky lure rocks back and forth as it’s long curly tail waves frantically, a great combination that tends to drives large gamefish like muskie crazy.

We find this musky lure to be one of the most versatile and best muskie lures on the market today, and possibly the best musky lures for 2024.

Wondering what is the best musky net for the money?

2. Mepps Magnum Musky Killer Bucktail – Best Musky Lures For Summer

Best Muskie Lures - Mepps Magnum Musky Killer BucktailMepps Magnum Musky Killer is a tried and true favorite musky lure, specifically designed to catch and handle hogs. It’s no secret that BIG fish want to eat BIG baits, and the Mepps Magnum Musky Killer is among the biggest!

We consider these to be the best musky lures for summer, especially in the bucktail variety. They are made with all the qualities and features that trophy muskie and pike fishermen look for in a big musky lure for summer. Features such as easy changability, like a heavy #7 solid brass blade allowing for maximum flash, heavy-duty premium VCM 5/0 cone cut treble hooks.

This classic muskie lure weighs in at 1 1/4 ozs. Bucktails are without a doubt one of the best musky lures for summer.

3. Lixada Fishing Lures 5-12″ Multi Jointed Life-Like Swimbait Hard CrankBaits – Best Selling Musky Lure

best selling musky lure - Lixada Fishing Lures 5-12" Multi Jointed Life-Like Swimbait Hard CrankBaitsThese super life-like northern pike and muskie lures don’t carry a fancy brand name, which means they represent one of the best bangs for your bucks when it comes to musky lures. Lixada tends to be the best selling brand of these lures, however. These are also one of the best selling musky lures on Amazon.

These 5-12″ multi-jointed hard plastic musky baits are value priced and will be one of the best accessories in your musky tackle box. These muskie lures have a super realistic appearance and feature life-like swimming actions to provoke monster muskies to bite.

Features of these muskie lures include being 5-12 inches in length divided into 8-segments, double 3 set treble hooks, life-like 3D eyes, high resolution, laser sharp body detail, and a durable ABS hard plastic material ensuring long service life.

These are definitely one of the best musky lures under $25. Their low price makes them one of the best musky lures for sale.

4. Jointed Believer – Best Musky Lures For Trolling

The Jointed Believer is our top pick for the best musky lures for trolling. There are two makers of these style of musky baits that we recommend: Musky Mania and Drifter Tackle. Either one should serve you well when trolling for musky.

Musky Mania Super Believer

Musky-Mania-Super-Jointed-Believer-Walleye-8-Inch-CrankbaitThe Musky Mania Super Believer is a medium running plastic bait with a live action tail crankbait. The live action tail is a replaceable soft plastic.

The flash and swimming action created by the long tail, especially while trolling, gives a life-like presentation to muskies that simply cannot be duplicated by older, more conventional crankbaits. The Super Believer trolls and casts equally well, while running 12′ while trolling and 2′-6′ when casting.

Drifter Tackle Jointed Believer

best musky lures for trolling - drifter tackle jointed believer

The Drifter Tackle Jointed Believer musky lure is one of the most versatile musky baits on the market. It’s shallow and deep eyelet, along with its unique design and shape, enable this musky lure to be fished from topwater down to depths of 20 feet.

For fishing over thick weeds, you can retrieve this lure slowly as a topwater bait. For lighter weeds, you can use it as a twitch bait or jerk bait. You can also cast it into timber, rocks, and heavier cover working it as a crankbait.

Because this lure continues to consistently produce fish, we rank it and the one mentioned above it as the best musky lures for trolling. It has an erratic and unique action which triggers musky strikes from fish that have been presented with everything.

Need a pair of the best musky release gloves?

5. Musky Double Cowgirl Bait – Best Musky Lures For Beginners

best musky lures for beginner - musky mayhem double cowgirl

The Musky Double Cowgirl bait by Musky Mayhem is a classic and very popular big muskie lure. Being one of the easiest musky baits to fish with, we consider these to be the best musky lures for beginners.

While it is similar to the Mepps bucktail mentioned earlier, it does differ in several ways. This muskie bait has two huge #10 spinner blades which create a large amount vibration in the water. The lure’s Flashabou skirting gives it life-like action, a larger profile, and excellent color.

Many would argue that this is the best inline spinner available, because of it’s baitfish simulating action. Being that it easy to work, can be fished in just about any conditions or terrain, is well known to produce huge musky, this is our choice for best musky lure for beginners.

6. Whopper Plopper – Best Topwater Musky Lures

best topwater musky lures - whopper plopperThe famous Whopper Plopper is our top choice for the best topwater musky lures.

The original River2Sea Whopper Plopper was designed by legendary fisherman and television personality, Larry Dahlberg. This topwater musky bait produces a sputtering surface disruption that is begging to be smashed by muskies. While it was originally created to catch musky, Dahlberg and others soon realized that bass were also highly attracted to this bait. Therefore, smaller versions were devised for bass fishermen.

You can work the Whopper Plopper super slow, so you barely hear the tail, only the tiny beads sizzling inside of it. Or, you can speed things up so the lure throws water like a flailing wounded fish. Either way has proven extremely effective.

On calm water days, it is best to run this topwater musky lure slow, as it won’t take much action to draw a muskies attention. On the other hand, during rough waters, speed up your retrieve in order to stand out among the natural water movements.

This surface musky lure casts a mile, and your ability to fish it at a wide range of speeds, makes it a deadly tool for catching musky. The River2Sea Whopper Plopper’s spinning tail is perfectly tuned right out of the box, and it is available in a variety of sizes and colors.

7. Suick Musky Thriller – Best Wooden Musky Lures

best musky baits - Suick Musky Thriller

Back in the day, the original musky lures were made buy guides. The more successful the guide was, the higher prices they could charge for their services.

The first company to successfully make muskie lures that worked for musky exceptionally well was the Suick Lure Company with their “Suick Musky Thriller”, which is for sure one of the best old musky lures. The lure comes in 4”, 7”, 9”, and 10” sizes. Suick Lure Company is still in business today, so they can be ordered and this should be a staple in your musky tackle box.

Now if you study these musky baits you will notice that at the back end is a piece of metal similar to a tail. Here is a little muskie secret that you will learn only here at TigerMuskie.net that your guide will not tell you. Simply put, that metal is adjustable for changing conditions. A lot of anglers just take a lure out of the box and snap it on the end of their line and off they go. The proper way to use muskie lures that have adjustable parts is to test them out first, before you go out fishing. Make sure it is performing how it should be, and that only comes with practice and knowledge that you will gain here.

With the Suick Musky Thriller, we recommend making a slight upside down v-shape with the metal tail. Only bend the tail about 1/8th of an inch on each side. This very subtle adjust will provide much better action out of this lure, and thus produce more fish. Suicks are still definitely the best wooden musky lures.

8. Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck

best-musky-lures-savage-gear-3d-suicide-duck

The Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck is an amazing muskie lure that acts just like a retreating duckling making it perfect to be swallowed up by a giant muskie. This hard plastic musky lure can be fished with either long pulls or steady retrieves, slow or fast, and looks just like a real duckling!

The Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck is conveniently designed to include both a bottom and top hook hanger, which allows you to customize the lure’s presentation based upon current conditions.

Given the lifelike features of the 3D Savage Gear Suicide Duck, it’s no surprise that it was the winner in the Hard Bait category at the 2016 ICAST event.

9. Chasebaits The Ultimate Squid Fishing Lure – Newest Musky Lures

newest musky lures - chasebaits ultimate squid fishing lure-1

We know what you are thinking. “What the heck is that thing?” Well, this is Chasebaits The Ultimate Squid, one of the newest musky lures on the market. Now, before you jump out of your boat, hear us out.

You might be wondering why on earth would a musky want to eat a squid, when there are no squids in fresh water. We challenge you to pose this question to anglers on Lake Michigan who have been using squid baits for years to catch giant salmon and trout on the Great Lake. The truth is, squid baits have proven to be extremely effective, even for freshwater fish.

The Chasebaits Ultimate Squid is by far the most realistic looking and life-like squid baits we have ever seen. These newest musky lures have the potential to catch massive musky. Only time will tell for sure just how effective they will be, but we highly encourage you to give them a shot.

These are definitely one of the coolest new musky lures that we have seen. Their relatively low price also makes them absolutely worth trying.

10. Cisco Kid Topper

best-musky-lures-CISCO-KID-TOPPER

As mentioned above, Suick has been making musky lures for decades. The Cisco Kid Topper is one of their newer, topwater musky baits.

The Suick Cisco Kid Topper looks like a little torpedo and it’s nose and tail features stainless steel propeller blades which create a large topwater disturbance which really gets the attention of any muskies in the area. This great muskie lure can be used at a fast or medium speed to keep the blades spinning properly.

When it comes to the best topwater muskie lures, this is one of our favorites.

Live Bait Musky Rigs

best muskie lures live baitThe old standby for musky fishing is the use of live bait. However, usng live bait musky rigs for fishing presents its own unique set of problems. One of them it that purchasing live bait can be very expensive. Live suckers which are in the 6” range and larger can cost upwards of ten dollars each or more.

Then there is the problem of keeping them fresh. In order to do that, another container must be brought into the boat, such as a five gallon bucket or a Frabill Magnum Bait Station. The larger the bait fish, the less you can carry on board or you will need a larger container. The inherent issue here is to be able to oxygenate the water to keep them alive. The more you have in the bucket, the more oxygen you’ll need to add to the water. The Frabill live well just mentioned comes with an aerator. However, if your bait station does not come with an aerator, you’ll need to pick one up. While musky lures are reusable, suckers are not.

It’s also critical that you select and use a proper live bait musky rig. Not only do you want to make sure that your expensive bait doesn’t get off, but more importantly you want to be sure that you are minimizing the chances of injuring any muskies.

You also have to ask yourself, is the live bait I am using natural bait to the water I’m fishing in? This is not to say that a muskie will not strike at any live bait presentation, but they will strike more frequently to natural bait found in the lake that you are fishing in.

Yes they work, and there are many different hooks, live bait musky rigs, and techniques of how to apply them to the end of your line. We recommend that you watch quite a few YouTube videos of how to properly rig a sucker, or hire a guide for a day to show you how to do live bait musky fishing.

Musky Lures Buyer’s Guide

When it comes to musky lures, there is no shortage of different jigs, swimbaits, crankbaits, and more available to musky fishermen. Musky baits come in all different actions, shapes, sizes, and weights. Some lures are easier to work than others, but when worked properly, each can be very effective.

Musky Lure Types

Over the past 20 years or so the number of different types of musky lures has grown substantially. Thanks to the invention of new materials and manufacturing processes, musky fishermen have been blessed (or perhaps cursed) with a plethora of options. The trend has been towards bigger and bigger musky lures.

There are so many different musky lure types and styles that we can’t possibly cover them all here. But let us take a look at some of the the most popular musky lure types.

Glide Baits

Glide baits can be one of the most effective musky lures any time of year, but they can also be one the hardest lures to work properly. Depending on your preferred style, glide baits can be retrieved fast and erratic or with a slow side-to-side action. We recommend practicing both. There are a lot of styles of musky glide baits, so try out a few different models that you can work properly and like the action of. Learning to properly work the best glide baits takes a lot of practice, but knowing how to do so is crucial if you want to catch more muskies.

Soft Plastics

Despite the fact that most soft plastic musky lures don’t resemble actual fish, they remain arguably the best musky lures of modern day. The reason for this is simple: they consistently catch musky.

Soft plastic musky baits can be cast and retrieved in a multitude of different styles, depending on the the angler and the mood of the fish. Typically, however, soft plastic musky lures are most often retrieved with a “pull, reel in the line slack, pull again” fashion. This manner of retrieve, with the rise and fall action of the bait, resembles an injured or dying baitfish. Nearby muskies will often try to take advantage of an easy meal, which a soft plastic lure can seem to be.

Perhaps the two most popular of soft plastic musky baits are the Bull Dawg and Medussa. There have been some clones of these lures come to market in recent years, and they may work equally as well for less money.

Topwaters

Topwater musky strikes are some of the most invigorating and memorable hits to watch. Once the water of the summer has warmed up, topwater musky lures work like a charm, if you know how to properly work them.

Two very popular topwater musky bait styles are Whopper Ploppers and “walk-the-dog” topwater baits. Whopper Ploppers are very easy to work, and can be very effective with a straight retrieve. On the other hand, “walk-the-dog” musky lures require some practice. These lures need to be retrieved in a side-to-side fashion with as little hesitation in-between pulls as possible, in order to be effective.

Bucktails & Spinners

Bucktails have historically been the most popular lures used by musky fishermen. What makes bucktails so great and effective is that they produce vibrations in the water pattern that a musky can easily feel. Getting the fish’s attention from a distance and triggering it’s bite response are huge advantages to bucktails.

Bucktails can be cast and retrieved at any rate of speed, dependent upon the angler and the conditions. Bucktails come with various size blades, but some of the most popular and effective ones have double 9 and double 10 blades. Musky Mayhem, Llugen Lures, and Mepps are just a few of the companies making some of the best bucktails for musky fishing today.

Warranty

Warranty of musky lures is generally a non issue. Your musky lure is not likely to simply break, or not work, like an electronic device would. Also, musky lures are subject to a lot of abuse, so you would have a difficult time proving to a manufacturer that their lure just broke on it’s own. That being said, if you do experience a problem with a lure, we suggest contacting the manufacturer. Most reputable companies will do what they can to keep you as a happy customer.

You are unlikely to ever need to file a warranty claim with a musky lure. The biggest cause of lose or damage to musky lures comes from getting snagged on rocks or other hidden debris. Nobody likes to lose a $30 lure, but it is an unfortunate part of the sport.

Price

Musky lures are not cheap. If you are new to the sport, you may be shocked to see just how expensive some baits are. On the extreme low end, cheap musky lures can be had for $4-$5. On the high end, you can expect to pay in the $20-$30 range. Custom musky lures from smaller makers can even be in the $50-$100 range.

Unlike a lot of things where higher price can often mean better performance or production, that isn’t necessarily the case with musky lures. A $100 custom lure won’t catch you any more fish than a $15 lure. We would suggest starting with the lower priced lures in the $10-$20 range. As you advance in your skills, you can consider investing in some more expensive musky lures.

Where To Buy

You can buy musky lures at most major big box sporting good stores. However, depending upon your location, the selection may be quite limited. These retailers also have higher markup on their lures, so unless you come across a sale, we don’t recommend paying full retail at a big box store for your musky lures.

Online market places such as Amazon offer a good selection of musky lures at very fair prices. You also can’t beat their customer service and return policy. Facebook musky groups and Craigslist are also good places to get custom or used musky lures at solid deals.

One last place to buy musky lures on sale is musky expos and conventions. These sports shows usually have all of the manufacturers there, both large and small, and you can often get really good deals on musky lures while at the show.

Best Musky Lures Of All Time

Musky lures have certainly evolved quite a bit over the years. From the first musky lures that were handmade, and usually made and sold by fishing guides, who sold them to their customers and local bait shops, to today’s modern musky lures made of high quality plastics and polymers. Some of the best musky lures of all time were copied from those original hand-made guide baits.

Today, some are still handmade, but mostly made by large companies like Rapala and Mepp’s to name a few. It was those first fishing guides who spent hours and hours on the water, studying the habitat, the structure, the shorelines, and water conditions, which provided the basis for their crafting of muskie lures that mimicked the natural baits in the water.

Conclusion

When you are muskie fishing, you are going to have to make a choice as far as what types of muskie lures to put on the end of your line. You have to think about what you are going to put in front of that trophy musky. If you want to get the fish to strike at your presentation, and then get it into the boat, then you are going to need to have a complete musky fishing package. That means the rod, the reel, the line, the knot you tie, the swivels, the musky baits, the leader, the net, and the boat you are using, which are all contributing factors to whether you will be successful or not. Over time you’ll develop an expertise in the proper selection of each and every one of these pieces or musky tackle. These will be the tools of your trade. The tools you’ll use to hone your craft. And that trophy fish won’t be far behind. What we are saying is that yes, lure selection is extremely important, but don’t neglect all of the other aspects of what it takes to land a giant musky.

We have just covered a few of the old tried and true best musky lures of all time. During your musky fishing lifetime you will run across many more musky lures and new innovations. The key to success is to keep trying new things, in addition to learning how to effectively use each of the baits that you already have.

We hope you have found our musky lure buying guide to be helpful. Check back often for updates to our list of the best musky lures.

Best Muskie Lures Comparison

‘It’s a monster!’ Teen catches 108-pound catfish on the Missouri River

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SPANISH LAKE, Mo. (KTVI) – Joshua Jones Jr. is taking it all in after a recent midnight miracle on the Missouri River.

Inspired by a contest, and with support from his father, Joshua made a once-in-a-lifetime catch around midnight Wednesday, reeling in a 108-pound catfish from the river near the St. Louis suburb of Spanish Lake.

Joshua had actually dozed off when the catch happened, exhausted after a long night of fishing.

“I was sleeping when the fish got on, so it kind of woke me up,” said Joshua. “And then I felt the pull and drag, which really woke me up.”

It took about 20 minutes of fighting the line, but Joshua was able to reel in a monster-sized catfish and get it on the boat.

“It was pretty exciting at first when I was fighting the fish,” said Joshua.

He developed his passion and fishing skills through a bond with his father, Joshua Jones Sr. The two have spent countless hours out on the water.

“I had him on the bank before he could walk, trying to catch bluegills,” said Joshua Sr.

A love for angling is something Joshua Sr. learned from his father, driving his inspiration to teach his own two sons.

“I couldn’t wait to have a boy to take out with me and fish and be my best friend out on the river,” said Joshua Sr.

A best friend, also ready to battle the bite. “Take your time. Take your time. Take your time,” said Joshua Sr. recalled telling his son as they worked to tire the massive fish.

Joshua Jr. recalled several instances where he had to grab the catfish with his own hand, guiding it in the right direction. After grueling minutes of toggling with the fishing rod, the small boat’s crew conquered the catfish.

“It’s a monster! It’s a monster!” both said in a video they recorded of the encounter.

What did young Joshua do with his big catch? He took a photo with it, then released it in hopes of entering it into a contest.

“He was determined and always told me, ‘I’m going to catch the record. I want to catch a 100-pound fish, and he caught it,” said Joshua Sr.

“We come out here to fish, but we also come out here to hunt for those big fish,” said Joshua Sr.

They were hoping for a $500 reward in a Mad Katz fishing contest. Joshua Jr. and his father thought they’d be making history and getting a few extra bucks for their bait. Unfortunately, they were disqualified due to a rule violation – judges were unable to visually see the bottom of the net while the pair completed the weigh in.

“A lot of guys search for a fish like that for a long time,” said Joshua Sr.

The whole Jones family has caught countless catfish out on the Missouri waters, but they haven’t seen anything of this size before. Joshua Sr. realizes that no matter how big the catch, fishing is more about the connections.

“To get out here and experience such a thing, to throw a fishing rod, big fish, small fish — a lot of times, it doesn’t matter. Just love the experience itself,” he said.

According to CatfishEdge.com, the largest catfish ever caught in the Missouri River weighed 130 pounds. Greg Bernal caught the catfish in 2010, a one-time world record.

The Stories Behind the Biggest Whitetail Deer—EVER

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They may not be the prettiest specimens on the planet, but then again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And we’re willing to bet you wouldn’t pass up any of these bucks because they were a tad asymmetrical. Some of these deer were taken by hunters who didn’t mind a lot of junk. One deer’s death remains a mystery, while another got “ran over by a damned old train.” Classic country songs aside, these are the stories of the biggest whitetail deer to make it into the Boone and Crockett records.

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Number 1 – Missouri Pick Up

Score: 333-7/8 Location: St. Louis County, Missouri Year: 1981

Its rack weighs more than 11 pounds, and it has more cheaters than a daytime soap opera. But that’s about where the drama ends for this guy. He was found dead inside a fence along a road in northern St. Louis County. A hunter who already had his buck notified the warden who got permission to retrieve it. They couldn’t find any bullet holes and didn’t have any ideas on the cause of death. It was only 5 ½ years old. The head was forgotten until the first of the year when the warden took it to the taxidermist who knew at first glance what he had. It was measured and dubbed the biggest and baddest whitetail of all time. It remains property of the state of Missouri on display for all its citizens to see.

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Number 2 – Ohio Pick Up

Score: 328-2/8 Location: Portage County, Ohio Year: 1940

Taken down by a train, this buck hung in the Kent Canadian Club in Kent, Ohio for years. Dick Idol, an outdoor writer and avid antler collector, acquired the antlers from the club a few decades after it died. He had it officially measured and the entry measurement had it coming in as number one. Idol declared it number one and started to spread the word that a new king was crowned. The buck still had to go before a Scoring Panel at the 19th Awards. The panel score was lower, and the buck was bumped to number two. According to the records, “The slightly lower score…is explained by the necessary interpretation of several points on the beam as being either typical or non-typical.” To be fair, the rack has nearly 200 inches of abnormal points.

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Number 3 – Brewster Buck

Score: 327-7/8 Location: Edgar County, Illinois Year: 2018

Yes, you’ve seen this buck here before, but don’t you think it’s worth another look? This is the biggest free-ranging whitetail ever taken by a hunter, and it was taken by a guy who is no stranger to world-class whitetails. Luke Brewster and his friends are whitetail fanatics with a knack for consistently taking giant bucks. The group called this buck Mufasa and Brewster (who lived in Virginia) was in the right place at the right time on a November morning when the buck stepped into bow range.

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Number 4 – Butcher Buck

Score: 321-3/8 Location: Chase County, Kansas Year: 2019

If you’re scoring a deer like this, it’s best to just clear the calendar and put on a pot of coffee. Brian Butcher had been hunting the same property for 13 years, and in April 2019 his trail camera snapped a photo of this creature. In the fall, Butcher returned to hunt in his treestand on the edge of a CRP field when the buck returned. At 25 yards, Butcher released an arrow. And it was all over—except the scoring, of course. That took a little while.

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Number 5 – Tennessee Tucker Buck

Score: 315-1/8 Location: Sumner County, Tennessee Year: 2016

For two years, Stephen Tucker held the crown of having killed the biggest free-ranging whitetail of all time before Brewster’s Illinois giant fell. Tucker killed his buck on his family’s small farm during Tennessee’s November muzzleloader season. It was, in fact, the second time he’d had the buck within range. The first time he saw it, Tucker had the buck at 30 yards, but his muzzleloader failed to fire. Eventually, Tucker caught up with the buck again.

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Honorable Mention – Bryant Crossbow Buck

Score: 304-3/8 Location: Fulton County, Illinois Year: 2001

Illinois isn’t known for harboring caribou, but the shovel-like eye-guard on this bruiser could have come from the Arctic Circle. Considering that hunter Jerry Bryant wasn’t after caribou or even a deer when he shot the new Illinois state record, the buck is a pretty good blind luck story. Bryant was minding his own business back in 2001 in a treestand on his buddy’s farm enjoying a Twinkie and some Mountain Dew with his trusty crossbow by his side. Because he was injured on the job a few years back, he couldn’t pull back his compound, so he applied and got a special permit to hunt with a crossbow.

A group of gobblers came into view, and when he reached for his bow (he was actually turkey hunting), they spooked and took off. Soon thereafter, a doe cruised by, urinated and moved on. Hot on her tail was Big Buck Jones (seen here). It stopped to sniff her puddle of pee, which gave Jerry a 15-yard slam dunk. The buck didn’t even flinch after being shot through the heart. It took a few steps, wobbled, and died. Jerry kept the news of the buck on the down low as he was going through a rough divorce at the time and didn’t want half his buck taken. Once court was adjourned, he revealed his 36-point buck.

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What to Do with Old Fishing Rods: Recycling Ideas to Consider

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What to Do with Old Fishing RodsLike with any hobby, shopping for gear can be just as fun and exciting as the activity itself.

This is why lots of people end up with multiple tools, especially if their hobby benefits from upgrading and replacing their old stuff.

This is the case for anglers and fishing enthusiasts, so many also wonder what to do with old fishing rods.

If you’re one of these folks who want to declutter and get rid of your old fishing gear without tossing them to the bin, you’re in luck.

We have just rounded up 5 ways to recycle these stuff, so make sure to read on.

What to Do with Old Fishing Rods

1. Turn them into decor.

If you have old fishing gear on hand, it would be highly likely that you’ll thoroughly enjoy the activity and you wouldn’t mind if others knew about your hobby.

If you’re thinking of introducing some elements of this hobby into your interiors, then you easily use your old fishing rods as decor.

Some mount their vintage rods as is to add some rustic vibe to their space.

Others use them as an accent to wall hangings to add more personality and humor to their decor.

If you’re quite creative, you can also come up with your own way of displaying them around your home.

2. Re-use them for gardening.

If your old rods are still in great shape, you can easily repurpose them around the house. Most folks use them as gardening stakes as their flexibility comes in handy for such an outdoor use.

3. Re-use them as shelter rods.

Spinning and fishing rods on an old tableAnother way to repurpose old fishing rods is by turning them into shelter rods.

So if you like to set up your own little shelter when you spend some time outdoors, you don’t have to purchase rods that are specifically made for such purposes anymore.

4. Use for spare parts.

In case you’re the handy type and you would want to have a go at tweaking and tuning the mechanisms of your fishing gear, it would be ideal to hold on to your old fishing rods and reels. This way, you’ll have on hand spare parts for your projects.

Even faulty old rods can still find a lease on new life through this method, so it can be worth a shot.

The only downside is that you might end up hoarding old gear instead of decluttering your collection.

5. Donate them.

Last but definitely not least is donation. There are several organizations that accept old fishing rods, even the ones that don’t work anymore, so they can hand them down to folks who need them but can’t afford them.

These groups often work with the youth, so if you want to inspire younger generations to enjoy this beautiful sport, you should take this option into consideration.

Conclusion

There are lots of great reasons why you should find out what to do with old fishing rods.

Not only will this help you cut down the waste you create through your hobby but it will also let you help others as well.

Choosing the Best Bushcraft Saw: The Ultimate Guide

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If you are an avid outdoors enthusiast or a survivalist, you know that having the right gear is crucial to your success. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is a good bushcraft saw. Whether you’re camping, hiking, or backpacking, a bushcraft or survival saw can be incredibly useful for cutting firewood, clearing trails, and more. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the best one for your needs. In this ultimate guide, we will explore everything you need to know about choosing the best bushcraft saw for survival and wilderness adventures.

What is a bushcraft saw?

Before we dive into how to choose the best bushcraft saw, let’s first define what it is. A bushcraft saw, or survival saw, is a type of saw that is specifically designed for use in the outdoors. It is typically smaller and more portable than a traditional saw, axe, or hatchet, making it easier to carry with you on hikes or camping trips. Bushcraft saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are often used for cutting through small to medium-sized branches and logs.

Why is having a good bushcraft saw important?

A bushcraft saw is a vital tool for anyone who spends time in the outdoors or in the wilderness. It can be used for a variety of tasks, including:

  • Building shelter
  • Gathering firewood
  • Clearing trails
  • Processing game
  • Making tools and other items

Without a good bushcraft saw, these tasks can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to accomplish. Having the right survival saw can make all the difference in a wilderness survival situation.

Best Bushcraft Saws for Survival

Now that you know what factors to consider when choosing a bushcraft saw, let’s take a look at some of the top bushcraft saws on the market:

Agawa Boreal21 Folding Bow Saw – EDITOR’S CHOICE – Best Bushcraft Saw – Overall

The Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is a versatile and durable saw designed for outdoor enthusiasts. The saw has a 21-inch blade that’s made from high-quality hardened stainless steel, making it tough enough to cut through hard wood and thick branches with ease. The handle folds and snaps into place during assembly, without even needing to touch the blade, and the trapezium-shaped frame geometry increases the range of motion while sawing. Additionally, it offers good clearance above the saw blade, allowing you to cut through larger logs without having to change the angle.

One of the standout features of the Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is its folding design. The saw can be folded down to a compact size, making it easy to carry in your backpack or pocket. When you need to use it, simply unfold the saw, and it’s ready to use. The saw also comes with a durable nylon sheath that makes it easy to store and transport.

This saw is also lightweight, coming in at 18.7 ounces. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricier than some of its competitors, but its quality construction, ease of use, and sharp cutting action might just pay off in the long run.

An alternative to the AGAWA folding bow saw is the Gerber Gear Freescape Camp Saw.

Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw – Best Budget-Friendly Bushcraft Folding Saw

If you’re looking for a reliable, efficient saw for your bushcraft trip, the Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is an excellent choice. The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw features a 10-inch blade that utilizes pull-back action. The saw blade’s 3-sided razor teeth easily cut through small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter. The replaceable curved blade folds into the handle and the saw features a safety lock to prevent accidental opening when not in use. The Corona RazorTOOTH Saw Folding Saw also has a comfortable, ergonomic grip that reduces hand fatigue and makes it easy to use for extended periods of time.

The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw is a durable and affordable option for those on a budget. While it may not be suitable for heavy-duty tasks or thicker branches, it is a great choice for most wood-cutting tasks you’ll face in the wilderness.

Silky Bigboy Folding Saw – Best Survival Saw for Thicker Wood

If you anticipate the need to cut down larger branches or small trees on your next bushcraft trip, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw may be the right bushcraft saw for the trip. The Silky Bigboy Folding Saw features a 14.2-inch curved blade made from premium Japanese steel. The laser-cut, extra large blade teeth provide efficient cutting of even dry, hardwood. The handle of the saw is rubber-cushioned for comfort and improved grip.

While it’s one of the larger folding saws on the market, the Bigbog saw weighs in at just 1lb. Overall, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw is a high-quality saw that offers excellent cutting performance and durability. Its large blade size and curved design make it a great option for a variety of cutting tasks, and its lightweight and folding design make it easy to carry and store.

HME Pocket Chainsaw Survival Saw

The Hunting Made Easy (HME) Pocket Chainsaw is designed for convenience and portability. Its compact and lightweight design allows it to easily fold up for storage in a backpack or pocket. Heavy-duty nylon handles provide a secure grip to the 36-inch high carbon steel chain. The chain features bi-directional cutting teeth to help it tackle tough cutting jobs in the wilderness, allowing you to easily cut through branches and logs.

The HME Pocket Chainsaw is perfect for those who will need to cut wood but don’t want the weight or bulk of a larger folding saw or axe.

Sven Folding Saw

The Sven Saw is a classic camping and bushcraft saw that has been around for over 60 years. Available in either a 21-inch blade or a 15-inch blade, the Sven Saw features a unique, all-metal folded saw design. The saws fold into a compact, ruler-like form that’s just 1.5″ wide and 5/8″ thick. The Sven Saws are also very lightweight, with the 21″ saw weighing less than 14 ounces and the 15″ Sven Saw weighing 11 ounces. The Swedish steel blades are crafted to last for 15-30 years and can easily cut through trunks or branches for firewood, clearing trails, and more.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bushcraft Saw

When choosing a bushcraft saw, there are several factors to consider. Here are some of the most important ones:

Blade Types: Finding the Right Saw for Your Needs

The blade is one of the most important components of a bushcraft saw. There are several different blade types to choose from, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Here are a few of the most common blade types you’ll encounter when shopping for a bushcraft saw:

  • Crosscut Blades: These blades have teeth that are angled towards the handle, which makes them ideal for cutting across the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting smaller branches and limbs.
  • Rip Blades: Rip blades have teeth that are angled perpendicular to the handle, which makes them better suited for cutting with the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting larger logs and branches.
  • Combination Blades: As the name suggests, combination blades offer the best of both worlds. They have teeth that are angled towards the handle on one side and perpendicular on the other, making them versatile enough to handle a variety of cutting tasks.

Handle Materials: Comfort and Durability in the Wilderness

The handle of your bushcraft saw is another important factor to consider. It should be comfortable to hold, even after extended use, and durable enough to withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Here are a few of the most common handle materials you’ll encounter:

  • Wood: Wooden handles are comfortable to grip and can be customized to fit your hand. However, they may not be as durable as other materials and can be prone to cracking or splitting over time.
  • Plastic: Plastic handles are lightweight and durable, making them a popular choice for many outdoor enthusiasts. They may not be as comfortable to hold as other materials, but they’re typically very affordable.
  • Rubber: Rubber handles provide a good grip, even in wet or slippery conditions. They’re also comfortable to hold and can be very durable. However, they may be more expensive than other handle materials.
Silky Gomboy Curved Professional Saw

Saw Size and Weight: Balancing Portability and Cutting Power

The size and weight of your bushcraft saw will also play a role in how well it performs in the outdoors. A larger saw will typically be more powerful and able to cut through larger logs and branches, but it will also be heavier and more cumbersome to carry. A smaller saw, on the other hand, will be more portable but may not have as much cutting power.

When choosing a saw, it’s important to find the right balance between size and weight. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be using your saw for, as well as how far you’ll need to carry it, to determine the best size and weight for your needs.

Folding vs. Fixed Blade Saws: Which One is Right for You?

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when choosing a bushcraft saw is whether to go with a folding or fixed blade design. Both types have their pros and cons, so it’s important to weigh them carefully before making a decision.

Folding saws are typically more portable than fixed blade saws since they can be folded up and easily stored in a backpack or gear bag. They’re also generally safer to carry, since the blade can be folded away when not in use. However, folding saws may not be as durable or as strong as fixed blade saws, and they may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks.

Fixed blade saws, on the other hand, are typically stronger and more durable than folding saws. They’re often designed with larger, more powerful blades that can handle heavy-duty cutting tasks with ease. However, they can be more cumbersome to carry, and the blade is always exposed, which can be a safety concern.

Different types of Bushcraft Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires an understanding of the different types of saws available and how they can benefit your needs.

1. Folding Saw

Folding saws are one of the most popular types of bushcraft saws. They are compact and lightweight, making them easy to carry in a backpack or pocket. Folding saws typically have a blade that folds into the handle for safe storage and transport.

Folding saws come in a variety of blade lengths and tooth patterns, which can affect their cutting ability. Generally, they are ideal for cutting through smaller branches and logs. Some folding saws have aggressive teeth for cutting through thicker branches, while others have finer teeth for smoother cuts.

2. Bow Saws

Bow saws are another type of bushcraft saw that has been used for centuries. A bow saw is a type of frame saw that features a long, straight blade attached to a frame that is shaped like a bow. The main benefit of bow saws is their ability to cut through larger pieces of wood quickly and efficiently. However, they are larger and heavier than other types of bushcraft saws, making them less portable.

3. Pocket Chainsaw:

Pocket chainsaws are compact saws that consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles. They are designed to be compact and portable, so the saw can easily fit into a backpack or pocket.

Pocket chainsaws are very effective at cutting through branches nearly a foot in diameter. To use a pocket chainsaw or wire saw, you wrap the chain around the branch or material you want to cut and pull the handles back and forth to make the cut.

4. Wire Saw:

Wire saws are similar to pocket chainsaws, but instead of a chain, the wire saws are made of a length of wire with teeth or abrasive particles. They are very lightweight and can be rolled up for easy storage. The wire design limits wire saws to cutting smaller branches. Since the wire can break or become damaged over time, wire saws are not as durable as other types of bushcraft saws. However, they are an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking or emergency situations.

Each type of saw has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to consider your needs when selecting a saw. When deciding on the best bushcraft saw for you, make sure to consider the portability, field serviceability, comfort, construction quality, and blade material/teeth composition of the saw. Ultimately, understanding these factors will help you make the best choice.

What is the difference between a folding saw and a pocket chainsaw?

The primary difference between folding saws and pocket chainsaws is their design and mechanism for cutting. Folding saws feature a saw blade that is typically hinged and folds into the handle, whereas pocket chainsaws consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles.

Folding saws come in a variety of sizes, with larger ones being better for cutting thicker branches and smaller ones being ideal for more precise cuts. Pocket chainsaws are great for cutting through thicker branches and logs, but they are not as precise as folding saws.

Maintenance and Care: Keeping Your Saw Sharp and Ready to Go

No matter which type of saw you choose, it’s important to take good care of it to keep it performing at its best. This means keeping the blade sharp and properly lubricated, as well as storing the saw in a dry, protected area when not in use. Here are some simple steps to keep your saw in top condition:

  1. Clean the saw after each use. Use a damp cloth to remove debris from the blade, and also from the handle, if it’s made of wood.
  2. Sharpen the blade regularly. A sharp blade is essential for efficient cutting and reduces the risk of injury. There are various methods for sharpening saw blades using files and stones, but you can also take it to a professional sharpener if you don’t feel confident in your own skills.
  3. Inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage. Look for broken teeth, loose screws, and warping of the blade. Repair or replace any parts that are not in working order.
  4. Store the saw in a dry place. This will help prevent rust and other damage caused by moisture.
  5. Oil the blade periodically. This will help keep it in good condition and also make it easier to cut with.

Sharpening your saw blade can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not experienced with sharpening tools. One option is to take your saw to a professional for sharpening, but this can be expensive and time-consuming. Another option is to invest in a sharpening tool designed specifically for saw blades, which can make the process much easier and more affordable.

Taking proper care of your bushcraft saw helps to ensure it will perform its best in the field.

Final Thoughts About Bushcraft and Survival Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires careful consideration of several factors, including blade type, handle material, saw size and weight, folding vs. fixed blade design, and maintenance and care. It’s an important piece of bushcraft gear that is useful for a variety of bushcraft and building tasks.By weighing these factors carefully, you can select a saw that’s well-suited to your needs and will provide reliable performance in the great outdoors.

FAQs about Bushcraft Saws

Q: How do I maintain my bushcraft saw?

Answer: To maintain your bushcraft saw, make sure to clean it after each use, oil the blade to prevent rust, and store it in a dry place.

Q: Can I use a regular saw for bushcraft?

Answer: While a regular saw can be used for bushcraft, it is not ideal. Bushcraft saws are designed specifically for outdoor use and are more durable and portable than regular saws.

Q: How long should my bushcraft saw blade be?

Answer: The length of the blade you choose will depend on what tasks you will be using it for. A longer blade will allow you to cut through larger logs, while a shorter blade will be more portable.

Q: What’s the best blade type for a bushcraft saw?

Answer: The best blade type for your saw will depend on the types of tasks you’ll be using it for. Crosscut blades are generally better for smaller branches and limbs, while rip blades are better for larger logs and branches. Combination blades offer the best of both worlds and are often a good choice for general bushcraft tasks.

Q: Can folding saws handle heavy-duty cutting tasks?

Answer: Folding saws may not be as strong or durable as fixed blade saws and may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks as well. However, they’re typically more portable and easier to carry, making them a good choice for lighter cutting tasks.

Q: Can I sharpen my bushcraft saw blade myself?

Answer: Yes, you can sharpen your bushcraft saw blade yourself using a saw file or a sharpening stone.

Chiltepin Pepper Guide: Heat, Flavor, Uses

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What are chiltepin peppers?

You may be surprised to learn that the chiltepin is actually a pepper native to the United States. In fact, it’s the only one, making it known to many above the border as “the mother of all peppers”. The chiltepin pepper has a rich history in Native American culture. And its tiny size along with its intense (but short-lived) extra-hot spiciness (50,000 to 100,000 Scoville heat units) and smoky, earthy flavor have made it a unique favorite among today’s hot pepper lovers.

Chiltepin pepper

Table of Contents

  • What are chiltepin peppers?
  • Chiltepin fast facts
  • How hot are chiltepin peppers?
  • Where do chiltepin chilies grow?
  • What do they look like?
  • What do chiltepin taste like?
  • Cooking with chiltepin
  • Where can you buy chiltepin peppers?
  • Must-read related posts

Chiltepin fast facts

Scoville heat units (SHU)Median heat (SHU)Jalapeño reference pointCapsicum speciesOriginUseSizeFlavor

How hot are chiltepin peppers?

For such a small size, they pack a pretty big punch. Be careful if you ever get the chance to pop a few of these peppers in your mouth. Chiltepin ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 Scoville heat units (or SHU), with the chance for a bit hotter if a crop had an ideally wet growing season. This makes it equal with Thai peppers in terms of overall heat and roughly six to forty times spicier than your standard jalapeño. Compared to that cayenne pepper in your cupboard (30,000 to 50,000 SHU), the chiltepin begins in heat wear the hottest cayenne stops.

Let’s also compare the chiltepin to another chili that’s often referenced alongside it: the pequin. Pequin chilies are quite a bit milder: 40,000 to 60,000 SHU. Their floor is near equal, but chiltepin can be, at their hottest, nearly double the heat of pequin peppers.

But the heat of a chiltepin is quite different than most other peppers. They zing you with hotness before calming down quickly. Compare that to a ghost pepper where the heat starts seemingly mild and boils over in intensity over time. It’s definitely a different eating experience.

Where do chiltepin chilies grow?

As mentioned, this is the one wild chili native to the United States. It’s found natively in the southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico. For a long time, chiltepin plants pretty much only grew wildly, a treasure of the land. Native Americans adored this chili, and they still do. It’s a food staple and a medicine (due to the capsaicin in the plant).

Rituals were built around the wild harvesting of the chiltepin pepper – it’s something that brought communities and families together. It’s this sort of indigenous North American history and folklore that’s bringing the chiltepin back to the forefront among chilies in America.

Today, chiltepins still grow wildly. The regions of wild growth in the United States are few – totaling 15 locations. But many are all protected national park sites like Coronado National Forest. There are domesticated crops as well, but you’ll find that many packages of dried chiltepins are picked from wild harvests in these regions.

What do they look like?

These are tiny chilies. In fact, chiltepin are sometimes called bird’s eye peppers because of their tininess (not to be confused with the Thai peppers which are also sometimes called bird’s eye chilies.) The chili goes by many other names, too,, including bird pepper, chile tepin, chiltepe, and simply tepin.

Chiltepin are often only a quarter-inch across, so multiple chilies can fit on a United States quarter, and they have a round shape. They follow the common color maturation pattern of most chilies, from green to a beautiful red hue. Overall, they look quite unassuming for the amount of spiciness they hold.

What do chiltepin taste like?

There’s a smoky, earthy flavor surrounding the pepperiness of the chiltepin. And that’s only heightened when they are picked sun-dried from the vine. It’s a common way that these chilies are eaten since they are found natively in the Southwest of the United States.

Cooking with chiltepin

As mentioned, using this chili sun-dried is a favorite for many people. Some simply enjoy this wild North American chili, sun-dried, straight off the vine. Just pop a pepper in your mouth for an intense experience.

And even though these peppers are small, people still cook with them. Chiltepins, in both their dried and fresh forms, are often mixed in with sauces and salsas. They are also ground into powders for spices. They even make their way into spicy desserts. A favorite for many is pickled chiltepins. When pickled, the chili is mixed with other spices to create one of the most unique condiments imaginable.

And, of course, chiltepin are a favorite for Tex-Mex and authentic Mexican foods of all types. It’s an excellent chili for burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and more.

More cooking tips:

  • When cutting into chiltepin, handle with care. The heat level of these chilies is low enough that you can typically handle them whole without concern for chili burn. But cutting into any chiltepin, like with any chili, releases the capsaicin (the compound that creates the spiciness.) Wear gloves when cutting them to keep the potential for pretty significant chili burn at bay.
  • Use sparingly, then add as you like. The small size of chiltepin can really fool you into overusing them. That’s especially true if you’re swapping chiltepin into a recipe that called for larger chilies. Don’t think that you need to match size for size (like five chiltepin for one jalapeño.) You’ll be in for a surprising amount of spiciness.
  • Chiltepin are also an excellent chili for read meats and barbecue. It’s that earthy, smoky flavor. It maps very well to the bolder tastes you get from grilled steaks and heavily marinated meats and bolder barbecue sides.

Where can you buy chiltepin peppers?

You won’t often find these peppers in a grocery store outside of the southwestern United States, that’s for sure. And even specialty stores may not carry them. But you’ll definitely find them online, along with chiltepin seeds, whole chilies, and other products.

With its rich North American history and surprising taste, the chiltepin is no longer a forgotten pepper. If you’re a chilihead, exploring what this pepper has to offer is an interesting way to experience both one of the earliest known peppers as well as the rich Native American history of the United States. It may be tiny, but its significance is grand.

Must-read related posts

  • The Hot Pepper List: The chiltepin is only one of over 150 chilies we profile here at PepperScale. Our list lets you filter chilies by spiciness, flavor, origin, use, and more.
  • Small Peppers Guide – Tiny Delivers Big: This chili is among the smallest on the Scoville scale. Which others share that distinction? Take a look.
  • Our Hot Sauce Rankings: We rank over 100 hot sauces, covering overall flavor, heat balance, usability, and collectibility. Explore the rankings and even sort by the chilies used.
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