Sometimes nostalgia corrupts your remembrances. Things I enjoyed in my youth are fondly remembered, but I no longer have to deal with them.
My new six-speed automatic Jeep is so much more reliable and easier to drive than my Dad’s old Jeep panel truck, but I fondly remember the old jeep.
I grew up with double-barrel and pump-action shotguns. While they were useful and still are, the Panzer Arms BP-12 Bullpup is something from a different century.
This shotgun is a self-loader with a five-round detachable box magazine. I have several shotguns that do not even accept a light or optics mount of any type.
The BP-12 has several inches of real estate for mounting lights or optics. The bullpup configuration was first used in rifles and only much later has it become popular in shotguns.
The design places the receiver behind the shooter’s face and the firing grip forward. This allows for a relatively long barrel in a short package.
The BP-12 doesn’t point like a standard shotgun, as the balance of the piece is very different than a standard-design shotgun. The shotgun’s natural point is quite different than a bullpup.
The bullpup must be handled like a rifle and driven toward the target like a rifle and aimed with more care than the usual shotgun.
While modern and effective, a bullpup must be learned and handled decisively to be effective.
When you are firing the shotgun, your cheek is closer to the receiver than with most shotguns. Muzzle signature is more evident.
The Panzer Arms BP-12 shotgun isn’t difficult to use well, but these differences simply must be understood. The person who learns to use the shotgun well will find it a very effective firearm.
Those who do not care to practice and learn should choose a simpler firearm. The primary difference between this shotgun and others is that the firing grip is far ahead of the action.
The trigger bar goes through some tangents and this means the trigger will never be as nice as a standard-design shotgun, but then a crisp trigger is part of very few shotgun designs.
Learning to use the bolt release and magazine release isn’t difficult. Simply put aside time for dry-fire practice.
A few words on the shotgun’s quality of manufacture: the fit, finish and machining impress. The hardware fits well and the finish is always even.
The shotgun is delivered with AR-15 type sights, two magazines that hold five 12-gauge shells, and a cheek riser to allow the use of optical sights.
If you are using iron sights, then remove the cheek riser. There are two adjustment rings supplied with the shotgun that must be fitted after partial disassembly in order to change between standard and high-velocity loads.
The cocking handle may be reversed to allow racking from either side. Most right-handed shooters will have the cocking handle on the left side of the receiver.
The bolt handle allows plenty of leverage, racking the bolt isn’t difficult at all.
The fit, finish and function of the shotgun are all impressive.
Other Performance Notes
Simply load the magazine with shells, slipping the shells under the feel lips and pressing them straight to the rear. I always tap magazines on a boot heel or hard surface to seat the shells.
This ensures feed reliability. Then, angle the magazines in the magazine well and be certain it is properly seated. Rack bolt to load the first shell and you are good to go for firing.
The safety lever is easy enough to manipulate. When firing the shotgun, it seems recoil is easier to manage than with a standard-configuration shotgun.
Fire, get the sights back on target and hit the target again. The large peep sights make for excellent high probability. The shotgun was fired with a variety of loads.
Some did not function properly. Panzer Arms states that a break-in period of up to 100 full-power shells may be needed. This seems reasonable.
There are a number of truly formidable 12-gauge shotgun loadings.
Other tightly-fitted firearms require a modest break-in. Some full-power shells did not function properly, with the occasional short cycle, while some types came out of the box running.
Fiocchi full-power Aero slugs functioned and so did Remington full-power buckshot. Reduced-recoil loads will not function, at least with the full-power ring installed and during the initial break-in period.
Incidentally, during the test, I dropped a fully-loaded all-steel magazine on the concrete walk of the firing range. The magazine was scuffed of course, but not dented and it never failed to feed properly.
After the initial test, I would load full-power Remington Power Piston loads and rest easy. The shotgun is supplied with three choke tubes for open, modified and full choke use.
I like this option in a combat shotgun. I like to have a shotgun that delivers a solid hit with the buckshot load to at least 20 yards. These choke tubes are Mobil types and are nice to have.
Conclusion: Panzer Arms BP-12
I like the Panzer Arms shotgun. It is well-made and should prove to be a formidable defender for the home or ranch.
What do you think of the Panzer Arms BP-12? Do you like bullpup shotguns? Let us know in the comments below!
(Like this shotgun? You might also like the Kel-Tec KSG Pump-Action Shotgun. Read our range report on the firearm here.)
If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best varmint scope:
Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15
Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223
Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR
Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money
Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250
1. Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15
Every once in a while a really high-end company will listen to the masses and make a product that’s top of the line while still being affordable.
This is one of those times.
Nightforce is well known as the pinnacle of high-end precision scopes.
Their scopes are so tough that one literally took a bullet through the scope in the middle of combat and it kept working.
That’s a level of quality you’re just not going to see on a budget scope.
The average firearm owner is finally in luck though, because Nightforce has released the Nightforce SHV.
This is the perfect AR-15 varmint scope.
It’s got all of the quality, most of the features, and it’s a third of the price.
Keep reading and I’ll tell you exactly why you need to add this scope to your collection.
Glass Clarity & Reticle
The glass on this lens is pristine.
The clarity even when cranked up to 20x power is unbelievable.
The FOV is huge and the edge to edge images have incredible color contrast.
I’ve used this scope to look out to 1,000 yards and I could still see everything clearly like it was right in front of me.
The glass is fully multi-coated and thanks to that it has super high light transmissions.
Whether you’re shooting in full daylight, dawn, dusk, or anywhere in between you’ll be able to see everything you’re aiming at.
The Nightforce SHV comes with an etched SFP MOAR reticle which you can choose to have illuminated or not.
You want the illuminated option.
Without it, you’re not going to be able to see at 20x power at dawn or dusk.
With it though, it makes sighting and zeroing a breeze.
Some people aren’t fans of the extra hash marks on the MOAR reticle, and if you’re one of them you can get an IHR reticle on it instead.
Either way, if you’re shooting in low light often get the illuminated reticle.
It eliminates distortion due to low light conditions and it’s gonna make your life easier.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The eye relief is 3.15”-3.54”.
That’s pretty standard and works well for me on my AR.
If you’re looking for an option with a little more room, check out these AR scopes
It’s got a generous eye box and the turrets are extremely adjustable to make it work for you.
Add to that the fast focus eyepiece it comes with and you’ve got a great scope on your hands.
Durability
This thing is a beast.
At 29.1oz it’s absolutely massive, so you’ll want to take that into account if you’re going to be lugging it around.
On the other hand, it’s extremely durable.
It’s made of a solid 30mm piece of aircraft-grade aluminum that’s reinforced with hardened bronze throughout it.
The walls of the scope are also 3x thicker than any of its competitors which helps reduce stress and improves thermal stability.
On top of that, it’s water, fog, and shockproof.
Literally whatever you can think to throw at this scope it’ll be able to withstand.
I had a sling malfunction while hauling my rifle on a hunt and my rifle dropped and landed right on the scope.
It took no damage.
Not a scratch, not a ding or dent, and it still held it’s zero when I shot it afterward.
For me that more than made up for its weight.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The turrets are capped and have metal dials that allow for fingertip adjustments.
They move easily and click audibly and keep their position when they’re supposed to.
It also comes with a zero-set feature that allows a quick return to zero.
It doesn’t matter how many elevation adjustments you’ve made, it’ll return to your initial zero in a snap.
It took me three shots to get it perfectly zeroed, and I’ve never had an issue with it since.
I’ve shot it from 100-600 yards and the return to zero was spot on each time.
Parallax & Magnification
The magnification range is 5-20x, and it’s got a 56mm objective lens.
It’s the perfect scope for any kind of hunting you want to do.
I’ve used it to pick off varmints on my land, to take down 8pt bucks, and for target practice.
The clarity is as perfect at 20x as it is at 5x, and I’ve never had an issue with tunneling like I have with other scopes.
This scope comes with a side parallax adjustment knob to manually fix any parallax you might encounter.
It starts at 25 yards and goes to infinity, and it’s clearly marked with the distances
Mounting & Rings
It doesn’t come with rings or a mount, so you’ll need to order one separately.
I decided to stick with Nightorce and picked up their 1.125 Titanium Alloy Ring Set and it’s worked great for me.
I’ve also recently discovered how great ghillie suits are when hunting, so check out these suits if you’re interested.
Is the Nightforce SHV 5-20×56 worth it?
Without a doubt.
This is an insane amount of quality and features at what is a steal of a price for Nightforce.
Let’s Review:
5-20x magnification
Water, fog, & shockproof
Super clear at every power
Illuminated MOAR or IHR reticle
Capped turrets and hugely adjustable knobs
Great for varmints, hunting, or target practice
Incredible durability with aircraft-grade aluminum & hardened bronze
On top of all that is the Nightforce transferable limited lifetime warranty.
This is an incredible scope from an incredible company.
Don’t just take my word for it though, check out the Nightforce SHV for yourself.
2. Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223
If you want a scope that pairs perfectly with your 223, the Leupold VX-3i is the best.
In fact, its low light capabilities make it one of the best scopes around for hunting.
It has quickly become one of my all time favorite scopes.
Want to know why? Keep reading.
Glass Clarity & Reticle
With this scope you get crystal clear glass for optimum clarity.
Leupold uses their own lens coating, called DiamondCoat2, that cuts back on glare, protects from scratches, and lets in tons of light! This, by itself, provides you with an amazing sight picture.
Plus, they have the Twilight Max Light Management system, which gives you better clarity at dawn, dusk, or any low light conditions. You’ll get an average of 20 extra minutes of hunting time at the beginning and end of the day.
While it’s not a night vision scope, it’s the closest you’ll get in a regular scope.
If that’s not enough, this scope has a Fine Duplex CDS reticle.
CDS stands for Custom Dial System. What this allows you to do is customize it to your weapon and ammo. Then it calculates ballistics and holdovers for you, which means long range shots just became a piece of cake!
The fine duplex draws your eye right to the center of the target with thicker edges that melt into fine lines at the center, making target acquisition fast and easy.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The eye relief on this scope is 3.7 at high magnification and 4.5 at low magnification.
For the most part, I find this to be more than adequate, but it can be a little tight at those super long ranges. It’s easy to manage with a good cheek weld though.
The nice, wide field of view from the eyebox allows you to cover a larger area, which makes this a great 223 varmint scope.
Durability
Leupold makes scopes that are rugged and highly durable and the VX-3i is no exception.
In fact, Leupold puts all their scopes through 5000 impacts with their recoil simulation machine, aptly named the Punisher, to ensure that their scopes will survive anything you can throw at it.
The aircraft quality aluminum that this scope is made from keeps it lightweight, while also being tough as nails.
The VX-3i also has Leupold’s proprietary gas blend and seals that safeguard the scope from water and keep it from fogging up.
On top of that, Leupold offers a lifetime warranty on this scope, so if you have any problems, they’ll take care of it for you.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA precision finger clicks.
They are easy to adjust and you get audible, solid clicks each time. The numbers on the dials are pretty big too, so they’re easy to see even if your eyesight isn’t so great.
What about zeroing?
I had mine zeroed in just a few shots. It was quick and painless.
Not only that, I’ve easily shot over 5000 rounds and have yet to readjust the zero. It’s held true for me.
Parallax & Magnification
With this scope you’ll get a variable magnification of 6.5-20x.
If you’re like me, you use your 223 for varmint hunting, which makes this scope perfect for those intermediate to long range targets.
If you’re looking for something that will help you with short to medium ranges, check out this list of the best 1-6x scopes.
What I love most about the VX-3i is that it has a side focus parallax adjustment. It’s easy to use and means you’ll never have to worry about distortion.
Mounting & Rings
While this doesn’t come with any type of mount, it does come with a bikini lens cover.
However, I didn’t really like that cover much and ended up buying the Alumina flip cover instead. It works much better and is easier to use.
For the mount, I purchased these Leupold Savage rings, but you can get whichever rings you prefer as long as they’re 30mm.
Is the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50 worth it?
Varmint hunting with a 223 at dusk and dawn has never been easier than with this scope.
It has:
Clear glass
DiamondCoat2
Fine Duplex CDS reticle
Precision ¼ MOA turrets
6.5-20x variable magnification
Rugged, light-weight, durability
Side focus parallax adjustment
Twilight Max Light Management System
If you’re looking for the best scope for your 223, try the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50. You won’t be disappointed.
3. Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR
I don’t always use an HMR rifle, but it’s perfect for getting rid of varmints on my property.
In that case, I’m not going to use just any scope.
I want a 17 HMR scope that’s going to work perfectly with my HMR.
If you’re looking for something with more power check out these Ruger scopes.
But if you’re just wanting to do some close to mid-range hunting, then that’s where the Vortex Crossfire II comes in.
It’s a redesigned version of Vortex’s best selling rifle and you can pick it up for an incredible price.
The original was fantastic, but somehow they’ve managed to improve it even more.
Keep reading and I’ll tell you why the Vortex Crossfire II is the perfect scope for you.
Glass Clarity & Reticle
The lenses are fully multi-coated with an anti-reflective coating which gives you great light transmission and clarity.
That means this scope is perfect for low-light shooting and for catching varmints just before dawn.
It’s not the clearest glass on the market, but to find anything comparable you’ll be paying at least twice the amount.
For the insanely low price though the clarity and glass are pretty darn great.
I was able to shoot a coyote at 300 yards and it felt like it was only 50 yards away.
Once you start getting past 700 yards or so though tunneling became an issue for me.
I was able to adjust it, but it was still noticeable.
In short, use it for close to mid-range shooting and it’ll treat you right.
If you’re looking for a long-range scope, check out these scout scopes instead.
It comes with an illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle, which is fantastic once you get used to it.
It’s great for experienced shooters as it helps eliminate guesswork from holdover and windage corrections.
If you’re new to shooting, you may want to stick with a more basic reticle.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The eye relief is 3.7-4.4”.
That’s perfect for most rifles, and I found it incredibly comfortable.
Combined with the fast-focus eyepiece and the generous eye box, I had no issues easily acquiring my targets.
Durability
This scope is made of a single solid piece of aircraft-grade aluminum which makes it incredibly durable.
I dropped it out of a blind one day on accident and I just knew it was gonna be wrecked.
When I retrieved it not only was it still intact and functioning, but it still held my zero perfectly.
It’s fog and shockproof, plus it’s nitrogen purged and O-ring sealed.
That means it’s 100% waterproof in any environment.
Vortex is known for the incredible durability of their scopes, and they back it with a lifetime warranty.
At this price, you’re not going to find another scope that’s anywhere close to this level of quality.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The ¼ MOA turrets are capped and finger adjustable, so you don’t need any tools to get the job done.
They audibly click and easily reset to zero.
It only took me 3 shots to zero it, and it’s held that zero for over 500 rounds now.
Parallax & Magnification
It’s got a 6-18x magnification range with a 44mm objective lens.
The magnification changes are smooth and there are tons of adjustments you can make.
The Vortex Crossfire II comes with a parallax adjustment knob that starts at 10 yds and goes to infinity.
The tunneling I mentioned earlier at higher mags was easily and quickly fixed with that feature.
Mounting & Rings
No mounts or rings are included, so you’ll need to buy them.
I use the Game Reaper Marlin Medium Mount and it’s worked perfectly for me.
Is the Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44 worth it?
For the price, there’s no other scope on the market that comes close.
When you factor in all its great features this scope is a steal.
Let’s look at the best features again:
6-18x mag
3.7-4.4” eye relief
Incredible durability
Water, fog, shockproof
Illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle
Fully multi-coated, anti-reflective lenses
Finger adjustable ¼ MOA capped turrets
As if all of that weren’t great enough, Vortex adds their amazing Lifetime Warranty.
If anything ever happens to your scope they’ll replace or repair it.
That’s a pretty solid statement for a company to put behind their products.
Go look at it for yourself. Check out the Vortex Crossfire II here.
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money
The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best budget friendly scope for varmint hunting.
In fact:
I bought this scope in a hurry because I needed something affordable and effective for hunting coyotes. Now it’s my go-to for varmint my ar 15.
Here’s why it works…
Glass Clarity & Reticle
For a sub-$400 optic, I wasn’t expecting much. But when I mounted it on my AR, I was blown away.
The glass is clear and crisp with plenty of light.
That glass quality struggled at higher magnifications (18x-24x), but only in comparison to top dollar scopes. For $300, I can’t complain.
The lenses are fully multicoated to reduce reflected light so no more worrying about advertising your position. The coating also increases light transmission which gives the optic its crisp image.
I went with the APMR MIL etched reticle. It’s also available in MOA.
The reason why I like this Christmas tree design is because it has a lot of windage and elevation lines. I don’t particularly like relying on turrets to line up my shots at distances out to 1000 yards.
When it comes to hunting, I like to move fast. With the APMR MIL, I could easily sight my scope from 100 to 1000 yards by knowing what each line corresponded to in yardage.
It also helped that the reticle was first focal plane, a feature normally only seen in top dollar scopes.
This means that the reticle shrinks and grows with your target as you zoom in or out, making target engagement quicker at low power while offering precise holdover positions in finer detail.
Finally, the reticle has a red LED illumination feature.
It’s no Trijicon, and thus not daylight bright to my standard, but it’s proved more than helpful at night.
In dark lighting conditions, the illumination is crisp and not overpowering, handy for hunting down the skunk in your neighborhood.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
For an otherwise versatile scope, the Argos BTR’s eye relief is its most limiting factor.
Only 3.3 inches of eye relief makes it tight for heavy recoiling calibers, but so long as you’re aware of it and practice good cheek weld, you’ll be fine. I’ve had no issues so far.
Overall, the eye box is generous. It does get a bit snug at those higher magnifications (18x-22x).
Durability
Despite the affordable price point, this scope isn’t cheaply made.
The scope body is single piece machined from 6061T6 aircraft grade aluminum meaning fewer moving parts and less points of failure so the scope can withstand serious recoil.
Not to mention that it’s completely waterproof, shockproof, and fogproof.
The factory argon purging removes any moisture from the tube which ensures that it remains fogproof with better thermal stability.
The lenses are also protected with a XPL coating to protect them from dirt, grease, and weather. Although I still use the included lens caps just in case.
I’d also like to add that the Argos BTR is the shortest, lightest rifle scope of this magnification on the market. I didn’t have to make any carrying adjustments or gym visits, the scope was ready to grab and go.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The turrets are accurate and hold well, although they were a bit mushy until I removed some of the factory heavy grease.
Re-greasing the turrets was a quick ten-minute process that made a world of difference for me.
All it takes is wiping out the factory grease with a long cotton swab and re-greasing with some Halofun Green Slime Lubricant.
After that, the clicks were positive and audible. The hash marks on the turrets make adjustments quick, as well as returning to zero easily.
Speaking of, I was zeroed within 7 shots of getting on paper. It held zero, despite being dropped twice, heavy recoil, and a couple hundred rounds.
Parallax & Magnification
The 6x-24x magnification makes this optic versatile for multiple shooting disciplines.
At 55 yards, I took out a hog that I could only see through the scope.
The magnification from 6x – 20x is very clear. Above that, it does lose some clarity and become a bit blurry.
The side parallax adjustment knob is smooth to turn and accurate, good for adjustments from 10 yards to infinity.
Mounting & Rings
I use the GG&G Flt Accucam Mount W/30Mm Rings. They’re sturdy, adjustable, and lightweight, although a little pricey.
If you want to save some money for more ammo, I recommend the Burris PEPR 30mm Mount. It works just as well, but any 30 mm rings should do.
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I also recommend a lens shade for sunny conditions. The Athlon Sunshade (50mm) works well to reduce glare and sun reflection.
Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 worth it?
If you’re looking for a scope that can fill a variety of shooting disciplines and needs, then I highly recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.
There isn’t another scope in its price range that can match its brightness, clarity, and durability.
Here’s why:
Durable build
Rapid zero adjustment
Fully multi-coated lenses
Athlon “Gold Medal” Warranty
If you need a reliable varmint scope but can’t justify dropping a couple grand on an optic, I recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.
5. Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250
Sightron is one of the less popular scope makers in the market, and that’s a shame.
Their scopes are extremely durable, high quality, and they come with a killer warranty.
Plus the clarity of their glass is on par with Nightforce lenses for less than half the price.
I personally use this one on my Remington as my go-to varmint rifle scope.
There are other scopes you could use for you .22-250, but the Sightron SIII SS is my favorite.
If you’re looking for a top of the line scope without the price tag, then keep reading.
Glass Clarity & Reticle
The glass on this scope is crystal clear.
We’re talking I can see out to 1600 yards like it’s right in front of me clear.
Whether I have it at 6x or 24x magnification, the image quality is exactly the same.
It’s got fully multi-coated anti-reflective lenses which allow for a huge amount of light transmission.
That means I can see as clearly at dawn as I can mid-day.
When I’m shooting coyotes before the sun comes up at 300 yards on my land that’s an amazing feature.
The sharpness and clarity of this scope far exceed its price point.
It’s got a MOA-2 glass etched reticle which is a perfect companion to the fast-focus eyepiece.
That combination makes for extremely fast target acquisition so you always know where your target is.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
It’s got 3.6-3.8” of eye relief.
On my .22 Remington, that’s perfect.
It gives me just enough room that I don’t feel crowded.
Even at the higher magnifications, it’s not cramped.
Durability
This is a very sturdy scope.
It’s made from a single 30mm tube of high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum.
It’s nitrogen-filled to prevent fogging at any temperature.
That’s a huge advantage when you’re hunting in the chill early morning.
Add to that the fact that it’s water and shockproof and you’ve got a scope that you can use in any situation, elevation, or climate.
It’s a little hefty at 24.3oz, but the added weight allows for the scope walls to be twice as thick as its competitors.
Even if it gets knocked around a bit, this scope is going to hold up.
I mainly use mine for varmint hunting, so if you’re planning on going hunting with an AR instead, you should take a look at these scopes.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
This scope comes with tactical turrets that are designed to withstand extreme weather conditions.
They’re not going to budge if they get accidentally tapped.
With that said, they’re still finger adjustable and fairly easy to rotate, but they’re a little harder to maneuver than others.
The elevation and windage knobs both adjust to 100 MOA.
That combined with the ExacTrack adjustment system makes it insanely customizable to whatever situation your shot requires.
It’s also a breeze to zero, it took me less than three shots.
The turrets are clearly marked, so it’s super easy to reset them to zero regardless of how many adjustments you make.
Parallax & Magnification
The magnification range is 6-24x with a 50mm objective lens.
It provides incredible range and clarity whether you’re varmint hunting or running a 3 gun competition. Speaking of competition, check out my best 3-gun scope guide.
This scope also has a side parallax adjustment which ranges from 40 yards to infinity.
I’ve never had an issue with it tunneling, but if you do it’s easily fixable.
Mounting & Rings
There aren’t any mounts or rings included, so make sure you grab one.
I recommend Midwest Industries QD Offset Mount. It works great for this scope and for varmint hunting.
Is the Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50 worth it?
It’s an amazing scope that offers a level of quality you normally only see for 2-3 times the price.
Let’s review:
6-24x mag range
Incredible durability
Water, fog, and shockproof
Glass etched MOA-2 reticle
Crystal clear up to 1600 yards
Nitrogen purged to eliminate fogging
Tactical turrets and ExacTrack windage & elevation system
While definitely not the cheapest scope on the market, I believe it’s well worth the asking price.
On top of everything else, Sightron offers a Lifetime Replacement Warranty which can’t be beaten.
Go check out the Sightron SIII SS for yourself.
Now It’s Your Turn
I hope you enjoyed my best varmint scopeguide.
Now I want to turn it over to you:
Which scope will you pick for your firearm?
Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.
Ground squirrels can damage many food-bearing and ornamental plants. They will enter gardens and devour vegetables in the seedling stage, gnaw on plastic sprinkler heads and irrigation lines, eat the eggs of ground-nesting birds and can be quite destructive. This humane DIY squirrel trap can help you eliminate those pesky little varmints!
– Three pieces of PVC plastic drain pipe, 4 inch diameter, 2 feet long each (total of 6 feet)- One PVC 45 degree elbow, 4 inch diameter- One PVC clean out plug, 4 inch diameter- One PVC adapter fitting, 4 inch diameter (threaded on one end for the clean out plug above)- One PVC coupling fitting, 4 inch diameter- One PVC pipe cap, 4 inch diameter- Two machine screws, zinc or stainless steel, 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long- Four nuts to match the screws above- Two washers to match the screws above- Two wing nuts to match the screws above- One adjustable 2 foot bungee cord- One can of spray cooking oil- One small jar of peanut butter
Tools:- Power drill with 1/4 inch bit
Step 2: Drill holes in pipe.
Using the power drill, drill multiple 1/4 inch diameter holes in one of the 2 foot long pieces of PVC pipe. Do not drill holes in the last 6 inches of each end of the pipe. This pipe will be the BASE of the trap.
Select a different 2 foot long piece of PVC pipe. Drill two 1/4 inch diameter holes approximately 2 inches from one end of the pipe.
The holes should be directly across from each other on opposite sides of the pipe. This pipe will be the TOP of the trap and the end with the two holes will point up, when assembling the final trap.
Step 3: Assemble the trap base
Attach the PVC adapter fitting to one end of the BASE pipe and carefully screw the clean out plug into the threaded section of the adapter fitting.
Attach the PVC 45 degree elbow to the other end of the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach any of the PVC pipes or fittings.)
Step 4: Assemble the top of the squirrel trap
On the end of the TOP pipe with the two holes, reach inside the pipe and push one machine screw through each of the holes.
The head of each screw should be inside the pipe with the threaded part outside of the pipe. On the outside of the pipe, place a washer on each of the screws, screw two nuts on each screw, and screw one wing nut on each screw.
Attach the PVC coupling fitting to the end of the TOP pipe without the holes. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)
Step 5: Assemble and bait the trap
The remaining pipe is the MIDDLE of the trap. Insert one end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC coupling fitting on the TOP pipe.
Insert the other end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC 45 degree elbow on the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)
The fully assembled trap will look like a big hockey stick.
Spray a light coating of cooking oil on the inside of the TOP and MIDDLE pipes. This will keep the squirrels from escaping when trapped.
Using your fingers or a long spoon, smear peanut butter on the inside of the TOP pipe about 8-10 inches from the open end of the pipe. The peanut butter is the bait. You can also place peanuts or something similar in the BASE pipe, if you wish.
Step 6: Select a location and place the trap.
Look for a sturdy tree in an area with squirrels. Be sure you can easily see and get to the base of the tree trunk. Place the trap next to the tree with the BASE on the ground and the TOP touching the tree trunk.
Secure the TOP to the tree trunk with the bungee cord.
You can also place bricks or rocks around the BASE to help keep it in from moving.
Step 7: Catch some squirrels.
Wait for a squirrel to sniff out the bait and slide down into the BASE.
Once you have one trapped, it’s up to you as to what to do with the squirrel.
If you choose to relocate the squirrel, place the pipe cap on the open end of the trap before moving the squirrel to its new home.
NOTE: You may wish to vary the length or diameter of the plastic pipe depending on the size of your squirrels or available materials. I chose to use schedule 40, foam core DWV (drain, waste, and vent) pipe because it will stand up to periodic bumps and drops without much problem. Materials for the 4 inch diameter trap cost about $50.
About the author:
James Hammond is a disabled veteran and has done landscaping and home renovation projects for over 25 years.
No doubt there’s a pile of jigging spoons out there…’cuz they straight-up catch fish! You’ve probably already got your faves, so did any of ’em make this list of 6 tried-and-true options that have been putting walleyes topside for years?!
I’m confident this lineup of jigging spoons could pluck walleyes through the ice on any lake, anywhere. Heeeere we go — straight off my ice rods and into this write-up — in no particular order:
Darts and flies outside the hole to cover a ton of real estate, yet fishes heavy enough for the feel/control you skilled spooners are lookin’ for. Super-loud brass rattles make a different kind of “ting” on its alloy innards. Tie on a “techni-glo red” in dirty water and you won’t look back:
2. VMC Tingler Spoon
Fave size: 3/16-oz
Rattle-bearing jigging spoons have taken over the tackle trays of most walleye-nuts, but don’t forget about those silent options when times get tough. It’s all about the flash and flutter, and the VMC Tingler Spoon’s got ’em going on. Works especially well in clear zeeb-infested water, during a cold-front or on heavily-pressured fish.
I’m a sucker for the bigger 3/16-oz size, but don’t be afraid to drop down to 1/8-oz when the fish are super fussy. #SilentButDeadly
3. Clam Rattlin’ Blade Spoon
Fave size: 1/4-oz
Stainless steel BBs + Pyrex-glass housing = a unique clacking sound that calls ‘em in from waaaay out. Slices through the water and has just enough flutter to seal the deal on picky-eaters:
4. VMC Tumbler Spoon
Fave size: 1/8-oz
Great 1-2 punch in a single bait: can be fished “soft” when there’s slow-moving fish on the graph…or sped up and pounded. Unique “knuckle” bend gives it that tasty tumbling action on the drop, and the small metallic attractor blade adds flash and sound. There’s a reason it’s guide Brad Hawthorne’s all-time favorite spoon….
5. Northland Buck-Shot Spoon
Fave size: 1/8-oz
Really don’t think this OG needs an introduction…it’s literally been ringing the dinner bell since before the Internet was a thing! Noisy brass rattle gift wrapped in holographic or UV finishes, can’t go wrong. There’s something special about that “purple tiger” color — flat-out catches ‘em in clear or stained water. #Dibs
6. PK Spoon
Fave size: 3/8-oz
Every walleye fishermen should own a 3/8-oz PK Spoon — especially in the “red dot glow” color — it’s that good when fished aggressively. I work it just like you would a rattlebait through the ice: Start out high (say 2-3’ off bottom) and run a series of big rips before letting it flutter back down…then rock it in place for 5-ish seconds if it takes that long to get whacked….
For you visual learners….
You don’t (always) need livebait to catch hardwater walleyes…. Ever try using “fake” minnow heads on your jigging spoons? How about adding a feathered- or glow-resin treble hook??
That and waaaay more in this video breaking down my complete jigging-spoon setup. It’s 15-min long, so here’s a “Table of Contents” lol:
0:27 – Top 6 jigging spoons to catch walleyes anywhere 5:05 – 3 🔥 alternatives to live minnow heads 9:06 – Rest of the setup (line, leader, snap, swivel, etc) 11:25 – Longer ice rods are better…. 12:18 – My absolute favorite budget-friendly ice reel 13:10 – Braid gives you better spoon control
Or can check the full vid right here:
When you realize how much $$$ you’ve spent on fishing tackle:
To catch lots of crayfish, you need a good, productive, crayfish trap. But without bait, even the best trap isn’t much good. To catch crayfish, you need bait. That’s a simple and accurate statement. Here comes the difficult question.
WHAT IS THE BEST BAIT?
Ask several persons this question, and you’ll get several answers. Here is my simple answer to this question:
FISH MAKES THE BEST CRAYFISH BAIT
Traditionally crayfish traps in most countries are baited with fish. Swedes use sunfish, shiners and herring while Louisiana Cajuns often entice the crawfish with gizzard shad and pogies (menhaden). A commercial crayfisherman on the West Coast catches his crayfish with salmon heads and other oily fish. Lately, I had good luck using salmon trimmings from the local grocery store. For free!
Yes, fish makes an enticing bait that usually surpasses all other baits. But that doesn’t mean other sources of bait won’t work. For years I bought cheap chicken necks and wings and had very good success with them. One store trimmed their chickens leaving the backs of the birds at a reasonable price. I brought home thousands of crayfish with chicken backs.
But, as I said, each person has his own opinion about bait. A description about crayfish catching from Finland, a country that knows plenty about catching crayfish, included as good bait “a stealthily shot neighbor’s cat”. But it also mentions squirrels, chickens and other assorted animals as well as fish from the lake where the fishing takes place.
Loading the boat with baited traps
But here is a warning. Crayfish bait must be fresh! Contrary to some people’s opinions, crayfish don’t like spoiled, smelly or sour bait, be it fish or meat. I found that out the hard way recently. I had several pieces of turkey necks left over from a successful 1400 catch in the mountains. After four days of keeping the bait unrefrigerated, I froze it after arriving home. Then, some weeks later, I defrosted the old bait and used it in a lake known for its large amount of crayfish. To my great surprise and disappointment, I caught very few crayfish under conditions that usually had been very productive.
Analyzing the conditions that led to the dismal catch, I came to the conclusion that it was the spoiled bait. I recalled that, as I was baiting the traps, the bait felt slimey and obviously was too far gone to be considered fresh. It was just plain foul fowl!
A few weeks later I returned to the same lake. This time I brought fresh bait in the form of fresh salmon trimmings from the local food store. With traps located in the same general area, I now had a good catch. I finally believed my friend and crayfish expert who had told me that crayfish demand fresh bait. It’s simply a myth that they eat rotten food.
Another rule about bait is this:
THE MORE BAIT, THE MORE CRAYFISH!
Again and again I find that the more bait I put in a trap, the more crayfish I catch. What probably happens is that as soon as the crayfish have eaten all the bait, they simply start looking for a way out of the trap. That explains why a Finnish article about crayfish catching stated that up to 75% of the crayfish in an overnight trap eventually escape. Well, wouldn’t YOU start looking for the exit if you either had had your fill or if you found that all the food was gone?
Many crayfish traps have some kind of an escape stopper, some quite efficient, some not. But here is the solution to crayfish escaping a trap. It has been well documented that as long as a trap has good bait in it, crayfish who have already entered the trap, will stay there while new crayfish still will be entering the trap. Once I discovered this secret, I found that my traps were much more likely to be full of crays, whether the trap had an escape stopper or not. So, keep your traps filled with good bait, and you will catch more crayfish. The traditional spiral netted Swedish traps can not be equipped with escape stoppers. Consequently, when I use those traps, I make it a rule to empty them at least every four hours all through the night. That way I get lots of crayfish, but very little sleep…
When you empty traps that have to be checked every three of four hours, be sure to bring some fresh bait. Often the traps are simply empty of bait. And empty traps don’t catch crayfish. This rebaiting can be tricky in the dark, but it pays off.
Some trap manufacturers supply their traps with a little container for bait. The idea is to let the scent of the bait entice the crayfish without letting them actually eat it up. In theory that sounds fine. Recent experience tells me that this sometimes can be a productive method for catching crayfish. Canned cat food based on fish products has often proved to be an effective bait. Most experienced crayfish catchers I know prefer to use bait in the trap that crayfish can sink their teeth into. This most likely will result in a larger catch. The advantage with containerized bait, though, is that it will last longer as the crayfish can’t actually get to it.
MANUFATURED BAIT
Down in Louisiana’s Cajun country, crayfish catching has gone commercial and professional. With an annual production of 30-50 million pounds of long clawed red swamp crawfish, they are harvested on more than 120,000 acres of wetland that also produces large quantities of rice and other grains.
While fish bait is often used in the south, manufactured bait is now increasingly common. Several feed companies, e.g. Purina, now produce formulated baits containing cereal grains and by-products with commercial flavorings. Sized at 1.5 to 3 inches and a 2 inch diameter, they are easy to handle and are sold in 50 lb. bags that don’t require refrigeration
But when the water temperature is below 70 F, manufactured bait is not very productive. During the cold months, fish bait is better, but after lakes warm up, manufactured bait is often even more productive. Trapper Arne has experimented with manufactured bait and found it true that during the warm weather months, manufactured bait works quite well. And it certainly is easier to handle, doesn’t go sour and won’t mess up your hands when baiting traps.
But when using manufactured bait, it is a good idea to use a bait container in the trap. Bait lying on the bottom of the trap is often attacked by the crayfish from the outside of the trap. Keeping bait in a container lures the crayfish inside and makes the bait last longer. The artificial flavorings in manufactured bait, or the oily fish too for that matter, gives off a “smell” that spreads to the whole crayfish community. This is what lures them to find the source of the smell and into the trap they go. We hope.
Jack rabbits are a common sight in Arizona and the Southwest. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds.
Despite their name, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. They are an important part of the local ecosystem, and can be found in a variety of habitats throughout the area.
In this article, we will explore some of the most interesting and important facts about jack rabbits in Chandler, Arizona. We’ll discuss where they live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more.
Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, this article is sure to provide you with some valuable insights.
Are jackrabbits dangerous?
No, jackrabbits are not considered dangerous to humans. They are generally shy and elusive animals that prefer to avoid human interactions whenever possible.
Jackrabbits are known for their incredible speed and agility, which they use as a defense mechanism to escape from potential threats. When they feel threatened, they rely on their ability to run quickly and change direction abruptly to evade predators.
While jackrabbits are not aggressive towards humans, they may exhibit defensive behaviors if they feel cornered or trapped. They may thump their hind legs or make sharp turns to confuse predators or individuals approaching them.
It’s important to remember that wildlife, including jackrabbits, should be observed from a distance and respected in their natural habitats. Avoid approaching or disturbing them, as they play an important role in their ecosystems and deserve to be appreciated from afar.
Can jackrabbits have antlers?
No, jackrabbits do not have antlers. Although some may argue that the famous jackalopes do! Antlers are typically found in members of the deer family, such as deer, elk, and moose. These bony structures are grown and shed annually by male deer species as a part of their reproductive behavior and dominance display.
Jackrabbits, on the other hand, are not deer species and do not possess antlers. They belong to the family Leporidae, which includes hares and rabbits. Jackrabbits have distinctive long ears and powerful hind legs that enable them to run swiftly to escape from predators.
It’s important to note that there may be certain anatomical variations or genetic abnormalities that can result in rare instances of antler-like growths in other species. However, such occurrences are extremely uncommon and not characteristic of jackrabbits in general.
When observing jackrabbits, you will typically see them without antlers, displaying their unique adaptations as lagomorphs, which include their remarkable speed and agility in evading threats.
Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?
Jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in the city of Chandler, Arizona. They typically prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.
One of the best places to see jack rabbits in Chandler is at Veterans Oasis Park. This 113-acre park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds. The park features several miles of hiking trails, as well as a lake, a butterfly garden, and a cactus garden.
What Do Wild Rabbits Eat?
Jack rabbits are herbivores, which means they eat only plant matter. In the wild, their diet consists mainly of grasses, leaves, and the bark of trees and shrubs. They are also known to eat flowers, fruits, and seeds when they are available.
In urban areas, jack rabbits may eat ornamental plants and gardens if their natural food sources are scarce. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals is generally not a good idea. Not only can it be harmful to the animals, but it can also lead to conflicts with humans and other wildlife.
How Big Do Jack Rabbits Get?
Jack rabbits are one of the largest species of hares in North America. They can grow up to two feet in length and weigh as much as six pounds. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to run at speeds of up to 45 miles per hour, making them one of the fastest animals in the desert.
What Eats Jackrabbits?
Despite their speed and agility, jack rabbits are preyed upon by a variety of predators. Coyotes, bobcats, and foxes are some of the most common predators of jack rabbits in the wild. Birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles, may also hunt them from the air.
In addition to natural predators, jack rabbits may also be threatened by human activities such as habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be treated with respect and care.
Where Are Jack Rabbits Found?
Jack rabbits can be found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They are most commonly found in dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.
Will Wild Rabbits Eat Carrots?
Carrots are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans.
Carrots are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems in rabbits if they are consumed in large amounts. Additionally, feeding wild animals can cause them to lose their natural fear of humans, which can lead to conflicts and even aggressive behavior.
How Long Do Jackrabbits Live?
Jack rabbits have a relatively short lifespan, with most individuals living only two to three years in the wild. However, in captivity they may live up to seven years or more. Predation, disease, and other factors can all contribute to the relatively short lifespan of wild jack rabbits.
How Fast Do Jack Rabbits Run?
Jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.
How Many Wild Rabbits Are in a Litter?
The number of young in a jack rabbit litter can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the age and health of the mother, the availability of food and water, and the local environmental conditions. In general, a jack rabbit litter may contain anywhere from one to six young, with an average of three to four.
Why Do Jackrabbits Have Big Ears?
One of the most distinctive features of the jack rabbit is its long, upright ears. These ears serve a variety of purposes, including helping the animal to regulate its body temperature, locate predators and prey, and communicate with other rabbits. The large surface area of the ears helps to dissipate heat, which is important in the hot, arid desert environment where jack rabbits live.
How Often Do Wild Rabbits Breed?
The breeding habits of wild jack rabbits can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the local environmental conditions and the availability of food and water. In general, however, jack rabbits breed throughout the year, with peak breeding occurring in the spring and summer months.
Will Wild Rabbits Eat Lettuce?
Lettuce is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Lettuce is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.
How Much Do Wild Rabbits Eat?
The amount of food that a wild jack rabbit eats can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, size, and activity level. In general, however, jack rabbits consume about 1/4 to 1/2 pound of food per day. This may include a variety of plant matter, including grasses, leaves, bark, flowers, fruits, and seeds.
Will Wild Rabbits Eat Apples?
Apples are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Apples are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems if they are consumed in large amounts.
Are Jack Rabbits Endangered?
Jack rabbits are not currently considered to be endangered. However, like all wildlife, they face a variety of threats, including habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be protected and conserved for future generations.
Will Wild Rabbits Drink Water from a Bowl?
Wild rabbits are typically able to obtain all the water they need from their food, and do not need to drink water from a bowl. However, in urban areas where natural water sources may be scarce, wild rabbits may be attracted to water sources such as bird baths, swimming pools, or pet water bowls. If you want to provide water for wild animals, it’s important to use a shallow dish that is cleaned and refilled regularly.
Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?
As we’ve mentioned earlier, jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.
Are Jack Rabbits Hares?
Yes, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. While both hares and rabbits belong to the family Leporidae, there are some key differences between the two. Hares are generally larger than rabbits, with longer ears and legs. They also have different reproductive strategies, with hares typically giving birth to fewer, larger young.
Will Wild Rabbits Eat Celery?
Celery is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Celery is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.
Are Jack Rabbits Fast?
Yes, jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.
How Much Do Jack Rabbits Weigh?
Jack rabbits can weigh up to six pounds, making them one of the largest species of hares in North America. However, the exact weight of an individual jack rabbit can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, sex, and overall health.
Conclusion
Jack rabbits are a fascinating and important part of the local ecosystem in Chandler, Arizona. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds. Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, we hope that this article has provided you with some valuable insights.
We’ve discussed where jack rabbits live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more. We’ve also provided some important information about the risks of feeding wild animals, and the importance of protecting and conserving these amazing creatures for future generations.
If you’re interested in seeing jack rabbits in the wild, be sure to visit Veterans Oasis Park in Chandler. This beautiful park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds.
Whether you’re taking a leisurely hike or simply enjoying the natural beauty of the park, there’s no better place to experience the wonders of nature in Chandler, Arizona.
Fishing is a passion for some people including me but, as an amateur, I cannot spend hundreds of bucks on a baitcaster. During one of my visits to the market recently, I came across some of the best baitcasting reels under $100. Since I plan to learn on a baitcaster and polish my skills, buying the best baitcaster under 100 wouldn’t hurt.
You can find some even inexpensive choices but, make sure they have the right specs. A baitcaster wouldn’t work up to its maximum potential unless it has all the important factors. Finding the appropriate piece could be a hassle therefore, our team has shortlisted some of the top choices. All of the baitcasters reviewed below come with everything a beginner, as well as an expert, looks for in it.
I along with my fellow anglers tested out more than 15 baitcasters priced less than $100. From our intensive field experience SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel is on top of the list of best baitcasting reels under 100. Followed by Lew’s Speed Spool LFS, and Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro. Detailed review of each option is given below.
First a quick product review of baitcasters under 100:
Quick Overview – Best Baitcasting Reels Under $100
SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel – Overall Best Baitcaster under $100
Lew’s Speed Spool LFS – Best For Casting Distance
Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast – Best Low-profile
KastKing Rover Round – Best For Conventional Fishing
Piscifun Spark Pro – Best Lightweight
Abu Garcia Revo X Low Profile – Best For Inshore Fishing
JOHNCOO Titan Baitcasting Reel – Best Entry-level
Piscifun Salis X Trolling Reel – Best Round Profile
Abu Garcia Ambassadeur S Baitcast – Best Saltwater
KastKing Spartacus II Baitcasting Reel – Best under $50
10 Best Baitcaster Under $100 in 2024
Now the detailed review of each baitcaster.
1. SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel – Overall Best Baitcaster Under $100
Specifications
Gear ratio: 6.3:1, 7.2:1, 8.2:1
Max drag: 12 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.44 lbs.
I have seen my expert brother use numerous baitcasting reels including the high-end ones and Shimano was prominent in them. When I saw this reel, it made me stunned. It not only looks premium but feels too. All I wanted to know eagerly was about its performance. This model from Shimano can cast a mile effortlessly. Its capability of performing various techniques such as flipping and frogging for bass fishing makes it the best flipping reel under 100.
Because of the magnetic braking system, the reel is highly adjustable. I tried it with a 7 ft. medium-medium heavy rod for regular bass fishing. Whereas, the light rod was efficient enough for some trout and micro fishing. During my experience of using this reel for saltwater fishing, I didn’t encounter any trouble. Probably because I rinsed off the reel thoroughly with fresh water and lubed it after every use.
Pros
Efficient braking system
Casts amazingly
Amazing high-end choice under a budget
Cons
Some more pounds for drag could’ve been better
Verdict
Overall, the Shimano SLX is a workhorse for fishermen who rely on quality even if they are on a budget. Offering powerful and smooth performance, this product is indeed the best Shimano baitcasting reel under 100.
2. Lew’s Speed Spool LFS – Best For Long Distance Casting
Specifications
Gear ratio: 5.6:1, 6.8:1, 7.5:1
Max drag: 15 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.44 lbs.
Lew’s had made its name in the fishing industry for decades now and it was hard to resist testing this reel out. I used this reel for a good couple of months in freshwater and saltwater numerous times. Fortunately, I had no complaints about this best $99 baitcaster. It comes in three different gear ratios as mentioned earlier which allows a variety of fishing.
My field test was on the one with a 6.8:1 ratio and it was silky smooth right out of the box. Since it incorporates a magnetic braking system, having control over braking power was made effortless. I used the reel in the Wisconsin River with high success. The drag power was pretty amazing too whereas, the casting distance of reel was outstanding and no less than a dream. Its incredibly smooth cranking makes it the best cranking reel under 100.
Pros
Casts a country mile
High-quality
Comfortable
Cons
Could be a bit noisy
Verdict
This model from Lew’s is indeed a deluxe choice for all the anglers out there, making it one of the best baitcasting reels under $100. Considering its out-class specs and performance, I was able to compare it with my brother’s top-end Mach Crush reel.
3. Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast – Best Low Profile Reel Under $100
Specifications
Gear ratio: 7.1:1
Max drag: 15 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.46 lbs.
Abu Garcia produces some magnificent quality reels and rightly so, has a huge customer base. I would recommend Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast as one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for all the right reasons. First off, its low-profile design not only adds to its physical beauty but offers optimum comfort to the users. With my small hands, I have always struggled with finding the best matches for me. But, this reel fits my palm easily, offering easy operation.
Speaking of the spool, it was super easy and I had no issues with that. Moreover, with the ultra-fast and smooth retrieve, I was able to catch species like Spanish Mackerel. I used an 8 lbs. braided line with this reel and it worked exceptionally. The gear ratio was super efficient for picking up the topwater slacks.
Pros
High quality real
Comfortable low profile design
Great drag
Cons
The casting distance could’ve been better
Verdict
Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast is one of the best Abu Garcia Baitcaster reel that has secured a sweet spot for most of the novice anglers mostly because of its low profile design and affordable price.
4. KastKing Rover Round – Best for Conventional Fishing
Specifications
Gear ratio: 5.3:1
Max drag: 30 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.88 lbs.
As I held the reel, it felt sturdy but chunky however, I still went on with testing it out. Catfishing is something that I have enjoyed maniacally so, with this reel, I planned on going for catfishing. After using the 12 lbs. mono line with the size 40 reel, I did not only succeed with catfish but a couple of others too including, walleyes, salmon, and northern musky.
One of my friends paired this reel with a 50 lbs. mono line and it cast like a dream hence, is an incredibly best casting reel under 100. Its centrifugal brakes work quite well and avoid backlashes. My field test lasted for nearly 5 to 6 months where I used the reel mostly for freshwater fishing. I tried it in saltwater very few times and there was no issue. The double-shielded stainless steel ball bearings protect from corrosion.
Pros
Incredible drag power
Suitable for large fishes
Buttery smooth operation
Cons
Heavier
Verdict
All in all, this reel could be a great choice for people who like to catch a variety of fish. It comes in different sizes which one can choose as per their preference.
5. Piscifun Spark Pro – Best Lightweight
Specifications
Gear ratio: 6.6:1, 8.1:1
Max drag: 16.5 lbs.
Hand orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.43 lbs.
This baitcaster is designed to provide the users with a redefined performance with smoothness. Rightfully so, when I used this reel, there was minimal to no backlash, thanks to the magnetic braking system. Moreover, the double-shaft supported line wind ensured better stability of the baitcaster.
During the field test, I paired this reel with multiple lines such as a 40 lbs. braided line as well as a 4 lbs. mono line. Fortunately, it performed outstandingly with both. With these lines, I was able to lure some amazing catches including walleyes, trout, and peacock bass.
Pros
Lightweight
Great value for money baitcaster
No backlashes
Cons
Average frame quality
Verdict
It would be totally safe to call the Piscifun Spark Pro the best baitcaster under $50. Despite being a pocket-friendly reel, it is not short on comfort and performance, thanks to its lightweight and impeccable specs.
6. Abu Garcia Revo X Low Profile – Best For Inshore Fishing
Specifications
Gear ratio: 6.6:1
Max drag: 18 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.49 lbs.
Another top-class baitcaster from Abu Garcia that I came across was the Revo X. It is also a low-profile reel, offering high comfort to the users. This reel accompanied me during my fishing adventure for 3 to 4 months and I loved every bit of it. From smooth operation to amazing cast and an efficient braking system, this baitcaster has so much more.
The Revo X never let me down regardless of the type of fishing I did. With this reel, I caught catfish, largemouth bass, steelhead, salmon, and trout. During my experience, I encountered a few backlashes which were easily eliminated by adjusting the brake and drag power. One of the best things about this reel is its ability to perform up to the mark for inshore fishing.
Pros
Corrosion-resistant frame
Ideal for inshore fishing
Easy to prevent backlash
Cons
Sideplate is prone to accidental removal
Verdict
Considering its marvelous features and high-end construction, this model from Abu Garcia is one of the finest and best baitcasting reels under $100.
7. JOHNCOO Titan Baitcasting Reel – Best Entry-level
Specifications
Gear ratio: 7.1:1
Max drag: 13 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.6 lbs.
This one was among the top heavy-duty low-profile baitcasters that know well how to perform in freshwater as well as in saltwater. Due to its corrosion-resistant mechanical parts, I was able to thrust it inshore for saltwater fishing. My experience of using this reel with a musky fishing rod was beyond my expectations. Considering its price point, I wasn’t hoping for such a brilliant performance.
The 13 lbs. drag power might be insufficient for some professional anglers but, I was pretty happy with it. This reel helped me catch some interesting species such as calico bass and rockfish. After pairing it with a 20 lbs. mono line, I was stunned to see how the reel holds an adequate amount of line.
Pros
Superb performance
Casts far
Heavy duty reel
Cons
The inefficient braking system might cause backlash issues
Verdict
If you are new to fishing adventure and want the best baitcaster under $75, this one could be it. Though it has some cons but, considering the price point and other features, one can’t ask for more than what this reel already offers.
8. Piscifun Salis X Trolling Reel – Best Round Profile
Specifications
Gear ratio: 6.2:1
Max drag: 37 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 2.2 lbs.
Are you in search of the best round baitcaster under 100 that works well for large fishes? This model from Piscifun could be your ideal match. Made out of truly premium materials, this reel is indeed a beast. It operates like a charm and is super comfy in the hands despite its heavy weight.
Its line capacity is tremendous which I figured out after using it with the 80 lbs. black lunker braided line and the entire 547 yds. of the spool was held by the reel effortlessly. I took this buddy to various fishing sessions where I was able to catch huge species such as 20 lbs. black drum, 5 lbs. flounder, and more.
Pros
Drag power helps fight the largest of fish
Massive line capacity
Powerful performance
Cons
Very bulky
Verdict
Piscifun never fails to amaze its users and this model is a true example of it. Our entire team absolutely loved how this reel performed. We all would happily refer to it as one of the best baitcasting reels under $100.
9. Abu Garcia Ambassadeur S Baitcast – Best Saltwater
Specifications
Gear ratio: 5.1:1
Max drag: 11 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.65 lbs.
If you still haven’t found your perfect reel, don’t stress out. This Abu Garcia baitcaster is the best saltwater baitcaster and offers the best bang for the buck. While this wasn’t as high in quality as the expensive Abu Garcia models but still did a wonderful job for its price. Since it is a larger round profile reel, I tried deep jigging and trolling with this one and it worked marvelously.
The adjustable brakes make avoiding backlashes super convenient. I used this saltwater baitcaster with a 30 lbs. fishing line and it helped me succeed in catching salmon, steelheads, and sturgeons. Moreover, after using the Suffix 932 braided line, the reel casted a country mile like a dream.
Pros
Comes with a bait clicker
Smooth retrieve
Adjustable brakes
Cons
The spool release button keeps sticking down
Verdict
What else could be better than investing in a reel that works well for numerous fish in fresh and saltwater both, is comfortable to use and above all, is priced right.
10. KastKing Spartacus II Baitcasting Reel – best Cheap Baitcasting Reel
Specifications
Gear ratio: 7.2:1
Max drag: 17.6 lbs.
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Weight: 0.3 lbs.
KastKing lives up to its name because of the top-notch reel it manufactures. Despite being priced as low as under $50, this reel performed way beyond my thoughts. The moment I read about its specs, I was eager to try it out on my own. My testing lasted for approximately 6 months and I enjoyed using this reel a lot.
The reel came well lubricated and its mechanical parts operated as smoothly as butter. I used it for saltwater fishing but rinsed and oiled after every use. I was surprised to see that this reel casts farther than the traditional pricey baitcasters. During my test, this reel held 125 yds. of a 20 lbs. mono line which was simply incredible.
Pros
Featherweight
Great drag power
Corrosion-resistant mechanical parts
Cons
Smoothness could deteriorate if not taken care of properly
Verdict
This model from KastKing is considered one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for the right reasons. I was able to catch fish like rainbow trout, crappie, muskie, and more with this baitcaster.
Buying Guide
You can’t purchase the best baitcaster reels under 100 unless you know the important considerations. Since these reels are relatively less pricey, you must ensure that they don’t lack the key features and are compatible with best baitcasting rods under 100. To make the search less hassle for you, we have explained the vital specifications in detail below.
Materials
While searching for baitcasters, you will come across two major materials used for its crafting i.e., aluminum and graphite. High-end manufacturers generally opt for aluminum to create exceptional quality reels. However, graphite is less durable than aluminum and therefore comes at a cheaper price point.
You can still find some great reels made out of aluminum by companies that never compromise on quality regardless of the price.
Gear Ratio
Baitcaster gear ratio plays a crucial role in the overall performance of a baitcasting reel so, don’t overlook this factor. A higher gear ratio accounts for more line on the reel. The typical gear ratios available in baicasters include 7.1:1, 6.4:1, and 5.3:1. Choosing the gear ratio depends on the type of fishing you wish to perform.
7.1:1 is considered a higher gear ratio and best suited for professional anglers. It is also a good choice for people who burn the bait back to the boat no matter what. These are best used to catch species like toads and topwater frogs.
The 6.4:1 gear ratio is a medium gear ratio that the majority of the fishermen opt for because of its all-around performance. The best thing about this ratio is its ability to be used for every kind of fishing and baits. For example, topwater, jigs, worms, shallow cranking, and more.
Lastly, the 5.3:1 is a relatively low gear ratio and is best recommended for slow rolling massive spinnerbaits, deep diving crankbaits, bigger swimbaits, and more.
Max Drag
I personally love an adjustable drag since it helps to catch a variety of fish. The drag of a baitcaster refers to the tension exerted on the spool while using. Reels with greater max drag are suggested if you intend to catch larger species such as bigmouth bass, etc. The top recommended max drag for various conditions are:
Freshwater fishing: 20-65 pounds (depending on what you’re fishing)
Saltwater fishing: 20-65 pounds (same as freshwater fishing)
Inshore fishing: minimum of 15 lbs.
Offshore fishing: minimum of 30 lbs.
Always get a reel with drag power that will help you to maneuver your desired fish without adding too much tension on the spool. The max drag varies with the size of reels so, make sure to check with due care.
Braking System
Reels with an efficient braking system enhanced my fishing experience impeccably. Since these prevent issues like backlash and bird’s nests, you enjoy every bit of your adventure. There are following two common types of braking systems in baitcasting reels i.e., magnetic and centrifugal.
The magnetic braking system relies on magnets to slow down the spool speed. It also allows you to control the braking of your reel. Generally, nvoice anglers love investing in best baitcasting reels for beginners with a magnetic braking system.
Contrarily, the centrifugal braking system also serves the same purpose of slowing down the spool. However, it does so by using the pins. Users also have access to every pin which allows them to adjust the braking power.
Hand Orientation
A lot of people overlook this factor while purchasing a baitcaster for under $100. Most of the top-notch reels come with an ambidextrous hand orientation which can be used by right-handed and left-handed. However, some pocket-friendly choices under $100 might lack this feature.
So, assure that the reel you are getting comes in your desired hand orientation, or else it would be useless. Also, it must have a soft grip that is comfortable to use so that your hands aren’t sore after hours of fishing.
Also Read our Related Guides On Baitcasters
Best Baitcasting Rods Under 100 in 2024
Best Baitcaster For Light Lures
Best Baitcaster Combo Under $100
Best Baitcaster Under 200
10 Best Spincast Reels 2024 – Spincasting Reel Reviews
FAQs
What is the best baitcasting reel for beginners?
Novice anglers are advised to purchase a baitcasting reel that isn’t too expensive and offers better control. While the market is loaded with such reels, the best option according to my research is SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel. It weighs super-light hence, is comfortable to use, it can be used for a variety of fish and in freshwater as well as saltwater. Moreover, its low price makes it one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for beginners.
Which one is better for a baitcaster: mono or braided line?
A mono line costs less and holds knots better as compared to the braided line. It is an ideal choice for small-sized baitcasters. The mono line also sorts out bird’s nest issues brilliantly. Whereas, the braided line offers more amount of fishing line on the spool and is pricier. The choice solely depends on one’s personal preference and type of use.
How can I avoid backlash?
When a spool has a faster spinning speed than the fishing line, the backlash is initiated. The best way to avoid backlash is by investing in best anti backlash reel with an efficient braking system since it decelerates the spool speed. You can also adjust the tension on your reel’s spindle for better performance.
Conclusion
For me, picking the best baitcasting reel under $100 was extremely daunting, especially with the extensive choices around. But, as I narrowed my search down to the products with the best specs, I was able to shortlist the right baitcasters.
Out of all the reels I have reviewed, the best baitcasting reel under $100 is none other than the SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel. It boasts all the crucial specifications that one looks for in a high-end baitcaster. From robust durability to splendid performance, this $100 reel has a lot more to offer than one expects.
After testing numerous reels, I would sincerely suggest all the anglers to carefully consider the important factors of the reel you are interested in. This is the only key to finding your best match.
If you’re a fan of Hunter boots, then you know that they can be both stylish and functional. However, keeping them in good condition can be challenging if your boots get cracked. Whether the damage is from water, salt, or just general wear and tear, this guide will show you how to patch them up in no time!
This blog post will show you how to fix cracked Hunter boots using simple techniques that won’t damage the boot material. So read on for tips on how to get your Hunters back in good shape!
12 Steps to Follow: How to Fix Cracked Hunter Boots
Step 1
First, locate a small enough stick or twig so it reaches from one of the holes in your boot up to your heel. Then, grab the stick and use it to scrape all of the debris, salt, snow, etc.
Step 2
Remove all debris from your boots using a small stick or twig. Once you have removed everything, run the Chapstick or Petroleum Jelly along with the split. Doing this will help keep it moist while you are repairing your boot.
Step 3
Use the black sharpie to color over the crack. This will help it blend in with your boot and prevent further damage from happening. Do this to both sides of the shoe.
Step 4
Take a clean cotton ball or cloth, moisten it with water, and then use it to wipe away any dirt that is still on your boot. This will ensure that the fixative has a clean surface to attach to and help prevent new cracks from appearing.
Step 5
After the split is gone and the area is dry, place a piece of clear tape over it before using duct tape. Finish this step by covering the whole split with duct tape.
Step 6
Set a metal bottle cap over the split. This will help strengthen the boots once they are dry and put them on again. The idea is that if you did it correctly, the boots should hold together until you get home or to a place where you can properly fix them.
Step 7
Place your boots in the sun with the metal bottle cap over the split. Make sure they are sitting evenly so that no air can get in between them. This will help dry them out faster without causing further damage to your boot.
Step 8
After two hours, check on your boots and return them if they aren’t completely dry. Ensure the area is arid before moving on to the next step.
Step 9
Now, cut off a small piece of duct tape and place it over the split in your boot using clear foot powder or baby powder. Use an even coat of this powder across both sides of your boot.
Step 10
When the duct tape has been applied, place a piece of duct tape over it and repeat with clear foot powder or baby powder. Follow this by placing another piece of tape over the split and using your Chapstick or Petroleum Jelly once more to coat both sides of your boot. Repeat until you have covered up the split.
Step 11
Place your boot dryer or an old shoe for weight inside your boots and leave them there overnight. The next morning, you’ll want to remove them and give the area another coating of clear foot powder or baby powder. Then, put them back on and wear them as normal until they are completely dry.
Step 12
Once they are dry, take a piece of tape and cut it small enough to fit over the split. Cut off any excess tape after you have placed it where you need it. Follow this with clear foot powder or baby powder and repeat until your split is completely covered and sealed up. The split should be gone, and your boots should look good as new.
You Can Check It Out to Buckle Hunter Boots
Note
If you don’t have clear foot powder or baby powder, place a piece of tape over the split and use either Chapstick, Petroleum Jelly, Glue, or all three until your boot is fixed! These are just temporary solutions how to fix cracked hunter boots while you are on the go.
Some Tips and Suggestions
Here we have given some tips and suggestions on how to fix cracked hunter boots.
Consider using a spray adhesive instead of glue to strengthen the bond between layers of transparent tape. Spray adhesives are designed for use on smooth surfaces, so be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first.
To adjust the fit of your boots after you’ve taped them together, try shaving down the heel with a file for a better fit.
If your boots are too tight after shaving the heel, consider adding an insert or two to relieve some pressure on your feet.
Remember that if you take good care of your taped-together Hunter boots, they should last much longer than before!
Consider boots like Blundstones for quick fixes. They’re more affordable and very easy to tape together since there are fewer seams.
If you determine that your split is not fixable, you can always return them or exchange them for a new pair online or at your local Hunter dealer!
If the crack on your boots is on the sole of your boot, you might want to consider taking them to a shoe repair shop. They can add another layer or two on top of the crack and use extra reinforcement to keep it from splitting again.
Seven Reasons That Causes Cracked Hunter Boots
Now that you know how to fix cracked hunter boots, here are some reasons that cause cracked hunter boots so that you can prevent them in the future.
1. Fade
When the color of your boots fades, it is a sign that you need to reglaze them. This can result from water, sunlight, and heat exposure.
2. Water Damage
If your boots have been moistened too often or kept in a humid area for long periods, then they can crack or split. This is because the leather becomes too soft and loses its shape.
3. Wet Boots
If you have been wearing your boots in snowy, slushy, or rainy weather, then the cold and moisture can cause damage to your boots.
4. Sunlight Damage
This is a common problem for rubber-soled shoes of any kind. The sun’s ultraviolet rays dry out your shoes and can eventually lead to cracks and other damage.
5. No Maintenance
If you do not clean and maintain your boots regularly, they will not last as long. Routine care can prevent dirt, water, salt, snow, and other harmful elements.
6. Poor Storage
If you keep your boots in an unheated area or do not cover them during the winter months, for example, then the leather will become stiff and brittle.
7. Faulty Leather
If your boots are made from faulty leather, they will not last very long. This type of damage is difficult to repair.
Does Gorilla Glue Work on Rain Boots?
Gorilla Glue works on a wide variety of materials, but the company cautions that it shouldn’t be used on some leathers and rubbers. Gorilla glue is water-based and contains no VOC or formaldehyde. Nevertheless, the product makers warn against using it on plastics, fabrics, foams, and rubbers, including most rubber boots.
Some types of rubber can react with the glue and turn white, while others will experience a significant loss of strength after being glued. It is possible to use Gorilla Glue on some rain boots, but only if the product lists the boot as compatible.
What Glue Is Best for the Rain Boots?
It would help if you found a strong adhesive that will bond with the rubber of your Hunter boots. Most waterproof glues or cement are ideal for this type of repair, but they may not be enough on their own. Be sure to add a quick-drying clear coat to your project after applying the glue while still wet. This will provide extra protection and make your new bond last longer.
Rather than spending money on a new pair of boots, you can get many more years out of your current pair by fixing the straps. This is not as difficult as it may sound and won’t require any extra materials that you don’t already have at home. You need some gum or glue that has been designed to adhere to rubber, a few fine-grit sandpaper sheets, and a steady hand.
Can You Fix Cracked Rubber Boots with Shoe Goo?
Shoe Goo is a thick, rubber-like liquid that can be applied to the cracks in the rubber boots to help seal them and protect them from further damage. Shoe Goo is a liquid or putty, but both types contain an adhesive that works similarly. This product can be used on new or old boots and may help restore the boots’ waterproofing.
The product doesn’t dry remarkably quickly, so it allows for repairs to be made without caving to the pressure of having to run out the door with wet feet. Shoe Goo works best on rubber that isn’t very thick or heavily cracked, as it can weaken over time and should only be used on boots that don’t require heavy-duty repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is the Best Way to Fix Cracked Hunter Boots?
A: When the leather on your brand new boots cracks, it’s very disappointing. Fortunately, there are ways to fix them to look just like new again. The simple way to repair cracks is to simply put a small amount of shoe cream or conditioner into the aperture and then work it in with your fingers.
You can also use a wet cotton tip swab to rub the product into the crevice. Let it dry overnight, and then apply a second coat if necessary. Buff with a soft cloth to bring back the shine once dried. An easy way to avoid any damage to boots is by simply applying mink oil, which helps waterproof them. You must buy high-quality mink oil to get the best results.
What Are the Dangers of Fixing Cracked Hunter Boots?
A: Using too much shoe cream or conditioner can make them look worse, not better. It may also cause the leather to dry and crack even more quickly. In addition, many products sold for this purpose tend to leave a greasy film on the boots that will attract and hold dirt and dust, which may ultimately cause your boot to dry rot.
Do-it-yourself repairs also run the risk of permanently damaging the boots. For example, it is easy to accidentally use too much shoe cream or conditioner or rub it into unintended areas. This can result in a discolored surface on the leather, a more severe cracking in the future, or some other unusual change.
What Can I Use to Repair a Broken Zipper on My Hunter Boots?
A: Repairing a broken zipper on your favorite Hunter wellies is much cheaper than replacing the boots. The plastic teeth are held together with an interlocking system attached to two walls of the zipper housing. This means you need to piece together both sides of the wall to restore the strength lost when one side breaks away from its counterpart.
Hunter boots are made with a waterproof material, and the zipper is not. Without one or both of these elements, your boots will no longer be truly waterproof. You can piece together the wall holding the teeth together with a vinyl adhesive, which you can find at any hardware store. Though it comes in a tube and is designed for use on sticky surfaces, the vinyl adhesive provides a waterproof hard shell once it has dried and hardened.
Conclusion
If you want to make your boots last longer, then there are a few ways to fix the cracks on them. One way is using boot polish or shoe cream on just the surface of the leather where it’s cracked. This will fill in the gaps and help seal up any exposed areas, which could cause more damage if not taken care of right away.
Another solution would be to use something like wax paper over all of the parts of your shoes that have cracks so they don’t get worse. We hope this blog post on how to fix cracked hunter boots has been helpful. If you have any questions or thoughts about how to take care of them in general, feel free to reach out! We’d love to help you get back on track with these top-quality shoes that will last for many years if taken care of properly.
When learning about firearms, it’s important to be precise. There’s a wealth of terminology and an even greater number of products on the market.
So when wondering about ammo, simply asking “what bullets do the most damage?” is a vague question.
You must qualify it for it to make sense. For example, a shotgun slug will do far more damage to a barn door than a .22 will do to a pig, yet the .22 caliber has been used in more killings than the shotgun slug.
OK, then what are we talking about here? There are only a few reasons why this conversation would be taking place.
The first is sheer curiosity. Some bullets look pretty gnarly, and naturally you would think they would do severe damage to anything they encounter.
You might wonder why all bullets aren’t made that way. Another reason this discussion might come up is to cause debate amongst friends or in political circles.
The final reason — and the one being addressed here — is if someone is trying to make an informed decision about which rounds best suit home defense or everyday carry needs.
Let’s start off with a little cold, hard truth that many people simply don’t like. All bullets are inherently lethal.
Even so-called “non-lethal” or “less-than-lethal” rounds have accidentally killed people.
All bullets are dangerous — in fact, even the use of blank-firing cartridges has led to deaths in some extremely rare cases.
This brings us to the next point: Despite what gun legislation opponents will tell you, no bullet is “designed for the battlefield” and inherently more dangerous than others.
Almost every caliber round has been used somewhere in a theater of war.
While there are some obscure rounds that were never used in battle, there’s honestly no round that is somehow safer than another because the military isn’t currently using it.
This brings up another point worth mentioning: Hollow points and full metal jacket rounds are inherently no different from each other at their most basic level.
They are both projectiles designed to be fired from a gun and can both kill. In fact, for those that think hollow points are somehow more deadly, the U.S. military doesn’t use hollow point ammunition in infantry units.
It uses FMJ. Again, that doesn’t mean they are more deadly. It just means that a bullet is a bullet.
The point here is that there are many misconceptions about different ammunition and the reality is that most of them are conjecture at best and outright lies at worst.
What Constitutes Damage?
When it comes to the measurement of ammunition capabilities, damage is measured in a couple of ways.
First, most rounds are measured by ballistic coefficient. Next, rounds are often judged by penetration ability.
Lastly, damage can be measured by the size of the overall hole left on the object the bullet struck.
Ballistic Coefficient
What exactly is a ballistic coefficient? In the simplest terms, a ballistic coefficient is the ability of the bullet to overcome air resistance in flight.
The better a bullet is able to overcome air resistance as it flies, the more energy it retains through flight.
The more energy the bullet retains over the course of flight, the more energy it has to deliver into the target.
While this isn’t the only thing you should be looking at in terms of judging your potential rounds for the damage they can do, it’s a good indicator that you’re on the right track.
There are other factors involved here too, like the mass of the bullet, but that is a part of the calculation for the ballistic coefficient.
So, as a general rule, the higher the ballistic coefficient number, the more damage the bullet is capable of inflicting.
It doesn’t mean it will — just that it could.
Penetration
This is also a factor that can be misleading. Like the ballistic coefficient, the penetration capability of the round deals with the potential of the round to deliver damage.
Rounds with the ability to penetrate well into the target are more capable of delivering energy into the target.
In older times, to ensure something that was shot was truly shot, manufacturers would try to load as much powder as possible into loads.
This was because some rounds that were made for handguns but that could be fired from rifles — such as the .44 Long Colt — might not actually enter into the target far enough to accomplish the intended goal.
Plus, thick layers of clothing or degrees of distance could cause some rounds to fail at truly damaging an intended target.
This is where a round’s penetration ability became important.
The powder loads were adjusted over time, along with bullet designs and materials used, to ensure a more stable flight path for the round.
This has allowed modern loads to use only enough powder to deliver the round while ensuring it’s able to penetrate the target on arrival.
Now, rather than running the risk of over or under penetration, the rounds are more consistent throughout their journey.
As far as damage is concerned, this penetration ability can translate to larger cavities as the round travels farther into and even through the intended target.
But, as with the other measurements, this factor alone is not a solid judgement of what makes a round do more damage.
The .223/5.56, for example, is known for penetration ability, but there is a ton of evidence of people being shot and having rounds go right through them without them even knowing.
Penetration alone is not enough of a barometer.
Exit Wound/Wound Cavity
Another factor for measuring damage is the size of the wound cavity a round makes and the exit hole it leaves.
Some rounds deliver their energy in such a way that the force pushes through, causing a cavity to form around the bullet.
Most rounds create a cavity much larger than the round itself, so the size of the round is not a factor. What can be important is a combination of the size and other factors as well as the composition of the target.
In addition, when this occurs, it leaves an exit wound with a much larger hole than that of the entry wound.
Again, this one factor alone is not enough to judge which rounds do the most damage.
It’s a combination of all factors, plus the type of gun being used and the conditions at the time of fire.
Rounds are designed to very specific standards and tolerances, and any number of factors can throw them off.
Everything from the weather to the way you hold the gun can negatively impact the ability of the round to perform optimally.
Most Damaging Rounds
So, what does the most damage then?
Which rounds have the best combination of those factors aside from the person pulling the trigger?
However, the answer is simple: It isn’t about what’s best, but rather what’s best for you.
It’s going to depend on what gun you’re using and your purpose for that gun.
Someone going to war has different needs than someone carrying for self-defense. But that said, the most popular calibers of bullets are popular for a reason.
For handguns, you can’t go wrong with a 9mm, a .40 or a .45 caliber. Based on ballistic tests, all these rounds are capable of doing more than enough damage to suit your needs.
Similarly, for rifles, the .223/5.56 rounds, .308, 7.62 x 39mm and even .300 Blackout are all equally damage-inducing depending on application.
The reality of the situation is that for modern uses, there is no one round that does more damage in all situations for all shooters.
They all do fantastic jobs depending on why you’re buying them. Like everything else, it’s situationally driven.
So get out there and find what works best for you; the exploration is the fun part.
When considering the 8.6 Blackout, the wrong question to ask is “Is it better than what we already have?” The right question to ask is “Is this the coolest cartridge design on the market?” The answer to the first question is “only for specific use cases.” The answer to the second question is, unquestionably, “YES!”
In essence, 8.6 Blackout is designed to shoot heavy .338 caliber bullets at modest supersonic or quiet subsonic speeds for hunting or self defense. The cartridge is unique for its radical 1:3 twist rate which produces extreme rotational energy to aid its terminal performance and allows it to shoot accurately with subsonic ammunition.The design allows for shorter barrels and subsonic ammunition to be used.
Despite its uniqueness, the western hunter will struggle mightily to understand the 8.6 Blackout after seeing the following table.
8.6 Blackout.338 Win Mag.308 Win
If you value flat-shooting traditional hunting rounds, then the above table would end your interest in 8.6 Blackout. Then, you see photos like one below, and you say. Wait, what? That guy killed a CAPE BUFFALO with a semi-auto rifle with a tiny 12-inch barrel? Suddenly, any hunter’s interest is piqued.
Kevin Brittingham from Q took a cape buffalo with a tiny 12″ barreled rifle chambered in 8.6 Blackout
There are many advantages of the 8.6 Blackout which have never been possible with existing cartridge designs, but they only make sense if you’re willing to take a non-traditional look at what a hunting rifle could become.
1 – A typical 6.5 Creedmoor case is the parent case for the 8.6 Blackout
2 – Put a 6.5 Creedmoor case in an 8.6 Blackout reloading die, and drop the press. You end up with a much expanded neck to fit the large bullet, and a shoulder pushed quite a bit lower
3 – Trim the case from step 2, and you have a fully prepared 8.6 Blackout case (that might require some neck turning)
4 – Grab a gigantic bullet to put in your 8.6 Blackout. Notice that this Sierra 225 MatchKing bullet is even longer than the case
5 – A completed 8.6 Blackout cartridge
Comparing 8.6 Blackout to Similar Cartridges
Not surprisingly, the most comparable cartridge to the 8.6 Blackout is its little sister-the .300 Blackout. The .300 Blackout is essentially a .223 case necked up for a giant bullet that allows the cartridge to shoot supersonic or subsonic with heavy-weight penetration.
The 8.6 Blackout essentially accomplishes a similar purpose, but in a much more powerful platform.
Rifles Available in 8.6 Blackout
So far, only three companies produce rifles in the 8.6 Blackout cartridge: Q, Faxon, and Gorilla.
Most people looking to get an 8.6 Blackout rifle will likely end up looking at Faxon Firearms. They make relatively inexpensive barrels for the AR-10 platform (commissions earned). If you already have an AR-10, you can simply screw on one of their barrels and you’re done.
For complete rifles, Faxon has two options: their bolt-action Overwatch, and the AR-10 Sentinel. I personally have their Sentinel AR-10 rifle, and I can confidently say it’s the nicest AR-10 I’ve ever owned.
Q makes high-end rifles with the “cool factor.” They have produced some very innovative suppressors, rifles like “The Fix” and now a cartridge. Looking through their website, the only model I could currently see being produced in 8.6 Blackout is The Fix as a 12″ SBR (meaning you’ll need a tax stamp and enough patience to wait for the ATF).
Gorilla Ammo also produces complete firearms. They have their GF10 Lightweight Hunting Rifle as well as their GF Bolt Action Rifle available in very limited quantities.
Prediction: Will 8.6 Blackout Take Off?
I see 8.6 Blackout is a boutique cartridge.
As a hunting cartridge, it isn’t flat shooting enough to whet the appetite of western hunters. They want cartridges like the new 7mm PRC. Eastern hunters shooting whitetail aren’t exactly clamoring for more power to kill a whitetail. They want cartridges like the 6.5 Creedmoor, or even a lever action 30-30. It frankly isn’t that hard to kill a whitetail at short range. Midwest Hunters are looking to straight-wall cartridges to follow strict state laws.
There is, however, one huge factor that may help to push 8.6 Blackout. It’s the Hornady factor. Hornady manufactures a giant amount of 6.5 Creedmoor ammunition and has worked with Q to produce brass for early production. When Hornady sorts through its backlog, I would expect them to begin producing 8.6 Blackout since they already do production runs for 6.5 Creedmoor brass, and I doubt they’ll miss an opportunity to play with a cartridge that opens up a completely new engineering need for unique bullet designs.
If the last 20 years teaches us anything, it’s that if Hornady touches a cartridge, it’s probably going to take off.
Reloading 8.6 Blackout
Since I had a bucket of 6.5 Creedmoor brass, I chose to convert that brass to 8.6 Blackout rather than waiting for brass to become available. I’m glad I didn’t wait, because it ended up being a rather enjoyable process.
I was informed by others online that Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass was the best option for converting, so I blindly obeyed like a sheep.
I used the Lyman dies in 8.6 Blackout which were very inexpensive. I tried other Lyman dies before that I didn’t like, but this one worked out perfectly.
I kept the expander ball in the die and went down slowly into the case, backing off and coming back down every few millimeters since it is quite a stretch from 6.5mm to 8.6mm. It would have been much better to use an expander mandrel and slowly step up each caliber to 8.6mm, but I wasn’t reloading for precision and wanted quicker results.
The brass looked pretty good at this point. The brass around the shoulder had tiny waves, but it was minimal enough for me not to be concerned.
This left a large neck on the case, which I simply ran through my Frankford Arsenal Case Trim and Prep Center to shave down. I used a trim to length of 1.675″ given that the specified case length was 1.685.” I wish there were more detailed reloading data available, but that was my best estimate for a good “trim to” length. Please, however, don’t rely on my data because I’m a layman and not a ballistician.
The next issue is the neck thickness. Unfortunately, my first batch of ammo produced too thick of a neck, so it wouldn’t fully chamber. I highly recommend the Sheridan case gauge checker for 8.6 Blackout, which was recommended to me originally on the AP2020 Youtube channel.
Next, I loaded the case with Accurate 1680 powder, which was a new powder for me. It’s extremely fine-so fine that I found it very difficult to meter and pour because the fine powder would stick in my funnel no matter what I tried.
I followed the load recommendations from Q which are published on the Faxon website. They are included below.
When doing load development, only use information from the powder or firearms manufacturer-not random blogs like this one. Always start load development low when working with supersonic rounds and work up, or vice-versa for subsonic rounds. Do not use this information for developing loads. It is for academic purposes only and may contain errors.
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