The Super Slam of North American Big Game 29 is the ultimate quest for a big game hunter. Are you that hunter who has what it takes? The Super Slam of North American Big Game takes serious dedication and years to accomplish. First, a hunter must register the legal taking of 29 big game animals native to North America. The official archives are kept through the Grand Slam Club/Ovis (GSCO). A hunter must register with GSCO, pay the $25 membership fee and submit the trophy hunt online. The membership and submission of your trophy hunt can be found here:

SLAMQUEST

Here is a list of big-game animals for the Super Slam on North American Big Game 29 and the hunts we have available.

North American Big Game 29 Species

Alaska Brown Bear –

• The Alaska brown bear is the largest bear in the world, larger than brown bears of Europe and the grizzly bear. Brown bears in Alaska live off of a protein-rich salmon diet and can be found along the Alaska coast and near spawning salmon runs.

Alaska Brown Bear Hunt

Black Bear –

• The Black bear is found in the western United States and has the largest population of any bear in the world. Black bears are found in Alaska, Canada, Florida and Gulf Coast areas.

Black Bear Hunts

Grizzly Bear –

• The grizzly bear is found in a range of areas in North America but the largest populations of grizzlies are seen in Alaska and Canada. Grizzlies like to wander and can kill animals as large as a moose; however, these bears eat a lot of berries, roots, nuts and different types of grasses to survive.

Grizzly Bear Hunts

Polar Bear –

• The polar bear populations are mainly found in the southern part of Hudson Bay and James Bay in Canada. They can be seen on the shores and pack ice of the Arctic Ocean. Polar bears spend years out on the ice but the pregnant females will come ashore to den.

Cougar –

• The cougar is a solitary, silent large cat and are entirely carnivorous. It has many common names such as mountain lion, panther and puma. They are the second-largest cat in the western hemisphere and only North American cougars are allowed to take for the Super Slam quest.

Cougar Hunts

Columbia Blacktail Deer –

• Columbia Blacktail Deer are found in the North American Pacific Coast region to the southern part of Monterey County of California. These deer have similarities to the mule and Sitka deer but can be distinguished by antlers, overall coloration and tail.

Coues Deer –

• Coues deer are found in southwestern Arizona and a little bit of New Mexico. They are often called little desert dwelling siblings of the whitetail deer. Top End Adventures offers a few Coues deer hunts.

Coues Deer Hunts

Mule Deer –

• Mule deer are found all over in the western United States, western Canada and adapt to a wide range of habitats. Bucks can range from 150 – 300 lbs and will migrate to the high mountainous country by themselves to lower ranges during the winter to avoid deep snow levels.

Mule Deer Hunts

Sitka Blacktail Deer –

• Sitka Blacktail deer are located in the wet coastal rain forests of north-coastal British Columbia and Southeast Alaska. Averaging from 90-120lbs, this subspecies of mule deer is the most common deer in Alaska.

Whitetail Deer –

• Whitetail Deer are one of the most common deer you will find in North America. They average in weight from 100-200lbs. A very easy way to identify this species is simply in its name, check the underside of the animal’s tail.

Whitetail Deer Hunts

Rocky Mountain elk –

• The Rocky Mountain Elk is commonly known for having the largest antlers of all elk subspecies. They are found in the Rocky Mountains and many adjacent ranges. An average weight for a bull is 700lbs and their antlers can weigh up to 40lbs alone.

Rocky Mountain Elk Hunts

Roosevelt Elk –

• Weighing in from 700-1,100 lbs, Roosevelt Elk are the third largest mammal in North America. Roosevelts are a subspecies of elk found in western Oregon.

Best Elk Hunting States

Tule elk –

• Tule elk are the smallest species of elk found in North America. These smaller elk are mainly located in the state of California. Females often average 370-430lbs while the males can weigh anywhere from 440-550lbs.

The Best Elk Hunting States

Barren Ground Caribou –

• This medium-sized caribou is mainly found in the Canadian territories of Nunavut and the Northwest Territories. The Barren Ground Caribou are smaller and lighter-colored then the boreal woodland caribou.

Central Canadian Barren Ground Caribou –

• Living in the tundra and Arctic islands, these caribou can vary in size dramatically depending on where they are located. Mature bulls can weigh 250 to 450lbs and antlers for the CCBGC score around the same as the Quebec Labrador caribou.

Mountain Caribou –

• Very similar to Woodland caribou, this is an endangered species. They reside in British Columbia and western Alberta. In early 2019, the remaining southern mountain caribou were taken and put into maternity pens.

Quebec Labrador Caribou –

• This medium-sized tundra caribou is very similar to the CCBGC. Hunts for this subspecies can start at about 10,000 USD.

Woodland Caribou –

• Mountain caribou, or in other names, Boreal woodland caribou are one of the most endangered mammals in North America currently. These caribou live in the mountain ranges of British Columbia, Alberta, and parts of Idaho and Washington.

Alaska Yukon Moose –

• The Alaska Yukon or in other names, the giant moose, is a subspecies of moose native to ranges from Alaska to western Yukon. This moose is the largest subspecies of moose to roam the boreal and deciduous forests.

Alaska Moose Hunt

Canada Moose –

• There is an estimated 500,000 to 1 million moose in Canada. These moose are mainly located on the hillsides of the western mountain ranges. A mature bull’s antlers usually range between 120 and 150cm between the widest tips.

Canada Moose Hunt

Shiras Moose –

• Measuring over six feet at the shoulder and weighing up to 1,000lbs, the Shiras moose is Colorado’s largest big game animal. Colorado has one of the fastest growing populations in moose in the lower 48 states.

Moose Hunts

Bison –

• Mostly found in conservation areas, bison can be found in the US, Canada, and Mexico. Bison are commonly called buffalo in the US and Canada but are only distantly related to the true buffalo. Adults can grow up to 6ft and 7in in height and 11ft and 6in in length.

Muskox –

• Muskox typically weigh in from 500 to 800lbs. These huge mammals have inhabited the Arctic for thousands of years, and their long shaggy hair is well adapted to the frigid climate.

American Mountain Goat –

• These hoofed mammals are endemic to North America and commonly found on cliffs and ice. Mountain goats will weigh from 90 to 300lbs and are protected by their woolly white double coats.

Mountain Goat Hunts

Pronghorn Antelope –

• Pronghorn Antelope are mainly found in North America. Their natural ranges are most commonly extended from southern Canada to northern Mexico. The pronghorn is the fastest land mammal in the western hemisphere with running up to speeds of 42 mph for one mile.

Antelope Hunts

California Bighorn Sheep –

• Known for its large horns, the Bighorn sheep is native to North America. California is home to tell different subspecies of sheep, the desert Bighorn and the Sierra Nevada Bighorn.

Dall Sheep –

• Dall sheep, or in other names, the thinhorn sheep can be found in northwestern North America. Both male and female sheep carry a huge set of horns, but the females are often shorter and more slender.

Dall Sheep Hunts

Desert Bighorn Sheep –

• This subspecies of bighorn sheep is native to the deserts of the intermountain west and southwestern regions in the US. With rams weighing up to 250lbs, Desert bighorn sheep are the largest native animal in the Grand Canyon National Park.

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep –

• Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep are the largest wild sheep in North America, the males can weigh up to 300lbs while just their horns alone can weigh up to 30lbs. The females, or ewes, are about half this size.

Stone Sheep –

• Native to northwestern North America, the Stone sheep is a southern subspecies of the Dall or Thinhorn sheep. These sheep can be found mainly in British Columbia seen licking minerals at Summit Lake or other Provincial Parks.

Shades of Blue

A quick search of the internet can bring up a lot of Jeep Wrangler forum discussion and personal opinion about the closest paint color match for the Wrangler 4XE blue decal and tow hook colors. We’ve seen suggestions of Electric Blue (PB5), Hydro Blue (PBJ), Surf Blue (PQD), and Chief Blue (PQB). A few places have mentioned a Lagoon Blue, but we couldn’t find a paint code for that. Which one is it and who is correct?

4XE Blue Accent Color

Initially we were certain it was Electric Blue. Why? Because Jeep® themselves were calling it Electric Blue, and that makes sense, right? After all, it is an electric vehicle! What we discovered was that even Jeep® doesn’t seem to be sure. On their 4XE build page, there is a photo of the tow hooks with a description of “electric blue tow hooks”. However when you click on the Highlights link for a build, it describes “lagoon blue tow hooks”. To further confuse the debate, Jeep® notes the Rubicon 4XE to have “surf blue interior accent stitching”.

Several places report that the tow hooks and exterior design accents on pre-production 4XE Rubicons were electric blue. However, in current production, the tow hooks are a lighter color similar to Chief Blue. To complicate the decision further, we’ve discovered that the hood decals, badge and tow hooks are actually each a different shade of blue!

Color Matching 4XE Accessories

What better way to match the blue accessories on the 4XE than to actually compare painted samples to the Jeep®? So, that’s what we did. We took painted samples of Electric Blue, Hydro Blue, Chief Blue, and Surf Blue to our local dealer and compared them to the hood decals, tow hooks, and badge emblem.

What we found, is that Electric Blue is definitely too dark, as is Hydro Blue. The Chief Blue comes close to the tow hooks, but is too light to match the hood decals and emblems. That left the Surf Blue Pearl which is a nearly perfect match for the emblems and decals. When looking at the tow hooks, which are not metallic like the decals, Surf Blue was still a great match. The color, even being metallic, is a like shade to the Chief and can definitely bring all the accents together, especially when looking to add more exterior, and even interior Jeep® trim.

Surf Blue Jeep® 4XE Accents

Honestly, while there is a color that is nearly perfect, they all look pretty decent and it boils down to personal preference. That said, we have found Surf Blue to be a super choice and would call it a match. Check out the Surf Blue 4XE Outlet Cover!

Whatever the Jeep color you choose, consider it a reflection of your personality and lifestyle. Your Jeep says a lot about you, and when your Jeep looks good, you feel good. Make it YOUniqely you, starting with your exterior Jeep color, and then customize from the outside in, with exterior and interior Jeep trim from Color My Jeep!

It’s impossible to pick up the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun and not immediately feel the quality and see the precision of this gas-driven auto-loader. Then you bring the gun to your shoulder, fire it, and realize that it’s one of the softest 3½-inch, 12 gauge shotguns you have ever shot. You must pay a higher price for that experience of course (MSRP is $1,749), but Beretta has been making some of the best semi-autos the hunting world has seen since the A300 series shotguns were introduced in the early 1980s. When you buy a Beretta, you’re investing in gun that will likely last generations.

The Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus is the the pinnacle in Beretta’s long-running history of building a semi-auto shotgun that just about every waterfowler wants in their gun closet…probably right next to workhorses like their 3-inch shotgun the A390 and Xtrema2. Here’s a closer look at what makes the A400 Xtreme Plus our Editor’s Choice of the best duck hunting shotguns.

Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus Specifications and Features

These are the standard options that are included in the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun:

• Gauge: 12
• Action: Semi-auto
• Capacity: 3+1
• Chamber 3½-inch
• Barrel type: Optima Bore HP Steelium Plus
• Barrel length: 26-, 28- (tested), 30-inch
• Chokes: 5 Extended (F, M, IM, IC, C)
• Front sight: Fiber-optic
• Finish: synthetic, Realtree Timber, Max-5, Mossy Oak Bottomland, Kryptek Wraith, TrueTimber
• Length: 49½ inches
• LOP: 14.3 inches
• Trigger pull: 5.1 pounds
• Overall weight: 7.8 pounds
• MSRP: $1,749

The Kick-Off Mega System Drives the Beretta A400

The lack of recoil that shooters experience is what sets the Beretta A400 apart from competitors like Benelli, Browning, and Winchester. Beretta calls it the Kick-Off Mega, which is a three-spring hydraulic system inside the stock that softens the blow of recoil. Part of the Kick-Off3 system is a long spring-loaded steel rod contained in the pistol grip of the stock, which acts as a buffer as the bolt moves reward. There’s also a rubber recoil pad on the buttstock and another rubber pad where your cheek meets the stock. That rubber pad will lessen any recoil you may feel, but it also acts as a good cheek weld, to keep you “in the gun” when ducks are swinging through the decoys.

I’ve shot light target loads, 1 1/8-ounce duck and goose shells, and 2-ounce lead turkey ammo through the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun, and it’s never thumped me. You can certainly tell the difference when you’re shooting those different charge weights, but it only feels like deeper pressure on your shoulder. It’s kind of like the difference in getting a light massage versus a deep tissue.

The A400 Was Built For a Specific Purpose

You won’t see many duck guides carrying the A400 Xtreme Plus. That’s not a strike against this gun. It’s just heavier than most modern auto-loaders, and guides are tasked with carrying more gear than their clients, so they will often trade a bit more recoil for a lighter gun. Plus, they don’t shoot as much as the clients. It’s definitely a blind hunter’s gun; built for folks that boat in or don’t have to make long walks down a levee to a public stake. You certainly can tote this gun into the marsh—I have and so do many others—but it is much more cumbersome than a Benelli or Browning auto. While it may not be a joy to carry, once you get to your hunting spot there are few guns that can compete with the accuracy and soft recoil of this Beretta.

It’s definitely not meant to be an upland shotgun. It will kill a flushing rooster just fine, and if you pheasant hunt occasionally, the A400 will serve your purpose. But if you’re a dyed-in-the-wool bird hunter, who loves hunting behind pointers every weekend, there are better guns in the Beretta stable, like the A400 Action 20-gauge, or Beretta’s high-end double guns.

Throw a sling and red-dot optic (the receiver is drilled and tapped for one) on the A400 and it makes a fine, albeit weighty turkey gun. And it’s a hell of a clays gun, cycling 2 3/4-inch, 1-ounce target loads with ease. You won’t see a diehard skeet shooter pick this model of A400 (there is a clays version), but again, if you’re an occasional target shooter, this gun can do the job. It’s length, weight, and balance point, which is perfectly centered, make it easier to swing on clays than light autos that are easy to get moving but tougher keep in front of the bird.

Beretta’s A400 Has Superior Ergonomics

When you first hold the A400 in hand, it feels like a heavy gun, even though it’s only 7.8 pounds. But by today’s duck gun standards, that’s heavy (the A400 Xtreme Plus was only outweighed by the Remington 1100 and an old Browning BPS, that were part of our Texas gun test). It’s also a long shotgun at 49½ inches with a fat fore-end that folks with smaller hands might have trouble getting a good grip on.

But, as mentioned previously, long, heavy guns are often easier to shoot than shotguns that are a full pound (or more) lighter, which many modern auto-loaders are. It was advantageous to shoot the A400 on flittering bluewing teal that couldn’t decide if they would splash down in the decoys or rocket through them at 40 mph. With a big gun, your firearm is more apt to be in motion because it’s harder to stop and that’s a good thing when you’re shooting at ducks with unpredictable flight patterns. Field & Stream Shooting Editor Phil Bourjaliy has told me many times, that the bigger and clunkier a gun looks and feels, the easier it is to shoot, and that’s certainly true of the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus.

It doesn’t have the pointy feel of a Benelli when you first start shooting the A400, but most hunters do shoot it well. The four of us certainly did in Texas, and anyone we handed the gun off to at the clays range shot it as good as their own personal guns, or close to it. That’s a staple of Berettas—they fit just about anyone.

The A400 Xtreme Plus Has Plenty of Extras

Like most of today’s duck guns, the Beretta A400 features an enlarged loading port and trigger guard, which makes it easier to load shells and pull the trigger with gloved hands. I performed both operations with a thick set of gloves on and had no issues. There’s also an extended charging handle for better grip when you’re unloading the gun, and a large lever-like bolt release button.

Once you open the bolt by depressing the button under the carrier, do be careful of accidently touching off the bolt-release button. It’s so large and sensitive that when I was walking an unloaded A400 out of the marsh on my shoulder I hit the bolt-release and it closed the bolt, pinching my shirt into the action. I also caught my fingers in the receiver on an accidental closure—it does not feel good.

There is no cut-off lever on the left side of the A400 Xtrem Plus. The first generation of the gun had one. It allows the bolt to remain open and keep the remaining shells in the magazine without entering the carrier and being lifted into battery. This is a feature some hunters use if they’re duck hunting and a big, greasy 12-pound resident honker starts winging its way towards the decoys. Press the lever, eject your 3-inch, No. 4 duck shotshell and you could slide in a load of BBs. But you won’t have that convenience with the new model.

The fore-end cap is easy to take off, requiring just a half-turn to remove it. That’s handy if you need to perform a quick field strip of the gun. The cap is also neon green on the inside rim, so if you drop it in the bottom of the pit blind at 5 a.m., it should be a little easier to find under the glare of your headlamp.

A Look Inside the A400

If you’ve ever cleaned a Beretta A390, you know that there are multiple pieces to remove and clean once the fore-end comes off. Beretta has made it much easier to perform maintenance on its guns with the A400 line. Once the fore-end is removed, the barrel slides out of the receiver. The gas piston is located inside a metal cylinder under the barrel and simply slides out for cleaning. To remove the bolt assembly, you depress the rotating bolt head, take out the bolt handle, and the bolt, bolt carrier, piston stock, and recoil spring all come out in one piece. Removing the bolt handle can be tricky. You have to push the bolt head back into the receiver until it starts to rotate, then the handle should come free.

The trigger assembly is held in place by a single trigger pin, which makes removing and re-insertion fast.

Testing the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus

The A400 Xtreme Plus we shot had no issues cycling. A team of four editors—myself included—from Outdoor Life and Field & Stream tested the gun—along with 16 others—on sporting clays and bluewing teal for three days in Sept. 2021, at Pintail Hunting Club in Garwood, Texas. We put the gun through as much hell as we could find, dropping it in the water and muddy marsh, running hundreds of rounds through it, and letting it sit in the back of the truck with a bunch of other dirty guns, never cleaning it. The A400 didn’t hiccup once. It also was one of the fastest-cycling guns in our test, thanks to the Blink system, which Beretta touts as 36 percent faster than other shotguns. We couldn’t put an actual percentage to it, but it was a damn fast gun.

You may recall, the first version of the A400 did have some trouble ejecting 3- and 3½-inch shotshells. It wasn’t every gun, mind you, and I never experienced that issue with any A400 Xtreme I shot, but did witness others have a problem. I saw it struggle most with 3½-inch Remington Hypersonic and during snow goose shoots when the gun had to rapidly cycle an extension magazine full of 3-inch ammo. I asked different Beretta sales reps and engineers at the time what was going on with the gun, but the answers were always murky.

This gun doesn’t seem to have the same cycling issues. I’ve only seen the A400 Xtreme Plus fail to eject a spent shell on one hunt. It was an extremely cold day in February and my buddy was shooting a brand of shotshell that flared at the business end of the hull after ignition. And those “petals” would hang on in the action. I can’t say whether it was the gun’s fault or the shotshell’s; it’s just what I observed. And my friend has shot the same brand before and experienced clean ejection. So it could have been a bad batch of ammo.

The same friend that had the malfunction in February shot his A400 on snow geese a few weeks later after a good cleaning in warmer weather, with a different brand of ammo, and it ran through 10 rounds (he had an extension magazine on it) in multiple volleys, no problem. Another hunter also was shooting the A400 Xtreme Plus on that trip, and had no issues with his gun, which was also equipped with an extension mag.

How the A400 Patterned

Since we tested so many guns (17) in Texas, we picked one distance (35 yards) to pattern each gun from. The industry standard is 40 yards, but we wanted to showcase the patterns at a more realistic yardage for duck hunters. Plus, your average hunter should keep shooting distances inside 35 yards. Once you get out to 40 it takes more skill, and the likelihood of crippling birds goes up.

We patterned each gun with Federal Speed Shok 3-inch, No. 2s with a muzzle velocity of 1,550 fps and a charge weight of 1 1/8 ounces.

The Beretta A400 shot 60 percent above and 40 percent below point-of-impact. It’s a gun that shoots where you point it. Its best pattern put 109 of 140 (78 percent) pellets inside the 30-inch circle. That wasn’t the best overall pattern of the shotgun test, but it was one of the most even. It filled the target with no holes that a duck could fly through. Some guns like to shoot right, left, high or low, but the A400 was dead on. You cover a mallard with this gun and it will kill it.

Final Thoughts on the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus

If you’re a gas gun stalwart and have the financial means, there is no better auto-loading duck hunting gun than the Beretta A400. Anything Beretta got wrong with the first generation of this gun, it fixed with the new model. Yes, it’s a little clunky and heavy, but you can’t argue with its accuracy, reliability, and light recoil. Plus, this shotgun is going to be in your family far past your lifetime. When you take that into consideration, $1,800 isn’t such an exorbitant price tag for gun that could someday belong to your grandchildren.

When I was in my early 20s, I used to hang a couple dozen tree stands every summer. The work was tedious, hot and extremely time consuming. And I always felt like I was acting like an outfitter for myself and members of my hunting family at home. Sometimes these stands wouldn’t even get used in the fall, and I’d have to burn more time and energy pulling an unused stand in the winter. The entire process just seemed extremely inefficient. Now that I’m in my early 40s, I have even less time and energy than I did back then, and I desperately try not to waste either.

Now my family and I hunt much more mobile and hang 75 percent of our stands in real time.

Occasionally, I grow tired of passively sitting in a tree waiting for a big buck to come by for the ambush. Also, some conditions are just plain poor for a tree stand location, and the advantage of sitting aloft is lacking. In recent years, I’ve grown fond of switching up hunting techniques and giving the bucks in my area a different look. When I get to hankering for some action, grow bored with tree stand sitting or just need to do some in season speed scouting, my go-to method for chasing deer is old school still hunting.

Defining The Practice

I will preface the remainder of this piece with a statement of pure truth: I am by no means a master still hunter. I live on the prairie in southeastern Illinois, far removed from the big timber and rugged country where the method is used much more frequently. In my hunting youth, I read T. S. Van Dyke’s book from 1883, The Still Hunter. His tales and illustrations of sneaking up on whitetails on foot seemed like pure fiction to me. Around the same time, I read several books authored by Larry Benoit and his sons. They told spinning tales of tracking down monster Adirondack bucks on foot for miles, in the snow no less, before closing in on the animal for a kill shot with a rifle.

After digesting a pile of literature on the subject, I made up my mind. I was going to learn how to still hunt.

I’ve always thought the term still hunting was a bit of a misnomer, because you’re on foot and you’re moving very slowly. Still hunting is the simplest form of active pursuit there is, a process by which one literally creeps through a whitetail’s habitat on foot as slowly and methodically as possible. The goal is quite simple: use all your senses to see, hear and sometimes even smell the whitetail before they return the favor. But that’s only the first part of the still hunting equation, for the hard part is pulling off the shot at eye level. For my tastes, still hunting lends itself to be a fantastic method for the deer hunter with a firearm tag in his or her pocket. But, given the proper conditions, an archer can also use the still hunt. Let’s study these elements in detail.

The Proper Conditions

In order to up your odds of still hunting success, you need to have the proper conditions. In my opinion, a calm, sunny and dry day is just terrible for the task.

I want damp conditions to allow for quiet footfall in the timber on a calm day. Also, dry leaf litter under foot is less apt to spook game if the wind is up and covering your sound signature. Noise mitigation is paramount to the still hunter.

On sunny days, keeping the sun at your back and slowly working through the shadows is a fine way to get the drop on bedded deer. But cloudy days seem to make for better overall visibility. Keep in mind that shadows can help hide the human form, but they can also hide the whitetail just as easily.

Rain and snow can make for some excellent conditions to still hunt. However, if the ground is too wet and muddy, it can throw off your balance and make for a noisy boot slurping through the muck.

Falling snow is my absolute favorite helper. While I’m wearing some white snow camo and easing through whitetail habitat on foot, the fresh powder helps dampen one’s noise signature and ups the odds of catching a big buck on his feet.

The terrain and undergrowth also need to be considered before attempting a still hunt. Too many snags make for difficulty in slow navigation where minimal movement is desired. Terrain that is pancake flat sounds advantageous, but it is not, nor is extremely sharp terrain. Flat ground gives game the advantage of seeing you way before you see them, and aggressive contours take your mind off the task of spotting game, and you become consumed with not slipping and falling. Gentle rolling timber or hill country is a still hunter’s best ally. Terrain should be diverse enough to allow for camouflaging hunter movement, but not so sharp it is extremely hard to traverse.

A word needs to be mentioned about the condition of the still hunter themself. Being in sound physical condition with a strong core, legs and feet is a good idea. If I still hunt for a few days straight, my hips and calves get tired and sore, and I am less balanced on the trail of game. Physical form aside, by far the most important condition of any still hunter is a soundness of his or her mind. On a still hunt, you must try and remain focused and adaptable. If your mind is on work, bills, your phone or other distractions beyond the woods, you will fail in this endeavor.

When I begin a still hunt, I try to mentally check out of day-to-day life and check into the metaphysical “force” of the hunt. I try to be hyperaware of the task at hand. If I can control my mind, I can control my pace. And if I control my breathing, I control my mind. Speedy travel and a racing mind are poison to the still hunter looking to bag a buck on foot. The mental aspect of still hunting cannot be overstated. If you have a slow foot and a calm mind, you can shoot any deer in North America on a still hunt given the proper conditions.

Still Hunting Gear

A minimalist approach to still hunting is usually a good idea when choosing essential gear. I prefer to still hunt with a short-barrel firearm with a 2-7X scope, or open sights, and a quality sling. A short barrel seems to balance in both hands well, and it wields nicely while sneaking through the timber. The scope is almost exclusively on 2X, and I find it much easier to zoom up in power to spot a deer at ground level than it is to have an encounter and need to quickly zoom down in a hurry up close.

Still hunting with archery gear is challenging, but it can be done. I use a short axle-to-axle Mathews with their quick detach quiver. Personally, I hate carrying a bow during a still hunt. And mine resides on my back attached to a backpack with a device called a Bow Spider. This allows me to quickly deploy it when action calls for it, but it also allows for more balanced and streamlined travel.

As far as other essentials, I like to still hunt with a Guide Series chest harness from Vortex. It houses a pair of their 8×42 binoculars, a range finder, a wind checker and my knife and tags. This leaves no gear in my pants to snag on brush and makes it easy to get to.

For camouflage, I prefer neutral tones of tan, brown, gray or olive green, opposed to commercially available patterns meant for tree stand hunts.

In the footwear department, I despise rubber knee-high boots for still hunting. They are helpful in the mud, but I like a nimble, lace-up boot like a Danner Pronghorn. If conditions call for ultimate silence, sometimes I go barefoot or with a thick wool sock. Then I’ll attach my boots to the back of my binocular chest rig with rubber coated wire gear ties. This fall, I plan on adding a pair of Silent Pursuit brand moccasins to the list. Ultimately, still hunting gear needs to be simple, functional, easy to access and silent.

Still Hunting Techniques

Still hunting your way to a big buck may sound simple, but it is quite challenging. Once you’ve got the proper conditions and gear, it’s time to start slipping through whitetail habitat. Whenever possible, the approach should begin with the wind in your face and the sun at your back or off to one shoulder. I tend to break up my approach in 10- or 20-yard increments, and I slowly creep forward step by step to the next landmark to stop beside. But these are not ordinary walking steps. I like to “fox walk” with a stride about half as long as a normal walking stride. The “fox walk” is a three-cadence stride, where you raise your knee high above the underbrush to step forward, then gently place the ball of the foot to the ground, and finally roll your foot to place it flat. Repeat the process with short strides from your trailing leg and feel the ground below your feet for obstacles as you go.

The process is slow and tedious, and it takes a lot of focus and balance. However, with enough practice, you can effectively sneak through the timber.

Spotting bedded whitetails can be immensely tough, and the reason for the snail’s pace is to take the time to visualize everything. Looking for an antler tine in the brush or the flicker of a white tail can be a giveaway for a bedded buck’s location. You must be as thorough as possible, scanning the terrain and habitat for sign of prey. Use the terrain to your advantage and slowly peek over the next ridge or down into the next bottom.

If you can get it, snow helps the still hunter tremendously. It more easily allows you to cut a big set of buck tracks and stalk their maker, creating a very intense hunting experience. Sometimes, I’ll stop and rest a spell in some natural cover and take a mental break. I’ve found this helps restore my vigilance when I continue. For added versatility, I’ve taken to still hunting with a stand on my back during the rut in somewhat of a hybrid combination.

Though I never climb very high on these hunts, one climbing stick or a couple screw-in steps can get me six to eight feet high up in natural cover very quickly. This method is a ton of fun when big bucks are chasing does all over, and I like to chase them too!

My Successes and Failures

Before everyone reading this figures me as some authority on still hunting whitetails, I assure you I’m not. Though I know how to do it, I fail more than I succeed. No doubt, when practicing this ancient method, I spook deer way more often than I kill. But like most things in whitetail hunting, it is the few and far between successes that make up for the struggle.

During muzzleloader season in 2013, I watched a big buck and a few does feed in a morning snowstorm. Then they headed into a small patch of cover to bed for the day. Around noon, I put some snow camo on and still hunted their way. Not an hour into the hunt, I peeked over a ridge to find the group bedded in a bottom out of the wind. I rested my smoke pole on a small tree and killed the buck when he stood from his bed.

In 2016, I still hunted my way through the timber on a sunny day during the rut, and I found an old target buck tending to a doe in a brush pile. He finally gave me a shot, but my arrow missed high. During the following year’s gun season, I took off on foot for that same buck in a drizzling rain. By luck, I found him in the back of a cattle pasture, down in a valley out of the weather and made my play. He spotted me in my final approach and sprang from the cover, giving me a short window to make a shot. And I dropped him before he fled. I knew the buck to be old, but to my surprise, using tooth cementum analysis, he was aged at 9 1/2 years old!

If I never live to shoot another trophy buck on a still hunt again, tagging an ancient whitetail with the most primitive of hunting methods is a feat I assume I will never top! Hopefully, you can apply this tactic with success, too.

Cut 1

With the deer on its back, lift its rump and slide something beneath its hindquarters to expose anal and/or vaginal openings. Using a sharp, “pointy” knife with a 4- to 6-inch blade, puncture the skin an inch to one side of the anus. Push the knife straight in to its hilt. Keeping it level and pointed straight ahead, cut a coring hole around the anus. If you shot a doe, include the vaginal opening in the cut.

Make one more knife pass around the pelvic canal’s interior to cut all connective tissue between the colon and pelvic canal. Don’t sever the colon. With one hand, tug lightly where the anus connects to it. Reach inside the pelvic canal with your index finger and tear any remaining connective tissue so the colon slides freely. Leave it and proceed.

Cut 2

Retrieve your knife and straddle the deer at its sternum, facing its rear. (Some hunters prefer to make this cut from the pelvis to sternum, but I recommend working from the sternum to the pelvis, as you can straddle the ribcage to keep the carcass fairly immobile.) Find the sternum bone’s flat surface and cut about a 5-inch slit through the hide atop the sternum. Point the knife toward the deer’s rear and hold it so the blade’s edge faces upward. With your free hand, form a “V” with your index and middle fingers and slide them safely beneath and behind the blade on each side.

Press your two guide fingers inside the cut on the sternum, push lightly into the abdomen and lift the hide from inside. With your two guide fingers leading the way, and being careful not to cut into the stomach and intestines below, use the blade’s tip to slice the hide from the sternum to the deer’s pelvis. Don’t cut into the pelvis; there’s no need to cut or saw through the pelvic bone. At this point, you can also remove a buck’s penis and scrotum, or a doe’s udders.

Cut 3

Pull the cavity open and locate the diaphragm. This is a taut membrane separating the chest cavity (lungs and heart) from the liver, stomach and intestines. Carefully cut the diaphragm away from both sides of the body cavity to the spine below.

Cut 4

Using your free hand, reach far inside the chest cavity to the neck and find the esophagus (windpipe), which feels like the ribbed tube on an elk call or vacuum cleaner. Using extreme care, reach up inside with your knife and cut through the esophagus above where you’re holding it with your other hand.

While keeping one hand firmly around the esophagus, withdraw your knife and lay it on the ground. Now reach back inside, grip the esophagus with both hands and pull firmly. Everything inside the deer—stem to stern—will pull free of the deer’s interior. You’ll need to pull hard at times to tear some connective tissue, but more cuts shouldn’t be needed.

Watch the innards as you pull them from the abdomen. If the bladder is full, guide it gently with one hand as it slides out with the rest of the entrails. If you properly cored the anus and colon, they’ll pull into the abdomen and slide out with everything else.

Flip the deer belly down and splay its legs to drain pooled blood from the body cavity. While it drains, clean and stow your gear for the pack-out.

Follow these steps, and gutting the deer will be your easiest task of the day.

Today I’m going to show you the best red dot scope for turkey hunting.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over a dozen optics alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best red dot sight, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Why use a red dot sight to hunt turkey?

Turkey hunting needs reliable magnification and durability. Red dot sights are known for fast target acquisition, though, and turkey hunters have to move quick.

Red dot sights have unlimited eye relief, so you can use your peripheral vision. They’re a lighter red dot scope for turkey hunting across hard terrain. Basically, turkey hunters should use a red dot.

What qualities should you look for?

Not all red dots are built equally. Some are manufactured with better parts while others are designed for a specific purpose. With that in mind, here are some important factors to consider.

Lens Clarity

When you’re turkey hunting, quickness matters. A big part of being able to sight on your target is the reticle. Some red dots have larger dot reticles that can make it hard to see everything.

Since turkey hunting is outdoors, it also helps to have a green dot option. Red dots are great for certain environments, but green is better for outdoor use. It’s just a little more expensive.

The price is worth it, though. Green dot reticles are better to stand out against tree surroundings.

Design

You never know how long you’ll be turkey hunting, so it’s good to have lighter gear. A red dot sight doesn’t weigh as much as rifle scopes, and they’re usually more mobile.

It’s also important to have durable construction. You might even want a red dot sight that’s small enough to co-witness, so remember your turkey hunting goals.

Battery

Most red dot sights for turkey hunting use batteries that you’ll have to replace when they run out. It’s better to use one that has a common battery. Of course, you also want your battery to last.

Battery life can depend on a number of factors beyond hours of use. The brightness setting you need for turkey hunting, for example, can drain the battery faster.

Versatility

If you’re like me, you have a few guns in your collection. It’s always better if the red dot sight, like something from Vortex, can fit on several, or all, of them. This can save you money and give an accuracy edge to your shooting across the board.

The Best Red Dot Scope for Turkey Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best red dot scopes for turkey hunting:

1. Trijicon MRO: Best Overall
2. Aimpoint PRO: Best for Long Range
3. Holosun 510c: Best for the Money
4. Vortex Venom: Best for Budget

1. Trijicon MRO: Best Overall Red Dot Scope

One of the best manufacturers out there is Trijicon, and their MRO has quickly become my favorite red dot. It has an impressive number of features, but you’ll definitely pay for them.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

Trijicon built the MRO with efficiency in mind. It has a multi-coated lens, so I haven’t had issues with smudges or clarity.

I love how easy it is to use, too. The MRO has 8 ambidextrous settings for brightness, with 4 of them meant for night turkey hunting. The 2 MOA reticle has an intense dot that I can see in countless conditions.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlimited eye relief is a great feature of red dot sights for turkey hunting. However, the Trijicon MRO stands out with one of the best fields of vision I’ve seen, literally.

Durability and Weight

The high-grade aluminum tube is matte black. It only weighs a little over 5 ounces, so it’s easy on my arms for longer turkey hunting. The 2.6-inch length also lets me mount a rifle scope to co-witness.

Once I mounted it, the MRO didn’t shift at all from recoil. Even my shotgun sights didn’t move my zero, so it’s a serious piece of machinery. Trijicon’s optic is waterproof and extremely durable.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The adjustment knobs on my MRO give me a lot of control over the settings. Each click is ½ MOA with a total range of 70 MOA for elevation and windage.

I don’t have any trouble getting to the knobs, either. The elevation is on top of the red dot sight and windage is controlled on the side.

Parallax & Magnification

The MRO is parallax-free, so the red dot doesn’t move with the sight. I haven’t had any issues with precision or maintaining my target. As with most red dots, the magnification is 1x.

Mounting & Rings

If you need a red dot sight that can mount most of the weapons in your collection, Trijicon has you covered. I’ve been able to put it on every weapon I own, so it works for shotgun sights.

On top of that, the MRO comes with a quick-release mount. If there was a situation where I could co-witness, which hasn’t happened yet, I could swap out scopes easily.

Battery

A highlight of the MRO is the battery. I’ve never had to replace it and it’s supposed to last for 5 continuous years. I also haven’t noticed any issues with the higher brightness levels.

Is the Trijicon MRO worth it?

It’s a little more expensive, but the Trijicon MRO is one of the best red dots I’ve ever used for anything. That means it’s perfect for any turkey hunting needs.

Why? It’s got:

• 2 MOA red dot
• Multi-coated lens
• Fantastic brightness settings
• 5-year battery use
• Quality components

For the price you’re paying, Trijicon doesn’t have my favorite warranty. It only lasts 3 years, you need proof of purchase, and it’s non-transferrable. Still, with the durability, I don’t foresee needing to repair or replace my red dot sight anytime soon.

If you want efficiency without the Trijicon price, though, you might like the Burris FastFire III. It’s a little older, but it’s got some great features, like a 3 MOA reticle for improved accuracy.

2. Aimpoint PRO: Best Long Range Red Dot Scope (rewrite)

Another trusted name in sights for turkey hunting is Aimpoint. They offer the ACO and the upgraded Aimpoint PRO, and I always recommend the latter if you can afford it. There’s a reason law enforcement and the military use the PRO.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

Similar to the Trijicon, the Aimpoint PRO has a 2 MOA reticle and multi-coated lenses. The lens reduces glare, so I’ve never had a problem shooting during the daytime.

Thanks to the red dot picture quality, turkey hunting at 150 yards or farther. With some sights for turkey hunting, night vision makes the image grainy. The PRO retains a clear picture.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You have the traditional unlimited eye relief with a PRO. I can see everything in my field of view clearly, so I can watch for movement outside of my red dot sight.

Durability and Weight

Aimpoint is one of the best manufacturers in optics. They use quality parts for their red dot scope for turkey hunting, so I’ve never had any issues with durability. The PRO’s tube is made of aircraft-grade aluminum.

The matte-black finish has water wicking and it’s waterproof, so you don’t have to worry about rain. Humidity isn’t even a problem, because the tube is sealed to be fog-proof.

The PRO is shock-proof and scratch-proof. I’ve used mine for a while and it’s survived all of my turkey hunting trips without a scratch. I was surprised at how tough it is, since it’s only 11.6 ounces.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs on the Aimpoint PRO are covered with aluminum caps. They’re safe, and easy to adjust with the included tool. With ½ MOA clicks, I was able to zero my PRO at 100 yards with ease.

Parallax & Magnification

The Aimpoint PRO is parallax-free with a 1x magnification, which is pretty standard for a red dot sight.

Mounting & Rings

The PRO mounts on a low-profile Picatinny rail. Since I’ve mounted it, I haven’t had to worry about it moving from recoil on any of my firearms.

Plus, the low profile helps with my field of view. The PRO works if you need shotgun sights for turkey hunting.

Battery

The Aimpoint PRO red dot uses a 2L76 battery, which is a little less common. Still, it can run continuously for 30,000 hours, so you won’t be replacing it for at least 3 years.

The highest brightness settings might affect that, but I haven’t had any issues with battery life in the last year. My PRO has 10 brightness options. 6 of them are for daytime shooting.

The back 4 are specifically built for night vision compatibility. That means I don’t have to worry if I’m still turkey hunting when the sun goes down, and the battery hasn’t failed me yet.

Is the Aimpoint PRO worth it?

I’d argue that the Aimpoint ACO and the PRO are both worth it, but the PRO is definitely superior. The ACO has similar features, but they don’t stack up to the PRO for long range.

Here’s why:

• Waterproof, fog-proof, shockproof
• 10 settings for brightness
• 30,000 hour battery life
• Night vision

Aimpoint has a pretty good warranty, depending on your purpose. If you’re using your PRO for competitive or professional shooting, it’s only good for 2 years.

Personal use at the range and turkey hunting, though, comes with a 10-year warranty for defects, repairs, and replacement.

3. Holosun 510c: Best for the Money Red Dot Scope

One of the newer names that impressed me is Holosun. They offer a number of optics for different needs, and the 510c reflex sight is a perfect red dot sight for turkey hunting.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

The multi-coated lens of my 510c is clear, and the LED reticle helps make the image pop. It comes with a red or green dot reticle, which is perfect for anyone with astigmatism or eye struggles.

One feature that separates the Holosun is that it can switch reticles. While I love the 2 MOA red dot, it can swap to a 65 MOA circle. It can even combine the two for a dot inside a circle.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlimited eye relief and a wide field of view are pretty standard with the 510c. I didn’t notice anything wrong or better.

Durability and Weight

The Holosun 510c weighs just over 8 ounces. The high-grade aluminum tube is also 3.3 inches long, so it easily fits on a rail to co-witness. I love that the sight has a titanium hood, too.

Holosun uses great products for components, so I haven’t put a dent in my 510c. It’s been on many turkey hunting trips without any issues, especially since it’s water- and dust-proof.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The 510c comes with a T10 L key, which is used to adjust the elevation and windage knobs. It’s easy enough to do on the fly, and the ½ MOA clicks make it easy to zero your red dot sight.

Both elevation and windage adjustments max out at 50 MOA.

Parallax & Magnification

My Holosun 510c is parallax-free past 50 yards with a 1x magnification. However, the anti-reflective coating on my lenses helps with farther shots.

Mounting & Rings

One thing that I’d use as a con is that it doesn’t come with a mount. However, it can be mounted to be a low-profile, absolute co-witness red dot sight. It’s easy to mount with the tool, too. This is great for shotgun sights for turkey hunting.

Battery

Thankfully, the Holosun 510c uses a CR2032 battery, which is very easy to find a replacement for. With 50,000 hours of battery life, though, you won’t need to.

Not only can the battery last for a long time, but Holosun extended that efficiency with two amazing features: Shake Awake and Solar Failsafe.

The former means your 510c will turn on when it senses motion. The latter means that your Holosun red dot sight can use solar power to conserve battery if you’re in the sun.

As for brightness levels, you have 12 settings to choose from. 10 of them are for daylight, and I like to keep mine around 7 or 8, depending. 11 and 12 are perfect for night vision, too, so I’ve gotten a lot of use out of the 510c.

Is the Holosun 510c worth it?

Definitely. Holosun may be newer, but they’ve certainly done their homework. The 510c delivers a premium red dot sight at a premium price.

Why? It’s got…

• 3 reticle options
• Extended battery plus solar options
• 12 brightness settings

Holosun has a 10-year warranty on their red dot sights. That amount of time is great, because the durability and battery of this sight mean I won’t need to consider a warranty for a lot of years.

4. Vortex Venom: Best Budget Red Dot Scope

If you’re operating on a budget, Vortex is one of the best manufacturers you can look at. The Vortex Venom isn’t necessarily the cheapest, but it’s the best quality for your dollar.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

For starters, the Venom sticks out because it has a reticle that can switch between 3 MOA and 6 MOA. Different red dot sizes can be better for short- or long-range shots.

Whether you use 6 MOA for long-range shots or not, you still want a clear sight picture. The lenses on the Venom are fully multi-coated for the perfect image.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As usual, you’re getting unlimited eye relief and you can see everything inside and out of your Vortex Venom.

Durability and Weight

Something that I love about the Venom is how light it is. While none of the red dot sights on this list are heavy, 1.1 ounces takes the cake.

Aluminum is a lightweight material, which is why the Vortex’s tube is made with that. The tube itself is sealed with an o-ring to prevent fog or humidity from affecting the image.

You’ll get a waterproof, fog-proof, scratch-resistant red dot scope thanks to the ArmorTek coat to your Venom. For a red dot sight under $300, Vortex makes a great argument as the best.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The adjustments on your elevation and windage knobs aren’t quite as precise as some of the more-expensive sights. Still, 1 MOA isn’t bad and they’re not hard to get to.

The max range of elevation and windage is 130 MOA and 100 MOA, respectively. It was easy to zero and I’ve barely had to readjust since.

Parallax & Magnification

Even though it has a 1x magnification with the typical parallax-free nature of red dots, I can easily hit things at 150 yards consistently.

Mounting & Rings

The Venom is also one of the most versatile red dot sights. You can put it on a Weaver or Picatinny rail and it’s adjustable for the height of your cheek weld.

Vortex made an affordable red dot sight for turkey hunters. If you need shotgun sights when you’re turkey hunting, this could be the red dot for you.

Battery

One restriction of the Venom is the 150 hours of battery life, but that’s at the brightest setting. Your CR1632 battery can handle all 10 levels of brightness for a long time.

While the 150 hours for peak brightness may seem low, you’ll get a continuous 30,000 at the lowest. It’s about your purpose and when you plan to go turkey hunting.

Is the Vortex Venom worth it?

One of the best names in optics is Vortex and the Venom has a lot of great features for the cost. It’s the only reflex sight on this list and worth adding to your collection.

Why? It’s got…

• 3 or 6 MOA reticles
• Variable battery life
• 10 brightness options
• Lightweight composition

Another great quality for the cost is the Vortex warranty. It’s transferable with a lifetime warranty to get repairs no-questions-asked. I’ve loved their customer service so far and they work fast.

Still, if you’d rather go even lower, you can get the Vortex StrikeFire II for $50 less. It’s also a great red dot scope for turkey hunting on a budget. The StrikeFire II has similar features for a little less.

Final Verdict

The best red dot scope for turkey hunting comes down to preference and purpose, but my top recommendation would be the Trijicon MRO. It’s more expensive, but you’re paying for quality and versatility.

You also get both colors of reticle and a long-lasting battery for any situation. If you need a red dot scope for a unique reason, though, you can’t go wrong with the other three.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best red dot scope for turkey hunting guide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which red dot sight will you pick for turkey hunting? Or perhaps you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

FAQ:

Standard Operating Procedure – FOX006

DOWNLOAD AS PRINTABLE PDF

Background

The introduced European red fox (Vulpes vulpes) has a significant impact on native fauna and agricultural production. Fox control methods include lethal baiting, trapping, shooting, den fumigation, den destruction and exclusion fencing.

Trapping may be useful for the control of nuisance animals but is not effective as a general fox control method.

Cage traps are used to capture problem foxes in urban/residential areas and other areas where it is unacceptable or undesirable to use 1080 or leg-hold traps. Animals trapped in a cage can be transported away from the area for euthanasia. Padded-jaw, leg-hold traps can only be used at sites where the animal can be killed by shooting while still held in the trap. (Refer to Trapping of foxes using padded-jaw traps.)

From an animal welfare perspective, cage traps are preferred over leg-hold traps as fewer injuries are sustained and non-target animals can be released unharmed.

This standard operating procedure (SOP) is a guide only; it does not replace or override the legislation that applies in the relevant state or territory jurisdiction. The SOP should only be used subject to the applicable legal requirements (including OH&S) operating in the relevant jurisdiction.

Application

• Trapping is time-consuming and labour intensive and is therefore an inefficient method for large-scale fox control in Australia.
• Cage traps are generally not effective in rural environments where foxes are more suspicious of man-made structures.
• Traps have the potential to cause significant suffering and distress so should only be used when there is no suitable alternative.
• Humane and successful trapping requires extensive training and experience.
• Selection of appropriate traps and trap sites will maximise chance of capture and minimise the distress caused to target and non-target animals.
• Every effort must be made to avoid target and non-target deaths from factors such as exposure, shock, capture myopathy and predation.
• Once trapped, foxes are either euthanased by shooting at the site of capture or taken to an appropriate site away from residential areas to be shot whilst still in the cage or after transfer to a bag.
• Traps must be used in accordance with relevant state and territory legislation (see Appendix 1). In some states for example, Western Australia, a permit may be required to trap within certain municipalities.
• Shooting of foxes should only be performed by skilled operators who have the necessary experience with firearms and who hold the appropriate licences and accreditation. Storage and transportation of firearms and ammunition must comply with relevant legislation requirements.

Animal welfare considerations

Impact on target animals

• Foxes are likely to suffer distress from being confined in a cage trap and they can sometimes be injured while trying to escape, although the potential for injury is less than that for leg-hold traps.
• Cage traps can cause extensive injuries to the teeth and mouth of trapped foxes; this is minimised by using a small mesh size (50 mm is recommended).
• Traps must be inspected daily to prevent suffering and possible death from exposure, thirst, starvation and/or shock.
• It is preferable to set up traps at sites where vegetation can provide shade and shelter.
• Shade cloth or hessian can be for used for protection during extremes of weather. In hot weather, water should be provided and in cold weather bedding should be available inside the cage. Where possible, trapping should be avoided when adverse weather conditions threaten the welfare of trapped animals.
• Captured animals must be approached carefully and quietly to reduce panic, further stress and risk of injury.
• Trapped foxes must be euthanased as quickly and humanely as possible.
• If transporting a trapped fox away from the capture site to be euthanased, the cage should be covered with hessian or a blanket to provide shelter from direct sunlight, wind and rain and to minimise stress from visual threats.
• To minimise the animal welfare implications of orphaning dependant cubs, it is preferable not to undertake trapping when vixens are lactating (i.e. August/September).
• If lactating vixens are shot, reasonable efforts should be made to find dependent cubs and kill them quickly and humanely by either shooting (with a single shot to the brain) or by fumigation of the den with carbon monoxide (refer to Fumigation of fox dens with carbon monoxide).

Impact on non-target animals

• Traps must not be set near areas that are regularly frequented by non-target species.
• Traps are not target specific; therefore other species such as birds and reptiles may be caught.
• Non-target animals caught in traps must be examined for injuries and signs of illness or distress and dealt with as follows: – Animals which are unharmed or have only received minimal injuries such as minor cuts or abrasions should be immediately released at the site of capture. – Animals which have more severe injuries or which are suffering from thermal stress should receive appropriate attention. An animal suffering from thermal stress can initially be placed in a suitable quiet holding area which provides warmth or shade to allow recovery before release. Animals with treatable injuries that cannot be immediately released or those failing to recover from thermal stress should be presented to a veterinarian or a registered wildlife carer for treatment. – Animals that have injuries which are untreatable or which would compromise their survival in the wild should be euthanased using a technique that is suitable for the species. For more information on euthanasia techniques (refer to GEN001 Methods of Euthanasia).
• If a dog or a cat is caught in the trap, it should be taken to the nearest council pound for assessment. In some states this is a legal requirement. Traps placed in urban/residential areas have a reasonable likelihood of catching owned dogs or cats.

Health and safety considerations

• Trapped foxes are dangerous to handle and can inflict serious bites. If these foxes are killed while still in the cage, there should be no need to handle them directly. However, if handling is necessary, leather gloves and a catching pole should be used. Operators must be protected by tetanus immunisation in case of bite infection.
• Firearms are hazardous. All people should stand well behind the shooter when a fox is being shot. The line of fire must be chosen to prevent accidents or injury from stray bullets or ricochets.
• Care must be taken when handling fox carcasses as they may carry diseases such as hydatidosis and sarcoptic mange that can affect humans and other animals. A fox with obvious mange should only be handled while wearing gloves. Routinely wash hands after handling all fox carcasses.

Equipment required

Traps

• Wire mesh cage traps are used. These can be obtained from commercial suppliers and are available in a variety of sizes (eg a fox size cage is 90 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm, and made of 2.5 mm welded wire with a mesh size of 50 mm). The traps have a spring door that is activated either by a treadle plate or a hook mechanism.

Lures

• Olfactory stimuli such as fox faeces or urine (or a mixture of both) or a commercially prepared lure (e.g. synthetic fermented egg) may be used to lure foxes into the trap.
• The attractiveness of lures will vary with season and location.

Meat baits

• A handful of meat bait is placed inside the cage trap. Rabbit, lamb, chicken, and kangaroo have all been used as bait.
• Attractiveness and palatability of the bait will vary with season and location.

Firearms and ammunition

• Firearms no smaller than a .17 calibre rimfire with hollow/soft point ammunition are recommended for euthanasia.
• The accuracy and precision of firearms should be tested against inanimate targets prior to the commencement of any shooting operation.

Procedures

Selection of trap sites

• Traps should be set along fences, tracks and trails or areas frequented by foxes for example, scent pads, scratch points, holes in fences, around carcases.
• The location of all trap sites must be accurately recorded. This information should be readily available to others in case the trapper is unable to return to check traps.
• Do not place in areas where the traps may be interfered with/damaged by large stock or humans.

Placing and setting the trap

• It is preferable to set traps at the end of each day and check early each morning. If traps are left set during the day, they should be checked again in late afternoon.
• Before setting each trap ensure that it is functioning properly.
• Where possible place the traps parallel to objects such as fences, logs or sheds with the rear of the cage against an obstruction to prevent foxes taking the main bait without going into the trap.
• Cage traps should be set squarely on the ground and the doors of the trap bent upward to increase the openness of the trap space.
• Place the meat bait at the rear of the trap, attached to the hook mechanism if present. A second piece of meat is placed at the mouth of the trap.
• Cover the floor of the trap with 3-5cm of soil.
• If using lures place them in suitable positions inside and outside the trap.
• The trap should be pegged to the ground to prevent the animal from tipping it over and injuring itself and/or releasing the trap door.

Shooting of foxes

• Trapped live foxes should be destroyed by shooting whilst still inside the cage trap.
• Unnecessary people should keep away from the area to allow the fox to become less agitated. The shooter should approach the animal in a calm and quiet manner.
• To maximise the impact of the shot and to minimise the risk of misdirection the range should be as short as possible, that is, 3-5 cm from the head.
• Never fire when the fox is moving its head, be patient and wait until the fox is motionless before shooting. Accuracy is important to achieve a humane death. One shot to the head should ensure instantaneous loss of consciousness and rapid death without resumption of consciousness.
• Shots must be aimed to destroy the major centres at the back of the brain near the spinal cord. This can be achieved by one of the following methods (see Diagram 1):

Frontal position (front view)

The firearm is aimed at a point midway between the level of the eyes and the base of the ears, but slightly off to one side so as to miss the bony ridge that runs down the middle of the skull. The aim should be slightly across the centreline of the skull and towards the spine.

Temporal position (side view)

The firearm is aimed horizontally at the side of the head at a point midway between the eye and the base of the ear.

• Death of shot animals should always be confirmed by observing the following: – absence of rhythmic, respiratory movements – absence of eye protection reflex (corneal reflex) or ‘blink’ – a fixed, glazed expression in the eyes – loss of colour in mucous membranes (become mottled and pale without refill after pressure is applied). If death cannot be verified, a second shot to the head should be taken immediately.

References

• Baker PJ, Harris S, Robertson CPJ, Saunders G and White PCL (2001). Differences in the capture rate of cage-trapped red foxes Vulpes vulpes and an evaluation of rabies control measures in Britain. Journal of Applied Ecology 38:823-835.
• Canadian Council on Animal Care (2003). Guidelines on the care and use of wildlife. CCAC, Ottawa, Canada. Kay B, Gifford E, Perry P and van de Ven R (2000). Trapping efficiency for foxes (Vulpes vulpes) in central New South Wales: age and sex biases and the effects of reduced fox abundance. Wildlife Research 27:547-552.
• Longair JA, Finley GG, Laniel MA, MacKay C, Mould K, Olfert ED, Roswell H and Preston A (1991). Guidelines for euthanasia of domestic animals by firearms. Canadian Veterinary Journal 32:724-726.
• Saunders G, Coman B, Kinnear J and Braysher M (1995). Managing vertebrate pests: foxes. Australian Government Publishing Service, Canberra.
• UFAW (1988). Humane killing of animals (4th Ed). Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar, England.

The Centre for Invasive Species Solutions manages these documents on behalf of the Environment and Invasives Committee (EIC). The authors of these documents have taken care to validate the accuracy of the information at the time of writing. This information has been prepared with care but it is provided “as is”, without warranty of any kind, to the extent permitted by law.

Sea sponges are a type of marine animal that resembles a soft, porous sponge. Humans do not commonly eat them.

Though they are not food, They are instrumental in daily life. Also, they are helping nature by cleaning the oceans.

Can You Eat Sea Sponges

You can not eat Sea Sponges. Eating a sea sponge can be dangerous as they are not meant to be eaten. They are essential multi-celled animals made of silica (a glass-like material). They don’t have any brain, backbone, or nerves. Sea sponges are not plants; they are animals.

Even if someone tries it for dinner or as an adventure, it will taste like a spongy glass type. Taking them as food is regarded as a bad idea.

Although there are some uses of sea sponges in the household and for humans. We’ll talk about that later.

What Happens If You Eat Sponges

You should think again if you’re considering snacking on a sponge. While These ocean-dwelling creatures may look harmless, and it’s unlikely that eating a sponge will kill you, they can cause severe health problems if ingested.

Their cells contain toxins that can irritate your digestive system if you eat them.

Additionally, sea sponges are often full of sand and other debris that can damage your teeth or cause an intestinal blockage if swallowed.

Also, sea sponges are filter feeder that consumes small particles from the water around them. If you were to eat one of these sponges, it can cause gastrointestinal issues like nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The sponges’ sharp edges can also damage your digestive tract, leading to bleeding and infection.

If you accidentally eat a sponge, drink plenty of fluids and see your doctor if you start experiencing any symptoms.

Benefits of Sea Sponges

Sea sponges are known for their absorbent properties. It means they can help remove dirt and oil from the skin, leaving it feeling clean and refreshed. They are also gentle on the skin, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

In addition to being absorbent, sea sponges are also exfoliating. This means that they can help remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, revealing healthier and smoother skin underneath.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a natural way to clean your home, sea sponges can absorb excess oil and dirt from surfaces, making them ideal for cleaning kitchens and bathrooms.

They can also act as natural filters for your aquarium, helping to keep the water quality high and the environment healthy.

Additionally, sea sponges can help aerate your soil, making it more fertile and better able to support plant growth.

More recently, they have also been used in procedures such as wound healing and surgeries.

Key Facts About Sea Sponges

Sea sponges are among the simplest and most ancient animals on Earth. They first appeared in the fossil record about 600 million years ago. Sea sponges are thought to have evolved from a group of single-celled organisms called choanoflagellates.

Though they lack a centralized nervous system, they are capable of primitive responses to stimuli.

There are about 5,000 species of sea sponges. They come in various shapes and sizes, from small and round to large and tube-like. Sea sponges can be found in all oceans, ranging from the intertidal zone to over 8,000 meters (26,000 feet).

Though they may look soft and fragile, sea sponges are pretty strict. They have a complicated system of tiny pores and channels that allow them to filter water for food. Sea sponges also use these channels to pump water through their bodies for respiration.

Despite their simple appearance, sea sponges play an essential role in the ecosystem. They provide homes for many small creatures and help to clean the ocean waters.

Finally, their ability to regenerate lost body parts sets sea sponges apart from other animals. If a sponge is damaged or cut in half, it can regrow into two new sponges.

This fantastic ability has made them a valuable commodity both for scientific research and for use in medical treatments.

What Do Sea Sponges Eat

Most people know sea sponges are filter feeders, but what does that mean? Filter feeders strain food particles from water using specialized cells.

The most common type of food particle that sea sponges eat is microscopic algae called diatoms. Diatoms are single-celled algae with a hard shell made of silica.

Sea sponges can also eat other tiny organisms, such as bacteria and protozoans.

Sea sponges can extract nutrients from the water around them using several methods. One method is called suspension feeding.

It is when water is drawn into the sponge and pushed back out through tiny pores in its body. The pores are lined with special filter-feeding cells called choanocytes.

Are Sea Sponges Alive

Yes, sea sponges are alive. Although they lack some critical characteristics associated with other animals, such as a nervous system, brain, or muscles, they are still complex organisms with many of the exact basic needs as other animals.

They don’t move, they don’t eat, and they don’t seem to respond to their environment in any way. However, they are sensitive to their environment and can react to water temperature or quality changes.

It makes them an essential part of the ocean ecosystem. It helps scientists understand the health of the overall ocean environment.

Why Sea Sponges So Expensive

There are several reasons why sea sponges cost more than your average sponge. For one, they must be harvested from the ocean floor. It’s challenging, as divers must go deep into the water to find them. Once the sponges are collected, they must be carefully cleaned and dried before being sold.

Another reason sea sponges are more costly is because of their quality.

In addition, sea sponges are very slow-growing, so they can’t be harvested as quickly as other marine creatures, making them a limited resource.

Finally, sponges are delicate creatures that can be easily damaged, meaning there is often a lot of wastage when harvested. All of these factors contribute to the high cost of sea sponges.

People Also Ask

Conclusion

Sea Sponges are not a food source for humans. people should not eat them even for experimental purposes. we deeply researched sea sponges and ended up with some key findings.

1. Sea sponges are a type of animal that lives in the ocean.
2. They are not plants, even though they look like plants.
3. Sea sponges are mostly made of silica and they don’t have a brain or a nervous system.
4. Most sea sponges live attached to the ocean floor.
5. Sea sponges come in many different shapes and sizes, and they can be any color.
6. Some sea sponges are very small, but some can be pretty big.
7. Sea sponges eat by filter feeding, which means they pump water through their bodies to catch tiny food particles to eat.
8. They are very useful for human skin.
9. Also, they are an awesome choice for bathroom accessories.

Here are Some Interesting Fish FactsCan you eat bowfin fish?Can you eat sheepshead fish?

Visit foodjustify.com to discover more foods!

For the past couple of decades, I’ve held the belief that deer move more in the rain. Not heavy rain, mind you, but light to moderate precipitation. I can count the number of times I’ve sat in a treestand or ground blind, had little deer movement, and then they came out of the woodworks as the rain started falling from the sky.

I killed my biggest buck ever in the rain, which I self-filmed for Realtree’s Monster Bucks.

I sat through a steady rain shower, and as it began to subside, deer poured out of the bedding area in front of me. First, a couple of nice 2-year-olds. Then a yearling buck. Then the giant velvet 8-pointer. Even more bucks, does, and fawns walked out afterward. They all fed out in the clover in front of me, all while it misted rain. Eventually, I got a shot opportunity and made it count.

That wasn’t the only incident I’ve seen or shot deer during or just after a rain event. It’s happened numerous times.

That said, I think rain is more likely to get deer on their feet on warmer days, especially during the early season. Generally, rain cools you down, which gives deer reprieve from the heat, effectively getting them up on their feet.

I think rain showers that occur mid- to late-afternoon have even more power to get deer up and moving. When conditions align with crepuscular (dawn and dusk) movement, I believe it increases deer activity, even more than crepuscular movements without additional triggers.

But I’m not a biologist, and my experiences aren’t peer-reviewed research studies. So, let’s look at some deer science.

What’s Does Research Show about Deer Movement in the Rain?

Several colleges with teams dedicated to whitetail biology and behavior have attempted to address this question. While general whitetail behavior isn’t the focus of most wildlife agencies and DNRs (they focus on resource management), even some of them have studied the impact of rain on whitetail movement.

said Levi Jaster, a big game program coordinator for the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks.

Moriah Boggess, a deer biologist with the Indiana DNR, initially expressed similar input.

Some Research Shows More Deer Movement in Light to Moderate Rainfall

Interestingly, some biologists and experts have discovered data or had experiences that suggest deer do, in fact, move more, if only slightly, during light to moderate rainfall. Both Boggess and Jaster have mixed feelings on the subject.

Boggess says that other researchers have found light rain can increase deer movement, but heavy rain can decrease it. Still, he says there is no consistent effect of rain across all the whitetail’s range. That’s a reasonable conclusion, though, mainly since whitetails inhabit a very diverse range of climates and habitats.

Despite the inconclusive research studies, Boggess’ own experiences suggest deer do move more during light rain.

Even Jaster relays that there might be something to it.

The scientific results on record are still inconclusive. The conclusion on whether or not deer move in the rain is likely somewhere in-between. Fortunately, you can test this theory on your own.

Some Pros and Cons of Hunting in the Rain

Rain can impact other aspects of deer hunting, too. General deer movement isn’t the only factor. Understanding how it limits hunters and how hunters can leverage it is important to know.

For example, most people believe that light rain and moisture increase the effectiveness of a deer’s nose. Boggess says,

Other negatives apply, too. Jaster says,

Don’t forget the positive aspects, though. It also helps to wash away scent, so there might be both positives and negatives.

The most significant advantage to rain might be quiet walking, though.

Boggess notes that rain softens twigs and leaves, which offers perfect stalking conditions. On rainy days, perhaps slowly still hunt and scout your way through deer habitat. Jaster says rain and wind likely make it more challenging to see hunters’ movements, too. So, that’s good.

Overall, it’s still not completely understood whether or not deer move more in the rain.

But I think deer tend to move more during light rainfall, especially during the early season when temperatures are warmer and when the rain event occurs in the early morning or late afternoon. Perhaps only the deer I hunt like their salad with dressing, but I doubt that’s true.

No matter what, the more deer data you can start accumulating, especially from the deer you hunt, the better. You might discover some exciting things about the specific deer you hunt.

The Incredible, Edible Brassica

A look at which brassicas are best at various times of the season and under different conditions.

Todd Amenrud

From the time Toxey Haas and BioLogic first guided “whitetail deer management” into the age of planting brassicas, we have been researching, learning more about them and understanding better how to utilize different brassicas to help us accomplish a wide variety of management goals. If you have enough ground to devote to your food plot program, most managers would agree that a well-diversified food program with an assortment of plants that will offer your herd what they need regardless of the time of the season or current conditions is the way to go. Some of the plants you choose would likely be perennials, but for the best in attraction during the hunting season it’s hard to beat a food plot full of luscious late summer to fall planted annuals. When it comes to annuals, many readers know that brassicas are, in my opinion, the best deer food God ever created. They are my favorite plantings for numerous reasons; they are the most attractive, best producing (yield), most nutritious, easiest to plant and one of the hardiest growing food plot choices we have. Combine that with the fact that they’re also great for the soil. What’s not to like? Sure, I live in the North, but those in the South shouldn’t be so quick to snuff them. They work the same throughout the South, but closely examining the palatability timeframe and conditions under which each variety of brassica performs best is more important in the South than in northern climes. At first (about 20 years ago) we at BioLogic ran into a couple instances of having to battle the “whitetails’ learning curve.” When you introduce a plant deer have never seen before, one that if they tried it before the sugars had developed may have been bitter, it could take them a season or two to become accustomed to it. However, that was rare and I haven’t heard of it happening in years. Annuals, in general, are typically easy to plant and since these are late summer to fall plantings, (depending on your location north to south) the summer weed cycle should be over for the most part. While always called a fall planting, you’ll see that I call these late summer to fall plantings. Because if you wait to plant some of these until it’s literally fall (September 22 or 23, depending on the year and your location), in some areas you may end up with a failure, or at the very least you’re not getting the most out of the plants, especially brassicas. Many still plant their brassicas when they have always traditionally planted their cereal grains. In the northern region and into Canada, brassicas should be planted during July through early August and cereals planted from late July (in the far north around the Canadian border) through August or even September further south (Iowa, Illinois, Nebraska, etc). Obviously that should be adjusted a bit later the further south you go, all the way into October for the Deep South. Years ago, when Toxey Haas and Grant Woods first introduced brassicas to the food plot market, rape was the primary type of brassica used. As most of you probably know, brassicas require cold temperatures to convert the plants’ high levels of starch into sugar and transform it into its most attractive, palatable stage. Initially, for some in the South the brassicas weren’t reaching their most appealing state until after the hunting season was over. Since then, BioLogic has introduced other types of brassicas that develop their sugars much earlier, and even in the South are likely the best attraction and nutrition you can plant – bar none. A common progression during the hunting season would see your herd switch from legumes (both perennials like clover or alfalfa, or annuals like soybeans or cowpeas) to cereal grains (like oats, wheat or triticale) to brassicas (like radishes, turnips, rape and kale). While there are many other things we can offer our herd, with these three types of plantings your herd should have a palatable food choice throughout most of the hunting season or until each type of food runs out. Different crops will dramatically extend the palatability timeframe of your plot. To take that “variety approach” a step further, within every type of crop, by planting a different assortment of each it will also extend the amount of time your plot will remain attractive, especially when it comes to brassicas. From my experience, they will attack radishes first. Whitetails will first lay siege to the green tops, then finish by devouring every bit of the long root tubers. These aren’t your “auntie’s dinner radishes,” these are large tubers that resemble a “huge, white carrot” rather than our more familiar small, round, red and white radishes. My favorite blend is BioLogic’s Deer Radish, it’s not just my preferred brassica planting, it’s my favorite planting, period. From my experience they will begin eating these radishes as early as late August in the north and around early October further south (northern Alabama) until they’re gone. So if you plant enough, they can last throughout the season. Next, your whitetails will typically set their sights on various turnips and beets. While sugar beets are actually in a different plant family and are not a brassica, they are very similar. Just like turnips, they hold a high concentration of sucrose, however it is contained mostly in the root bulb (They still eat the tops.) as opposed to brassicas that have sugars contained throughout the plant, and the sugar presence is caused more by photosynthesis than cold temperatures. I usually see them hit these plants after the radishes, and I use them for attraction during the months of November and December and on until they’re gone. My favorite blend is Winter Bulbs & Sugar Beets, and just like the radishes, they will consume the entire plant. First they’ll eat the greens and then the root bulbs. The radishes are easier for them to pull out of the ground to consume, so with turnips and beets you’ll often see partially eaten bulbs or they’ll scoop out the top and inside of the turnip or beet so it looks like a “beet bowl” left in the soil.

Lastly, they tend to hit rape, canola and kale after the radishes, turnips and beets. These last three brassica types do not produce large root bulbs or tubers like radishes, beets or turnips, but they produce an amazing yield of sweet, green forage. I tend to use these last three brassica types more as winter nutrition than hunting time attraction, but especially when it comes to the blend Maximum, you may want to also plant some for hunting attraction. Maximum produces a yield of more succulent, nutritious forage than any other planting I’ve ever seen. While they certainly may hit these brassicas as soon as cold temperatures convert the plants’ huge green tops to become sweet, if you have radishes and turnips also planted, they’ll typically consume rape after the other two brassica types. Kale is especially cold hardy. Kale’s large leaves will stay green and attractive long into the winter even if covered by several feet of snow. I tend to utilize kale only as winter nutrition. Remember that the timeframe I’m suggesting for these to be their most attractive is just an estimate. It can vary from year to year and region to region. As an example, in the “big woods” where there isn’t a lot of agriculture or other crops to back up your food plots, they may eat any of these as fast as they come out of the ground. Or, if we have an unseasonably warm fall it may take the brassicas longer to develop their sugars, pushing back the entire attraction calendar. I didn’t want to be too northern biased in this piece, so I asked the “frenetic food plot scientist of Alabama,” Austin Delano, who also heads-up BioLogic’s Research and Development, “How do you notice whitetails reacting to each of these plant varieties throughout the south?”

Austin said, “I definitely agree with the order. I think deer density, surrounding food sources (or lack of), a deer herd’s familiarity with the plot, and weather conditions during that year are all variables that can determine how fast and when a brassica plot is consumed.”

He also echoed how important it is to have a “blend” with varying maturity rates and palatability timeframes.

Delano continued, “As far as a north/south comparison, I do think deer consume brassicas earlier in the fall the further north you go. Not just because the onset of cold weather changes the plants, but it also changes a deer’s metabolism and increases their need for heavier carbohydrate foods like brassicas. I also believe that brassica consumption (regardless of type) increases over time and gets earlier in the year when they are planted in the same area every year. In other words, deer that have several generations of exposure to brassicas typically use them earlier and more often.”

Basically he’s also talking about a learning curve, but now it’s working in the opposite direction, in the deer’s favor. I guess it’s in our favor too. The other great thing about brassicas is not only are they the best attraction I have ever seen, they are without a doubt the absolute best nutrition you can provide for your herd. With an average crude protein content of 32% to 38% (depending on the cultivar and stage of growth) and a TDN (Total Digestible Nutrients) of over 80%, that would suit me fine, but add to it they yield more than any other planting and they are great for the soil (radishes especially). Check mate! Brassicas win! As I said, best deer food God has ever created.

More often than not, I plant my cereals and brassicas separately, for several reasons. However, if a manager wants a fast, simple, “one and done” plot, a blend of cereals and brassicas (and sometimes other plants) together may be your ticket. Blends like Full Draw, Last Bite, Green Patch, or Winter Grass Plus provide brassicas mixed with cereal grains. An annual or bi-annual clover is sometimes added to provide extra nutrition or a flush of nutritious forage reemerging after dormancy the following spring. Delano also told me, in his home state of Alabama, he likes to mix Trophy Oats with Deer Radish. He said it’s an easy to do, “one and then you’re done” hunting plot. Provided you plant enough, this can keep them coming back for more throughout the entire hunting season. I don’t know anyone who tests more food plot options than Austin, or many who know as much about deer management, so when he says so, I take it as fact. There are several reasons why a manager may choose to plant each (oats and radishes) separately, but as a simple plan for an uncomplicated, yet diverse hunting plot I would consider this. Think about all the options we have to plant for whitetails, we’ve only partially covered brassicas (and one beet type). We didn’t even talk about spring planted crops that can also be very attractive to whitetails like corn, buckwheat or clover. Or other late summer/fall planted annuals like winter peas, which are amazingly appealing to whitetails. One important thing to mention is that brassicas can also be planted with perennials. In the North they traditionally plant perennials during the spring, but in the South this can be a great way to kill two birds with one planting. If you’re in the transitional region or north and habitually have problems with weeds in your perennials, planting a brassica/perennial blend during the late summer can produce a great start to a perennial plot. Blends like Perfect Plot or Premium Perennial are my go-to products for this. You just need to make certain when planted you give the perennials 50 to 60 days of growth so they can establish their root systems, which will ensure their survival and reemergence after winter dormancy. With the perennial/brassica option since obviously the brassicas are annuals and won’t come back, I would suggest that you over-seed with a pure perennial like Clover Plus or Non-Typical the following spring to fill in any spaces vacated by the annual brassicas growing there the previous year. In a very roundabout way, I guess I’ve tried to convey that “variety in a food plot program is important” and “brassicas are my favorite food plot crop.” All of the plants mentioned are great choices for a food plot, but they’re eaten at different times or under different conditions, which is exactly why it is wise to plant a variety if you have enough acreage to devote.