The Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) recently set turkey and deer hunting dates for the 2024-2024 seasons along with regulation changes for the 2024-2024 deer-hunting season.

The regulation changes include a new firearms early antlerless portion, a new firearms CWD portion and changes to firearms antlerless permit numbers in most counties. The hunting dates and regulation changes were approved by the Missouri Conservation Commission at its Dec. 2 open meeting in Jefferson City.

“The changes to deer hunting regulations for the 2024-2024 deer season were motivated by increasing deer numbers throughout much of Missouri and in response to changes in the distribution of chronic wasting disease (CWD) in the state,” said MDC Cervid Program Supervisor Jason Isabelle. “With a growing deer population in most Missouri counties, we’re increasing opportunities for hunters to harvest deer both within and outside of the CWD Management Zone next year.”

“With deer populations being at desired levels in most counties but continuing to increase, additional antlerless harvest is needed to stabilize deer numbers,” said Isabelle. “The creation of an early antlerless portion of firearms deer season and increasing the availability of antlerless permits in most counties will provide hunters with more opportunities to harvest antlerless deer and help meet our deer-management goals.”

According to MDC, firearms antlerless seasons that occur prior to the primary firearms season are not uncommon and several Midwestern states have established similar season portions.

“The early antlerless portion will help to increase antlerless deer harvest prior to the November portion of firearms season when the focus of many hunters is on harvesting a buck,” said Isabelle. “The timing of the early antlerless portion was designed to occur when weather conditions are generally comfortable and during a time that will minimize conflict with archery hunters, who spend the most time hunting during late October and early November as the rut approaches.”

CHANGES TO FIREARMS ANTLERLESS PERMIT NUMBERS

MDC has also increased the number of firearms antlerless permits hunters can fill in most counties, including allowing hunters to fill a firearms antlerless permit in Butler, Carter, Scott, and Wayne counties. MDC has also increased the number of firearms antlerless permits from two to four in 82 counties.

“Prior to 2014, firearms antlerless permit numbers were unlimited in 74 counties,” said Isabelle. “However, following the severe hemorrhagic disease outbreak that occurred throughout much of the state in 2012, we became much more conservative with firearms antlerless permit numbers to allow the deer population to rebound.”

He noted the deer population has steadily increased during the last decade, necessitating the liberalization of antlerless harvest opportunities to slow population growth and keep the deer population at desired levels.

Get regulation details and a list and map of allowed antlerless permit numbers by county from the MDC website at mdc.mo.gov/hunting-trapping/species/deer/regulation-changes-2024-24-deer-season

Detailed information on the new firearms early antlerless portion, the new firearms CWD portion, and changes to firearms antlerless permit numbers by county will also be included in the MDC 2024 Fall Deer & Turkey Regulations and Information booklet, available starting in July where permits are sold and online at mdc.mo.gov.

As soon as the sun goes down, you’re faced with an unfortunate reality.

For safety’s sake — or simply to remain on the right side of the law, depending on what you’re use case is — you have to stop shooting.

At least, you did, until night vision optics became a practical reality for recreational consumer-level shooters. These systems are cheaper, better, and easier to use than ever before, and they can make a ton of sense under the right circumstances.

The night vision marketplace can be confusing, but with our guide, you’ll be able to wade through the jargon and figure out what purchases make sense for you. Keep in mind, this isn’t meant to be an exhaustive survey of the night vision optic marketplace.

That would take many thousands of words and is probably beyond the need of most shooters. Instead, we’ll look at a few practical setups you might want to run, either for hunting or tactical applications.

Why Night Vision?

This is a question every shooter has to answer for him or herself.

Are you interested in night vision optics for a theoretical tactical advantage? Are you just a shooting enthusiast who wants to experiment with different situations and use cases?

Maybe you’re a hunter who can legally take certain types of game at night. In some places, deprivation permits allow hog hunting after dark — which is an excellent time to catch wild pigs out in the open … see our guide to pig hunting here.

Or perhaps you have a rat infestation and an air gun waiting for some target opportunities in a safe setting — (you have read our 5 Best Air Guns, right?).

Whatever the case, your intended application should determine what kind of night vision optic setup you purchase, and what you’re likely going to need to spend for effective results.

There are too many possible applications to cover optics for every scenario, so we’ll look at different types of night vision technology and specific optics, along with their range of suitable applications, to help you figure out what you’ll need in the field.

What is NVD?

What are people talking about when they discuss night vision optics? There’s a long history that it’s helpful to understand as you go about making a purchasing decision.

Night vision devices, or NVDs, were developed and deployed for military applications as early as World War II. The Germans put a portable unit in the field called the ZG 1229 Vampir, an active infrared device that was mounted on Sturmgewehr 44 rifles and powered by a backpack battery.

Of course, this type of technology was set to completely change warfare, as night fighting is normally a highly risky proposition without adequate intel and illumination. The U.S. developed “zero generation” active infrared devices in parallel with the Germans, and Sniperscope infrared devices also appeared on WWII battlefields on the Allied side.

Development continued through the Korean War and Vietnam, where first generation passive devices, which rely on ambient light instead of an infrared light source, were put into use for the first time. These offered around 1,000 times light amplification levels and had an effective range out to about 100 yards.

Second generation devices used an image intensifier tube with a microchannel plate, which greatly improved night vision performance to about 10,000 times ambient light levels, or out to about 200 yards.

The third generation saw even more technological improvements, resulting in higher image resolution and greater light magnification, anywhere from 30,000 to 50,000 times greater than ambient levels, offering an effective range of about 300 yards and beyond.

There’s a fourth generation of NVDs out there, sort of, though the U.S. Army went back on this classification after issues arose with the technology. But we don’t need to talk too much about this, except in terms of marketing, as the term does pop up around some devices. Suffice it to say, they aren’t necessarily superior.

I could go into the technical aspects of the technology, but for the average shooter, the result is the same: night vision optics were getting better, and were able to perform in much lower light, such as during a moonless night.

White phosphor technology, which produces a white-and-black, high-contrast image based on amplifying ambient light, is also becoming very popular.

However, for many hunters especially, infrared-sensitive optics are the best bet for hunting at night – where their use is legal, of course. Non-scope-mounted monocular units are also popular for finding game at night.

Why Thermal?

Generally, thermal imaging offers far superior capabilities in terms of detecting animals when compared to light amplification devices. Though the resolution isn’t generally as good, IR units are more than adequate for most applications, and when viewing game through an IR unit, they really stand out versus a light amplifying system.

Additionally, thermal imaging technology can be used in complete darkness, and can also be used during daylight for sighting in, whereas light amplification devices aren’t usable during the day and can be damaged if light sources are too bright.

Gen 2 and Gen 3 night vision devices are excellent, however, and can absolutely surpass thermal imaging devices in some applications, especially in terms of target identification and resolution. This is why you need to be very clear about your goals and intended use cases.

Because light amplification devices are highly versatile and offer greater resolution, they excel for navigational applications and in some tactical situations where higher resolution is paramount.

Keep in mind, however, that gen 2 and gen 3 devices will likely be extremely expensive. Most entry-level equipment is going to be gen 1. So we really can’t compare apples-to-apples in terms of image clarity unless we ignore price.

I know I keep saying this, but it’s really important: It really all comes down to your intended application. Instead of dwelling on all of the technical differences, let’s focus on what the average shooter needs to know.

Best Night Vision Scopes

Let’s start by examining a couple of mainstream night vision and infrared units and what you can get out of them to better understand the market.

You’ll likely not be running a goggle-based night vision system for hunting — though some hog hunters trying to clear overwhelmed farmland will run goggles with IR lasers for quick shots, to eradicate pest populations — and you probably won’t need multiple accessories you’d otherwise find useful for tactical applications.

There are a ton of options available in the marketplace, so let’s look at two to get a better idea of what you might want.

1. Firefield NVRS 3×42 Night Vision Riflescope

This gen-1 night vision scope is more of a budget option, but it gets the job done. It’s a little bulky, and it features 3 times magnification, but for less than $300 in most cases, this scope is a good bet for those looking to enter the world of night vision-assisted shooting.

The unit features a titanium body and is thus lightweight, and the unit also includes an IR illuminator built in (as an aside, be sure to check local laws when making purchasing decisions, because, in some states, infrared illumination isn’t allowed for taking game. In some cases, however, passive units that don’t feature IR illumination are allowed).

The Firefield has red crosshairs with adjustable brightness settings and features 20 hours of battery life when the IR is active, reaching 50 hours if IR mode is off. Otherwise, this is a simple unit that is reasonably easy to use but is very careful not to use this scope in daylight. The front lens cover has a pinhole sight you can use to zero your rifle in daylight, but it isn’t especially easy to use.

2. ATN Thor 4 384 2-8x Thermal Scope

While anything in the Thor line-up from ATN is going to be quality, the 2-8x magnification is a common sweet spot for hunting. However, you can get ATN thermal scopes ranging from 1.15x all the way to 40x.

Hunting at night has never been easier than with modern thermal scopes. The ability to clearly see and target game in near zero light is a powerful tool, but it doesn’t come cheap.

ATN has packed in a lot of goodies though, from computer-assisted one-shot-zero to a self-correcting BDC, plus being able to record in 60-fps!

You’ll also have lots of options in terms of sensor model and lenses.

3. ATN X-Sight II HD 3-14x

While the Firefield is a great way to get your toe wet in night vision, sometimes it really helps to get the next rung up from the budget option. In this case that means the ATN X-Sight II HD – and the extra cash really makes a difference.

Sporting a ballistic calculator, recoil activated video, night and day vision, E-barometer, gyroscope, and E-compass – this is the scope that coyotes should fear.

And it comes in at a very reasonable price point.

Best Tactical Night Vision

Tactical setups for night shooting run the gamut, and covering every possible setup for every use case is outside the scope of this article (pun intended).

That said, most shooters will either run a full night vision scope on their rifle, or use some sort of head-mounted goggle NVD system, along with a specialized setup on their rails, with a red dot sight, iron sights, an IR laser, and some combination of illumination options, either for redundancy’s sake, or just out of personal preference.

There are far too many potential options and combinations of equipment, but be aware that as you get deeper into setting up a gun for shooting at night, more advanced IR laser systems and sights can become expensive.

4. Sightmark Ghost Hunter 2×24 Night Vision Monocular

The Ghost is a gen 1 monocular night vision optic with a built-in IR illuminator. It features 2x magnification, automatic shut-off when ambient light is too intense, and polymer construction to keep it lightweight.

This is a small unit, and you can use it as a hand-held, mount it directly on a rifle (with a separate mounting bracket), or integrate it into a goggle system (sold separately, obviously). All are reasonable options, depending on your setup, but from a tactical perspective, I’d guess most would opt for a goggle mount. The Ghost Hunter absolutely would serve on a rifle, though.

At around $240, this isn’t the cheapest monocular night vision setup you can get, but it’s definitely within the ballpark for those seeking entry-level equipment, and it’s versatile to boot. You can spend much more on a gen 2 or 3 unit, but for shooting within closer ranges, the Ghost should suffice.

5. Primary Arms Advanced Micro Dot

This night vision-compatible red dot setup allows for versatility with an IR or night vision scope mounted inline. While this sort of system really isn’t optimal as the primary aiming system for a goggle-mounted night vision setup.

Because of the issues, you’ll have to try to navigate around and focus your optics at distance, all while trying to line up your red dot. In a tactical scenario, this is far from ideal.

That’s why most goggle-mounted night vision setups rely on IR lasers as their primary aiming system, with red dots and iron sights as backups. With that said, the Primary Arms’ red dot system absolutely can serve for various configurations.

It allows for precise zeroing and features over 50,000 hours of battery life on the medium intensity setting. Great for set-ups that you want to leave turned on even when they are stored away in your safe!

This red dot can provide accurate sighting in line with a night vision or IR scope, or act as a redundancy aiming system in conjunction with an IR laser aiming system. It’s built to be rugged, features a long battery life, and has most of the features for a variety of night shooting and tactical applications.

6. Steiner Offset Tactical Aiming Lasers-IR

Most goggle-mounted night vision systems are going to rely on IR lasers to reliably hit targets in the dark. It’s just not practical to try to line up red dots or iron sights down the length of a barrel with goggles strapped to your head.

Again, there are tons of IR laser units available, but the civilian market is generally restricted, both in the U.S. and abroad (so be sure you can legally acquire what you’re looking to purchase), and the units tend to be on the expensive side.

On the cheaper side of high-quality, low-power, civilian-legal IR lasers designed for use with rifles. This unit offers a low profile, light weight construction, and easy functionality for use with a night vision shooting system.

Note that a lot of users report preferring to run this laser with a remote switch to temporarily activate it when ready to shoot. Additionally, some prefer to run it alongside an IR illuminator to help reduce the blooming effect the laser gives off when it hits a target.

This blooming is unavoidable, as the laser light reflects back toward your optic when it hits something, but an IR illumination can help reduce the effect.

Daytime Optic Compatibility

Use caution when paring red dot systems with night vision scopes. Make sure you’re red dot system is compatible with night vision applications because if the red dot is too bright, it’s possible for it to damage your night vision optic.

Lower power settings are available for many red dot systems, but be sure to check with the manufacturer and know how to use your equipment before you make a costly mistake.

Night Vision Enthusiasm

There are a ton of reasons to be excited about night vision shooting setups. For anyone who hunts, the opportunity to track game at night, such as predators and pest species, is a game changer — where it’s legal to use these systems, of course.

For tactical enthusiasts or those interested in self-defense, the ability to safely engage targets at night is revolutionary. It takes some knowledge and understanding, but if you have the funds and the drive to learn, a night vision setup is within your reach!

Hunt with night vision or thermals? Run tactical ops with them? Let us know in the comments! And if you’re looking for some NVGs, take a look at our best Night Vision Googles article!

You might be wondering why we need different sizes in scopes. Does a slight 10mm difference between the two scopes matter?

That’s a good question.

You won’t see the difference if you just put a 40mm and 50mm scope side by side aside from the slight size contrast between the two.

Thus, I compared the 40mm vs 50mm scope to know which one is better for you!

40mm Scope Overview

When we talk about 40mm, it refers to the objective lens size of your scope.

This lens size can give you a smaller, lighter, and more compact scope tube diameter for your rifle.

I personally like using a 40mm scope because a light transmission at this scope size is already good, especially in brighter contact.

In fact, I can make its performance even better by adding a high-quality glass coating.

You can commonly see a scope with the 40mm objective with the following magnification ranges:

• 3-9x
• 9-25x
• 4.5-14x
• 4-12x

50mm Scope Overview

I used to think that a larger objective lens meant clearer and sharper target images.

However, even a smaller objective lens with better glass quality and coating can beat a bigger one!

So, having a bigger lens diameter does not necessarily mean an immediate edge.

A 50mm objective lens already lets me see a target BRIGHTLY in a low-light environment.

It also provides good and bright image quality even at a longer distance.

In my experience, a 50mm scope has helped me ACE every shot in all my different shooting activities.

Just like the 40mm, you must complement the advantage of a 50mm scope lens with a high-quality lens coating and glasses.

40mm vs. 50mm: What’s the Difference?

You will not know the difference between a 40mm vs. 50mm lens if you don’t look through the scope’s ocular glass lens.

I used to think bigger is always better regarding objective lenses.

But the comparison between the two revolves around which one can give my naked eye BETTER image quality.

Everyone views their optics differently, and it does NOT depend on the size alone.

The scope glass quality can also help provide better image sharpness and brightness, even if the scope size is smaller.

I’ll compare these scope sizes in different essential categories in the scope world.

Intended Use

The kind of shooting or hunting you will do is important!

For example, if you plan to hunt in the day when light won’t be a problem, a smaller objective lens will suffice.

On the other hand, low-light hunting situations require a larger objective lens to let enough light enter the scope.

WINNER: It depends.

Size

Obviously, 40mm is a smaller objective lens than 50mm.

Thus, it provides you with a lower mount profile for better and more comfortable aiming.

Meanwhile, the 50mm objective lens gathers MORE light and gives additional adjustment clicks for shooters.

However, eye alignment and aiming comfortability might be an ISSUE for some of them.

WINNER: 40mm

Weight Consideration

Since a 40mm objective lens is smaller, it is LIGHTER than a 50mm one.

It only adds a little to your rifle’s total weight.

I preferred moving around with the 40mm scope than the 50mm since I didn’t have to carry too much weight.

A wider objective lens like the 50mm gives EXTRA weight to your rifle scope. Thus, I would not recommend it in this situation.

WINNER: 40mm

Magnification Power

With high-quality glass and coating, a 50mm objective lens diameter can already give you a bright image.

A wide objective lens no longer requires much magnification.

This is especially when you need better sight at a distance in LOW LIGHT. Thus, having a 50mm objective lens is better for a long-range scope.

It is a different story for a 40mm scope lens.

You must mostly use magnification to get a better image quality, especially when aiming at darker times and locations.

WINNER: 50mm

Exit Pupil

A LARGER exit pupil size makes BRIGHTER images.

The exit pupil is the diameter of light that passes through the objective lens to your eyes. It is placed at the back of the eye relief, the closest to the human pupil.

Thus, a 50mm scope has a bigger objective lens, therefore, a bigger exit pupil size than the 40mm one.

You can have brighter images in this manner because MORE light transmission via a larger exit pupil size gets to your naked eye.

WINNER: 50mm

Resolution

Unlike the exit pupil, the resolution does not solely depend on the size of objective lenses.

A bigger objective size is useless if your scope has bad lens coating and glass quality.

The 50mm diameter lens for rifle scopes already provides a brighter image than the 40mm.

But, the latter can still offer a better-aiming image if it is higher in quality than the former.

WINNER: 50mm

Frequently Asked Questions

You may still be curious about this scope size comparison and other relevant information. Check out more details on some common questions below.

Is a 50mm Scope Better Than 40mm?

A 50mm scope for rifles is better than a 40mm one, but not in all contexts.

If both have similar accessories and parts, the 50mm rifle scope lens is surely better.

But, it is NOT ALWAYS the case if the 40mm objective lens has better accompaniments.

Regardless of size, your scope will reflect light and cause lens flare if it has a low coating and glass quality.

Thus, you should gather good parts for your scope and make it a COMPLETE PACKAGE.

It may cost more, but it is worth it!

What Scope Is Best for 50 Yards?

The 40mm diameter lens is better for close-distance shooting, like at 50 yards.

A 50 mm diameter lens is suitable for wider field shooting and has more features. However, it does not necessarily mean it is also good at any distance.

Short-range shooting requires smaller guns, and smaller lenses are more compatible.

The 40mm diameter lens is also light for fast movements, aiming, and shooting at a close distance.

Is a 3-9×40 Scope Good for Hunting?

Yes! I have a lot of scopes with this magnification and diameter, and my hunting is always efficient!

This scope model gives you a sense of versatility for short-range and longer-distance shooting.

It provides accurate short-range shots of small to medium-sized animals.

The same applies to lesser accuracy issues in longer-distance firing due to its high magnification range.

So yes, a 3-9×40 scope is GREAT for your hunting activities!

Final Verdict: Which Is Better to Use?

If you look at these categories, there is not much difference.

But in similar parts like the glass and coating quality, I have to give the win to the 50mm objective lens over the 40mm.

Thus, this gives you more choices in buying rifle scopes.

Do you want to choose a 40mm and add good rifle scope parts? You may want to maximize a 50mm diameter advantage with the best available parts.

Conclusion

You should not focus much on the bigger objective diameter size but on the other accessories in your rifle scope as well!

There are MORE factors to be considered, not just the lens size of rifle scopes.

A 50mm is greater than a 40mm as the former has more advantages.

Yet, gearing the latter with better parts like good lens coating and glass quality can still take the win.

In other words, you should gather the best parts to have the best rifle scope.

The U.S. Army is on the verge of updating its howitzer fleet to double the shooting range. The M109A7 Paladin and M777 howitzers are likely to see a serious increase in the distance at which they can support friendly forces while staying out of the range fans of Russian and Chinese-made artillery.

One part of this upgrade: a gun barrel nearly as long as a telephone pole.

A Work of Art(illery)

Field artillery is back in vogue. The U.S, has spent the past two decade in infantry-intensive wars in places like Iraq and Afghanistan, but the shift back to big-power potential warfare against enemies like Russia and China has turned attention back to the artillery branch. Howitzers and rocket launchers are the primary means of fire support for ground forces in conventional battle and can strike targets miles behind enemy lines.

The U.S. Army has some very good artillery weapons, including the M109A7 Paladin self-propelled howitzer (above) and the M777 towed howitzer. Long-distance shooting really isn’t their strong suit, though. Both guns can fire to a range of 14 miles with conventional shells and 18.6 miles with rocket-assisted shells, or RAPs, which give each shell some extra oomph but at a cost of less explosive filler and slightly less accuracy.

The problem is that Russian guns can shoot even farther. Russia’s older self-propelled howitzer, the Msta, can shoot to ranges of 24 miles while the new Koalitsiya howitzer has a range of 43 miles. That means that U.S. howitzers must operate within range of Russian guns, and the Koalitsiya could bombard U.S. artillery forces at maximum range without U.S. guns being able to shoot back.

Winning the Range Game

The Extended Range Cannon Artillery program is an attempt to buy more distance versus Russian artillery by improving existing American guns. In the short term, as Breaking Defense points out, that includes a new RAP round, the XM113, which will push existing guns to 24 miles. The XM113 will start hitting the field in 2 to 3 years. A combination of RAP shell, new propellants and a new, super-long howitzer barrel should push Army howitzers to 43 miles.

The new howitzer barrel, recently tested at Yuma Proving Ground and shown above, is 58 calibers long. In cannon and howitzer terminology, the caliber of the barrel is not the barrel diameter, but the length. In this case, the gun is 58 times the diameter of the barrel. To determine the length of a 155mm/58 caliber howitzer, multiply 155 by 58. That’s 8,990 millimeters long, or 29.49 feet. That’s six feet longer than the existing gun on the M109 howitzer.

Longer barrels allow the explosive gasses produced by burning propellant to act longer on the shell, so it gives the barrel at greater velocities. Greater velocity equals greater range. A short-barreled rifle, for example, will have a slower muzzle velocity and shorter range than a rifle with a longer barrel.

In addition to the ERCA upgrades, the Army could end up fielding the new Nammo ramjet artillery shell. Nammo, a Norwegian company and contractor in the XM113 program, claims its ramjet shell can reach ranges of 60 miles or more. Powered by a ramjet, the round uses the surrounding air as fuel, reducing the need for fuel on board the shell itself.

The Army’s new cannon tech should keep U.S. artillery competitive with Russian artillery, at least while the Army is busy buying a replacement for the M2 Bradley infantry fighting vehicle and M1 Abrams main battle tank. The long barrels make travel a bit awkward, especially through forests and urban areas, but the benefit to Army artillery will be significant and at minimal cost.

If a proven and dependable deer gun is on your wish list, than the Savage Model 11 might be exactly what you need in your arsenal. Thanks to Student of the Gun, I had the opportunity to get this rifle out on the range. While I’ll be giving you the full report of that range day a bit further down. Before that, I want to take a minute to educate you about the rifle first. One of the most important things you can do when purchasing a new rifle, is learn a bit about it.

Allow me to be your guide.

We’ll explore who Savage Arms is, for those of you who are new to this space. Then we’ll talk about the Savage Model 11’s features, and specifications. After that, we’ll get into the nitty gritty on how I feel it held up out at the range. There is also a video that Paul Markel put together on the exact rifle in this review for those of you who are visual learners. Buckle up, here we go.

Why Choose Savage Arms?

Savage Arms is a serious industry powerhouse in the firearms world. Founded in 1894, Arthur William Savage first set up shop in Utica, New York. Since then, Savage has been on the front-lines of firearms innovation building functional tools for shooters that need them. If you’ve been in the shooting world for a while, then they’re a name-brand that doesn’t need any special mentions. You know who they are, and that their rifles and shotguns are top-quality products.

If you’re new to the world of shooting, take my word for it. Savage Arms is a quality company based out of Westfield, Massachusetts. They know what they’re doing when they make a rifle or shotgun, and you can purchase their products in confidence. There’s a reason you will just about always find one of their products on the rack at your favorite local sporting good store.

Savage Arms products work, and they’re priced to sell.

Meet The Savage Model 11.

The Savage Model 11 rifle is for the hunter, by the hunter. It comes in a variety of calibers and packages ranging from .204 Ruger to 7mm Rem. Depending on what you intend to hunt, the Model 11 probably has a variant specifically for you. Depending on the version you get, there are a slew of features the rifle may or may not come with out of the box.

Any Savage Model 11 should have a three-position safety, and an AccuTrigger system that is fully adjustable by the end-user. The safety sits high on the tang of the rifle and is very easy to actuate, and the AccuTrigger system is fully adjustable with a kit that comes with the rifle out of the box. Also, it goes without saying, but the barrel is of a free-float design to maximize your accuracy.

Here’s a video by Paul Markel of Student of the Gun talking about the specific Savage Model 11 that we fired. And yes, we even fired the rifle from that exact same table at that exact same range. Our weather wasn’t quite as nice though.

Specifications.

Action: Bolt. Barrel Length (in)/(cm): 22 / 55.9. Barrel Material: Carbon Steel. Caliber: 260 REM. Magazine Capacity: 4. Hand: Right. Length of Pull (in)/(cm): 13.5 / 33.0. Magazine: Detachable Box Magazine. Overall Length (in)/(cm): 41.5 / 104.1. Rate of Twist (in): 1 in 8.

Range Day With The Savage Model 11.

If you watched the video above, then you’ve already seen the location where we did all of our shooting with the Model 11. For the purpose of this review, it’s worth noting that we shot in semi-inclement weather at about 7,000 feet above sea level. The location of our range was in Wyoming, and we shot out to about 500-yards. We used 120 grain Fusion .260 Remington, and we used Nikon glass that came with Paul’s Savage. (Ignore the Federal Premium box in the pictures, that was from another rifle we shot that day.)

Throughout the duration of our shoot, we encountered no major malfunctions or stoppages. We put about 100 rounds down-range at ranges from 100 to 500 yards. Our target was a steel hanger sized for the sweet spot on medium game. The AccuTrigger system was about a 4lb pull, and it had a nice crisp break that made following through on shots very satisfying and enjoyable. The bolt was also a smooth-pull, and functioned exactly as intended.

The specific Savage Model 11 that we shot was a pleasure to shoot, but there are two things that stood out. I’ll cover those in the section below.

Accurate and Lightweight.

With the Savage Model 11 in .260 there was two standout things I have to mention. One, I’m fairly certain that this rifle is more accurate than I am. Now, that’s the case with a lot of rifles out there, and it’s not because I’m a bad shooter. That said, the Model 11 made it very easy for me to find my limits at any range, and then it enabled me to push past them as a shooter. This is a good quality to search for in a rifle, and it’s one the Model 11 has.

Next, there’s the fact that this thing is lightweight. With the Nikon 3-9x BDC mounted, we come in with a total weight that is just over 9 pounds. Why does this matter? Well, for the experienced hunters out there, you already know. For the new hunter among us though, I’d like to bring up an old quote from one of my Gunnery Sergeants. Ounces equal pounds, and pounds equal pain. I’m pretty sure he stole that quote from someone, but he’s the guy I’ve stolen it from. In short, the less you’re hiking out into the woods, the farther you can get into those woods to find your prey.

All in all, the Savage Model 11 is a very lightweight rifle that will prove to be as accurate as you need it to be.

Is The Savage Model 11 Right For You This Deer Season?

If you’re an entry-level or even a slightly more experienced shooter looking for a rifle this deer season, the Savage Model 11 is perfect for you. If you’re looking to get a quality deer gun in a new caliber to supplement your arsenal without breaking the bank, the Savage Model 11 is also right for you. Basically, I would recommend the Savage Model 11 to anyone if they’re looking to get a solid rifle that will do work for them this upcoming season. It comes in a variety of different packages, so you can find exactly what you need and easily slot this into your rifle cabinet, and I am confident that it will work for years to come.

I’m just one shooter though. Together as a community, we have a collective shooting experience that can only be quantified using millenia. That’s not just me calling some of you old either, we got experience here on Full30. If we share it, we can help each other make good decisions at the gun counter. The Savage Model 11 is one of those rifles that many shooters have had time behind, and I would love to hear from you down in the comments. Tell us your experience with the Model 11, and if you have any questions that this review didn’t answer feel free to leave a comment. I try to respond to as many comments as I can.

Last Updated on October 20, 2022 by Evan

It is no secret that dogs are the most efficient trackers on the planet. They are very useful for hunts and save the hunters a lot of time and effort.

Here is our rundown of the best deer tracking dogs breeds:

Bloodhound

Bloodhounds are highly efficient trackers and are widely used by hunters to track deer. These scent hounds were originally bred for hunting large game-like deer and boars and are extremely persistent once they catch a scent.

They are also famous for effortlessly pursuing cold trails that other dogs aren’t able to track. This is why bloodhounds are also used by the police to track missing persons and fugitives.

The bloodhound is also the first animal whose evidence is considered legally legitimate in court. They also have a keen sense of hearing which helps them while tracking prey.

Even though they are quite relentless on a hunt, they make very loving and obedient companions to humans. They have a gentle nature and make good pets for families.

Beagle

Beagles are one of the most popular dog breeds as pets. They are also very intelligent and very useful on a hunt. Bred as hunting dogs, they have great tracking instincts and love working.

Beagles have a lot of energy and need adequate training to keep them occupied the right way. They love being stimulated and thus tend to make themselves very useful while hunting.

They have a very loud bark which comes in handy while chasing deer in thick forests. Beagles have short legs , but it does not deter them from chasing fast-moving prey like deer.

Their astute sense of smell has led to them being employed as detection dogs for agricultural imports all over the world.

German Shepherd

German Shepherds are fast, intelligent and highly trainable. Combined with their impressive tracking abilities, these skills make them very adept at tracking animals like deer and foxes.

With a high level of focus and a keen sense of smell, they make very efficient hunting dogs. Distractions do not bother them and they usually finish the job at hand even with difficult circumstances.

They are known all over the world for their vast capabilities. German Shepherds make up a significant population of K-9 units.

With a long history as working dogs, German Shepherds have proven themselves capable of all kinds of work including police work, bomb detection and disability assistance.

Scottish Deerhound

These scent hounds were specially bred for hunting deer. They have an impressive stature and are often mistaken for greyhounds.

Scottish deerhounds are very fast and are capable of chasing prey through rough terrain. This is because they are sighthounds, not scenthounds. They were used to hunt deer by coursing, a hunting method based on speed.

They have obedient personalities and are usually very eager to hunt. Their enthusiasm needs to be put to good use through training and outdoor activities. Deerhounds could turn destructive if they get bored.

Dachshund

Their looks can be deceiving but dachshunds actually make great hunting dogs. Though they were bred to track down and apprehend smaller prey like rabbits and badgers, they can flush deer out of forests or sniff out dead or injured deer.

Dachshunds have a long history as hunting dogs and the urge to track is quite innate in them. Despite their short stature, they have very good endurance. Their only flaw is perhaps their tendency to get distracted.

This problem can be tackled with a lot of dedicated training. Food is a huge motivator for dachshunds, so you might want to keep a lot of treats on hand while training this highly capable dog breed.

What they lack in size, they more than make up for with their impressive sense of smell. In fact, the part of the brain that is responsible for analyzing scents is 40 times bigger in dachshunds than humans.

Plott Hound

Plott hounds are native to North Carolina. They are also the official state dog and serve as K9 deputies in the sheriff’s department. Plott hounds are well built, strong and quite suited to hunt big game like deer.

They love a challenge and do not fear intense activities. Curious and athletic by nature, Plott hounds are widely used as hunting dogs all over the country.

With impressive speed and plenty of stamina, Plott hounds are relentless on the hunt and do not give up until the job is done.

Great Dane

Originating in Germany, Great Danes are one of the largest hunting dog breeds in the world. Deer hunters often use them for their speed and strength.

Their nature is completely opposite to their appearance—they are quite gentle and love company. Though they aren’t really known for their sense of smell, Great Danes are working dogs and have proven themselves useful to deer hunters.

Basset Hound

Basset Hounds are scent hounds bred for hunting small game. They have a very keen sense of smell and have an impressive running speed despite their short legs. They also have great stamina, which helps them on long hunts.

Basset Hounds are very fond of tracking and love hunting, making them enthusiastic partners to hunters. They have a playful temperament and make great pets for families with children.

They have a very independent nature which, while helpful in hunting, could be a problem while training. Owners need to spend a lot of time and energy to make sure their Basset Hounds are trained properly.

Black and Tan Coonhound

The Black and Tan Coonhound is native to America and was bred as a hunting dog. It has great tracking abilities and hunts entirely by scent. It is famous for its success with tracking down cold scents and is frequently used for search and rescue missions.

They are quite large and very efficient in hunting big game like deer. Despite their persistence and tenacity during a hunt, Black and Tan Coonhounds are quite calm and friendly indoors.

They are quite independent, making them efficient hunters. They need a lot of training as they can get a little stubborn, as is typical of hunting dogs.

English Springer Spaniel

English Springer Spaniels make great hunting companions. Though they were originally bred to flush prey out of hiding, they are effective at tracking bigger game-like deer or foxes.

Known as gun dogs, English Springer Spaniels would chase birds into flight, who would then be shot down by hunters. They also retrieved prey, making them very useful to hunters.

They are very enthusiastic and always eager to please, making them easy to train and work with. With amazing stamina, tracking and retrieving abilities, the Springer Spaniel is an amazing tracking dog.

Belgian Malinois

The Belgian Malinois resembles the German Shepherd in both stature and ability—it has a keen nose and is often used as a service dog by the police and the military.

They are very intelligent and extremely loyal to humans. Known for forming deep connections with humans, these dogs are highly trainable and love being engaged.

Their endurance level, strength, smartness and tracking capabilities make them efficient hunters. They have a lot of energy and do not give up the pursuit until they hunt down their prey.

German Shorthaired Pointer

German Shorthaired Pointers are favored due to their expertise in tracking both on land and water. Traditionally a breed hunting, they are quite cooperative and have a strong hunting drive.

They have a high energy level and excel at many activities, making them quite popular at dog sports. Apart from being used as hunting dogs and family pets, German Shorthaired Pointers are also used in search and rescue missions.

They have a playful nature and love being around humans and other animals. It might take a bit longer to train them since they don’t usually reach mental adulthood until they turn at least two years old.

Lake Trout Ice Fishing Tips and Tricks January 11, 2022 — Comments from resorts, outfitters and guests.

I used to fish for Lake Trout a lot more than I do these days. Not that I didn’t love it, I did, but since I became addicted to ice fishing for panfish, Laker’s sort of wound up on the back burner for me.

Lately though, not only readers, but some family members too, have been asking questions about how to get set up for ice fishing Lake Trout. Since it’s been a while for me, I decided that the best way to handle the questions by getting some tips from my friends who fish for Lake Trout a lot more than me. This way, I can do justice to their questions while I also use the project as a refresher course to help fill in gaps in my own knowledge.

I started by calling my friend Andy Arola (photo left), he’d just returned home from a successful ice fishing trip for Lakers. As it happens, he and his crew were fishing on Clearwater West, a lake that I’ve fished in the past too, it gave us some familiar experiences to compare.

Before we get into the “how-tos” of catching them, let me interject this; the obvious best way to catch Lake Trout is to select a lake that has a lot of them. However, traveling to the best of the best Lake Trout Lakes takes commitment. So, if you’re planning on dabbling, learning the ropes so-to-speak, it might be a good idea to check out some of the lakes in your own back yard first.

No matter where you live in the Midwest, you can find them close to home. Obviously, some lakes are better than others, it pays to do your research ahead of time and pick the one that you believe offers a reasonable opportunity for you and your circumstances.

Once you arrive at the lake, Arola offers this advice; “My best overall depth range averages about 35 to 45 feet deep, especially during morning and evening. Sometimes, during midday, I’ll move out deeper, but I rarely fish water depths over 70 feet deep.”

Structure is important but differs from the type of spots that walleye anglers might choose to fish. Mid-lake structures, bars and humps for example get little attention from Arola. Shoreline related rock points or sandy shoals get the most attention. Early and late in the day, stick tight to the structures closest to shore. During mid-day, loosen up the perimeter and experiment in deeper water.

Judging how long to fish in a spot is subjective, the rule of thumb is to make short moves first but expand the search area when necessary. Arola; “If I’m seeing lots of baitfish on the screen and there is an occasional Lake Trout sighted, I’ll stick close to the area. When I do move, it will be typically short distances, 100 to 200 yards. But if the screen is blank and there are no signs of bait or predators on the locator, we will make both longer and more frequent moves, sometimes a couple of miles between stops. When you land on the right area, you will see fish roaming in and out of range.”

The gear he uses daily is somewhat lighter than you might expect. A 34 inch, medium to medium-heavy action rod paired with 15-pound test braid is standard. A 6 foot long, 8-pound test fluorocarbon leader is used to help give his lures the most natural appearance. Arola; “I’m a big believer in using reels with smooth and reliable drags, they protect the lighter line from breaking when a larger or stronger fish makes an unexpected run.”

Arola does have one heavier action rod rigged up and uses it when larger fish are observed. The heavy artillery is a 36-inch, heavy action rod with 30-pound test braid and an 8 foot long, heavier fluorocarbon leader.

Arola’s views about fishing gear echoes the advice I got from Grant Prokop, 1000 Lakes Sports, earlier this winter when I was shopping for Christmas gifts. Prokop: “Getting set up with heavier rods and line is great for when you’re hooking up with big enough fish. But most of the time, anglers encounter fish that average smaller, 3 to 7 pounds or thereabouts. Stiff rods don’t offer enough give and take to prevent giving the fish slack line. A lighter action rod stays loaded up much better and makes losing those average size fish a lot less likely.”

Personally, I’ve never had an ice rod which was devoted to lake trout fishing. A medium-heavy action Ugly Stick, 30 inches long I think and rigged with 10 pound test has served as my pike-walleye-trout combo rod. Admittedly, if I ever hooked a really big lake trout, I’d probably lose it. But so far, I have never hooked one big enough to give me that problem.

Arola’s array of trout fishing lures is fairly simple. “My #1 favorite lake trout lure is a ½ ounce white bucktail jig, white, it has to be white!” Arola says. “Some of my friends like using the white tubes with a 3/8 or ½ ounce tube head stuffed inside them, but I like the action of the bucktails better.”

Arola suggests that we should also have one rod rigged up with a jigging spoon too. It should be flashy, but not too heavy. I asked if something like a ¼ ounce Quiver Spoon would be a good choice. “Yes, you want it to flutter down slower and give off lots of flash, that allows fish more time to find and strike it.” Arola added.

Finally, I asked for an opinion about the weather and which, if any weather patterns were more favorable than others for finding trout in an active mood. Truthfully, I was hoping that he’d validate my observation that showed a preference for cold, clear weather patterns. But Arola didn’t go that far, he said, “I don’t really think that matters, the weather pattern might influence where or how we fish, but we catch fish when it’s cloudy just as often as we do when it’s clear. I think we may fish shallower on a cloudy day or deeper when it’s clear, but that’s about the only real difference.”

If you never tried it, you should, it is a hoot. For me, catching them is fun, and I like to eat them too. But the real thrill is getting the strike, one second nothing is happening and the next, there’s somebody shouting fish on!

So, with the lake trout season upon us, getting rigged and ready doesn’t sound that complicated, does it? Maybe this is your year to give a try.

The American pump shotgun market is ruled by two guns, the Mossberg 500 and Remington 870.

These guns have been subject to at least as much debate as to the 9mm vs. 45 ACP or the Glock vs. 1911.

While they are very similar, they are also very different. Just saying Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 is a bit misleading. Both guns have dozens of variants.

These guns are not just a single line but a series of shotguns.

With Mossberg, we have the 500, the 535, the 590, the 590A1, the Shockwave, and so on.

With Remington, we have the Express, Wingmaster, Tactical, the TAC 14, the DM models, and more.

We are keeping this generalized to the specifics of these family of shotguns. When necessary I’ll mention exceptions within these families if rules are broken.

I want this to be a look at both the inside and outside of the guns and what’s important to shooters.

Both guns are similar, and they come in 12 gauge, 20 gauge, and 410. Both are pump-action shotguns, both are American made, and both can be used for home defense, hunting, and police and military use.

There are quite a few differences, though. That’s what we are going to explore today, the differences between these two guns.

The Controls

The most significant difference any shooter can easily pick up on is the difference between the safety locations on a Remington 870 and a Mossberg 500.

The Remington 870 uses a traditional push-button safety located on the trigger guard. Mossberg uses sliding safety located on the tang of the receiver.

The Remington 870’s safety is positioned behind the trigger and easy to reach.

It can be used with any stock system with ease. It is much more friendly with right-handers, but that being said, a left-handed friend of mine uses an 870 and destroys us at shooting clays.

The Mossberg 500 safety is completely ambidextrous but challenging to use on shotguns with pistol grips. This includes practical pistol grips that utilize stocks as well.

It takes a mighty reach upwards on Mossbergs with pistol grips

While the safeties are the easiest difference to spot, the other difference is the slide release. Both the Mossberg and Remington position the slide release on the left side of the trigger unit.

Remington places there forward of the trigger, and Mossberg positions theirs behind the trigger.

The Remington 870 suffers from the fact that you have to break your firing grip to reach forward and release the slide. The Mossberg 500 series can be activated without breaking the firing grip.

The Difference in Actions

One difference you can’t see, but you can feel is each gun’s actions. Both use twin steel action bars for increased durability.

You notice how handy those twin action bars are when you handle something like an old 1897 and feel how fragile a single action bar is.

The Remington 870 uses a robust, one-piece design that combines the action bars and pump. The Mossberg 500 series uses two pinned action bars that are anchored to a separate slide assembly.

The end result is the Mossberg pumps tend to feel sloppy, and they move around quite a bit. You can feel the slop in your hands as you pump the weapon.

The Remington 870 tends to be tighter and smoother. It gives an overall higher quality experience. If you want to tune a gun up, get a Remington, and you’ll be shocked at how smooth a competent smith can get a Remy action.

The 500 series does make it easier to replace and repair the action. Should a bar get bent, it’s easy to unpin the bar and remove and replace it. If a Remington 870 bar gets bent, it can be challenging to pull out the entire system and replace it.

Material Differences

One of the most significant differences you can’t see is what material makes up your shotgun’s receiver.

Don’t feel bad.

Most people can’t look at a metal and tell you what it is.

This material difference is one of the biggest differences you’ll likely never notice.

The Remington 870s use good ole ‘fashion American steel. Well, I don’t know if it’s American, but it is steel. This gives the 870s a more substantial receiver overall.

The Mossberg 500 series uses aluminum receivers. While steel is stronger, there is likely never going to be a time you can break a Mossberg 500’s aluminum receiver. While the difference exists between the materials, there is no practical advantage to using steel over aluminum.

AR-15s are made from aluminum, and we trust it’ll work.

The most significant practical difference is the weight of the guns. Remingtons, on average, tend to be heavier guns by anywhere from a pound to half a pound when like vs. like is compared.

More weight isn’t exactly a good or bad thing, it’s just different. Stalking deer? Lightweight is nicer. Skeet shooting? Heavier makes for a smoother swing.

Magazine Tubes

Another somewhat hidden, but often desirable feature for shotguns is extending the magazine capacity. Shotguns are typically restricted to a relatively low ammunition capacity. The ability to add a few extra shots can be highly desirable.

With the Mossberg 500, it’s complicated. Adding more capacity is difficult because of the magazine and barrel design. To do so, you need a new barrel and matching tube to do so.

You can’t just screw on an extension and go for it. The barrel attaches directly to the magazine tube and not around it. The Mossberg 590 series corrects this and allows you to connect a magazine extension directly to the tube.

The Remington 870 is traditionally a simpler weapon to utilize when it comes to adding an extension. Remove the magazine cap and then screw on the extension.

Well, that was the old days. Now on a lot of models, they are dimpling the magazine tube.

This makes it impossible for the spring and for rounds to travel into an extension. It’s likely the tactical models don’t have this dimpled magazine tube, but a lot of the non-tactical models will.

The only solution is too remove the dimples yourself via power tools or pay a gunsmith to do it.

You can’t swap the magazine tube for another without a dimple because Remington solders the magazine tubes in place.

These soldered tubes can be a major hassle if you damage the tube and need to replace it.

With Mossberg designs, you simply have to heat up the Loctite and unscrew the magazine tube.

Extractors / Ejector

Improper extraction and ejection are likely the most common cause of firearm’s malfunction outside of ammo related issues. Needless to say, it’s an important function. Shotguns deal with an odd round when you think about it.

It’s a bulky hybrid of plastic and brass that’s often cumbersome, comes in various lengths, and can be all sorts of different weight and projectile types. Being able to extract and eject any and all shells are essential.

Remington uses a single extractor that grips the rim of the shells and rips them outwards.

Mossberg uses two extractors to help guarantee reliability. The dual extractors are great because if one breaks, the other will still work, and you can run the gun until you can repair it.

I’ve fired a lot of rounds from shotguns, especially 870s and 500s, and I’ve never had a single extractor break, but redundancy is often an effective safety measure.

The good news is both can be replaced at home with both guns.

Each gun’s ejector is a different story. Mossberg continues its tradition of being user accessible with an ejector that screws in. Remington continues to be the iPhone of shotguns with a riveted ejector making it challenging to replace.

I stripped a Mossberg 590 receiver for a friend, and it took a little heat gun action and a flat head screwdriver to remove the ejector. I wouldn’t know where to start with an 870.

The Shell Lifters

The shell lifters aren’t exactly something you think about when you first handle a shotgun.

Once you start loading and shooting a lot, and primarily when you shoot Mossberg 500s and 870s a lot, you notice that the Mossberg is more comfortable to load.

The Mossberg uses a patented shell lifter that is both skeletonized and in the always up position.

The Remington uses a standard shell lifter that stays down and acts as a gate to the gun. It’s a solid slab of metal that sits below the bolt and action. To load a shell, you press the shell lifter up and slide it into the tube.

The shell lifter can slow you down, and when you are going fast, it likes to pinch you.

The Mossberg skeletonized and always up shell lifter is out of the way, and you can smoothly load one or two shells with little effort.

The skeletonized lifter also allows you to fix malfunctions easier. You can reach through the bottom of the gun, and this can help you free a stuck shell.

The Small Things

Here are a few small things you may want to consider when purchasing either gun. These didn’t fit into any other category and are not significant enough to warrant their own category. So let’s not forget about the small things.

Adding an Optic

The Mossberg 500 series are all tapped and ready to add a scope rail and an optic. The Remington 870 is not universally tapped, which means a trip to the gun smith, or a Burris Speedbead system needs to be installed.

Check out more in our Best Shotgun Sights article.

Mini Shells

Mini shells are tons of fun! They are low recoil, easy to shoot, and decently affordable.

Both guns can fire them, but the Mossberg 500 series can be fitted with an adapter from Opsol.

This mini clip allows the mini shells to feed 100% of the time. The 870 cannot be fitted with this adapter.

Barrel Thickness

The Remington 870 has a thicker barrel than a standard 500. It’s equivalent to a Mossberg 590. You can buy the upgraded Mossberg to get the thicker, stronger barrel.

Price

The Mossberg 500 tends to be cheaper, but the Remington 870 is only a hair more expensive. It’s also fitted with a steel receiver and a thicker barrel. The 590 series are more expensive than the 870 Express models, as well.

A US Army Testing Procedure

The US Army has a testing procedure called the MIL-SPEC 3443 test, which is a brutal 3K round test that pushes shotguns to the edge.

The Mossberg series has been the only shotgun to pass this rigorous test.

Here’s us with our 590A1 and some Winchester 00 buckshot…

The requirement calls for a metal trigger group, so only the 590A1 and 500 MILS qualify to fit the criteria.

Customizability

If you want to customize your gun, you can go with either model and be quite successful with that goal. There are crazy amounts of parts out there for both weapons.

You can do almost anything.

You can swap stocks, pumps, add sights, side saddles, and more to each gun. You can do a ton with either, and it’s hard to say which is better overall.

Both guns are straightforward to customize, and you have plenty of options to do so.

Of course, we have articles to help you with both!

• Best Remington 870 Upgrades
• Best Mossberg 500 & 590 Upgrades

Which One is For You?

That’s a good question.

My chosen home defense shotgun is the Mossberg 590, but my favorite shotgun ever is my antique Ohio National Guard Remington 870.

Both guns have their favorites, and I will say Remington guns have been rough since 2007.

Once Freedom Group took over, quality went downhill noticeably.

However, they seem to have turned that around!

A lot of their new guns are looking, feeling, and shooting much better these days.

If you are having trouble deciding, let’s examine a few considerations.

• If you want a gun, you can service and fix yourself, choose the Mossberg 500 series.

• If you want a gun that uses a pistol grip with stock, then choose the Remington 870.

• If you want a gun that you can abuse and not spend a ton of money on buy a basic Mossberg 500.
• If you want a gun, you can beat up and likely pass on down to your kids, buy an OLDER Remington 870.
• If you’re left-handed, go with a Mossberg.
• If you want a gun that’s tight, smooth, and feels ultra-lux, go with the Remington 870 Wingmaster.

• If you want what the military uses, go with the Mossberg 590A1.

And if you want even more options, we also have a video on the Best Pump Action Shotguns for Beginners.

Conclusion

Both the Remington & Mossberg are super popular and reliable pump action shotguns. Mossberg has the ambidextrous safety, double-extractor, nicer shell lifter, tons of upgrades, and is used by the military. While Remington has the smoother action, steel receiver, and better pistol grip setup.

The right one for you is a personal choice, but now you have the tools to make that choice.

My big question to you is, which one is for you, and why? Let us know in the comments! Don’t forget to get some feed for your new shotty, take a look at The Best Shotgun Ammo: Home Defense & Target Shooting! Or if you want to upgrade it…Best Home Defense Shotgun Upgrades.