Best Air Rifle Reviews & Buying Guides - Air Gun Maniac

Choosing the right red dot sight for Glock 43X MOS can greatly enhance your shooting accuracy and speed. Here are some steps to help you choose the best red dot sight for your Glock 43X MOS referenced from Weaponspecialist.org:

How To Choose The Right Red Dot Sight For Glock 43x

Check Compatibility

Ensure that the red dot sight you’re considering is compatible with the Glock 43X MOS. The MOS system has a specific mounting platform for optics.

Some red dot sights may require adapter plates, so make sure you have the correct plate for your sight or that it comes with the sight.

Determine Your Budget

Red dot sights vary significantly in price, so establish a budget before you start shopping. While quality can often correlate with price, there are excellent options available at various price points.

Consider Reticle Type

Red dot sights come with different types of reticles, such as the standard dot, circle-dot, or crosshair. Choose a reticle that you find easy to acquire and use effectively.

Reticle Size

Smaller reticles are generally better for precision shooting, while larger ones can be faster to acquire. Consider your intended use when selecting the reticle size.

Battery Life

Check the battery life of the red dot sight. Longer battery life is generally more convenient, as you won’t need to replace the battery as frequently.

Some sights have solar panels or motion-activated features to extend battery life.

Durability

Ensure that the red dot sight is built to withstand recoil and harsh conditions. Look for sights with durable construction and waterproof, fog-proof, and shockproof features.

Mounting Height

Consider the height of the red dot sight and how it aligns with your iron sights. Some sights may require suppressor-height sights or specific co-witnessing setups.

Size and Weight

The size and weight of the red dot sight can affect the balance and handling of your Glock 43X MOS. Opt for a sight that complements the pistol’s size and weight.

Brand Reputation

Research the reputation of the manufacturer. Well-established brands are more likely to produce reliable and high-quality red dot sights.

Read Reviews

Read reviews from other Glock 43X MOS owners and shooters who have experience with the red dot sight you’re interested in. This can provide valuable insights into its performance and reliability.

Try Before You Buy

If possible, visit a local gun store or shooting range that offers red dot sights for testing. This will allow you to get a feel for different models and determine which one works best for you.

Warranty and Customer Support

Consider the warranty and customer support offered by the manufacturer. A good warranty can provide peace of mind in case of any issues.

Top 5 Red Dot For Glock 43x Mos

1. Trijicon RMR (Ruggedized Miniature Reflex): This is an extremely popular choice for many firearms, including the Glock series. It’s known for its durability, clarity, and battery life.

2. Holosun HS507C-X2: The Holosun HS507C-X2 is a versatile and sturdy red dot sight. It offers multiple reticle options and boasts an impressive battery life. It also has a solar fail-safe system to keep it powered in all conditions.

3. Leupold DeltaPoint Pro: This sight is designed with a large field of view and is built for speed. It is also known for its robustness and reliability.

4. Vortex Venom: The Vortex Venom is a high-performance, yet reasonably priced, red dot sight. It has a 3 MOA dot reticle, easy-to-use controls, and a top-load system for changing batteries without having to remove the sight.

5. Aimpoint ACRO P-1: The Aimpoint ACRO (Advanced Combat Reflex Optic) is a compact, enclosed system that is designed to withstand the harshest conditions. Although larger than some options, it’s incredibly durable and reliable.

Ultimately, the right red dot sight for your Glock 43X MOS will depend on your personal preferences, shooting style, and intended use. Take your time to research and choose a sight that suits your needs and enhances your shooting experience.

Written by: Cecil B. DeMille – Weapon Specialist

Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ

Filleting fish is a delicate process, and having the right knife makes all the difference. If you have ever experienced a dull fillet knife, you know how frustrating it can be. Not only does it make the filleting process take longer, but it can also be dangerous.

A sharp fillet knife will easily glide through the fish, making for a much safer and quicker experience. Picking the best fillet knife for saltwater fish is critical. Use this guide to sift through the noise and pick one that will last you a long time!

7 Best Fillet Knife for Saltwater Fish Reviewed

• Gerber Controller
• KastKing Fillet Knife
• Rapala Saltwater Fillet Knife
• Rapala Lithium Ion Cordless Fillet Knife Combo
• Morakniv Fishing Comfort Fillet Knife
• Dexter P94812 Fillet Knife
• Bubba Blade

1. Gerber Controller

Key Features:

• Finger choil
• Lanyard hole
• Sheath system with built-in sharpener, pocket, vents, and clip
• Corrosion-resistant blade
• Hydro Tread grip
• A glass-reinforced polypropylene handle
• Optimize to withstand harsh conditions

The Gerber is a newer knife on the market, and they’ve done their homework when it comes to the design. They reached out to anglers from all over to get their input on what they’d want in a fillet knife and sheath and implemented those recommendations.

The first thing they did was pick a corrosion-resistant yet sturdy steel that would hold an edge in a saltwater environment. They went with a 9Cr stainless steel that allows for flex to get every piece of meat off the fish while staying sharp.

The next best thing they did was design a grip that gives you plenty of force to cut the fish without slipping. The over-molded grip around the knife’s full tang and the different rubber pieces maximize your grip. Couple that with a hard yet easy-to-clean fishing fillet knife sheath, and you’ve got a winner.

2. KastKing Fillet Knife

Key Features:

• A protective knife sheath
• Non-slip super polymer grip
• Razor-sharp stainless blade
• It is thicker and stiffer than others

The KastKing Fillet Knife is a great option for those looking for a quality fillet knife that won’t break the bank. This knife features a razor-sharp stainless-steel blade thicker and stiffer than other knives in its class, making it ideal for larger fish.

The non-slip super polymer grip ensures that your hand won’t slip when wet, and the protective knife sheath ensures that your knife stays sharp and ready for use. Its bright color makes it easy to spot in the boat or tackle box.

3. Rapala Saltwater Fillet Knife

Key Features:

• Super sharp stainless blade
• Flexible tip
• Easy clean sheath
• It has a comfortable grip

If you are looking for a knife to fillet saltwater fish, then the Rapala Saltwater Fillet Knife is a great option. The blade is made from super sharp stainless steel and has a flexible tip that makes it easy to maneuver.

The knife also has an easy clean sheath to keep it in top condition. The comfortable grip ensures that you can use the knife with ease.

4. Rapala Lithium Ion Cordless Fillet Knife Combo

Key Features:

• Extra length to limit wrist and hand fatigue
• Laminated and polished for a sanitary build
• Incredibly razor-sharp
• Outstanding craftsmanship
• Expertly handcrafted to handle both small and large animals

The DALSTRONG fillet knife is one of the top-rated filleting knives on Amazon for a reason. It’s a great all-around knife that will tackle any fish you put in front of it.

This knife has a blade that’s 6 inches long and extra thin to make slicing through fish a breeze. The blade is also laminated and polished for a sanitary build that resists rust and corrosion.

The handle on this knife is slip-resistant and comfortable to grip, even when your hands are wet. Plus, the knife’s extra length will help limit wrist and hand fatigue.

Also, check out our guide on some of the Top Electric Fish Fillet Knives.

5. Morakniv Fishing Comfort Fillet Knife

Key Features:

• Excellent corrosion resistance
• Exceptional toughness
• High friction handle
• Easy to clean
• Available in 3.5 and 6.1 inch

If you’re looking for a beautiful stainless-steel blade that comes in both 3.5 and 6.1 inches in length, you should consider the Morakniv Fishing Comfort Fillet Knife.

They use a 12C27 stainless steel blade which comes razor sharp, holds an edge, and fights against saltwater corrosion. We like the TPE rubber soft grip, which keeps the blade firmly in your hand and prevents dangerous slipping.

Even though this knife holds an edge, it doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be sharpened if you’re going through multiple fish in a row. Depending on the fish you’re cutting, the blade will benefit from a quick tune-up.

6. Dexter P94812 Fillet Knife

Key Features:

• High carbon steel blade
• Durable and slip-resistant polypropylene handles
• High quality
• Hollow-ground blades

Dexter has been making a stainless-steel fish filleting knife that everyone, from anglers to chefs, has been using for a long time. We first heard about Dexter from Anthony Bourdain, who said he used them in his kitchen to fillet fish before cooking them for his guests.

We’ve cut a bunch of fish with this knife without sharpening it often. It’s nice to have a knife that can hold an edge for a long time. The handle is barebones textured plastic, and it doesn’t come with a sheath like some of those more expensive fillet knives.

Its durability and simple design make the Dexter P94812 one of the best fillet knives for the money.

7. Bubba Blade

Key Features:

• Non-slip grip handle
• Durable
• Rust resistant
• An extra sharp tip
• Sheath with a belt loop
• Reliable

Bubba Blade has been making high-end fillet knives for some time. The distinct red handle and the titanium-nitride-coated black blade are a staple in the fishing community. You’ll need to consider this one if you’ve got some money to leverage and want a bold fishing filleting knife.

The soft grip is also non-slip, and you have a place to attach a lanyard so that you don’t lose this knife overboard. We like the trigger grip, which makes it easy to maneuver the blade to wherever you need it. The full tang design and the high carbon stainless steel blade mean it’ll last you a long time.

Everything You Should Consider Before Buying a Saltwater Fillet Knife

A quality fillet knife is a necessity for anyone who regularly cooks fish, whether they get their catch from fresh or salt water. While many types and brands of fillet knives are on the market, some considerations should be made before purchasing one to ensure it will suit your individual needs.

The following guide outlines everything you should think about before buying a saltwater fillet knife, from the blade material to the handle style.

Saltwater Fillet Knife Features

A fillet knife is part of the boning knife family and is used to make quick work of removing meat from the skeleton of a fish and the skin from the meat.

Blade Material

One of the most important things to consider when choosing a fillet knife is the blade type. The two most common materials used for fillet knife blades are stainless steel and high-carbon steel.

Stainless steel is less likely to rust than high-carbon steel, making it a good choice for those who do a lot of saltwater fishing. However, it is also more difficult to sharpen and not as strong as high-carbon steel.

High-carbon steel fillet knives are sharper and easier to sharpen than their stainless-steel counterparts, but they are also more susceptible to rusting. If you opt for a high-carbon steel knife, keep it well-oiled and clean it thoroughly after each use.

Handle Style

If you’re doing a lot of filleting, it’s essential to choose a knife with a comfortable handle. Some of fillet knives’ most popular handle styles are rubber, wood, and plastic.

Rubber handles are slip-resistant, making them a good choice for those with sweaty hands or using the knife in wet conditions. Wood handles look nicer than plastic or rubber but can become slippery when wet.

Plastic handles are lightweight and inexpensive but not as durable as rubber or wood. Also, there are two types of handles the trigger grip and the standard grip.

The trigger grip is easier to maneuver the blade with because you can place your index finger on the trigger. The standard grip is the more traditional way to hold a fillet knife.

Blade Length

You also need to consider the length of the blade when choosing a fillet knife. A longer blade will give you more leverage, making it easier to fillet larger fish. However, a shorter blade is much easier to control, making it a better choice for smaller fish or those with less experience filleting.

The thickness of the blade is also something to take into account. A thinner blade will flex more, making it easier to maneuver around the bones of a fish. However, a thicker blade will be more durable and less likely to break.

Flexibility

When you’re looking at fillet knives, you’ll notice that some are more flexible than others. A more flexible blade is better for filleting smaller fish because it can easily contort to fit around the bones. A less flexible blade is better for larger fish, as it will be less likely to bend under pressure.

Sheath

A sheath is not strictly necessary, but it is a good way to protect your knife and keep it from rusting when not in use.

Fillet knives with sheaths often have a belt loop, making them easy to carry with you when you’re out on the water. If you opt for a knife without a sheath, keep it oiled and stored in a dry place when not in use.

How to Maintain Your Fillet Knife

Once you’ve found the perfect fillet knife, it’s essential to take care of it to last for years to come. Here are a few tips on how to maintain your fillet knife:

• Clean the knife after each use. Saltwater is incredibly corrosive, so be sure to rinse the knife off in fresh water and dry it thoroughly after each use.
• Apply a light coat of oil to the blade after each cleaning. This will help to prevent rust and keep the blade in good condition.
• If the knife becomes rusty, you can remove the rust by scrubbing it with a stiff brush and some white vinegar.
• If you have a high-end knife, check if it’s dishwasher safe. Some of the more advanced grips can’t handle the dishwasher’s abuse.
• Keep your harsh detergents away from your knife. Follow your manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Sharpen your knife often with a quality sharpener or block. A sharp knife is a safe knife.
• Keep your cutting surface soft. Don’t cut on marble countertops or items that could dull or chip your blade edge.

Frequently Asked Questions

Insider Advice

Saltwater fillet knives are a great investment for any fisherman or woman. They provide the perfect tool for filleting your catch and, with proper care, will last for many years.

Be sure to consider the factors we’ve discussed before making your purchase, and you’ll be sure to find the perfect knife for your needs.

Red dot sights are commonly used on pistols, but what about air rifles? Are they just as effective? Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of red dot sights on air rifles to see if they’re worth the investment.

Pros of Red Dot Sights:

• Huge range- Red dot sights have a much larger range than traditional iron sights, making them ideal for long-range shooting.
• Fast and straight- Red dot sights are incredibly fast and straight, meaning you can get on target quickly and accurately.
• Easy to spot- The red dot is easy to spot, even in low light conditions. This makes it easier to keep your eye on the target.

Cons of Red Dot Sights:

• The Picatinny mounting rails obviously won’t fit standard scope grooves, so most airgunners will need to buy mounting adaptors. These aren’t expensive, but they’re an on-cost which needs to be considered.
• Red dot sights can be susceptible to damage from impact or vibrations. This means they might not be ideal for some types of air rifles such as break barrels.

Conclusion

Red dot sights have a lot of advantages, but there are also a few things to keep in mind before you purchase one. They’re more expensive than traditional iron sights, but they offer a much larger range and are faster and easier to use. However, they may not suitable for break barrel air rifles.

The giant bull dolphin struck the skirted ballyhoo rig with a vengeance, catching the fishermen by surprise. They were already locked in battle with two other large dolphins. Half an hour later, the big bull lay on the bloody deck of Salty Intentions, a 25-foot Contender owned and captained by Michael Bell. His friend James Roberts caught the fish using a Star Rods Aerial Stand-Up Rod paired with a Penn Squall 16VS reel.

Angler James Roberts (L) and Michael Cahoon (R) with new Georgia state record Mahi-Mahi.

Bell and Roberts had been fishing with Michael Cahoon, Shaun Bragg and James Bashlor approximately 90 miles off the Georgia coast when they landed the prize mahi-mahi on April 26. The Georgia DNR officially certified the fish to weigh 68-pounds, 1.6-ounces—a new state record.

Mahi-mahi, also known as dolphinfish, dolphin and dorado, typically range from 10 pounds to 30 pounds when boated. The world record mahi-mahi, caught off the coast of Costa Rica in 1976, tipped the scales at 87 pounds. The previous Georgia state record for mahi-mahi was 67-pounds, 9.6-ounces, caught by fisherman Will Owens in 2019.

Run to the Gulf Stream

St. Catherines Sound is located on Midway River, between St. Catherines Island and Ossabow Island, approximately 28 miles south of Savannah, Georgia. For more than 20 years, Captain Michael Bell has been making the 80-plus-mile trip from the sound to the Gulf Stream, where he chases tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi and other bluewater gamefish.

The long distance requires an extra early start, so on April 26, the group of anglers met at Captain Bell’s house at 2:00 am. They left the Georgia DNR Demere Creek Ramp onboard Salty Intentions around 3:30 am, heading east toward the Triple Ledge in the darkness.

“We’ll go to the Triple Ledge and try to catch a wahoo and a blackfin tuna to start out. They normally hang out on that ledge, so we’ll put out some wahoo and tuna gear,” Bell says.

Trolling Triple Ledge

Breezy conditions that day limited the Contender, which is powered by twin 200-hp Yamaha outboard motors, to a top speed of 30 miles per hour. The sun had just started to rise when the group reached the Triple Ledge. They began trolling along the structure and soon caught a pair of amberjacks down deep using a planer. After catching a few mahi near the ledge, they decided to run further offshore. Captain Bell scanned the horizon, looking for a temperature break, weed line, feeding birds—anything that would hold fish or indicate feeding fish.

At around 400-feet deep, the fishermen crossed a long weed line that a couple of boats were already working. After scanning the area, they continued on until they reached a depth of 1,800 feet. Despite a thorough search, they couldn’t find any fish, so Bell decided to head toward the Deli Ledge. On the way, they again crossed a weed line in about 400- to 450-feet of water, approximately 85 to 90 miles offshore.

“I’m assuming it was the same rip that I had seen south of there, so we stopped on that rip and then we set out a spread,” Bell recalls. “We didn’t do anything for the first few minutes, and then the next thing you know, the bite was on.”

The Salty Intentions crew had found a Mahi motherlode.

Fish box aboard Salty Intentions filled with the days catch, including the new state record dolphin fish.

“They just started tearing it up. I had a Squid Nation bucket dredge out and it got to where we were catching so many fish that I couldn’t even run it, so I put that in the boat,” Bell says. “We started tearing the dolphin up. We caught dolphin nonstop, all day. We loaded the boat with dolphin.”

Monster Mahi-Mahi

Shortly after 2:30 that afternoon, a double-header of dolphin hit the starboard long and short riggers. Bell slowed the boat in order to manage the spread while they fought the two fish. On the opposite side of the boat, James Roberts grabbed a rod and began to reel in line in order to free up room for the other anglers. That’s when a large bull dolphin hit the skirted ballyhoo—and then dropped it.

“When I picked the rod up, I snatched it out of the outrigger. It fell back probably two seconds before the boat’s momentum caught up with that lure and started snatching it again. That activated that fish. I don’t know where he came from—but he came from hell, buddy. He came out of the water and knocked the bait out of the water twice,” Roberts says. “Each time he’s doing it, Captain Bell kept hollering, “Drop it back! Drop it back!” I would hit the free spool, drop 30 to 50 feet back, lock it back down and it snatched it again.”

Similar to sailfish and other gamefish, mahi-mahi will often initially strike a bait and drop it. They will then circle back and, if the bait appears to be dead, proceed to try to eat it.

Captain. Michael Bell with state record fish.

“The fish hit it, struck out and commenced to peeling drag,” Bell remembers. “At this point, we got a triple hookup. We’ve got two mid-20s dolphins on the right side of the boat and him on the left side of the boat and it’s burning out. I see the fish charging away and it was a huge bull dolphin. I had no earthly clue that it was that big. I just knew it was a nice one. I’m thinking an upper 40s fish, just a really nice bull dolphin.”

As Roberts continued to fight the monster Mahi, the rest of the crew cleared the remaining empty rods and finally landed the other two fish. Everyone then focused on the Mahi that Roberts was tangling with.

“We reeled him in and he burned the drag out. We finally got him in sight. We got off the braid and onto the mono. I usually run about 60 yards of mono on there,” Bell said. “You could see him out there. He was like a giant planer board. You couldn’t make up ground with him when he turned sideways in that current, so I had to start easing in his direction and we’d reel up to him.”

Bell handed the wheel over to James Bashlor, another seasoned fishing boat captain who was fishing onboard Salty Intentions that day. Bell then grabbed a gaff and continued to coach Roberts who had been fighting the big fish for nearly 30 minutes.

“It was straight battle. It wasn’t no playing alongside the boat. His ass was back there tailing and walking and hauling ass,” Roberts says. “He kept taking line. I just kept fighting him back in until he finally wore out.”

Captain Bell gaffed the mahi, but the tip of the gaff accidentally lodged in the boat’s rub rail, leaving the fish hanging precariously over the water. Roberts grabbed a second gaff and hooked the fish in the tail. At the same time, Bell finally cleared the boat’s rub rail with his gaff and slung the mahi into the boat. That’s when the fishermen realized that they possibly had a record mahi on their hands. They stowed their gear and Bell set a course for St. Catherines Sound sea buoy, which was 94 miles away at that point.

“It was literally the best fishing trip I think anybody on that boat had ever had in their life,” Bell says. “We caught 44 dolphin that day, and we had some monsters. We had that state record, but we had several fish in the 40s and a ton of fish in the 30s. It was epic. We had five 60-quart coolers full of fillets.”

After returning to shore, the fishermen had the mahi officially weighed at the Georgia DNR Richmond Hill Fish Hatchery. Although James Roberts will go into the record book, he credits everyone on board for making the catch possible, especially Captain Michael Bell.

“I attribute this entire day to Captain Bell and his crew because he’s got his shit together. He knows what he’s doing. I’ve been fishing offshore off and on for over 20 years, and I’ve never had the pleasure of fishing with people as good as Captain Bell,” Roberts says. “We caught 44 fish that day. Ninety percent of the dolphin we caught tail-walked across the water, so it was a thrill all day long.”

Star Rods Continues to Set Records

Michael Bell began using Star Rods exclusively onboard Salty Intentions after fishing with the rods on James Bashlor’s boat.

“Honestly, I love them. They’re a fantastic rod for the money in comparison to other rods,” Bell says. “My rods are three years old now and I haven’t missed a beat with them. I troll the Gulf Stream with them. I also bottom fish with them. I’ve caught a truckload of fish on those rods—big sharks. I got videos and pictures of 200- to 300-pound sharks that we caught while we were bottom fishing with those rods. Not to mention huge red snapper, grouper and 30- to 40-plus pound amberjacks. I mean I’ve worked them.”

Both Bell and Roberts are quick to praise the Star Rods Aerial Stand-Up Rod that landed the new Georgia state-record mahi. The six-foot Star Rods EX1530C6 features a medium action and a line rating of 15-30 lbs.

“It didn’t let me down at all. That’s all that he’s got on his boat is Star Stand-Up with Penn 16VS’s and I was impressed,” Roberts says. “I had no problem at all fighting that fish. I believe that rod could have handled something twice that size.”

Learn more about Star Rods and find an Official Star Rods Dealer at StarFishingTackle.com

Chene Gear is a young waterfowling gear company out of Memphis, Tennessee, that began with waders: the base of every hardcore waterfowler’s gear list. This summer, the company is celebrating its one-year anniversary.

As part of that celebration, Chene launched a new collection of performance apparel in July to accompany their leak-free guarantee waders. The company has also doubled down on its conservation support while giving back to its customers.

Chene is buying and giving a federal duck stamp to every customer who purchases their flagship waders in 2022.

Federal duck stamps are conservation revenue stamps bought primarily by waterfowl hunters who require them to hunt waterfowl legally once they turn 16. They’re also bought and collected by a small but important percentage of the non-hunting public, so anyone can contribute to conservation efforts by buying them.

Plus, duck stamps also serve as a free pass into any national wildlife refuge that charges an entry fee. Nearly all the proceeds go toward conserving habitat for birds and other wildlife, so a fair share of birders, photographers, and other outdoorsy folks buy Duck Stamps, too.

According to Ducks Unlimited, about 1.5 million federal duck stamps are sold annually. Since 1934, duck stamp sales have raised more than $1 billion for wetlands conservation. According to the US Fish and Wildlife Service, 98 cents of every dollar spent on each $25 stamp goes directly into acquiring vital habitats and has contributed to more than 6 million acres being acquired since the program’s start.

Chene Gear is both giving back to conservation and saying thank you to their customers with the Duck Stamp purchases.

“Quality habitat is the foundation to a healthy waterfowl population, and the duck stamp program has a stellar record of protecting the wetlands vital to ducks, geese, and countless other species of wildlife,” said Jeff Jones in a release; he’s Chene’s co-founder and chief product officer.

“We want to support this crucial mission by giving a portion of every wader we sell back to these special animals,” he added.

Not only is Chene purchasing federal waterfowl stamps for customers who purchase their waders, but they’re also encouraging them to purchase a stamp for someone else to bolster the pay-it-forward spirit and continue to support the conservation of the birds they love to hunt.

RELATED – Bear Attacks, Bear Hunting, Bear Brats, we’ve got it all right here!

Chene Gear’s Mission: A Wader That Doesn’t Leak, Plain and Simple

Chene Gear was created based on the idea of subverting the premise that “all waders leak” and it was founded by diehard waterfowlers who were tired of spending their hard-earned money on waders that did not perform their basic function, keeping them dry. The Chene founders are not what you’d call casual duck hunters. These men live in their waders. When they aren’t hunting, they spend the offseason improving habitat and participating in conservation efforts. In the fall, they’re still in their waders, reaping the fruits of their labor both on their home turf and across North America.

Chēne is the French word for Oak. The name was chosen to pay homage to their hunting roots and the famed waterfowl hunting history of Arkansas’ flooded oak bottoms.

“We wanted the brand’s name to represent our roots, and Arkansas’ rich waterfowl hunting heritage since our experience in this special part of the country is what drove us to start the company,” Jones said.

After years of product testing, Chene officially opened its doors with the launch of the Chene Gear Wader, their flagship product, in July 2021 (MSRP: $1,100).

After only a year, the company has some pretty heavy hitters in the waterfowling world giving testimonials as to the quality of their product. You’ll see names like Rob Kinney, a professional photographer who specializes in waterfowl, Spencer Halford, owner of Rolling Thunder Game Calls, and many others in Chene’s Behind The Waders video series.

But the waders were just the start for this up-and-coming waterfowl gear company. The folks at Chene are taking their desire to make better waterfowl gear to the next level. In July 2022, Chene Gear announced the launch of some pretty sweet-looking items, including The Sixty Series 1/2 Zip Hoodie, a Scout Vest, the Chene Over-And Under-Jacket, and more. But let’s take a look at the product that started it all, the Chene Waders:

In an effort to build a better wader, Chene completely reimagined how waders are made. The process began with the selection of a premium waterproof 4-layer nylon fabric instead of polyester. Waders are most commonly made from a three-layer polyester or neoprene fabric.

Nylon has proven to be more durable than polyester, but when you’re talking about breathable waders, there’s never a way to make them bulletproof. The seams are usually one of the first things to fail on any piece of clothing, and waders are no different. Many waders have stitched-and-taped seams, and stitching means making thousands of tiny holes in the fabric, and holes, no matter how tiny, aren’t good for waterproofing.

Chene Gear uses a stitchless process called mechanical bonding to make its waders. The process forms a waterproof seal, and then the seams are taped to serve as a secondary waterproofing measure.

Chene’s waders also feature a front YKK Aquaseal zipper for easy donning and doffing, adjustable shoulder straps, and a custom boot design with an EVA midsole for comfort. According to their website, Chene, of course, can’t guarantee its product will never fail — over time, softgoods degrade — but they do guarantee a superior customer service experience if you need to reach out to them about any product issues. The gear is also backed by a limited lifetime warranty.

If you’re looking at upgrading some of your gear for 2022, Chene Gear is worth considering.

READ NEXT – Gun and Ammo Sales Bring In $300M for Wildlife Conservation

Anyone who has ever flung an arrow at a fish can attest to the challenges of consistently hitting them. Even big, lumbering carp in an apparent stupor 10 feet away prove frustratingly illusive for novice bowfishers.

My first time bowfishing proved to be quite defeating. There were more than a few easy targets that swam away uninjured. If fish could laugh, I am sure they did. So what makes hitting a fish with an arrow so hard? And more importantly, where should you aim to begin with?

Always aim low when bowfishing. Water refracts light at a different angle compared to air so fish appear shallower than they really are. Your distance from the fish and its actual depth determine how far below the fish you should aim. Start by aiming at least 3 to 6 inches below fish in shallow water.

That answer though is not enough to become a bowfishing expert. If you want to hit more fish, don’t skip this article. We’ll give you all the information you need to shoot better, aim better and get more fish to the boat. Let’s get started.

Do you aim above or below fish

There really isn’t a single occasion where you would aim above a fish while bowfishing. Always aim low. In fact, aim much lower than you think. Even if you grasp the concept of light refraction in water, your first impulse is to aim directly at the fish. Resist this urge and push your arrow tip below the fish before you release.

How far below a fish do you aim

If you only learn one thing from this article, just remember to aim low. Yet, the obvious follow up question is how low do you aim?

It’s a tricky question to answer and it depends entirely on the actual depth of the fish in the water and its distance from the shooter. Of course, there are all sorts of angles and math that you could use to determine the exact place to aim at a fish. However, you won’t have time in the heat of the moment to calculate or remember a chart full of numbers.

Instead, use the following basic rules to get you close.

• 10-4 rule: Your distance from a fish plays a major role in how you aim with a bow. In general, for every 10 feet between you and a fish, aim 4 inches below it. That means if a fish is 15 feet away, aim 6 inches below the thickest part.

• 1-3 rule: Depth is even more critical than distance and much harder to gauge for inexperienced shooters. A standard guideline is to aim 3 inches below a fish for every 1 foot of depth. If you guess a fish to be 3 feet below the surface then aim 9 inches low.

Now lets put the 10-4 and 1-3 rules together in an example. Say, for instance, you stealthily sneak up to a carp rooting in the mud. You get within 10 feet and you guess the water to be 2-3 feet deep. Where do you aim?

Since you’re only 10 feet away, aim 4 inches low. But you also need to adjust 6-9 inches lower because of its depth beneath the surface. Overall, you should aim at a spot 10-12 inches below the fish’s belly.

Set reasonable expectations

When it comes to bowfishing, numbers only get you so far. Even with the 10-4 and 1-3 rules, you’ll still watch your arrow zip over the top of a fish or stick in the mud an inch from its head. It’s all part of the game and setting reasonable expectations is the best way to avoid frustration. Trust me, you’ll miss even more if you are frustrated.

So what should your expectations be?

First, don’t expect to hit every fish you shoot at. When you first start, it will take at least 5 to 10 shots before you make contact. Sure, sometimes you get lucky but most pros agree that your first 20 or 30 shots will be misses. It takes practice. Lots of practice. As you shoot more, you will miss less.

Secondly, force yourself to only shoot at fish within your “high probability zone”. For me, that’s a 20 foot circle. If a carp, gar or snakehead is within that range, there is a much better chance I’ll hit it. Anything outside of that and my margin for error goes way up.

For you, 20 feet may be too far. Or maybe you have superior archery skills and your high probability zone might stretch out to 30 feet. Either way, don’t waste your energy trying to make Hail Mary shots. Take the time to sneak closer for a better shot. You’ll gain more confidence and scare away fewer fish.

Aim with instinct

Our brains and bodies are capable of truly amazing feats. You can capitalize on this fact when bowfishing. Instinctive shooting is the natural ability to aim without thinking. The shots I tend to miss are the ones I thought about too much. I ignored my instinctive aim and tried to calculate and plan the shot.

Don’t fight your instinct. Keep in mind though that instinctual shooting doesn’t just happen. It takes repetition to calibrate that sub-conscious skill. Start out with the aiming rules we discussed. As you start hitting more fish you’ll develop the muscle memory that is the foundation of instinctive shooting. Pretty soon, you can hit a fish with out actually thinking about your aim.

One of the best ways to keep from over thinking a shot is to shoot fast. Pulling the bow back and releasing your arrow as soon as it feels right means you are tapping into that instinct. Holding back a few moments longer introduces doubt and gives your conscious brain time to override natural skill. Instinct is also your best chance at hitting a moving fish from a moving boat. Try calculating your aim in that situation and you’re guaranteed to miss.

Apply proper form

Shooting form is probably the hardest part of bowfishing and the most ignored element to improve your aim. It’s not easy to focus on stance and form when you’re flinging arrows from an unstable boat at constantly moving fish. Yet, any elite archer will tell you that proper form is the key to consistently hitting the bullseye. Therefore, it makes since to incorporate better form in bowfishing too.

You can improve your form using a few basic concepts that are outlined below.

• Establish a solid anchor point with the string to your face.
• Square your stance and shoulders just as you would with a hunting bow.
• Bend at the hips when aiming down at fish. Don’t hunch over.
• Keep a loose grip on the bow with your bow hand to avoid pulling a shot.
• Keep flex in your bow arm to prevent string slap and flinching.

Developing consistent form takes repetition. If you start out with good form though, it will quickly become cemented into muscle memory and you won’t need to think about it again. More of your attention can be focused on stalking the fish and taking the shot.

Can you use a sight when bowfishing

Understandably, people new to bowfishing assume that all the guess work can be eliminated by using a bow sight.

You can certainly use a sight when bowfishing and some prefer it over instinctive shooting. However, a sight is often inefficient since you need to adjust the pin position to match your shooting distance and depth of the fish for every shot.

Bowfishing involves a lot of snap shooting which is usually better suited for instinctive shooting. When the fish are thick and the action is fast and furious, even people using sights tend to revert to instinctive shooting.

If you also bow hunt for deer or elk, using your conventional hunting sight for bowfishing can lead to bad habits that translate back to hunting. It’s better to save the sight for hunting season and avoid it during bowfishing season.

5 tips to improve bowfishing accuracy

Once you nail down the principles of aiming and form, there are still several things you can do to improve your overall accuracy. Here are our 3 favorite tips for taking your bowfishing accuracy to the next level.

Tip #1

Practice shooting stuff in the water – Everything from floating leaves to a submerged plastic water bottle makes for good practice. You can even toss a few slices of wheat bread into the water as a practice target. The bread also double as a way to attract carp as it dissolves in the water.

Tip #2

Use polarized glasses – Polarized glasses cut surface glare and give you a clear sightline to the fish. Not only will you spot more fish, you’ll also be able to better gauge their depth and movement with polarized glasses.

Tip #3

Get the right gear – Just about any bow will work for bowfishing but getting the right gear goes a long ways to improving your accuracy. Everything from reel and arrow, to draw weight and bow length impacts how you shoot. If you are serious about bowfishing get equipment that fits you and helps make each shot easier to manage.

Tip #4

Focus on one fish at a time – Sometimes several fish will cruise by within bow range and you’ll struggle to zero in on a single target. Try to avoid bouncing from fish to fish. Pick one and keep your eyes glued on it while you aim and shoot.

Tip #5

Relax and breathe before your shot – Just like some hunters get buck fever, some of us get fish fever too. Calm your nerves as you approach a fish. Focus, relax, and breath as you aim and shoot.

Parting words

Bowfishing is an awesome sport filled with challenges and loads of action. When you feel like setting down the fishing pole and picking up a bow, give bowfishing a try.

Want to know if you have a bowfishing season in your state? Don’t miss our guide to bowfishing laws for all 50 states. See if bowfishing is legal in your neck of the woods!

You probably thought seeing in the dark was a superpower when you were a kid. Now that you’re all grown up and have a little coin in your pocket, you can actually buy that ability with one of 2024’s best thermal monoculars.

If you’ve got pesky coyotes, hogs, and boars that insist on showing up where they’re not welcome, you can peel back the darkness and find out exactly where they are with the push of a button.

But it’s not just about nighttime. Infrared imaging scanners can expose camouflaged deer and elk who’ve bedded down during the day or blended into the woods too well to see. If something gives off heat, a thermal monocular can help you see it — night or day.

We’ve picked out various products from some of the best names in thermal imaging, like FLIR, Pulsar, ATN, and AGN. These trusted brands have products that satisfy all portions of the price scale, including budget options, under $1000 picks, and $4000 state-of-the-art monsters.

Deciding which thermal monocular you need depends on many essential variables — like how you plan to use it, the range you need it to detect, and your budget. The best thermal imaging device for one hunter could be a poor choice for another.

But enough of all this talk about superpowers and price scales. Our reviews of 2024’s best imaging monoculars for hunters and homeowners will heat up your imagination and maybe even help take down a coyote or two.

Budget or “Cheap” Thermal Devices

When it comes to entry-level thermal monoculars, each unit comes with a 160×120 thermal sensor. That’s nowhere near the pixel density of 640×480 sensors available on the higher end, but that doesn’t make these units worthless by any means.

A decent thermal monocular can help you detect prey animals at short distances that would otherwise be undetectable. Or, if you’re following a blood trail that’s gone cold, they’ll peer through the darkness and illuminate what you might otherwise miss.

To be blunt, we prefer mid-range imaging devices of 384×288 pixels or better, but if you want to dip your feet into the thermal monocular game, you can still reap some benefits from the following budget-friendly devices.

Best Inexpensive Solution AGM Global Vision Asp-Micro TM160

Thermal Sensor: 160×120 Refresh Rate: 25 Hz Display: 720×540 LCOS Detection Range: 250 meters Weight: .6 lb NETD: <35 mK Best for: Detecting heat signatures Not for: Identifying creatures

As you might’ve guessed from the name, the AGM Asp-Micro TM160 is a small handheld thermal imager that fits easily inside your pocket.

Equipped with a 160×120 thermal detector, you’re not getting the most impressive thermal imaging monocular on the market, not by a longshot. But, if you need to spot heat signatures quickly, the TM160 could make the difference between detecting hogs and coyotes or letting them run wild and ravage your property.

Some additional features you’ll get with the Asp-Micro TM160 include:

• 10-hour battery life
• 8 GB internal storage
• Video and photo camera
• Up to 4x digital zoom

In short, this cheap option for sale delivers solid performance without breaking the bank.

Pocket-Sized Heat Imager FLIR Systems Scout TK Mini

Thermal Sensor: 160×120 Display: 640×480 LCD Detection Range: 91 meters Weight: .4 lb NETD: Unlisted Best for: Home security Not for: Identifying creatures

The next affordable infrared spotter on our list comes from a well-known name in the thermal monocular space: FLIR Systems.

Even more compact and lightweight than the TM160, the Scout TK Mini weighs only .4 pounds. That makes it a portable companion for home security and animal detection, as well.

Like the TM160, you won’t be able to identify animals at far distances with this device, but it can give you the edge you need.

Just be careful: you’ll have to get close to identify animals with a sub-$1,000 monocular like the FLIR Scout TK Mini.

Additional features include:

• Still image and video recording
• 5-hour battery life
• IP67 dust and waterproof rating
• Eight color palettes

If you’re looking for the most lightweight budget thermal monocular, consider the Micro TK Mini. And if weight isn’t your biggest concern, the next infrared imager is a significant upgrade thanks to its zoom capabilities.

Good Quality without Breaking the Bank ATN OTS-XLT 2.5-10x

Thermal Sensor: 160×120 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 720×540 Detection Range: 850 meters Weight: .8 lb Best for: Short-range prey detection Not for: Long-range identification

The ATN OTS-XLT 2.5-10x uses the same size microbolometer sensor as our first two recommendations but offers a bit higher detection and identification range with a 2.5x base magnification and up to 10x zoom.

This additional zoom will come in handy if you want to center your thermogram and give yourself more confidence when identifying, though you shouldn’t expect to identify hogs or coyotes at long range.

I’d like to clarify my use of the word “identification” here. If you’re an experienced hog and coyote hunter, the ATN OTS-XLT can help you identify those creatures day or night. But telling the difference between a dog and a coyote with a smaller sensor isn’t for novices, so keep that in mind.

That said, if you’re new to thermal imaging or want a monocular that offers more detail, upgrading to a larger thermal detector resolution will do wonders for your identification game.

Features of this scanner include:

• Four color palettes
• 10-hour battery life
• Base magnification of 2.5x
• Zoom up to 10x
• Camera for video and pictures

If you’re confident in your identification capabilities, you might get the job done with this entry-level ATN thermal unit.

Rugged Thermal Smartphone AGM G2 Guardian

Base Magnification: 5.6x Thermal Sensor: 256 x 192 Refresh Rate: 25 Hz Pixel Pitch: 12 micron Display: 6.58’’ FHD+ 120Hz Detection Range: 500 meters Weight: .9 lb Best for: Anyone who wants or needs the convenience of a thermal monocular on their cell phone Not for: Extreme distances, fast-moving objects

New for 2024, and the first product of its kind, the AGM G2 Guardian is a rugged cell phone and long-range thermal monocular in one.

We were fortunate enough to receive one of these bad boys to test drive, and to say that we’re impressed with the functionality of this gadget would be an understatement.

After some first-hand experience, we can definitively say that this device from AGM is a valuable tool for a variety of users; whether you’re a hunter, outdoorsmen, first responder, or construction worker (think HVAC, electrical, or plumbing).

The G2 Guardian boasts a 25 Hz refresh rate. While that’s paltry compared to others on this list, it’s important to note that for the price, it’s one of the best values for any entry-level thermal device. Its MSRP rings in at an approachable $899.

The G2 Guardian is feature-rich; here are some of our favorite attributes:

• It’s unlocked and can be used with any carrier
• Built-in 109 dB speaker
• 108 MP camera
• Beefy 7,000 milliamp battery
• Impact resistant and waterproof

You get more than just a long-range thermal monocular with the Guardian G2 from AGM, you get a trailblazing and one-of-a-kind gadget that’ll stand up to anything you can throw its way.

VIEW ON AGM MOBILE

Mid-Range Infrared Scanners

Now that we’ve considered some solid budget options, let’s move into the best mid-range thermal monoculars for hunting. The truth is, many thermal imaging experts consider this price range the actual entry level.

If you’re willing to drop a little more coin on one of these devices, you’ll be rewarded with a much better thermal sensor that offers 500% more microbolometer pixels. That means a sharper image, more heat detection, and a greater chance of identifying your prey.

Strap in because this is where the products start to get very interesting.

The Now-We’re-Talkin’ Choice AGM Global Vision Taipan TM15-384

Base Magnification: 1.5x Thermal Sensor: 384×288 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 12 micron Display: 1280×960 LCOS Detection Range: 708 meters Weight: .6 lb NETD: <35mK Best for: Mid-range detection, short-range ID Not for: Long ranges

For hunters who want a device that can identify prey up to 200 meters in the dark, fog, or haze, this is the best thermal imaging for hunting monocular of 2024 for the money.

For starters, this unit is a breeze to use. There’s no focus ring to adjust; it fits your pocket easily and delivers a wide field of view. In short, beginners can turn on this compact handheld device, start scanning, and expect high performance with minimal adjustments.

Efficiency like this is possible because AGM engineered the monocular well and gave it a solid foundation. With a 384×288-pixel microbolometer, 12-micron pixel pitch, a generous 1280×960 LCOS display, and 1.5x magnification, users of all stripes can detect even small rodents at relatively long distances.

If you’re looking for camouflaged deer or elk at dusk or dawn, it should be no surprise when you find great success with this AGM unit.

Some other useful features you’ll find include:

• 7.5 hour run time
• Hot-spot mark
• Distance measurement
• Up to 8x zoom
• App integration
• Camera for video and picture
• IP67 dust and waterproofing

For hunters who don’t need long detection ranges or those who hunt in tight spaces, the Taipan TM15-384 is the unit for you.

Great Value Long-Range Detection AGM Global Vision Taipan TM25-384

Base Magnification: 2.5x Thermal Sensor: 384×288 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 12 micron Display: 1280×960 LCOS Detection Range: 1,180 meters Weight: .7 lb NETD: <35mK Best for: Mid to long-range detection Not for: Short ranges

The previous AGM thermal monocular provides such great value that we had to include the upgraded 2.5x magnification model. If you value the ability to detect heat signatures up to 1,180 meters, you’ll love the Taipan TM25-384.

It uses the same infrared-detecting sensor as the TM15 but offers a longer focal length and higher magnification level. The benefit of 2.5x magnification is the ability to see animals as if they’re 2.5 times closer than what you’d typically see.

So, if you’re a long-range hunter who puts in extensive miles tracking and monitoring the behavior of big game like elk, this tool can allow you to see in the dark, gaze through the fog, and get the leg up on your prey.

Just know that you’ll have to scan the area a bit more thoroughly to cover the same ground as the TM15, as it has a smaller field of view (FOV). This is normal with higher magnification devices; they make it more challenging to spot up close-and-personal prey.

With those facts understood, we believe this is 2024’s best long-range thermal monocular for the money. We can’t recommend it enough for day and night hunting. Just keep in mind that you can’t replace the battery yourself.

Reference the TM15-384’s listing above for this specific unit’s additional features. And, if you don’t require this much magnification, a unit like the AGM Global Vision TM19 will hit the sweet spot perfectly.

Feature-Packed Imaging Device Burris BTH 50 3.3-13.2x50mm

Base Magnification: 3.3x Thermal Sensor: 400×300 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 1280×960 LCOS Detection Range: 708 meters NETD: 50 mK Weight: 1.2 lb Best for: Long-range detect, short to mid-range ID Not for: Very long ranges

While AGM thermal monoculars provide some of the best value in the space, Burris isn’t too far behind. Based on their included bevy of features, we think they offer greater value to hunters than the AGM solutions.

The main difference between the AGM TM15-25 line and the Burris BTH is the size of the thermal sensors. Burris put a slightly bigger unit on this device, which clocks in at 400×300. This handheld can collect more infrared energy than its AGM counterparts, and perhaps that’s part of why it weighs nearly twice as much.

Another reason for the added weight is this unit’s rangefinder, which can help you determine the exact distance between you and that raccoon, coyote, deer, or whatever else.

If ranging capabilities weren’t enough, hunters can set up the BTH and use it as a remote camera in the blind. Doing so will allow them to see what’s happening from a distance. The app integration on this beast truly sets it apart from the first two mid-range devices in this section.

High-tech equipment can mean the difference between filling your tag and spooking the game you’re after. We think the former is a better option, so check out the following features if you want to know what else this puppy can do.

• Picture-in-picture mode
• Five unique color palettes
• Hot tracking
• Remote control via smartphone
• Multiple reticles, unlike AGM products
• IP66 rated for dust and waterproofing

For a feature-packed thermal device at a great price, check out the Burris BTH50.

High-End Thermal Monoculars

This section is for you hunters and homeowners who want a device with a 384-pixel sensor that offers all the bells and whistles.

And, if you want to start dipping your toes into the 640-pixel waters, we’ve got an excellent choice immediately at the end of this section.

Rangefinding-Capable High End Buy Pulsar 2-8x Axion 2 LRF XQ35

Base Magnification: 2x Thermal Sensor: 384x 288 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 640×400 AMOLED Detection Range: 1,400 meters NETD: <40 mK Weight: .7 lb Best for: Long-range infrared detection, short to mid-range ID Not for: Extreme distances

Pulsar is a well-known and respected name in the thermal imaging arena. Their excellent customer service sure helps, but their spread of world-class heat-tracking products is why they’re one of the best, if not the best, in the business.

Housed in a magnesium-armored body and easy to slide into a pocket, the handheld Axion 2 LRF (laser range finder) can help you spot and range prey animals over 1,100 meters away. And, unlike all the other previous devices on this list, it utilizes a sharp, high-contrast AMOLED display.

The benefit of an AMOLED display is that it works in lower temperatures than an LCOS display. So, if you’re hunting or scanning in a frozen Minnesota winter, an AMOLED display could be the ticket.

It’s worth noting that this device comes in a non-rangefinding version as well.

You can save a good chunk of change by going without the LRF, and if you do, you’re still getting one of the best thermal imagers for hunting at any price point, let alone in the sub-$2,000 range. We love the rangefinder version, however, since it serves double duty in our packs.

Check out the Axion 2 XQ38 LRF if you want a unit with less base magnification. With both models, you’ll get:

• Eight color palettes
• Picture-in-picture mode
• 11-hour battery life and user-swappable batteries
• 2.4/5GHz WiFi wavebands
• European-made Lynred sensor
• 16 GB internal storage (and 16 GB free cloud)
• Fast start-up (fully booted in 5 seconds)
• IPX6 waterproof rating

The feature-rich Pulsar Axion line isn’t cheap, but it’s well worth the money for all types of hunting — including hog, coyote, deer, elk, and more.

Top-of-the-Line 384-Pixel Device Pulsar Helion 2 XQ50

Base Magnification: 4.5x Thermal Sensor: 384x 288 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 1024×768 AMOLED Detection Range: 1,800 meters NETD: <40 mK Weight: 1.10 lb Best for: Long-range detection, short to mid-range ID Not for: Very long range ID

Compared to the Axion 2 I just mentioned, the Helion 2 XQ50 has a few significant advantages. The first leg up that springs to mind is this unit’s detection range. Because this imager starts with a 4.5x magnification, you’ll get an impressive 1,800 meters of range compared to the 1,400 meters of the Axion 2.

Of course, a device’s detection range isn’t all that matters. For example, you might prefer less magnification if you hunt in more confined quarters. If that’s the case, a unit like the Helion 2 XQ38 might be the best choice for you.

The Helion XQ series utilized excellent displays. Thanks to a standard 1024×768 AMOLED screen, these top-end devices provide razor-sharp optical detail for hunters in less-than-perfect conditions — day or night, in the summer, or during cold winters.

Pulsar built these units to last. They’re constructed of magnesium, which serves multiple purposes, including increased structural strength, heat dissipation, and high-quality image maintenance.

You can also expect:

• Up to 8x digital zoom
• Built-in photo and video camera
• WiFi integration with Android and iOS
• 10-hour battery life and multiple battery options
• Stadiametric rangefinding and reticle (non-laser)
• 16 GB onboard storage

If you want a 384-pixel sensor with the most bells and whistles available in a thermal monocular, the Helion 2 series is your best bet.

Our First 640-Pixel Unit AGM Global Vision Asp TM35-640

Base Magnification: 1.4x Thermal Sensor: 640×512 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 1024×768 OLED Detection Range: 1,600+ meters Weight: 1.1 lb Best for: Identification at mid-range Not for: Users who want quick-swap batteries

Once again, AGM shows up to the thermal imaging party with one of 2024’s very best models you can buy for your hard-earned money — the Asp TM35-640.

Equipped with the largest sensor featured in this article so far, it’ll deliver high-end thermal imaging capability, which means more crips and detailed images. Simply put, 640×512 sensors capture nearly 300% more thermal energy than their 384×288 counterparts.

With more detail, you’ll be able to identify animals at longer distances, which could mean a world of difference if you’re trying to differentiate between a buck or a doe, for example.

But that’s not the only advantage. The Asp TM35-640 comes with an OLED display, which provides more contrast than its AMOLED counterparts. Blacks are blacker with OLEDs, so you’ll be able to differentiate thermal signatures easier and more precisely.

There is one downside, though. Unlike the Pulsar units above, the battery is not user-replaceable.

Other than that minor gripe, we love this device, which also comes with:

• 5-hours of battery life
• 16 GB built-in memory
• Photo and video camera
• Four color palettes
• Hot spot tracking
• Up to 4x digital zoom

The TM35-640 is our top pick in the high-end range due to its technological advantages (640 sensor, OLED) over the two Pulsars above.

VIEW ON AMAZON

Higher-than-High End Units

For the discerning hunter and homeowners who spare no expense, we’re happy to showcase the best of the best thermal monoculars of 2024.

While we’re aware that several thermal monoculars exceed this price point (~$4,000), we think these units are the best because they’re made for you — hunters. Here you’ll find cutting-edge sensors, bells, whistles, advanced capabilities, and incredible performance.

Best All-Around High End Pulsar Helion XP50 PRO

Base Magnification: 2.5x Thermal Sensor: 640×480 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 17 micron Display: 1024×756 AMOLED Detection Range: 1,800 meters Weight: 1.1 lb NETD: <25 mK Best for: Detailed observation in harsh conditions Not for: One issue here is price, but if you can afford it, get it

Suppose you want the best possible compact thermal imaging monocular for hunting in the world. In that case, regardless of price, you’d be hard-pressed to top the genius-level capabilities that Pulsar stuffed into their Helion XP50 Pro.

It all starts with the thermal sensor Pulsar used in their flagship handheld. With a <25 mK NETD rating, this unit has no problem discerning even the smallest differences in heat. Those tiny differences, delivered to its HD-quality screen, give you a vivid and complete view of the field.

No matter the weather you’re battling, even extreme cold coupled with rain and fog, you’ll cut through it all to spot what you’re after — creatures that would be hidden entirely otherwise. And even if it takes you a while to spot what you’re after, this device uses hot-swappable batteries to keep you going as long as you want.

With 1,800 meters of detection range, you’ll be able to scan extreme distances. This impressive range, coupled with the high-end visual abilities packed into the unit, will allow you to identify precisely what the thermogram is displaying long before inferior units.

Additional game-breaking features of the Helion XP50 PRO include:

• Picture-in-picture
• Stadiametric rangefinding
• IPX7 waterproof rating
• Easy-to-update software
• 8+ hours of battery life
• 8x zoom

If you’re ready to step up to the highest level, check out Pulsar’s Helion XP50 Pro. But if you don’t battle temperature swings often, our next option might be even better for you.

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Biggest Thermal Sensor Leica Calonox

Base Magnification: 2.5x Thermal Sensor: 640×512 Refresh Rate: 50 Hz Pixel Pitch: 12 micron Display: 1280×960 LCOS Detection Range: 3,000 meters Weight: 1.5 lb NETD: Not listed Best for: Long-range detection and ID Not for: Extreme temperature variance locations, but it’ll do just fine if you find yourself in one

In our opinion, the thermal device with the best image isn’t from Pulsar; it’s the Leica Calonox. To help decide between the two units, ask yourself one question:

Do you prefer to notice greater temperature changes, or do you seek out more detailed images?

Versus the Pulsar Helion XP50, Leica uses a 640×512 microbolometer while the Pulsar uses a 640×480 counterpart. For that reason, the Leica can collect more thermal energy via its sensor.

Then, because the Leica uses a more advanced 12-micron pixel pitch, the images are crisper and easier to see since there’s less distance between the center of each pixel and its neighbor.

The result is arguably the sharpest image on the market when it comes to compact handhelds explicitly made for hunters. But because the Leica uses an LCOS display, it won’t fare as well as the Helion in downright cold temperatures.

Your choice ultimately comes down to the environment you’ll do most of your thermal imaging. At 3,000 meters, the Calonox has nearly double the detection range of the Helion XP50 Pro. Do you need that much range, or would you rather have better performance in harsh conditions?

Here are some additional features to help guide your decision making:

• Leica Image Optimization (LIO) for extreme sharpness
• Up to 5 hours of run time
• IPX4 Rating
• 10x magnification
• Four color palettes
• Excellent app integration and remote control
• Can be used while charging

It’s pretty apparent that the Leica Calonox is an exciting challenger to the Pulsar Helion XP50 Pro.

Longest Range on the List ATN OTS 4T 640 4-40x Smart HD

Base Magnification: 4x Thermal Sensor: 640×480 Refresh Rate: 60 Hz Pixel Pitch: Not listed Display: 1280×720 LCOS Detection Range: 3,300 meters Weight: 2.0 lb NETD: <25 mK Best for: Long-range scanning, marathon hunting sessions Not for: Swampy environments — not rated for submerging in water

Not to be outdone, ATN presents its challenger to the thermal imaging throne. If you need extreme range, the ATN OTS 4T 640 4-40x tops all others on this list.

With 3,300 meters of detection, the ATN delivers excellent image quality via its 640×480 sensor. One exciting way that ATN stands apart from its competition is that it utilizes a superior 60 Hz refresh rate, enabling hunters to scan the field quicker and miss fewer details.

Capabilities like these are beneficial when considering this model’s base magnification. Starting at 4x, you’ll be able to eyeball the field without fear of being spotted. And, if you need different magnification levels, ATN offers several other powers in this series.

If you don’t need the extreme magnification and zoom this particular unit provides, chances are there’s something more your speed on this list.

Each device in this series includes:

• Spin-to-zoom wheel
• 16+ hours of battery life
• Dual-core processing
• Video recording
• HD video streaming
• Ballistic calculator

If you’re seeking excellent battery life and ultra-long-range detection, you can’t do better than the OTS 640 series from ATN.

And if you don’t need long-range capabilities and desire less magnification, going with the ATN OTS 4T 640 1.5-15x will save you some dough over our previous top-end recommendations.

Technical Considerations of Thermal Monoculars

Thermal monoculars are complex devices that give you the ability to see heat. Since animals are warmer than their surroundings, these devices pick up their infrared energy and turn it into visible light that a hunter can see.

With the suitable unit for the hunting and imaging you do, you’ll be able to inspect the darkness or defeat natural camouflage to spot hogs, coyotes, deer, elk, and other game that typically go undetected.

But, that ability isn’t possible without advanced electronics and materials. Let’s dive into the most critical aspects of thermal monoculars and what they mean for your buying decision.

Lens Material and Size

Unlike binoculars or spotting scopes that use glass for their objective lens, the lens at the end of the cylinder, many infrared scanners use the germanium. That’s because infrared light doesn’t pass through glass.

Germanium, on the other hand, is invisible to infrared light, enabling it to pass through and relay infrared information to the electronics. That info is then processed and delivered to your eyepiece.

The larger the objective lens, the more infrared light the sensor can capture. If you know you’ll be hunting a lot at night or in adverse conditions, a larger lens will help you see more infrared energy.

Sensor and Resolution

Also called the microbolometer, this component reacts to infrared wavelengths or heat given off by your prey. It’s composed of pixels that send electrical impulses to the electronics for processing, creating an image your eyes can see.

The more pixels your senor has, the better image quality you’ll receive. At the lower end of the price spectrum, you’ll commonly see 160×120 microbolometers, which equates to 19,200 total pixels overall.

If you were to move up into the next level of thermal monocular class we discuss, the 384×288 units, you get 110,592 pixels, or over a 500% increase. With more pixels, you’ll see more detailed images, meaning you’ll be able to spot and identify animals with far more certainty.

For that reason, we strongly recommend going with a 384-pixel unit or better. Check out the AGM Global Vision Thermal Monocular Taipan TM15-384 for the best 384-pixel unit you can buy for the money.

Pixel Pitch

Now that you’ve got an idea of what microbolometers do and how they work, it’s vital to discuss pixel pitch. This number measures the distance, in microns or µm, between pixels directly next to one another. You’ll typically see 17 µm or 12 µm measurements.

A lower number denotes a higher-quality sensor. That’s because there’s less space between the pixels themselves. With less distance between the pixels, the sensor can create more detail to give you a sharper image.

Noise Equivalent Temperature Difference (NETD)

NETD is the sensor’s ability to discern even the most minute differences in temperature. Like the pixel pitch measurement, this is another measurement that’s better if its value is lower.

Anything below the 60 milli-Kelvin (mK) is considered an above-average sensor. The higher quality instruments, such as the Pulsar Helion XP50 PRO, feature sensors capable of discerning minute differences in temperature, which helps give hunters the clearest, most precise image available.

In the case of the Helion XP50 Pro, its NETD value is <25 mK, making it one of the best values you’ll find on the market today.

Display Resolution and Type

After the microbolometer takes infrared information and passes it to its electronics for processing, that info will arrive on the display to show you what you’re looking at.

There are a few critical bits of information to know regarding displays. The first is resolution.

High-end devices use HD resolutions like 1280×960. On lower-end devices, you’ll typically see lower resolutions, including 720×540. Just like the microbolometer, more pixels lead to more detail. You can make out more of the animal or scene you’re investigating with more visible pixels.

The next information to keep an eye on is the display type.

On low-end devices, you’ll typically see LCOS displays. These are solid since they use very little energy and are relatively cheap, but they won’t work in temperatures below 14° F. You’ll want an AMOLED or OLED display if you regularly hunt or use your monocular in colder temps.

AMOLED displays work down to -25° Fahrenheit. They also provide greater contrast than what you’d get in an LCOS display, which can help you make out minute differences in a scene.

OLED displays work in similar temperatures as AMOLED displays, but they have an advantage considering contrast ratios. Because an OLED pixel powers itself, you’ll get deeper blacks on your display.

When using palettes like white-hot or black-hot, higher contrast levels can mean you’ll see more detail on your display. However, AMOLED displays have higher color saturation, meaning you’ll get more color when using palettes like fusion.

Ultimately, the image should look fantastic if you’re buying a high-end device, whether it uses an AMOLED or OLED display.

Magnification

Typically, thermal monoculars have some sort of base magnification. Shorter-range devices start at 1.4x or 1.5x, meaning objects appear 1.4x or 1.5x closer to your eye than you’d see naturally. Some have no magnification at all.

You can expect base magnifications of 2.5x to 4x and higher for long-range thermal monoculars.

If you hunt animals at great distances, say you’re in an enormous flat expanse somewhere in the plains of eastern Wyoming, detecting animals at long range can make the difference between missing a potential trophy buck or filling your tag.

Field of View

If you’re not aware, field of view is the width of the area you can see on your thermal imaging monocular display.

It relates to magnification in a pretty specific way. If you’re looking through a lens with higher magnification, you’ll have a smaller FOV. If you need to scan wide-open spaces, a larger FOV may be for you.

But, if you value the ability to see far, a monocular with a higher base magnification might make the most sense. It just depends on what and where you’re hunting.

Zoom

With zoom, you’re taking that base magnification and enlarging it. In the case of thermal monoculars, you’ll be doing so with a digital zoom feature. The electronics in your device are simply digitizing a larger version of what you’d see with no zoom applied to the image.

Zoom can help you determine whether or not the thermal image you’re seeing is prey worth further investigating or if you’re just looking at the neighbor’s dog.

Detection Range

When you combine the lens, microbolometer, display, and magnification, the hope is to create a marriage of components that will help you detect coyotes, hogs, deer, elk, or whatever else.

Different thermal monoculars have different detection ranges, which are measured in meters. Monoculars with large microbolometers and higher zoom numbers give you more extensive detection ranges.

Detection essentially just lets you know a creature is out there. Depending on how close you are to it and what color palette you’re using, it could show up as a splotch of light or a highly detailed image.

How easy it is to identify animals at a given range depends on the quality of your monocular.

Let’s talk about that next.

Identification Range

All animals, humans included, give off heat, so deciphering what you’re looking at can be tricky. High-quality thermal monoculars allow you to identify the creature on your display at further distances than lower-quality devices.

Just like detection range, identification range is measured in meters. Naturally, all products always have a smaller identification range than they do detection range. That said, you can get away with a shorter identification range if you’re well accustomed to animal behavior and movement.

But, if you want to be sure about what you’re viewing, you’ll need to find a thermal monocular with a more extended identification range, for example:

If you’re a coyote hunter, knowing whether you’re looking at a coyote or a dog can make the difference between having some serious explaining to do or eliminating a harmful nuisance from your property.

A device like the Leica Calonox makes for an excellent identification tool.

Refresh Rate (Hertz)

Your refresh rate relates to both your microbolometer and display. This value, or the amount of Hertz, states the number of times per second your microbolometer or display will refresh.

Typically, you’ll see values of 50 Hz, meaning the image can refresh itself 50 times per second. If you scan large areas, you’ll want a higher value to keep up with how quickly you move the device.

Palettes

Thermal monoculars have a variety of ways to display the thermal information they pick up, and they’re called color pallets. Using different colors allows hunters to better decipher the scenery around them. We’ll discuss the four most widely used here.

Black Hot: Warmer objects appear black. This palate is used extensively by hunters and law enforcement because it doesn’t deviate much from how humans typically view the world.

White Hot: Warmer objects look white. This palate is one of the most commonly used for surveillance in urban environments.

Red Hot: Warmer objects look red. This palate is probably what you think of when you hear the words “thermal imaging.”

Rainbow: Warmer objects appear lighter and cool objects appear darker. This palate is excellent for observing objects and environments where heat differentials are minor.

Durability and Waterproofing

Because the items listed here are made mainly for hunting, they require a certain level of durability.

Spending lots of time in the great outdoors will beat the heck out of stuff, so finding durable equipment that can last several seasons will inevitably save you some dough.

One of the ways you can tell if something is durable is to identify what it’s made of. The Pulsar 2-8x Axion 2 LRF XQ35 is an excellent example of a product made of solid materials; in this case, Pulsar constructed it of incredibly durable magnesium.

Another way to determine how a product will fare against the elements is via its IP (ingress protection) rating. An IP rating tells you how well an enclosure can keep dust, water, and other stuff out. For example, in the case of an IP67, the first number (6) is the solids protection. Six and up indicates that the product is dust-proof.

The second number, 7, tells the consumer how water-tight a product is. In this case, seven means the product can withstand being submerged in water for up to 30 minutes.

In short, IP ratings give hunters a quick way of telling how much interior protection a product will have out in the wild.

Click here for a full breakdown of the IP rating system.

Battery Life and Type

If you plan on hunting for extended periods, you’ll want a device with long battery life. Better yet, find a device that enables you to swap batteries and extend your day in the field.

One great example of a device with long battery life is the ATN OTS 4T 640 4-40x Thermal Smart HD. Batteries can weigh a lot, so be sure to find your sweet spot between battery life and weight when choosing your next thermal imager.

WiFi Connectivity

Some devices are equipped with WiFi capabilities, which connect the thermal imager to a cell phone to transfer data between the two. Most devices use the older 2.4 GHz spectrum, but newer ones use 5 GHz for faster data transfer speeds.

Size and Weight

At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, the size and weight of your thermal monocular could mean the difference between making it a joy to carry or a bulky hindrance.

Get your hands on a device that offers you the portability you require. One example of a lightweight unit with exceptional capabilities is the AGM TM19-384.

Safety

Thermal monoculars make up just one portion of the thermal imaging market. Manufacturers sell thermal binoculars and thermal scopes as well. Compared to thermal scopes, I think monoculars are safer.

When using a rifle scope, you have to point your weapon at what you want to scan. Doing so can present some safety concerns if you’re hunting with a large group or in a well-trafficked area. Plus, looking through the scope all the time can be a literal pain in the neck.

I think the safest way to use thermal technology is via a monocular, though a solid thermal rifle scope is a nice piece of kit too.

Warranty

A product’s warranty is something to consider when dropping over a grand on a thermal monocular. Make sure you feel comfortable with the company you’re dealing with and the warranty they offer. Read the fine print.

Most of the monoculars on this list come from companies that offer three-year limited warranties for their products. As always, ensure you’re getting a solid warranty from a trusted company when you decide to purchase this significant.

Thermal Technology vs. Night Vision

Many of you might wonder whether night vision or thermal monoculars are best for hunting, and there’s some confusion surrounding the debate.

The differences between the two come down to what each device can “see” and how it sees it.

Night vision devices rely on a light source — the moon immediately comes to mind. You can also use an infrared illumination device to provide your scope or monocular with a light source.

On the other hand, thermal imaging doesn’t require any light whatsoever. These devices pick up heat signatures and can work flawlessly in the pitch dark of a moonless night. You can also use a thermal imaging unit in the daytime to help you detect and identify bedded or naturally camouflaged animals.

Both thermal and night vision devices have their advantages and drawbacks, so using them in conjunction is good. For example, a thermal monocular and a night vision scope combo tacked onto your rifle could be a winning combo for quick scanning to detect prey and accurate shot placement.

Which of 2024’s Best Thermal Monoculars Will See the Heat?

As you can see, 2024’s best thermal monoculars come in all shapes and sizes. The high-tech products we recommend are lightweight, handheld, and extremely helpful for spotting and identifying coyotes, hogs, and other pesky creatures.

Not only can one of these infrared scanners help you see in the dark, but they can help you spot creatures when conditions are foggy, rainy, and frigid. The coyotes, hogs, and raccoons out there will stand no chance if you’ve got a quality thermal monocular in your kit.

Heck, you also get an advantage in the daytime if you’re looking to find bedded and naturally camouflaged wild game like deer and elk.

So hopefully, no matter which device you pick, whether it’s a Pulsar, ATN, or AGM Global Vision, it’ll give you the ability to see what your eyes alone can’t.

Whether you’re looking for a budget option, a solid setup under $1,000, the best mid-range choice for the money, or an ultra-high-end hoss, we hope our thermal imaging for hunting reviews and write-ups give you all the advantages you seek.

Thanks for checking out 2024’s best thermal monoculars, and be sure to check back soon for more hot gear reviews.

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Last Updated on July 24, 2024

If you are an outdoors enthusiast, you may be considering purchasing a PCP air rifle for your next hunting trip. While these rifles can offer lethal accuracy and power at long distances, there is one important factor to consider—scopes. Do PCP air rifles need special scopes?

Understanding the Scope Needs of PCP Air Rifles

The answer is NO. Any scope will work on a PCP as there is little to no recoil. In the case of spring air guns, however, a special scope must be used due to the significant amount of recoil generated by the springs when firing. This type of scope has a reticle braced both in front and in the back to absorb shock.

For other types of air rifles (e.g. PCP or CO2 guns) you can use any scope but it is a good idea to get one with AO or side focus down to 10 or 15 yards.

This feature enables you to quickly adjust the focus on your target without having to take your eyes off it, giving you an advantage when tracking the game at close range.

Additionally, for hunting purposes it is also a good idea to get a holdover reticle that takes into account the trajectory of air guns—this style of the reticle will help compensate for bullet drop so that you can make more accurate shots from longer distances.

All in all, while PCP rifles do not require special scopes like some other types of air guns do, they still benefit from specific features like AO/side focus and holdover reticles that make shooting more accurate and efficient. By understanding what type of scope your particular firearm needs and investing in quality optics, you will have everything you need for successful hunting trips with your PCP air rifle!