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How to build a layering system

Checking out some elk rub

When I first heard the term “layering system,” I wrote it off as a bunch of mumbo-jumbo. I was perfectly content with my huge stack of long johns, flannels, and hand-me-down jackets. To me, it was just another ploy to get the attention of hunters who had a wallet too big to sit on. Over time, though, I did start to get tired of bringing a suitcase full of clothes with me on my hunts. Wearing too many clothes also interfered with my mobility, which wasn’t cool—especially if you are a bowhunter. I used to wear the leg end of a sock on my arm and over my jacket so that my bow string wouldn’t make contact on the shot. If it did, my arrow would fly left. So, this layering system mumbo jumbo started to get my attention. I noticed that the clothing was not nearly as bulky and you didn’t need nearly as much of it. Now, the problem was, where to start?

What is a layering system?

First Lite layering system

The best place to start is to, first, define what a layering system actually is. The term gets thrown around a lot, especially now with all of the new high tech clothing lines out there. When I started looking into this stuff, it was pretty confusing to me. Each company might have their own names for certain pieces of clothing, which is, of course, not universal throughout the rest of the industry. This can be confusing if you are not educated on the subject. However, a layering system is exactly what it says it is: a system that works together to cover you all the way from blazing hot temperatures to freezing ones. Sounds hard to believe, right? Believe me, I know, because I was there. What if I told you that I have three to four pieces of gear that get me through 95% of the year? That’s way less than the stack of clothing I once used. It’s also way more efficient and effective. Here’s how it works.

Base Layers

Mid morning layers

Your first and second layers are going to be your base layers. Some might see these and think that they are reminiscent of the long johns we are all familiar with from our youth. They might resemble them in appearance, but they are very different. Unlike the old school long johns that were only worn in cold weather, these new pieces are also worn in hot weather. I wear the same base layers whether it is 100 degrees or 20 degrees. Sounds impossible, right? How does something keep me both warm and cool when I need it to? The key is in the fabric being used. These technologically advanced fabrics are made to breathe extremely well, which will keep you cool when it’s hot and wick moisture away from your skin, which will help keep you warm when it’s cold. These layers are made out of two main fabrics: merino wool and synthetic.

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Merino wool

First Lite merino wool layers

Merino wool is my preferred fabric for base layers. In order to understand why you really just need to try the stuff out. I first started looking at merino wool specifically for backpack hunting. Why? Well, on backcountry hunts you don’t really have the luxury of bringing that suitcase full of clothing. This is where merino wool comes in. Merino wool is naturally odor resistant. This is because bacteria have a hard time latching onto its super fine threads. Because of this, you can wear these pieces for long periods of time with a very minimal stink factor. I say minimal because, after 10 days in the field, you yourself will stink, but the stink on the clothing will be very minimal, if not non-existent altogether. Another benefit to merino wool is it retains 80% of its insulation value—even when it is soaking wet. This is a major help when you are either sweating your tail off or get hit with an unexpected downpour. The only downside I have found with merino wool is that it is not the most durable of fabrics. If you want that, then you need to pick synthetic.

Synthetic

Synthetics or polyester also make a great base layer. Layers made of this material are going to be comfortable and will dry very fast—much quicker than merino wool. As I have already pointed out above, these fabrics are also more durable than merino wool. Before using merino wool, I dabbled in the world of synthetic. Right off of the bat, I was impressed. I loved how the material felt on my skin and wondered why I didn’t try this stuff out before. But what’s the downside of synthetic? I found that out after only one evening of glassing during a summer month here in Arizona. A pungent smell kept wafting across my nose out there. My first thought was, “Man, my hunting partner must have forgotten to take a shower or something.” But I was wrong. I was actually smelling myself. The stink factor of synthetics is pretty high. If you are just day hunting from the truck, give this stuff a try. However, if you are planning on heading into the backcountry, I would stick with merino wool.

Insulation

Insulation layers

Believe it or not, it does get cold here in Arizona from time to time so I need a good insulation layer to add to my system. We’ve discussed base layers and how they move moisture away from your skin. An insulation layer is going to not only insulate your body heat, but it is going to help dry out those base layers underneath as they wick that moisture away. Remember, I said this stuff all works together. Insulating layers are going to vary slightly in terms of fabric, but the end goal is the same: it will keep you warm! A lot of jackets will be made of down. Down is super warm, super compressible, and super lightweight. This really comes in handy when you are stuffing that jacket into your pack for the day. It weighs little to nothing and takes up a minimal amount of space in your pack. Other jackets are made of a synthetic blend of sorts. Unlike the stink factor differences I have found in the base layers, I haven’t noticed that with the jackets. Some insulation layers also have a DWR coating applied to the outside of them in order to help keep you dry should you get hit with some rain. This is no substitute for actual rain gear but can help in a pinch. That brings me to the next thing on our list: rain gear.

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Rain gear

First Lite rain gear

The first year I ever went bear hunting, my hunt was “ruined” by rain. I ended up going home early because I simply was not prepared for the weather. I vowed from that point on that I would have rain gear so I didn’t have a repeat of that first year. Fast forward to now and I’ll tell you this: My rain gear layer drifts its way in and out of my pack. I really just go by the weather report. If there is rain in the forecast, it comes with me. If not, I leave it at the truck. While the insulation layer is basically like your mobile sleeping bag, your rain gear is like your mobile tent. If I am on a backpack hunt, I usually always bring rain gear with me. Especially during the months of August and September when monsoons can pop up out of nowhere; I like to be prepared for those. Some folks complain about the noise that comes with having rain gear, but, in my opinion, this is not really important. When it is raining, there is already noise from the rain so that’s not really a concern I have with it. Another concern that many have with rain gear is breathability. This is a valid concern, but I think you can only go so far with this. It makes sense that breathability is limited because it is a hard shell piece. It is made to keep water out, but that also means that it will keep water in. At this moment, it is a necessary evil.

Pants/bottoms

Early morning glassing

As far as downstairs goes, I keep it pretty simple. For underwear, I’ll use a light/midweight merino wool boxer short for the same reasons I use the tops. If it is really cold I will throw on a midweight full-length merino base layer over those followed by my pants. For pants, you can go with either a merino wool pant or synthetic—much like the options for tops. Synthetic is going to be more durable, but also a tad noisier. This could pose a problem when spot and stalking animals with a bow. For that, my favorite pant is a merino wool pant. Not only is it comfortable, but they are dead quiet and perfect for sneaking up on an unaware buck. I use both types of pants and each of them has their place in my system. When it comes to socks, I prefer a merino wool sock. I can wear these for days on end and they are extremely comfortable. I have yet to get a blister wearing these.

See also  .22-250 Remington vs .243 Winchester Ammo Comparison - Ballistics Info & Chart Caliber Ballistics Comparison 07 Dec, 2018 Posted By: Foundry Outdoors The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .22-250 Remington vs .243 Winchester ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .22-250 Remington or .243 Winchester rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .22-250 Remington and .243 Winchester ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance. Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .22-250 Remington Rifle 3790 1620 .243 Winchester Rifle 3180 1950 [Click Here to Shop .22-250 Remington Ammo] [Click Here to Shop .243 Winchester Ammo] VelocityAs illustrated in the chart, .22-250 Remington rounds - on average - achieve a velocity of about 3790 feet per second (fps) while .243 Winchester rounds travel at a velocity of 3180 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .22-250 Remington bullets travel 4.3 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .243 Winchester bullets travel 3.6 times that same speed.Various calibersEnergyFurthermore, the muzzle energy of a .22-250 Remington round averages out to 1620 ft-lb, while a .243 Winchester round averages out to about 1950 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .22-250 Remington round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 1620 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .243 Winchester round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1950 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .22-250 Remington or .243 Winchester cartridge you're looking at purchasing. [Buy .22-250 Remington Ammo] [Buy .243 Winchester Ammo] Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .22-250 Remington and .243 Winchester ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.Foundry Outdoors is your trusted home for buying archery, camping, fishing, hunting, shooting sports, and outdoor gear online.We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.We offer a 100% Authenticity Guarantee on all products sold on our website. Please email us if you have questions about any of our product listings. 6 Comments Justin - May 08, 2020You guys are full of crap. This is misleading Bologna, you know the 45 -70 grain .243 Win destroy the 22 250 in velocity and distance. The range of the 243 also defiles the 22-250 . I wish I could sue you for misleading crap like this. Tyson - May 09, 2020@Justin – i think they are right, what is your source? everything I’m seeing agrees with the above info 22-250 is faster, 243 has more energy. compare PP22250 vs PP2432 for examplePP22250 – 1655 ft lbs, 3680 fps PP243 – 1945 ft lbs, 2960 fps Paul Nelson - Dec 06, 2021Tyson is correct. I shoot a Tikka T3 22-250. Although I load my own for long distance shooting, I trade kinetic energy, stopping power for muzzle velocity. I would not shoot a large game animal at the distance I shoot, although my round is very fast and accurate beyond belief, at distance beyond 500 yards my 85 gr.Nosler round lacks the punch to pierce beyond the shoulder blade. The rounds small weight and lose of it’s kenetic energy just doesn’t hold together upon bone contact. Soft targets see the perform at it best. Paul Nelson - Dec 06, 2021Justin, meant no disrespect. For anyone who takes thier shooting very personal, I have the ultimate book for you. It’s called, Game loads and practical ballistics for the American hunter. Covers all basic civilian calibers from .17 varsity to .375 H&H. Cover drop at 100 yard intervals, temperature effect on performance, which powders and primers are best for your caliber and more. Took the author 25 yrs to compile the data. Excellent book for any shooters library. The author is Bob Hagel, writer for many outdoors and firearm publications. Also gives you creditable facts when challenged by another shooter. Bradley - Nov 16, 2022@Paul Nelson What’s the barrel twist rate in your Tikka T3 22-250? I’ve been checking some ballistic value data and the info would suggest that a long bullet like the 85 gr Nosler you use would require 1:9 or faster. But the experiment always outweighs the theory! That’s why I’m looking at a Browning X-Bolt with 22 in barrel and 1:9 twist rate. It’s possibly on the high side for smaller and lighter projectiles but perfect for the longer heavier ones. Greg - May 23, 2024I agree with the first guy to comment…while if what you shoot is what you can find at the store, yeah, the 22-250 is way faster….If you handload….well, my 243 will be right with the 250 in terms of velocity with a bigger heavier bullet. Want a good comparison, 22-250 with a 40 gr. Around 4000-4100, 243 with a 55-58gr at around 3900-4000. 22-250 with a 55gr at around 3600-3700 vs my go to varmint load in my 243 with a 70 gr at a little under 3600. Yeah, the 243 wins Leave a commentComments have to be approved before showing up Your Name * Your Email * Your Comment * Post Comment

My layering system

Here is my basic layering system that gets me through 95% of the year. I say 95% because there might be a time later in the season where I add an extra layer of clothing up top, which will usually be a fleece type layer for added warmth.

Top

  • First Lite Wick (lightweight base layer)
  • First Lite Kiln (midweight base layer)
  • First Lite Uncompahgre Puffy (insulation)
  • First Lite Vapor Stormlight (rain gear)

Bottom

  • First Lite Red Desert Boxers
  • First Lite Corrugate Guide Pants (nylon) or First Lite Obsidians (merino wool)
  • First Lite Boundary Stormtight (rain gear)
  • First Lite Mountain Compression Socks

In closing

Checking for elk sign

If you were like me and are sitting on the fence with this stuff, I hope this article points you in the right direction. Layering systems might differ slightly from climate to climate, but the foundation remains. Nowadays, having a layering system is an absolute must for me and, truth be told, I won’t do it any other way. Since I have changed my ways, I have never been more comfortable out in the field. Because of that, I find myself spending way more time in the field—no matter the conditions. This transfers into more animals spotted, which inevitably leads to more opportunities to fill that tag.

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