What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

The shelf life of our products is generally based on the specified best before date (“Bäst före” in Swedish). As with all foodstuffs, the best before date is to be understood as meaning that we guarantee the perfect condition of the goods up to this date if stored appropriately. It does not state that the goods are automatically spoiled after this date.

In principle, the shelf life of meat depends on the temperatures and fluctuations in temperature the meat is exposed to. The higher the storage temperature and the more temperature fluctuations, the shorter the meat will stay in perfect condition. Frozen meat may have a best before date of up to a year printed on the packaging. That date assumes that the meat is kept at -18° C during that whole time. This is of course impossible for us to guarantee when we ship the meat over longer distances using a courier. The meat will most likely arrive to your home at a temperature a few degrees below freezing.

Therefore, after you received your meat, we recommend that you store it in a fridge at maximum 4° C and consume it within five days unless you choose to refreeze it.

In general, if your meat was frozen, we recommend not to re-freeze it. However, basically nothing speaks against refreezing, especially if the food has to be heated up before consumption. The nutrient and vitamin content may suffer slightly, but refreezing is more hygienic than storing it in the refrigerator at temperatures above 0° C.

Our own tests also show that you can assume that the great taste of the meat will not be affected by refreezing. Wild game meat is of such high quality that the theoretical reduction in quality is practically unnoticed.

If you want to cook the meat after its been frozen, it is best to remove it from the freezer 1-2 days in advance and place it in the refrigerator.

In the unlikely event that you have forgotten to take your meat out of the freezer, you can defrost it more quickly in water. Check whether the packaging is still properly vacuumed. If this is the case, you can place the meat, packaging and all, in a container of cold water. This way, a the meat thaws faster. If the packaging is no longer vacuumed, then you can NOT use this method.

Damages to agriculture across Texas as a result of feral swine problems can add up quickly in areas where the unwanted animals are multiplying at alarming rates. From crop losses, fence damages, contamination of water sources and the potential for the spread of disease, farmers and ranchers are concerned about the escalating problems feral swine pose and the growing costs of dealing with the problem.

But a few Texas property owners are discovering that, like turning lemons into lemonade, feral swine problems can be turned inside out to become a source of non-traditional farm or ranch income.

Leave it to the entrepreneurial spirit of Americans, especially Texans, who can see an opportunity even when one doesn’t seem to exist.

(See related story: Feral hog numbers explode in US and worldwide)

In spite of all the well deserved bad press feral swine have accumulated over the years, there are two reasons that a few (and growing number of) Texans view the wild and wooly creatures in a positive light. The first would be those who either enjoy hunting the creatures or those who accept payment to allow others to hunt them on their property.

Believe it or not, some exotic hunting ranches in Texas charge as much as $900 to target and shoot a large ‘wild boar’. On the low end, hunters pay around $120 to hunt large wild hogs on hunting leases.

The second group of wild swine fans in Texas consists of wild/exotic meat processors and their many customers, mostly from Europe, who favor wild boar meat and often consider it a delicacy. One such “natural” meat company, Frontier Meats of Ft. Worth, markets their popular wild boar bacon to both a growing domestic and foreign buyer base.

In both cases, and in most instances, these ‘wild boars’ are what most of us call feral hogs trapped live on farms and ranches all across Texas and held in specially designed holding pens and sold to buyers for cash.

According to a comprehensive study conducted by a number of academic and government agencies, traditionally the wild boar is a game animal hunted and served in the Northern and Eastern European countries. A taste for this meat remains in Europe. Therefore, Europe is a targeted market for the distribution and sale of Texas feral swine meat.

In the United States, wild boar meat is viewed as an exotic meat served at game meat restaurants, or as a source meat for sausage and jerky products. Therefore, meat brokers catering to the game meat restaurant trade and producers who make a further processed added value meat product are targets for sales efforts.

Feral hog opportunity

A fledgling marketing opportunity also exists in the United States. Direct marketing of wild boar meats through select grocery store chains is being tried in a few test markets to gauge the interest for direct sale of individually packaged branded name wild boar meat.

The laboratory testing of the meat derived from the Texas feral swine indicates that on average it tends to carry less fat than normal domestic swine, making the nutritional information labels look more inviting to a health conscious consumer. By using large slaughter and cutting plants such as Frontier Meats in North Texas and Southern Wild Game in Devine (South Texas), the quality of the meat and the cuts can be monitored more closely and presented to the customer in a pleasing format that makes the product more appealing to a final consumer.

It’s interesting to note that wild game meat processors who market wild swine meat are subject to both stringent USDA and European Union rules and inspections.

As far as how profitable trapping feral swine can be for property owners, the latest available numbers indicate the average price per pound for live animals ranges greatly from 20 cents a pound for animals under 100 pounds to as much as 60 cents a pound for larger swine. If the animal is being purchased by an exotic game ranch for hunting purposes, only boars are allowed by state law. And it should be noted that the Texas Animal health Commission (TAHC) requires all holding pens to meet strict guidelines to prevent feral swine from escaping and/or mixing with domestic swine, and strict record keeping is required on all trapped feral swine. Only disease free animals can be sold.

Already, nearly fifty farms and ranches have received permits for TAHC approved holding pens, so it appears that many farms and ranches are beginning to embrace the idea of turning lemons into lemonade—or in this case, wild swine into bacon and sausage.

For more information about approved holding pen requirements, click here.

With an effective range of over half a mile, the 338 Lapua Magnum and 338 Winchester Magnum are two centerfire rifle cartridges that excel at long range shooting.

The 338 Lapua Mag is the rifle cartridge of choice for military snipers as it was developed to punch through body armor at 1,000 yards and bridges the gap between the 300 Win Mag and the 50 BMG.

The 338 Win Mag was part of the belted-magnum cartridge craze in the late 50’s and early 60’s and has been the go-to ammo of choice for dangerous game hunters across North America.

Capable of ethically harvesting any thin-skinned game animal on the planet, it is the preferred cartridge in Alaksa to protect yourself against belligerent grizzly bears or other large game. But which of these two magnum cartridges is the best option for your new medium bore bolt-action rifle?

For most non-competitive shooters, the 338 Win Mag will be more than enough cartridge to suit your needs while the 338 Lapua is most at home on the firing line for 1,000+ yard shooting competitions.

In this article, we will examine the advantages and disadvantages of the 338 Lapua and 338 Win Mag to help you understand which will work best for your needs.

What’s the Difference Between 338 Lapua and 338 Win Mag?

The 338 Lapua and 338 Win Mag are two centerfire magnum rifle cartridges that fire the same 0.338” diameter bullets. Although both rifle cartridges fire the same caliber bullets, this is where the similarities between the two ends.

One major difference between the two is the design of the cartridge case. The 338 Win Mag utilizes a belted-magnum design that became popular during the magnum era of the late 1950’s and was marketed for big game hunters while the 338 Lapua uses a non-belted case and was designed specifically for military use.

The 338 Win Mag was also designed to fit into a long action like a 30-06 Springfield, while the 338 Lapua requires a magnum action as it is a longer, beefier round.

Both 338 magnum cartridges excel at long range accuracy and precision, you will not find the 338 Win Mag on the firing line of a 1,000-yard competition that is dominated by 6.5 Creedmoor, 300 Win Mag, and 338 Lapua.

But why is that?

The reason is because the 338 Win Mag is primarily a sporting cartridge while the 338 Lapua is long range precision cartridge. Each have their own roles that they fill admirably and understanding the difference is critical to making the right choice for your next rifle.

In the following sections, we will break down the differences between these 338-caliber magnums so that you can more clearly understand the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Cartridge Specs

When evaluating two big game hunting cartridges, it’s a good idea to analyze the cartridge specs to gain more knowledge of each.

The first, and most obvious, similarity is that both the 338 Lapua Magnum and 338 Winchester Magnum fire the same 0.338” diameter projectiles. However, this is where the similarities end.

One major difference is the case length of both rifle cartridges. The 338 Lapua Magnum has a case length of 2.724” and overall length of 3.681” compared to 2.50” and 3.34”, respectively, for the 338 Win Mag. This difference in case length directly affects case capacity.

The 338 Lapua is well-known for having a cavernous cartridge case. With a case capacity of 114.2 gr, the 338 Lapua can hold over 30% more powder than the 338 Win Mag at 86 gr. This added powder capacity is what allows the 338 Lapua to fire heavier bullets with a higher ballistic coefficient than the 338 Win Mag.

Another difference is the type of rifle action that both cartridges are fired from. With its longer overall length, the 338 Lapua sits firmly in a heavier and stronger magnum action, while the 338 Win Mag is short enough to fit into a long action rifle like the 30-06 Springfield and 300 Win Mag.

At the time of writing, SAAMI has not proofed the 338 Lapua and does not have an established max pressure for the round. To complicate matters, Lapua and the CIP have been somewhat ambivalent about the max pressure for the cartridge.

There is some scholarly debate as to the max pressure for the 338 Lapua, but the lower limits (and therefore safer) suggest 420 MPa (60,916 PSI). The max pressure for 338 Winchester Magnum is 64,000 PSI.

The 338 Lapua is an overall larger case and can fire heavier bullets, and although those projectiles perform extremely well at long distance shooting, there is a price to be paid for this enhanced downrange performance.

The additional case capacity afforded to the 338 Lapua has a negative effect on felt recoil and barrel life when compared to the 338 Win Mag.

Recoil

Recoil is the energy directed towards the shooter when a cartridge is fired from a firearm. For experienced hunters or marksmen, recoil will be a non-issue. However, for less experienced shooters or those who are recoil sensitive, less felt recoil will be preferred.

Lower recoil will also allow shooters to get their sights back on target quicker for follow-up shots. In contrast, heavy recoil can cause shooters to flinch before they pull the trigger, and during long shooting sessions shoulder fatigue can become an issue.

Both magnum cartridges are well known for having stout recoil. The 338 Lapua has so much felt recoil that most manufacturers install a muzzle brake at the factory to help reduce the amount of pounding the shooter’s shoulder receives.

The 338 Win Mag is no slouch when it comes to recoil either. However, this is exacerbated by the fact that most rifles chambered in 338 Win Mag are lighter to make them easier to carry on long hunts.

For this recoil comparison, we will use the Savage 110 Brush Hunter (7.4 lbs) as our 338 Win Mag rifle and the Barrett MRAD (14.5 lbs) for our 338 Lapua Magnum. This comparison will not include the added weight of a scope or bipod as this adds too many variables to the equation.

For a 225 grain Nosler Accubond traveling at 2700 fps, the 300 Win Mag shooter will experience 38 ft-lbs of recoil energy. Now for the 338 Lapua we will consider the 250 grain Nosler Accubond traveling at 2850 fps, which will slap the shoulder at 32 ft-lbs for force.

Now you might look at this and say that the 338 Lapua has lower recoil but note that the rifle is virtually twice as heavy. If we fire the same 338 Win Mag round out of the Barrett the felt recoil would be 20 ft-lbs.

This showcases the extremely different roles that each round serves and the rifles that are used to fit that role.

Barrel Life

Magnum cartridges are notorious for being tough on barrels. Although all that case capacity is great for achieving ridiculous muzzle energy and velocity, it is also will erode the rifling at the chamber throat considerably faster.

Take for example the 300 Remington Ultra Mag (300 RUM) that is reported to burn out a barrel at or below 1000 rounds.

There is a lot of controversy surrounding barrel life and how many rounds a particular barrel can endure before downrange accuracy begins to suffer. One of the major factors that affects this is the powder charge.

If you’re reloading close to max pressure for either round, your barrel will have a shorter lifespan than someone loading milder powder charges.

This is critically important for precision rifle shooters who often engage in extra long range shooting competitions that require the utmost pinnacle of accuracy. These shooters will maintain meticulous records to determine when their barrel is “shot out”, as they will typically see changes in point of impact or their groups opening up when shooting long distance.

For hunters, it’s less likely that you will ever shoot enough to wear out a barrel for either cartridge.

Although it’s difficult to name a specific round count that barrel is good for, the 338 Lapua Mag will generally burn out a barrel faster than the 338 Win Mag as the Lapua round has 30% more case capacity.

Trajectory

Trajectory is how we quantify a bullet’s flight path as it travels downrange measured in inches of bullet drop.

Obviously, a flatter shooting cartridge is preferred for shooting longer ranges, as a shooter will require fewer adjustments to their optics to compensate for bullet drop. Having a flatter trajectory also means that a cartridge will be more forgiving of ranging mistakes.

For this comparison, we will consider the Hornady 250 gr Match 338 Lapua ammo traveling at 2900 fps and Hornady 230 gr ELD-X Precision Hunter ammo screaming out of the muzzle at 2810 fps for 338 Win Mag.

As the 338 Lapua has a higher muzzle velocity, it will reach the intended target faster and thereby be affected by gravity less than the 338 Win Mag.

At 500 yards, both projectiles have almost identical trajectories with the 338 Lapua only being slightly better at -40” of bullet drop compared to -43” for the Winchester Magnum.

However, the 1,000-yard line is what separates the marksmen from the plinkers, coincidentally this is where the 338 Lapua starts to pull away from the 338 Win Mag. At 1,000 yards, the 338 Lapua has experienced -211” of bullet drop compared to -231” for the 338 Win Mag.

Although both the 338 Lapua and the 338 Win Mag have excellent for long range shooting, the 338 Lapua has the flatter trajectory overall.

Ballistic Coefficient

Ballistic coefficient (BC) is a measure of how well a bullet resists wind drift and air resistance. Put another way, it’s a numeric representation of how aerodynamic a bullet is. A high BC is preferred as this means the bullet will buck the wind easier.

Generally, heavier bullets will have a higher BC as it takes more force to disrupt the flight of a heavier bullet than a lighter one. Ballistic coefficient varies from bullet to bullet based on design, weight, and other factors that are beyond the scope of this article.

Since the 338 Lapua can fire heavier projectiles than the 338 Win Mag, the Lapua round will generally have a higher BC.

For example, a 300 grain Nosler Custom Competition 338 Lapua round will have a BC of 0.8 compared to a 225 gr Nosler Expansion Tip for 338 Win Mag with a BC of 0.611.

Although ballistic coefficient will vary between bullets, in general the 338 Lapua will have a higher SD than 338 Win Mag.

Sectional Density

Sectional Density (SD) is the measure of how well a bullet penetrates a target. This is extremely important when hunting big game, as you need a bullet that can punch through thick hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter. The higher the SD the deeper the bullet will penetrate into the target. This is a simplified view of penetration as there are other factors to consider, such as bullet expansion and velocity.

Let’s look at the Hornady Precision Hunter line for an apples-to-apples comparison.

The 270 gr ELD-X for 338 Lapua has a SD of 0.338 while the 230 gr ELD-X for 338 Win Mag has a SD of 0.288.

As the 338 Lapua typically has a higher muzzle velocity than the 338 Winchester Magnum, it will often have the higher SD.

Hunting

Determining the superior round for hunting has been debated ad nauseum in online forums, around campfires, and at gun store counters. There are clear merits to both the 338 Lapua and Winchester Magnum in terms of hunting efficacy.

However, the 338 Win Mag is the better choice in terms of hunting large game. I know a lot of Lapua fans are lighting their torches and sharpening the pitchforks but let me explain why.

The first reason is rifle design.

Generally, 338 Win Mag rifles are lighter and easier to carry into deep brush. This is why so many Alaskan guides carry them as a deterrent to dangerous game, it’s a light-weight rifle that packs a massive punch.

Would a 338 Lapua be good against bears? Absolutely. But carrying a rifle weighting 12+ lbs is a lot more difficult than carrying one that is 7 lbs. Rifles for 338 Lapua were intentionally built heavier to handle the massive strain the cartridge puts on the rifle action and to reduce felt recoil.

All that weight might be perfectly fine for long distance shooting from a bench, but it’s not so helpful when you’re carrying it miles on end. In this situation, having a lighter and maneuverable rifle is preferred to having one that is bulkier, longer, and harder to carry.

The second reason is cost.

Many big game hunters will scoff at the concept of cost, stating that ammo expenditures are minimal when only going through a few boxes a year. And I’d agree with that.

However, if I told you that you could get identical performance for a lower cost, I’m guessing most of my readers would take that deal. I know I would!

When comparing the same brand of ammo, the 338 Win Mag will almost always be the lower cost option.

And let’s not forget the rifle cost as well. Your regular run of the mill bolt action rifle from Savage, Weatherby, Sako, or Ruger for 338 Win Mag will typically cost you under $1,000. But you should expect to spend no less than $2,000 for a rifle chambered in 338 Lapua.

The third and final reason, is terminal ballistics.

Fans of the 338 Lapua will be at the ready to tell me that the 338 has better terminal ballistics than the Win Mag, and they are correct in this.

But will that big game animal be able to tell the difference? I highly doubt it.

The 338 Lapua is simply more than you need for large game across North American.

Now if you fancy flying across the pond to take on The Big 5 in Africa, then the 338 Lapua would be the better option. For those extra-large dangerous game animals, you’ll want as much stopping power as you can get and the 338 Lapua can deliver that for you.

For North America, 338 Win Mag is more than enough. For the dangerous game of Africa, 338 Lapua is a suitable choice (though most will use 375 H&H Magnum, 416 Rem Mag, or 458 Lott).

Ammo and Rifle Availability/Cost

As mentioned previously in the Hunting section, the 338 Win Mag is the better option when it comes to cost for both rifles and ammo.

Ammo for the 338 Win Mag runs around $4-6/round depending on the manufacturer and grade. Match ammo and premium hunting ammo will typically garner a higher price than bulk practice ammo.

For 338 Lapua, you should expect to generally pay around $5/round for the cheap stuff and upwards of $10/round for hunting and match grade ammo.

In terms of availability, as the 338 Lapua is a military round, it is a bit more plentiful than 338 Win Mag. However, all of the major manufacturers like Hornady, Federal, Remington, and Nosler make ammo for both calibers.

Although ammo might be a bit easier to find for 338 Lapua, there are considerably more varieties and affordable rifle options for 338 Win Mag since it is a hunting round. Weatherby, Remington, Savage, Ruger, and Sako all make bolt-action rifles for 338 Win Mag that can be had for under $1,000.

Good luck finding a 338 Lapua rifle for less than $2000 out the door!

As the 338 Lapua is a more powerful round, it required reinforcement in the action to handle the pressures and recoil that the cartridge can produce. This requires more material and therefore increases cost. Furthermore, most Lapua rifles are accurized by a gunsmith as the round is designed to be shot at long range. This also drives up the price.

There are fewer manufactures who offer rifles in 338 Lapua but that number is growing. The major players in terms of 338 Lapua rifles would be Barrett, Accuracy International, GA Precision, Ruger, and Savage.

Reloading

Reloading is one way to reduce the overall cost per round of your ammo. Furthermore, reloading allows you to tailor your ammo to your individual rifle, allowing you to achieve sub-MOA results without eating the cost that match grade ammo commands.

Both of these 338 rifle cartridges will devour powder, so make sure that you’re ordering in bulk to ensure you get the best price.

Although the 338 Lapua and 338 Win Mag fire the same caliber bullets, there isn’t as much overlap in the grain weights that they use when compared to other cartridges like the 308 Winchester and 300 Win Mag. The 338 Lapua typically fires bullets between 250 and 300 grains while 338 Win Mag can fire between 200 and 275 grains, with 225 grain bullets being the most popular.

Ballistics: 338 Win Mag vs 338 Lapua

Our team here at Ammo.com has spent countless hours scouring the Internet to bring you extremely comprehensive ballistics tables for both calibers. These tables will compare bullet weight to muzzle velocity, muzzle energy, and trajectory.

338 Win Mag Ballistics

338 Lapua Ballistics

A Brief History of 338 Winchester Magnum

The 338 Winchester Magnum was introduced in 1958 by the Winchester Repeating Arms company.

The 338 Win Mag is a belted magnum cartridge that draws its heritage from the 375 H&H Magnum round that was also used in the development of the 264 and 458 Winchester Magnum cartridges released in the same year.

The introduction of the 338 Win Mag sparked the “Magnum Era” in terms of cartridge design, and the other bullet manufacturers were not about to let Winchester go unchallenged. Weatherby was quick to introduce the 340 Weatherby Magnum as a direct competitor to the 338 Win Mag, but it was Remington’s release of the 7mm Rem Mag that made the biggest splash and prompted the development of the 300 Win Mag in 1962.

Although the 338 Win Mag was marketed to big game hunters as a medium bore cartridge capable of taking on grizzlies, it was not immediately a commercial success. However, as time passed it has become the top choice for Alaskan hunting guides working in bear country.

Capable of pushing a 225-grain bullet at 2,800 fps with 3,918 ft-lbs of energy, the 338 Win Mag is a heavy hitting cartridge capable of taking down any game animal on the planet.

A Brief History of 338 Lapua Magnum: The 50 BMG Lite

Development of the 338 Lapua Mag began in 1983 by US-based company, Research Armament Industries (RAI). Their goal was to create a cartridge that bridged the gap between the 300 Winchester Magnum and the 50 BMG.

The design specification required that the cartridge be able to penetrate 5 layers of military-grade body armor at 1000 meters and fire a 0.338” diameter bullet for its ideal sectional density and ballistic coefficient. The targeted muzzle velocity to meet these goals was 3,000 fps.

Initial designs for the 338 Lapua Magnum utilized the 416 Rigby as a parent case, simply necking it down to accept a 250 grain Hornady A-MAX bullet. Sadly, the 416 Rigby case was not strong enough to withstand the pressures needed to achieve RAI’s ballistic goals.

By 1984, RAI was under pressure from the military to finish their work and in desperation they reached out to the Finnish ammo company, Lapua, for assistance. Straddled with debt, RAI had to drop out of the program, and this left the fate of the new cartridge in the hands of the engineers at Lapua.

The ballistics team at Lapua joined forces with Sako and Accuracy International to work on redesigning the 416/338 case so that it could handle 60,000 psi of pressure.

The final case design was an extremely pressure resistant that was able to achieve velocities just short of the initial 3,000 fps goal. The decision was also made to depart from Hornady bullets, utilizing a new bullet design instead, the LockBase B408 FMJ.

The finalized 338 Lapua Magnum cartridge submitted and accepted by the CIP (the European version of SAAMI) in 1989 and became a NATO cartridge shortly thereafter.

NATO standard 338 Lapua Mag ammo fires a 250-grain bullet with a muzzle velocity of 3000 fps and muzzle energy of 4892 ft-lbs.

Precision rifle shooters who like to air it out to 1000 yards or more will appreciate the 338’s ability to easily remain supersonic past 1400 yards and maintain MOA levels of accuracy. While the 338 Lapua has a trajectory that would make any 6.5 Creedmoor or 300 Win Mag shooter green with.

The 338 Lapua Mag is a powerhouse of a round and will be competing with the 50 BMG for years to come.

Final Shots: 338 Lapua vs 338 Win Mag

The 338 Lapua and 338 Win Mag are both extremely hard-hitting rifle cartridges that have an insane effective range of over half a mile. They have proven themselves countless times in the woods, the battlefield, and on the firing line at precision rifle competitions.

The 338 Lapua is a round specifically designed with military snipers in mind. It has an incredibly flat trajectory and cut its teeth in the deserts of the Afghanistan during Operation Enduring Freedom. Although the Lapua has seen most of its action overseas, it is becoming more popular on the civilian market for long range shooting competitors who want to reach out past 1,000 yards.

The 338 Winchester Magnum has proven itself against big game animals for over half a century and is still going strong. It’s the favored cartridge of Alaskan hunting guides for its persuasive power against disgruntled grizzly bears and angry bull moose. Bolt-action rifles for 338 Win Mag are light and maneuverable, making them ideal for long stalks or in a tree stand.

Although the 338 Lapua has superior external ballistics, most civilian shooters will be well served by the 338 Win Mag due to its lower overall cost and an effective range well outside ethical hunting distances. This is not to say that you shouldn’t get a 338 Lapua if you can afford it or if it’s something that you’ve always wanted. The Second Amendment ensures this right, and you should use it every chance you get.

We asked a firearms expert with over thirty years of experience to pick the top five semiautomatic pistols. Yes, here we go again with another Top 5 gun list. Having previously done one on the Top 5 9mm Pistols, 5 Best Sig Sauer Guns, 5 Best CCW Guns, and plenty more.

Top Five Semiautomatic Pistols on the Planet

Now it’s time to get to one of the most popular gun debates out there. We’re going to talk about what I consider to be the five best Semiautomatic Pistols regardless of size, brand, or specific caliber.

M1911/M1911-A1 .45 ACP

Okay, y’all know this one had to make the list. Besides belonging on this Top 5 List, it’s also one of the three most enduring inventions of the legendary gunmaker John Moses Browning. After passing a 6,000 round torture test, it became the first semiautomatic pistol to be adopted by the U.S. Armed Forces as well as the most powerful sidearm to ever become standard issue to a nation’s military.

It served faithfully in that role for nearly 75 years, and even though the M1911 was officially replaced in that role by the next gun on the list, it remains wildly popular with gun enthusiasts to this day, more than 100 years since its invention. And it’s one of my sentimental favorites as well; my very first firearms purchase was a Springfield Armory M1911-A1, and I’m quite fond of both my Springfield Mil-Spec and my genuine WWI-vintage Colt.

Beretta 92FS/M9 9mm

As previously indicated, this was the gun that had the daunting task that of succeeding the M1911 as the official sidearm of the U.S. military, and in 1984 the Beretta 92F/M9 did precisely that, in turn fulfilling the role for 33 years — saw combat in Panama, Iraq, and Afghanistan along the way — before giving way to the SIG M17. This pistol gained further credibility after being adopted by LAPD and the L.A. Sheriff’s Department as well as numerous other domestic law enforcement agencies. In retrospect, that’s not surprising in light of the fact that Beretta is the world’s oldest industrial firm of any kind, dating back to 1526, so you gotta figure they know what they’re doing.

What’s more, two renowned firearms industry experts who are both known as hardcore M1911 aficionados, Ken Hackathorn and gunsmith Bill Wilson, have gone on record lavishing praise on the Beretta, with the former deeming it “the most reliable handgun I ever used” and the latter stating that “I shoot it just as well as the 1911.”

From a personal standpoint, as I’ve written several times before, the Beretta 92 was the very first pistol I fell in love with – strictly platonically speaking of course – back at the tender age of 14.

Browning Hi-Power P-35 9mm

Another one of John Browning’s top three most enduring inventions (the third being the M2 “Ma Deuce” .50 caliber machine gun). Though alas, Mr. Browning passed away in 1926 before this particular project was perfected, so the proverbial torch was passed on to Belgian gun designer Monsieur Dieudonné Saive, who saw the pistol through to completion in 1935, hence the P-35 designation. With its 13 + 1 standard ammo capacity, the BHP was the first of the “Wondernines,” i.e. high-capacity double-stack 9mm autoloaders; indeed, the “Hi-Power” designation refers to the ammunition capacity and not the ballistic power of the caliber in which the pistol was chambered.

The “Grande Puissance” spent several decades as the most widely used military, police, and counterterrorist pistol in the world, with its list of users including the elite British Special Air Service (SAS) and the FBI Hostage Rescue Team (HRT). That’s credentials!

I purchased my own 1967 vintage BHP as a birthday present to myself back in 2007. With roughly 4,000 rounds through it, it’s been a fine shooter.

Glock 17 9mm

Here we go again. The most reliable and durable handgun ever made: a service life in excess of 250,000 rounds; going 10,000 jam-free rounds without a cleaning; Tenifer finish that’s more rust-resistant than stainless steel; continuing to function after being dropped out of a helicopter at an altitude of 400 feet; working after being frozen in a solid block of ice, etc. The pistol that, upon its debut in 1982, established the credibility of polymer-framed and striker-fired pistols and paved the way for their eventual dominance of the U.S. private citizen and law enforcement market.

My own Glock 17 has given me superb performance over the course of 19 years and 20,000 rounds. ‘Nuff said.

Ruger Standard .22 LR

Hey, I had to include at least one rimfire pistol on the list for the sake of “equal time,” right?

The Ruger Standard is to .22 Long Rifle (LR) rimfire semiauto pistols what the M1911 and Browning Hi-Power 9mm are to centerfire semiautomatic combat handguns, i.e. the gold standard against which all competing makes & models must be judged. Back in 1949, this pistol launched the careers of the late great Bill Ruger (1916-2002) and Alex Sturm (1923-1951) and their eponymous Sturm, Ruger & Co, which is now one of the giants of the American firearms industry.

Like the 1911 and BHP, M1911 and the BHP, the Ruger .22 autopistol has proven itself highly adaptable through the decades, spawning many variants and lending itself to a myriad of customizations.

And this gun hasn’t served as a mere plinker and paper-puncher either: suppressed (“silenced”) editions of the pistol were actually used by U.S. Army Special Forces AKA “Green Berets” for stealthy kills against Viet Cong and North Vietnamese Army (NVA) sentries during the Vietnam War.

Shockingly, this is the only pistol on the list which I don’t own! That said, I recently did a live-fire range review of the current and most refined variant, the Ruger Mk IV, and found it to be a very pleasant experience.

Hit Or Miss?

Okay, agree or disagree? For any fans of SIG Sauer pistols, Smith & Wesson auto pistols, the CZ-75 (that one just barely missed the cut, to be honest), Heckler & Koch (HK), Walther, etc. go ahead and unleash your rage at us in the Comments section.

Bonus: Glock Gun Photo Essay

MORE: The F-35 Now Comes in Beast Mode

MORE: Why the U.S. Navy Tried to Sink Their Own Aircraft Carrier

Expert Author Biography: Christian D. Orr has 33 years of shooting experience, starting at the tender age of 14. His marksmanship accomplishments include: the Air Force Small Arms Ribbon w/one device (for M16A2 rifle and M9 pistol); Pistol Expert Ratings from U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), Immigration & Customs Enforcement (ICE), and the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center (FLETC) Criminal Investigator Training Program (CITP); multiple medals and trophies via the Glock Sport Shooting Foundation (GSSF) and the Nevada Police & Fires Games (NPAF). Chris has been an NRA Certified Basic Pistol Instructor since 2011. In his spare time, he enjoys (besides shooting, obviously) dining out, cigars, Irish and British pubs, travel, USC Trojans college football, and Washington DC professional sports.

All zones of the Fortymile Caribou hunts are subject to openings and closings on short notice. Call the Fortymile hotline at (907) 267-2310 for information before departing for the field.

Fortymile Caribou Hotline (907) 267-2310

Fortymile Caribou Zones

Zone 1

Access in these portions of Units 20B and 25C is generally via Chena Hot Springs Road and the Steese Highway.

The Zone 1 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 1 Description

Unit 20B, that portion within the Chatanika River drainage north and east of the Steese Highway, and that portion south and east of the Steese Highway, except the Middle (East) Fork of the Chena River drainage upstream from and including the Teuchet Creek drainage and except the Salcha River drainage.

Unit 25C, that portion east of the east bank of the mainstem of Preacher Creek to its confluence with American Creek, then east of the east bank of American Creek, excluding that portion within the drainage of the south fork of Birch Creek and excluding that portion within the Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve.

Zone 2

Access is difficult. Hunters generally fly in or boat up the Goodpaster or Salcha Rivers.

The Zone 2 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 2 Description

Unit 20B, that portion south and east of the Steese Highway within the Middle (East) Fork of the Chena River drainage upstream from and including the Teuchet Creek drainage and the Salcha River drainage.

Unit 20D, that portion north of the south bank of the Tanana River.

Unit 20E, that portion within the Charley River drainage, the Seventymile River drainage upstream from and including the Granite Creek drainage, the North Fork Fortymile River drainage upstream from, but not including the Champion Creek drainage, the Middle Fork Fortymile River drainage upstream from and including the Joseph Creek drainage, the Mosquito Fork of the Fortymile River drainage upstream from and including the Wolf Creek drainage, and the drainages flowing into the Yukon River downstream from the confluence of the Seventymile and Yukon Rivers.

Unit 25C, that portion within the drainage of South Fork Birch Creek and that portion within the Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve.

Zone 3

Access is generally via the Taylor Highway and the Fortymile River and its tributaries.

The Zone 3 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 3 Description

Zone 3; Unit 20E, remainder (the road and trail accessible portion of the herd’s range in the vicinity of the Taylor Highway).

Zone 4

Access in these portions of Units 20B, 20F and 25C is generally via the Elliott and Dalton Highways.

The Zone 4 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 4 Description

Unit 20B and Unit 20F those portions north and west of the Steese Highway, north and east of the Elliott Highway to its intersection with the Dalton Highway, then east of the Dalton Highway and south of the Yukon River, excluding the Chatanika River drainage.

Unit 25C, that portion west of the east bank of the mainstem of Preacher Creek to its confluence with American Creek, then west of the east bank of American Creek.

Have additional questions?

Please visit the FAQs for Hunting Moose and/or Caribou in Fortymile Country.

In bow hunting, weeks or months of preparation come down to a single moment. To capitalize on your opportunities, your body must be ready. Picking the right workouts can make the difference between a successful hunt and heading home empty-handed.

Preparing your body is just as important, if not more so, than picking the right gear and finding the perfect spot. Training builds trust in your physical capabilities, which gives you confidence heading into the backcountry.

This article will arm you with the knowledge you need to get ready for hunting season. You’ll learn which fitness qualities are important for an archer, and how to train them. Plus, you’ll we’ll share several of the best exercises that’ll make you a better bowhunter. Let’s start by looking at the muscles needed for shooting a bow.

What Muscles Are Used in Bow Hunting?

A bowhunter’s legs must be strong enough to carry them great distances, which means they have to have endurance as well. The arm, shoulder, core, and back muscles all have to be strong enough to draw and aim the bow. Hunting is a full-body activity that requires strength and endurance.

The entire leg is engaged during hikes for backcountry hunting. From the quadriceps running down the front of your thigh, to the hamstrings on the back, powerful glute muscles above those, and your calves running down the backs of your lower legs. They’re all involved in hiking and trekking in the wilderness.

To handle your bow specifically, your back muscles need to be strong. The latissimus dorsi, rhomboids, teres major, and trapezius help you draw the string. Your biceps, triceps, and deltoids help you draw and hold the bow in place.

And to the surprise of many, your core muscles are also used in archery, including the obliques, which run down either side of your torso. These muscles help you turn and stabilize your spine when shooting.

As you can see, bow hunting is a full-body workout. From draw strength to leg endurance, high-performance bow hunters train year-round to get their entire bodies and mind ready for the season.

Is Archery a Full-Body Workout?

While bowhunting in the backcountry is a full-body workout, archery is more specific. You don’t really need your legs to shoot a bow. Your arms, back, and shoulders do almost all of the work. To be a great archer you need to be strong enough to draw your bow and hold it steady.

Consider this: you can probably shoot a bow just as well from a seated position as you can while standing. Plus, you might not have the luxury of shooting from a standing position while hunting.

For that reason, it’s important to incorporate archery-specific exercises into your workout routine. While you’ll need cardio and leg exercises for hunting in general, bowhunters and archers alike need to carve out space in their workout to strengthen the arms, shoulders, and back muscles.

3 Pre-Season Workouts for Bow Hunters

Hunting — and bowhunting in particular — places unusual demands on muscles we don’t typically use on a day-to-day basis. That’s why training needs to be specific to the needs in the field. We’ve created a specialized program that focuses on creating strength and mobility for carrying a pack and bow across miles of rugged terrain as well as for drawing and holding your bow steady. In the rest of this article, we’ve made 3 of our pre-season workouts available so you can get a better idea of what MTNTOUGH training is all about. While these are just a small sliver of what’s inside, you’ll at least be able to understand how an entire program will make you physically and mentally tougher for hunting season.

If you can get through these workouts one to two times ahead of the season, you’re going to be way ahead of the curve when you head to the hills with your bow. To build trust in your body, you need to build resilience in key areas.

For example, the hips and shoulders. The hips support your legs and help you cover miles of rugged terrain. Your shoulders allow you to draw a bow and aim with unwavering accuracy. On top of that, you need to incorporate strength training and cardio into your routine.

Workout #1: Hip Health Workout

This hip workout combines cardiovascular conditioning on the rower, followed by resisted hip movements and some extra hamstring strengthening to get your hips in shape for hunting season. You’ll build endurance in your legs and upper body while making your hips more resilient. Here are the exercises in the workout:

1. Row Ergometer

The rower is a perfect complement to this hip workout because it uses a mix of upper and lower-body muscles, meaning you won’t exhaust your hips because it’s low-impact. If your hips are bothering you, it should offer a relatively painless way to warm up.

• Step 1: Strap your feet snugly into the rower
• Step 2: Grab the handle
• Step 3: Sit up tall in the seat and slide your body as close to the front of the rower as you can
• Step 4: Press with your legs, pulling the handle
• Step 5: Once your knees are nearly straight, lean back slightly and pull the handle into your chest
• Step 6: Reverse the steps to return to the start position

2. Banded Hip Flexors

This exercise strengthens the hip flexors, the muscles in front of your thigh that lift your leg. They often lack strength, particularly if you sit a lot at your job. Strengthening them can help prevent hip injuries.

• Step 1: Tie a band to a fixed object behind you, as low to the ground as possible
• Step 2: Face away from the band and get into an elevated push-up position with your hands on a bench or wall
• Step 3: Put your foot in the band
• Step 4: Drive your knee up to the chest, pushing against the resistance of the band
• Step 5: Return to the start position to complete one rep

3. Standing Fire Hydrants

Perhaps you want a visual, but this exercise looks a lot like what a dog does when it pees on a fire hydrant. It targets the gluteus medius, a muscle on the side of your hips, that’s ignored by many other leg exercises.

• Step 1: Place a min-band around your knees
• Step 2: Cross your arms in front of your chest, or keep them by your sides
• Step 3: Slightly bend both knees
• Step 4: Lift one leg as far as you can backward and to the side

4. Single Leg Hamstring Curls

Weak hamstrings can lead to muscle strains or sprains if you put too much force on them. Leg exercises like squats and lunges don’t target the hamstrings very well. In fact, not many exercises isolate them properly, but the hamstring curl does.

• Step 1: Get a slider or roller that can glide under your foot
• Step 2: Lie on the ground with one heel on the glider, crossing your arms over your chest
• Step 3: Bridge your hips into the air a few inches
• Step 4: Keeping your hips in the air, slide your foot away from your body until you feel the tension in your hamstrings
• Step 5: Slide the glider back towards your body as far as you can to complete one rep

Now that you know the exercises, it’s time to combine them into a workout. You’ll row, do a hip strengthening exercise or two, then repeat. In total, you’ll row 3,000 meters.

• 250-meter row/10 banded hip flexors on each leg
• 250-meter row/10 banded hip flexors on each leg
• 500m row/3 sets of 10 standing fire hydrants on each leg/3 sets of 10 single-leg ham curls on each leg
• 500m row/3 sets of 10 standing fire hydrants on each leg/3 sets of 10 single-leg ham curls on each leg
• 250-meter row/10 banded hip flexors on each leg
• 250-meter row/10 banded hip flexors on each leg
• 500m row/3 sets of 10 standing fire hydrants on each leg/3 sets of 10 single-leg ham curls on each leg
• 500m row/3 sets of 10 standing fire hydrants on each leg/3 sets of 10 single-leg ham curls on each leg

Workout #2: Shoulder Health Workout

If you’re unfamiliar with the Assault bike, you’ll be well-acquainted after this workout. Similar to the hip health workout, you’ll alternate a cardio exercise with shoulder-strengthening movements. This workout targets the muscles that archers need to shoot with range and accuracy.

Here are the exercises you’ll see in the workout:

1. Assault Bike

This isn’t your average spin bike. It’s a full-body machine that uses a fan in the front to increase resistance as you pedal harder. In this workout, you’ll use calories burned as a measurement of distance. The assault bike mainly works the legs, but the upper body pushes to add power.

• Step 1: Adjust the seat of the bike so that your knees are almost entirely straight at the bottom of each cycle
• Step 2: Sit on the bike and put your feet on the pedals, gripping the handles
• Step 3: Pedal with your feet, simultaneously pushing the handles on one arm and pulling with the other

2. Renegade Rows

As an archer, you need to push with one arm (the arm holding the bow) and pull with the other (the arm that draws). This exercise perfectly mimics that movement, strengthening your shoulder, back, arm, and core muscles. Generally speaking, rowing exercises are some of the best for archers.

• Step 1: Get into a push-up position, holding a dumbbell in each hand
• Step 2: Keeping your hips squared to the ground, lift one dumbbell up until your wrist hits your rib cage
• Step 3: Lower the dumbbell to the ground, then repeat on the other side to complete one rep
• Step 4: You can optionally add a push-up to increase the intensity

3. TRX Y’s

Strengthening the back of your shoulder is important for an archer. This exercise does just that, using the smooth resistance of the TRX to strengthen the muscles around your shoulder blade and the back of your shoulder joint.

• Step 1: Hold the handles of a TRX and lean back, walking your feet forward so that your body is at an angle relative to the ground
• Step 2: With a slight bend in your elbows, raise your arms straight overhead
• Step 3: At the top of the movement, your arms should form a “Y”
• Step 4: Lower your arms so that they point to the site where the TRX is attached

4. Push-Up +

The push-up+ is a regular push-up with a little something extra at the top. You’ll do a scapular protraction at the top, which is when you move your shoulder blades away from each other. This strengthens the pecs and rotator cuff muscles to make your shoulders more stable.

• Step 1: Get into the push-up position
• Step 2: Perform a regular push-up
• Step 3: Once you get to the top, continue to press the ground away from you, lifting your upper back toward the ceiling
• Step 4: Return to the regular push-up position, relaxing your upper back, to complete one rep

5. Weighted Superman

The superman exercise strengthens your lower back, glutes, and shoulders. This variation targets the shoulder muscles even more by adding weight. You’ll work the back of your shoulders, strengthening them through a wide range of motion to make them more resilient.

• Step 1: Lie on the ground on your stomach with a weight in each hand
• Step 2: Lift your legs and feet off of the ground
• Step 3: Lift your arms off of the ground, holding your hands close to your ears
• Step 4: Reach forward with the weights as far as you can, then return your arms to the start position
• Step 5: Lower your arms and legs to the ground to complete one rep

For this workout, you’ll alternate the Assault bike with shoulder exercises. Each round you’ll do either an endurance ride on the bike or a sprint. And each round the endurance distance decreases by 10 calories. Renegade rows and TRX Y’s are performed after the endurance ride. After sprints, you’ll do the push-up+ and weighted supermans. This workout will wear you down and rebuild you stronger than ever before – you got this!

• 70 cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans
• 60-cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans
• 50 cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans
• 40 cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans
• 30-cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans
• 20 cal endurance bike
• 10 renegade rows on each arm, 10 TRX Y’s
• 10 cal bike sprint
• 3 rounds of 10 push-up+, 10 weighted supermans

Workout #3: Mountain Man Workout

You’ve read through one workout to strengthen your hips and one workout to improve your shoulder strength for archery. This workout is designed to prepare your legs for hunting season so that they can take you as far as you need to go.

You’ll need a weighted pack for this workout to simulate the demands placed on your legs during hunting season. We’re big believers in functional fitness. Here are the exercises you’ll see in the Mountain Man Workout:

1. Treadmill incline/decline walking

To simulate walking up and down mountains, set your treadmill to an incline of 15. You must walk facing both forwards and backward to prepare for hunting season because walking down a mountain with heavy gear can be just as difficult as walking up.

• Step 1: Set your treadmill to an incline of 15
• Step 2: Set your speed to an even pace that you can walk at without feeling like you need to grab onto the guard rails
• Step 3: Try to maintain a relatively upright posture as you walk

2. Lateral Step-Ups

You’ll need a box or bench for this leg exercise. Since you’ll already have a weighted pack on your back, you shouldn’t need extra weight. Rather than stepping straight forwards and backward, this movement prepares you for the often-awkward and unpredictable steps you’ll be taking in the wilderness.

• Step 1: Stand next to a box or bench
• Step 2: Place your inside foot on the top of the surface, slightly in front of your body
• Step 3: Lean onto the elevated leg and step up by pressing down with that leg
• Step 4: Once you have both feet on the box and are standing tall, step down with your outside foot
• Step 5: Step your inside foot back to the ground to complete one rep

3. Walking Lunges

This movement prepares your legs for grueling, uphill treks. It works the quadriceps, hamstrings, and glutes, using the weight from the pack on your back to push the leg muscles to the point of fatigue.

• Step 1: Find a clear space with room to walk forwards and backward
• Step 2: Take a lunge step forwards, planting your front foot flat on the ground
• Step 3: Bend your front and back knee, lowering your body towards the ground
• Step 4: As you go down, lean over your front leg slightly with your torso
• Step 5: Step forward with your back foot, coming up to a standing position with both feet together
• Step 6: Lunge with the other leg to complete one rep

Benefits of Pre-Season Bow Hunting Workouts

Preparing your body for hunting season is essential if you want to hit the ground running. You don’t want to waste any opportunities you might have because your upper body muscles aren’t up to the task of accurately shooting your bow. If you find the perfect spot, your legs should be able to take you there without giving out and forcing you to quit.

Unlike hiking or other mountain athletics, you start the journey with a heavy pack, but if you’re successful, you’ll leave with a significantly heavier pack. Sure, you’ll shed some pack weight along the way as you munch through your rations, but with hard work and some luck, the toughest physical challenge will be hauling elk quarters down the mountain at the end. Thankfully a heavy shot of primal adrenaline will help you along the way, but if you want to truly breathe in the victory lap, you’ll need to be in peak physical condition far before bow season begins.

The workouts above prepare your body for the various demands hunting will place on it. A study performed on rugby players found that adding only 10 training sessions before their season started reduced the risk of injury by 17%. With even more time spent training, your injury risk should drop even further.

Even though it’s not viewed as a traditional sport, hunters are mountain athletes nonetheless. So prep your body the same way athletes of other sports would. This isn’t some marketing gimmick either. It’s backed by data and scientific research – in fact, preseason training is the key to improving performance. For instance, a study performed on soccer players showed that sprint training in preseason improved their performance more than playing small games. The take-home point is that going out on small expeditions won’t prepare you for the big hunt in the same way that time spent in the gym will.

Upper body strength is one of the most important factors in archery technique. The shoulder workout will build all areas of the shoulder so that you can use your upper body to draw the bow and confidently take a shot. Strength training improves your technique, and it makes you more confident in your shot. That self-belief is crucial for your next hunt.

Make Every Shot Count

To take advantage of each hunt, you have to prepare your body beforehand. Working out before hunting season can make you more confident in your shot and allow you to cover more ground. Each workout you do before hunting season will make your life a little easier.

With that being said, you won’t get results if you walk into the gym and start doing random exercises. You need a program that targets the specific qualities that a hunter needs, like leg muscle endurance and upper body strength. Plus, you have to take care of your joints to make sure you don’t get hurt.

For guidance, check out the Backcountry Hunter Series. It’s specifically designed for people like you to maximize your performance. If you’re not ready to commit to anything, try the free 14-day MTNTough trial for access to all fitness content.

Fooling waterfowl consistently means adapting to the variables that present themselves both in the field and on the water. Ultimately, how convincing your decoy spread is will either make or break a hunt. Here, we outline four decoy spreads, each proven to dupe even the wariest flocks under most conditions.

THE CROP CIRCLE

This spread is effective for hunting ducks in a harvested agricultural field. Unlike many field decoys setups, the Crop Circle draws ducks in extremely well even with light and variable winds.

Ducks and geese tend to decoy into the wind, but harvested grain fields are so attractive that ducks might drop from the sky from any direction. This spread keeps ducks out in front where shooting them is easiest.

Puddle ducks that drop into an agricultural field that already has ducks on it will land behind those ducks rather than in front of them. They also like to land near individuals and small groups that have moved away from the main flock. Anyone who has had a floating decoy drift off during a water hunt has likely noticed this behavior, and it also occurs in fields.

The decoys are set in a circle with a small flock or an individual decoy in the center. No matter which way the wind is blowing, ducks will either head for the upwind, inside edge of the circle of decoys to land at the tails or they’ll target the small flock (or single) in the center. A narrow gap in the downwind side of the circle entices ducks to enter the circle at that location.

Mallards are usually the mainstay species for a field hunt. However, setting small flocks of other ducks, such as gadwalls and pintails, upwind on the hunter’s shooting shoulder side, can entice these other ducks to decoy while saving the best shooting angle on the shooter’s strong side for decoying mallards.

If Canada geese are in the area, setting a small group of goose decoys away from the main circle of duck decoys and on the side opposite the secondary duck decoys can provide a bonus opportunity.

THE FISHHOOK

One of the most reliable decoy setups on land or water is the Fishhook, also known as a “J Spread.” The Fishhook works best when the wind is angling over the shooter’s shoulder or parallel to the bank. The shank of the fishhook extends downwind.

Canada geese are the primary targets with this setup. If secondary species (i.e., white-fronted or snow geese) are in the area, setting small groups of decoys for them upwind, outside and away from the point of the hook, might entice them to drop in.

It’s important to set this spread well away from any tall cover, including trees, cane, cattails and fencerows. Canada geese might circle a spread several times before taking a long-approach flight path as they decoy from downwind. They’ll shy away from any tall object they have to pass over while circling and might balk if any tall cover is near the shank of the hook during their final approach. Even a single bush can cause them to change their minds and flare away.

The blind should be at the apex of the hook bend. Geese will land anywhere along the inside of the bend, so being situated for shooting at its center provides the best opportunity no matter the approach angle.

THE GAPPED FISHHOOK

This spread is best for hunting diving ducks that have been hunted hard and are blind wary. The Gapped Fishhook is set up so the long shank of the hook runs away from the boat or bank blind positioned at the hook’s point.

Diving ducks are seemingly hypnotized by the long line of decoys leading to the hook bend. However, the line must be perfectly straight, with decoys spaced evenly 4 or 5 feet apart. Using gang rigs, also called longline or trotline rigs, helps to maintain the straight line and keeps decoys spaced evenly.

The line can be 100 yards or longer, extending far downwind. Passing ducks locate the end of the line and fly along it until they reach the bend in the hook, where they decoy to the head of the decoys. However, if there is any gap or division in an otherwise straight line of decoys, decoying divers might land in the gap(s) and out of gun range.

Diving ducks tend to decoy to the head of a rig because of the way they feed. After swimming submerged and feeding on the bottom, birds at the rear of the flock will surface and leapfrog over ducks feeding in front of them because the easiest-to-find food has been eaten.

A gap should be left at the end of the straight shank just before the hook bend. Diving ducks can decoy very close to the water, and the gap keeps the hunter from shooting his decoys. Another flock of diving ducks should be set to attract secondary birds.

For early-season spreads, ring-necked duck decoys can serve for the main body and scaup for the secondary species, but species composition should match the ducks seen in the area. The secondary species decoys are set with the hook point facing outward from the blind, leaving a gap between the two bodies of decoys.

This leaves another open area where you don’t have to worry about shot striking the decoys. Ducks will attempt to land at either gap or at the head of either body of decoys, depending upon the species.

THE DOUBLE V

The Double V spread is a great water setup for puddle ducks, and it can attract primary and secondary species as well as oddball ducks. The first V is set slightly upwind, with the wind blowing parallel to the bank. The second V of decoys is set 10 to 20 yards behind or downwind of the first V. In November, most Southern waterfowl hunters are served well by using mallards and green-winged teal decoys to fill out these two Vs.

Setting a single teal and a single mallard decoy in the gap between the two Vs gives singles and small flocks a landing target. Puddle ducks usually land behind the decoys, rather than in front of them like divers do. This setup works well when puddle ducks are drawn to the inside angular bends of the Vs or to the single decoys in the gap(s) between them.

Other secondary decoys can be set near the blind in the gap between the two Vs of primary decoys. These can include black ducks, pintails, gadwalls or confidence decoys like coots, depending upon the various species that are in the area. Even diving ducks may be attracted to decoys set in this location. The idea is to give them a landing target within the large Vs that constitute the main attraction.

FRESHEN UP YOUR SPREAD

Time for a decoy upgrade? Check out these four fakes.

Flambeau Gunning Series Canvasback decoys pair the round-bottom design of old-time, hand-carved decoys with a modern, skeg-style keel for a lifelike ride under any water conditions, even in the shallow waters of flooded farm fields. The plastic outer shell is quiet, and the interior is foam-filled for durability. The patented UVision finish reflects the real ultraviolet plumage signature that ducks see. ($139.99/six; flambeauoutdoors.com)

Mojo’s Elite Series Floater decoys solve the problems associated with setting spinning-wing decoys on stakes by replacing the stakes with easy-to-install floating plastic bases. Each decoy includes a remote control. The float has a removable 11-inch bar with a 14-ounce weight that stabilizes it in rough conditions. Available in mallard, bluebill and redhead drakes. ($139.99; mojooutdoors.com)

Tanglefree’s 60 Pack of Lesser Canada Skinny silhouette decoys contains 40 upright, 10 walker and 10 feeder geese for customizable, ultra-realistic spreads in a number of scenarios. All 5-dozen decoys feature flocked heads for improved realism. A Flight Series decoy bag in Optifade Marsh camouflage is included for easily transporting the lightweight dekes to and from the X. ($434.99; tanglefree.com)

The HAM Team has been testing a 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II for some time. Overall, this is quite similar to the original FX Wildcat in .22 caliber we tested two years ago. After all, it is a “Mark II” version of the same basic gun…

Background

The .22 cal Wildcat earned a HAM Gold Award with a 93% score, so it’s clear that the Wildcat is a great air rifle. This time we’re looking at the Mark II version.

This has longer (700 mm, that’s 28 Inches) barrel, combined with a higher capacity HPA reservoir. These are appropriate for the increased power output of the larger caliber.

Wildcat Mark II models also incorporate the FX SmoothTwist X interchangeable barrel liner system. This allows users the ability to exchange barrel liners for pellet or slug use, for example.

There’s a range of barrel liners in varying twist rates and bore specifications for compatibility with various airgun projectile weights and shapes.

We tested the regular, pellet liner in this 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II.

.30 Caliber Specifics

.30 caliber is rapidly increasing in popularity. However there is still not a huge range of pellets available for it. The HAM Team had some tins of 44.75 Grain JSB Exacts. We also had some .30 caliber Predator Polymags.

Given that the 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II is clearly a hunting gun, we had expected to use the Polymags for our main testing. Unfortunately – and surprisingly – the Polymags proved too long to fit into the Wildcat’s magazine.

So we undertook all the testing with JSBs…

Overall Impressions

As we know from the previous Wildcat test, this air rifle is a beautiful, fine-handling “traditional” bullpup air rifle. It’s traditional because it has a full, regular stock – either laminate, walnut or synthetic, to your choice.

If anything the 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II is slightly more comfortable to shoot than the original – in the HAM Team’s opinion. We preferred the somewhat greater muzzle-heaviness of the large caliber version.

The sidelever action remains a pleasure to use and the trigger pulls back with almost no pressure at all. The average pull weight was 1 Lb 2 Oz. That’s very close to that of the .22 caliber gun we tested before and an indication of very consistent manufacturing and assembly at the factory.

In spite of the very light trigger pull weight, the second stage is very easily detected. It’s no problem at all to hold the trigger just at breaking point. Sear release is crisp and predictable.

As usual, the HAM team tested the Wildcat’s trigger as received “out of the box”. We saw no need to make any adjustments.

The gun we received was supplied with a separate Donny FL silencer, although we didn’t find the need to install it for our testing as the factory moderator muted the report sufficiently for us.

The overall shooting weight of the test gun was 9 Lb 2 Oz – including the mounted Holland’s scope. Length was 35 1/4 Inches. Both these figures would, of course, be slightly higher with a silencer added.

HAM Tester Doug Wall is a left-hander. However he found the Wildcat pleasant to shoot as the magazine protrudes very little from the receiver and because the cocking lever is mounted amidships.

The magazine is very easy to load. However there’s no “blank shot” prevention. The Wildcat does not warn you if there’s no pellets remaining in the magazine. So you do have to keep count of the number of shots fired.

Scopes

We tried the 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II with two scopes. First was the MTC Cobra F1 4-16 x 50. This scope balanced well with the Wildcat and the First Focal Plane configuration clearly offered benefits for a dedicated hunting air rifle.

Then we swapped the MTC scope with a Holland’s Game-Getter 2.5 – 15 x 50 model. This dedicated hunting scope was also mounted using Leapers UTG PRO rings.

Although designed primarily as a hunting scope for firearm use, the Game-Getter displayed some interesting benefits, including the oversize elevation and windage turrets. We’ll be talking more about this scope in a future post in HAM.

Using the UTG PRO high rings, we had no problems achieving a good sight picture with either scope.

As with the first version, the 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II has a fixed buttpad. It worked just fine like that for both shooters. But we felt that an adjustable buttpad would not be too much to ask on a $1,700 (plus scope) air rifle – just in case.

Speed And Accuracy

The 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II tested by HAM was a powerful and accurate air rifle.

Shooting the 44.75 Grain JSBs, we recorded a 10-shot average Muzzle Velocity of 825.4 FPS. This translated to a solid 67.41 Ft/Lbs of Muzzle Energy.

As the graph below shows, the 30 caliber Wildcat achieved 28 consistent shots from a fill of HPA before “falling off” of the regulator. While there was still plenty of power available after shot 28, it would definitely make sense to re-fill with HPA to ensure vertical accuracy.

Of course, 28 consistent shots is plenty for almost any airgun hunter. Combined with the 8-shot magazine, that represents a very practical, usable combination of power and shot count.

As for accuracy, this “one hole” group of 5 shots at 25 Yards was deemed very acceptable by the HAM Testers. This combination of Wildcat, Game-Getter scope and JSB pellets certainly shoots!

At 50 Yards, the 5-shot group had opened out a little, possibly due to some gusts in the crosswind. However, this was still very satisfactory hunting accuracy.

We left the scope windage and elevation unchanged for the 50 Yard shots. The drop from 25 Yards (the sight-in range) was 1 5/8 Inches.

Conclusions

The 30 Caliber FX Wildcat Mark II tested by HAM proved to be powerful, consistent and accurate. It’s clearly a very capable bullpup air rifle that would be a pleasure to own.

We’ll finish this review by repeating the conclusions from the review of the original Wildcat. “The FX Wildcat air rifle is beautifully-designed and manufactured bullpup that’s a joy to shoot. It has the power and accuracy to be an outstanding hunting air rifle.”

BUY FROM AIRGUN DEPOT FX Wildcat MkII Laminate

Hunting is a popular sport in the United States, and many people rely on hunting to provide them with food. If you’re interested in hunting, you may be wondering if Walmart sells hunting licenses.

The fact is: Many people are unaware that Walmart sells hunting licenses. As a major retailer, Walmart is well-positioned to provide hunting licenses to its customers. In this blog post, we will discuss the benefits of purchasing hunting licenses from Walmart. We will also look at the different types of hunting licenses available at Walmart. Finally, we will provide some tips for purchasing hunting licenses from Walmart.

Can You Get a Hunting License at Walmart?

Yes, Walmart does sell hunting licenses. You can purchase a license for many different types of games, including deer, elk, bear, and turkey. Buying your license online is easy and convenient – all you need is a computer and an internet connection. Plus, you’ll save 5% on your purchase when you buy your license online

What Do You Need for a Walmart Hunting License?

In order to purchase a hunting license from Walmart, you’ll need a few things. First, you’ll need to be at least 18 years old. Next, you’ll need a valid form of identification, such as a driver’s license or passport. Finally, you’ll need a credit or debit card to pay for your license. Once you have all of these things, you’re ready to purchase your license!

(Are raccoon rodents? See this post for more)

How Much Does a Hunting License Cost at Walmart?

The cost of a hunting license varies depending on the type of game you’re hunting and the state in which you reside. However, in general, licenses range from $19-$35. You can find more specific pricing information on the Walmart website.

Is There an Age Limit for Buying a Hunting License at Walmart?

Yes, there is an age limit for buying a hunting license at Walmart. You must be at least 18 years old to purchase a hunting license from Walmart. If you’re not yet 18, you can still hunt with a valid hunting license from another adult.

How Do I Get a Hunting License From Walmart?

The hunting license process at Walmart is easy and straightforward. Just tell an employee in the sporting goods department that you want one, and they’ll provide all the necessary forms for completing it.

You need to fill out some personal information like your name or birthday , select different types of hunting activities – uplands/woods, waterfowl season springs turkey ala duck decoying, etc., pay fees according to what kind(s) chosen plus taxes. 

After confirming your identity and collecting payment, the official will give you a tag to carry with you while hunting that has proof of hunting permission.

It’s important to know the laws in your state when hunting, so be sure you’re following them. The cost of a hunting license may vary depending on where and what type of animal it is for but most start around $12!

FAQs

Can You Hunt the Same Day After Buying a Walmart Hunting License?

Yes, you can usually hunt the same day after buying a hunting license from Walmart. However, it’s always a good idea to check the regulations in your state to be sure.

Is There a Limit on the Number of Hunting Licenses You Can Purchase From Walmart?

No, there is no limit on the number of hunting licenses you can purchase from Walmart. However, you can only purchase one license per person.

Do You Need a Hunting License to Buy a Gun at Walmart?

No, you do not need a hunting license to buy a gun at Walmart. However, you will need to pass a background check in order to purchase a firearm from Walmart.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Buying a Hunting License From Walmart?

There are both pros and cons to buying a hunting license from Walmart. Some of the pros include convenience, price, and selection. Some of the cons include limited customer service and restricted hours. Overall, the decision of whether or not to buy a hunting license from Walmart is up to the individual.

Does Walmart Sell Hunting Licenses With Permits and Endorsements?

Yes, Walmart sells hunting licenses with permits and endorsements. However, the cost of these licenses may be higher than the cost of a regular hunting license.

What Are Some Other Places That Sell Hunting Licenses?

In addition to Walmart, you can also purchase hunting licenses from sporting goods stores, outdoor retailers, and state wildlife agencies. You can also purchase hunting licenses online from some retailers.

Can You Get a Hunting and Fishing License Together at Walmart?

Yes, you can usually get a hunting and fishing license together at Walmart. However, the cost of these licenses may be higher than the cost of a regular hunting or fishing license.

Do You Need a New Walmart Hunting License Every Year?

In most cases, you will need to renew your Walmart hunting license every year. However, the rules for renewing a hunting license may vary depending on the state in which you live. Be sure to check the regulations in your state before purchasing a hunting license from Walmart.

Does Walmart Selling Hunting License Holders?

Yes, Walmart sells hunting license holders. These holders can be used to store and protect your hunting license while you are out in the field.

How to Find a Walmart With Hunting Licenses?

To find a Walmart that sells hunting licenses, you can use the Store locator on the Walmart website. Once you have found a store, you can call to confirm that they sell hunting licenses. You can also ask about the cost of hunting licenses and whether or not they sell other hunting supplies.

Conclusion

When it comes to hunting licenses, Walmart is a one-stop-shop. You can purchase licenses for many different types of games, including deer, elk, bear, and turkey. Buying your license online is easy and convenient – all you need is a computer and an internet connection.. So what are you waiting for? Get your hunting license today!