Rubber boots are essential for those rainy days when you don’t want your feet to get wet. But if they start to leak or crack, it can be frustrating. That’s why we’ve put together this guide on how to fix them fast.

You don’t have to go through the hassle of buying a new pair of rubber boots just because they start to leak or crack. With our easy tips, you can have them fixed up in no time. So don’t wait – Repair Your Rubber Boots In No Time!

Don’t let a little crack or leak in your rubber boots turn into a big problem. Here are five ways to repair them quickly and easily in our compilation.

Read on here for more information on repairing cracks and leaks in rubber boots!

Can You Repair Rubber Boots?

Yes, it is possible to repair rubber boots. However, the extent of the repair will depend on the type of damage and the available materials. For minor damages, such as small holes or cracks, a patch can be used to fix the problem. More extensive damage, such as large holes or tears, may require the use of a patch and a sealant. If the damage is too severe, the boot may need to be replaced.

5 Ways to Repair Cracks and Leaks in Rubber Boots

If your rubber boots have cracks or leaks, there are several ways you can repair them. You can buy a rubber boot patch kit, use vulcanizing cement, use a sealant, use a hot glue gun, or use boot covers. Let’s see how these tips can be used to repair rubber boots that leak and crack.

1. Rubber boot patch kit

A rubber boot patch kit comes with a piece of rubber and instructions on how to apply it to the boot.

The process included in applying the patch may vary, but the kit will come with everything you need to complete the repair.

You can follow these steps:

1. Clean the area around the hole or leak with a damp cloth.
2. Cut the patch to size, if necessary.
3. Apply the adhesive to the back of the patch.
4. Peel off the backing and apply the patch to the boot.
5. Press down on the patch to adhere it to the boot.
6. Wear the boots after the adhesive has dried completely.

With a few minutes and effort, rubber boots can be repaired easily!

2. Use vulcanizing cement

Rubber boots are repaired with vulcanizing cement when they leak or crack. It works by bonding the two pieces of rubber together, which creates a strong seal that prevents further leaking.

Vulcanizing cement is available at most hardware stores and can be applied easily with a brush or roller. This type of repair is often used on rubber boots that are exposed to harsh weather conditions or frequent wear and tear. It results in a strong and durable repair that will last for many years.

3. Use sealant works

A sealant is a material that is used to fill in gaps or cracks, sealing them off from the rest of the surface. When applied to rubber boots, it creates a barrier that prevents water and other liquids from seeping through the cracks and leaks. This can be an effective way to repair and extend the life of your rubber boots.

The application process includes the following steps:

1. Start by cleaning the surface of the boot where the sealant will be applied. Use a damp cloth to remove any dirt, debris, or other foreign objects that could prevent the sealant from bonding properly.
2. Apply the sealant to the cracks and leaks, using a putty knife or other similar tool.
3. Smooth out the sealant so that it is level with the rest of the boot surface. Boots should be worn after the sealant has completely dried.

Sealants are typically made from silicone, latex, or other synthetic materials. They can be purchased at most hardware or home improvement stores.

When selecting a sealant, be sure to choose one that is specifically designed for use on rubber. Follow the instructions on the packaging to ensure proper application and drying time.

4. Use a hot glue gun

Rubber boots can be repaired with a hot glue gun if they have cracks or leaks. It works by heating the glue so that it can be easily applied to the affected area.

The hot glue will then cool down and harden, creating a seal that will prevent further water from leaking through.

To use a hot glue gun, first, make sure that the area to be repaired is clean and dry. Then apply a layer of glue around the perimeter of the hole or crack.

Be sure to smooth out any air bubbles so that the seal is as watertight as possible. Allow the glue to dry for several hours before wearing the boots again.

Hot glue guns are a quick and easy way to repair small cracks and leaks in rubber boots. However, they are not intended for use on larger holes or tears. If the damage to your boots is too severe, you will need to replace them entirely.

Mote read: Glue for rubber boots

5. Use boot covers

The Use of a boot cover works to repair the Cracks and leaks in rubber boots by providing a temporary seal that will allow the user to continue using the product while it is being repaired.

This method is often used when there is a small crack or leak that needs to be fixed, and it can be done quickly and easily without having to replace the entire boot.

Almost any hardware store or home improvement store sells boot covers, and they are typically made from a flexible material that can be easily applied to the affected area.

Once the cover is in place, it will need to be held down with a piece of tape or a similar product so that it does not come off while the boot is being repaired.

Once the repair is complete, the boot cover can be removed and the boot will be as good as new. In some cases, the use of a boot cover can also help to prevent further damage to the boot, which can save the user money in the long run.

Best way to patch rubber boots

There are many ways to patch a hole in rubber boots, but the best way depends on the size and location of the hole.

For small holes, use a strong adhesive like epoxy or super glue. For bigger holes, patch the hole from the inside with a piece of rubber or PVC pipe. If the hole is near the edge of the boot, you may also need to reinforce the edge with a strip of rubber or PVC.

Once you’ve patched the hole, be sure to test the repair by walking in a puddle or spraying the boots with water. If the repair seems secure, your boots should be good as new!

Conclusion

In conclusion, rubber boots are a great way to keep your feet dry and protected from the elements. However, they can sometimes leak or peel, and they may also crack if they’re not properly cared for. If you have a pair of rubber boots that are in need of repair, be sure to follow the steps outlined in this article so that you can get them back in working order. And when shopping for rubber boots, be sure to keep the above information in mind so that you can choose a pair that will last you for many years to come.

Thanks for reading!

FAQs

How to fix peeling rubber boots?

If your rubber boots are peeling, there are a few things you can do to try and fix the problem. First, make sure that the boots are clean and dry. If they are dirty or wet, they will be more likely to peel. Next, try using a mild soap or detergent to clean the boots. If this does not work, you can try using a rubber boot conditioner. Finally, if none of these things work, you may need to replace your boots.

How to find a leak in rubber boots?

There are a few ways that you can tell if your rubber boots leak. One way is to simply fill the boots with water and then check for any drips or leaks. Another way is to put the boots on and then step into a puddle or pool of water. If you see any water coming in through the boot, then you know that you leak. Finally, you can also check the inside of the boots for any water or moisture. If you see any signs of water, then you most likely leak into your boots.

How do keep rubber boots from cracking?

There are a few things you can do to help extend the life of your rubber boots and prevent them from cracking.

One is to make sure that you store them in a cool, dry place when they’re not being worn. If they’re exposed to too much heat or sunlight, the rubber will break down more quickly.

Another is to avoid wearing them in rough conditions whenever possible. If you know you’re going to be walking through mud or puddles, try to put on a different pair of shoes first and save the rubber boots for when you need them.

And finally, you can treat the surface of the boots with a silicone-based protectant. This will help create a barrier against water and dirt, and it will also make the boots easier to clean. Simply apply the protectant with a cloth or brush and then buff it dry.

Dove hunting in Texas is a cherished tradition among hunters, offering exciting opportunities to test your skills and enjoy the beauty of the great outdoors. With its diverse landscapes and abundant dove populations, Texas is a premier destination for this thrilling sport. In this guide, brought to you by Find A Hunt, we will explore the best practices and top locations for dove hunting in the Lone Star State.

I. Understanding Dove Hunting Regulations:

Before embarking on your dove hunting adventure, it is crucial to familiarize yourself with the regulations set forth by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD). These regulations include hunting seasons, bag limits, legal shooting hours, and licensing requirements. It is the responsibility of every hunter to comply with these regulations to ensure the sustainability of dove populations and the preservation of the sport.

II. Best Practices for Dove Hunting:

Scout Your Hunting Area: Doves are highly mobile birds that move in response to food availability and environmental conditions. To increase your chances of a successful hunt, scout potential hunting locations prior to your trip. Look for areas with ample food sources, such as grain fields, sunflower fields, or water sources, as these are attractive to doves.

Concealment and Decoys: Setting up proper concealment is crucial for dove hunting. Doves have sharp eyesight and can detect movement easily. Use natural cover like trees, bushes, or blinds to blend into the environment. Additionally, utilizing dove decoys can attract passing doves, increasing your chances of a successful hunt.

Safety First: Safety should always be the top priority when hunting. Always be aware of your surroundings and never shoot at low-flying birds or in the direction of other hunters. It is also essential to wear appropriate protective gear, including eye and ear protection.

Effective Shot Placement: Doves are small and agile birds, so shot placement is vital. Aim for the head and neck region, as it offers the highest chances of a clean kill. Practice your shooting skills regularly to improve accuracy and ensure humane harvests.

III. Top Dove Hunting Locations in Texas:

South Texas: Renowned for its vast agricultural lands and warm climate, South Texas attracts large populations of mourning and white-winged doves. The cities of Uvalde, Carrizo Springs, and Dilley offer excellent dove hunting opportunities.

Central Texas: The expansive agricultural fields and river bottoms of Central Texas provide prime dove hunting grounds. Areas around San Antonio, Austin, and Fredericksburg are popular among hunters.

West Texas: The arid landscapes of West Texas are home to significant numbers of doves. Cities like Abilene, San Angelo, and Lubbock offer diverse hunting opportunities, with sunflower and wheat fields serving as key attractants.

North Texas: The rolling prairies and croplands of North Texas provide excellent dove hunting experiences. Regions around Wichita Falls, Graham, and Decatur are frequented by both mourning and white-winged doves.

Conclusion:

Dove hunting in Texas is an exhilarating experience that combines the thrill of the hunt with the beauty of the state’s diverse landscapes. By adhering to regulations, implementing best practices, and exploring the top hunting locations mentioned in this guide, you can maximize your chances of a successful and memorable dove hunting trip. Remember to always prioritize safety and respect for the environment as you participate in this time-honored tradition. Happy hunting!

Bald eagles are incredibly strong birds and highly-skilled flyers. They are often reported as picking up cats and dogs before swooping off with them, but is it true?

An eagle would struggle to pick up and fly away with a cat, but they may attack small cats and kittens.

Eagles primarily feed on fish, and experts estimate that they can carry fish weighing approximately 4-5 pounds. An average domesticated cat weighs between 8 and 10 pounds, which puts it way beyond the carrying capacity of an eagle. In fact, by the time a kitten reaches approximately 4 months old, it will weigh about 4 or 5 pounds, so by the time your kitten leaves the house, it is likely to be too big for an eagle to carry off.

If you are concerned, you can keep your cat indoors, where it is safe from any natural predator, and you can take steps to try and scare away eagles and other birds of prey.

About the Bald Eagle

The bald eagle is a formidable bird. An adult has a wing of approximately 7 feet and one can weigh up to 14 pounds. The bird can fly at speeds of nearly 100 mph when diving, and its size and its white head and tail mean that it is difficult to miss when one of these birds swoops.

You are most likely to see a bald eagle swoop around water because its preferred food is fish. They also eat geese, gulls, and other smaller birds. Very rarely, they will dine on rabbits and small mammals, and more rarely, if at all, they may pick up and fly away with a kitten.

Because of the weight of an adult cat, an eagle will not be able to pick up an adult cat and fly away with it. Most experts agree that the maximum amount of weight that even the strongest bald eagle could lift would be 4 to 5 pounds, and an average adult cat weighs twice this, while some giant breeds can weigh three times as much.

How to Protect Your Cat From Eagles

There are some anecdotal reports of eagles attempting to attack small cats. If you are concerned about this happening, there are some ways that you can help protect your cat.

The simplest method is to keep your cat indoors. Eagles are diurnal, which means that they hunt during the day, so keeping your cat in at night will not keep them free from this winged threat.

Consider installing a pen or exercise run. These prevent your cat from getting out and predators from getting in, while still offering your cat some outdoor space. They can be built onto the back of your property and connected to your home using a standard cat door so that your feline can get in and out whenever they want.

Other Pets at Risk

Rabbits can be at risk of eagle attacks. Wild rabbits are considered tricky prey for an eagle, but they do occasionally get taken. So, if you do have domestic rabbits, ensure that they are kept in a hutch or cage at night, to prevent them from being picked up and carried away.

Summary

The bald eagle is a formidable bird that is capable of flying at great speeds. It has excellent eyesight and is strong. However, the bird usually eats fish and will very rarely eat anything larger than a rodent or very occasionally a small rabbit. Cats, especially adult cats, are considered too large to be under threat from eagles, except in very rare circumstances.

Related Reads:

• Do Bears Attack and Eat Cats?
• Do Snakes Attack and Eat Cats?
• How To Protect Your Cat from Coyotes

Featured Image Credit: MICHOFF from Pixabay

The “git ‘r done with one” shotgun

by Larry Case

“Hey, boy…hand me that scattergun,” he said in a low growl. I carefully handed him the double-barrel, a Fox Sterlingworth that I greatly coveted. We were hiding in his old corncrib and he slid the barrels out the hole in the wall he had selected. Four crows had just landed in the end of his garden where the sweet corn was planted, I heard the snick of the safety and knew they were about to have a bad day.

I watched for a few minutes as he waited for them to cluster together. This guy did not believe in wasting shells. Three of the crows mostly stayed together while one wandered off a little. At the shot, those three stayed. The lone crow left for parts unknown and I doubt if he ever came back.

My gruff mountaineer mentor eased out of his seat and opened the door to the corncrib. His work for the morning was done. Crows had been ravaging his corn, he took care of the problem and that was that. He used a tool for the job, in this case, a shotgun, just like he would use a shovel or a hammer for different jobs on the farm. The old double-barrel was the same gun he used for rabbits, ducks, squirrels, or anything else he hunted with a shotgun.

Things were a lot simpler back then.

Time was when most hunters used one shotgun for about everything. Like my long-gone friend on the mountain, one gun did the job from ducks to squirrels to grouse, and usually with one choke. Now don’t get me wrong, I like shotguns and I have several, but there is something to be said for the simplicity of one gun that does it all.

The CZ-USA Upland Ultralight All-Terrain

It has been several years ago since I went to my first NRA Convention in the capacity of a gun writer. I stopped by the CZ-USA booth and was handed an Upland Ultralight model in 12-gauge. It was love at first heft. This is a 12-gauge shotgun that weighs six pounds. The 20-gauge is less than 5 ½. Many times since then, I have said, “you carry a shotgun a lot more than you shoot it.” And to me, for a hunting shotgun, the lighter the better.

The Upland Ultralight has been a lightweight, fast handling shotgun since its inception, but when CZ-USA came up with the All-Terrain line, they just made a good thing better.

Daniel Holder, the Special Project and Event Coordinator at CZ-USA, gave me his take on the Upland Ultralight.

“I refer to the Upland Ultralight as a ‘guide’s gun.’ What I mean by this is some upland guides will often carry a shotgun, especially if they want to get a little hunting in. That person is going to be carrying that gun a lot more than they will be shooting it. Having an over/under that is close to six pounds makes it a lot easier to carry in the field. Upland hunters, in general, are not going to shoot a lot but, boy, do we walk! I would rather carry a 6.5-pound gun two miles and deal with a little bit of recoil than do the same with an 8- or 9-pound gun. The All-Terrain Upland Ultra-light is the ultimate upland gun. It’s light, rugged, and almost impervious to the elements. How many times have you been walking a field and gotten caught in rain, snow, sleet, et cetera? With the Cerakote finish on that gun, I never worry about it getting wet. The magnets in the extractor are a big plus as well.”

The Four-Wheel Drive of Shotguns

First thing you will notice in the differences between the standard Upland Ultralight and the All-Terrain models is the barrels and receiver boast a Cerakote finish. Cerakote is a hard-coat ceramic and polymer finish. Developed in the 1980s, Cerakote protects against abrasions and is a virtually bombproof shield against corrosion.

So, let’s talk about one of my least favorite topics in the gun world, and that is cleaning them. If you love to clean guns, I truly envy you. I don’t, and whether this can be chalked up to just plain laziness or an inherent character flaw, I don’t know. Bottom line is hunting shotguns take more abuse than any other gun around. Does any shotgun get banged around and exposed to more water, mud, snow, and Labrador drool than one that belongs to an avid duck hunter? Turkey hunters can be rough on a shotgun, and grouse and other upland bird hunters drag their scatterguns through some places not fit for man or beast.

The point is, unless you immediately grab your shotgun and tear it apart for cleaning after a long day in the hinterlands, especially if it got wet, a protective coating like Cerakote can be heaven-sent.

A unique feature of this series of scatterguns is a small but revolutionary addition to the ejector/extractor of the break-open variants. To make them more ideal for use in a duck blind or while handling dogs and equipment in the field, each of the All-Terrain over/under and side-by-sides has a set of rare earth magnets installed in their extractor or ejectors. With these magnets in place, most modern shells are retained in the gun even when the gun is open and turned upside down. This makes loading them easy in a pit blind or a boat, and never will a dog-handler accidentally dump shells out of their gun while bending over to work with their dog.

Why hasn’t someone thought of this before? I don’t know, but CZ-USA Shotgun Product Manager Dave Miller did and believe you me, it is handy. Lots of over and under fans (and fans of side by sides) will routinely break down the shotgun and put it over the shoulder. It is a handy way to carry the gun during a break and it ensure safety as the gun cannot fire. The magnets holding the shells just makes it handier.

Rounding out the features on the All-Terrain models is factory-installed studs to install a sling. Probably all my shotguns that I carry afield now have slings on them. Once again, we carry the gun a lot more than we shoot it. The All-Terrain guns also feature extended choke tubes, making changing chokes in the field easier and it opens a world of aftermarket options that are out there.

I think of the All-Terrain line of shotguns from CZ-USA as the four-wheel drive of shotguns. Cerakote coating in the muted green tone makes these guns nearly impervious to the elements. (Great camo for ducks and turkeys, too). Add the sling studs to install a sling and carry it everywhere. The screw-in choke options will get you ready for most any type of shooting you may come across.

This shotgun will be equally comfortable in the duck blind, turkey woods, pheasant prairies, or grouse thickets. And you will not have to worry about babying it one bit.

More All-Terrain models

CZ-USA didn’t stop at making the Upland Ultralight a four-wheel drive shotgun. Maybe you would rather have a semi-auto? The CZ 1012 is an inertia-driven shotgun that was fired well over 5,000 times in testing with no cleaning or malfunctions. I saw this gun used last fall by Dave Miller and his team to set the Guinness Book of World Records for the greatest number of clays broken by a five-man team in 12 hours. Miller and his crew of young shooters shot these guns almost continuously and broke 14,167 targets. One young man used the same 1012 the entire time — a few others used only two guns that day. Believe me, there were some hot barrels out there that day. So, you can have the inherent ruggedness of the 1012 semi-auto in the Cerakote finish and sling studs.

CZ-USA also made the Redhead Premier, the Bobwhite G2 double-barrel, and the Drake model shotgun with the All-Terrain features. All these shotguns except for the 1012 are available in 12 and 20 gauge.

“The product development team at CZ-USA is comprised of hunters,” said Daniel Holder. “What I mean by this is that we not only design and build the products we put out, but we all use them, extensively. Whether it is hunting ducks at Reelfoot Lake in Tennessee or chasing Easterns in the woods of the “black belt” region of Alabama, we use our products. Because of this experience, we make products that fit the lifestyle of hunters. We know that often the conditions are not favorable to metal guns. Out of the demands we put on our products, the All-Terrain series was born. We wanted to design the “Mack truck” of shotguns. Our goal was to create a product line that no matter what we encountered, the guns would function year in and year out. These guns are also remarkably diverse and can be used on a wide range of game. In the 2019/2020 hunting season, they took pheasants in South Dakota, quail in Texas, snow geese in Missouri, and a turkey in Alabama with one of the Redhead Premier All-Terrains in 20 gauge.”

You may never use your CZ-USA All-Terrain shotgun for as many different things as my old friend on that mountain farm, and then again, you might. Whatever you need a shotgun for, the All-Terrain models are there, like a four-wheel drive truck, sitting in your driveway gassed up and ready to go.

Hunters and shooters across North America love their 30-caliber cartridges. With the popularization of the 30-06 Springfield, the .308” diameter bullet became synonymous with stopping power and long range precision.

However, hunters and shooters wanted more power, muzzle velocity, and a flatter trajectory – and so, the magnum craze began.

Two extremely popular 30-caliber magnum cartridges are the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge). The 300 PRC is a relatively new cartridge as it was released in 2018 while the 300 Win Mag was released in 1962. Both are capable of sub-MOA level accuracy at extreme long range and can take down elk and moose at well over 500 yards.

Although the 300 PRC has been optimized for use with heavier bullets with a high ballistic coefficient, the 300 Win Mag will be more than sufficient for most shooters.

Is it worth it to get a new rifle in 300 PRC? What advantages does it bring to the table?

In this article, we will examine both rifle cartridges to help you determine which will best fit your shooting needs.

What’s the Difference Between 300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag?

The 300 Winchester Magnum was developed in 1962 using a 375 H&H Magnum belted case necked down to accept a 30-caliber bullet. It was designed to fit inside a long action rifle and maintain supersonic flight well past 1,000 yards. At the time, the use of long, aerodynamic, heavier 30-caliber bullets was not something shooters were looking for, as most hunters didn’t really care about ballistic coefficient and were more concerned with penetration and stopping power.

In 2018, the ballistics team at Hornady looked to create a highly optimized 30-caliber magnum cartridge that could utilize longer bullets that were ideal for extreme long range (ELR) shooting. Hornady built the 300 PRC from the ground up, creating the ideal precision rifle cartridge to compete with the 338 Lapua Magnum with considerably lower recoil.

Both the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC can shoot past 1,000 yards and maintain accuracy. However, the 300 PRC will be better suited for shooting out past 1,500 yards and out to 2,000. This caught the eye of the Department of Defense (DoD) in 2019 and they ordered an undisclosed number of Barret MRAD rifles chambered in 300 PRC for their Advanced Sniper Rifle course.

The ELR accuracy that the 300 PRC offers are only matched by the 300 Norma Magnum, 30 Nosler, and 338 Lapua at this point. Does that mean you need to run out and get a new rifle or rebarrel your 300 Win Mag for 300 PRC?

Probably not.

For most target shooters or hunters, the 300 Win Mag will be more than sufficient to fell any game or punch out the 10-ring that dare enter their crosshairs.

However, if you shoot F-Class and/or T-Class competitions, the 300 PRC might give you an edge over some of your competition using a 338 Lapua or a different 30-caliber magnum cartridge.

In the following sections, we will break down the advantages and disadvantages of the 300 PRC and the 300 Winchester Magnum so you can understand the benefits and limits of each precision rifle cartridge.

Cartridge Specs

When evaluating a precision rifle cartridge, it’s a good idea to analyze the cartridge specs to gain more knowledge of each.

The first thing to notice is that both rifle cartridges have the same base diameter, 0.532”. This means that they both utilize a magnum bolt face. So, if you ever wanted to do a conversion, a simple barrel swap is all that would be required.

The next similarity to notice is the case length and the cartridge capacity, as both the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag are virtually identical in these two categories.

However, the main difference that you’ll note is the massive difference in overall length. The 3.34” overall length for the 300 Win Mag allows it to be loaded in a long action rifle, whereas the 3.7” overall length of the 300 PRC requires a magnum action rifle.

Hornady specifically designed the 300 PRC for the magnum action as they wanted their cartridge to have as long a “head height” as possible. Head height is simply the overall length minus the case length. A longer head height allows for longer, more aerodynamic projectiles with a higher ballistic coefficient (BC) to be used. A high BC is preferred when shooting long range and the 1.12” head height of the 300 PRC allows for this. In contrast, the 300 Win Mag has a head height of 0.72”.

The additional head height for the 300 PRC translates to more room outside the case for longer bullets than the 300 Win Mag can accommodate. Furthermore, the 300 PRC can fire these longer, slender, higher BC bullets without disrupting the powder column inside the cartridge case. In contrast, similar bullets fired in a 300 Win Mag would intrude on the powder column or contact the rifling upon chambering the round.

But does having an unobstructed powder column inside the case really matter? For long range precision shooting, yes it does.

An unobstructed powder column will have an extremely consistent burn, whereas a compressed powder charge or having a bullet seated in the middle of it will change the dynamics of the powder burn. For precision shooters, consistency is the key to accuracy.

With so many variables going into shots over 1,000 yards, shooters need to eliminate as many variables as possible. A consistent powder burn will mean a smooth pressure curve and low standard deviation in muzzle velocity. A compressed powder column or one that is obstructed by a bullet adds new variables into the equation, and inconsistencies can be seen in the point of impact downrange for these loads.

This difference showcases the disparity in design concept between the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag. The 300 PRC was designed form the ground up to be a highly precise and consistent long range shooting cartridge. On the other hand, the 300 Win Mag was designed first as a big game hunting cartridge and was adopted as a long range competitor later in its life.

Although the 300 PRC has clearly been optimized for long range efficiency, those benefits come at the cost of added recoil.

Recoil

Recoil is the energy directed towards the shooter when a cartridge is fired from a firearm. It is dependent on several factors, but firearm weight, powder charge, and bullet weight are three of the primary factors that affect felt recoil.

Many competitive shooters and big game hunters will not be concerned with recoil as any shooter can adapt to it with proper training and a concrete focus on the fundamentals of marksmanship.

However, for most shooters recoil will be a serious issue that they need to consider, as developing recoil anticipation is extremely detrimental to downrange accuracy.

For the purpose of this example, we will consider the Weatherby Vanguard hunting rifle weighting in at 7.5 lbs.

The chosen bullets and loadings will be the 300 Win Mag 200 gr Hornady ELD-X bullet being fired at 2850 FPS and the Hornady Precision Hunter 212-grain ELD-X traveling at 2875 FPS for the 300 PRC. This is about as close to an apples-to-apples comparison for both rifle cartridges. With these parameters, the felt recoil for 300 PRC will be 42 ft-lbs compared to 37 ft-lbs for 300 Win Mag. This translates to about a 13% difference.

The 300 Win Mag is already considered to have rather stout recoil, so this increase is something to consider when looking to add a 300 PRC to your collection. Although we are not in shoulder bruising 338 Lapua territory, neither cartridge is a slouch when it comes to recoil.

Barrel Life

For precision shooters who demand the pinnacle of accuracy and consistency from their rifles, barrel life is something these marksmen will track meticulously. The largest factor that affects barrel life is the powder charge of the ammo being fired.

A higher powder charge will typically reduce barrel life.

Cartridges like the 300 Norma Magnum or the 300 Remington Ultra Magnum are often referred to as “barrel burners” as their 95+ grain powder charges are notorious for being hard on barrels. These heavy powder charges will quickly erode the rifling at the throat of the barrel, reducing downrange accuracy.

Hornady had this in mind when the developed the 300 PRC, as they did not want the cartridge burning out barrels quickly.

The general rule for the 300 Win Mag is that a barrel will maintain peak accuracy for somewhere between 2500 to 2000 rounds.

Barrel life data on the 300 PRC is a more difficult to come by as it is a newer cartridge, however 2000 rounds seem to be the current consensus in the long range shooting community.

Trajectory

Trajectory is how we quantify a bullet’s flight path as it travels downrange measured in inches of bullet drop.

Both the 300 Win Mag and 300 PRC have very flat trajectories, which makes them ideal for long range shooting.

For this example, we will consider shots taken at 1,500 yards with a 195 gr Hornady ELD-M 300 Win Mag and a 225 gr ELD-M for the 300 PRC.

At 1,500 yards, the 300 Win Mag will have experienced -885” of bullet drop while the 300 PRC will have dropped -776”. Clearly the 300 PRC has the flatter trajectory at longer distances.

However, I also wanted to compare the mid-range trajectory as this is more important for hunters. At 600 yards, the 300 Win Mag has dropped -74” while the 300 PRC has dropped -73”. Essentially, they are identical at intermediate ranges.

Accuracy

Usually for caliber comparisons, there is little difference in accuracy between two cartridges. However, the 300 PRC has several advantages over the 300 Win Mag that will help the PRC perform better at long range.

The first benefit is that the 300 PRC is a beltless design whereas the 300 Win Mag has a belted case.

At the time of development, the group think was that a magnum cartridge needed the belt to aid in case rigidity. This has been proven to be a false presumption, however upon chambering in the rifle, headspacing occurs off the belt. This can cause for as much as 0.009” of room for error when pushing the bullet into the chamber.

This might not sound like much, but all that added slop can have the bullet entering the chamber off center. That fraction of a degree may cause the bullet to enter the rifling off axis, and at 1,500 yards can have a massive effect on point of impact.

By comparison, headspacing for the 300 PRC occurs off the 30-degree shoulders Hornady designed for the cartridge. This aids in chamber alignment when the cartridge is loaded into the chamber, meaning that the bullet will be more consistently aligned on axis with the barrel rifling. The 300 PRC also has a longer case neck, which helps hold longer projectiles securely and concentrically, which also aids in consistency and accuracy.

Finally, the 300 PRC was designed with a shorter freebore diameter than the 300 Win Mag. Freebore is the smooth portion of the chamber closes to the cartridge. A tighter freebore space means there is less opportunity for a bullet to yaw when entering the rifling, also increasing consistency and accuracy.

Although the accuracy of a cartridge is most often a reflection of the ability of the shooter and their shooting platform, most long range precision shooters will find that the 300 PRC is more accurate and consistent with ELR shots than the 300 Win Mag.

Ballistic Coefficient

Ballistic coefficient (BC) is a measure of how well a bullet resists wind and air resistance. Put another way, it’s a numeric representation of how aerodynamic a bullet is. A high BC is preferred as this means the bullet will buck the wind easier.

Generally, a heavier bullet will have a higher BC as it takes more force to disrupt the flight of a heavier bullet than a lighter one.

The 300 PRC was specifically designed to fire heavier bullets, so it should come as no surprised that the 300 Win Mag falls behind the 300 PRC in terms BC.

The two primary factory loads for 300 PRC are the 212-grain ELD-X and the 225 gr ELD match, which have a BC of 0.663 and 0.777, respectively.

The 300 Win Mag just cannot compete with the heavier bullets fired by the 300 PRC. The heaviest projectiles the 300 Win Mag can reliably fire would be 200 gr bullets, as the slower twist rate of the barrel cannot stabilize heavier bullets reliably. For example, a 200 gr Berger Hybrid Target will have a BC of 0.64.

The ballistic coefficient for both cartridges is extremely good, but the 300 PRC is just better as it can fire heavier bullets.

Sectional Density

Sectional Density (SD) is the measure of how well a bullet penetrates a target. This is extremely important when hunting big game, as you need a bullet that can punch through thick hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter. The higher the SD the deeper the bullet will penetrate into the target.

As both rifle cartridges fire the same diameter bullet, they will have very similar sectional densities with a very slight advantage towards the 300 PRC as it fires heavier bullets.

Hunting

When hunting, shot placement is always the most important factor between an ethical kill and wounding the animal. Therefore, you might assume that you want the most accurate cartridge possible when hunting.

However, I contest that the 300 Win Mag is the superior option for hunting.

Don’t get me wrong, those 212-grain ELD-X 300 PRC cartridges will do a number on an elk or whitetail. However, at ethical hunting distances (500 yards for most hunters), there is little difference between the 300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC.

However, the one major difference between the two is recoil. Lower recoil will often translate into greater precision and accuracy downrange. Therefore, the 300 Win Mag will be easier to handle at shorter ranges and result in better shot placement.

Furthermore, 300 Win Mag factory ammo is easy to find, cheaper, and comes in more varieties than 300 PRC.

As it is unlikely that a moose or elk will be able to detect any fractional differences in internal ballistics between the two rounds, it’s clear that the 300 Win Mag is the better choice for hunting.

Rifle and Ammo Cost/Availability

This is another category where the 300 Win Mag reigns supreme as it has been on the market for over 50 years.

The 300 Win Mag is considered the gold standard when it comes to hunting big game. Therefore, virtually every firearm manufacturer has a rifle chambered in the cartridge. Entry models are also available such as the Savage Axis or the Ruger American for under $700.

As the 300 PRC is the new kid on the block, there are fewer rifle options available. Rifles from Savage, Bergara, Ruger, Barrett, and other custom manufacturers will start at nothing short of a grand and go up from there. In terms of ammo for 300 PRC, there are fewer varieties available…And they are not cheap! The least expensive PRC ammo I could find ran around $3/round while match ammo ran around $6-7/round.

To complicate matters, there are not many bullet weights available for 300 PRC at this time. The 212 gr ELD-X line from Hornady are the most popular factory loads for hunting while the 225 grain ELD Match is their match-grade round. And that’s about all that’s available at the time of writing!

On the other hand, 300 Win Mag ammo can run as low as $2/round for cheap FMJ practice ammo and about $5/round for the high-quality hunting varieties.

The 300 Win Mag is easier to find in your local firearms shop or hunting outlet store, whereas 300 PRC is a lot less common to see in these stores.

Reloading

Reloading or handloading is the process of recycling fired brass and to be fired again. This not only offers a wide range of ammo customization, but it also reduces your overall cost per round. Reloading is one way to bring the cost per round of 300 PRC back into the realm of practicality. However, the heavier bullets that it fires are not often compatible with other 30-caliber cartridges except for the likes of the 300 Norma Magnum.

In contrast, the lighter bullets fired by the 300 Win Mag can be loaded into 30-06 Springfield, 308 Winchester, and 300 WSM and allows you to purchase in bulk if you reload for these cartridges as well.

Powder selection you’ll want to prioritize slower burning, temperature stable powders such as Retumbo, Reloader 26, Reloader 23, H4831, and H1000.

All major bullet manufacturers like Berger, Barnes, Nosler, and Hornady make 30-caliber bullets that will mate beautiful with both cartridges.

300 Win Mag Ballistics

A Brief History of 300 PRC

The Hornady 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (PRC) was specifically designed with long range precision shooting in mind. Hornady developed the cartridge to fire long, aerodynamic, and high BC 30-caliber bullets to be everything long range shooters want but haven’t heard about yet.

The 300 PRC began when the ballisticians at Hornady wanted to bridge the gap between the 300 Winchester Magnum and 338 Lapua Magnum for extreme long range (ELR) shooters who wanted to air it out past 1,500 yards but not have to endure the shoulder punishing recoil of the 338.

Other cartridges had attempted this but fell slightly short of the mark, namely the 30 Nosler and 300 Norma Magnum. Barrel life for these cartridges is painfully short, and Hornady wanted to provide shooters with a cartridge that could fire 200+ grain 0.308” diameter bullet while maintaining an acceptable lifespan of the barrel.

Using the 375 Ruger as a parent case, Hornady necked down the cartridge to accept a 30-caliber bullet and set the shoulder angle at 30 degrees, and thusly the 300 PRC was born.

Hornady specifically built the 300 PRC to be a magnum cartridge and did not constrain themselves by using a long action like what happened with the 300 Winchester Magnum.

Instead, they build the rifle around the cartridge, and what they got was an extremely accurate long range cartridge that can easily compete with the 338 Lapua in terms of trajectory.

The 300 PRC embodies everything amazing about the 6.5 Creedmoor and adapts it to 30 caliber. Hornady rolled out their new cartridge at 2019 SHOT Show and received SAAMI approval in August of 2018.

The initial design for the 300 PRC fires a 212 gr bullet at 2860 fps and 3850 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. Hornady also offers factory loads with 220, 225, and 250 grain bullets.

Although the 300 PRC is still somewhat of an obscure chambering, it is quickly becoming more popular in the long range competition circuit and is also garnering some attention from US SOCOM for military application.

A Brief History of 300 Win Mag

In 1963, Winchester introduced the 300 Win Mag in its long-action Winchester Model 70 bolt action rifle.

Remington quickly followed suit, introducing a 300 Win Mag offering in its popular Rem 700 bolt action rife. Since then, the 300 Winchester Magnum has quickly become one of the most successful magnum rifle cartridges on the market today.

The 300 Winchester Magnum was developed from the belted 375 H&H Magnum cartridge and sports a whopping case capacity of 91.5 gr of water and a max pressure of 64,000 psi based on SAAMI specifications.

This voluminous case capacity allows the 300 Win Mag to pack in the powder and push the .308” diameter bullet to its limits.

At the muzzle, a 150-grain bullet is screaming down range at about 3300 fps with a back-breaking 3600 ft-lbs of energy. That is some serious power! Standard loadings for the 300 Win Mag range between bullet weights of 150 and 220 gr.

Many shooters believe that the belted case is required to contain the “case-splitting” pressure that the 300 Win Mag must exude. However, this is a common misconception.

Based on the case design, the belted cartridge is superfluous. However, Winchester retained the designed as a marketing strategy to link the cartridge to its heavy hitting predecessor, the 375 H&H Magnum.

The strategy was wildly successful as the 300 Winchester Magnum has become one of the most popular magnum cartridges on the market, surpassing the 300 WSM, 7mm Rem Mag, and 270 Weatherby Magnum.

Final Shots: 300 Win Mag vs 300 PRC

The ballisticians at Hornady did an exceptional job designing the 300 PRC, focusing on optimizing the cartridge design and then building the rifle around it. Although many have criticized the 300 PRC for being another boutique cartridge that offers only marginal improvements over current designs, US SOCOM seems to disagree with their purchase of an unknown quantity of Barrett MRAD rifles in 300 PRC.

It’s hard to say if the 300 PRC will gain mainstream acceptance and adoption by other ammo and rifle manufacturers, however Hornady has changed many perspectives in the past like they did with the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The benefits that the 300 PRC offers cannot be ignored, as it is truly a precision rifle cartridge in every sense of the word.

The 300 Winchester Magnum is big game hunting mainstay and has taken every animal on North America. It is powerful, accurate, and has a trajectory that military snipers, sportsmen, and target shooters have grown to love.

However, the 300 Win Mag cannot accommodate heaver .308” bullets with higher ballistic coefficients like the 300 PRC was designed for. The 300 Win Mag also has less recoil than the 300 PRC, which can make a difference if follow-up shots are needed.

For most shooters, the 300 Win Mag will be more than enough to handle all their shooting needs. However, for long range F-Class and T-Class competitions, the 300 PRC is clearly the ideal choice.

As the 300 PRC and 300 Win Mag have almost identical ballistic properties at hunting ranges, there is not a compelling argument for using the more expensive 300 PRC at these ranges when the 300 Win Mag can do the same thing at lower cost and recoil.

But if you just love the idea of having the most accurized 30-caliber magnum cartridge out there, then go get yourself a 300 PRC and enjoy that sub-MOA accuracy that the cartridge offers!

I want to preface what I’m about to say by making one thing clear…I love all firearms.

Big ones, small ones, common, rare, old, new, whatever — if it goes bang, it has a place in my heart.

But the mostspecial place in my heart will always be held by the majesty that is the “battle rifle” — which usually means a semi-automatic chambered in .308 Winchester/7.62×51 NATO.

Why .308?

I’ve talked before about how much I love the .308 cartridge and how perfect it is for my needs and those of most shooters and hunters.

It’s good out to 800-yards, no sweat, and with quality match ammo, it will probably be more accurate than most shooters.

So while I love things like the 6.5 Creedmoor and .224 Valkyrie, I can’t get away from good ol’ .308.

If you are a fan of .308 and on the hunt for a new battle rifle, you might have noticed there are a few options on the market. So which is best?

I’m going to walk you through some of the Pew Pew Tactical team’s favorite battle rifles. We’ll examine some pros of each and discuss what makes them worthy of your attention.

So without further ado…let’s dive in.

THE QUICK LIST

Best .308/7.62 Semi-Auto Rifles

1. AR-10

When the words “.308” and “semi-auto” are uttered in the same breath, most people’s minds probably go to the AR-10.

The AR-10 is the starting point not only for most modern battle rifles but for most Western semi-auto rifles in general.

It would go on to spawn the AR-15 and all of its variants, making it the progenitor of arguably the most popular firearm family in the world.

You can read more about the history of these rifles in our AR-10 vs. AR-15 article.

Originally developed by Eugene Stoner to replace the aging M1 Garand for the U.S. military, the AR-10 has had a long and successful life.

In that time, it has remained in use globally, though these days mostly in specialized circumstances or in the hands of civilians.

That said, it’s still an incredibly robust platform, and modern refinements have only made it better.

Aero Precision M5E1

The Aero M5E1 is the gold standard for people that want a customizable AR-10 without breaking the bank — though you’ll have to piece it together yourself.

Coming in somewhere between $1,200 and $2,000 depending on options, the M5E1 is an excellent choice for those who want a solid rifle that can be made great with a few small upgrades.

You can read our full review here.

Palmetto State Armory PA10

PSA is a budget firearms enthusiast’s dream come true. I’m not sure exactly how they do it, but they have everything from ammo to AR-10s at rock-bottom prices.

Best of all, their PSA-branded uppers, lowers, and complete rifles are all very cheap compared to the competition. Their fit and finish are nothing to drool over, but they go bang every time, and they’re more accurate than the price would lead you to believe.

If you’re looking for an entry model AR-10 or semi-auto .308 in general, the PA-10 from PSA is available in multiple configurations. They start at about $700 and top out at around $1100.

You can check out our reviews of the .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor versions and peep our video review of the .308 version below.

Other AR-10 Info

Simply put, the AR-10 is the king of battle rifles. They are inherently accurate, reliable, and modular. Aside from the models we listed, there are plenty of great options out there Sig 716I and higher-end options like LMT MARS-H and POF Revolution.

Be sure to check out our AR-10 vs. AR-15 and 8Best AR-10s articles if you would like to know more.

2. PTR-91

The PTR-91 is a modern variant of a gun first manufactured over half a century ago, the Heckler and Koch G3 — one of the most revered battle rifles ever produced.

What would go on to become the H&K G3 was first produced in 1958. Primarily designed by German engineers working for the Spanish CETME development group, the CETME-C was a roller-delayed 7.62×51 rifle.

This legendary rifle would go on to inspire a number of similar rifles (and quite a few blatant copies) and be used by just about every country with a military.

The PTR 91 is an American-made G3 clone that uses tooling references from the original H&K G3 to be as accurate as possible to that original design, but with all the advancements and improvements of a modern manufacturing complex.

It also features the iconic H&K diopter sights (the little rotating drum you probably recognize most from the MP5) and a standard 5/28 threaded barrel making it ready for suppressors out of the box.

A nice bonus about these guns is the widespread availability of dirt-cheap magazines. You can find surplus magazines for $5 to $10, and new magazines can be had for as little as $10 to $15.

This is a battle rifle. It’s got a stamped and welded receiver just like an AK, and the trigger does double duty as a medieval torture device. Beware, these things absolutely chew up brass; so if you are planning on reloading, this gun will literally put a dent in your plans.

I’d be comfortable calling the base model a 2 MOA gun with mid-range ammo. Stepping up to their FR model with the match-grade bull barrel is an option for those looking to squeeze a bit more accuracy out of the platform.

There are several variations of the PTR-91, but they typically run from about $1,000 to $1,400.

For a battle rifle that’ll handle anything, it’s certainly not bad at all, and I’d feel good about having one to rely on in anything from a home invasion to an alien invasion.

3. DS Arms SA58 FAL

FN Herstal developed the Fusil Automatique Léger (Light Automatic Rifle) in the 1940s and saw it completed in 1953. During the Cold War, many NATO countries adopted it as their primary battle rifle, where it earned its nickname “the right arm of the free world.”

It uses a fantastic short-stroke, spring-assisted piston action that was very modern at the time. The system is still relevant today, allowing the FAL to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with much newer firearms.

The FAL is one of the most battle-tested rifles on the planet, and usually, the trigger is considerably better than most of the G3 options out there, which may lead to better practical accuracy.

I love the FAL, and it’s one of those guns I think anyone looking to build a serious gun collection should have. For me, it sits slightly above the AK and slightly below the AR-10/15 in the pantheon of shoulderable small arms.

Of course, if you want one, you’ll have to talk to an importer and get a civilian one. For that, I recommend DSA SA58 lineup. DS Arms is one of few companies producing parts and accessories for the FAL, including complete rifles.

The SA58 is a solid recreation of the FAL that holds its own against the other non-AR .308s we’ve talked about in the accuracy department. Although modern versions of these guns tend to be pricier, hovering between $1,500 to $2,500, they are fun and steeped in rich history.

Check out our review of one of DSA’s modernized FAL variants here.

4. Springfield Armory M1A

Next up is the Springfield M1A. This is the civilian version of the iconic M14 — the rifle that trounced the AR-10 and FN FAL to become the U.S. Army’s primary battle rifle back in 1959 (however arguable those test results may be).

The M14 is, of course, a fully automatic military rifle, but the Springfield M1A is a semi-automatic, civilian version sold by Springfield Armory in various configurations.

You can get everything from the short-barreled SOCOM version to 21-inch barreled sniper configurations designed to get as much accuracy as possible out of the gun.

Some would say that M1A isn’t a great rifle, but I would disagree. Much of the accuracy of these guns is derived from a quality barrel and the mating of the action to the stock. This means that repeated detail strips of the gun can affect accuracy, especially on the base models.

Stepping up to the Loaded model that comes with the national match barrel is a good step in the right direction if you want those tighter groups. Fiberglass bedding between the action and stock will really let show you what a properly set up M1A can do accuracy-wise.

I own one in 6.5 Creedmoor, and I couldn’t be happier, but holy moly, do I want a .308 version. I just can’t quite justify the price for a second one, given that they run anywhere from $1,299 to $2,700, depending on trim level.

These rifles are a frequent sight on the field of competition, especially in service-rifle competitions. With classic ergonomics and excellent iron sights, the M1A lends itself well to shooting without optics.

The M14 is still used in a mostly honorary capacity by the U.S. military, with one or two exceptions — an especially notable one being its use by a number of competitive rifle teams from various branches.

While it may not be the best combat rifle or the cheapest battle rifle option these days, what it lacks, it makes up for in pure soul and fun. And if you aren’t sure which model is right for you, check out our ultimate guide to the best M1A models.

5. IWI Galil ACE Gen 2

Here comes the dark horse in the competition — the Galil ACE Gen 2 in 7.62×51 NATO. The first-generation Galil ACE was launched in 2008 but hasn’t been featured as heavily in the U.S. market, or video games for that matter, which kept it off many people’s radar.

So what is it, you ask? In a nutshell, the Galil ACE is the ultimate refinement of the AK-47 platform. It uses the same long-stroke piston and rotating bolt design as the Kalashnikov and even sports a similar pop-off dust cover.

What does all that mean? It means you get the robust and proven durability of the AK platform, combined with the hearty build quality that IWI is known for. Sprinkle in a version chambered for 7.62 NATO, and you have a hell of a battle rifle.

IWI recently introduced the Gen 2 version of the ACE. Updates include an M-LOK handguard, AR-style buffer tube for use with your favorite stocks, improved 2-stage trigger, and improved ergonomics.

By virtue of using a long-stroke piston, the ACE is able to have a folding stock and fire when folded. It also sports a non-reciprocating charging handle on the left side. Additionally, its cold hammer forged barrel ensures good accuracy and long service life.

Although a bit heavier than the SCAR-17S or the average AR-10, the ACE is still manageable at 8.6 pounds. The ACE also benefits from using standard SR-25/AR-10 magazines.

These rifles are a bit pricier, around $1,700 to $2,000, but are far from the most expensive on this list. If you are looking for something modern that isn’t an AR-10, the ACE might be your ticket.

Want to know more about the platform? Check out our full review of the 7.62×39 Galil ACE or watch Johnny B’s video below.

6. FN SCAR-17S

We’ve already given a spot on this list to the FN FAL, but I’d be remiss if I left out one of the most popular modern .308 battle rifles around.

The FN SCAR-H is a 7.62x51mm monster of a gun designed to be as modular as possible and to serve a variety of uses. From being a CQB weapon for various door-kickers and SF units to a scout sniper and sniper support platform, the SCAR-H can do it all.

A SCAR-H is a fully-automatic battle rifle capable of laying down 600 rounds a minute while also reaching out to the utmost limits of what the .308 cartridge is capable of.

Meanwhile, the SCAR-17S is the civilian version that goes bang as fast as your trigger finger can manage to go back and forth, and that’s plenty fast enough for me.

This is as solid of a rifle as you can get. The civilian version ships with a 16.5-inch barrel, but you can swap them out by removing just a few screws, allowing you to slot in any number of aftermarket barrels, from 13 to 20 inches, depending on your needs.

It uses a modern version of the short-stroke piston FN developed for the FAL, and it is currently in service in 24 countries around the world in one capacity or another.

For the civilian shooter like you and me, we get something that’s as military-tested as any rifle can be and is as close to military spec (aside from the lack of select-fire capability) as we can get.

The trigger is…not perfect, but certainly better than the FAL. The good news is that there are a considerable amount of aftermarket trigger options. If you’re going to slap a 20-inch barrel on there and stretch the SCAR out to 800 yards or more, you might consider swapping the trigger out.

All in all, it’s one of the best modern battle rifles out there and is pretty perfect if you’re looking for a heavy-duty semi-auto. The price is steep, but hey, you are getting a modern military-grade firearm, and that doesn’t always come cheap.

Be sure to check out our review of the SCAR-17S or watch the full video review below and let us know your take.

Final Thoughts

That was a look at some of the awesome semi-automatic .308 battle rifles out there. I certainly enjoyed writing it, and I hope some of this was helpful. If you haven’t found your next purchase, then hopefully, you at least learned something interesting.

What do you think of these rifles? Which one is your favorite? Thinking about getting one? Be sure to check out what to feed these beasts with our article on the Best .308 Ammo for Target Shooting, Plinking, & Hunting.

Best Crappie Baits

Widely abundant across the United States, crappies are one of the most popular fish targeted by many anglers. They can be found in large schools, are relatively easy to catch, and make fantastic table fare. There are a countless number of different baits you can use to catch crappies, but the following list includes the best and most universal lures for targeting this America’s favorite panfish.

Hair Jigs

Hair jigs are one of the best crappie baits out there available for anglers. They continually produced numbers of big crappies all across the country. One benefit to using hair jigs is their effectiveness without having to use live bait. In fact, hair jigs give off more action and will produce more fish when they are not teamed with live bait. Marabou, synthetic, and bucktail hair jigs are all valuable tools to have in your arsenal because they mimic different types of bait and that can be crucial depending on the time of year.

VMC Dominator Marabou Hair Jig

During spring and early summer when crappies are keying in on bugs and other aquatic invertebrates, marabou hair jigs are top producers. Marabou jigs like the VMC Dominator marabou jig in a 1/16-ounce are deadly baits for big crappies, especially during bug hatches. They do a fantastic job imitating invertebrates and other forage that big crappies feed on throughout the spring and summer months. Available in black, white, and brown color options the VMC Dominator marabou jig works in all types of fishing environments for big crappies.

Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special

Designed by longtime fishing legend Al Lindner and the Angling Edge Team, the new Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special is locked and loaded for battle with big slab crappies. This panfish jig features a solid soft plastic body with a feathered tail that ebbs and flows with the slightest rod twitches or water currents. Outfitted with a #2 hook and dressed in the best crappie and panfish colors hand-selected by Al Lindner and the Angling Edge crew, the Big Bite Baits Lindner Panfish Special deserves a home in any crappie angler’s tacklebox.

Northland Gypsi Jig

The Northland Gypsi jig has been a staple for panfish anglers for years and for good reason. Available in a variety of bright, fish-attracting colors its simple yet sleek design tantalizes big slabs into biting. The Gypsi jig can be fish as is, but also works great paired with livebait. This synthetic hair jig gives off a ton a flash and attracts in big crappies from a distance and is available in three sizes 1/64-ounce, 1/32-ounce and 1/16-ounce. The Northland Gypsi jig is a must have for those serious crappie anglers.

Plastics

Today’s crappie plastics come in just about every shape, color, and size imaginable. Plastic also do a fantastic job triggering strikes without the aid of livebait and one of the many benefits of using plastics is their versatility and effectiveness in all different types of fishing scenarios. They’ll catch crappies in shallow, dirty water swamps and are just as effective in deep, clear water lakes. They can be fished in weeds, wood, under docks and any other place else crappies harbor. There is a shape and color for every situation a crappie angler could imagine. The following plastics are the best options out there for crappie anglers.

Lit’l Hustler Tube

The crappie tube is arguably to most used plastic in the country. Its simple design has probably accounted for more crappie catches than any other bait out there. They can be bought in just about every color pattern imaginable, but the classic red body with white legs has been a staple for many crappie anglers. Whether you’re shooting docks on reservoirs in the midwest, spider rigging multiple lines for giants in the deep south, or using forward-facing sonar to cast towards and pick off individual fish suspended over brush the crappie tube is the perfect bait for the job.

Jenko Big T Curly Fry

Tied for first in popularity with the tube, the curly-tailed grub is one of the best crappie baits out on the market. This style of plastic has been a staple for anglers for decades. Similar to the tube, the curly-tailed grub can be found in just about every color imaginable and its tantalizing action is a killer for big crappies.

Big Bite Baits 2″ Crappie Minnr

The Big Bite Baits 2″ Crappie Minnr is a small soft plastic that perfectly imitates a variety of miniature baitfish and minnow species that crappies prey upon year-round! When paired with a small crappie jighead, the Big Bite Baits Crappie Minnr makes a delectable offering that is great for dock shooting, casting at individual or schools of fish with forward-facing sonar and more! Available in a wide variety of colors, this is the perfect plastic for targeting the biggest fish in a school!

Puddle Jumper

One of the best crappie baits for springtime slabs, the Puddle Jumper is a staple for many northern anglers. This plastic gives off a ton of action in the water mimicking invertebrates and other forage crappies feed on. Its unique winged body allows the bait to glide when falling and the tails provide action when suspended above fish. Available in a wide variety of colors the Puddle Jumper is a great option for big crappies.

Hardbaits

They are a couple of hardbaits that make this list because they truly deserve to be in the conversation as one of the best crappie baits. Although they are limited seasonally, both have a time and place and deserve a spot in your tackle box.

Rapala #4 X-Rap

When the conditions are right the #4 Rapala X-Rap is one of the best crappie baits out there. This bait truly shines during the springtime when crappies are moving up shallow in order to spawn. This jerkbait can be fished both in an aggressive “slashbait” technique or with a classic straight retrieve, but ultimately, the angler defines the cadence for maximum effectiveness in any given scenario. Measuring 1 1/2 inches long and available in ultra-realistic baitfish patterns it’s the perfect bait for big crappies!

Northland Puppet Minnow 1/8 Ounce

Designed originally for ice fishing the Northland Puppet Minnow has proven itself in open-water scenarios. This bait shines in deep water situations when it’s fished vertically, particularly in fall. The Northland Puppet Minnow mimics small baitfish and is available in a wide variety of natural and UV colors. It’s darting, erratic action is irresistible for big crappies!

Heath Wood

As a young teenager, I recall five childhood buddies, along with myself, gathering at a family farm for a night of gigging frogs. Being the young boys we were, we decided to cook dinner on one of the banks of the many ponds spread throughout the farm. For a solid hour, my buddies and I waded the pond banks mud, trying to get enough frogs to prepare a feast for our dinner. After we met our required amount of frogs and spent another hour cleaning them, we finally had the fire going and fresh frog legs sizzling in the hot oil of a cast iron skillet. Not only did our young and rebellious group of friends cook dinner, but we also decided to sleep out underneath the stars on that warm summer night.

I traded in my frog gig for a bow and arrow in my mid-twenties, as competitive bow shooting with my friends was my peak interest. However, that night of gigging frogs many summers ago sparked a lifelong passion for spending summer nights in quest of bullfrogs and green frogs that always ends in delicious fried frog legs.

Bow Hunting Frog Equipment

The first time I ever shot at a summer bullfrog with a bow was in my early twenties with a compound bow and a few old aluminum arrows that I didn’t care if I lost. After a few misses, well, several misses, I successfully shot frogs from ten to fifteen yards at a consistent rate.

Today, I have upgraded the quality of my equipment yet have kept the traditional archery values by using the Cajun Bowfishing Fish Stick Recurve Fishing Bow.

The Cajun Fish Stick bow was designed to use while bowfishing for larger fish such as carp or suckers. However, the design of shooting an arrow with an attached line is perfect for bow hunting summer bullfrogs as well. Hunting frogs with a good friend a few years back, I watched as he showed off his archery skills by using a homemade recurve bow to shoot giant bullfrogs from his farm ponds. After watching his skills, I made it a personal goal to use a recurve bow on my next frog hunting outing.

When hunting bullfrogs on a warm summer night, a quality light is vital to find frogs yet prevent them from seeing you. I prefer the Optical Dynamics OD40 light to help locate frogs before making the shot. When hunting with a recurve bow, it is best to have a partner use the light due to the lack of time to shoot before the frog jumps into the water. Only having a few seconds to shoot is why the Cajun Fish Stick recurve bow is ideal for bowhunting frogs.

Another vital piece of equipment to successfully bow hunt frogs is a user-friendly arrow rest such as the TruGlo EZ-Rest Bowfishing Arrow Rest. The EZ-Rest features a full-containment design to hold the arrow in place no matter the bow’s angle. An arrow rest that keeps the arrow in place is a game changer. Again, the shooter has seconds to draw, aim, and shoot when a frog is located. The quicker the shot, the more frogs, will be taken.

How To Hunt Frogs

Frogs are most active during the summer months of June, July, and August. Being mostly night-active is why most frog hunters began hunting during late evenings, after dark, or throughout the night hours. A few minutes before the last light and after dark are the ideal times for frogs to be on the move. In my home state of Missouri, the frog season begins June 30th and runs through the end of October. Check your local regulations for season dates and guidelines.

The American Bullfrog and the Green Frog are the two most common frogs hunted during the summer and can best be found around farm ponds. When hunting frogs, the hunter must creep around the edges of the pond banks, scanning with a bright direct-beam light to locate frogs. When a frog is located, the light must be kept directly in its eyes to prevent it from spooking and jumping in the water.

After a frog has been spotted, the hunter and whoever is helping shine the light creep until they reach a comfortable shooting range. When using my Cajun Fish Stick recurve bow, I prefer to be ten to twelve yards if possible before stopping. Once we stop within range, I quietly get drawn, aim, and shoot as quickly as possible. Once a frog has been hit, I reel the line attached to the arrow while reeling the frog simultaneously. The daily bag limit for frogs in my home state is eight, so we try to hunt until our limit has been reached, then go directly into cleaning and processing until all the legs have been removed. The legs can then be cooked the same evening or frozen and cooked later.

Creating fond memories and carrying on traditions are both hallmarks of life that many hold near and dear to their heart. Even though times change and technologies advance, there is always a bit of tradition found if one looks hard enough. As with new and improved recurve bows, they may be perfected upon, yet a tradition of use goes back many decades. The same goes for frog hunting, this sport is not a new idea, yet it is enjoyable and addictive once you have tried it.